Toronto is Canada's largest and most multicultural city combining an iconic waterfront skyline with diverse neighbourhoods vibrant food markets converted Victorian warehouses and easy access to island beaches making it one of North America's most rewarding and endlessly varied urban destinations.
Canada: Ontario – Ottawa
Contents
1. About Ottawa
2. Things to do
– Climb Parliament Hill and Tour the Centre Block
– Skate or Cycle the Rideau Canal
– Explore the National Gallery of Canada
– Visit the Canadian Museum of Nature
– Take a Day Trip to Montebello and the Ottawa Valley
– Watch the Sunset from Major’s Hill Park
– Photograph the ByWard Market
– Tour Rideau Hall
– Visit the Canadian War Museum
– Browse the Sparks Street Pedestrian Mall
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. Best time to visit
6. Where to stay
About Ottawa
Ottawa sat quietly on the south bank of the Ottawa River for thousands of years before anyone thought to make it a capital. The Algonquin people, who called this stretch of river Kichi Sibi — the Great River — had been fishing its rapids and trading along its banks long before a single European set foot in the region. The first permanent settler of European descent was Philemon Wright, a Massachusetts-born entrepreneur who arrived in 1800 and established a lumber operation on the Quebec side of the river at what became Hull. The Ottawa Valley quickly turned into one of the most productive timber regions on the continent, and for the first half of the nineteenth century this was a rough, sawdust-scented corner of Upper Canada, not obviously destined for greatness.
It was Queen Victoria who changed all that. In 1857, faced with the thoroughly tedious problem of choosing between Montreal, Kingston, Toronto and Quebec City — all of which had been lobbying for the honour with varying degrees of desperation — she simply picked Bytown, a place most of the candidates had barely considered. Bytown had been incorporated as Ottawa only four years earlier, in 1855, and its principal selling points were that it sat on the border between English-speaking Canada West and French-speaking Canada East, and that it was sufficiently far from the American border to make it harder to attack in the event of another war with the United States. Not the most glamorous origin story, one has to admit, but it worked. The city became Canada’s capital in 1867 upon Confederation, and it has been running the country ever since — with occasional interruptions for parliamentary recesses, of course.
What we found in Ottawa was a city that wears its political role with a kind of easy confidence that London, say, sometimes struggles to manage. The Gothic Revival towers of Parliament Hill rise magnificently above the river, the Rideau Canal threads through the centre of town like a liquid park, and the museums — and there are rather a lot of them — are almost all free of charge, which is either an act of extraordinary generosity or a very clever way of ensuring that Canadians know their own history. Probably both. The city is genuinely bilingual in a way that feels natural rather than performed, French and English signs appearing side by side everywhere you look, and the food scene has quietly caught up with Toronto in ambition if not in sheer volume. We came expecting to feel like we were visiting a slightly dull civil service town. We left rather impressed.
Things to do
Climb Parliament Hill and Tour the Centre Block
Skate or Cycle the Rideau Canal
The Rideau Canal runs 202 kilometres from Ottawa south to Kingston on Lake Ontario, making it the longest continuously operating canal system in North America and — as of 2007 — a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built between 1826 and 1832 under Lieutenant Colonel John By of the Royal Engineers, the canal was dug largely by hand through malarial swamps and solid granite, hundreds of workers died in the process, and By was subsequently hauled before Parliament and criticised for overspending — which, given what he actually built, feels rather ungrateful. In summer the canal is used for boating, kayaking and cycling, but in winter the Ottawa section freezes solid and becomes the world’s longest naturally frozen skating rink, a Guinness World Record it has held since the rink first opened in 1970–71. On a good day, with snowbanks piled high and BeaverTails kiosks doing a roaring trade in fried dough, it is one of those experiences that genuinely lives up to the billing — though warming temperatures have shortened the reliable skating window, so check the NCC website before lacing up.
- Location: Rideau Canal, Ottawa — main access points at the National Arts Centre locks and Dow’s Lake
- Website: ncc-ccn.gc.ca
- Hours: Open year-round; skating season typically January–February (weather-dependent)
- Fees: Free to skate; skate rentals available at the canal
Explore the National Gallery of Canada
The National Gallery is housed in a striking building designed by Moshe Safdie and opened in 1988, its glass and granite towers engaged in what looks like a spirited architectural conversation with Parliament Hill across the way, with an enormous bronze spider by Louise Bourgeois — Maman, standing 9 metres tall — crouching on the lawn outside like something from a rather good nightmare. Inside, the Group of Seven are represented more comprehensively here than anywhere else, their canvases of the Canadian wilderness all vivid colour and sweeping skies that still feel genuinely electric when seen as a proper collection. The European and American galleries include significant works by Rembrandt, El Greco and Andy Warhol, the Indigenous art collection in the spectacular Great Hall is among the most thoughtful we encountered anywhere in Canada, and entry to the permanent collection is entirely free — which in central Ottawa feels almost suspiciously generous.
- Location: 380 Sussex Drive, Ottawa
- Website: gallery.ca
- Hours: Wednesday–Sunday 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM, Thursday until 8:00 PM; closed Mondays and Tuesdays
- Fees: Free for permanent collection; fees apply for special exhibitions
Visit the Canadian Museum of Nature
The Canadian Museum of Nature occupies the Victoria Memorial Museum Building, a magnificent Château-style pile dating to 1912 that looks from the outside as though it ought to contain a very serious government ministry — it contains dinosaurs instead, which is arguably better. The building served briefly as an emergency Parliament after the Centre Block fire of 1916, the House of Commons meeting in the auditorium while the rubble was still warm, which tells you something about Canadian pragmatism. Inside, the galleries cover deep time, life through the ages, birds, mammals, minerals and gems with a thoroughness that rewards a proper half-day, the dinosaur gallery being the crowd-pleaser with a Tyrannosaurus and specimens from Alberta’s Dinosaur Provincial Park. The Water Gallery and the Canada Goose Arctic Gallery are both excellent, children go absolutely berserk for the place, and in our experience that is usually a reliable indicator of quality.
- Location: 240 McLeod Street, Ottawa
- Website: nature.ca
- Hours: Daily 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, Thursday until 8:00 PM
- Fees: CAD 22.50 (adult) / CAD 19.75 (senior) / CAD 15.50 (youth 3–17); under 3s free
Take a Day Trip to Montebello and the Ottawa Valley
The Ottawa Valley extends for the better part of 300 kilometres to the north-west of the city and contains more history and natural beauty than most visitors ever make time for, the most obvious day trip being Montebello, about 75 kilometres along the north shore of the Ottawa River into Quebec, home to the Fairmont Le Château Montebello — a vast log-built resort that opened in 1930 and remains the largest log structure in the world, a claim so unlikely-sounding that we stopped to verify it on the spot (it is true). Closer to the city, Gatineau Park — 361 square kilometres of Canadian Shield forest and lakes immediately across the river — is a proper wilderness escape twenty minutes from Parliament Hill, and contains the Mackenzie King Estate, preserving the summer retreat of Canada’s longest-serving Prime Minister, who spent over 21 years in office between 1921 and 1948 and filled his garden with fragments of demolished Gothic stonework from London, giving the place an atmosphere somewhere between a picturesque folly and a very tidy archaeological site.
- Location: Gatineau Park — main entrance at 33 Scott Road, Chelsea, QC
- Website: ncc-ccn.gc.ca
- Hours: Gatineau Park open year-round; Mackenzie King Estate open seasonally, typically May–October
- Fees: Day passes from CAD 11.50 (adult) for Gatineau Park; Mackenzie King Estate included
Watch the Sunset from Major’s Hill Park
Major’s Hill Park is the oldest public park in Ottawa, established in 1874 on land previously occupied by Colonel John By — the same man who built the Rideau Canal and was subsequently criticised for his trouble — and it sits on a bluff above the Ottawa River giving an excellent view across to Gatineau and the Québec hills beyond. The sunset from the park’s western edge, with the Parliament Buildings rising to the left and the river stretching away to the right, was one of the more quietly spectacular moments we had in Ottawa, a free and low-key pleasure in a city that is rather good at providing them. On Canada Day — the 1st of July — the park becomes the epicentre of the national celebrations, with fireworks over the river and crowds that make Trafalgar Square on New Year’s Eve look relatively sedate, so plan accordingly if you happen to be visiting around that date.
- Location: Major’s Hill Park, Sussex Drive, Ottawa
- Website: ncc-ccn.gc.ca
- Hours: Open 24 hours
- Fees: Free
Photograph the ByWard Market
The ByWard Market is Ottawa’s oldest neighbourhood, named after Colonel By and established in 1826 as a public market serving the labourers building the Rideau Canal, and it has been in continuous commercial use ever since — one of the oldest urban markets in Canada and one that has managed the transition from functional food market to tourist attraction without losing its soul entirely, which is more than can be said for some of its equivalents. The central market building houses food stalls, cheese sellers, flower vendors and maple syrup purveyors alongside BeaverTails stalls — the Ottawa-born fried pastry now as associated with the city as the Peace Tower itself — while the surrounding streets are lined with restaurants, bars and independent boutiques that stay open well into the evening. We went back twice: once for the BeaverTails, and once because we had simply forgotten how pleasant it was.
- Location: ByWard Market Square, Ottawa
- Website: byward-market.com
- Hours: Market building daily 6:00 AM – 6:00 PM; surrounding restaurants and bars open later
- Fees: Free to browse
Tour Rideau Hall
Rideau Hall has served as the official residence and workplace of the Governor General of Canada since 1867, originally a Regency-style villa built in the 1830s for businessman Thomas MacKay and extended repeatedly since into a sprawling complex of reception rooms, ballrooms and state apartments considerably more impressive inside than its conservative exterior suggests. The grounds cover some 88 acres of formal gardens, wooded estate and a public skating rink in winter — the Canadian equivalent, one supposes, of Buckingham Palace opening its back garden for the afternoon, though rather more reliably available. Free guided summer tours of the public rooms were thoroughly worthwhile, the Tent Room with its original striped canvas ceiling particularly striking, and the Changing of the Governor General’s Foot Guards is considerably more accessible than its Buckingham Palace equivalent — no one elbows you in the face for a better view.
- Location: 1 Sussex Drive, Ottawa
- Website: gg.ca/en/visit/rideau-hall
- Hours: Guided tours available seasonally; grounds open year-round during daylight hours
- Fees: Free
Visit the Canadian War Museum
The Canadian War Museum opened on LeBreton Flats in 2005 in a deliberately striking building by Moriyama & Teshima Architects — all angular concrete and Cor-Ten steel cutting a jagged silhouette along the Ottawa River, looking rather appropriately as though it has been through something. The building’s roofline is designed so that on Remembrance Day, 11 November, a shaft of light falls directly onto the grave marker of the Unknown Soldier in Memorial Hall, a piece of architectural precision that produces, on the day, an effect that is quietly devastating. Inside, the collection covers Canadian military history from pre-Confederation through to the present day, the LeBreton Gallery housing the largest collection of military vehicles and artillery in Canada including a Tiger I tank captured in Tunisia in 1943, and the section on peacekeeping contributions providing an important counterweight to the combat galleries.
- Location: 1 Vimy Place, Ottawa
- Website: warmuseum.ca
- Hours: Daily 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, Thursday until 8:00 PM
- Fees: CAD 20 (adult) / CAD 17 (senior) / CAD 14 (youth 3–12); under 3s free; free on Thursday evenings
Browse the Sparks Street Pedestrian Mall
Sparks Street was converted into a pedestrian mall in 1967 — the first such conversion in Canada and one of the earliest in North America — timed partly to coincide with Canada’s centenary and partly because the Victorian and Edwardian commercial buildings were deteriorating and the traffic was a mess. Its fortunes rose and fell over subsequent decades as retail drifted to the suburbs, but it has recovered considerably since, now home to a good mix of independent restaurants, Canadian-specific shops and preserved Italianate and Edwardian brick architecture that provides a satisfying contrast to the glass towers surrounding it. In summer, outdoor seating and markets make it easy to lose a pleasant hour or two; in winter, the heated passages between buildings become genuinely useful when the temperature drops to the sort of level that makes you briefly reconsider the whole outdoor sightseeing enterprise.
- Location: Sparks Street, between Elgin Street and Bronson Avenue, Ottawa
- Website: sparksstreet.com
- Hours: Public area open 24 hours; shops and restaurants generally daily from around 10:00 AM
- Fees: Free to stroll
Getting Around
🛫 Getting to Ottawa
By Air: Ottawa Macdonald-Cartier International Airport (YOW) handles flights from across Canada and a growing number of international destinations. Air Canada, WestJet and Porter Airlines all serve the airport, with flights from Toronto taking around an hour and from Montreal around 50 minutes. The airport sits about 20 kilometres south of downtown, and the most practical way into the city centre is by taxi, Uber or the 97 Express bus to the downtown Transitway stops — considerably cheaper than a taxi and around 25–30 minutes outside peak hours.
By Train: Ottawa is served by VIA Rail at the Ottawa Train Station on Tremblay Road, with frequent services from Montréal (around two hours) and Toronto (around four to four and a half hours). The station sits some way east of downtown, but OC Transpo bus connections into the city centre are straightforward enough.
By Road: Coach services from Greyhound and FlixBus connect Ottawa with Toronto, Montréal and various other destinations, arriving at the main coach terminal. Driving from Toronto via the 401 and 416 takes roughly four to four and a half hours depending on traffic, which in our experience is a variable quantity. Parking in downtown Ottawa is metered and can be expensive, so park-and-ride facilities at the outer O-Train stations are worth considering if you are arriving by car.
🚇 Getting Around Ottawa
O-Train: Ottawa’s light rail system provides a reasonably comprehensive network across the city. The Confederation Line (Line 1) runs east-west through the downtown core between Blair and Tunney’s Pasture, while the Trillium Line (Line 2) runs north-south.
- Website: octranspo.com
- Fare: CAD 3.75 per ride with a Presto card
OC Transpo (bus): An extensive bus network covers the city and surrounding suburbs, with Transitway express buses providing fast connections along dedicated lanes. The same Presto card works across all OC Transpo services, with transfers included within a 90-minute window.
- Website: octranspo.com
Cycling: Ottawa has invested heavily in cycling infrastructure, and the combination of the Rideau Canal pathway, the National Capital Commission’s recreational pathway network and relatively flat central terrain makes it one of the more pleasant Canadian cities to navigate on two wheels. The Capital Bikeshare scheme operates electric and standard bikes from hundreds of docking stations.
- Website: capitalbikeshare.com
Taxis and Rideshare: Uber and local taxi companies operate across the city and are a straightforward option, particularly for journeys crossing the river into Gatineau, where the O-Train does not reach.
Driving: Rental cars are available at the airport and downtown, and are most useful for excursions out to the Ottawa Valley, Montebello or Gatineau Park. Within the downtown core, O-Train and buses are generally more efficient than navigating and parking a car.
Vegan Dining in Ottawa
🥙 Art Is In Bakery
Technically a bakery and café rather than a vegan restaurant, but Art Is In Bakery has become one of the most reliable spots in Ottawa for plant-based breakfast and lunch and deserves a mention on those grounds alone. The sourdough is worth the detour in its own right, the grain bowls and vegan pastries are made with the same level of care, and it is also the sort of place where you end up buying a loaf to take back to the hotel and eating most of it in the room before dinner — which we are not going to pretend did not happen.
- Location: 250 City Centre Avenue, Unit 112, Ottawa
- Hours: Wednesday–Friday 7:30 AM – 3:00 PM, Saturday–Sunday 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM; closed Mondays and Tuesdays
- Website: artisinbakery.com
🍜 Green Door Restaurant
The Green Door has been feeding Ottawa’s plant-curious since 1988, making it one of the longest-running vegetarian restaurants in the city — the kind of institution that has introduced several generations of Ottawans to the idea that vegetarian food can be both filling and genuinely delicious. It operates on a self-serve, all-you-can-eat model at lunch and dinner, with a hot buffet and salad counter that changes daily and a large, cheerfully informal room that welcomes everyone from solo diners to large families with complicated requirements.
- Location: 198 Main Street, Ottawa
- Hours: Monday–Friday 11:00 AM – 8:30 PM, Saturday–Sunday 10:00 AM – 8:30 PM
- Website: greendoor.ca
🧆 Shawarma Palace (Vegan Options)
Not exclusively vegan, but so good and so thoroughly Ottawa that it would be wrong to leave it out. Shawarma Palace has been a fixture of the food scene for years, serving Lebanese-style shawarma, falafel and vegetable wraps to everyone from parliamentary staffers to students. The falafel wrap is a genuinely first-rate thing — crisp herb-heavy falafel, pickled vegetables, tahini and a quantity of garlic sauce that makes post-lunch meetings something of a gamble — and the prices are the kind that briefly restore one’s faith in the cost of eating out.
- Location: Multiple locations across Ottawa
- Hours: Daily, roughly 10:00 AM – midnight (check individual locations)
- Website: shawarmapalace.com
🍰 Datsun (Japanese-Inspired Small Plates)
A small-plates Japanese-inspired restaurant with excellent vegan credentials and an imaginative approach to plant-based cooking that we found rather more exciting than many dedicated vegan restaurants. The menu changes regularly, but the pickled vegetables, miso-glazed aubergine and mushroom-based dishes have become reliable fixtures, the sake list is thoughtfully compiled, and it is the sort of restaurant that proves vegan eating has moved well beyond the worthy-but-dull territory it once occupied.
- Location: 401 Cooper Street, Ottawa
- Hours: Tuesday–Saturday 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM; closed Sundays and Mondays
- Website: instagram.com/datsunotw
The Best Time to Visit Ottawa
❄️ December to February — Winter
Ottawa in winter is not for the faint-hearted, and that is exactly why it is worth visiting. Average daytime highs hover around minus 6°C in January, with lows that can drop to minus 20°C or beyond when the wind comes down from the north — and when it does, it really means business. The Rideau Canal skating rink opens whenever the ice is sufficiently thick, typically in January and running through to mid-February, and on a clear crisp morning with the snowbanks piled high on either side it is one of the genuinely great cold-weather experiences in the world. Winterlude, the city’s annual winter festival, runs for three weekends in February and fills the ByWard Market and canal with ice sculptures, snow slides and outdoor performances, and hotel rates outside the Christmas and New Year fortnight are at their lowest.
Packing: A seriously insulated winter coat rated to at least minus 20°C, thermal base layers, waterproof insulated boots, mittens over gloves, a hat covering the ears, a neck gaiter and hand warmers as a matter of course.
🌸 March to May — Spring
Spring comes to Ottawa gradually and then, occasionally, all at once — March remains properly cold, April is genuinely variable, and May is when the city finally commits to being warm. The tulip beds for which Ottawa is famous begin to appear in early May, the result of a tradition dating to 1945 when the Dutch royal family, who had spent the Second World War in exile here, sent 100,000 bulbs as a gift of gratitude. Princess Margriet was actually born in Ottawa in 1943, the maternity suite temporarily declared Dutch territory to ensure her citizenship, and the Canadian Tulip Festival that grew from this tradition now draws up to a million visitors each May — a remarkable figure for a city of just over a million people.
Packing: Layers for fluctuating temperatures, a waterproof jacket doubling as a windbreak, comfortable waterproof walking shoes and a light scarf for cooler mornings.
☀️ June to August — Summer
Ottawa in summer is warm, lively and thoroughly enjoyable, with the city’s parks, waterfront and outdoor spaces coming into their own and average temperatures reaching 26°C in July. Canada Day on 1 July is the undoubted centrepiece of the calendar, bringing what feels like the entire country to Parliament Hill for a day of music, performances, fireworks and collective good feeling quite unlike any national day celebration we have encountered elsewhere. The outdoor summer programme runs across Parliament Hill, Major’s Hill Park and the ByWard Market from June through to August, and occasional afternoon thunderstorms aside, it is Ottawa at its most irresistible.
Packing: Lightweight breathable clothing, good sunscreen, sunglasses, a refillable water bottle, a compact umbrella and insect repellent for evenings near the river.
🍂 September to November — Autumn
Autumn in Ottawa is — and we say this without qualification — genuinely spectacular. The Canadian Shield’s broad-leaved trees in the Gatineau Hills combined with the maples lining the National Capital Commission pathways turn the city and its surroundings into an extraordinary palette of red, orange and gold by mid-October. September is warm and clear at around 20°C, shoulder-season hotel rates make it excellent value, the Ottawa Writers Festival brings authors across the city in October, and Doors Open Ottawa — a weekend when dozens of normally closed buildings open for free — typically falls in September.
Packing: A mid-weight jacket or fleece, layers for variable temperatures, a compact umbrella and comfortable shoes with some ankle support for the hillier parts of Gatineau Park.
🗓️ Overall Best Time
Canada Day week at the end of June and early July offers the fullest festival calendar and best weather, though the city fills up and accommodation needs booking well in advance. Travellers who want the foliage without the summer prices will do very well in mid-October, when the colours are at their peak and queues at major attractions are a fraction of the summer length. And for those of us who genuinely enjoy cold weather — there is no shame in it — January and February on the skating canal are something we would go back for without hesitation.
Where to Stay?
🏙️ ByWard Market and Lower Town
Ottawa’s most characterful and historically layered base, with the market itself, the National Gallery, Rideau Hall and Parliament Hill all within easy walking distance, and a busy restaurant and bar scene that keeps going well into the evening.
Hotels:
- Andaz Ottawa ByWard Market (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Hyatt’s design-led luxury brand in a landmark heritage building, with a rooftop terrace overlooking the market and Parliament Hill.
- Hotel Indigo Ottawa Downtown City Centre (⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Boutique IHG property in the market area with locally inspired design and a strong restaurant on the ground floor.
- Saintlo Ottawa Jail Hostel — A genuine Victorian-era gaol converted into a hostel, complete with cells as dormitory rooms and a gallows in the former courtyard. Atmospheric in a very specific way. Not, we would suggest, for light sleepers or those with an overactive imagination.
🏛️ Downtown and Parliament Hill
The most convenient base for Parliament Hill, the Supreme Court, the Canadian War Museum and the Rideau Canal locks, with quick O-Train access for getting further afield.
Hotels:
- Fairmont Château Laurier (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Ottawa’s grandest hotel, opened in 1912 adjacent to Union Station and Parliament Hill, with a castle-like exterior and a swimming pool carved into the bedrock below. The sort of place Canadian prime ministers have been passing through for over a century.
- The Westin Ottawa (⭐⭐⭐⭐) — A large, well-run hotel connected directly to the Rideau Centre shopping complex and the Ottawa Convention Centre, with good access to the Rideau Canal.
- Lord Elgin Hotel (⭐⭐⭐⭐) — A handsome limestone building anchoring the corner of Elgin and Laurier since 1941, comfortable and traditional in a way that Ottawa’s more historic atmosphere seems to call for.
🌿 The Glebe and Old Ottawa South
A quieter, more residential base a short O-Train or bus ride south of the downtown core, with independent cafés, the Lansdowne Park redevelopment and easy access to the Rideau Canal’s cycling and skating pathways. Genuinely lovely in autumn when the trees along Bank Street turn colour.
Hotels:
- Arc The Hotel (⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Ottawa’s most design-forward boutique property, a short walk from Parliament Hill in the Golden Triangle neighbourhood, with a popular restaurant and a genuinely warm welcome.
- Novotel Ottawa City Centre (⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Reliable Accor property near the Rideau Centre, well positioned for both the downtown core and the ByWard Market, with family-friendly rooms at reasonable rates.
- University of Ottawa Residences — Student residences available to visitors during the summer months, reasonably priced and centrally located near the canal and the downtown museums. Not glamorous, but entirely functional, and the price is the point.
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