Arches National Park in south-eastern Utah is a dramatic high-desert landscape sheltering more than 2000 natural sandstone arches shaped over millennia by erosion wind and water offering visitors world-class hiking photography and stargazing beneath some of America's most spectacular red rock scenery.
Utah – Snow Canyon; Five great things to do
🌵 Snow Canyon — Utah’s Best Kept Secret
We’ve done Southern Utah a few times now, mostly to tick off the big-name National Parks — Zion, Bryce Canyon, the usual suspects that every travel magazine won’t shut up about. And brilliant they are too, don’t get me wrong. But it was on our last trip to Zion, somewhere on a dusty trail with aching knees and a water bottle that was already half empty, that we got chatting to a local woman who lives over in St George. She was one of those annoyingly energetic hikers who look like they’ve just stepped out of an REI catalogue. She told us to stop faffing about with the crowds and go and have a look at Snow Canyon State Park, just a few miles outside of St George. Well, we weren’t about to ignore a tip like that from someone who actually lives there. So the very next day, we detoured and went to take a look. And rather to our surprise — and I don’t say this lightly — we were not disappointed.
Snow Canyon itself has a rather dramatic backstory that’s worth knowing before you set foot in the place. The canyon was carved out over millions of years by a combination of ancient volcanic activity and the relentless erosion of Navajo sandstone, that gorgeous, stripy red rock you see absolutely everywhere in this part of Utah. The park sits in the Mojave Desert and covers around 7,500 acres of lava fields, red and white sandstone formations, and sand dunes — and it’s been there, doing its thing quietly, since 1959 when it was established as a Utah State Park. Named after a pair of local pioneers, Lorenzo and Erastus Snow, it somehow manages to feel almost entirely off the tourist radar, which given that it’s just outside St George — a city of nearly 100,000 people — is frankly remarkable. St George itself boomed in the mid-20th century and has been growing ever since, but Snow Canyon just sits there on its doorstep, not making a fuss, waiting for someone to notice it.
🦋 1. Butterfly Trail, Lava Flow Tubes & West Canyon Road Loop
Our first proper stop — and the one we’d recommend you start with — was a cracking loop hike that strings together several trails in one go. It’s the sort of walk that keeps surprising you, which is the best kind. You start at the Petrified Dunes car park, which is easy enough to find and, when we went, mercifully not rammed with coaches.
The first leg takes you along the Butterfly Trail, which winds its way through some genuinely stunning red rock formations. The trail gets its name from the way the sandstone layers have folded and buckled over geological time into shapes that — if you squint a bit and use your imagination — resemble butterfly wings. The rock here is Navajo sandstone, laid down around 180 million years ago during the Jurassic period, when this entire region was an enormous inland desert of shifting sand dunes not entirely unlike the Sahara. Hard to picture when you’re standing in the middle of Utah, but there you are. Along the Butterfly Trail there are several viewpoints that open up across the park and, on a clear morning, they’re quite something. The kind of view that makes you momentarily forget your knees hurt.
From the Butterfly Trail you can cut across onto the Lava Flow Trail, where things get genuinely interesting. This stretch of the park sits on top of ancient volcanic terrain — Snow Canyon’s lava fields were formed by eruptions from nearby volcanoes, the most recent of which happened a mere 27,000 years ago, which in geological terms is basically last Tuesday. The real draw here are the lava tubes themselves: deep, hollow tunnels that were once channels of fast-moving molten rock. As the outer crust cooled and solidified, the lava inside kept flowing and eventually drained out completely, leaving behind these extraordinary natural pipes bored through the rock. It’s remarkable, frankly, that you can just wander into them. No ticket booth, no safety briefing, no man in a hi-vis telling you to mind your head. Just bring a decent headlamp — once you get past the entrance it goes pitch black very quickly.
Past the lava tubes, the trail throws one more thing at you — a proper overlook with views across the surrounding valley that make the whole sweaty business worthwhile. Getting up there does require a bit of scrambling over rocky ground, and it’s not exactly what the doctor ordered for anyone with dodgy knees. But it’s not technical climbing, just the sort of determined clambering that makes you feel mildly heroic once you’re up. And when you get there, the view is genuinely spectacular. Worth every ungainly stumble on the way up.
The trail eventually joins West Canyon Road for the final stretch, looping you back to the Petrified Dunes car park where you started — which is always satisfying, not having to retrace your steps like you’ve forgotten something.
The whole thing is only 2.8 miles with 393 feet of elevation change, so it’s hardly Everest. Manageable, even for those of us who’ve been telling ourselves we’ll get fitter since approximately 2003.
🪨 2. The Petrified Dunes Trail
From the car park, the Petrified Dunes are barely half a mile away, which even by my standards counts as a gentle stroll rather than a proper hike. You can easily bolt this one onto the Butterfly Trail and do the whole thing in one go, which is exactly what we did.
What you’re actually looking at here is one of those geological curiosities that sounds made-up until you see it for yourself. Millions of years ago — back in that same Jurassic period when this whole region was one vast shifting desert — enormous sand dunes built up across the landscape. Over time, groundwater carrying minerals seeped through those dunes and gradually cemented the individual grains of sand together, turning the whole lot to stone. Hence the name. Petrified dunes. Geology doing exactly what it says on the tin.
What makes them particularly good fun — and yes, I’m using the words “good fun” about a pile of ancient rocks, bear with me — is that centuries of wind and rain have worn the surface down into a series of natural stepped ridges. It gives the dunes an almost staircase-like texture that makes scrambling up them far easier than you’d expect, and considerably more interesting to look at.
🏜️ 3. Jenny’s Canyon
Jenny’s Canyon was one of those places that crept up on us completely unexpectedly. Slot canyons in this part of Utah tend to require a bit of effort — a long hike, a permit, or at the very least, a stern talking-to from a park ranger. Jenny’s Canyon required none of that. It was an easy half-mile walk from the road along a sandy, flat path that even my complaining feet managed without incident.
What greeted us at the end of that gentle stroll was genuinely jaw-dropping. The walls of Navajo sandstone — the same ancient rock laid down here roughly 180 million years ago — rose up on either side in great sweeping curves, carved and honeycombed by millennia of wind and water into shapes that no human hand could ever replicate. The canyon itself is only a few hundred feet long, which sounds underwhelming until you’re standing inside it. Look down, and you’re on soft sand. Look sideways, and the sculpted walls press in close, riddled with pockets, hollows, and in a handful of spots, tiny natural pillars and miniature arches that look like something from a very ambitious model village. Look up, and the sky is reduced to a thin, bright sliver — a reminder of quite how deep you’ve wandered.
🏜️ 4. Sand Dunes
Snow Canyon isn’t just about ancient, petrified landscapes — it also has proper living sand dunes, the sort that actually shift and move about as dunes are supposed to do, rather than sitting there looking geological and worthy. And they’re red. Of course they’re red. Everything in this part of Utah is red, because the iron-rich Navajo sandstone that dominates the entire region sheds its colour into everything around it, including, apparently, the sand itself. It’s actually rather striking — not your standard beige seaside affair, but proper rust-coloured dunes that look like someone’s turned the contrast up.
The dunes are genuinely great fun to explore, and there are short, easy walks winding among them that don’t require hiking poles, a survival kit, or a worrying level of fitness. Keep your eyes open as you wander — Snow Canyon is home to a decent variety of desert plants and wildlife, including the odd lizard going about its business with tremendous self-importance. It’s also, and we say this without embarrassment, a genuinely lovely spot for a picnic or simply messing about in the sand like a child. Sometimes that’s enough.
🪨 5. Pioneer Names Trail
The Pioneer Names Trail turned out to be one of those unexpected little gems that you stumble across and end up being rather glad you made the effort. It’s a short, easy walk from the main road along a sandy path — nothing that’s going to trouble your knees or require a packed lunch — but what’s waiting at the end of it is genuinely worth the bother.
The main attraction is a canyon wall covered in names written by Mormon pioneer families who settled this part of Utah from around 1881 onwards. And here’s the bit that really got us — they wrote them in wagon axle grease. Not exactly your Tate Modern art installation, but it’s held up remarkably well, protected by a natural rock arch that’s been keeping the weather off it for well over a century. The early Mormon settlers apparently used the canyon as a spot for picnics, which is rather charming when you think about it, and these names were almost certainly left by picnic parties and local cattle ranchers. Ordinary people, just marking that they’d been there. We do the same now, except we use Instagram.
The area also doubles as a popular rock climbing spot. The anchor bolts are drilled into the canyon walls, and if the timing’s right, you might catch climbers working their way up the cliff faces. We didn’t, obviously. That would have required some luck..
In summary …
- Very close to St George, Utah and a great side visit if you are in the area to visit Zion, National Park
- Easy to explore in a day with lots of easy trails that are suitable for families
- It gets hot in the summer so wear hats, put on sunscreen and take plenty of water
- Don’t forget to bring and headlamp or flashlight if you want to explore the lava tubes
Planning your visit to Snow Canyon
🏜️ Snow Canyon State Park
| 📍 Location | 1002 Snow Canyon Drive, Ivins, Utah 84738 | 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM (year-round, no holiday closures) |
| 🌐 Website | stateparks.utah.gov/parks/snow-canyon | 📞 Phone | 435-628-2255 |
| snowcanyon@utah.gov |
🚗 How to Get There
| Nearest Airport | St. George Regional Airport (SGU) — 26 miles, approx. 33 mins by car. Served by United and Delta Airlines with car hire available. Harry Reid International (Las Vegas) — approx. 2 hours (130 miles) via I-15 |
| From Las Vegas | I-15 North to Exit 6 (Bluff Street/SR-18), north to Snow Canyon Parkway, left approx. 3.5 miles, right onto Snow Canyon Drive to south entrance |
| From Salt Lake City | I-15 South approx. 310 miles (~4.5 hours), Exit 10 (Washington), right off ramp then immediate left onto Red Hills Parkway, follow ~5 miles to Snow Canyon Parkway, then right onto Snow Canyon Drive |
| From St. George | 11 miles northwest via Snow Canyon Parkway (~20 mins) |
| From Zion National Park | 50 miles west (~1 hour) via I-15 |
| By Bus | Sundt Route 5 (Ivins) serves the area; a car is strongly recommended for full park access |
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Per Vehicle (up to 8 people) | Seniors 62+ (Utah residents) | Pedestrians / Cyclists | Annual Utah State Parks Pass | Local Desert Discovery Pass |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| $15 | $5 | $5 | $75 | $30 |
ℹ️ Day-use passes can be purchased in person or online. The park may close temporarily when it reaches capacity — arrive early at weekends and on public holidays. Pets permitted at the campground, on West Canyon Road, and on the Whiptail Trail only (must be leashed).
Entry fees are set by Utah State Parks and may be subject to revision; visitors are advised to confirm current charges before their visit.
Best Time to Visit Utah
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Spring is widely considered one of the finest times to explore Utah’s southern national parks. Temperatures are mild and pleasant, wildflowers begin to bloom across the desert plateaus, and the tourist crowds that descend in summer have yet to arrive in full force. Zion and Bryce Canyon are at their most accessible and inviting, with trails drying out after winter snowmelt and the landscape flushed with fresh colour.
March can still bring cold nights and lingering snow at higher elevations, particularly in Bryce Canyon, which sits above 2,400 metres. By April, conditions across most of the state are ideal for hiking, cycling, and photography. May is the sweet spot — warm days, cool evenings, manageable visitor numbers — though it does mark the beginning of the busier season, so booking accommodation in advance is advisable.
The Virgin River in Zion runs fast and murky with snowmelt through spring, which means the famous Narrows slot canyon hike may be restricted or closed. Always check conditions before setting out.
What to pack: Layering is essential — a lightweight down jacket, a waterproof shell, and moisture-wicking base layers cover the temperature swings. Comfortable hiking boots with ankle support, UV-protective sunglasses, a wide-brimmed hat, high-SPF suncream, and a reusable water bottle. Trekking poles are useful on muddy or uneven trails. Pack a light fleece for cool evenings and a small day pack for hiking.
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Summer brings the most visitors to Utah, and for good reason — long daylight hours, dry skies, and lively park atmospheres make it a popular choice for families and those seeking maximum outdoor time. However, it also brings intense heat, particularly in the lower desert parks. Arches and Canyonlands regularly exceed 38°C in July and August, making midday hiking genuinely dangerous. The sensible approach is to hike at dawn, retreat to shade or air-conditioned accommodation during peak afternoon heat, and venture out again in the early evening.
Bryce Canyon and Cedar Breaks, sitting at higher elevations, offer welcome relief from the heat and are excellent summer destinations. Southern Utah’s monsoon season typically begins in mid-July, bringing dramatic afternoon thunderstorms that can cause flash flooding in narrow slot canyons — always check weather forecasts before entering confined trails like The Narrows or Antelope Canyon.
For those willing to escape the crowds, northern Utah’s Uinta Mountains offer superb summer hiking and camping at elevation, with cooler temperatures and fewer visitors than the national parks.
What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing in light colours, a sun hat and UV-protective sunglasses, a high-SPF suncream (SPF 50+), a hydration pack or multiple large water bottles, electrolyte tablets, and a headlamp for early starts. A light waterproof layer for afternoon monsoon storms, quick-dry fabrics, and sandals for camp. Insect repellent is useful for forested areas. Book campsites and accommodation months in advance.
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Autumn rivals spring as the best overall season to visit Utah. The crushing summer heat begins to ease by September, crowds thin considerably after the American Labour Day holiday in early September, and the landscape transforms with spectacular warm tones. Cottonwood trees along canyon floors turn gold, scrub oak flushes red and orange, and the clear blue skies of September and October provide perfect conditions for photography.
October is many experienced visitors’ preferred month — daytime temperatures hover around a comfortable 15–22°C in most parks, the light is rich and golden, and the national parks feel spacious and unhurried once again. Higher elevation areas such as the Wasatch Front and the Uintas begin to see snow from October onwards, marking the start of the ski season build-up. November brings cooler temperatures and the possibility of early snowfall at elevation, which can be beautiful but requires additional preparation.
The Zion Narrows, often inaccessible in spring due to high water levels, is typically at its finest in late summer and early autumn when flows are low and temperatures are manageable.
What to pack: Versatile layering including a mid-weight fleece, a windproof and waterproof outer jacket, and light base layers. Sturdy hiking boots, warm socks, and a woolly hat and gloves for higher elevations. Sunglasses and suncream remain essential even in autumn. A small tripod is worth carrying for golden-hour photography. Neoprene socks and a walking pole if attempting The Narrows, and waterproof trousers for wet canyon hikes.
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Winter in Utah is a tale of two experiences. For skiers and snowboarders, it is nothing short of exceptional. The Wasatch Range near Salt Lake City — home to resorts including Park City, Alta, Snowbird, Deer Valley, and Solitude — regularly receives some of the deepest, lightest powder snow in the world. Utah’s ski season typically runs from November through April, with peak conditions in January and February.
The national parks take on an entirely different and deeply beautiful character in winter. Bryce Canyon’s pink and orange hoodoos dusted with snow are among the most photographed sights in the American West. Crowds are minimal, accommodation prices drop significantly, and the silence of the desert in winter is profound. However, many trails become icy and require microspikes or snowshoes, and some park roads close seasonally.
Temperatures at night in the southern parks can drop to -10°C or below, and roads to higher viewpoints may be closed. Despite these challenges, winter offers a genuinely magical and uncrowded way to experience Utah for those prepared for cold conditions.
What to pack: For skiing: thermal base layers, ski-specific mid-layers, a waterproof and insulated ski jacket and trousers, ski socks, goggles, a helmet, and neck gaiter. For national park visits: a heavy insulated jacket, waterproof trousers, thermal underlayers, sturdy waterproof boots, warm hat, gloves and scarf, microspikes or snowshoes, hand warmers, and a thermos. Suncream is still necessary as UV reflection off snow is intense.
🏆 The Overall Best Time to Visit
If you are planning your first — or only — trip to Utah and want the ideal balance of weather, trail access, scenery, and manageable crowds, late September to mid-October stands out as the single finest window. The summer heat has passed, the monsoon storms have largely subsided, and the autumn colours add warmth and drama to landscapes that are already extraordinary. Most trails are fully open, temperatures are comfortable from morning to evening, and the parks feel genuinely peaceful compared to the height of summer. Spring — particularly April and early May — runs a very close second, offering similar conditions alongside the freshness of wildflowers and snowmelt-fed waterfalls. Whichever season draws you, Utah rewards the prepared traveller with scenery that is, quite simply, unlike anywhere else on earth.
Other places close by worth visiting
1. Arches National Park
Arches National Park sits in the high desert of eastern Utah, USA, and is home to over 2,000 natural sandstone arches — more than anywhere else on earth. The landscape is stark and dry, shaped by millions of years of erosion, freezing and thawing, and the slow movement of salt beneath the ground. The rock glows red and orange in the sun, and the arches themselves range from small openings you might barely notice to massive spans like Delicate Arch, which stands 20 metres tall and has become something of a symbol for the state of Utah. The park sits at around 1,200 to 1,700 metres above sea level, which means summers are hot but not unbearable, and winters bring occasional snow that settles briefly on the warm-coloured stone. Walking trails vary from short, easy paths to longer routes over uneven slickrock. It is a popular destination, particularly in spring and autumn, and visitor numbers have grown significantly in recent years, so the park now requires timed entry permits during busy periods. It is a straightforward but genuinely striking place — the sort of landscape that is hard to picture until you are standing in it.
2. Bryce Canyon
Bryce Canyon National Park sits in the high plateaus of south-western Utah, in the United States, at an elevation of roughly 2,400 to 2,700 metres above sea level. Despite its name, it is not actually a canyon but rather a series of natural amphitheatres carved into the edge of a plateau by millions of years of erosion. The park is best known for its hoodoos — tall, thin columns of rock left standing after wind, rain, and frost gradually wore away the softer material around them. These formations come in shades of orange, red, and cream, which tend to look especially vivid in the early morning and late afternoon light. The park receives around 1.5 million visitors a year, drawn by the scenery and the network of walking trails that range from short, easy paths along the rim to longer, steeper routes that descend into the amphitheatres. Winters are cold and snowy, and the snow cover against the red rock is a feature in its own right. Summers are warm during the day but can be cool at night due to the altitude. The area is also noted for its dark skies, which make it a reasonable spot for stargazing away from city light pollution.
3. Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands is a vast stretch of rugged desert landscape in south-eastern Utah, carved over millions of years by the Colorado and Green rivers. The park covers around 1,370 square kilometres and is divided into four districts — Island in the Sky, The Needles, The Maze, and the river corridors — each with its own character and level of accessibility. The terrain is dramatic, made up of deep canyons, flat-topped mesas, and weathered rock formations in shades of red, orange, and brown. It is a genuinely remote place; roads are limited, mobile signal is sparse, and some areas require a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle or several days on foot to reach. The weather can be extreme, with fierce summer heat and cold winters, so most visitors tend to come in spring or autumn. Wildlife includes coyotes, ravens, lizards, and the occasional desert bighorn sheep. There are no large towns nearby, and facilities within the park are minimal, so visitors are expected to come well prepared with food, water, and a clear plan. It is not a particularly comfortable place to explore, but for those who are drawn to open, unspoilt landscapes, it has a quiet and lasting appeal.
4. Zion National Park
covers around 230 square miles of canyon country. The park’s most striking feature is Zion Canyon, a narrow gorge carved over millions of years by the Virgin River, with sandstone walls that rise up to 800 metres in places. The rock shifts between deep reds, oranges, and creams depending on the light and time of day. Visitors come to walk the park’s varied trails, from flat riverside paths to steeper routes that follow chains bolted into the rock face. The most well-known of these, Angels Landing, ends at a narrow ridge above the canyon floor and requires a permit to access. Wildlife is common throughout — deer, wild turkeys, and California condors are regularly spotted. The park receives well over four million visitors a year, making it one of the busiest in the United States, so early mornings tend to be quieter. Entry is straightforward, and a shuttle bus runs through the main canyon during the busier months.
Where to stay
1. Red Mountain Resort
Tucked into the striking red rock landscape of Ivins, just outside St. George, Utah, Red Mountain Resort is one of the Southwest’s most breathtaking wellness retreats. With the dramatic vermillion cliffs of Snow Canyon State Park as its backdrop, the resort blends adventure and restoration in equal measure. Guests can hike ancient lava fields at sunrise, unwind with a hot stone massage, and fuel up on thoughtfully crafted spa cuisine — all in the same afternoon. Whether you’re a solo traveller craving a digital detox or a couple seeking a scenic escape, Red Mountain offers something rare: the feeling that the landscape itself is part of the healing.
2. Inn On The Cliff
Perched dramatically above the red-rock landscape of southern Utah, Inn on the Cliff is a luxury boutique hotel situated on a cliff overlooking the charming town of St. George. Rooms are designed with a warm, contemporary style and are known for being simply luxurious, each crafted to enhance the cliff-side view of the surrounding scenery. Every room comes with a private balcony, a 50-inch flat-screen TV, a small refrigerator, and coffee-making facilities, and guests can unwind in the seasonal outdoor pool or hot tub. A complimentary continental breakfast is delivered right to your room, and the on-site Cliffside Restaurant offers a dining experience unlike anywhere else in the region. The hotel has even been featured on Trivago’s “Once In A Lifetime: Spectacular North American Bucket List Hotels You Need To See” list — and once you take in that panoramic view, it’s easy to understand why
3. My Place
If you’re searching for a home base to explore the red rock wonders of southern Utah, My Place Hotel in St. George sits amid sweeping red rock cliffs and is perfectly positioned for hikers, weekend travelers, and anyone keen to soak up the charm of the region. The hotel offers a full kitchen in every room, an on-site laundromat, and a MyStore stocked with everyday essentials — making it especially well-suited for extended stays or families who prefer the flexibility of cooking their own meals. Pet-friendly rooms, complimentary coffee, free Wi-Fi, and a 24-hour front desk round out the comforts, while an outdoor pool and hot tub give you a place to unwind after a day on the trails. Nearby attractions include Pioneer Park, the Red Hills Desert Garden, and the St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site, meaning adventure is always just a short drive away. Whether you’re passing through or settling in for a week, My Place genuinely lives up to its motto: Make My Place Your Place.
More to Explore
