Antelope Canyon is a stunning slot canyon in northern Arizona, celebrated for its wave-like sandstone formations, vibrant natural colours, and breathtaking shafts of light.n!
Arizona: Navajo Nation – Monument Valley
🎬 Monument Valley — In the Footsteps of the Duke
When filmmaker John Ford rolled into what is now Monument Valley sometime in the late 1930s with a rather fresh-faced John Wayne in tow, he probably had no idea he was about to stamp his name all over one of the most recognisable landscapes on the planet. What followed was nothing short of a love affair between Hollywood and this extraordinary corner of the American Southwest — a love affair that, frankly, shows no signs of cooling down even now.
The film that started it all was Stagecoach, released in 1939, and it launched both Monument Valley and John Wayne into the stratosphere. Ford kept coming back, of course, because once you’ve found a backdrop that dramatic, you’d be mad not to. He returned to shoot Fort Apache in 1948 and The Searchers in 1956, the latter widely regarded as one of the greatest Westerns ever made. Other filmmakers followed suit, and the valley went on to appear in everything from Easy Rider to, somewhat improbably, Back to the Future Part III in 1990. For me, having been brought up on a solid diet of John Wayne films — a childhood well spent, I’d argue — this was nothing short of a pilgrimage. My wife may have seen it differently, but she was kind enough not to say so out loud.
It was particularly apt, then, that we were staying at Goulding’s RV Park. Harry Goulding had arrived in Monument Valley in 1923 with his new wife Leone — though he called her “Mike”, apparently because, when he was writing her love letters before their marriage, he struggled to spell her name correctly. One can only hope the letters were otherwise more eloquent. The couple set up a trading post and built a warm and lasting relationship with the local Navajo people over the years that followed.
Then the Great Depression arrived and, as it did for so many, made a right mess of things. Many of Goulding’s suppliers went under, and the future of the trading post looked bleak. He’d heard that director John Ford was scouting locations for a new Western and was apparently eyeing up Flagstaff. Goulding had precisely sixty dollars to his name. He took it, packed up “Mike”, and headed to Hollywood.
What happened next borders on the heroic, or possibly the unhinged, depending on your point of view. Unable to get a meeting with Ford, Goulding simply produced his sleeping bag and made it perfectly clear he’d be kipping outside the director’s office door until someone let him in. They let him in. Ten days later, Ford and his crew were on location in Monument Valley shooting Stagecoach. The rest, as they say, is history — and rather good history at that.
Monument Valley itself straddles the Utah-Arizona state border and sits within the Navajo Nation. There is a loop road of sorts around the valley, but it’s an unpaved dirt track and, given that our Jeep is not exactly in the first flush of youth, we thought better of it. Instead, we booked ourselves onto a three-and-a-half-hour escorted tour. Our transport was an open-backed four-wheel drive truck, with seats in the truck bed that could charitably be described as functional and less charitably as instruments of lower-back torture.
As we clambered aboard, the sky was doing its very best to look menacing. There were a couple of proper cracks of thunder for good measure. We pressed on regardless — we’re British, it takes more than a thunderstorm to put us off — and headed for our first stop: a Hogan, along with our fellow travellers: two grandparents and their grandchild from the Netherlands, a German couple, and two American couples.
The Hogan is the traditional dwelling of the Navajo. They are round structures with a wooden frame, sealed over with mud — which works perfectly well in the arid desert climate of Arizona but would, as we noted with a certain grim recognition, be absolutely useless in the UK. Inside, a Navajo lady was demonstrating weaving and other traditional crafts, which we watched for several minutes. She then gave a practical demonstration of how Navajo women traditionally style their long hair into a bun — using, as her willing model, a young woman from New York who appeared to have skipped the morning wash. We did not comment. Some things are better left unsaid.
🏜️ Monument Valley — John Wayne Was Here, and So Were We
Then came the main event we’d all been waiting for — a proper tour of Monument Valley. Now, if there’s one place on earth you feel you’ve already visited before you’ve actually been there, it’s this one. Those extraordinary sandstone buttes and mesas rising dramatically from the flat, rust-coloured plain have been burned into the collective consciousness of just about everyone who’s ever watched a Western film, a car advert, or indeed the opening credits of Forrest Gump. The valley sits on the Colorado Plateau, straddling the border between Utah and Arizona, and has been home to the Navajo Nation for centuries. The Navajo, who call it Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii — “Valley of the Rocks” — have lived in this extraordinary landscape since long before Hollywood discovered it in the 1930s.
We soon left the paved highway and turned onto the famous 17-mile unpaved loop road that winds around the valley floor. It’s a bumpy, dusty business, and I wouldn’t recommend it in anything smaller than a tank, but every few hundred yards the scenery demanded we stop for yet another photograph. Which, of course, we did. Repeatedly.
Thankfully, the weather had finally decided to cooperate. The sun poked out its head after what had been a rather grey and grumpy morning, and the combination of bright sunshine and brooding dark clouds rolling in behind produced exactly the sort of dramatic, cinematic light that makes photographers go slightly peculiar. The contrast between the deep ochre and burnt orange of the rock formations against that stormy sky was, frankly, ridiculous in the best possible way.
One of our absolute favourite stops was John Ford Point — also known as John Ford’s Point or John Ford Lookout — perched high up on a rocky outcrop with what can only be described as the definitive, classic view down into the valley below. Ford, the legendary Irish-American film director, used Monument Valley as the backdrop for no fewer than seven of his Western films between 1939 and 1964, including Stagecoach, The Searchers, and Cheyenne Autumn. It’s said he had a particular fondness for this exact viewpoint, and honestly, standing there, you could completely understand why. The man had an eye for a shot.
As if the scenery itself weren’t quite enough, a local Navajo gentleman very kindly rode his horse out onto the rocky outcrop in front of us, providing yet another perfect photo opportunity. A cowboy on horseback silhouetted against Monument Valley — you really couldn’t make it up. We did not complain.
🎬 John Wayne, Monument Valley and a Very Long Evening on a Camping Chair
As with all good things, our tour eventually came to an end and we made our way back to the Goulding’s campsite. Which, if I’m honest, was something of a relief — my knees were making noises that would have concerned a structural engineer.
Now, Goulding’s has a rather lovely tradition that, as a man who grew up watching Saturday afternoon westerns on a black-and-white telly, I found genuinely charming. Several evenings during the week they screen John Wayne movies. That night, it was The Searchers — the 1956 John Ford classic that many film buffs, including the director Martin Scorsese, have called one of the greatest American films ever made. High praise, though I’ll admit it didn’t stop John Wayne from acting in precisely the same way he acted in every other film he ever made.
The story follows Ethan Edwards, played by Wayne with his trademark wooden intensity, and his young companion Martin Pawley, played by Jeffrey Hunter. The two men spend several years — the film covers a span of around 1868 to 1873 — tracking down the Comanche chief Cicatrice, known as Scar, who had massacred their family and abducted Edwards’ young niece, Debbie. The Comanche were a formidable and wide-ranging people whose territory, known as Comancheria, once stretched across much of what is now Texas, New Mexico, Colorado and Kansas. By the late 1860s, the US government’s campaigns against them were intensifying, which gives the film at least a thin veneer of historical backdrop — even if Hollywood wasn’t especially bothered about getting the details right.
As with many such westerns, the plot was questionable and several scenes were, to put it generously, politically incorrect by any modern standard — the portrayal of the Comanche in particular hasn’t aged especially well, as you might imagine. The casting of Henry Brandon, a German-born actor, as the Comanche chief Scar is the sort of thing that makes you wince into your popcorn. Still, it was a good old story, rattling along at a decent pace, and John Ford knew how to shoot a landscape — which brings me to the real reason the whole evening worked so brilliantly.
It was wonderful to see so many of the areas of Monument Valley we had visited earlier that day appearing right there on the screen. The Mittens, Merrick Butte, the vast flat stretches of the valley floor — all of it suddenly familiar in a way that made the film feel almost personal. Ford had used Monument Valley extensively from his 1939 film Stagecoach onwards, and the Navajo Nation land became so associated with his vision of the American West that the two are now essentially inseparable in the popular imagination. Sitting there under an enormous sky, having spent the day actually standing in those same locations, watching Wayne ride across them in grainy 1950s Technicolor was, I’ll reluctantly admit, rather magical.
Visiting Monument Valley Tribal Park
📍 About Monument Valley
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, known in Navajo as Tse’Bii’Ndzisgaii (Valley of the Rocks), sits on the border of north-eastern Arizona and south-eastern Utah, entirely within the Navajo Nation Reservation. Spanning 91,696 acres at an elevation of approximately 5,564 feet above sea level, it is one of the most recognised and photographed landscapes on earth. Towering sandstone buttes and mesas rise between 400 and 1,000 feet from the desert floor, their deep red and orange hues shifting dramatically with the movement of the sun throughout the day.
The park is administered by the Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation Department, an agency of the Navajo Nation. Unlike national parks managed by the US National Park Service, Monument Valley operates under sovereign tribal authority. US National Park passes and America the Beautiful passes are not accepted.
🗺️ Location
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is located on US Highway 163, at the south-west edge of the roundabout of US Highway 163 and Monument Valley Road, on the Arizona–Utah border.
Postal Address: Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park P.O. Box 360289 Monument Valley, Utah 84536 USA
The park is approximately 22 miles from Kayenta, Arizona; 25 miles from Mexican Hat, Utah; and 121 miles from Page, Arizona.
🌐 Website
navajonationparks.org/navajo-tribal-parks/monument-valley
📞 Contact
Telephone: +1 (435) 727-5870
Fax: +1 (435) 727-5875
Email: mvntp@navajonationparks.org
For broader enquiries about Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation: Email: navajoparks@yahoo.com Telephone: +1 (928) 871-6647
🕗 Opening Times
Park and Administration Office: 8:00 am – 5:00 pm, Monday to Sunday
Winter Hours (approximately October to April): Scenic Drive: 8:00 am – 5:00 pm, Monday to Sunday. Last entry at 2:30 pm daily. Tour Operator Booth: 8:00 am – 6:00 pm, Monday to Sunday.
Summer Hours (approximately May to September): Scenic Drive: 8:00 am – 7:00 pm, Monday to Sunday. Last entry at 4:30 pm daily. Tour Operator Booth: 8:00 am – 5:00 pm, Monday to Sunday.
The park is closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, New Year’s Day, and on the days of the annual Marathons held in November and March.
💵 Entry Fees
Entry fees are charged per person and are payable upon arrival on a first-come, first-served basis. Payment by credit card is recommended, as cash may not be accepted at the gate.
General Admission: approximately $8–$10 per person (aged 10 and over) Children aged 9 and under: Free
Vehicle access to the 17-mile Loop Drive may carry an additional charge of approximately $15 per vehicle.
Please note that general admission does not include a Backcountry Permit. If you intend to hike or camp beyond the standard park area, a separate Backcountry Permit must be purchased in advance from the Visitor Centre.
🏜️ Things to Do
The centrepiece of any visit is the self-guided 17-mile Valley Drive, a dirt loop road that winds past the park’s most celebrated formations, including the iconic Mitten Buttes and Merrick Butte. The route offers eleven designated lookout points and passes local Navajo vendors selling hand-crafted jewellery, artwork, and souvenirs directly from their stalls along the roadside.
For those wishing to explore further, Navajo-guided Jeep tours depart from the Visitor Centre and venture into more remote areas of the valley, including landmarks such as the Ear of the Wind natural arch that are inaccessible to independent visitors. Horseback trail rides are also available near John Ford Point within the valley.
The Wildcat Trail is the only publicly accessible hiking trail in the park — a 1.5-mile route (though some sources describe the full loop as approximately 4 miles around Mitten Butte). Visitors must sign in and out at the Visitor Centre before and after hiking.
The Visitor Centre houses an extensive gift shop — one of the largest in the south-west — along with exhibits on Navajo Nation history and the Navajo Code Talkers. During the summer months, the Haske’nneini Restaurant serves both Navajo and American cuisine. The View Hotel, located within the park, offers accommodation with dramatic views across the valley.
⚠️ Important Rules and Reminders
Rock climbing on any of the formations is strictly prohibited under Navajo Nation law. Drones are not permitted anywhere on Navajo land. Motorcycles and RVs are prohibited on the Loop Drive due to rough terrain and deep sand dunes. Backcountry camping and hiking without a valid permit constitutes trespassing on a federal Indian reservation. Visitors should carry plenty of water at all times, wear appropriate sun protection, and be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions, particularly during the peak season of May to September.
The Navajo people ask that you seek consent before photographing individuals or their property. Commercial photography requires a permit from the Navajo Film and Media Commission.
| Location: | Indn Route 42, Oljato-Monument Valley, AZ |
| Website: | https://navajonationparks.org/tribal-parks/monument-valley/ |
| Hours: | 8 am to 3 pm |
| Admission: | Park Vehicle Entry: $20 per non-commercial vehicle up to 4 people ($10 each additional passenger) |
Other places to visit close by
1. The Grand Canyon (136 Miles)
Located in Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park encompasses 277 miles (446 km) of the Colorado River and adjacent uplands. The park is home to much of the immense Grand Canyon; a mile (1.6 km) deep, and up to 18 miles (29 km) wide. Layered bands of colourful rock reveal millions of years of geologic history. Grand Canyon is unmatched in the vistas it offers visitors from the rim.Located in Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park encompasses 277 miles (446 km) of the Colorado River and adjacent uplands. The park is home to much of the immense Grand Canyon; a mile (1.6 km) deep, and up to 18 miles (29 km) wide. Layered bands of colorful rock reveal millions of years of geologic history. Grand Canyon is unmatched in the vistas it offers visitors from the rim.
2. Antelope Canyon (120 Miles)
Also known as “corkscrew” canyon, Antelope is a slot canyon in Arizona, close to Lake Powell and the city of Page.
The canyon was formed by the erosion of Navajo Sandstone, primarily due to flash flooding and secondarily due to other sub-aerial processes. Rainwater, especially during monsoon season, runs into the extensive basin above the slot canyon sections, picking up speed and sand as it rushes into the narrow passageways. Over time the passageways eroded away, making the corridors deeper and smoothing hard edges in such a way as to form characteristic “flowing” shapes in the rock.
3. Lake Powell (10 Miles)
Lake Powell is located in northern Arizona and stretches up into southern Utah. It’s part of the Colorado River in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. With nearly 2,000 miles of shoreline, endless sunshine, warm water, perfect weather, and some of the most spectacular scenery in the west, Lake Powell is the ultimate playground. Rent a houseboat, stay at a campground, or enjoy our lodging and hop aboard a guided expedition.
Best time to visit Arizona
🌸 Spring — March to May
Spring is widely regarded as one of the finest times to visit Arizona. Temperatures are warm and welcoming rather than punishing, ranging from around 18°C in March to the low 30s by late May. The desert bursts into extraordinary colour as wildflowers carpet the Sonoran Desert floor — saguaro cacti bloom their creamy-white flowers, and the hillsides around Phoenix and Tucson shimmer with Mexican poppies, lupins, and brittlebush. The famous Antelope Canyon in Page is beautifully lit in spring, and the Grand Canyon’s South Rim is at its most accessible and photogenic.
Crowds are moderate rather than overwhelming, making it an excellent time to visit popular national parks such as the Grand Canyon, Sedona, and Saguaro. Accommodation prices sit in the mid-range — higher than summer but without the peak winter surcharges. Spring is ideal for hikers, as trails that would be treacherous in summer heat are comfortably walkable, especially early in the morning.
What to pack: Lightweight layers for cool mornings and evenings, breathable shirts and trousers for daytime warmth, a light waterproof jacket, sturdy walking boots, sun hat, high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a reusable water bottle. Allergy sufferers should bring antihistamines, as pollen levels are high.
☀️ Summer — June to August
Summer in Arizona is not for the faint-hearted. Temperatures across the lower desert regularly exceed 40°C, and Phoenix frequently records temperatures above 43°C for days at a stretch. However, summer has its own dramatic reward: the monsoon season, which typically arrives in July and runs through September. Towering storm cells roll across the desert skies each afternoon and evening, bringing spectacular lightning displays, dramatic dust storms known locally as haboobs, and short but intense downpours that transform dry riverbeds into rushing torrents.
Because of the heat, many domestic visitors stay away, meaning crowd levels at resorts and lower-elevation attractions drop considerably. Hotels slash their rates, and many upscale resorts in Scottsdale and Phoenix offer remarkable value. Those who want to escape the worst of the heat can head to higher elevations — Flagstaff sits at 2,100 metres and remains pleasant throughout summer, rarely exceeding 26°C. The ponderosa pine forests of the White Mountains offer cool hiking and stargazing well away from the desert floor.
What to pack: Ultra-lightweight, moisture-wicking clothing in light colours, a wide-brimmed hat, SPF 50+ sunscreen, insulated water bottle, electrolyte tablets or drinks, a light rain layer for afternoon monsoon storms, and sandals suitable for wet ground. Sunglasses with UV protection are essential. Avoid dark-coloured clothing.
🍂 Autumn — September to November
Autumn brings welcome relief as temperatures gradually ease from the summer extremes. By October, Phoenix and Tucson are in the comfortable 25–30°C range, and the southern deserts are delightful once more. The monsoon season wraps up in September, leaving the air fresh and the desert vegetation lush and green — a surprisingly verdant sight against the red rocks.
Sedona in autumn is particularly stunning, as the cottonwood trees along Oak Creek turn gold and amber, contrasting brilliantly with the famous red sandstone formations. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim sees good conditions, and the North Rim, which closes in mid-November, is at its most atmospheric in October. Festivals return to the calendar — the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, the Sedona Arts Festival, and various harvest-themed events in Flagstaff make autumn culturally rewarding as well.
Crowd levels begin to build towards November as winter visitors from colder US states and Canada start to arrive. Prices rise accordingly, though the overall experience is excellent value compared to peak winter season.
What to pack: Light daytime clothing, but with a fleece or mid-layer for evenings, especially at altitude. Comfortable walking shoes or trail runners, a light rain jacket (residual monsoon possible in September), sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sun hat. Pack warmer layers if visiting Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon’s North Rim.
❄️ Winter — December to February
Winter divides Arizona neatly into two very different experiences depending on elevation. The low desert — Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tucson, and the southern reaches of the state — enjoys mild, sunny days between 15°C and 20°C, making it extraordinarily appealing to visitors fleeing cold climates. This is peak season for the so-called “snowbirds,” retirees and holidaymakers from Canada and the northern United States who descend in large numbers to play golf, hike, and simply sit in the sunshine.
The crowds and costs reflect this popularity. Hotel rates in the Phoenix metro and Tucson are at their annual peak, and popular restaurants and resorts require advance booking. The upside is that the air is crystal-clear, the light is magnificent for photography, and outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and hot-air ballooning are extremely comfortable.
Meanwhile, the higher reaches of Arizona transform entirely. Flagstaff and the White Mountains receive significant snowfall, offering skiing and snowboarding at Arizona Snowbowl and Sunrise Park Resort. The Grand Canyon’s South Rim wears a dusting of snow and sees far fewer visitors than in any other season, offering a hauntingly beautiful and unusually peaceful experience.
What to pack: For low desert destinations — light daytime clothing, a fleece or light jacket for evenings, comfortable shoes, and sunscreen (the winter sun is still strong). For Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon — a proper warm coat, thermals, waterproof boots, hat, gloves, and warm layers. Always pack sunscreen regardless of season.
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
If there is a single season that earns the title of the best time to visit Arizona, it is spring — particularly March and April. The desert is alive with wildflowers, temperatures are warm without being dangerous, trails are accessible, and the dramatic landscapes of Sedona, the Grand Canyon, and Monument Valley are at their most photogenic. Crowds exist but have not yet reached their summer lows or winter peaks, and accommodation remains reasonably priced. Autumn runs a close second, especially October, which offers near-perfect conditions and a lush post-monsoon desert. The ideal approach for those with flexibility is to plan around the shoulder periods of late March to early May or mid-September to early November, securing the best combination of comfortable weather, manageable crowds, and excellent value.
Where to stay near Monument Valley
1. Goulding Lodge
Goulding’s Lodge offers accommodations in Monument Valley. With a restaurant, the 3-star resort has air-conditioned rooms with free WiFi, each with a private bathroom. The resort has an indoor pool and a 24-hour front desk.
There is a sun terrace. Guests at Goulding’s Lodge will be able to enjoy activities in and around Monument Valley, like hiking.
Kayenta is 25 mi from the resort.
2. Goulding’s RV & Campground
Nestled near the lodge in the tranquil Rock Door Canyon, Goulding’s RV & Campgrounds offers each guest a panoramic view through the canyon door, out to surrounding Monument Valley. Select an RV site for full hook-ups, including water, 50-amp power, and cable TV. Or keep it simple with a tent site. Both sites include access to bathrooms, picnic tables, grills, and Wi-Fi internet. Cabins are also available, complete with private bathrooms and porches.
All RV and Campground guests also have access to all Goulding’s property amenities, including the Stagecoach Restaurant, museum, gift shop, Earth Spirit Theater, indoor pool, convenience store, and laundromat. Shuttle service is available between the campground and the main lodge complex. Guests can sign up for a Monument Valley tour at the RV Park & Campgrounds Office. Pets are welcome and subject to additional fees, please see the office for details.
More to Explore
