A challenging and rewarding return cycling journey across Northern England following the Coast to Coast route and Hadrian's Way through the Lake District the North Pennines and the Hadrian's Wall corridor before heading back the way you came.
United Kingdom: Exploring The Leas and Souter Lighthouse Walk
Lights, Cliffs and Pedals: Souter Lighthouse and The Leas, South Shields
We’d had a good run from Durham — legs feeling it, but spirits high — and as we rolled closer to the coast, the light changed the way it does when the sea is nearby. That particular brightness. Karen spotted it first, of course. She usually does. We were in the final stretch of our Coast to Coast (C2C) ride, the famous 137-mile slog — if you can call it that — from the Irish Sea all the way across to the North Sea.
We’d finished the C2C proper at Roker Beach, just south of The Leas, before making our way north up the coast. It’s a fine place to end a long ride, is Roker. From there we headed up to South Shields, where we were spending the night, and it was on that stretch that we came across Souter Lighthouse and The Leas — which turned out to be one of the highlights of the whole trip.
🏗️ A Bit of History (and It’s a Good One)
Souter Lighthouse sits on Lizard Point, midway between the Tyne and the Wear, and if you’ve never heard of it, you probably should have. Built in 1871 and designed by Trinity House engineer Sir James Douglass, it holds a pretty remarkable claim: it was the first lighthouse in the world purpose-built to run on alternating electric current. Not just the first in Britain — the first in the world. For 1871, that’s extraordinary. The Victorians really did get on with things.
The name is a little odd, mind you. The lighthouse stands on Lizard Point, but there was already a Lizard Point lighthouse down in Cornwall, so they named this one after nearby Souter Point to avoid any confusion. Sensible, if a bit confusing when you find out.
The reason it needed building at all was straightforward and grim. In 1869 alone, more than 20 vessels were lost along the stretch of coast between South Shields and Sunderland. The rocks and reefs at Whitburn Steel were, to put it politely, an absolute menace. The foundation stone was laid in June 1869, and by January 1871 it was operational — a red and white striped tower you can see for up to 26 miles out to sea.
That red band, by the way, wasn’t part of the original design. It was added in September 1924 to make the lighthouse more distinctive as a daymark in daylight hours. Before that, it was plain white.
It served for 117 years before being decommissioned in 1988, when GPS and satellite navigation made it redundant. The National Trust took it on, and you can now go inside, climb the 76 steps to the top, poke around the engine room and get a feel for what life was like for the lighthouse keepers.
One other thing worth knowing: Lewis Carroll had connections with the area. His cousin was married to the Vicar of Whitburn, and while staying there he wrote The Walrus and the Carpenter — published in Alice Through the Looking Glass in 1872, the year after the lighthouse opened. Whether there’s a connection, we couldn’t say, but it’s a good bit of pub trivia.
🌿 The Leas — Better Than It Sounds
The Leas is the stretch of coastline that runs north from the lighthouse for around two and a half miles, all magnesian limestone cliffs, grassy tops, rocky bays and big North Sea views. The cliffs themselves are around 250 million years old, which makes you feel a bit insignificant on a bicycle.
It’s owned and maintained by the National Trust, and it’s the kind of place where people walk dogs, fly kites, watch birds, and generally get some air. The cliffs and rock stacks around Marsden Bay support a proper seabird colony — kittiwakes, fulmars, cormorants, shags, guillemots. Karen knew them all. I nodded as if I did.
Cycling along the coast road on a warm, sunny afternoon with that kind of scenery on one side and the sea glittering away on the other was, frankly, a bit special. You couldn’t have ordered better weather, and after the Pennines — which are beautiful but relentless — the flat coast road felt like a reward.
The Leas is also, somewhat incongruously, the finish line for the Great North Run every year — the famous half marathon that brings thousands of runners to the North East. On the day we were there, it was peaceful and quiet, which suited us very well.
🚲 Worth the Detour
We didn’t go up the lighthouse tower — we were still on bikes and the legs had opinions about stairs — but even just cycling past it and along The Leas was worth it. The place has real character. The red and white tower against the blue sky, the sound of the sea below the cliffs, and a surprisingly good café on site if you need something to keep you going.
South Shields gave us a comfortable night’s rest, which we needed. The next morning we’d be heading west again — this time following Hadrian’s Wall all the way to Carlisle. More history, more miles, more hills no doubt. But that’s another story.
Souter and The Leas were a fine way to round off the C2C. If you’re ever in the area — by bike, by car, or on foot — do yourself a favour and go.
Planning Your Visit to Souter Lighthouse and The Leas
🏮 Souter Lighthouse and The Leas
| 📍 Location | Coast Road, Whitburn, Sunderland, SR6 7NH | 🕖 Opening Times | Mid-February to October, Sunday–Thursday 10:30 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM). Closed Friday & Saturday. |
| 🌐 Website | nationaltrust.org.uk/souter-lighthouse | ||
| 📞 Phone | 0191 529 3161 | souterlight house@nationaltrust.org.uk | |
| 🅿️ Parking | Free National Trust car park on site | ℹ️ Notes | Dogs welcome on The Leas coastal grassland. Lighthouse interior accessible via guided tour only. Café and gift shop on site. |
| 🎟️ Entry | Adults £9.50 · Children £4.75 · National Trust members free |
🚗 Getting There
Souter Lighthouse lies on the coast road (A183) between Sunderland and South Shields, in the village of Whitburn. By car, follow the A183 coast road north from Sunderland or south from South Shields; the lighthouse is clearly signposted. By bus, the 26 service runs between Sunderland and South Shields and stops close to the site at Whitburn. The nearest Metro station is Seaburn on the Tyne and Wear Metro Yellow Line, from where the 26 bus connects onward. The Leas coastal grassland stretches south from the lighthouse and is freely accessible on foot at any time.
The Best Time to Visit Northeast England
Northeast England is a region of dramatic contrasts — wind-swept coastlines, brooding moorland, medieval cities, and industrial heritage. The region’s weather is shaped by its northerly latitude and proximity to both the North Sea and the Pennines, making it cooler and breezier than much of England year-round. Each season brings a distinct experience, and the right time to visit depends entirely on what you are hoping to discover.
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring arrives gradually in the Northeast, with March often still feeling wintry before April and May bring brighter days and a gentle warmth. The landscape transforms as the moors turn vivid green, wildflowers bloom along the coastal paths, and gardens such as Alnwick Garden come into spectacular colour. Temperatures climb slowly from around 7°C to 13°C, and while showers are frequent, they are interspersed with crisp, sunny intervals that make walking conditions particularly rewarding.
Spring is an excellent time for exploring the Northumberland Coast, visiting Hadrian’s Wall before the summer rush, and enjoying Durham Cathedral and Newcastle’s cultural quarter without fighting peak-season crowds. Easter weekend can be busy and accommodation prices may spike briefly, but for the most part spring remains an underrated and reasonably priced season to visit. The longer daylight hours from late April onwards allow for fuller days of exploration.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket, layering base and mid-layers, walking boots with ankle support, lightweight scarf, packable umbrella, sunscreen for brighter days, and a small daypack.
☀️ Summer (June to August)
Summer is the most popular season for visiting the Northeast, and deservedly so. Temperatures typically reach between 14°C and 20°C, and the region enjoys some of its longest and brightest days. The Northumberland coastline — consistently voted among England’s finest — comes into its own, with beaches such as Bamburgh, Seahouses, and Druridge Bay offering golden sands and clear waters that can feel surprisingly refreshing. Lindisfarne (Holy Island) is best visited in summer when causeways and tides allow more flexible access.
Newcastle and Gateshead host an array of festivals, outdoor events, and al fresco dining throughout the summer months. The city’s Quayside buzzes with life, and the cultural programme expands considerably. Hadrian’s Wall and the Northumberland National Park attract walkers, cyclists, and families in earnest. The trade-off is higher accommodation prices and busier roads, particularly in August. Rain is always possible — this remains northern England — but summer offers the best sustained chance of fine weather.
What to pack: Light layers including a fleece or jumper, waterproof outer layer, comfortable walking shoes or trainers, sun hat and sunscreen, sunglasses, one smart outfit for evenings out in Newcastle, and a reusable water bottle.
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is arguably the Northeast’s most atmospheric season. September can feel like a continuation of summer with warmth lingering into early October, before temperatures drop to a range of 8°C to 14°C and the landscape shifts into its palette of amber, copper, and rust. The moors and dales look magnificent, and riverside walks through areas such as Weardale, Teesdale, and Kielder Forest become something close to spectacular.
Crowds thin noticeably after the school holidays end in early September, making this an ideal time for those seeking solitude along the coast or on Hadrian’s Wall. Accommodation is generally better value, and the region’s many historic towns — Alnwick, Hexham, Berwick-upon-Tweed — feel less frenetic. Rain becomes more consistent as the season progresses, and evenings draw in sharply by October. November can be raw and grey, but it also offers a certain stark beauty on the open moorland and coast.
What to pack: Warm waterproof jacket, thermal base layers, sturdy waterproof walking boots, hat and gloves for evenings, a mid-weight fleece, quick-dry trousers, and a headtorch for late-afternoon walks.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in the Northeast is not for the faint-hearted, but it rewards those who embrace it. Temperatures sit between 2°C and 7°C, with frosts common and occasional snowfall on higher ground, particularly across the Pennines and the moors. The coast can feel wild and elemental, with dramatic skies and crashing seas that make for memorable walking if you are well prepared. Northumberland is one of England’s darkest regions, making it one of the best places in the country for stargazing — Kielder Observatory offers some extraordinary winter evenings under clear skies.
Newcastle transforms during the Christmas period, with festive markets, ice rinks, and a lively social scene. Durham’s cathedral and castle are especially striking against winter skies, and many heritage sites and museums welcome visitors throughout the season. Indoor attractions — the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art, the Sage Gateshead, the Laing Art Gallery — come into their own when the weather turns. Accommodation prices are low outside of the Christmas and New Year period, making winter excellent value.
What to pack: Heavy waterproof and windproof outer layer, thermal underlayers, insulated mid-layer, warm hat, gloves and scarf, waterproof ankle or knee boots with grip, thick socks, and a flask for hot drinks on outdoor excursions.
📊 Season at a Glance
🏆 Overall Best Time to Visit
For most visitors, late spring and early summer — roughly May to July — represent the sweet spot for visiting Northeast England. The weather offers its best combination of warmth, brightness, and manageable rainfall, the days are long, wildflowers are in bloom, and the coastline is glorious without being overrun. Those who are happy to pack an extra layer and accept the possibility of rain will find that September and early October run this period extremely close, offering remarkable autumn colour, far fewer crowds, and often very agreeable walking conditions. Ultimately, Northeast England is a destination that reveals something remarkable in every season — the decision is less about when to go and more about what kind of experience you are looking for.
More to Explore
