Mexico: Mexico City – Roma and La Condesa

January 29, 2020
Mexico City
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🌆 Mexico City: The Contradiction Capital

We spent a week in Mexico City, and honestly, we fell completely in love with the place. Now, I’ll admit, before we went, I had visions of gridlock, chaos, and queues stretching to the horizon — Mexico City is, after all, one of the most densely populated urban areas on the planet, home to around 22 million people in its greater metropolitan area, making it the largest city in North America and one of the largest in the entire world. Founded by the Aztecs in 1325 as Tenochtitlán on an island in Lake Texcoco, it was rebuilt by the Spanish conquistadors after Hernán Cortés’s rather brutal takeover in 1521, and has been growing relentlessly ever since. So, yes, busy doesn’t quite cover it.

And yet — and this is the bit that surprised us most — it didn’t feel that way. People buzzed around energetically, getting on with their lives at pace, but when we stopped to fumble about with a map or look suitably bewildered (which, in my case, is fairly often), someone would practically appear from nowhere to help with enormous enthusiasm. It was that kind of city. Contradiction after contradiction, and all the better for it.

📍 Where We Stayed — And Where We’d Stay Next Time

We based ourselves close to the historical centre, the Centro Histórico, which sits right on the site of old Tenochtitlán and is crammed with pre-Hispanic ruins, grand colonial architecture, and more UNESCO World Heritage-listed squares and churches than you can shake a churro at. It’s been the political and cultural heart of the country since the Aztec era, and wandering around it feels appropriately weighty.

But here’s a tip, free of charge: if we go back — and we will — we’d strongly consider staying instead in La Condesa or its neighbouring district, Roma. These two areas sit just to the west and south-west of the Centro Histórico, conveniently close but with an entirely different feel. Both neighbourhoods developed rapidly in the early twentieth century, becoming fashionable addresses for Mexico City’s growing middle classes, and both were substantially shaped by European architectural fashions of the day — particularly Art Deco and the more ornate Porfirian style that preceded it.

La Condesa, laid out around the 1900s and 1906s on the site of a former racecourse, has wide tree-lined streets arranged in circular patterns around leafy parks — Parque México and Parque España being the most beloved — and the whole place has a pleasingly relaxed, almost Parisian quality that sits oddly but wonderfully in the middle of one of the world’s great megacities. Roma, its neighbour, is similarly blessed with elegant avenues and handsome early twentieth-century buildings, and has developed over recent decades into something of a cultural and creative hub, full of independent galleries, bookshops, coffee places, and restaurants that take their food seriously.

Both areas were badly damaged in the devastating 1985 earthquake, which killed thousands across the city, and again in the 2017 earthquake. Reconstruction brought new investment, and the neighbourhoods emerged with their character largely intact — arguably stronger for it.

The boutique shopping is genuinely good in both areas, and the places to eat are, frankly, excellent — from proper Mexican cooking to some rather more internationally adventurous stuff. We spent a whole day wandering between the two, and it was one of the highlights of the entire trip.

Here is a walking map of how to get from A to B.

🏛️ Museo del Objeto del Objeto (MODO)

Located in Roma Norte, the Museo del Objeto del Objeto — mercifully shortened to MODO — occupies a rather lovely Art Deco mansion that is worth a look in its own right before you’ve even got through the door. Art Deco, for those who’ve forgotten their twentieth-century design history, was the sleek, geometric style that swept through architecture and the decorative arts from the 1920s onwards, and Mexico City embraced it with considerable enthusiasm. The building suits the museum’s purpose rather well.

What MODO sets out to do is tell the history of Mexico — its culture, its society, its everyday life — not through paintings or grand historical artefacts, but through objects. Ordinary objects. Extraordinary objects. Things people owned, used, discarded, and treasured. The museum has a permanent collection of more than 100,000 items to draw upon, which is, by any measure, a rather impressive hoard, and it uses these alongside additional resources to stage a rotating programme of temporary exhibitions. Its stated mission is to “promote the production of a culture of the unexpected and the uncommon,” which is exactly the sort of thing that sounds like it was written by a committee but actually makes perfect sense once you’re inside.

The practical upshot is that you can go back repeatedly and there will always be something new. Which, given that we could happily have spent twice as long in Roma alone, seems like a very good excuse indeed.

During our visit, MODO was running a temporary exhibition dedicated entirely to concert posters, spanning decades of musical and graphic history. It was the sort of thing you wander into thinking you’ll spend twenty minutes and emerge blinking into the afternoon light an hour later wondering where the time went.

The exhibition traced the evolution of the concert poster from its fairly functional origins — basically a printed announcement telling you who was playing, where, and when — through to the extraordinary graphic art form it has become today. In the early twentieth century, concert promotion was straightforward: bold type, basic layout, get the information across. But from the 1960s onwards, things got considerably more interesting.

The psychedelic poster movement that erupted out of San Francisco in the mid-1960s changed everything. Artists began producing work that was barely legible in the conventional sense but visually extraordinary — swirling lettering, electric colours, imagery drawn from Art Nouveau and, shall we say, considerable chemical inspiration. These weren’t just advertisements. They were collectible artworks almost from the moment they were printed.

Mexico brought its own rich visual traditions to the form — bold colours, political edge, the influence of the great muralist movement of the 1920s and 1930s — and seeing how those threads wove into popular music promotion across the decades was genuinely fascinating. Even for someone who thought he was just popping in before lunch.

Before you go, check their website at www.modo.museo to see what’s currently showing. Whatever they’ve got on next is unlikely to disappoint.

📚 Cafebrería El Péndulo

Cafebrería El Péndulo is a small chain of bookshop-restaurants — or perhaps restaurant-bookshops, depending on which you think deserves top billing — dotted across Mexico City and its metropolitan area. There are several branches scattered around the city, and the one we found ourselves in, located in Roma, is the newest of the lot.

Now, back home we’ve grown fairly used to the idea of a bookshop with a café bolted on. Waterstones has been at it for years, and very pleasant it is too — a flat white and a browse, maybe a bit of cake if you’re feeling reckless. But Cafebrería El Péndulo takes that concept, looks at it thoughtfully, and then quietly doubles down in a way that puts every British bookshop café firmly in its place.

This is a proper restaurant, serving proper food, inside what is also a proper bookshop. The shelves rise impressively around you, crammed with books on every conceivable subject — literature, art, history, design, politics — and the whole place hums with the particular kind of quiet contentment that only happens when people are simultaneously eating well and surrounded by things worth reading. There is something deeply, almost irrationally comforting about it. I couldn’t entirely explain why, but I didn’t feel the need to.

The Roma branch occupies a characteristically handsome space in keeping with the neighbourhood’s early twentieth-century architectural heritage — all high ceilings and a sense that the building has always had opinions. The menu is a good deal more ambitious than your average bookshop snack, and the coffee, naturally, is excellent. If the books all get a bit much — unlikely, but theoretically possible — there’s also a street-side terrace where you can sit and watch Roma go about its business, which is a perfectly good way to spend half an hour as well.

I loved this place unreservedly, which doesn’t happen to me all that often. On our next trip to Mexico City, I’ve already mentally earmarked a visit to at least one or two of their other branches. Research, obviously. Purely in the interests of the blog.

🌿 Forever Vegano

Walking the streets of the Roma district in Mexico City certainly got our tummies rumbling. For those who don’t know it, Roma is one of the city’s more refined barrios — a neighbourhood that began life as a grand residential enclave in the early twentieth century, built out during the Porfiriato era when the well-heeled classes decided they wanted tree-lined boulevards and French-style architecture. These days it’s all independent coffee shops and the sort of artsy crowd who carry canvas tote bags as a personality trait. It’s rather lovely, actually.

Luckily for us, Forever Vegano was on hand — which was handy, given that we follow a plant-based diet. The storefront is hard to miss, though I almost walked straight past it. The signage, done in a swirling sixties-style font — the sort you’d expect on a Woodstock poster — was genuinely quite tricky to read, especially in the fierce midday sun that Mexico City does so well. My eyes aren’t what they were.

Once inside, it was a different world. Much darker, moodier, with a pleasing tinge of funkiness that the bright street outside gave absolutely no hint of. More to the point, it was full of locals — always a very good sign in our books. We found ourselves a little dark corner to hide in — our natural habitat — and proceeded to order. The menu was fairly expansive; if you’re not after a full meal, a coffee, one of their freshly pressed juices, and a pastry does the job perfectly well. We, being somewhat greedy, opted for a pasta dish, a traditional mole and a couple of smoothies.

The food was excellent — beautifully presented without being fussy, with delicate and genuinely interesting flavours. Thoughtful little additions of cream, avocado and nuts added some nuanced textures and kept things from feeling predictable.

My only grumbles were that the prices were comparable to what we’d expect back in the States — which felt faintly cheeky in Mexico City — and the service was not exactly express. But we were in no hurry.

🍦 Helado Obscuro — Ice Cream with a Kick

One of our great weaknesses has always been ice cream. Even after we made the switch to a plant-based diet, we managed to find a workaround — the dairy-free options have got genuinely good, and I’ll admit I became rather embarrassingly addicted to them. So when we heard about a place called Helado Obscuro, the ears pricked up. There was, however, a slight snag. They don’t do dairy-free.

Now, we do try to stick to plant-based eating. We do. But there are moments when we’re on holiday and the willpower simply packs its bags and leaves without a note on the kitchen table. We’ve come to think of these as diplomatic incidents rather than failures. Helado Obscuro felt very much like one of those occasions where we were going to fall off the rails and not feel even slightly bad about it.

Here’s the thing — it wasn’t even really the ice cream that drew us in. It was the flavours. Not your standard vanilla-and-strawberry situation. The menu reads less like an ice cream list and more like a cocktail menu at a rather adventurous bar. A few examples that caught our eye:

The Blind Melon — Green melon, Japanese melon liquor and mezcal Bulleit Milky Way — Milk chocolate, caramel and Bulleit whiskey Fraile’s Tear — Crystallised and fresh fig, macadamia, Frangelico and Brandy Magno

You may have noticed a theme. Every single one contains alcohol, and in fact the vast majority of Helado Obscuro’s flavours are built around some form of booze. They do offer a handful of alcohol-free options — mainly, it seemed, for people who’ve brought children along and can’t really explain why their dessert smells of bourbon. The sensible flavours exist; they’re perfectly respectable, and almost nobody orders them. Yummy.

🏪 Mercado Medellín

Sitting right on the border of Roma Norte, the Mercado Medellín occupies a solid block of real estate that it fills with rather impressive enthusiasm. Its official name, for those who care about such things, is the Mercado Melchor Ocampo — named after a prominent 19th-century Mexican liberal politician and lawyer who was executed in 1861 during the particularly grim period of Mexican history known as the War of Reform. Nobody calls it that, of course. Everyone calls it Mercado Medellín, because it runs along Calle Medellín, which is the sort of sensible, no-nonsense approach to naming things that the British gave up on centuries ago.

What makes it genuinely interesting — and rather different from the other markets scattered around Mexico City — is the cultural mix. Yes, there are plenty of Mexican traders going about their business, but dotted among them is a healthy number of vendors who hail from South America and the Caribbean. Colombians, Cubans, Venezuelans — people who’ve brought their own ingredients, flavours and general outlook on life with them. It gives the whole place a slightly different energy. Less purely Mexican, more broadly Latin American, and all the better for it.

We visited in late November, which, as timing goes, turned out to be rather good. The holiday season was well underway and the market had gone all-out with decorations — bright, cheerful, slightly overwhelming, hanging from every available surface between the produce stalls and food stands like someone had been given a budget and absolutely no restraint. Día de Gracias, Navidad, general festive enthusiasm — it all blurred together rather pleasantly.

And the food. Several stands dotted around the market serve up things you won’t find in your average Mexican comedor — dishes and drinks from further afield that are well worth investigating if you can find a spare stool.

🌿 Parque México

Crossing the border from Roma Norte takes you into La Condesa, and the difference hits you almost immediately. Roma Norte has the feel of a neighbourhood still finding itself — a little edgy and raw, full of street art and independent coffee shops decorated by someone who’d spent too long on Pinterest. La Condesa, by contrast, has already arrived. It carries itself with the quiet confidence of a district that has been fashionable for decades and knows it perfectly well.

Developed primarily in the 1920s and 1930s during Mexico City’s great urban expansion, La Condesa was designed as a residential suburb for the city’s wealthier classes, its layout heavily influenced by European Art Deco and French urbanism. The avenues are noticeably wider and airier than those in Roma Norte, with mature trees lining the pavements on both sides, their canopies providing the kind of shade you are genuinely grateful for when the midday sun is doing its worst.

Tucked between the two districts — almost as if it couldn’t decide which one it wanted to be — sits the smaller area of Hipódromo. The name is a clue to its past: this was once the site of a horse-racing track, redeveloped in the 1920s into the residential neighbourhood it is today. The streets were planned around the old oval of the track, which is why the roads follow pleasingly curved lines rather than the usual grid.

And it is here that we found Parque México. This is a large, genuinely lovely green space — lush lawns, ponds, tall trees casting proper shade, and all manner of interesting little pathways and tucked-away corners that reward aimless wandering. It’s the sort of park where you set out for a quick stroll and emerge ninety minutes later, slightly confused but perfectly content.

One of the unexpected delights was discovering that the southern half of the park is quite literally dog central for Mexico City. A large, properly fenced dog park attracts dozens of dogs and their owners at virtually any hour of the day. Particularly entertaining were the professional dog walkers — paseadores — who arrive with what can only be described as a small army of dogs in tow. Five or six dogs per walker, heading off in slightly different directions simultaneously. Impressively managed, for the most part, though a fair number of walkers appeared to be paying considerably more attention to their phones than to their canine charges. The dogs seemed happy enough, so perhaps we’re being uncharitable.

We also stumbled across organised dog training classes running inside the park, with fifteen to twenty dogs going through their paces at a time. These are run by local pet shops: owners drop their dogs off in the morning, the trainers bring the whole class to the park, and everyone gets put through their drills on the grass. The dogs get exercise and socialisation, the trainers get a decent venue, and the park gets an entertaining daily show, entirely free of charge. Everybody wins.

… In summary

La Condesa and Roma are very charming areas with plenty of great places to shop, eat and stay. They are conveniently located for exploring the historic centre of Mexico City as well as the nearby Chapultepec Park. We’ll definitely be looking to stay in one of these districts next time we are in the city.

Getting Around Mexico City

Mexico City (CDMX) is one of the world’s great megacities — sprawling, vibrant, and surprisingly easy to navigate once you know what you’re doing. With over 21 million people in the greater metropolitan area, transport options are plentiful, ranging from one of the world’s busiest metro systems to app-based taxis and even cable cars. Here’s everything you need to know about getting in and getting around.

✈️ Arriving: Know Your Airport

Mexico City is served by two international airports, and confusing them is a surprisingly common — and costly — mistake.

Benito Juárez International Airport (MEX/AICM) is the main hub, located just 13 km east of the historic centre. The vast majority of international flights land here. It has two terminals — Terminal 1 (older, busier) and Terminal 2 (more modern) — connected by a free shuttle and the Metro.

Felipe Ángeles International Airport (NLU/AIFA) is the newer, secondary airport, situated around 45 km north of the city centre in the State of Mexico. It primarily handles budget domestic carriers such as Volaris and VivaAerobus, along with some regional international routes. Always double-check your airport code before travelling — MEX and NLU are on opposite sides of the city and a transfer between them takes upwards of 90 minutes.

🚇 From MEX Airport into the City

By Metro: The cheapest option by far. Terminal 1 is directly connected to the Metro system (Line 5, Hangares station). A single ride costs around 5 pesos (roughly 20p). However, it’s not recommended if you’re travelling with large luggage or during rush hour — the carriages get extremely crowded.

By Metrobús: Line 4 connects both terminals to the city centre. It’s more comfortable than the Metro with luggage and costs 6 pesos per journey using a travel card.

By Uber or DiDi: The most practical option for most visitors. Download the app before you travel, and request your ride once you’re in the arrivals hall. Fares into central neighbourhoods such as Roma, Condesa, or Polanco typically range from 150–300 pesos (£6–£12), depending on traffic. Avoid accepting offers from drivers who approach you inside the terminal.

By Official Airport Taxi: Pre-paid taxi desks are located in the arrivals area of both terminals. Purchase your ticket at the booth before proceeding to the taxi rank. Fares are fixed by zone. This is safe and straightforward, though slightly pricier than app-based rides. Do not accept a ride from anyone who approaches you without a pre-paid ticket.

🚌 From AIFA Airport into the City

AIFA’s location makes it a longer journey into the city centre, so plan your time accordingly.

By Train (Tren Felipe Ángeles): Launched in April 2026, this new commuter rail service connects AIFA directly to Buenavista station in the north of Mexico City. The journey takes around 40–50 minutes, and from Buenavista you can connect to the Metro and Metrobús network. A promotional fare of 45 pesos applies for the airport leg. This is now the quickest and most reliable public transport option from AIFA.

By Bus (Aerofaro Shuttle): A shuttle service runs from AIFA arrivals to Buenavista station, from where you can connect to the wider Metro network. Budget approximately 90–120 minutes total travel time to central areas.

By Uber or DiDi: Available from AIFA, but journey times into the city centre can be 60–90 minutes or more depending on traffic. Expect fares of 400–600 pesos (£16–£24).

🚇 The Metro (Sistema de Transporte Colectivo)

The Metro is the backbone of public transport in Mexico City — one of the largest metro systems in the Americas with 12 lines and 195 stations spanning over 200 kilometres. It’s fast, efficient, and extraordinarily affordable at just 5 pesos (roughly 20p) per journey, regardless of distance.

Most major tourist attractions — the Zócalo, Chapultepec Park, Coyoacán, and the Palacio de Bellas Artes — are easily reachable by Metro. The system uses a combination of numbers and colour-coded lines, and each station has its own distinctive icon (helpful if you’re still finding your feet with Spanish).

Tips for visitors:

Avoid rush hour (7:00–9:00 and 17:00–19:00) — carriages become extremely crowded and pickpocketing risk increases
Keep valuables secure and avoid using your phone openly
Look out for carriages reserved for women and children, marked with pink signs — these are particularly in force during peak hours
Purchase a Tarjeta de Movilidad Integrada (MI Card) for 15 pesos; this rechargeable card works across the Metro, Metrobús, Cablebús, light rail, and trolleybus networks

🌐 metro.cdmx.gob.mx

🚌 Metrobús

The Metrobús is a network of articulated buses that run in dedicated lanes, making them faster than standard city buses. There are several lines covering key corridors, including the famous Avenida Insurgentes (Line 1 — one of the longest bus rapid transit routes in the world) and Avenida Reforma. A journey costs 6 pesos and requires a travel card to board.

The Metrobús is particularly useful for travelling along the main north–south and east–west axes of the city, and connects conveniently with the Metro at many interchange points. Line 4 also serves both terminals at Benito Juárez Airport.

🌐 metrobus.cdmx.gob.mx

🚡 Cablebús (Cable Car)

One of Mexico City’s most distinctive and photogenic forms of transport, the Cablebús is a network of cable car lines operating in the hillier outskirts of the city. There are currently three lines, primarily serving working-class neighbourhoods in the east and south that have limited Metro access.

While not a practical daily commuter option for most visitors staying in central neighbourhoods, taking a ride on the Cablebús — particularly Line 1 in Iztapalapa — offers spectacular panoramic views across the city and a glimpse of everyday life beyond the tourist trail. Fares are 7 pesos with a travel card.

🌐 ste.cdmx.gob.mx

📱 Ride-Hailing Apps: Uber, DiDi & Cabify

For many visitors, app-based rides represent the sweet spot between safety, convenience, and value. Uber is the most widely used and reliable, with a large fleet and consistent pricing. DiDi (a Chinese-owned competitor) often undercuts Uber on price and is widely available. Cabify is another reputable option, particularly favoured for longer journeys.

All three apps show you the route, the fare, and the driver’s details before you confirm — a significant safety advantage over hailing a taxi on the street. You’ll need mobile data, so consider purchasing a local SIM card or setting up an eSIM before or upon arrival.

App-based rides are especially recommended for: journeys after dark, trips to and from bus terminals or the airport with luggage, and any destination not conveniently served by the Metro.

🌐 uber.com | didiglobal.com | cabify.com

🚕 Taxis

Mexico City has one of the largest taxi fleets in the world, and the iconic pink-and-white cabs are a familiar sight on every street. However, visitors should exercise caution.

Do not hail taxis from the street. Unofficial taxis — known colloquially as “piratas” — can pose safety risks and overcharge passengers.

Sitio taxis (taxis from authorised stands) are the recommended on-street option. They are registered, carry fixed fares, and can be found at airports, hotels, shopping centres, and major tourist sites. You can also ask your hotel or restaurant to call a registered taxi for you.

For most practical purposes, using Uber or DiDi is safer and simpler than locating a trustworthy sitio taxi.

🚲 Ecobici (Bike Share)

For visitors staying in central neighbourhoods — Roma, Condesa, Polanco, Juárez, or Centro Histórico — Ecobici is a genuinely excellent way to cover short distances without sitting in traffic. The network has over 689 stations and nearly 10,000 bikes, making it one of the most extensive bike-share systems in the Americas.

Rides of up to 45 minutes are included in the subscription fee, and you can return the bike to any station. Day passes start at around $5 USD (approximately £4), with three-day and weekly options also available. Registration is done via the app or website — no passport or lengthy paperwork required at modern stations, just a credit card. The MI Card also links to your Ecobici account.

Sundays are a particularly good day to cycle — Avenida Reforma is closed to traffic and given over entirely to cyclists and pedestrians.

🌐 ecobici.cdmx.gob.mx

🚌 Long-Distance Buses (for Day Trips & Onward Travel)

If you’re planning to visit nearby cities — Puebla, Oaxaca, Guadalajara, or Teotihuacán — Mexico City’s long-distance bus network is excellent. The main terminals are:

TAPO (Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente) — east of the city, served by Metro Line 1 (San Lázaro station). Good for Puebla, Oaxaca, and the Gulf Coast.
Terminal Central del Norte — north of the city, reached via Metro Line 5. Good for Guadalajara, Querétaro, and the northern states.
Terminal Poniente — west of the city (Metro Line 1, Observatorio station). Good for Toluca and western destinations.

ADO is the premier intercity bus operator, offering comfortable, air-conditioned coaches with allocated seating. Booking online in advance is recommended for popular routes.

🌐 ado.com.mx

🚶 Walking

Do not overlook the simplest option. Several of Mexico City’s best neighbourhoods reward leisurely exploration on foot. Roma Norte and Roma Sur, Condesa, Centro Histórico, Coyoacán, Polanco, and San Ángel are all walkable districts with plenty to see at street level. The altitude (2,240 metres above sea level) may leave you slightly breathless at first — take it steadily on your first day or two.

🗺️ Useful Apps for Getting Around

Google Maps — reliable for Metro, Metrobús, and walking directions
Moovit — excellent for real-time public transport updates and route planning
Metro CDMX — detailed Metro map, station information, and journey times
Uber / DiDi / Cabify — essential for ride-hailing
Ecobici — for bike-share planning and unlocking bikes

💳 The MI Card (Tarjeta de Movilidad Integrada)

If you plan to use public transport more than once or twice, the MI Card is well worth picking up. It costs just 15 pesos and can be topped up with credit to use across the Metro, Metrobús, Cablebús, light rail, and trolleybus networks. It also links to the Ecobici bike-share system. Cards are available at Metro stations and Metrobús stops throughout the city. There is a maximum balance of 500 pesos on the card at any one time.

Mexico City’s transport network is, in truth, one of its great assets — vast, affordable, and remarkably well-connected for a city of its size. With a little planning and the right apps on your phone, getting around is far less daunting than the map might initially suggest.

The best time to visit Mexico City

🌸 Spring – Dry Season (March to May)

Spring is widely regarded as the finest time to visit Mexico City. The rainy season has not yet arrived, temperatures are pleasantly warm, and the city buzzes with cultural energy. Daytime highs hover between 22°C and 26°C, with cool evenings that rarely dip below 10°C. Skies are predominantly clear, making it ideal for exploring open-air sites such as Teotihuacán, the Zócalo, and Chapultepec Park.

March and April bring Semana Santa (Holy Week), one of Mexico’s most important religious observances, when the city fills with processions and festivities. Crowds are noticeable but not overwhelming outside of the Easter weekend peak. May sees temperatures climbing and the humidity building ahead of the summer rains — visit early in the month for the best of the season.

What to pack: Lightweight layers, a light jacket for evenings, breathable walking shoes, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a reusable water bottle. A compact umbrella is useful from late April.

⛈️ Summer – Wet Season (June to August)

Summer brings the rainy season, though this need not be a deterrent. Rain typically falls in concentrated afternoon and evening downpours lasting one to two hours, leaving mornings largely clear and pleasant. Temperatures remain mild — generally 18°C to 24°C — and the city’s parks and surrounding valleys turn a vivid green. Hotel rates are often lower, and the city’s cultural calendar remains full, with exhibitions, concerts, and street festivals running throughout the season.

The main inconvenience is the afternoon rain, which can cause traffic disruption and occasional flooding in low-lying areas. Planning outdoor activities for the morning is the sensible approach. July and August also coincide with school holidays in Mexico, so family-orientated attractions tend to be busier.

What to pack: A compact waterproof jacket or poncho, quick-dry clothing, waterproof footwear or sandals, light layers, insect repellent, and a small daypack with a dry bag for electronics.

🍂 Autumn – Transition Season (September to November)

Autumn is one of the most atmospheric and culturally rewarding times to visit. September marks the beginning of the end of the rainy season, with rainfall gradually tapering through October and drying considerably by November. Temperatures settle between 15°C and 22°C — cooler than summer but still comfortable during the day.

November is the undoubted highlight of the autumn season. Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead), celebrated on 1 and 2 November, transforms Mexico City into a spectacle of marigold-draped altars, candlelit processions, and vibrant public gatherings. The Zócalo and Mixquic are especially dramatic. Tourist numbers are rising but the city retains a more relaxed atmosphere compared with peak winter months.

What to pack: A warm layer or light wool jumper, a waterproof jacket for early September, comfortable walking shoes, festival-appropriate clothing for Día de Muertos, and a camera or smartphone with ample storage.

❄️ Winter – Dry Season (December to February)

Winter is the driest period in Mexico City and brings some of the clearest skies of the year, making it excellent for photography and open-air excursions. Daytime temperatures range from around 18°C to 20°C, though cold fronts known as nortes can push overnight temperatures close to or below 5°C, particularly in January and February.

December is the busiest and most festive month, centred on Las Posadas (16–24 December), Christmas, and New Year. The city is richly decorated, markets are in full swing, and the atmosphere is convivial. January and February are considerably quieter, representing something of a hidden gem — dry, clear, and calm, without the holiday crowds.

What to pack: A medium-weight coat or insulated jacket, warm layers for evenings and early mornings, a scarf, comfortable smart-casual clothing for festive events, and good walking shoes or boots.

📊 Season at a Glance

✅ Overall Best Time to Visit

The optimum time to visit Mexico City is from late October through to early May, taking in the tail end of autumn and the full dry season. Within that window, November stands out for its extraordinary cultural richness — Día de Muertos is a once-in-a-lifetime experience — whilst March and April offer the finest combination of weather, manageable crowds, and vibrant street life. Travellers seeking quieter streets and crisp clear skies will find January and February particularly rewarding. Mexico City rewards visits at almost any time of year given its altitude, which moderates temperatures year-round, but avoiding the peak of the wet season in June and July will make outdoor exploration considerably more enjoyable.

Vegan Dining in Mexico City

Mexico City has transformed into one of Latin America’s most exciting destinations for plant-based eating. From buzzing street-food carts in Roma Norte to cosy neighbourhood cafés, the city offers an extraordinary range of fully vegan options that rival — and often surpass — their meat-based counterparts.

🌮 Por Siempre Vegana Taquería — Food Cart & Restaurant

One of the most famous names in Mexico City’s vegan scene, Por Siempre Vegana has built a devoted following for its authentic Mexican street tacos made entirely from plants. The menu is extensive, featuring classics such as al pastor, barbacoa, chicharrón, suadero, and bistek — all crafted from soya, seitan, or wheat protein. Sweet treats like cupcakes and doughnuts round off the offering. The original food cart operates on a pavement in Roma Norte and gets very busy at peak times, with queues sometimes stretching to 30 minutes. A sit-down taquería location on Coahuila opened subsequently.

Location: Food cart: Calle Manzanillo 18, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX. Taquería: Coahuila 169, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
Website: porsiempreveganataqueria.com (best reached via Instagram: @porsiempreveganataqueria)
Phone: +52 55 6116 6266
Opening hours:
- Food cart: Mon–Sat 1:00 pm – 11:00 pm
- Taquería: Mon–Sat 2:00 pm – midnight; Sun closed

🌸 La Pitahaya Vegana — Restaurant

La Pitahaya Vegana is instantly recognisable for its iconic pink tortillas, tinted with beetroot and chard, which have made it something of a social media sensation. The menu goes far beyond aesthetics, however — dishes such as Baja tacos, mole mixteco, enfrijoladas, enchiladas, and a pink tofu burger are all prepared with fresh organic ingredients and a genuine commitment to sustainability (the kitchen composts organic waste and recycles inorganics). The bilingual menu and friendly, English-speaking staff make it welcoming to international visitors, and delivery across Mexico City is available. The restaurant is small, so arrive early to secure a seat.

Location: Calle Querétaro 90, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX (second location: Miguel A. de Quevedo 353, Mercado Roma Coyoacán)
Website: lapitahayavegana.mx
Phone: +52 55 3902 7792
Opening hours (Roma Norte):
- Mon, Wed–Fri: 2:00 pm – 9:00 pm
- Sat–Sun: 11:00 am – 9:00 pm
- Closed Tuesday

🍔 Forever Vegano — Restaurant

Forever Vegano (also known simply as “Forever”) is a well-established all-vegan restaurant in Roma Norte with a boho, psychedelic-chic aesthetic that makes it popular for brunch, dates, and casual dinners alike. The menu takes a creative, plant-based approach to Mexican and fusion cooking — standout dishes include the Forever burger made from beans, raw coastal ceviche with coconut, mushroom aguachile, tacos al pastor with marinated mushrooms, and vegan pizza. Cocktails and craft beverages complement the food nicely. A second branch is located in the Polanco neighbourhood. The restaurant is dog-friendly and offers outdoor dining.

Location: Calle Guanajuato 54, esquina Mérida, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
Website: forevervegano.com
Phone: +52 55 6726 0975
Opening hours:
- Mon–Sat: 9:00 am – 11:00 pm
- Sun: 9:00 am – 6:00 pm

☕ Café Vegetal — Café

Café Vegetal is a much-loved, fully vegan café with a warm, cosy atmosphere perfect for a slow breakfast or a working lunch. Its menu spans sweet and savoury ground — expect pancakes, chilaquiles, scrambled tofu, molletes, cinnamon rolls, a wide selection of cakes, and a thoughtfully curated drinks list featuring organic coffee, matcha, almond smoothies, and kombucha. The interiors — wooden furniture, lush greenery — create an inviting neighbourhood feel. Two locations serve the city: one in Narvarte Poniente and one in Coyoacán, not far from the Frida Kahlo Museum. The café is pet-friendly and offers outdoor seating.

Location:
- Narvarte: Enrique Rébsamen 364, Narvarte Poniente, Benito Juárez, 03020 CDMX
- Coyoacán: Av. Río Churubusco 310, local C, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, 04100 CDMX
Website: cafevegetal.com
Phone: Not publicly listed — contact via Instagram @cafevegetalmx
Opening hours:
- Tue–Sun: 9:00 am – 10:00 pm
- Closed Monday

🐟 Paxil – Plant Based Seafood — Food Cart

Paxil is one of the most talked-about and original vegan food stalls in Mexico City, drawing visitors from around the world for its entirely plant-based take on Mexican coastal seafood cuisine. The owner has developed remarkable techniques to recreate the flavours and textures of the sea — tomato becomes raw tuna, various mushrooms stand in for fish, and the results are genuinely astonishing. The menu includes fish tacos, tostadas with “vegatún,” the signature Paxil taco, the Takeshi (a sushi-inspired dish with nori, rice and tamarind sauce), zarandeado, ceviche, and vegan fish and chips. The bright blue and white stall is hard to miss, and queues form quickly at weekends.

Location: Orizaba 83 (4th stall), Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
Website: Instagram: @paxil.plantbasedseafood (no standalone website)
Phone: +52 55 3035 5144
Opening hours:
- Mon, Wed–Sun: 1:30 pm – 7:00 pm
- Closed Tuesday

🌯 María Bonita Veganos — Food Cart

María Bonita Veganos is a beloved vegan street-food stall in Roma Norte, celebrated for its hearty, affordable, and deeply flavourful food. The menu is a highlight reel of Mexican street classics — massive burritos, tortas (particularly the crispy milanesa torta, a firm favourite), gringas, tacos, hamburgers, and hot dogs, all made with alt-meat substitutes. Daily rotating lunch specials offer a soup, main, salad, and drink at very reasonable prices. The portions are generous, the staff are friendly, and there is a small counter where you can eat on the spot, or you can take your food to nearby Plaza Río de Janeiro.

Location: Calle Durango 65, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
Website: Instagram: @mariabonita.veganos (no standalone website)
Phone: +52 55 8863 5880
Opening hours:
- Daily: 12:00 pm – 6:00 pm (hours may vary — check Instagram for upd

Where to stay in Mexico City

1. City Centro Cuidad de Mexico

City Centro by Marriott Ciudad de México sits in the historic heart of Mexico City, on Republica de Uruguay in the Centro district. The building has real heritage credentials — it was designed by the Mariscal brothers, the same architects behind the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and the original ceilings, floors and one of the city’s oldest lifts are still in place. The hotel has 44 rooms, an outdoor rooftop pool, a gym, a restaurant and a bar. Madero Street and the Torre Latinoamericana are a short walk away, and Benito Juárez International Airport is around ten minutes by car. It is a solid, characterful mid-range option for travellers who want to be close to the main sights without staying in a bland business hotel.

2. Hotel Villa Condesa

Hotel Villa Condesa is a small boutique hotel with 15 rooms, set in a converted mansion in Roma Norte, one of Mexico City’s most liveable neighbourhoods. The area is walkable, lined with tree-shaded streets, independent restaurants and cafés, and is well connected by metro. Rooms are individually decorated with classic touches — wooden floors, sash windows — and the better ones include balconies overlooking the interior courtyard. Breakfast is included and well regarded by guests. There is an on-site restaurant serving Mexican and international dishes, a rooftop terrace, a garden, and bike rental for those who want to explore the city under their own steam. Staff consistently receive strong reviews for being attentive and helpful. Chapultepec Park and Paseo de la Reforma are both within easy reach on foot.

3. Hotel MX Roma

Hotel MX Roma sits on Calle Mérida 81 in Roma Norte, one of Mexico City’s most appealing neighbourhoods for eating, drinking, and general wandering. Part of the Wyndham Trademark Collection, it is a four-star, smoke-free property with 46 air-conditioned rooms, a rooftop terrace, a gym, and a squash court. Free breakfast and Wi-Fi are included, and there is paid parking on site. The location earns consistently high marks from guests — Insurgentes metro station is a short walk away, and the restaurant Rosetta is practically on the doorstep. It is not a large or lavish hotel, but as a well-priced, well-placed base for exploring the city, it does the job reliably well..