The 9/11 Memorial & Museum in Lower Manhattan is a deeply moving tribute to the nearly 3000 lives lost on 11 September 2001 featuring twin reflecting pools etched with victims' names and immersive underground galleries honouring their stories and legacy.
Arizona: Petrified Forest National Park & Meteor Crater
🪨 Petrified Wood, Painted Deserts, and a Town Best Left Behind
We said goodbye to Holbrook, Arizona, and I’ll be honest — it wasn’t a tearful farewell. Holbrook had its moment in history, mind you. Back in the late 19th century it was a proper frontier town, the sort of place where cowboys drove cattle up the Hashknife outfit — one of the largest cattle operations in the American West — and where the local sheriff apparently spent more time dodging bullets than filing paperwork. The town sits on the old Route 66 corridor and had a genuine rough-and-ready wildness about it in its heyday. By 2018, though, what remained was a collection of motels, a Wigwam Village where you sleep inside a concrete teepee (which is either charming or deeply odd, depending on your outlook), and not a great deal else. We were ready to move on.
Fortunately, salvation was close at hand. Just a short drive to the east sits the Petrified Forest National Park, and if you happen to be travelling with children who are mad about rocks, minerals and fossils — which ours absolutely are — then this place is roughly equivalent to Disneyland, but considerably cheaper and with better geology.
Our first stop was the visitor centre, where we were treated to a talk by one of the park rangers. Now, ranger talks can sometimes feel like being back at school on a wet Thursday afternoon, but this one was genuinely excellent. She walked us through the formation of the petrified forest, which dates back to the late Triassic period — roughly 225 million years ago, give or take a Tuesday. At that time, what is now the arid American Southwest was a very different place altogether: a lush, tropical landscape sitting near the equator, crossed by vast river systems and populated by towering conifer trees, some reaching 60 metres in height. Dinosaurs were only just getting going. It was, by any measure, a more interesting time to be alive — assuming you could avoid being eaten, which seems optimistic.
What happened to those ancient trees is the rather remarkable story the ranger told us. When the trees fell — toppled by storms or floods or simple old age — many were carried away by those rampaging ancient rivers and deposited in flood plains, where they were rapidly buried under layers of sediment. Deprived of oxygen, they couldn’t rot in the usual way. Instead, silica-rich groundwater slowly percolated through the wood, molecule by molecule replacing the organic material with quartz and other minerals. Over millions of years, what had been wood became stone — petrified, from the Greek petra, meaning rock. The process took an almost incomprehensible amount of time, and the result is lying all around you.
After the talk, we followed the short trail outside the visitor centre, and this is where things got properly impressive. The fallen trunks of these ancient trees lie scattered across the landscape like the aftermath of some primordial logging accident. They are enormous — some sections a metre or more in diameter — and they are extraordinarily beautiful. The mineralisation process doesn’t just turn wood to stone; it creates a kaleidoscope of colours. Depending on which minerals were present during the process, you get deep reds from iron oxide, yellows and oranges from goethite, purples and blues from manganese, and brilliant whites from pure quartz. The cross-sections of the logs look like stained glass windows. The children were, predictably, beside themselves.
The national park itself is vast — far larger than you might expect. It covers nearly 350 square miles, and driving from the south entrance to the north entrance takes the better part of an hour even if you don’t stop, which of course you do, repeatedly, because there’s rather a lot to look at. En route, we pulled over at a couple of sites to examine some Pueblo ruins and petroglyphs. These were left by the ancestral Puebloan people, who lived in this area for centuries before European contact. The petroglyphs — images pecked and painted onto the rock surfaces — depict animals, human figures, and geometric patterns whose precise meaning has been largely lost to time, which is both fascinating and a little melancholy. Somebody went to considerable effort to put those images there, and we’ll never entirely know why.
At the northern end of the park, we took the Painted Desert loop road, which sweeps past a series of grand overlooks across the Painted Desert — a vast stretch of badlands and eroded hills that supposedly glow with extraordinary colours in the right light. The landscape had been laid down during that same Triassic period, layer upon layer of sediment in different mineral compositions, and erosion has gradually exposed the whole lot like a geological layer cake. Spectacular in theory. In practice, the weather was thoroughly uncooperative — overcast and flat — and we’d arrived at entirely the wrong time of day. The colours are at their most vivid in the early morning or late afternoon, when the low sun rakes across the landscape and brings out the reds, pinks, purples and ochres. At midday under grey cloud, it looked, if I’m being unkind, a bit beige. We did our best to picture the splendour we were clearly missing, nodded appreciatively at the view, and agreed it was time to press on.
It was, all in all, a brilliant stop — particularly for the children, who left considerably more knowledgeable about Triassic geology than most adults I know.
Petrified Forest National Park — Practical Information
- Location: Highway 180 (south entrance) and Interstate 40 (north entrance), near Holbrook, Arizona, AZ 86028, USA
- Website: www.nps.gov/pefo
- Phone: +1 (928) 524-6228
- Operating Hours: Generally open daily 8:00am–5:00pm (hours vary seasonally; check the website before visiting)
- Entry Fees: $25 per vehicle (valid for 7 days); $15 per person on foot or bicycle; free with America the Beautiful / National Parks Pass
💥 Meteor Crater — When the Universe Decided to Make a Point
We set off across the flat and thoroughly tedious high desert plains of northern Arizona, which stretch on in every direction with the kind of relentless, featureless monotony that makes you question your life choices. One of the fundamental problems with flat plains — and there are several — is that there is absolutely nothing to slow the wind down. No hills, no trees, no convenient large buildings. Just mile after mile of scrubby high desert doing precisely nothing to protect a relatively lightweight, high-sided vehicle. Oh yes — like a motorhome. Our motorhome, to be specific.
Well, as chance would have it, a strong and thoroughly unhelpful gusty wind kicked up across the desert during the afternoon, throwing up a decent-sized dust storm for good measure. Because why not. Of more immediate concern was the impact of strong side-on gusts as we drove down the road — the kind that grab the vehicle and suggest, quite firmly, that you might prefer to be in a different lane. And to add insult to injury, the wind direction was causing our furled-up awning to lift and crash repeatedly against the side of the motorhome with a noise somewhere between a gunshot and a thunderclap. Loudly. Very loudly. Not being someone who is normally of a timid disposition behind the wheel, I was genuinely struggling to hold a steady course. This was not what we’d signed up for.
We decided to pull off at the signs for Meteor Crater Natural Landmark — there were services there, which seemed like a reasonable excuse. As we approached, we rolled over a cattle grid, which promptly triggered the remote brakes on our tow-behind Jeep. We took this as a fairly unambiguous message from the Almighty to cut our losses and stop for the night. As luck would have it — and luck was clearly feeling generous — there was an RV park right alongside the service station. We pulled in, hooked up, and breathed out. Deeply.
The thing is, we’d always intended to stop at Meteor Crater anyway. Providence, it seemed, had simply taken the matter out of our hands and sorted it for us. Although it was getting late in the day, we still had a good hour of light left, so we drove up to the visitor centre to have a look at one of the most extraordinary natural features in North America.
The approach through the flat desert is deceptively dramatic. The crater’s rim rises a full 150 feet above the surrounding plain, visible from miles away — a great circular bulge of rock appearing on the horizon like something very large and very angry happened here a long time ago. And indeed it did.
The crater was formed approximately 50,000 years ago during the Pleistocene epoch — a period when woolly mammoths were still wandering about and humans hadn’t yet got around to making things complicated. A nickel-iron meteorite, roughly 150 feet across and weighing around 300,000 metric tonnes, came hurtling in at approximately 30,000 miles per hour. To put that in some kind of perspective, a commercial airliner cruises at around 575 miles per hour. This thing was travelling more than fifty times faster. The resulting impact was catastrophic — an explosion equivalent to at least 2.5 megatons of TNT, roughly 150 times the combined yield of the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in August 1945. The explosion excavated an estimated 175 million tons of rock, leaving behind a crater 4,000 feet in diameter and 570 feet deep. The surrounding landscape was instantly and comprehensively rearranged.
Standing at the edge, staring down into that vast circular bowl, it’s genuinely difficult to get your head around the scale of it. What it would have been like to be standing anywhere nearby at the moment of impact is, frankly, not worth thinking about. Probably unpleasant is the polite way of putting it.
The same wind that had herded us here had also put paid to the guided rim walks — health and safety apparently taking a dim view of tourists being blown into a 570-foot hole. We were, however, able to step out onto the viewing decks and stare down into the crater from a perfectly safe distance, which seemed like a reasonable compromise.
Inside the visitor centre, we watched a short film about the crater’s formation and history, and listened to one of the staff deliver a talk around a large and impressively hefty chunk of nickel-iron meteorite recovered from a dry wash some distance away. The museum exhibits looked genuinely interesting. We didn’t see them, of course — it was late, and the gift shop was calling. It always is.
📍 Meteor Crater Natural Landmark — Visitor Information
- Location: Meteor Crater Road, Winslow, Arizona 86047, USA (approximately 37 miles east of Flagstaff, off Interstate 40 at Exit 233)
- Website: meteorcrater.com
- Phone: +1 (928) 289-5898
- Operating Hours: Open daily. Summer hours (May–September) approximately 7:00 am – 7:00 pm; winter hours (October–April) approximately 8:00 am – 5:00 pm. Hours may vary — check the website before visiting.
- Entry Fees: Adults (13+) approximately $22; seniors (60+) approximately $20; children (6–12) approximately $13; children under 6 free. Prices subject to change.
- RV/Camping: Meteor Crater RV Park is located adjacent to the visitor centre services area and offers full hook-ups.
Best time to visit Arizona
🌸 Spring — March to May
Spring is widely regarded as one of the finest times to visit Arizona. Temperatures are warm and welcoming rather than punishing, ranging from around 18°C in March to the low 30s by late May. The desert bursts into extraordinary colour as wildflowers carpet the Sonoran Desert floor — saguaro cacti bloom their creamy-white flowers, and the hillsides around Phoenix and Tucson shimmer with Mexican poppies, lupins, and brittlebush. The famous Antelope Canyon in Page is beautifully lit in spring, and the Grand Canyon’s South Rim is at its most accessible and photogenic.
Crowds are moderate rather than overwhelming, making it an excellent time to visit popular national parks such as the Grand Canyon, Sedona, and Saguaro. Accommodation prices sit in the mid-range — higher than summer but without the peak winter surcharges. Spring is ideal for hikers, as trails that would be treacherous in summer heat are comfortably walkable, especially early in the morning.
What to pack: Lightweight layers for cool mornings and evenings, breathable shirts and trousers for daytime warmth, a light waterproof jacket, sturdy walking boots, sun hat, high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a reusable water bottle. Allergy sufferers should bring antihistamines, as pollen levels are high.
☀️ Summer — June to August
Summer in Arizona is not for the faint-hearted. Temperatures across the lower desert regularly exceed 40°C, and Phoenix frequently records temperatures above 43°C for days at a stretch. However, summer has its own dramatic reward: the monsoon season, which typically arrives in July and runs through September. Towering storm cells roll across the desert skies each afternoon and evening, bringing spectacular lightning displays, dramatic dust storms known locally as haboobs, and short but intense downpours that transform dry riverbeds into rushing torrents.
Because of the heat, many domestic visitors stay away, meaning crowd levels at resorts and lower-elevation attractions drop considerably. Hotels slash their rates, and many upscale resorts in Scottsdale and Phoenix offer remarkable value. Those who want to escape the worst of the heat can head to higher elevations — Flagstaff sits at 2,100 metres and remains pleasant throughout summer, rarely exceeding 26°C. The ponderosa pine forests of the White Mountains offer cool hiking and stargazing well away from the desert floor.
What to pack: Ultra-lightweight, moisture-wicking clothing in light colours, a wide-brimmed hat, SPF 50+ sunscreen, insulated water bottle, electrolyte tablets or drinks, a light rain layer for afternoon monsoon storms, and sandals suitable for wet ground. Sunglasses with UV protection are essential. Avoid dark-coloured clothing.
🍂 Autumn — September to November
Autumn brings welcome relief as temperatures gradually ease from the summer extremes. By October, Phoenix and Tucson are in the comfortable 25–30°C range, and the southern deserts are delightful once more. The monsoon season wraps up in September, leaving the air fresh and the desert vegetation lush and green — a surprisingly verdant sight against the red rocks.
Sedona in autumn is particularly stunning, as the cottonwood trees along Oak Creek turn gold and amber, contrasting brilliantly with the famous red sandstone formations. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim sees good conditions, and the North Rim, which closes in mid-November, is at its most atmospheric in October. Festivals return to the calendar — the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, the Sedona Arts Festival, and various harvest-themed events in Flagstaff make autumn culturally rewarding as well.
Crowd levels begin to build towards November as winter visitors from colder US states and Canada start to arrive. Prices rise accordingly, though the overall experience is excellent value compared to peak winter season.
What to pack: Light daytime clothing, but with a fleece or mid-layer for evenings, especially at altitude. Comfortable walking shoes or trail runners, a light rain jacket (residual monsoon possible in September), sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sun hat. Pack warmer layers if visiting Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon’s North Rim.
❄️ Winter — December to February
Winter divides Arizona neatly into two very different experiences depending on elevation. The low desert — Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tucson, and the southern reaches of the state — enjoys mild, sunny days between 15°C and 20°C, making it extraordinarily appealing to visitors fleeing cold climates. This is peak season for the so-called “snowbirds,” retirees and holidaymakers from Canada and the northern United States who descend in large numbers to play golf, hike, and simply sit in the sunshine.
The crowds and costs reflect this popularity. Hotel rates in the Phoenix metro and Tucson are at their annual peak, and popular restaurants and resorts require advance booking. The upside is that the air is crystal-clear, the light is magnificent for photography, and outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and hot-air ballooning are extremely comfortable.
Meanwhile, the higher reaches of Arizona transform entirely. Flagstaff and the White Mountains receive significant snowfall, offering skiing and snowboarding at Arizona Snowbowl and Sunrise Park Resort. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim wears a dusting of snow and sees far fewer visitors than in any other season, offering a hauntingly beautiful and unusually peaceful experience.
What to pack: For low desert destinations — light daytime clothing, a fleece or light jacket for evenings, comfortable shoes, and sunscreen (the winter sun is still strong). For Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon — a proper warm coat, thermals, waterproof boots, hat, gloves, and warm layers. Always pack sunscreen regardless of season.
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
If there is a single season that earns the title of the best time to visit Arizona, it is spring — particularly March and April. The desert is alive with wildflowers, temperatures are warm without being dangerous, trails are accessible, and the dramatic landscapes of Sedona, the Grand Canyon, and Monument Valley are at their most photogenic. Crowds exist but have not yet reached their summer lows or winter peaks, and accommodation remains reasonably priced. Autumn runs a close second, especially October, which offers near-perfect conditions and a lush post-monsoon desert. The ideal approach for those with flexibility is to plan around the shoulder periods of late March to early May or mid-September to early November, securing the best combination of comfortable weather, manageable crowds, and excellent value.
Where to stay
1. Little America Hotel Flagstaff
Little America Hotel sits just off Interstate 40 on 500 acres of ponderosa pine forest, making it something of an oddity for a roadside hotel — the grounds feel more like a nature reserve than a car park. The 247 rooms are spacious by American hotel standards, with floor-to-ceiling windows, marble bathrooms and separate dressing areas. Several room types are available, from standard kings and queens through to apartment suites with full kitchens and fireplace suites. On-site facilities include a seasonal outdoor pool, hot tub, hiking trails through the pines, an on-site restaurant and bar, a gift shop, and a convenience store. A complimentary airport shuttle runs during limited hours. The hotel ranks consistently near the top of Flagstaff’s accommodation options and works well as a base for day trips to the Grand Canyon, Sedona, Route 66 and the Arizona Snowbowl ski resort. It suits families, couples and groups equally well.
2. England House B&B
3. 303 BnB Inn Flagstaff
Situated at 303 West Juniper Avenue in Flagstaff’s NOHO District, the 303 BnB Inn is a family-owned bed and breakfast in a remodelled house a short distance from historic downtown. It offers four private guest suites, each with an ensuite bathroom, air conditioning, flat-screen TV, kitchenette, and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is served each morning and includes options for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free diets, alongside pancakes and fresh pastries. Communal facilities are generous for a property this size: guests have access to a games room with a 70-inch TV, shuffleboard, board games, and a vintage arcade console, as well as a fitness room, covered outdoor decking, and a complimentary coffee and tea station. The inn is run hands-on by its owner, Kim, who receives consistent praise in guest reviews for her attentiveness. Lowell Observatory is about 2.5 miles away, and Arizona Snowbowl is around 13 miles out. Nightly rates start at roughly $97.
More to Explore
