Monument Valley is a sacred Navajo landscape in Arizona famed for its towering red sandstone buttes, breathtaking desert vistas, and starring role in Hollywood's greatest Westerns.
Arizona: Arcosanti – a social project
🏜️ Arcosanti — The Desert Utopia That Nearly Was
We were still rolling across America’s South West, somewhere between optimism and heat exhaustion, when we decided to make a detour to a place called Arcosanti. It sits in the high desert of Arizona, about 70 miles north of Phoenix, and it is, depending on your point of view, either a visionary triumph or a very ambitious building site that’s been going since 1970 and isn’t finished yet.
The man behind it all was Paolo Soleri, an Italian architect and artist who emigrated to the United States and eventually set up camp — quite literally — in the Arizona desert. Soleri had studied under the legendary Frank Lloyd Wright in the late 1940s at Taliesin West, which gave him a solid grounding in the idea that architecture and landscape ought to have a conversation rather than a fight. What he went on to develop, however, was something altogether more radical.
His core belief was simple enough: the way most of us live — spread out across vast suburbs, burning through energy, clogging roads, gobbling up land — is unsustainable. This was not a popular view in post-war America, where the general mood was that resources were essentially infinite and a man’s God-given right was a large house, a large car, and a large refrigerator. Soleri, being Italian and therefore constitutionally incapable of going along with something he considered daft, disagreed.
His alternative was what he called “arcology” — a portmanteau of architecture and ecology — a concept built around high-density living, efficient movement of people and resources, multi-use buildings, and clever solar orientation for heating, cooling and light. Today, you’d find these ideas cropping up in any half-decent sustainability conference or urban planning document. Back in the 1960s, they made you sound like you’d had a funny turn.
Frustrated by the lack of interest from governments or developers, Soleri took matters into his own hands. In 1970, he launched a privately funded project — Arcosanti — with the goal of eventually housing 5,000 people across 25 acres of a 4,060-acre land preserve in Yavapai County. It was an enormously ambitious plan, and the fact that it’s been under construction for more than fifty years and currently houses fewer than 100 people does rather suggest that things have not gone entirely to schedule.
We took the basic tour — there are more detailed architectural tours available if you’re the sort of person who gets excited about load-bearing structures, which is admirable but not quite us. What struck us almost immediately was that the place could do with a bit of attention. Some TLC, as they say. Not a ruin, exactly, but definitely somewhere between “work in progress” and “well-intentioned shambles.”
The main source of income for Arcosanti comes from manufacturing and selling bronze and ceramic bells designed by Soleri himself, a tradition that continues to this day. We were lucky enough to arrive just as a small team was pouring molten brass into moulds — all done by hand, all done with what seemed like a cheerful disregard for health and safety protocols. Entirely fascinating. The communal areas were well thought-out and genuinely pleasant. The residents, we noticed, were mostly young, mostly enthusiastic, and — there is no kind way to say this — mostly hippies. Whether this is what Soleri had in mind when he dreamed of his desert city is debatable. What is rather touching is that he himself continued visiting Arcosanti almost daily right up until his death in April 2013, at the age of 93. Whatever you think of the project, you cannot fault the man’s commitment.
After the tour, we headed into the cafeteria for a buffet lunch that was genuinely good — healthy, fresh, and rather better than you’d expect from a half-built commune in the middle of the desert. Small mercies.
Arcosanti is a curious place. It is idealistic in the best possible sense, a real attempt to put a big idea into practice rather than just writing about it in a magazine. It is a shame that funding has always been so hard to come by — though perhaps that’s what happens when your pitch is essentially “let’s rethink everything.” We left wondering what becomes of it now that its founding visionary is gone. Though, if we’re honest, we also left wondering whether we might one day come back — not as visitors, but as residents. Don’t tell anyone we said that.
Planning your visit to Arcosanti
📍 About Arcosanti
Nestled in the high desert of central Arizona, Arcosanti is one of the most extraordinary architectural experiments in the world. Founded in 1970 by the visionary Italian architect Paolo Soleri, it was conceived as a prototype for a new kind of city — one in which architecture and ecology work together rather than against each other. Soleri called this concept “arcology”, a fusion of architecture and ecology, and Arcosanti remains the world’s first and only attempt to build it at scale.
Rising from a mesa overlooking the Agua Fria River canyon, the site’s dramatic concrete structures — curved vaults, apses, and open-air amphitheatres — were built largely by hand over decades by volunteers, students, and residents. Today Arcosanti is both a living community and a visitor destination, welcoming tens of thousands of guests each year who come to explore its iconic buildings, learn about sustainable design, and witness artisans at work in the bronze foundry and ceramics studio.
Operated by the non-profit Cosanti Foundation, Arcosanti continues to function as an urban laboratory — a place where the question of how human beings might live more lightly on the earth is explored through daily life, craft, education, and community.
🏛️ What to See and Do
The site is remarkable in that its buildings are not merely observed but inhabited. Guided tours led by residents take visitors through the silt-cast and form-cast concrete structures, offering insight into how the architecture was built and the philosophy behind it. On weekday tours, visitors can watch artisans casting bronze bells in the foundry and shaping ceramics in the ceramics studio — a process that has been central to Arcosanti’s identity and funding since the beginning.
The world-renowned Cosanti Windbells, handcrafted on site, are available to browse and buy in the gallery and gift shop inside the Visitor Centre. Each bell is unique, individually hand-carved, and reflects the silt-casting techniques that define Arcosanti’s architecture. Purchasing a bell directly supports the Cosanti Foundation’s mission.
Day visitors who do not take a guided tour may freely explore the Visitor Centre, gallery, gift shop, and café area. However, access to the wider grounds and buildings is restricted to those on a guided tour. Self-guided exploration of the architectural areas is not permitted.
For those wishing for a more immersive experience, overnight accommodation is available in a small number of guest rooms, including Paolo Soleri’s former living quarters (the Sun Suite, which still contains his original drafting table and artwork) and the recently renovated Sky Suite, which features canyon views, a kitchen, and outdoor patio. Overnight guests have freedom to explore the site independently, use the swimming pool, access additional hiking trails, and stargaze — on a clear, moonless night the Milky Way is clearly visible with the naked eye.
Arcosanti also hosts workshops, events, and performances in its amphitheatre throughout the year.
🥾 Hiking
Well-maintained hiking trails run through the surrounding 860-plus acres of high desert landscape. Day visitors are permitted on the Visitor’s Trail only. Overnight guests have access to additional trails including the Valletta Loop, Mind’s Garden, and Tomiaki Trails. All visitors are advised to carry adequate water, wear appropriate footwear, and be mindful of the terrain and desert wildlife. Hiking is undertaken at your own risk.
🗓️ Opening Times
The Visitor Centre is open Thursday to Monday, 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. It is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Guided tours run Thursday to Monday at 9:30 a.m., 11:00 a.m., and 2:00 p.m.
Arcosanti is closed on the following public holidays: New Year’s Day, Martin Luther King Jr. Day, Easter, Juneteenth, Independence Day, Veterans Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day. The site also closes early at 1:00 p.m. on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve.
The gallery and gift shop are open seven days a week, though they close on New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day.
🎟️ Entry Fees
Visiting the Visitor Centre, gallery, gift shop, and café area is free of charge.
A guided tour costs $22 per person and lasts approximately 60 to 90 minutes.
Specialist tours — including the Architectural Tour (led by long-term Paolo Soleri assistant Tomiaki Tamura), the Archives Tour, and the Sustainability Tour — are available at higher prices and require advance booking. The Architectural Tour runs every other Saturday; other specialist tours are offered periodically throughout the year. For current pricing and availability, check the tours page on the official website.
Advance reservations for all tours are strongly recommended, as capacity is limited. Walk-in visitors are accommodated where possible.
For overnight stays, room rates range from approximately $106 to $250 per night depending on the room. A $25 surcharge applies to same-day bookings. Reservations are required and must be made at least 24 hours in advance.
🚗 Getting There
Arcosanti is located at 13555 S Cross L Road, Mayer, AZ 86333. It sits just off Interstate 17 at exit 262, approximately one hour’s drive north of Phoenix, and a similar distance from Flagstaff, Prescott, and Sedona.
The final stretch of road into the site is approximately 1.5 to 2 miles of unpaved gravel road. It is manageable in a standard car if driven slowly, though an SUV or similar vehicle is more comfortable. There is no public transport to the site; a car is essentially required.
Please note that the Visitor Centre is situated several floors up within the main building complex and there is no lift. Visitors with mobility concerns are advised to contact the site in advance. The Architectural Tour specifically involves narrow pathways, steps, and uneven surfaces and is not ADA-accessible; the Daily and Archives tours are better suited to those with mobility needs.
🌐 Website
📞 Telephone
(928) 632-713
✉️ Email
For tour enquiries: Tours@arcosanti.org
ℹ️ Practical Notes
Visitors are required to sign a Release Form before taking any guided tour. All tours are led by community residents, giving them a genuinely personal and knowledgeable character that is quite unlike a typical heritage site visit.
Photography and video for personal use is permitted throughout the site. Commercial photography or videography requires prior approval from Arcosanti. Drone footage also requires prior approval.
As Arcosanti is a working community and the home of its residents, visitors are asked to be respectful of the people who live and work there.
The Best Time to Visit Arizona
🌸 Spring — March to May
Spring is widely regarded as one of the finest times to visit Arizona. Temperatures are warm and welcoming rather than punishing, ranging from around 18°C in March to the low 30s by late May. The desert bursts into extraordinary colour as wildflowers carpet the Sonoran Desert floor — saguaro cacti bloom their creamy-white flowers, and the hillsides around Phoenix and Tucson shimmer with Mexican poppies, lupins, and brittlebush. The famous Antelope Canyon in Page is beautifully lit in spring, and the Grand Canyon’s South Rim is at its most accessible and photogenic.
Crowds are moderate rather than overwhelming, making it an excellent time to visit popular national parks such as the Grand Canyon, Sedona, and Saguaro. Accommodation prices sit in the mid-range — higher than summer but without the peak winter surcharges. Spring is ideal for hikers, as trails that would be treacherous in summer heat are comfortably walkable, especially early in the morning.
What to pack: Lightweight layers for cool mornings and evenings, breathable shirts and trousers for daytime warmth, a light waterproof jacket, sturdy walking boots, sun hat, high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a reusable water bottle. Allergy sufferers should bring antihistamines, as pollen levels are high.
☀️ Summer — June to August
Summer in Arizona is not for the faint-hearted. Temperatures across the lower desert regularly exceed 40°C, and Phoenix frequently records temperatures above 43°C for days at a stretch. However, summer has its own dramatic reward: the monsoon season, which typically arrives in July and runs through September. Towering storm cells roll across the desert skies each afternoon and evening, bringing spectacular lightning displays, dramatic dust storms known locally as haboobs, and short but intense downpours that transform dry riverbeds into rushing torrents.
Because of the heat, many domestic visitors stay away, meaning crowd levels at resorts and lower-elevation attractions drop considerably. Hotels slash their rates, and many upscale resorts in Scottsdale and Phoenix offer remarkable value. Those who want to escape the worst of the heat can head to higher elevations — Flagstaff sits at 2,100 metres and remains pleasant throughout summer, rarely exceeding 26°C. The ponderosa pine forests of the White Mountains offer cool hiking and stargazing well away from the desert floor.
What to pack: Ultra-lightweight, moisture-wicking clothing in light colours, a wide-brimmed hat, SPF 50+ sunscreen, insulated water bottle, electrolyte tablets or drinks, a light rain layer for afternoon monsoon storms, and sandals suitable for wet ground. Sunglasses with UV protection are essential. Avoid dark-coloured clothing.
🍂 Autumn — September to November
Autumn brings welcome relief as temperatures gradually ease from the summer extremes. By October, Phoenix and Tucson are in the comfortable 25–30°C range, and the southern deserts are delightful once more. The monsoon season wraps up in September, leaving the air fresh and the desert vegetation lush and green — a surprisingly verdant sight against the red rocks.
Sedona in autumn is particularly stunning, as the cottonwood trees along Oak Creek turn gold and amber, contrasting brilliantly with the famous red sandstone formations. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim sees good conditions, and the North Rim, which closes in mid-November, is at its most atmospheric in October. Festivals return to the calendar — the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, the Sedona Arts Festival, and various harvest-themed events in Flagstaff make autumn culturally rewarding as well.
Crowd levels begin to build towards November as winter visitors from colder US states and Canada start to arrive. Prices rise accordingly, though the overall experience is excellent value compared to peak winter season.
What to pack: Light daytime clothing, but with a fleece or mid-layer for evenings, especially at altitude. Comfortable walking shoes or trail runners, a light rain jacket (residual monsoon possible in September), sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sun hat. Pack warmer layers if visiting Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon’s North Rim.
❄️ Winter — December to February
Winter divides Arizona neatly into two very different experiences depending on elevation. The low desert — Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tucson, and the southern reaches of the state — enjoys mild, sunny days between 15°C and 20°C, making it extraordinarily appealing to visitors fleeing cold climates. This is peak season for the so-called “snowbirds,” retirees and holidaymakers from Canada and the northern United States who descend in large numbers to play golf, hike, and simply sit in the sunshine.
The crowds and costs reflect this popularity. Hotel rates in the Phoenix metro and Tucson are at their annual peak, and popular restaurants and resorts require advance booking. The upside is that the air is crystal-clear, the light is magnificent for photography, and outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and hot-air ballooning are extremely comfortable.
Meanwhile, the higher reaches of Arizona transform entirely. Flagstaff and the White Mountains receive significant snowfall, offering skiing and snowboarding at Arizona Snowbowl and Sunrise Park Resort. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim wears a dusting of snow and sees far fewer visitors than in any other season, offering a hauntingly beautiful and unusually peaceful experience.
What to pack: For low desert destinations — light daytime clothing, a fleece or light jacket for evenings, comfortable shoes, and sunscreen (the winter sun is still strong). For Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon — a proper warm coat, thermals,
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
If there is a single season that earns the title of the best time to visit Arizona, it is spring — particularly March and April. The desert is alive with wildflowers, temperatures are warm without being dangerous, trails are accessible, and the dramatic landscapes of Sedona, the Grand Canyon, and Monument Valley are at their most photogenic. Crowds exist but have not yet reached their summer lows or winter peaks, and accommodation remains reasonably priced. Autumn runs a close second, especially October, which offers near-perfect conditions and a lush post-monsoon desert. The ideal approach for those with flexibility is to plan around the shoulder periods of late March to early May or mid-September to early November, securing the best combination of comfortable weather, manageable crowds, and excellent value.
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