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Vietnam: Hanoi’s Train Street Is a Living Railway Corridor

🚂 Train Street, Hanoi: When the Railway Runs Through Your Back Garden

We’d had some sad personal news that morning and I wasn’t feeling great about anything. Karen decided the best thing was to get me out of the hotel and take me somewhere — and that somewhere turned out to be Train Street, one of Hanoi’s more remarkable little corners.

🗺️ What Train Street Actually Is

Train Street isn’t just one street — there are several narrow alleyways in the old residential quarter of Hanoi where an active railway line runs directly through the middle of the neighbourhood. The most famous one, and the only one really open to visitors, runs near Dien Bien Phu Street in the Hoan Kiem district, close to Hanoi railway station.

The railway itself is part of the North–South Railway — the Reunification Express line — which runs the full length of Vietnam from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, a distance of around 1,700 kilometres. The line was originally built by the French during the colonial period and was completed in 1936, running through the existing urban fabric of Hanoi in a way that probably seemed perfectly reasonable at the time and is now one of the more improbable pieces of urban planning you’ll come across anywhere.

The houses along this stretch were built directly alongside the tracks, some of them so close that the gap between the passing train and the front of the building is a matter of a foot or so. Families have lived here, right next to the line, for generations. The trains run on a scheduled timetable but not an especially predictable one to the casual observer, with more services at the weekend than on weekdays, and they don’t slow down.

☕ A Very Commercial Little Corner

It’s fair to say the street has changed considerably since it first attracted tourist attention in the early 2010s. By the time we got there, it had become thoroughly commercialised. The moment you turned into the alley you were met by a small army of people who wanted you, quite urgently, to come and sit at their café or bar. The cafés and small restaurants had set up rows of plastic chairs and tables right alongside the tracks — close enough that when the train eventually came, you would essentially be sitting next to it. Outside each one, a hand-written board listed the times trains were expected to pass.

We found a spot, sat down, and waited.

The timetable on the board was treated as more of a rough suggestion than a binding commitment. Two of the expected times came and went with nothing. The café owner had a different explanation for each absence — a delay, a cancellation, some issue further up the line. We sat through both. Nothing came. After a while we gave up and headed off to find something to eat, which was no hardship in Hanoi.

🔄 Second Time Lucky

About nine months later, we found ourselves back in Hanoi for a second visit, and Train Street seemed like unfinished business. We went back in the evening this time, which turned out to be a better idea all round.

It was dark when we arrived, the alley lit by the lights from the cafés, and it was busy — a decent crowd of tourists and a few locals, all sitting along the track and doing what we’d done before, which was wait and hope. We found two chairs, ordered two beers, and settled in with the specific intention of making them last as long as necessary.

The atmosphere was quite something. Everyone was alert in the way that people get when they’re waiting for something to happen and aren’t entirely sure when it will. Conversations kept stopping mid-sentence when someone thought they’d heard something. The café owner came round periodically to tell us the train was definitely coming, which was reassuring but which we took, based on experience, with a reasonable amount of salt.

We sat there for over an hour.

🚂 It Came

And then it did come. We heard it before we saw it — a low rumbling that you felt in the chair as much as heard, building steadily, and then suddenly there were headlights and noise and a large goods train came through at full speed, filling the entire alley, passing within about eighteen inches of where we were sitting. Everyone pressed back instinctively. It was over in maybe fifteen seconds.

Afterwards there was a collective moment of slightly stunned silence followed by a lot of laughing and clapping and people turning to whoever they were with. Karen was grinning. I was grinning. The café owner looked very pleased with himself.

It was, it has to be said, a little bit terrifying. But it was also genuinely exhilarating — the kind of experience where you’re slightly relieved it’s over and immediately glad you did it.

💭 Looking Back

Train Street is entirely absurd as a tourist attraction and also entirely worth visiting. The commercialisation is real — there’s no pretending you’re discovering some hidden local secret when you’re surrounded by forty other people with their phones out — but the moment the train actually comes, all of that falls away and you’re just sitting there with a large moving vehicle going past at close range and thinking about how remarkably strange it is that people have lived alongside this for the best part of a century.

The locals don’t come out to watch, as far as we could see. For them it’s just the train going past, the same as it always has. For us it was memorable enough to come back for a second attempt — which turned out to be the right call.

Planning your visit to Train Street

📍 Where It Is

There are two main sections of Train Street, and understanding the difference between them is the most important part of planning your visit.

Phung Hung / Tran Phu is the section most people have seen in photographs — the one near the Old Quarter with colourful cafés, lanterns and that famous curved stretch of track. It is the closest to the tourist centre of Hanoi and easily reached on foot from most Old Quarter accommodation. The downside is that it has become increasingly managed: access can be restricted, café owners control entry, and purchasing a drink is essentially the price of admission.

Le Duan Street, located just south of Hanoi Railway Station, offers a noticeably calmer version of the same experience. The atmosphere here is more relaxed — fewer crowds, no barricades, and café owners who are helpful rather than pressuring. The gap between trains is narrower here (there are fewer daily services at Le Duan), but the experience feels considerably more authentic. If you can only choose one, Le Duan is worth the extra few minutes of travel.


🚌 Getting There

Both sections are straightforward to reach from anywhere in central Hanoi.

By Grab or taxi — this is the simplest option, especially for Le Duan. Enter a specific address when booking rather than just “Train Street”, as the two sections are not in the same location. For Le Duan, search for 224 Le Duan or one of the named cafés in that area. For the Phung Hung section, search for Phung Hung Train Street or Tran Phu Street near the Old Quarter. Grab is inexpensive throughout Hanoi and far easier to use than trying to negotiate a local taxi fare.

On foot — from Hoan Kiem Lake (the central landmark of the Old Quarter), Phung Hung is a 10–20 minute walk depending on where you are staying. Le Duan is further, around 30 minutes on foot, though the walk takes you past the lake itself, which makes it a pleasant way to spend an afternoon. If the weather is comfortable — particularly in the cooler months — walking to Le Duan turns the visit into a leisurely half-day rather than a quick taxi trip.

By local bus — buses do stop near Le Duan, Tran Phu and Phung Hung streets, but the extra complexity is rarely worth it. Grab is cheap enough and far less stressful.


🗺️ Getting Around Once You’re There

The main tourist stretch of each section is relatively compact — around 200 metres at the Phung Hung end. At Le Duan, the cafés are spread along a similar length of track. There is no admission gate or ticketing process at either location; you simply walk in and choose a café. At the Phung Hung section, you may find barriers or a guard at certain entrances, in which case a café owner will generally guide you through. At Le Duan, access tends to be more straightforward.

The expected etiquette at both sections is the same: take a seat at one of the cafés along the track, order a drink, and ask the owner when the next train is expected. Train times published online are approximate at best — the services passing through are regular long-distance trains on the Vietnamese national network, running to and from destinations such as Lào Cai (for Sapa) and Hồ Chí Minh City, and delays are common. The café owner’s knowledge of that day’s schedule is invariably more reliable than anything found online. Arriving 30–45 minutes before an expected train gives you time to settle in, pick your spot and confirm the timing.

When the train is approaching, the owner will tell everyone to move back — sometimes with just a minute or two’s notice. Chairs and tables are quickly pulled in, everyone steps to the side, and the locomotive passes through the gap. The clearance between the train and the buildings is genuinely very tight; this is not a moment to hold your ground for a photograph. Once the train has passed, everything moves back and the street returns to normal within seconds. At Le Duan especially, the whole rhythm of this feels surprisingly calm and unhurried.


☕ The Cafés

Both sections have a selection of small cafés and coffee shops built right up against the tracks. They serve Vietnamese coffee — including the city’s famous egg coffee — tea, soft drinks and light snacks. Prices are modest by any standard, and most prefer cash. Even at sections where there is no formal pressure to buy something, ordering a drink is both courteous and expected; the cafés are the reason visitors have somewhere safe and comfortable to wait.

At Le Duan, well-regarded options include Hanoi 1990s, which has a good position along the track and clear safety instructions, and 65 Railway Coffee, a quieter alternative a little further down. At Phung Hung, Railway Café is one of the originals and tends to attract a photography-focused crowd, while Coffee Chill 96 offers a slightly more relaxed atmosphere at the main section.


⚠️ Safety

The gap between the passing train and the buildings, furniture and people lining the track is extremely narrow — genuinely only a few inches in places. The experience is entirely safe provided you follow a few straightforward rules. Do not stand on or near the tracks when a train is due. Do not attempt to stay close to the rails for a better photograph when asked to move back. Listen to the café owners and step back promptly when instructed. Keep children close and hold their hands when a train is approaching. The owners manage this routine several times a day and their instructions should be followed without hesitation. The danger only arises when people ignore them.


💡 Practical Tips

Bring cash — most cafés along both sections prefer it. Arrive at least 30 minutes before an expected train time, and treat online schedules as rough guidance rather than firm timetables. If the Phung Hung section appears blocked or heavily managed, make your way to Le Duan instead; the experience there is better for most visitors in any case. Plan to spend one to two hours, which is enough time to settle in, catch at least one train, and enjoy a coffee without feeling rushed.


📋 Useful Information

 WebsiteEmailTelephoneEntry Fee
Train Street (general info)dsvn.vn (Vietnam Railways)——Free (drink purchase expected at cafés)
Hanoi 1990s Café (Le Duan)Search Google Maps——No entry fee; buy a drink
Railway Café (Phung Hung)Search Google Maps——No entry fee; buy a drink
Grab (transport app)grab.com——Metered fare

The Best Time to Visit Ha Noi 

🗓️ Understanding Hanoi’s Seasons

Hanoi sits in northern Vietnam and has a genuinely four-season climate — something that surprises many visitors who expect South-East Asia to offer nothing but relentless heat. The city experiences a subtropical humid climate with cool winters, warm springs, a hot and rainy summer, and a pleasant dry autumn. The range of conditions across the year is wide enough that the season you choose will shape your trip considerably, so it is worth thinking carefully before you book.


🌸 Spring: February to April

Spring in Hanoi is widely regarded as one of the more charming times to visit, though it comes with a caveat. Temperatures climb gradually from around 17°C in February to the low 20s by April, and the weather feels mild and pleasant compared to the sapping heat of summer. The Tết (Lunar New Year) festival, usually falling in late January or February, transforms the city: streets are strung with lights, peach-blossom trees appear on every corner, and a genuine sense of festivity pervades the old quarter. If you time your visit around Tết itself, though, be aware that many restaurants and shops close for several days, transport becomes extremely busy, and prices rise sharply.

The main drawback of spring is what the Vietnamese call the “drizzling rain” season — a fine, persistent mist known as mưa phùn that settles over the city from February into March. It rarely falls as a proper downpour but instead creates a clammy, grey atmosphere that can feel oppressive after a few days. By April the air begins to clear, the temperature warms, and the humidity has not yet reached summer peaks. Late March to mid-April hits a sweet spot: mild, relatively dry, and busy with the city’s many festivals.

What to pack for spring: Light layers are essential, since mornings can still feel distinctly cool while afternoons warm up rapidly. A compact waterproof jacket or packable rain mac is non-negotiable for the mưa phùn period. Breathable trousers, a lightweight jumper or fleece for evenings in February and March, comfortable walking shoes that dry quickly, a small umbrella, and sunscreen for April when the sun begins to bite. Modest clothing is advisable for temple visits throughout.


☀️ Summer: May to August

Summer in Hanoi is hot, humid, and wet — the words most often used are “intense” and “relentless.” Temperatures regularly reach 35°C or higher, and the humidity can push the feels-like temperature well above that. The monsoon arrives in May and runs through September, bringing afternoon and evening rainstorms that are frequently dramatic: heavy, sudden downpours that flood low-lying streets within minutes and cool the air only briefly before the humidity reasserts itself. Street vendors selling plastic ponchos do excellent business.

That said, summer has its advocates. Accommodation prices are lower than in peak season, the city is visited by fewer Western tourists, and local life continues at full pace regardless of the weather. The street food scene, if anything, feels even more vibrant in summer evenings, when Hanoians spill out onto pavements the moment the rains pause. The city’s lakes — Hoan Kiem in particular — are beautiful in the golden light after a storm.

Practical challenges include the heat making extended sightseeing quite draining, the rains disrupting day trips and motorcycle tours, and the humidity making everything — clothes, leather goods, cameras — susceptible to mould if left in a bag for more than a day or two. Those travelling to the north of Vietnam to combine Hanoi with Sapa or Ha Long Bay should be aware that summer is the peak typhoon season on the northern coast, and plans can be disrupted at short notice.

What to pack for summer: Lightweight, loose-fitting, moisture-wicking clothing in breathable fabrics is essential — linen and technical fabrics that dry quickly are far better than cotton, which clings unpleasantly when wet. A compact fold-up umbrella or a waterproof poncho for sudden downpours. Sandals for the city but closed-toe shoes for temple floors. High-factor sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat. A small dry bag or waterproof phone case for motorbike rides in the rain. Anti-fungal powder if you are prone to skin issues in high humidity.


🍂 Autumn: September to November

Autumn is generally considered the finest season in Hanoi and the most popular time to visit. The monsoon rains ease off through September and are largely gone by October, the humidity drops, and temperatures settle into a highly agreeable range of 20–28°C. Skies are frequently a clear, deep blue. The light has a golden quality that photographers love, the streets feel alive without the oppressive heat, and the city’s parks and gardens look at their best.

October and November are the peak months by consensus. Street food is at its most convivial — evenings are warm enough to sit outside comfortably without being sweaty — and the city’s cultural calendar is active, with various local festivals marking the harvest season. Accommodation fills quickly, particularly at weekends and during Vietnamese national holidays, so it pays to book ahead. Prices reflect the demand.

One note of caution: September remains transitional and can still produce significant rainfall, particularly in the first half of the month. Early arrivals should not assume the monsoon is entirely done. Hanoi also sits close to the Red River delta, and in September there is occasionally a risk of flooding in lower-lying parts of the city following unusually heavy rains upstream.

What to pack for autumn: This is the most straightforward packing season. Light, breathable clothing suits daytime temperatures comfortably, with a light jacket or cardigan for evenings in November when temperatures begin to cool. Comfortable walking shoes or trainers. A compact umbrella for the occasional shower in September. Sunscreen remains necessary. As autumn progresses toward November, an extra layer for early mornings and late evenings becomes welcome.


❄️ Winter: December to January

Hanoi in winter catches many visitors off guard, particularly those who arrive expecting warm South-East Asian weather and find themselves shivering in a damp chill. December and January bring the coldest weather, with temperatures typically ranging from 15°C to 20°C but occasionally dropping to 10°C or below on the coldest nights. The cold is damp rather than crisp — not the kind of cold that feels refreshing — and rain falls occasionally as a persistent drizzle rather than a dramatic downpour.

What winter lacks in beach-ready conditions, it more than compensates for in atmosphere. The city feels intimate and unhurried. Hanoians wrap themselves in coats and scarves, roadside pho stalls do roaring business as locals seek warmth, and the old quarter takes on a different character — quieter, foggier, with an almost European melancholy that suits the French colonial architecture rather well. The city’s museums, galleries, and indoor cultural sites are especially rewarding in winter.

Tourist numbers dip compared to the autumn peak, prices at hotels often reflect this, and the absence of heat makes extended walking considerably easier. Christmas and New Year bring a surge of local Vietnamese tourism to the city, particularly around Hoan Kiem Lake, where decorated trees and illuminated streets create a festive atmosphere quite unlike anything else in the region.

What to pack for winter: Warmer clothing than most people anticipate. A proper mid-layer fleece or wool jumper, a wind- and water-resistant outer jacket, and long trousers rather than shorts for most of December and January. Layers are the key — the cold is rarely extreme, but it can feel cutting indoors in buildings with no central heating. Closed-toe shoes or boots are more comfortable than sandals. A light scarf is genuinely useful. Those arriving from tropical climates should not underestimate how chilly a damp 12°C evening can feel.


✅ The Best Time to Visit Overall

If you can visit only once and want the most reliably pleasant experience, aim for October or November. These two months represent the sweet spot of Hanoi’s year: the monsoon has passed, the humidity has relented, temperatures are comfortable without being cold, the skies are clear, and the city is fully alive. Late March and early April run them close, particularly for those drawn to the Tết decorations still fading in the streets and the mild, fresh quality of a Hanoi spring morning. Avoid the height of summer — July and August especially — unless the heat genuinely does not bother you, and do not arrive in February without a rain mac and an entirely realistic set of expectations about grey skies. Whenever you go, Hanoi rewards the visitor who arrives on its own terms.

Vegan dining in Ha Noi

🥗 Vegan Food in Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi may be famous for its street food and traditional dishes, but it’s also becoming a great city for vegans. From cosy cafés to modern restaurants, there are plenty of places serving tasty, plant-based meals. Here are some top spots to try:


🌿 Jalus Vegan Kitchen – Hoan Kiem

A peaceful café near Hoan Kiem Lake offering healthy vegan dishes such as wraps, curries, and smoothies. It’s known for its friendly service and relaxing atmosphere.

📍 Address: 46 Hàng Trống, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
🌐 Facebook: Jalus Vegan Kitchen


🍜 Vegan Banh Mi Food Truck – Tay Ho

A small but popular food truck serving 100% vegan versions of the famous Vietnamese baguette sandwich. Expect fresh vegetables, tofu, and delicious sauces.

📍 Address: 8A Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi
🌐 Instagram: @veganbanhmihanoi


🛒 An Phu Earth Café & Shop – Tay Ho

A community café and store offering organic, plant-based meals and sustainable products. Great for brunch, shopping for vegan snacks, or joining eco-friendly events.

📍 Address: 6/12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi
🌐 Website: anphuearthcafe.com


🍽️ The Veg – Old Quarter

A cosy vegan and vegetarian restaurant in the Old Quarter. The menu includes Vietnamese classics made vegan, such as pho, spring rolls, and rice dishes.

📍 Address: 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
🌐 Facebook: The Veg Hanoi


🧁 Zenith Yoga Café – Ba Dinh

A calm and stylish space attached to a yoga studio, serving vegan-friendly meals, smoothies, and desserts. Perfect for a light lunch or post-yoga snack.

📍 Address: 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi
🌐 Website: zenithyogavietnam.com


🥙 Uu Dam Chay – Hai Ba Trung

An elegant vegan restaurant offering beautifully presented Vietnamese and Asian fusion dishes. Ideal for a relaxed lunch or a special evening meal.

📍 Address: 55 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
🌐 Website: uudamchay.com


🌱 Loving Hut – Multiple Locations

A long-running vegan restaurant chain offering affordable and filling plant-based Vietnamese dishes. A great choice for simple, homely meals.

📍 Locations: Tran Huy Lieu, Tay Son, and more
🌐 Website: lovinghut.com

Where to stay in Hanoi

🏛️ Old Quarter (Hoàn Kiếm)

The Old Quarter is the most popular area for first-time visitors. Its lively streets are packed with cafés, markets, temples, street food, and boutique hotels. Everything is within walking distance — Hoàn Kiếm Lake, weekend night markets, and many top attractions. It’s busy and energetic, perfect if you enjoy being in the heart of the action.


🌳 French Quarter

Located just south and east of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, the French Quarter offers a calmer, more elegant atmosphere. You’ll find wide tree-lined streets, French colonial architecture, luxury hotels, museums, and high-end dining. It’s ideal for travellers who want a quieter stay but still want to be close to the major sights.


🧘 West Lake (Tây Hồ)

West Lake is a relaxed, scenic neighbourhood popular with expats. It has modern cafés, international restaurants, rooftop bars, and peaceful lakeside views. With larger hotels and spacious apartments, it’s a great choice for longer stays or those who prefer a quieter, more modern vibe. It’s a short taxi or Grab ride to the Old Quarter.


🍜 Ba Đình District

Ba Đình is the political centre of Vietnam and home to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Botanical Gardens, and several important museums. It’s quieter than the Old Quarter but still well connected. Hotels here range from mid-range to high-end, and the area suits travellers who want culture, history and peaceful evenings.


🛍️ Hai Bà Trưng District

This youthful, local district sits just south of the French Quarter. It’s known for shopping centres, modern cafés, creative studios, and vibrant nightlife. While not as tourist-focused, it offers excellent value for money and a more authentic look at daily life in Hanoi. Great for repeat visitors or travellers seeking a trendier scene.


🌆 Hoàn Kiếm Lake Area

For those who want convenience without the intensity of the Old Quarter’s narrow streets, the Hoàn Kiếm Lake area is perfect. You’ll be close to many attractions, enjoy lakeside walks, and have access to beautiful cafés and restaurants. It’s a balanced option for couples, families, and first-time visitors.

🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

The Sofitel Legend Metropole is the finest hotel in Hanoi and, by most measures, one of the finest in Southeast Asia. It opened in 1901 as the Grand Métropole Palace, and its guest list since then has included Somerset Maugham, Graham Greene and Charlie Chaplin, all of whom presumably appreciated the impeccable French colonial architecture, the splendid pool and the air of carefully maintained grandeur that the hotel has never quite let slip. The Metropole Wing, the original 1901 building, retains its heritage rooms with high ceilings, louvred shutters and period furnishings; the Opera Wing is more contemporary. The hotel is located on Ngo Quyen Street, a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, and operates several excellent restaurants and bars. Perhaps most remarkably, there is a wartime air-raid shelter beneath the hotel that can be visited on a tour — the kind of historical footnote that elevates a luxury hotel stay into something genuinely memorable. It is not cheap. It is worth it.

🌟🌟🌟🌟 Hanoi Sail Hotel

The Hanoi Sail Hotel is one of the most consistently well-reviewed four-star properties in the Old Quarter, and it’s easy to see why. It sits in a prime position in Hoan Kiem District, within comfortable walking distance of the lake and the main sights, and offers the kind of attentive service that makes you feel attended to without feeling surveilled. The rooms are well proportioned and tastefully furnished, with good beds — always the main test, in my experience — proper blackout curtains and the small but meaningful touches that distinguish a hotel that has thought about its guests from one that merely tolerates them. The public areas are stylish without being fussy, the breakfast is well regarded, and the staff speak good English and are genuinely helpful rather than helpful in that slightly distant, procedural way. For travellers who want a smart base in the heart of the city without committing to the full Metropole experience or the associated bill, the Hanoi Sail represents very good value indeed.

🌟🌟🌟 La Siesta Classic Ma May

La Siesta Classic Ma May is a boutique hotel on one of the Old Quarter’s most characterful streets, and it punches well above its three-star classification in almost every respect. The building follows the traditional Hanoi tube-house format — narrow frontage, deep floor plan — and the rooms are compact but beautifully appointed, with locally sourced furnishings and decent bathrooms. The hotel is part of the well-regarded La Siesta group, which operates several properties in the Old Quarter and has built a reputation for good service and thoughtful design at a reasonable price. Ma May Street itself is one of the more pleasant corners of the Old Quarter — busy enough to feel alive, not so frantic as to preclude sleep — and many of the main attractions are within easy walking distance. For the mid-range traveller who wants to stay somewhere with genuine character rather than the soulless efficiency of an international chain, La Siesta Classic Ma May is a genuinely good choice, and one that gets well-deserved consistent praise from returning visitors.

🌟🌟 Hanoi Buffalo Hostel

Don’t let the name put you off. The Hanoi Buffalo Hostel is a well-run budget property in the Old Quarter that has accumulated thousands of positive reviews on Booking.com, and with good reason. It offers both dormitory beds and private rooms, all clean, all with air conditioning, and all staffed by an enthusiastic and helpful team who can organise tours, sort out transport and answer the kind of questions that you’re slightly embarrassed to ask in a nicer hotel. The location is excellent — right in the thick of the Old Quarter, with the main sights, the lake and the weekend walking street all within comfortable walking distance. The common areas are sociable without being oppressively loud, which matters more than you’d think after a long travel day. For independent travellers, backpackers and anyone who considers spending £80 a night on a hotel room an act of unnecessary optimism, the Buffalo is a reliable, cheerful and very decent place to put your head down and your bag down and get on with enjoying Hanoi.

Old Quarter View Hanoi Hostel

The Old Quarter View Hanoi Hostel has the kind of score on Booking.com — over 9.0 from more than 3,000 reviews — that makes you suspicious, because things with that many reviews are rarely that good. But in this case the numbers hold up. This is a brilliantly located, well-managed hostel in the heart of the Old Quarter, offering dormitory accommodation in a clean, modern building with good bathrooms, strong Wi-Fi, friendly staff and, as the name rather usefully indicates, a view over the rooftops of the surrounding neighbourhood. The hostel attracts a sociable mix of travellers, is organised without being regimented, and benefits from a team that seems to actually enjoy working there, which is rarer than it should be. It books up quickly during peak season, so plan ahead. For solo travellers in particular, or anyone who wants to meet people and doesn’t require the privacy of a room to themselves, this is probably the best hostel option in Hanoi, and certainly one of the best value propositions in the city at any category.

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