Arches National Park in south-eastern Utah is a dramatic high-desert landscape sheltering more than 2000 natural sandstone arches shaped over millennia by erosion wind and water offering visitors world-class hiking photography and stargazing beneath some of America's most spectacular red rock scenery.
Utah: Butch Cassidy’s childhood home
🤠 A Brief History of Butch Cassidy
Robert LeRoy Parker came into the world on 13th April 1866, in Beaver, Utah — the first of what would eventually be thirteen children. His Mormon parents, Maximillian and Ann Parker, had made the long journey over from England back in 1856, part of that great wave of converts who apparently thought Utah sounded like a fine idea. In 1879, the family uprooted again and moved to Circleville, a small farming settlement in the high plateau country of southern Utah. It didn’t go particularly well. The land was tough, money was scarce, and young Roy Parker — as he was then known — fell in with a local rancher of distinctly questionable character called Mike Cassidy. Mike rustled cattle, and Roy thought that was absolutely marvellous. By 1884, Roy was at it himself, and had adopted the surname of his dodgy mentor, becoming Butch Cassidy. It was, at least, a better name than Robert LeRoy Parker.
🏦 The Making of an Outlaw
Cassidy drifted west to Telluride, Colorado, a silver-mining boomtown perched improbably in the San Juan Mountains. It was there, on 24th June 1889, that he committed his first serious crime — the robbery of the San Miguel Valley Bank. It was a clean job, netting the gang around twenty-one thousand dollars, and it rather set the tone for the years ahead. Cassidy’s reputation grew steadily, and so did his circle of associates. By the mid-1890s, his loosely organised gang had acquired the gloriously theatrical name the Wild Bunch — a collection of outlaws, drifters, and general ne’er-do-wells who shared a talent for robbing things and a healthy disregard for the law. They established a network of remote hideouts across the western states, the most famous being the Hole-in-the-Wall, a canyon stronghold tucked away in the Bighorn Mountains of central Wyoming, where the terrain was so rugged that lawmen were understandably reluctant to follow. The first robbery formally credited to the Wild Bunch as a group took place in August 1896 — a bank holdup in Montpelier, Idaho — and they kept at it with considerable enthusiasm for the next several years, hitting banks and train payrolls across Wyoming, Utah, Nevada and beyond. As their notoriety grew, so did the number of people trying to catch them, including the famous Pinkerton National Detective Agency, whose agents pursued them with a persistence that must have been deeply tiresome.
🌍 The End of the Road
By 1902, the Wild Bunch had run its course. The relentless pressure from the Pinkertons and various law enforcement agencies had made life in the American West rather uncomfortable, and the gang quietly dissolved. Cassidy, ever the pragmatist, decided that South America sounded promising. He made his way to England first — presumably for a bit of a rest — and then on to Argentina, where he was joined by his old partner Harry Longabaugh, better known as the Sundance Kid, and Sundance’s companion Etta Place. Together, the three of them purchased a small ranch in the remote Patagonian territory of Chubut Province and, for a while at least, went entirely straight. It must have been very dull. The peaceful interlude came to an abrupt end when a stock buyer and former Wyoming deputy named Ercilio Lara passed through the region and recognised the pair for who they were. That was enough. Cassidy and Sundance were back to their old habits almost immediately, robbing banks and mine payrolls across Bolivia and Argentina with their customary efficiency.
It all ended on 7th November 1908, in the small Bolivian mining village of San Vicente. The Bolivian Army was dispatched after two English-speaking men — suspected of robbing a payroll courier — were tracked to a boarding house in the village. When soldiers approached the building, shots rang out from inside. There was a brief and violent exchange of fire. Then came screaming. Then two final gunshots, and silence. The soldiers waited until daylight before entering. Inside, they found two dead men. The bodies weren’t properly identified before burial — this was Bolivia in 1908, not exactly a place with rigorous forensic procedures — but it has long been accepted that these were Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Whether or not that’s entirely true remains, technically, a matter of some debate, but it makes for a far better ending than “retired quietly to New Jersey.”
🏡 The Parker Family Homestead
The cabin where it all began — the modest Parker family homestead — sits just south of Circleville, Utah, on Highway 89, and you really can’t miss it if you’re heading that way. There’s parking, which is always a relief. The cabin itself is remarkably small. One looks at it and tries to imagine two parents and thirteen children living inside, and the imagination frankly gives up. But that was simply how things were in rural Utah in the 1880s — cramped, hard, and not particularly romantic whatever the films might suggest. The State of Utah has done a decent job restoring the place, and it’s worth a few minutes of your time if you happen to be passing. I wouldn’t suggest driving three hours out of your way for it, but if Highway 89 is already on your itinerary, stop, have a look inside, and spare a thought for young Roy Parker, who stood in this very spot and concluded that honest farming was probably not for him.
Planning Your Visit to The Parker Homestead
🤠 Butch Cassidy’s Childhood Home
| 📍 Location | US Highway 89, approx. 3 miles south of Circleville, Garfield County, Utah 84723 | 🕖 Opening Times | Open daily, dawn to dusk (unstaffed, self-guided) |
| 🌐 Website | stateparks.utah.gov | 📞 Phone | No dedicated site phone — managed by Utah Division of Parks & Recreation |
| 🚗 By Road | On the west side of US-89 between Panguitch (30 mins south) and Richfield (1 hr north). Look for the brown state recreation sign. Ample parking for cars, RVs and trailers. |
🎟️ Entry Fees
| All Visitors | Parking |
|---|---|
| Free | Free |
ℹ️ The site is completely unstaffed and self-guided. Facilities include restrooms and picnic tables. The cabin interior is viewable through a plexiglass screen. No public transport serves this location — a private vehicle is essential.
This is a remote rural site with no nearby services. Visitors are advised to arrive with a full fuel tank and sufficient water, particularly in summer.
Best Time to Visit Utah
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Spring is widely considered one of the finest times to explore Utah’s southern national parks. Temperatures are mild and pleasant, wildflowers begin to bloom across the desert plateaus, and the tourist crowds that descend in summer have yet to arrive in full force. Zion and Bryce Canyon are at their most accessible and inviting, with trails drying out after winter snowmelt and the landscape flushed with fresh colour.
March can still bring cold nights and lingering snow at higher elevations, particularly in Bryce Canyon, which sits above 2,400 metres. By April, conditions across most of the state are ideal for hiking, cycling, and photography. May is the sweet spot — warm days, cool evenings, manageable visitor numbers — though it does mark the beginning of the busier season, so booking accommodation in advance is advisable.
The Virgin River in Zion runs fast and murky with snowmelt through spring, which means the famous Narrows slot canyon hike may be restricted or closed. Always check conditions before setting out.
What to pack: Layering is essential — a lightweight down jacket, a waterproof shell, and moisture-wicking base layers cover the temperature swings. Comfortable hiking boots with ankle support, UV-protective sunglasses, a wide-brimmed hat, high-SPF suncream, and a reusable water bottle. Trekking poles are useful on muddy or uneven trails. Pack a light fleece for cool evenings and a small day pack for hiking.
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Summer brings the most visitors to Utah, and for good reason — long daylight hours, dry skies, and lively park atmospheres make it a popular choice for families and those seeking maximum outdoor time. However, it also brings intense heat, particularly in the lower desert parks. Arches and Canyonlands regularly exceed 38°C in July and August, making midday hiking genuinely dangerous. The sensible approach is to hike at dawn, retreat to shade or air-conditioned accommodation during peak afternoon heat, and venture out again in the early evening.
Bryce Canyon and Cedar Breaks, sitting at higher elevations, offer welcome relief from the heat and are excellent summer destinations. Southern Utah’s monsoon season typically begins in mid-July, bringing dramatic afternoon thunderstorms that can cause flash flooding in narrow slot canyons — always check weather forecasts before entering confined trails like The Narrows or Antelope Canyon.
For those willing to escape the crowds, northern Utah’s Uinta Mountains offer superb summer hiking and camping at elevation, with cooler temperatures and fewer visitors than the national parks.
What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing in light colours, a sun hat and UV-protective sunglasses, a high-SPF suncream (SPF 50+), a hydration pack or multiple large water bottles, electrolyte tablets, and a headlamp for early starts. A light waterproof layer for afternoon monsoon storms, quick-dry fabrics, and sandals for camp. Insect repellent is useful for forested areas. Book campsites and accommodation months in advance.
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Autumn rivals spring as the best overall season to visit Utah. The crushing summer heat begins to ease by September, crowds thin considerably after the American Labour Day holiday in early September, and the landscape transforms with spectacular warm tones. Cottonwood trees along canyon floors turn gold, scrub oak flushes red and orange, and the clear blue skies of September and October provide perfect conditions for photography.
October is many experienced visitors’ preferred month — daytime temperatures hover around a comfortable 15–22°C in most parks, the light is rich and golden, and the national parks feel spacious and unhurried once again. Higher elevation areas such as the Wasatch Front and the Uintas begin to see snow from October onwards, marking the start of the ski season build-up. November brings cooler temperatures and the possibility of early snowfall at elevation, which can be beautiful but requires additional preparation.
The Zion Narrows, often inaccessible in spring due to high water levels, is typically at its finest in late summer and early autumn when flows are low and temperatures are manageable.
What to pack: Versatile layering including a mid-weight fleece, a windproof and waterproof outer jacket, and light base layers. Sturdy hiking boots, warm socks, and a woolly hat and gloves for higher elevations. Sunglasses and suncream remain essential even in autumn. A small tripod is worth carrying for golden-hour photography. Neoprene socks and a walking pole if attempting The Narrows, and waterproof trousers for wet canyon hikes.
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Winter in Utah is a tale of two experiences. For skiers and snowboarders, it is nothing short of exceptional. The Wasatch Range near Salt Lake City — home to resorts including Park City, Alta, Snowbird, Deer Valley, and Solitude — regularly receives some of the deepest, lightest powder snow in the world. Utah’s ski season typically runs from November through April, with peak conditions in January and February.
The national parks take on an entirely different and deeply beautiful character in winter. Bryce Canyon’s pink and orange hoodoos dusted with snow are among the most photographed sights in the American West. Crowds are minimal, accommodation prices drop significantly, and the silence of the desert in winter is profound. However, many trails become icy and require microspikes or snowshoes, and some park roads close seasonally.
Temperatures at night in the southern parks can drop to -10°C or below, and roads to higher viewpoints may be closed. Despite these challenges, winter offers a genuinely magical and uncrowded way to experience Utah for those prepared for cold conditions.
What to pack: For skiing: thermal base layers, ski-specific mid-layers, a waterproof and insulated ski jacket and trousers, ski socks, goggles, a helmet, and neck gaiter. For national park visits: a heavy insulated jacket, waterproof trousers, thermal underlayers, sturdy waterproof boots, warm hat, gloves and scarf, microspikes or snowshoes, hand warmers, and a thermos. Suncream is still necessary as UV reflection off snow is intense.
🏆 The Overall Best Time to Visit
If you are planning your first — or only — trip to Utah and want the ideal balance of weather, trail access, scenery, and manageable crowds, late September to mid-October stands out as the single finest window. The summer heat has passed, the monsoon storms have largely subsided, and the autumn colours add warmth and drama to landscapes that are already extraordinary. Most trails are fully open, temperatures are comfortable from morning to evening, and the parks feel genuinely peaceful compared to the height of summer. Spring — particularly April and early May — runs a very close second, offering similar conditions alongside the freshness of wildflowers and snowmelt-fed waterfalls. Whichever season draws you, Utah rewards the prepared traveller with scenery that is, quite simply, unlike anywhere else on earth.
Other places close by worth visiting
1. Arches National Park
Arches National Park sits in the high desert of eastern Utah, USA, and is home to over 2,000 natural sandstone arches — more than anywhere else on earth. The landscape is stark and dry, shaped by millions of years of erosion, freezing and thawing, and the slow movement of salt beneath the ground. The rock glows red and orange in the sun, and the arches themselves range from small openings you might barely notice to massive spans like Delicate Arch, which stands 20 metres tall and has become something of a symbol for the state of Utah. The park sits at around 1,200 to 1,700 metres above sea level, which means summers are hot but not unbearable, and winters bring occasional snow that settles briefly on the warm-coloured stone. Walking trails vary from short, easy paths to longer routes over uneven slickrock. It is a popular destination, particularly in spring and autumn, and visitor numbers have grown significantly in recent years, so the park now requires timed entry permits during busy periods. It is a straightforward but genuinely striking place — the sort of landscape that is hard to picture until you are standing in it.
2. Bryce Canyon
Bryce Canyon National Park sits in the high plateaus of south-western Utah, in the United States, at an elevation of roughly 2,400 to 2,700 metres above sea level. Despite its name, it is not actually a canyon but rather a series of natural amphitheatres carved into the edge of a plateau by millions of years of erosion. The park is best known for its hoodoos — tall, thin columns of rock left standing after wind, rain, and frost gradually wore away the softer material around them. These formations come in shades of orange, red, and cream, which tend to look especially vivid in the early morning and late afternoon light. The park receives around 1.5 million visitors a year, drawn by the scenery and the network of walking trails that range from short, easy paths along the rim to longer, steeper routes that descend into the amphitheatres. Winters are cold and snowy, and the snow cover against the red rock is a feature in its own right. Summers are warm during the day but can be cool at night due to the altitude. The area is also noted for its dark skies, which make it a reasonable spot for stargazing away from city light pollution.
3. Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands is a vast stretch of rugged desert landscape in south-eastern Utah, carved over millions of years by the Colorado and Green rivers. The park covers around 1,370 square kilometres and is divided into four districts — Island in the Sky, The Needles, The Maze, and the river corridors — each with its own character and level of accessibility. The terrain is dramatic, made up of deep canyons, flat-topped mesas, and weathered rock formations in shades of red, orange, and brown. It is a genuinely remote place; roads are limited, mobile signal is sparse, and some areas require a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle or several days on foot to reach. The weather can be extreme, with fierce summer heat and cold winters, so most visitors tend to come in spring or autumn. Wildlife includes coyotes, ravens, lizards, and the occasional desert bighorn sheep. There are no large towns nearby, and facilities within the park are minimal, so visitors are expected to come well prepared with food, water, and a clear plan. It is not a particularly comfortable place to explore, but for those who are drawn to open, unspoilt landscapes, it has a quiet and lasting appeal.
4. Zion National Park
covers around 230 square miles of canyon country. The park’s most striking feature is Zion Canyon, a narrow gorge carved over millions of years by the Virgin River, with sandstone walls that rise up to 800 metres in places. The rock shifts between deep reds, oranges, and creams depending on the light and time of day. Visitors come to walk the park’s varied trails, from flat riverside paths to steeper routes that follow chains bolted into the rock face. The most well-known of these, Angels Landing, ends at a narrow ridge above the canyon floor and requires a permit to access. Wildlife is common throughout — deer, wild turkeys, and California condors are regularly spotted. The park receives well over four million visitors a year, making it one of the busiest in the United States, so early mornings tend to be quieter. Entry is straightforward, and a shuttle bus runs through the main canyon during the busier months.
More to Explore
