Arches National Park in south-eastern Utah is a dramatic high-desert landscape sheltering more than 2000 natural sandstone arches shaped over millennia by erosion wind and water offering visitors world-class hiking photography and stargazing beneath some of America's most spectacular red rock scenery.
Utah: Hole ‘N’ The Rock
🪨 Hole ‘N’ The Rock, Moab, Utah
A few miles south of Moab sits one of the more gloriously eccentric things we stumbled across on this entire trip. The Hole ‘N’ The Rock — not exactly a name that required a marketing genius — is the life’s work of one Albert Christensen, a man who looked at a solid sandstone cliff and thought, “that’ll do nicely.” The Christensen family had settled in the area in the early twentieth century, running an 80-acre homestead straddling the road between Moab and Monticello. Albert and his brother Leo initially carved a modest cave into the cliff face as a rough shelter for cowboys passing through on cattle drives — which, frankly, sounds perfectly reasonable. Then, in 1940, Albert apparently decided modest wasn’t really his style.
What followed was twelve years of drilling, blasting, and hauling rock — by hand, largely — until the family had themselves a 5,000 square foot, 14-room home carved entirely into the sandstone cliff, sitting comfortably beneath several million tonnes of rock. The rooms are supported by enormous natural stone pillars, the walls are lined with carved shelves and cubbies, and there’s a fireplace with a chimney drilled 65 feet straight up through the rock above. There’s even a bathtub hewn directly from the stone, which suggests Albert had both ambition and a healthy respect for personal hygiene. Every room retains its original 1940s and 50s furnishings, giving the whole place the feeling of walking into a time capsule — if time capsules were buried inside an actual mountain.
Albert also fancied himself a taxidermist. He was not good. The evidence is distributed generously throughout the home, including one deeply unsettling pony that looked as though it had experienced considerable confusion during the process. Albert and Leo opened a diner next door in 1945, which ran until 1955 when Albert suffered a heart attack, dying two years later in 1957. He was buried in a small alcove just below the house — which is either wonderfully romantic or slightly odd, depending on your outlook. His wife Gladys, who had the now-famous lettering painted across the cliff face above the entrance, kept things going, running tours and a small shop until her own death in 1974, when she was buried alongside Albert. The property was later acquired by the Hansen family, who added gift shops and a petting zoo, because apparently even a house carved into a cliff needs a goat.
Tours of the interior are still very much worth doing — it’s genuinely fascinating. Do note, however, that photography inside the house is not permitted. The interior photographs below were borrowed with gratitude from the Hole ‘N’ The Rock website.
Planning a Visit to Hole ‘N’ The Rock
🪨 Hole ‘N’ The Rock
| 📍 Location | 11037 US-191, Moab, Utah 84532 (15.3 miles south of Moab on US Highway 191) | 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (hours vary by season — call ahead to confirm) |
| 🌐 Website | theholeintherock.com | 📞 Phone | (435) 686-2250 |
🚗 Getting There
| ✈️ Closest Airport | Canyonlands Regional Airport (CNY), Moab — approx. 35 miles north via US-191 | 🚗 From Salt Lake City | Approx. 4 hours south via I-15 and US-191 |
| 🚗 From Grand Junction, CO | Approx. 1.5–2 hours west via I-70 and US-191 | 🚗 From Denver, CO | Approx. 5 hours via I-70 west and US-191 south |
| 🚌 Shuttle | Moab Express shuttle available from CNY, SLC, and Grand Junction — reservations required | 🅿️ Parking | Free on-site parking available |
ℹ️ A hire car is strongly recommended — there is no public bus service along US-191 to the attraction. The site is directly on the highway and clearly visible; look for the large white letters painted on the rockface.
🎟️ Entry Fees
| House Tour — Adults | House Tour — Children (5–10) | Under 5s | Petting Zoo | Under 2s (Zoo) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| $6.00 | $3.50 | Free | $4.25 | Free |
ℹ️ Tickets are purchased on-site only; advance booking is not available. Group rates available — call ahead.
Best Time to Visit Utah
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Spring is widely considered one of the finest times to explore Utah’s southern national parks. Temperatures are mild and pleasant, wildflowers begin to bloom across the desert plateaus, and the tourist crowds that descend in summer have yet to arrive in full force. Zion and Bryce Canyon are at their most accessible and inviting, with trails drying out after winter snowmelt and the landscape flushed with fresh colour.
March can still bring cold nights and lingering snow at higher elevations, particularly in Bryce Canyon, which sits above 2,400 metres. By April, conditions across most of the state are ideal for hiking, cycling, and photography. May is the sweet spot — warm days, cool evenings, manageable visitor numbers — though it does mark the beginning of the busier season, so booking accommodation in advance is advisable.
The Virgin River in Zion runs fast and murky with snowmelt through spring, which means the famous Narrows slot canyon hike may be restricted or closed. Always check conditions before setting out.
What to pack: Layering is essential — a lightweight down jacket, a waterproof shell, and moisture-wicking base layers cover the temperature swings. Comfortable hiking boots with ankle support, UV-protective sunglasses, a wide-brimmed hat, high-SPF suncream, and a reusable water bottle. Trekking poles are useful on muddy or uneven trails. Pack a light fleece for cool evenings and a small day pack for hiking.
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Summer brings the most visitors to Utah, and for good reason — long daylight hours, dry skies, and lively park atmospheres make it a popular choice for families and those seeking maximum outdoor time. However, it also brings intense heat, particularly in the lower desert parks. Arches and Canyonlands regularly exceed 38°C in July and August, making midday hiking genuinely dangerous. The sensible approach is to hike at dawn, retreat to shade or air-conditioned accommodation during peak afternoon heat, and venture out again in the early evening.
Bryce Canyon and Cedar Breaks, sitting at higher elevations, offer welcome relief from the heat and are excellent summer destinations. Southern Utah’s monsoon season typically begins in mid-July, bringing dramatic afternoon thunderstorms that can cause flash flooding in narrow slot canyons — always check weather forecasts before entering confined trails like The Narrows or Antelope Canyon.
For those willing to escape the crowds, northern Utah’s Uinta Mountains offer superb summer hiking and camping at elevation, with cooler temperatures and fewer visitors than the national parks.
What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing in light colours, a sun hat and UV-protective sunglasses, a high-SPF suncream (SPF 50+), a hydration pack or multiple large water bottles, electrolyte tablets, and a headlamp for early starts. A light waterproof layer for afternoon monsoon storms, quick-dry fabrics, and sandals for camp. Insect repellent is useful for forested areas. Book campsites and accommodation months in advance.
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Autumn rivals spring as the best overall season to visit Utah. The crushing summer heat begins to ease by September, crowds thin considerably after the American Labour Day holiday in early September, and the landscape transforms with spectacular warm tones. Cottonwood trees along canyon floors turn gold, scrub oak flushes red and orange, and the clear blue skies of September and October provide perfect conditions for photography.
October is many experienced visitors’ preferred month — daytime temperatures hover around a comfortable 15–22°C in most parks, the light is rich and golden, and the national parks feel spacious and unhurried once again. Higher elevation areas such as the Wasatch Front and the Uintas begin to see snow from October onwards, marking the start of the ski season build-up. November brings cooler temperatures and the possibility of early snowfall at elevation, which can be beautiful but requires additional preparation.
The Zion Narrows, often inaccessible in spring due to high water levels, is typically at its finest in late summer and early autumn when flows are low and temperatures are manageable.
What to pack: Versatile layering including a mid-weight fleece, a windproof and waterproof outer jacket, and light base layers. Sturdy hiking boots, warm socks, and a woolly hat and gloves for higher elevations. Sunglasses and suncream remain essential even in autumn. A small tripod is worth carrying for golden-hour photography. Neoprene socks and a walking pole if attempting The Narrows, and waterproof trousers for wet canyon hikes.
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Winter in Utah is a tale of two experiences. For skiers and snowboarders, it is nothing short of exceptional. The Wasatch Range near Salt Lake City — home to resorts including Park City, Alta, Snowbird, Deer Valley, and Solitude — regularly receives some of the deepest, lightest powder snow in the world. Utah’s ski season typically runs from November through April, with peak conditions in January and February.
The national parks take on an entirely different and deeply beautiful character in winter. Bryce Canyon’s pink and orange hoodoos dusted with snow are among the most photographed sights in the American West. Crowds are minimal, accommodation prices drop significantly, and the silence of the desert in winter is profound. However, many trails become icy and require microspikes or snowshoes, and some park roads close seasonally.
Temperatures at night in the southern parks can drop to -10°C or below, and roads to higher viewpoints may be closed. Despite these challenges, winter offers a genuinely magical and uncrowded way to experience Utah for those prepared for cold conditions.
What to pack: For skiing: thermal base layers, ski-specific mid-layers, a waterproof and insulated ski jacket and trousers, ski socks, goggles, a helmet, and neck gaiter. For national park visits: a heavy insulated jacket, waterproof trousers, thermal underlayers, sturdy waterproof boots, warm hat, gloves and scarf, microspikes or snowshoes, hand warmers, and a thermos. Suncream is still necessary as UV reflection off snow is intense.
🏆 The Overall Best Time to Visit
If you are planning your first — or only — trip to Utah and want the ideal balance of weather, trail access, scenery, and manageable crowds, late September to mid-October stands out as the single finest window. The summer heat has passed, the monsoon storms have largely subsided, and the autumn colours add warmth and drama to landscapes that are already extraordinary. Most trails are fully open, temperatures are comfortable from morning to evening, and the parks feel genuinely peaceful compared to the height of summer. Spring — particularly April and early May — runs a very close second, offering similar conditions alongside the freshness of wildflowers and snowmelt-fed waterfalls. Whichever season draws you, Utah rewards the prepared traveller with scenery that is, quite simply, unlike anywhere else on earth.
Other places close by worth visiting
1. Arches National Park
Arches National Park sits in the high desert of eastern Utah, USA, and is home to over 2,000 natural sandstone arches — more than anywhere else on earth. The landscape is stark and dry, shaped by millions of years of erosion, freezing and thawing, and the slow movement of salt beneath the ground. The rock glows red and orange in the sun, and the arches themselves range from small openings you might barely notice to massive spans like Delicate Arch, which stands 20 metres tall and has become something of a symbol for the state of Utah. The park sits at around 1,200 to 1,700 metres above sea level, which means summers are hot but not unbearable, and winters bring occasional snow that settles briefly on the warm-coloured stone. Walking trails vary from short, easy paths to longer routes over uneven slickrock. It is a popular destination, particularly in spring and autumn, and visitor numbers have grown significantly in recent years, so the park now requires timed entry permits during busy periods. It is a straightforward but genuinely striking place — the sort of landscape that is hard to picture until you are standing in it.
2. Capitol Reef
Tucked away in the south-central part of Utah, Capitol Reef is one of America’s lesser-visited national parks, though it has plenty to offer anyone who makes the trip. At its heart is the Waterpocket Fold, a nearly 160-kilometre wrinkle in the earth’s crust where layers of colourful sandstone have been pushed up and eroded over millions of years into cliffs, canyons, and domes. The park gets its name from the white sandstone domes that early travellers thought looked like the Capitol building in Washington, while “reef” was a term used for rocky ridges that made travel difficult. There’s a stretch of the park along Highway 24 that’s free to drive through, and a scenic road leads into the Fruita area, where you’ll find a small historic orchard planted by Mormon settlers in the late 1800s — visitors can actually pick fruit from the trees when they’re in season. The hiking ranges from short, easy walks to demanding backcountry routes, and the remoteness of the place means the night skies are genuinely dark and full of stars. It’s a quieter, more unhurried experience than some of Utah’s better-known parks, which for many people is precisely the appeal.
3. Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands is a vast stretch of rugged desert landscape in south-eastern Utah, carved over millions of years by the Colorado and Green rivers. The park covers around 1,370 square kilometres and is divided into four districts — Island in the Sky, The Needles, The Maze, and the river corridors — each with its own character and level of accessibility. The terrain is dramatic, made up of deep canyons, flat-topped mesas, and weathered rock formations in shades of red, orange, and brown. It is a genuinely remote place; roads are limited, mobile signal is sparse, and some areas require a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle or several days on foot to reach. The weather can be extreme, with fierce summer heat and cold winters, so most visitors tend to come in spring or autumn. Wildlife includes coyotes, ravens, lizards, and the occasional desert bighorn sheep. There are no large towns nearby, and facilities within the park are minimal, so visitors are expected to come well prepared with food, water, and a clear plan. It is not a particularly comfortable place to explore, but for those who are drawn to open, unspoilt landscapes, it has a quiet and lasting appeal.
4. Zion National Park
covers around 230 square miles of canyon country. The park’s most striking feature is Zion Canyon, a narrow gorge carved over millions of years by the Virgin River, with sandstone walls that rise up to 800 metres in places. The rock shifts between deep reds, oranges, and creams depending on the light and time of day. Visitors come to walk the park’s varied trails, from flat riverside paths to steeper routes that follow chains bolted into the rock face. The most well-known of these, Angels Landing, ends at a narrow ridge above the canyon floor and requires a permit to access. Wildlife is common throughout — deer, wild turkeys, and California condors are regularly spotted. The park receives well over four million visitors a year, making it one of the busiest in the United States, so early mornings tend to be quieter. Entry is straightforward, and a shuttle bus runs through the main canyon during the busier months.
More to Explore
