The Chennakeshava and Hoysalesvara Temples, built during the Hoysala period in Karnataka, showcase intricate stone carvings, finely detailed architecture, and a remarkable sense of craftsmanship that reflects the artistic and cultural achievements of their time.
India: Karnataka – Mysore “The City of Palaces”
🕌 The Royal Heart of Mysore
Mysore, often called the City of Palaces, is a place that still breathes its royal past. Set at the foot of the Chamundi Hills, this graceful city in southern Karnataka is filled with wide, tree-lined boulevards, grand architecture, and a sense of timeless pride. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Mysore, it remains a city where history and daily life blend effortlessly. Everywhere you turn there are reminders of its regal heritage — from the fragrance of sandalwood in the markets to the gleam of silk in the shopfronts. It is also a city deeply connected with yoga and classical art, making it one of the most cultural destinations in southern India.
Our day in Mysore began, as most visits do, with the city’s greatest landmark — the Mysore Palace.
🏰 Mysore Palace – A Jewel of the Wadiyars
The Mysore Palace, or Amba Vilas Palace, stands in the very heart of the city, glowing like a vision of another era. It is both a monument and a memory of the grandeur of the Wadiyar dynasty, who ruled this kingdom for over 500 years. The current structure, built between 1897 and 1912 after the old wooden palace burned down, was designed by British architect Henry Irwin. His Indo-Saracenic design — a fusion of Hindu, Muslim, Rajput, and Gothic influences — gives the building a unique identity. With its marble domes, pointed arches, and ornamental towers, it seems to belong both to India and to the wider world.
Spread over 72 acres, the palace complex is immense. The main structure, a three-storey building of grey granite and pink marble domes, rises to a five-storey central tower reaching 145 feet high. Around it are sweeping courtyards, shaded gardens, and smaller buildings that once housed royal stables, temples, and staff quarters. Inside, the palace unfolds like a treasure chest — filled with gilded halls, chandeliers, carved doors, and painted ceilings. Each room seems to tell its own story of royal power and artistic skill.
🎨 Inside the Palace – Stories in Wood, Glass, and Stone
Before entering, we removed our shoes and handed them in at the shoe counter, as shoes are not permitted inside. Our guide, Suresh, led us through the grand entrance, where the first stop was the Gombe Thotti or Doll Pavilion. This charming hall displays a remarkable collection of traditional dolls and ceremonial items that once belonged to the royal family. Some are over a century old, representing deities, animals, and scenes from mythology. The craftsmanship is exquisite — figures made of wood, metal, and clay, many painted in bright, natural colours. Alongside the dolls are antique chairs, musical instruments, and intricately designed weapons once used during processions and celebrations. It feels like stepping back into a time when ceremony and artistry were inseparable.
From there, we moved into the Kalyana Mantapa, or Marriage Hall, one of the most breathtaking spaces in the palace. Used for royal weddings, it features a stained-glass ceiling in a kaleidoscope of colours, arranged in floral patterns that shimmer in the sunlight. The cast-iron pillars rise gracefully to support this glass canopy, while the tiled floor below mirrors the colours above with its peacock mosaics — symbols of beauty and grace in Indian culture. The whole room glows with an almost dreamlike quality, enhanced by the surrounding paintings that depict royal ceremonies, battles, and parades from the golden age of the Wadiyars.
👑 Halls of Power – Diwan-i-Aam and Diwan-i-Khas
Next, we climbed a staircase that led to the Diwan-i-Aam, or Public Durbar Hall. This was once the main space where the maharaja addressed his subjects, met petitioners, and held public events. The vast hall is lined with tall, decorated pillars painted in soft greens and golds, with detailed carvings and delicate patterns. The ceiling above is high and arched, painted in elaborate designs that gleam under natural light from the tall arched windows. Standing here, you can almost imagine the sounds of the royal court — the rustle of silk, the echo of footsteps, and the soft murmur of voices rising toward the king’s throne.
Adjoining this is the Diwan-i-Khas, or Private Durbar Hall, where the ruler held meetings with ministers and important guests. This hall is more intimate but even more opulent. Tall wooden columns with gold embellishments support a richly decorated ceiling, painted in vibrant reds, blues, and greens. The stained-glass windows filter the sunlight into soft patterns across the floor. The room radiates authority and elegance, a reminder of how seriously the Mysore kings treated governance and ceremony alike.
Everywhere we looked, one detail stood out — the palace doors. Crafted from solid teakwood, many are inlaid with ivory or carved into complex floral and mythological designs. Each door feels like a masterpiece of its own, revealing the skill of the artisans who worked under royal patronage.
🌇 Around the Palace and Beyond
After finishing our tour, we stepped back outside, collected our shoes, and wandered around the palace exterior, admiring its domes and turrets against the blue Mysore sky. The building is at its most magical during the evenings, when 95,000 bulbs illuminate the façade. Sadly, we were not there at night to see it illuminated, but even in daylight, the structure glowed with a quiet grandeur.
Our itinerary had included a visit to the Mysore Zoo, but it was Tuesday — its weekly closure day. We were not disappointed. Instead, we decided to explore one of Mysore’s sacred landmarks — the Nandi Statue on Chamundi Hill.
🐂 The Nandi Statue – Guardian of Chamundi Hill
Halfway up the winding road to Chamundi Temple sits one of India’s largest Nandi statues, carved entirely from a single piece of black granite. Measuring around 4.9 metres long and 3.7 metres high, this serene bull represents Nandi, the devoted companion and mount of Lord Shiva. The craftsmanship is remarkable — the stone seems to breathe with calm energy, its smooth curves adorned with carved ropes, bells, and ornaments that show the sculptor’s precision.
This sacred statue dates back several centuries and holds deep religious importance. Pilgrims climbing the 1,000 steps to Chamundeshwari Temple often stop here to rest and offer prayers. The view from this point is stunning — the city of Mysore spreading out below, dotted with red roofs, green parks, and the distant white shimmer of palaces. The atmosphere is peaceful, filled with birdsong and the faint ringing of temple bells from higher up the hill.
🏨 The Lalitha Mahal Palace – A Touch of Colonial Elegance
From Chamundi Hill, a glimmer of white in the distance caught our attention. It was the Lalitha Mahal Palace, now a heritage hotel. Built in 1921 by Maharaja Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV for the Viceroy of India, it was designed in the style of a British country palace — all grand columns, sweeping staircases, and shining marble floors. The architectural blend of Renaissance and Indo-Saracenic styles gives it a distinct charm, with high domes, elegant balconies, and manicured lawns.
We paid a small fee to enter, which included tea or coffee in the café. The palace looks magnificent from the outside, gleaming white in the sunlight, with domes that faintly echo the Taj Mahal. Inside, however, it showed its age. The lobby felt slightly faded, though the dining room still carried the glory of another age with its high ceilings and ornate chandeliers. Our tea was served from a large urn, the biscuits handed out straight from the packet — certainly not the afternoon tea of royal days gone by. Still, the experience of walking through such a historic space was well worth it.
🧵 Silk, Scents, and the Streets of Mysore
As we drove back through the city, Mysore’s colonial charm unfolded along the roads. Wide avenues were lined with stately villas — the old bungalows once home to British officers and now occupied by government officials. Our final stop of the day was a silk shop, a reminder that Mysore is still renowned for its silk sarees. The shop was clearly one aimed at tourists, with eager salesmen and shelves filled with bright fabrics. Karen found a lovely scarf, only for it to be snatched from her hands by an overenthusiastic American visitor. Meanwhile, I sat quietly on a wooden chair beside the equally bored guides until we could politely make our exit.
🌺 Final Thoughts
Mysore is a city that lingers in the memory. From the glittering grandeur of the palace to the spiritual calm of Chamundi Hill, it offers a glimpse into a past where art, faith, and royalty lived side by side. Even amid the bustle of modern traffic and markets, the echoes of the Wadiyars’ legacy can still be felt. It is a city that balances splendour and simplicity, and one that makes you slow down and take it all in — step by step, hall by hall, and smile by smile.
Planning your visit to Mysore
📍 Location
Mysore, officially known as Mysuru, lies in the southern part of Karnataka, around 145 kilometres southwest of Bengaluru. It sits at the base of the Chamundi Hills and is often called the ‘City of Palaces’ for its grand royal heritage and stately architecture. The city’s charm lies in its slow pace, leafy boulevards, and the harmonious blend of old-world elegance with modern convenience. Whether you are drawn to its royal history, vibrant markets, or spiritual sites, Mysore offers a calm yet captivating experience for travellers exploring southern India.
🚗 How to Get There
Reaching Mysore is straightforward, thanks to its good connections by road, rail, and air. The nearest major airport is Kempegowda International Airport in Bengaluru, which serves both domestic and international flights. From Bengaluru, Mysore is about a three-hour drive along a well-maintained highway, with regular bus and taxi services operating throughout the day. There is also a small domestic airport in Mysore with limited regional flights.
For those preferring the train, Mysore Junction is a key railway hub linking the city to many parts of India. Several express trains from Bengaluru, Chennai, and other nearby cities run daily and offer a comfortable and scenic journey through the Karnataka countryside.
The best time to visit Southern India
🌞 The Best Time to Visit Southern India
Southern India offers a rich tapestry of landscapes — from the misty hill stations of Kerala and Tamil Nadu to the sun-drenched beaches of Goa and Karnataka. Its tropical climate means it can be visited year-round, but the experience varies dramatically with the seasons. Understanding how the weather shifts across the year helps you plan your travels for comfort and adventure alike.
🌼 Winter (November to February) – The Peak Season
Winter is the most pleasant and popular time to visit Southern India. During these months, temperatures are comfortably mild, ranging from 20°C to 30°C across most regions. The air is crisp in the mornings, especially in the Western Ghats and hill stations like Munnar, Coorg, and Ooty, where nights can dip below 15°C. Coastal areas such as Kochi, Chennai, and Goa remain warm but not sweltering, perfect for sightseeing, temple visits, or long days by the sea.
Festivals such as Pongal, Christmas, and the Kerala Boat Races add colour and cultural charm to the season. This is also an excellent time for exploring the wildlife sanctuaries, trekking through spice plantations, or taking houseboat cruises on Kerala’s serene backwaters.
🧳 What to Pack: Light cotton clothes for the day, a light jumper or shawl for cooler evenings, sunhat, sunglasses, comfortable walking shoes, and mosquito repellent.
🌸 Summer (March to May) – Hot but Rewarding
Summer in Southern India can be intense, particularly in coastal and inland cities like Chennai, Hyderabad, and Madurai, where temperatures often exceed 35°C. However, this season has its own appeal. The hill stations are at their most inviting, offering cool retreats surrounded by lush tea estates and cascading waterfalls. It’s also a quieter time for travel, meaning fewer crowds and better deals on accommodation.
Early mornings and evenings are the best times for sightseeing, while afternoons are ideal for leisurely indoor pursuits such as visiting museums or sampling regional cuisine. If you plan to explore the Western Ghats, the air remains cooler and the landscapes are spectacularly green.
🧳 What to Pack: Very light cotton clothing, sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses), a reusable water bottle, and sandals or breathable shoes.
🌧️ Monsoon (June to October) – The Season of Refreshing Rains
The monsoon brings dramatic transformation to Southern India. Lush greenery spreads across the countryside, waterfalls roar back to life, and the air fills with the earthy scent of rain. Kerala and coastal Karnataka are especially beautiful during this time, although frequent downpours can disrupt travel plans. Temperatures remain between 25°C and 32°C, with high humidity levels.
This is also the season for rejuvenation and wellness. Many travellers come to Kerala for traditional Ayurvedic treatments, which are said to be most effective during the monsoon months. Photography lovers will find the region’s landscapes and skies truly captivating. However, road travel can sometimes be challenging due to heavy rainfall and flooding in low-lying areas.
🧳 What to Pack: Quick-dry clothing, a waterproof jacket or poncho, sandals with good grip, an umbrella, insect repellent, and a dry bag for electronics.
📊 Seasonal Summary Chart
| Season | Months | Weather | Highlights | Ideal For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌼 Winter | Nov – Feb | Pleasant (20–30°C) | Festivals, sightseeing, beaches, backwaters | All travellers |
| 🌸 Summer | Mar – May | Hot (30–40°C) | Quiet travel, hill stations, fewer crowds | Budget travellers, nature lovers |
| 🌧️ Monsoon | Jun – Oct | Wet & Humid (25–32°C) | Lush scenery, Ayurveda, photography | Wellness retreats, scenic travel |
🌴 Overall Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Southern India is from November to February, when the climate is at its most comfortable, the skies are clear, and every destination — from the beaches of Goa to the hills of Wayanad — is at its most enjoyable. You’ll experience vibrant festivals, easy travel conditions, and a balance of warmth and freshness that perfectly suits exploration. However, if you prefer solitude and lower prices, late summer or early monsoon (May to July) can also reveal a softer, more tranquil side of Southern India.
Where to stay in Mysore
1. Mid Range: Hotel Shine International
Hotel Shine International in Mysore offers a comfortable and modern stay that suits both leisure and business travellers visiting the city. Located in a convenient part of Mysore, the hotel provides easy access to many of the city’s major attractions, including the Mysore Palace, the bustling Devaraja Market, and the Chamundi Hills. The hotel itself has a clean, well-kept appearance with welcoming interiors and a calm atmosphere. Rooms are spacious and neatly furnished, equipped with air conditioning, flat-screen televisions, and private bathrooms with hot water, making it a pleasant base for exploring the city. Guests can enjoy a selection of local and international dishes at the in-house restaurant, while room service and 24-hour front desk assistance add to the overall convenience. The staff are known for being friendly and helpful, offering travel tips and arranging transport when needed. With its blend of good location, affordability, and reliable facilities, Hotel Shine International is a solid choice for anyone looking for a comfortable stay in the heart of Mysore.
2. Luxury – Southern Star
The Southern Star in Mysore is a well-known hotel that combines comfort, convenience, and a touch of old-world hospitality in the heart of the city. Located near the busy city centre and not far from major attractions such as Mysore Palace and the bustling Devaraja Market, it offers an ideal base for exploring the city’s royal and cultural heritage. The hotel is set amidst well-kept gardens with large trees that give it a peaceful atmosphere despite its central location. Inside, the décor is elegant yet understated, with polished wooden furniture, marble floors, and soft lighting that creates a calm and relaxed environment. The rooms are spacious, clean, and thoughtfully furnished, with modern amenities such as air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and flat-screen televisions. Guests can enjoy a good range of facilities, including an outdoor swimming pool, a fitness centre, and an in-house restaurant serving both Indian and international cuisine. The service is attentive without being intrusive, and the staff are known for their warmth and willingness to assist with travel arrangements or local recommendations. Whether visiting Mysore for sightseeing, business, or simply a quiet getaway, the Southern Star manages to balance comfort and affordability while retaining a sense of traditional Indian hospitality that makes a stay here memorable.
3. Budget – Mannars Residency
Mannars Residency in Mysore is a comfortable and conveniently located hotel that caters well to both leisure and business travellers seeking a pleasant stay in the heart of the city. Situated close to major attractions such as the Mysore Palace, Devaraja Market, and St Philomena’s Church, it offers easy access to many of the city’s highlights while maintaining a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. The hotel features clean and well-kept rooms in various categories, from budget options to more spacious family suites, each equipped with modern amenities such as air conditioning, flat-screen televisions, and complimentary Wi-Fi. The in-house vegetarian restaurant serves a range of South Indian and North Indian dishes, making dining easy and enjoyable without having to leave the premises. Guests often appreciate the helpful staff, efficient room service, and convenient facilities like ample parking and a travel desk that can assist with sightseeing plans or transport arrangements. Mannars Residency provides excellent value for money, combining practicality with comfort, and is a popular choice for visitors who prefer a straightforward stay within walking distance of Mysore’s bustling city centre.
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