Thekkady is a mist-wrapped highland town on the edge of Periyar Tiger Reserve in Kerala's Cardamom Hills, where boat safaris on Periyar Lake bring visitors face to face with wild elephants, gaur and the dense forests of the Western Ghats.
India: Kerala – The tea plantations of Munnar
🌿 Discovering Munnar
Nestled high in the Western Ghats of Kerala, Munnar is one of those rare places where time seems to slow down and nature takes centre stage. The landscape is a patchwork of rolling hills covered in endless shades of green, with mist curling gently through the valleys in the early morning. Tea gardens stretch as far as the eye can see, broken only by winding lanes, silver waterfalls, and small clusters of workers plucking tea leaves with practiced rhythm. The scent of damp earth and fresh leaves fills the air, mingling with the faint sweetness of cardamom and eucalyptus carried on the breeze.
Once a summer retreat for the British during the colonial era, Munnar has retained its old-world charm. Its history, however, runs deeper than just scenic beauty. The town owes much of its development to the tea industry, which transformed the wild hills into cultivated slopes in the late nineteenth century. Today, it remains a place where natural beauty and human effort intertwine — a place where every cup of tea tells a story of the land and its people.
🍃 A Day of Tea and Stories
The plan for the day was simple but exciting — to explore the Munnar region and visit its famous tea plantations. After a hearty breakfast at our hotel, we set off towards the village, where we were to meet our guide, Ramesh. Young, cheerful, and full of local knowledge, Ramesh greeted us with a smile that instantly set the tone for the day. As we drove towards our first stop, the Tea Museum, Karen began chatting with him and discovered his fascinating background.
Ramesh had once worked in Bangalore’s bustling software industry, but the long hours, stress, and low pay had left him disillusioned. He decided to return home to Munnar to work as a guide, close to nature and far from the relentless pace of city life. His true passion, he told us, was wildlife photography. When he wasn’t guiding visitors around the hills, he could often be found trekking through the forests, camera in hand, capturing the quiet beauty of birds, butterflies, and the rare Nilgiri tahr.
🍵 The Legacy of Kanan Devan
The Tea Museum we visited is run by the Kanan Devan Hills Plantations Company (KDHP), a name deeply woven into Munnar’s history. Its origins trace back to 1877 when John Daniel Munro, a British official, leased vast tracts of land in the Kanan Devan hills from the local Poonjar royal family. What began as an experiment in agriculture eventually led to one of India’s most renowned tea industries.
Early planters like A.H. Sharp found that the soil and climate were ideal for tea, and soon vast plantations spread across the region. In 1895, Finlay Muir & Company consolidated several estates under the Kanan Devan Hills Produce Company, which managed the plantations efficiently. Later, in 1964, the company partnered with Tata to form the Tata-Finlay Group, later becoming Tata Tea in 1983. Then, in 2005, the company evolved into KDHP — India’s first employee-owned tea enterprise. This change made the workers themselves shareholders, continuing a long tradition of fair treatment and social responsibility that Tata had established decades earlier.
🏛️ Inside the Tea Museum
Our visit began with a short 15-minute video, beautifully narrated, which chronicled the evolution of tea cultivation in the Kanan Devan hills. It was fascinating to see old photographs of the early British planters, the first tea bushes, and the transformation of wild hillsides into the manicured slopes we see today. The exhibits that followed told more of the story through maps, documents, and artefacts — everything from old weighing scales to giant ceramic vases that had once adorned British bungalows and were too large to be taken home after India’s independence.
The highlight of the museum was the mini tea factory demonstration, which showed each stage of production. We watched the process unfold — from withering and rolling to oxidation and drying — and gained a real appreciation for the craft behind every cup. Only the top two leaves and the tender bud are plucked from each plant, Ramesh explained, as they produce the finest flavour. Watching the machinery hum and spin, it was easy to see how tradition and technology blend seamlessly in Munnar’s tea heritage.
At the end of the tour, we wandered into the small museum shop, which sells teas under the “Ripple Tea” brand. Shelves were lined with packets of black, green, and flavoured teas, all produced locally. Though tempted by many, we left with just a few packets — enough to bring home the taste of Munnar in a cup.
❤️ The People Behind the Tea
One of the things that stood out in the museum’s film was how KDHP continued the Tata tradition of social care. The plantations have long provided their workers with not just employment, but homes, schools, hospitals, and community programmes. Over the years, entire generations have grown up under this system of welfare, creating a close-knit community built on mutual support.
Karen was particularly interested in a section that mentioned businesses established for disabled workers, so she asked Ramesh if we could visit them. He smiled and said yes — our next stop would be the Srishti Centre for Differently Abled People, just a short drive away.
🌸 The Srishti Centre
The Srishti Centre is a cluster of small, independent businesses that employ and empower people with disabilities, many of whom are children of tea plantation workers. The first workshop we visited was the Athulya Paper Studio. Founded in 1999, Athulya produces handmade paper from recycled materials like cotton waste, tea leaves, and even elephant dung. Inside, we were greeted with warm smiles and guided through each step of the process. The air smelled faintly of pulp and dye, and the tables were stacked with sheets of drying paper in beautiful natural tones.
Next, we walked to the Aranya Natural Dyeing Unit, which was established in 1991. Here, artisans — again mostly differently abled — work with plant-based dyes to colour fabrics. The gardens surrounding the workshop were full of flowering plants and herbs used for dyeing. Inside, we watched as fabrics were tied, dipped, and block-printed using intricate techniques like shibori. The results were stunning — soft scarves, elegant dresses, and vibrant wraps, all coloured in the hues of nature. Karen found a garment she loved and had it altered while she chatted with a young university intern who was volunteering at the centre.
While waiting, I wandered into the bakery next door, also run by disabled workers, and sampled a few fresh snacks. The atmosphere throughout the centre was peaceful and purposeful — everyone seemed to take pride in their work, and the sense of community was palpable.
🚗 Exploring Beyond
Once Karen’s outfit was ready, we said our goodbyes and set off for a short drive around the area. Ramesh took us to see a nearby dam and lake — small but scenic, with calm water reflecting the surrounding hills. It wasn’t the most dramatic part of the day, but after the richness of what we had seen, it was the perfect way to wind down. As the afternoon light softened over the hills, we dropped Ramesh back in Munnar village and returned to our hotel, our hearts full from the day’s encounters.
🌄 Final Thoughts
Our day in Munnar was about more than tea and sightseeing — it was about the people who make this region special. From the young guide who followed his passion to the artisans at the Srishti Centre who craft beauty out of resilience, every story added a layer of meaning to the green hills that surround the town. Munnar isn’t just a destination; it’s a living, breathing community rooted in its landscape and traditions.
Planning your visit to Munnar
🌄 Planning Your Visit to Munnar, Kerala
Nestled in the Western Ghats of southern India, Munnar is one of Kerala’s most scenic hill stations, famed for its misty valleys, tea-covered slopes, and cool mountain air. Planning your visit here takes a little thought, especially if you want to make the most of the region’s lush landscapes, viewpoints, and wildlife sanctuaries. Located around 1,600 metres above sea level, Munnar is about 130 kilometres from Kochi, which is the nearest major city and the usual gateway for most visitors. The journey from Kochi to Munnar takes around four to five hours by car, winding through mountain roads lined with rubber plantations, spice gardens, and waterfalls. Although the trip can be slow, the changing scenery makes it an experience in itself.
🚗 Getting There
The most convenient way to reach Munnar is by road. Buses and private taxis operate daily from Kochi, Aluva, and Ernakulam. Travelling by taxi allows more flexibility, with the option to stop at scenic points such as Cheeyappara and Valara Waterfalls along the route. For those arriving by air, the nearest airport is Cochin International Airport, while the closest railway station is Aluva, about 110 kilometres away. From either, road travel is required for the final stretch into the hills. It is advisable to plan your arrival during daylight hours since the roads can be misty and winding after dark.
🏡 Where to Stay
Munnar offers a wide range of accommodation options, from simple homestays to luxury resorts set amidst tea plantations. Many visitors choose to stay slightly outside the busy town centre to enjoy the peace and panoramic views of the surrounding hills. Areas like Chithirapuram, Pothamedu, and Devikulam are popular choices. Booking in advance is essential during peak travel seasons such as December to February and again during the monsoon months when the hills turn vibrant green.
The best time to visit Southern India
🌞 The Best Time to Visit Southern India
Southern India offers a rich tapestry of landscapes — from the misty hill stations of Kerala and Tamil Nadu to the sun-drenched beaches of Goa and Karnataka. Its tropical climate means it can be visited year-round, but the experience varies dramatically with the seasons. Understanding how the weather shifts across the year helps you plan your travels for comfort and adventure alike.
🌼 Winter (November to February) – The Peak Season
Winter is the most pleasant and popular time to visit Southern India. During these months, temperatures are comfortably mild, ranging from 20°C to 30°C across most regions. The air is crisp in the mornings, especially in the Western Ghats and hill stations like Munnar, Coorg, and Ooty, where nights can dip below 15°C. Coastal areas such as Kochi, Chennai, and Goa remain warm but not sweltering, perfect for sightseeing, temple visits, or long days by the sea.
Festivals such as Pongal, Christmas, and the Kerala Boat Races add colour and cultural charm to the season. This is also an excellent time for exploring the wildlife sanctuaries, trekking through spice plantations, or taking houseboat cruises on Kerala’s serene backwaters.
🧳 What to Pack: Light cotton clothes for the day, a light jumper or shawl for cooler evenings, sunhat, sunglasses, comfortable walking shoes, and mosquito repellent.
🌸 Summer (March to May) – Hot but Rewarding
Summer in Southern India can be intense, particularly in coastal and inland cities like Chennai, Hyderabad, and Madurai, where temperatures often exceed 35°C. However, this season has its own appeal. The hill stations are at their most inviting, offering cool retreats surrounded by lush tea estates and cascading waterfalls. It’s also a quieter time for travel, meaning fewer crowds and better deals on accommodation.
Early mornings and evenings are the best times for sightseeing, while afternoons are ideal for leisurely indoor pursuits such as visiting museums or sampling regional cuisine. If you plan to explore the Western Ghats, the air remains cooler and the landscapes are spectacularly green.
🧳 What to Pack: Very light cotton clothing, sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses), a reusable water bottle, and sandals or breathable shoes.
🌧️ Monsoon (June to October) – The Season of Refreshing Rains
The monsoon brings dramatic transformation to Southern India. Lush greenery spreads across the countryside, waterfalls roar back to life, and the air fills with the earthy scent of rain. Kerala and coastal Karnataka are especially beautiful during this time, although frequent downpours can disrupt travel plans. Temperatures remain between 25°C and 32°C, with high humidity levels.
This is also the season for rejuvenation and wellness. Many travellers come to Kerala for traditional Ayurvedic treatments, which are said to be most effective during the monsoon months. Photography lovers will find the region’s landscapes and skies truly captivating. However, road travel can sometimes be challenging due to heavy rainfall and flooding in low-lying areas.
🧳 What to Pack: Quick-dry clothing, a waterproof jacket or poncho, sandals with good grip, an umbrella, insect repellent, and a dry bag for electronics.
📊 Seasonal Summary Chart
| Season | Months | Weather | Highlights | Ideal For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌼 Winter | Nov – Feb | Pleasant (20–30°C) | Festivals, sightseeing, beaches, backwaters | All travellers |
| 🌸 Summer | Mar – May | Hot (30–40°C) | Quiet travel, hill stations, fewer crowds | Budget travellers, nature lovers |
| 🌧️ Monsoon | Jun – Oct | Wet & Humid (25–32°C) | Lush scenery, Ayurveda, photography | Wellness retreats, scenic travel |
🌴 Overall Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Southern India is from November to February, when the climate is at its most comfortable, the skies are clear, and every destination — from the beaches of Goa to the hills of Wayanad — is at its most enjoyable. You’ll experience vibrant festivals, easy travel conditions, and a balance of warmth and freshness that perfectly suits exploration. However, if you prefer solitude and lower prices, late summer or early monsoon (May to July) can also reveal a softer, more tranquil side of Southern India.
Where to stay in Munnar
1. Mid Range: Santhi Hill View Resort
Santhi Hill View Resort in Munnar is a peaceful retreat set amidst the rolling green hills and mist-covered valleys that make this part of Kerala so enchanting. The resort sits slightly elevated, offering wide views across the tea gardens and forested slopes that change colour through the day as the light shifts across the hills. The atmosphere is calm and homely, with the staff known for their warmth and quiet efficiency, making guests feel genuinely looked after. Rooms are clean, comfortable, and simple in style, often featuring private balconies where one can sit and enjoy the cool mountain air and listen to the sounds of birds in the nearby trees. The on-site restaurant serves freshly prepared South Indian and Keralan dishes, with vegetarian options easily available, and the food is often praised for its home-cooked taste. What makes Santhi Hill View Resort particularly special is its closeness to nature—early mornings often bring a soft fog rolling across the valleys, while evenings are perfect for sitting outside under the stars. Its location also makes it convenient for exploring Munnar’s main attractions such as the tea estates, the Eravikulam National Park, and the scenic viewpoints that dot the region, while still being far enough from the busy town centre to enjoy peace and quiet.
2. Luxury – Chandys Windy Woods
Chandys Windy Woods in Munnar is a luxurious hillside retreat that blends modern comfort with the natural beauty of Kerala’s mist-covered mountains. Perched high among the rolling slopes of the Western Ghats, the resort is surrounded by dense forests, tea plantations, and gentle streams that create a serene and cooling atmosphere. The architecture of the property has been carefully designed to complement the landscape, with stone façades, cascading terraces, and large glass windows that open out to sweeping valley views. Inside, the rooms and suites are stylish yet cosy, featuring warm wooden tones, soft lighting, and private balconies that allow guests to enjoy the sight of drifting clouds and the sounds of nature. The resort also offers a heated infinity pool, a spa with traditional Ayurvedic treatments, and a fine dining restaurant that serves both local Kerala specialities and international cuisine. Thoughtful touches, such as evening bonfires, guided plantation walks, and tea-tasting sessions, add to the charm, making it an ideal place to unwind and experience the tranquil spirit of Munnar in complete comfort and elegance.
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