Oaxaca, with its vibrant blend of indigenous cultures, colonial architecture, rich culinary traditions, and colourful markets set against a backdrop of rugged mountains and sun-soaked valleys, offers visitors an immersive experience that feels both timeless and deeply rooted in the diverse heritage of southern Mexico.
Mexico: Oaxaca – Mitla
The Stonework That Defies Time
What truly sets Mitla apart from other Mesoamerican sites is the stonework. Visitors familiar with the likes of Teotihuacan or Palenque will notice the difference immediately. At Mitla, there are no large pyramids or towering statues. Instead, the eye is drawn to the intricacy of the architecture. The buildings are adorned with thousands of finely cut stones, laid together in geometric mosaic patterns without the use of mortar. It is a feat of both engineering and artistry.
The most iconic motif here is the xicalcoliuhqui, a stepped fret design repeated across tombs, friezes, and entire walls. These patterns are not merely decorative. They formed a visual language — symbols conveying layers of meaning that would have been immediately understood by the people of the time. There is a precision to the patterns that gives the impression they were meant to last forever, and in many ways, they have.
Walking Through the Site
Our guided tour began in what is known as the Church Group. This section is organised around two courtyards, surrounded by structures showing clear signs of Mixtec influence. The stone lintels and remaining traces of mural art gave hints of a once-vibrant ceremonial life. Red and white pigments were used extensively, and the style was reminiscent of the illustrations found in ancient Mixtec codices. One could imagine these courtyards bustling with activity centuries ago, priests performing rituals while smoke from incense filled the air.
From there, we crossed the modern road that divides the site to reach the Column Group. This is the architectural highlight of Mitla. At the centre is the Hall of Columns, which was likely used by the elite for ceremonial purposes. Though the original surface decoration has largely faded, parts of the walls were restored in the early twentieth century with a careful reapplication of red pigment. These restorations give a fleeting sense of the building’s former grandeur. The six monolithic columns still standing are impressive in their symmetry and scale.
Just beneath the main plaza, the entrances to two cruciform tombs are visible. These tombs were once lavish resting places for high-status individuals, but were most likely plundered long ago. Today, due to concerns over their condition, they are closed to visitors. Even so, standing at the entrance, one gets a palpable sense of the reverence with which these spaces were constructed.
A Church on the Ruins
After the formal part of the visit, I wandered over to the nearby Church of San Pablo. This modest 16th-century building, still in use today, was erected using stones taken directly from the Zapotec structures. It stands on top of the original temple complex, a quiet yet striking example of how Spanish colonial powers sought to assert control over indigenous belief systems by literally building over them. The church interior is unpretentious, with a simple altar and little decoration, but it remains open to the public outside of Mass hours.
Planning your visit to Mitla
📍 Location
Mitla is located in the Tlacolula Valley in the state of Oaxaca, southern Mexico. The archaeological site lies about 40 kilometres southeast of the city of Oaxaca, making it easily accessible as a day trip from the city centre. It sits just off Federal Highway 190, near the town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
🚗 How to Get There
There are several ways to reach Mitla from Oaxaca City:
By Car: If you’re driving, simply follow Highway 190 (Carretera Internacional) heading east. The drive takes roughly 45 minutes.
By Bus: Local buses to Mitla depart regularly from the second-class bus terminal in Oaxaca City (Central de Abastos). The journey takes around one hour and drops you near the entrance to the site.
By Tour: Many local tour operators in Oaxaca offer half-day or full-day tours that include transport, a guide, and often stops at other attractions like Hierve el Agua or a mezcal distillery.
By Taxi or Private Hire: Taxis and private drivers can be hired for a round trip. Agree on a price in advance; it’s typically reasonable for a half-day hire.
🌐 Contact Information
Official Website: https://inah.gob.mx
(Navigate to the “Sitios” or “Zonas Arqueológicas” section and search for Mitla)Telephone: +52 (951) 528 1059
(This number is for the Oaxaca branch of INAH, the National Institute of Anthropology and History)Email: contacto@inah.gob.mx
🕰️ Opening Hours
Mitla is open daily from 10:00 to 16:00, including weekends and public holidays. It’s best to arrive earlier in the day to avoid any potential crowding.
💷 Entry Fees
General admission: 95 Mexican pesos per person
Free entry: Mexican citizens and residents on Sundays, children under 13, students, teachers, and senior citizens with valid ID
Please note that fees and policies are subject to change. It is advisable to check the official INAH website or ring ahead before your visit for the most current details.
Getting to and around Oaxaca
✈️ Getting to Oaxaca, Mexico
Oaxaca City, officially known as Oaxaca de Juárez, is the capital of the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico. While it feels a world away from the frenetic pace of Mexico City, it’s relatively easy to reach, especially if you’re arriving from a major hub.
From the UK, the most practical route is to fly into Mexico City first. Direct flights from London to Mexico City operate regularly with airlines such as British Airways and Aeroméxico. Once in Mexico, you can either take a domestic flight to Oaxaca or travel overland. Flights from Mexico City to Oaxaca Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX) are frequent, with a journey time of just under 1.5 hours. Carriers such as Aeroméxico, Viva Aerobus, and Volaris all operate this route.
If you prefer to travel by land, several long-distance bus services make the journey from Mexico City to Oaxaca. ADO is the main operator, offering comfortable, air-conditioned coaches with onboard toilets. The trip takes around 6 to 7 hours, depending on the service and traffic. For those already in Puebla or San Cristóbal de las Casas, bus connections to Oaxaca are also available and reliable, though from San Cristóbal the journey is considerably longer and more winding.
🚶♀️ Getting Around Oaxaca
The historic centre of Oaxaca is compact and largely walkable, with most major sights, restaurants, markets, and museums within easy reach of one another. Cobbled streets and colonial buildings dominate the landscape, and wandering on foot is the best way to take it all in. The Zócalo, or main square, serves as a useful reference point, with many attractions radiating outward from there.
For slightly longer journeys within the city—such as to Monte Albán, the airport, or accommodation on the outskirts—taxis and ride-hailing services like DiDi are readily available. DiDi is more commonly used in Oaxaca than Uber and tends to be affordable and safe. You can also flag down street taxis, but as always, it’s a good idea to agree the fare in advance if not using an app.
Public transport in Oaxaca is basic but functional. A network of small local buses and colectivos (shared taxis or minibuses) serve the wider urban area and surrounding villages. These are mostly used by locals and can be tricky to navigate without some Spanish and a rough idea of the routes. That said, they offer a cheap and authentic way to reach nearby artisan towns such as Teotitlán del Valle or San Bartolo Coyotepec, if you’re feeling adventurous.
For day trips further afield—like Hierve el Agua, Mitla, or the Tlacolula Sunday market—you can book a guided tour, hire a private driver, or rent a car. Oaxaca’s roads are manageable, but some are winding and slow, particularly if you’re heading into the mountains. Planning your transport ahead of time can make for a smoother experience.
Eating out for vegans in Oaxaca
🥗 Vegan Food in Oaxaca, Mexico
Oaxaca is best known for its rich, traditional cuisine, but it’s also becoming an increasingly welcoming place for plant-based eaters. From casual cafés to organic markets, there’s a growing selection of vegan-friendly spots to try. Here are some of the best options in the city:
🌿 Hierba Dulce – Centro Histórico
A fully vegan restaurant located just a short walk from the Zócalo. Hierba Dulce blends traditional Oaxacan ingredients with a modern plant-based twist. Think tlayudas, mole, and tamales—all entirely vegan. The space is calm and relaxed, ideal for a leisurely lunch.
📍 Address: Calle Porfirio Díaz 110, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @hierbadulceoaxaca
🍜 Açaí Vegan – Reforma
A bright and casual vegan café offering smoothie bowls, vegan tacos, salads, and hearty bowls. It’s a good spot for breakfast or a light lunch, especially if you’re after something fresh and colourful.
📍 Address: Av. Heroico Colegio Militar 110, Reforma, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @acaiveganoaxaca
🛒 Verde Morada – Organic Shop & Deli
A small organic shop and deli carrying plant-based pantry goods, fresh produce, and vegan-friendly snacks. They also serve prepared meals, juices, and coffees with non-dairy milk. A good place to stock up on basics if you’re self-catering.
📍 Address: Calle de Manuel Doblado 100, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @verdemoradaoaxaca
🍽️ Tierra del Sol – Fine Dining with Vegan Options
While not exclusively vegan, this upscale restaurant—run by celebrated Oaxacan chef Olga Cabrera—offers beautifully prepared regional dishes with plant-based adaptations available upon request. The rooftop setting is particularly lovely at sunset.
📍 Address: Av. Reforma 411, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Website: tierradelsol.com.mx
🧁 Boulenc – Artisan Bakery & Café
Boulenc is a favourite for both locals and travellers, known for its artisan breads and brunch menu. Though not a vegan bakery, they usually have a few clearly marked vegan pastries, as well as oat or almond milk for coffee. Expect a queue at peak times.
📍 Address: Calle Porfirio Díaz 207, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @boulenc_oaxaca
🥙 Itanoni – Traditional Tortilla Spot
Famous for its heirloom corn and hand-pressed tortillas, Itanoni is a traditional Oaxacan eatery that happens to be very vegan-friendly. Try the memelas, tetelas, and tostadas with simple toppings like beans, avocado, and local greens.
📍 Address: Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma, Oaxaca
🌐 No website – cash only
🌱 Finca Orgánica – Juice Bar & Light Fare
Ideal for a quick juice, smoothie, or plant-based snack. They also serve soups, salads, and vegan tortas. Great for a healthy recharge during the day, with a few outdoor tables available.
📍 Address: José María Pino Suárez 501, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @fincaorganicaoaxaca
The best time to visit Oaxaca
📅 Best Time to Visit Oaxaca, Mexico by Season
Oaxaca is a year-round destination, but each season offers something slightly different depending on your interests, tolerance for heat or rain, and what you’d like to experience culturally. Here’s a breakdown by season using UK spelling and practical guidance:
🌼 Spring (March to May)
Overview:
Spring in Oaxaca is dry, sunny, and increasingly warm. Daytime temperatures can climb into the high 20s to low 30s Celsius, with little rainfall.
Pros:
Clear skies and warm weather
Fewer crowds than in winter
Excellent time for exploring ruins and countryside without rain
Cons:
Can get quite hot by May
Some haze or dust in rural areas due to dryness
Good for:
Outdoor sightseeing, market visits, early cultural festivals like Semana Santa (Easter)
☀️ Summer (June to August)
Overview:
Summer brings the rainy season. Expect warm days, but also regular afternoon or evening showers, particularly in July and August.
Pros:
Lush green landscapes
Cooler nights and pleasant mornings
Fewer tourists compared to high winter season
Cons:
Rain may disrupt plans in the afternoons
Some rural roads and trails can become muddy
Good for:
Cultural festivals (like Guelaguetza in July), visiting museums, culinary tours
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
Overview:
Autumn is transitional. September can still be quite wet, but by late October the rains ease off, and the city begins preparing for major celebrations.
Pros:
Pleasant temperatures and improving weather
Fewer crowds in early autumn
Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) at the end of October is one of the highlights of the year
Cons:
Risk of rain in September
Popular holidays can lead to busy accommodation and higher prices
Good for:
Photography, festivals, cultural immersion
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Overview:
Winter is dry and sunny with cooler mornings and evenings. This is peak tourist season due to the comfortable weather.
Pros:
Crisp, dry conditions ideal for walking and sightseeing
Clear views and minimal rain
Vibrant atmosphere around Christmas and New Year
Cons:
Popular time, so expect more tourists
Accommodation prices can be higher
Cooler evenings may require a jumper or light jacket
Good for:
Ruins and outdoor excursions, markets, city walking tours
🏆 Overall Recommendation:
Late October to early March is arguably the best window for visiting Oaxaca if you’re seeking dry weather, lively cultural events, and manageable temperatures. However, if you prefer a quieter experience with greener scenery, the early summer months (before peak rains) can also be low.
Where to stay in Oaxaca
1. Luxury – Grand Fiesta Americana Oaxaca
2. Mid-Range – Hotel Dainzu
3. Budget – Hotel Nacional
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