Kinabalu National Park in Sabah protects Borneo's highest peak and one of the world's most biodiverse landscapes — a UNESCO World Heritage Site where granite summit trails pitcher plants cloud forest and extraordinary wildlife come together in a single extraordinary destination.
Malaysia: Borneo – The Rain Forest Discovery Centre
🌿 Don’t Just See the Orangutans — The Rainforest Discovery Centre, Sepilok
I’ll be honest with you — I love planning trips almost as much as actually going on them. Probably more, some weeks. While most sensible people are watching telly of an evening, I’m sitting there with seventeen browser tabs open, a notepad covered in illegible scribbles, and a half-cold cup of tea, plotting journeys that are still eighteen months away. We’ll barely have left on one trip before I’m mentally somewhere else entirely.
That said — and this is important — I try not to go completely mad with the planning. I know the rough shape of where we’re going and how long we’ve got, but I deliberately leave things loose. No colour-coded spreadsheets. No fifteen-minute slot for “spontaneous discovery.” Because here’s what I’ve found: if you plan every single moment, you squeeze out all the happy accidents. And those accidents, those completely unplanned stumbles into something brilliant, are often the best parts of any journey.
Which brings me neatly to the Rainforest Discovery Centre.
🦅 Sepilok’s Best-Kept Secret
We were in Sepilok, in the Malaysian state of Sabah, on the northeastern tip of Borneo — one of the largest islands on earth and home to one of the oldest rainforests in the world, reckoned to be somewhere around 140 million years old, which puts it considerably older than the Amazon and makes our own countryside look like a recently landscaped garden centre. Most visitors come to Sepilok for one reason: the famous Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, which opened back in 1964 and has been rescuing orphaned and displaced orangutans ever since. Entirely worthwhile. Absolutely go. Tick.
But — and this is the thing — just a short walk away sits the Rainforest Discovery Centre, the RDC, and I’d wager a decent portion of those same visitors never bother with it at all. They see the orangutans, wander back to their minibus, and that’s that. What a shame. What a genuine, avoidable shame.
🪲 The Exhibition Hall: Surprisingly Not Boring
The first stop at the RDC is a compact exhibition hall, and before you groan and think “oh good, a museum,” let me tell you — it’s genuinely fascinating. Sabah and greater Borneo have the kind of biodiversity that makes a naturalist’s head explode, and this little hall does a remarkably good job of laying it all out. The Bornean ecosystem is staggering in its complexity: Borneo hosts around 15,000 plant species, roughly 220 mammal species, 420 types of birds, and — this is where it gets properly alarming — over 100,000 known species of invertebrates.
The insect collection alone was worth the detour. Drawers and drawers of specimens: enormous rhinoceros beetles, stick insects that could genuinely make you doubt your own eyesight, and butterflies of quite spectacular, almost absurd beauty. Stunning to look at in a glass case. Considerably less welcome, I can only imagine, when one decides to land on your neck somewhere in the undergrowth.
🌳 Into the Canopy
Beyond the hall, the RDC opens up into extensive grounds of primary rainforest — the real thing, not the managed, tidied-up version. This is ancient, towering, chaotic forest, and the sheer variety of plant and tree species is, as I believe the technical term goes, bonkers.
To get a proper feel for it, there’s a raised walkway that lifts you up high into the forest canopy, and it’s here that the scale of tropical trees becomes genuinely jaw-dropping. Borneo’s forests, and Sabah in particular, are home to the tallest tropical trees on the planet. The current record-holder — discovered relatively recently in the Danum Valley, one of Sabah’s more pristine and untouched wildernesses — is a specimen of the genus Shorea, a dipterocarp tree, and it stands at a quite ludicrous 94.1 metres. That’s nearly 309 feet. For context, that’s taller than the Statue of Liberty, and considerably more impressive, though I appreciate that’s a matter of personal taste.
🦜 Kenneth and the Birds
We were lucky enough to have a guide on our visit — a chap called Kenneth, who turned out to be an expert on the birds of Borneo, of which there are rather a lot: over 600 recorded species on the island, including dozens found nowhere else on earth. Kenneth had brought a spotting scope with him, which immediately made him the most popular person in our small group, and he spent a very patient couple of hours pointing out species that, without him, we would have completely missed.
The bee-eaters were stunning — vivid, jewel-coloured birds that look like something a graphic designer would come up with if asked to make a bird “more exciting.” But the undisputed star of the show was the rhinoceros hornbill, Buceros rhinoceros, which is Sabah’s state bird and, frankly, one of nature’s more theatrical creations. It’s large, impressively loud, and sports a bright orange-and-red casque on top of its bill — a structure that looks like evolution was showing off — and in flight it looks, as I’ve said before, absolutely prehistoric. We were also lucky enough to spot a few of these magnificent birds flying around the grounds of the Sepilok Nature Resort, which made for a rather fine end to the afternoon.
✅ Go. Just Go.
If you find yourself in Sepilok — and honestly, if you haven’t been, you should think about it — please don’t make the mistake of rushing past the RDC. Give it a couple of hours. It will absolutely repay the time. Think of it as homework you’ll actually enjoy, a proper grounding in the extraordinary world you’re walking through. The orangutans are wonderful, yes. But the rainforest they live in is something else entirely, and the RDC will help you understand exactly why.
Planning Your Trip
🌿 Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC), Sepilok
| 📍 Location | Jalan Fabia, Sepilok, 90715 Sandakan, Sabah, Borneo, Malaysia | 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (trails open until 7:00 PM) |
| 🌐 Website | rainforestdiscoverycentre.org | 📞 Phone | 089-533 780 |
| rdcsepilok@yahoo.com | ℹ️ Notes | Night walks 6:00–8:00 PM (pre-book at ticket counter by 4:30 PM). Cash only. |
✈️ Getting There
Reaching Sandakan
| ✈️ By Air | Fly from Kota Kinabalu (KK) to Sandakan Airport — approx. 45 mins. Served by AirAsia and MASwings. Sandakan Airport is approximately 17 km from the RDC. |
| 🚌 By Bus (from KK) | Long-distance bus from Inanam Bus Terminal, Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan — approx. 6–10 hours (RM43–45). Alight at Sandakan bus terminal, then take a taxi or local bus to Sepilok. |
Sandakan to RDC (Sepilok)
| 🚕 Taxi / Grab | Most convenient option. Approx. RM40–50 from Sandakan town or airport; journey 20–40 minutes. |
| 🚌 Local Bus | Bus No. 14 from Sandakan central bus terminal towards Sepilok junction, then a short walk or RM5 taxi ride to the centre. |
| 🗺️ Guided Tour | Many Sandakan-based operators include the RDC in day-trip packages combining the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. |
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Foreign Adults | Foreign Children (5–17 yrs) | Under 5s | Night Walk (adult) | Night Walk (child) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RM30 | RM20 | Free | RM50 | RM25 |
Entry fees and transport costs are subject to change; visitors are advised to confirm current charges before their visit. Nearest international hub: Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KK).
Best time to visit Sabah, Borneo
🌞 Dry Season — March to October (Peak Time)
For the majority of travellers, the dry season represents the most appealing window to visit Malaysian Borneo. From approximately March through to October, both Sabah and Sarawak enjoy relatively lower rainfall, calmer seas, and longer stretches of sunny weather. This is when the region truly comes into its own.
In Sabah, this period is ideal for climbing Mount Kinabalu, as cloud cover is thinner in the early morning and summit views are far clearer. Diving and snorkelling around the islands of Sipadan, Mabul, and Lankayan reach peak conditions between April and September, when visibility underwater can exceed 30 metres. Turtle nesting and hatching activity at Turtle Islands Park is also at its most reliable during these months. Wildlife watching in the Kinabatangan River corridor is excellent, as lower water levels concentrate animals along the riverbanks, making orangutan, pygmy elephant, and proboscis monkey sightings more predictable.
In Sarawak, the dry season opens up the national parks in full. Trekking in Gunung Mulu National Park becomes far more manageable, with trail conditions at their best. Longhouse visits along the Rejang and Skrang rivers are more easily arranged, and boat journeys on these rivers are safer and more comfortable. The famous Rainforest World Music Festival, held annually in Kuching in July, falls squarely within this window and draws visitors from across the globe.
The months of July and August represent the absolute peak of tourist activity. Accommodation books up quickly, particularly around Sipadan (which operates a strict daily permit quota) and in Kota Kinabalu. Booking several months in advance is strongly advised for this period.
What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing in moisture-wicking fabrics, a light waterproof jacket for afternoon showers, UV-protective swimwear and a rash vest for snorkelling and diving, high-factor reef-safe sunscreen, insect repellent containing DEET, sturdy waterproof trekking boots with ankle support, a dry bag for river and boat excursions, a compact head torch for early-morning wildlife walks, and electrolyte tablets for hydration on mountain hikes.
🌧️ North-East Monsoon — November to February (Wet Season, East Coast)
The north-east monsoon sweeps in from the South China Sea between November and February, bringing heavy and sustained rainfall primarily to the east coast of Sabah and to much of Sarawak. This is considered the low season, and while the weather presents genuine challenges, it also carries its own rewards for the flexible traveller.
On Sabah’s east coast — including the Semporna Archipelago and Sandakan — seas can be rough and dive operators frequently suspend trips to the outer islands. Sipadan permits become easier to obtain, and accommodation prices drop noticeably. However, many dive resorts and liveaboards close entirely during the worst weeks of November and December, so confirming operations in advance is essential.
Inland and at elevation, the wet season actually keeps the rainforest lush and extraordinarily alive. The Danum Valley and Maliau Basin — among Borneo’s most pristine wilderness areas — remain accessible, and the reduced visitor numbers lend the experience a particular intimacy. Leech socks become non-negotiable in the forest during these wetter months, but wildlife encounters can be just as rewarding.
Kota Kinabalu itself, on Sabah’s west coast, is somewhat sheltered from the north-east monsoon and remains a viable base throughout this period. The city’s restaurants, night markets, and cultural attractions are enjoyable regardless of season.
In Sarawak, Kuching receives increased rainfall but functions well as a city destination. The Sarawak Museum and its annexes, the waterfront, and the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (home to semi-wild orangutans) all operate year-round. The Bako National Park, accessible by boat from Kuching, remains open and offers some of the best proboscis monkey viewing in the world even during the wet season.
Chinese New Year, which falls in January or February depending on the lunar calendar, brings vibrant celebrations to Kuching, Kota Kinabalu, and Sibu. The atmosphere is festive and colourful, though some businesses close for several days around the main holiday.
What to pack: Quick-dry clothing and trousers, a high-quality waterproof poncho or rain jacket (not merely water-resistant), sealed waterproof bags for electronics, leech-proof socks and gaiters for jungle trekking, sandals that dry rapidly for wet conditions, a compact microfibre towel, anti-fungal foot powder, a portable umbrella, and a small first-aid kit with blister treatment.
🌊 South-West Monsoon — May to September (West Coast Wet, East Coast Dry)
The south-west monsoon, though generally gentler than its north-eastern counterpart, brings increased rainfall to the west coast of Sabah and to Sarawak’s interior from roughly May through to September. Importantly, this coincides with the dry season on the east coast, which is why the Sipadan diving season peaks during these very same months — the south-west monsoon barely affects the Celebes Sea.
For travellers focused on Kuching and Sarawak’s national parks, May through August can bring occasional heavy downpours in the afternoons, but mornings are frequently clear, and the overall conditions remain manageable for most activities. The Iban longhouses along Sarawak’s rivers are at their most welcoming during the Gawai Dayak harvest festival, celebrated on 1st and 2nd June each year. This is one of the most culturally immersive experiences Malaysian Borneo offers, and visitors fortunate enough to be invited to participate in the celebrations gain a rare insight into indigenous Dayak culture.
Trekking conditions in Mulu during this window are firm underfoot, and the cave systems — including Deer Cave and Lang’s Cave — are operational throughout the year.
What to pack: Lightweight long-sleeved shirts for sun and insect protection, a compact but packable rain jacket, sandal-style trekking footwear for river crossings, reef-safe sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat, a reusable water bottle with a filtration element, cultural gifts (such as small quality sweets or craft items) if visiting longhouses, a small padlock for guesthouse lockers, and anti-malarial medication if advised by your GP or travel clinic.
🌡️ Year-Round Considerations
Regardless of when you visit, certain conditions are constant in Malaysian Borneo. The heat and humidity are ever-present, making physical acclimatisation important on the first day or two. At altitude — particularly above 3,000 metres on Mount Kinabalu — temperatures can drop sharply at night, and thermal layers are necessary even in the driest months. Jellyfish blooms can affect coastal swimming at any time of year, so asking local advice before entering the sea is always prudent. Leeches are present in the forest year-round, increasing significantly after rainfall.
📋 Season Summary Table
🧳 Overall Best Time to Visit
If you can visit only once, the months of April, May, and early June represent the finest all-round window for Malaysian Borneo. The dry season is well established on the east coast, bringing excellent diving conditions around Sipadan and reliable wildlife watching along the Kinabatangan. Inland trekking in Danum Valley, Mulu, and on Mount Kinabalu is at its best, with manageable trails and lower risk of summit cloud. Crowds have not yet reached the intensity of July and August, meaning accommodation is easier to secure and permit queues are shorter. The heat is significant but no more extreme than any other month, and the landscape — fed by months of previous rain — is a deep, saturated green. Travellers with a particular interest in Sarawak’s indigenous festivals should target late May into early June to coincide with Gawai Dayak, an experience that elevates any trip to the region from memorable to genuinely transformative.
Where to stay?
1. Sepilok B&B
Nestled the rainforest edges of Sabah, Malaysian Borneo, Sepilok B&B has been welcoming budget-savvy wildlife lovers since 2006. Steps from the Rainforest Discovery Centre and just a short drive from the Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre, it’s hard to beat the location — you wake up to birdsong and fresh air, with the famous Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre practically on your doorstep. Rooms range from family chalets with balconies and garden views to more basic options, all keeping things affordable without sacrificing comfort. A complimentary local breakfast is served each morning, the on-site café is praised for its affordability, and staff are consistently described as friendly and full of local knowledge. It’s the kind of no-fuss base camp that wildlife enthusiasts dream about.
2. Nature Lodge Sepilok
Tucked into the lush edges of the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve in Sabah, Borneo, Sepilok Nature Lodge is a tranquil hideaway in a forest clearing, tastefully styled with bungalows dotted around dense foliage, boardwalks, and lakes. All 23 chalets feature verandas with beautiful lake or jungle views, and the resort’s main building — housing the restaurant — is built with a traditional wooden interior that reflects its natural surroundings. The beautifully landscaped gardens boast a remarkable collection of more than 150 different Asian orchid varieties. Best of all for wildlife enthusiasts, the lodge is just a five-minute walk from the famous Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center — meaning you might just wake up to an orangutan swinging through the trees outside your veranda. It’s the kind of place that makes you slow down, breathe in the rainforest air, and never want to leave.
3. Sepilok Jungle Resort
During our visit to Sepilok, we stayed at the Sepilok Jungle Resort, enclosed inside a tropical virgin rainforest, adjacent to the world-famous Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary. In fact, wild orangutans were visiting the Resort during our stay – we even saw one early in the morning walking around the boardwalks and apparently taking things from people’s balconies.
The rooms were basic but comfortable. The breakfasts were fine and they accommodated us being vegan. We also had an evening meal there which was traditional Malaysian fare – very tasty. The whole place is surrounded by rainforest, which is spectacular. In the evenings they run a night safari that goes out into the rainforest, which is a very noisy place at night with all the nocturnal creatures coming to life. We got to see some interesting bugs and birds on our adventure, including leeches … yuk!
In the evenings, they run a night safari that goes out into the rainforest, which is a very noisy place at night with all the nocturnal creatures coming to life.
The walk itself started close to the main lodge. Being in a rainforest means that the area gets more than its fair share of rain, so they have wellington boots you can borrow (I am a US size 13 … which proved to be challenging) as well as some very poor flashlights (or torches as our fellow Brits would say). As we waited for our group to gather we had a very unexpected treat, a young orangutan decided to build its nest in the tree right above our heads. We were told the attraction of this particular tree was its fruits, which were now fully ripe. It is obvious that orangutans don’t have any natural threats (apart from man) as they make one hell of a racket whilst building their bed for the night.
By the time we set off, it was pitch black. The dense jungle means that there is no natural light, so having flashlights with you is pretty much essential. The thing that really hits you the most is not the darkness but how really noisy the jungle is at night – there is a true cacophony of sounds emanating from all directions. If you are a light sleeper forget about having a good nights rest! During the tour, we got to see insects (pill millipedes and stick insects), invertebrates (leeches!), frogs and some small roosting tailorbirds.
At the end of the tour we did a leech check, and much to her horror Karen had two latched to her. One was on her jacket, and the other had managed to work its way onto her cleavage – I thought this was hilarious … she didn’t quite see the funny side.
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