The 9/11 Memorial & Museum in Lower Manhattan is a deeply moving tribute to the nearly 3000 lives lost on 11 September 2001 featuring twin reflecting pools etched with victims' names and immersive underground galleries honouring their stories and legacy.
Arizona: Flagstaff & Sunset Crater
🌋 From Meteor Craters to Flagstaff — Wind, Volcanic Mayhem and a Dirt Road That Nearly Shook Us to Bits
One of the genuinely alarming things about travelling in a large motorhome is the wind. Not the gentle English kind that ruffles your hair on a summer walk — the brutal, spine-tingling sort that grabs a forty-foot vehicle by the flanks and tries to redistribute it into the next lane. Crossing northern Arizona, there is precious little to break these winds. The landscape is vast, flat and completely indifferent to your situation. The previous day had been so alarmingly hairy — gusts battering us sideways as we gripped our seats — that we’d pulled into an RV park simply to escape what felt like an increasingly likely disaster. Mercifully, we happened to be close to the Meteor Crater Natural Monument and used the unexpected stop to pay it a visit, which turned out to be rather splendid.
As quickly as the winds had arrived, they vanished. We woke the following morning to calm skies and barely a whisper of a breeze — the kind of morning that makes you forget entirely that the previous day had been an ordeal. With much relief, we pulled out of the campsite and pointed ourselves westward to continue our road trip across Arizona. Ahead of us, clearly visible against a brilliant blue sky, rose the snow-capped peaks of the San Francisco Mountains. At their base sat our next destination: the small but thoroughly likeable town of Flagstaff.
The San Francisco Mountains are rather more dramatic than they first appear. The highest point, Humphreys Peak, reaches 12,633 feet, making it the loftiest spot in the entire state of Arizona. But here’s where it gets properly interesting. These peaks are the battered remnants of a colossal volcano that, millions of years ago, towered above the surrounding high plains at over 16,000 feet — higher than any mountain in the modern contiguous United States. At some point in the distant past, it erupted catastrophically, blowing away an enormous quantity of rock and reducing itself to the jagged, multi-peaked ridge we see today. Geologists compare the event in scale to the famous 1980 eruption of Mount St Helens in Washington State, which, if you’ve ever seen footage of it, was not what you’d call a minor incident. The broader volcanic field surrounding the area is vast, containing around 600 cinder cones scattered across the landscape. The most recent of these eruptions occurred roughly a thousand years ago at Sunset Crater, around 1064 AD, when local Sinagua people would have had an extraordinarily close-up view of events they almost certainly didn’t enjoy. Importantly, this is still classed as an active volcanic region, meaning future eruptions remain a genuine possibility. Having already visited a meteor crater, we were clearly developing a thing for craters of all varieties.
En route to Flagstaff, we decided to detour to a place called Grand Falls — a dramatic waterfall on the Little Colorado River that runs chocolate-brown when the snowmelt is flowing. We unhitched our Jeep from the back of the motorhome and set off in search of it. The drive took us through some genuinely beautiful landscape, past handsome cinder craters and impressive stretches of ancient lava flow. Eventually, we crossed into the Navajo Nation Reservation — the largest Native American territory in the United States, covering some 17.5 million acres across Arizona, New Mexico and Utah — and joined Indian Road 70.
Indian Road 70 was, to put it charitably, a dirt track. It had clearly been driven on enthusiastically when wet, at which point every vehicle passing through had carved deep ruts into the surface, and those ruts had then baked solid in the desert sun. The result was a corrugated nightmare that sent vibrations through the Jeep at frequencies we hadn’t previously encountered. After about five miles of bone-rattling progress, we admitted defeat and turned around. The car is, after all, ten years old, and we’d grown rather attached to it arriving in one piece. We reconnected the Jeep to the motorhome and pressed on to Flagstaff.
Flagstaff sits at around 6,900 feet above sea level on the famous Route 66 — the historic highway that ran from Chicago to Los Angeles and defined a certain romantic notion of American road travel for much of the twentieth century. The road was officially decommissioned in 1985, replaced by Interstate 40, though significant stretches of the original route still exist and Flagstaff wears its Route 66 heritage with evident pride. It is a genuinely appealing little mountain town with independent shops, decent restaurants and the kind of relaxed atmosphere that makes you want to linger. It also proved an excellent base for a couple of days. From here, the South Rim of the Grand Canyon is a straightforward ninety-minute drive north — entirely manageable, even before breakfast. There are also a couple of other nearby attractions that we reckoned were well worth the detour, but more on those shortly.
🌋 Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument
Sunset Crater is, as the name rather boldly implies, the most recently active volcano in these parts — and quite a dramatic one at that. Geologists reckon it last erupted somewhere between AD 1040 and 1100, which sounds comfortably ancient until you remember that William the Conqueror was busy sorting out England at roughly the same time. The poor Sinagua people — prehistoric farmers who’d been quietly growing corn in pit-houses hereabouts for centuries — would have had absolutely no warning beyond a few alarming tremors before the whole landscape went spectacularly wrong. The crater’s colourful red-tipped rim, it turns out, isn’t artistic licence — it’s oxidised spatter that gives the cone the appearance of being permanently bathed in sunset light. Somebody in the naming department was actually paying attention for once.
The Hopi people, who arrived in the area long after the Sinagua had moved on, still regard this as a sacred site. They believe the Kana spirit and a wind god called Yaponcha both reside here, which seems a perfectly reasonable arrangement for a volcano.
In the 1920s, a Hollywood film company — because of course they did — hatched a plan to dynamite the slopes of the cinder cone to simulate an eruption for a movie. Local citizens were, quite rightly, furious. Their protests were loud enough to reach President Herbert Hoover, who declared the whole area a National Monument in 1930. So Hollywood nearly destroyed it, and Washington saved it. There’s probably a metaphor in there somewhere.
As is absolutely standard procedure for us, our first move on arriving at any National Park or Monument was to make a beeline for the Visitor Centre. We are, to be fair, a pair of middle-aged people who find information boards genuinely exciting, so this suits us perfectly. You can collect maps, have a nosey at the exhibits and be smugly informed before you’ve even set foot on the lava.
Climbing on the crater walls themselves is no longer permitted. This wasn’t a random bureaucratic decision — visitors in earlier decades did enough damage tramping up and down the loose cinders that the Park Service banned it in the 1970s. You can, however, drive the scenic loop road around the very well-preserved cinder cone, which is a perfectly dignified way to take it all in if your knees are making threatening noises.
That said, there’s absolutely no need to remain imprisoned in the car. Several well-marked trails head off into this extraordinary landscape, some of which are wheelchair accessible, which is a genuinely thoughtful touch. We chose the Lava’s Edge Trail, which wound us under ponderosa pines, across loose cinders and rough, jagged basalt along the edge of the Bonito Lava Flow — a solidified river of rock that oozed out from the base of the crater during the original eruptions and travelled up to seven miles from its source. Along the way, a series of excellent information placards explained the volcanic formations and the history of the eruptions, which saved us having to pretend we already knew what we were looking at.
📍 Visitor Information — Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument
- Location: 6400 U.S. 89 (Sunset Crater–Wupatki Loop Road), Flagstaff, Arizona 86004. Approximately 12 miles north of Flagstaff on US-89, then 2 miles east on FR 545.
- Website: www.nps.gov/sucr
- Telephone: (928) 526-0502
- Opening Hours: The scenic drive and all trails are open year-round, day and night, subject to closure in extreme snowfall or severe weather. The Visitor Centre is open year-round except Christmas Day (25 December). Note: Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time and remains on Mountain Standard Time year-round.
- Entry Fees: Standard pass $15–$25 per person (covers both Sunset Crater and Wupatki National Monument for 7 days). Annual pass $45. America the Beautiful passes accepted (free for eligible seniors, military, and visitors with permanent disabilities). The park does not accept cash — card payments only.
🔭 The Lowell Observatory, Flagstaff
If you’ve got even a passing interest in the night sky — and let’s be honest, who among us hasn’t stared upwards on a clear evening and wondered what on earth is going on up there — then a visit to the Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff was absolutely worth our time.
The whole place owes its existence to one Percival Lowell, a wealthy Bostonian of the old-money variety who, having graduated from Harvard in 1876 with a degree in mathematics, apparently decided that working for his grandfather’s business for six years and then rattling around the Orient for a further decade wasn’t quite stimulating enough. In 1894, therefore, he did what any self-respecting Victorian gentleman-scientist would do: he built himself an observatory on a hilltop in Arizona. Initially, his grand obsession was the planet Mars, which he was convinced harboured a civilisation busy digging canals. He was wrong about that, as it turned out, but you have to admire the ambition.
By 1905, Lowell had shifted his considerable energies toward hunting down a hypothetical ninth planet lurking somewhere beyond Neptune. He called it Planet X, which even by the standards of the era sounds rather dramatic. He searched until his death in 1916 without success. It wasn’t until 1930 that a young astronomer named Clyde W. Tombaugh, working at the very same observatory, finally tracked the thing down. It was named Pluto, after the Roman god of the underworld — fitting, given how far from the sun it sits, freezing away in the dark. Sadly for Pluto, and rather unfairly in our view, the International Astronomical Union demoted it in 2006, stripping it of full planetary status on the basis of some rather pedantic definitions. Poor Pluto. Nine planets for 76 years and then suddenly you’re just a “dwarf planet.” We know how it feels.
The observatory itself offers several tours of the site, along with a museum housing some genuinely interesting exhibits covering the research activities of the Lowell — past, present and the rather exciting future. We opted for the evening programme, which turned out to be a fine decision. There were talks on the solar system, the life cycles of stars, and the rather mind-bending business of galaxies and the wider universe. On top of the talks, there were live demonstrations and — best of all — the opportunity to peer through the observatory’s own telescopes, weather permitting. In Arizona, fortunately, the weather usually does permit.
📍 Practical Information
- Location: 1400 W Mars Hill Road, Flagstaff, Arizona, AZ 86001, USA
- Website: lowell.edu
- Telephone: +1 (928) 774-3358
- Opening Hours: Open daily (except Tuesday), noon to 10:00 pm; extended to 11:00 pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays during summer (Memorial Day through Labour Day)
- Entry Fees:
- Adults (18+): $35
- Children (6–17): $20
- Children (5 and under): Free
- College students (with valid ID): $15
- Lowell Observatory members: Free
- Evening/stargazing add-on: $15 adults, $10 children (6–17), free for under-5s
- Note: Stargazing may not be available during inclement weather
Best time to visit Arizona
🌸 Spring — March to May
Spring is widely regarded as one of the finest times to visit Arizona. Temperatures are warm and welcoming rather than punishing, ranging from around 18°C in March to the low 30s by late May. The desert bursts into extraordinary colour as wildflowers carpet the Sonoran Desert floor — saguaro cacti bloom their creamy-white flowers, and the hillsides around Phoenix and Tucson shimmer with Mexican poppies, lupins, and brittlebush. The famous Antelope Canyon in Page is beautifully lit in spring, and the Grand Canyon’s South Rim is at its most accessible and photogenic.
Crowds are moderate rather than overwhelming, making it an excellent time to visit popular national parks such as the Grand Canyon, Sedona, and Saguaro. Accommodation prices sit in the mid-range — higher than summer but without the peak winter surcharges. Spring is ideal for hikers, as trails that would be treacherous in summer heat are comfortably walkable, especially early in the morning.
What to pack: Lightweight layers for cool mornings and evenings, breathable shirts and trousers for daytime warmth, a light waterproof jacket, sturdy walking boots, sun hat, high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a reusable water bottle. Allergy sufferers should bring antihistamines, as pollen levels are high.
☀️ Summer — June to August
Summer in Arizona is not for the faint-hearted. Temperatures across the lower desert regularly exceed 40°C, and Phoenix frequently records temperatures above 43°C for days at a stretch. However, summer has its own dramatic reward: the monsoon season, which typically arrives in July and runs through September. Towering storm cells roll across the desert skies each afternoon and evening, bringing spectacular lightning displays, dramatic dust storms known locally as haboobs, and short but intense downpours that transform dry riverbeds into rushing torrents.
Because of the heat, many domestic visitors stay away, meaning crowd levels at resorts and lower-elevation attractions drop considerably. Hotels slash their rates, and many upscale resorts in Scottsdale and Phoenix offer remarkable value. Those who want to escape the worst of the heat can head to higher elevations — Flagstaff sits at 2,100 metres and remains pleasant throughout summer, rarely exceeding 26°C. The ponderosa pine forests of the White Mountains offer cool hiking and stargazing well away from the desert floor.
What to pack: Ultra-lightweight, moisture-wicking clothing in light colours, a wide-brimmed hat, SPF 50+ sunscreen, insulated water bottle, electrolyte tablets or drinks, a light rain layer for afternoon monsoon storms, and sandals suitable for wet ground. Sunglasses with UV protection are essential. Avoid dark-coloured clothing.
🍂 Autumn — September to November
Autumn brings welcome relief as temperatures gradually ease from the summer extremes. By October, Phoenix and Tucson are in the comfortable 25–30°C range, and the southern deserts are delightful once more. The monsoon season wraps up in September, leaving the air fresh and the desert vegetation lush and green — a surprisingly verdant sight against the red rocks.
Sedona in autumn is particularly stunning, as the cottonwood trees along Oak Creek turn gold and amber, contrasting brilliantly with the famous red sandstone formations. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim sees good conditions, and the North Rim, which closes in mid-November, is at its most atmospheric in October. Festivals return to the calendar — the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, the Sedona Arts Festival, and various harvest-themed events in Flagstaff make autumn culturally rewarding as well.
Crowd levels begin to build towards November as winter visitors from colder US states and Canada start to arrive. Prices rise accordingly, though the overall experience is excellent value compared to peak winter season.
What to pack: Light daytime clothing, but with a fleece or mid-layer for evenings, especially at altitude. Comfortable walking shoes or trail runners, a light rain jacket (residual monsoon possible in September), sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sun hat. Pack warmer layers if visiting Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon’s North Rim.
❄️ Winter — December to February
Winter divides Arizona neatly into two very different experiences depending on elevation. The low desert — Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tucson, and the southern reaches of the state — enjoys mild, sunny days between 15°C and 20°C, making it extraordinarily appealing to visitors fleeing cold climates. This is peak season for the so-called “snowbirds,” retirees and holidaymakers from Canada and the northern United States who descend in large numbers to play golf, hike, and simply sit in the sunshine.
The crowds and costs reflect this popularity. Hotel rates in the Phoenix metro and Tucson are at their annual peak, and popular restaurants and resorts require advance booking. The upside is that the air is crystal-clear, the light is magnificent for photography, and outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and hot-air ballooning are extremely comfortable.
Meanwhile, the higher reaches of Arizona transform entirely. Flagstaff and the White Mountains receive significant snowfall, offering skiing and snowboarding at Arizona Snowbowl and Sunrise Park Resort. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim wears a dusting of snow and sees far fewer visitors than in any other season, offering a hauntingly beautiful and unusually peaceful experience.
What to pack: For low desert destinations — light daytime clothing, a fleece or light jacket for evenings, comfortable shoes, and sunscreen (the winter sun is still strong). For Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon — a proper warm coat, thermals, waterproof boots, hat, gloves, and warm layers. Always pack sunscreen regardless of season.
Where to stay
1. Little America Hotel Flagstaff
Little America Hotel sits just off Interstate 40 on 500 acres of ponderosa pine forest, making it something of an oddity for a roadside hotel — the grounds feel more like a nature reserve than a car park. The 247 rooms are spacious by American hotel standards, with floor-to-ceiling windows, marble bathrooms and separate dressing areas. Several room types are available, from standard kings and queens through to apartment suites with full kitchens and fireplace suites. On-site facilities include a seasonal outdoor pool, hot tub, hiking trails through the pines, an on-site restaurant and bar, a gift shop, and a convenience store. A complimentary airport shuttle runs during limited hours. The hotel ranks consistently near the top of Flagstaff’s accommodation options and works well as a base for day trips to the Grand Canyon, Sedona, Route 66 and the Arizona Snowbowl ski resort. It suits families, couples and groups equally well.
2. England House B&B
3. 303 BnB Inn Flagstaff
Situated at 303 West Juniper Avenue in Flagstaff’s NOHO District, the 303 BnB Inn is a family-owned bed and breakfast in a remodelled house a short distance from historic downtown. It offers four private guest suites, each with an ensuite bathroom, air conditioning, flat-screen TV, kitchenette, and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is served each morning and includes options for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free diets, alongside pancakes and fresh pastries. Communal facilities are generous for a property this size: guests have access to a games room with a 70-inch TV, shuffleboard, board games, and a vintage arcade console, as well as a fitness room, covered outdoor decking, and a complimentary coffee and tea station. The inn is run hands-on by its owner, Kim, who receives consistent praise in guest reviews for her attentiveness. Lowell Observatory is about 2.5 miles away, and Arizona Snowbowl is around 13 miles out. Nightly rates start at roughly $97.
More to Explore
