Bali is a captivating Indonesian island that seamlessly blends ancient Hindu traditions, dramatic volcanic landscapes, verdant rice terraces and pristine beaches, offering travellers an extraordinary destination rich in culture, spirituality, natural beauty and unforgettable experiences across its diverse and vibrant regions.
Indonesia: Into the Highlands of Tana Toraja Sulawesi
🏔️ Into the Clouds: Trekking the Ancient Highlands of Tana Toraja
We’d been rattling around Indonesia for a few weeks by this point, and frankly, we were ready for something a bit different. Tana Toraja, tucked up in the highlands of South Sulawesi, had been on our radar for a while. This is a place that sits roughly 800 metres above sea level in the Sa’dan River valley, surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs and lush terraced rice paddies — a landscape that feels entirely removed from the sweaty coastal cities we’d come from. The Torajan people have lived here for centuries, arriving as far back as 2,500 to 1,500 BCE from mainland Southeast Asia, and they’ve cultivated one of the most distinctive and frankly fascinating cultures you’ll find anywhere on earth. The name itself — Tana Toraja — translates roughly as “Land of the People of the Uplands,” given to them by the Bugis and Makassarese lowlanders who traded with them. The region only really came to wider attention when the Dutch arrived in the early twentieth century, completing their colonial conquest of the area around 1906. Before that, Tana Toraja was remarkably isolated, its people largely left to get on with their elaborate rituals and extraordinary architecture in blissful peace. We arranged our trek through Local Guides, an eco-tour company that knows the area properly, and our guide Luther turned out to be absolutely brilliant — patient, knowledgeable, and possessed of an excellent sense of humour, which came in very handy over the next three days.
🎒 Day One — Bags with Budi, Ceremonies and a Thunderstorm That Meant Business
After breakfast, we were picked up along with our bags and taken to the Local Guides office, which is on the ground floor of Budi’s, the local manager’s house.
With our bags safely deposited, we set off in the van into the hills surrounding Rantepao, where we would be trekking with Luther for the next couple of days and nights.
We had been told that there was the possibility that we might be able to attend a ceremony to celebrate the completion of a new tongkonan. Luther confirmed we could go. It was so exciting! Anyway, when we arrived, it was approaching lunchtime, and the party was in full swing. A large group of ladies, ranging in age from children to some with a full head of grey hair, in traditional costumes, were performing a dance. Hundreds of other people, mostly in family groups, had set themselves up on the platforms underneath other tongkonans ready for their victuals. It was lovely to see the community in action. To get us out of the way, they got us to go up on the balcony of one of the tongkonan, which was being used as a sound desk. It was full of speakers and other electrical things. We’d been there a couple of minutes when we got the word to ask us to stop moving around, as we were causing dust to drop on the people sitting on the platform below.
It was interesting to see a traditional ceremony being supported by modern technology. The masters of ceremony had been given radio microphones to make announcements, which on the face of it sounded good, but they liked the sound of their own voices too much. I wish I could have pulled the plug on the sound system! Interestingly, they were also using a drone to film the event.
As we sat watching it was lunchtime for all the revellers, so mats replaced the dancers and a huge amount of food started to appear from all directions. It was a feast fit for a king. We sat there fascinated by proceedings when people appeared next to us offering food, which was all vegetarian, so we thought it only polite to obligingly eat it. It was so tasty. We’d been at the ceremony for about 90 minutes when Luther suggested we move on. So started out trekking. We passed through a couple of villages punctuated by rice fields, and along the way, we saw so many beautiful tongkonans and rice barns. About an hour after we’d left the ceremony it was time for our lunch. Luther suggested we stop at a farm and use the platform underneath one of their rice barns as our picnic spot. From nowhere Luther produced a huge lunch for all three of us from the depths of his backpack. In Indonesia is hard to be alone and that was the case as the farm dogs and chickens decided to join us. The dogs were respectful, but the cockerels were more aggressive and in your face. We threw them some rice we’d spilt, and they started fighting over it.
After lunch, we carried on walking. Our peace was rudely woken by the sounds of amplified singing. This was our first experience with the Indonesians’ love of Karaoke. The singing was emanating from a house next to the road, which doubled up as a local shop. Luther walked into the house and beckoned us to it. Again, this was something we’d not feel comfortable doing back home – walking into a stranger’s house. It was small inside, so I hung in the doorway while Karen went further in. There was a lady inside and it was not her that was singing. Karen and Luther peeked behind a curtain where two young girls were singing their hearts out. They didn’t see Karen and Luther at first and carried on singing. When they did finally see them, they screamed in shock followed by rolling around in laughter. It was lovely to see.
Our resting place for the night was a homestay located high on the hills overlooking Rantepao. The views were spectacular. Luther went in to see if they had room for us, which they did. It seemed that we were just about the only people staying there. This meant we had a choice of rooms, so we got to have one with the best view. The rooms were styled like tongkonans, with a large room in the middle with two smaller outside rooms. We had the outside room with a deck that faced the valley. This was very basic accommodation. Our space was probably about 3 metres by four metres with a low-pitched ceiling I could not stand up in. There were two small windows, with no glass just wooden flaps you could close to keep out the elements. The toilets were in a separate block which we could reach by going around the outside, but there was no staying in the adjoining rooms so we could walk through those to get to the toilets. For these occasions, our headlamps are our best friends for those middle-of-the-night calls of nature.
We had one electrical outlet that our plug adapters would not stay in and of course no air-conditioning. Our beds were simple mattresses on the floor and some blankets, which we of course didn’t need as our room was hot as hades. As hot as our room was, we were tired from the day’s exertions, so we managed to get an afternoon snooze in before dinner. Our restless sleep was shortened by claps of thunder and ‘pinging’ sounds of heavy raindrops on our room’s tin roof. It was very relaxing to hear the passing storm, although to be honest I am not sure Karen’s nerves were in the same state of rest as mine.
Once the storm had abated, we headed down to dinner. Apart from the family members, there was no one else there. As we waited for our Nasi Goreng to appear I couldn’t help but notice all the teenage boys chain-smoking. It is sad to see that nearly every man in Indonesia smokes, it is not just the older generations this is an issue for it is passed on to the youngsters. We’d seen children who must have been no older than ten smoking. Sadly, society does not seem to recognise this problem or if has then little seems to be happening to fix it. We can only hope. What I do find odd is that in Islamic countries alcohol and narcotics are considered ‘haram’ but tobacco is not seen as an intoxicant, after all, it does alter the state of mind. Complicated stuff!
🌧️ Day Two — Slippery Roads, Stiff Climbs and a Tongkonan Bedroom
We woke on day two to find that the overnight rain had not, as we’d optimistically hoped, cleared and left a fresh sparkling morning behind it. No. The road was an absolute mud bath. Now, I should tell you that my walking style on wet descents has evolved, over decades of embarrassing myself in various mountain ranges around the world, into something that is best described as “functional without dignity.” When the path got genuinely treacherous — and there were sections on day two where the red clay had turned into something with the consistency and grip of cold butter — I simply sat down and scooted. Yes, scooted. Bottom on the ground, hands braced, inching down the slope with absolutely no pretence of looking like a competent walker. The padded hiking trousers helped enormously. Luther had the grace not to laugh out loud, though his shoulders were doing suspicious things. Karen, to her credit, managed somewhat more elegantly, though she required several strategic rests on the steeper climbs as the morning heated up and the humidity climbed alongside us.
The trek on day two was noticeably more demanding than the first. The route took us up through forest sections and across exposed ridgelines where the views — when the cloud parted — were quite breathtaking. The Sa’dan River valley stretched out below us, its terraced rice paddies carved into the hillsides in steps that date back centuries. Rice cultivation has been central to Torajan life and economy since long before written records. The terraces themselves are maintained communally under a system called sekaa, where members of a community work together on agricultural tasks. We passed through several hamlets where life appeared to operate at a pace that the modern world had not yet managed to disrupt significantly: women sorting coffee beans (Toraja coffee is genuinely excellent and has been cultivated here commercially since the Dutch colonial era), elderly men sitting on the carved verandas of their tongkonan, children chasing chickens with the purposeful inefficiency that children the world over bring to that particular task.
Karen began to struggle badly, a combination of the heat and the effort of ascending all the hills. We reached a particularly long and, in some places, steep ascent during the hottest part of the day. She got to breaking point and three times had to sit down on the road to rest. Luther pressed on and we eventually lost sight of him.
Finally, we reached the summit and much to our relief it was now lunchtime. Luther found us another rice barn to shelter under for lunch and produced another feast. As usual, we were joined by the local dogs, who are ever the opportunists. One snatched a bag of our rice crackers and ran off to the long grass to eat his ill-gotten gains.
We felt a lot better from taking a rest and eating something.
The afternoon trekking was a lot more pleasant. For a start, it was more of a downhill trajectory. Secondly, we found a lot more shade from taller trees on the roadside.
It was late afternoon before we reached our destination. We had covered about 15km, which had been challenging in the heat and rolling hills of Toraja. We were knackered.
We were staying with a family in their tongkonan. The men folk were away working on a farm. The lady of the house was to be our hostess. Our room was the front room of the tongkonan, comfortable but basic.
When we first arrived, we were given a most welcome cup of tea and the chance to put our feet up.
Later we were served a delicious home-cooked dinner. I am not sure our hostess had much experience feeding vegetarians, but she did a great job.
As we settled in our bed for the night there was a tremendous noise coming from next door. It was karaoke! People were coming and going on foot and motorbikes, with each entrance and departure accompanied by a choir of barking dogs. The singing went on for hours but did quieten down around one in the morning. Perhaps we could finally get some sleep. Unfortunately, no one had shared our agenda with the local cockerels who seemed to coordinate the start of their crowing with the fading of the last note of the karaoke. What a nightmare – literally!
It was hard to raise the enthusiasm for the day ahead after such a horrible night’s sleep. The good news was that we’d finished our trekking so today we’d be ferried around in a van with short walks in between.
We sleepily made our way down to breakfast feeling grumpy with the partygoers, dogs and cockerels who had contributed to our broken night’s sleep. I should also mention it was so hot in our room. A trifactor plus one (I don’t know if there is such a word as ‘quadfactor’) of reasons we didn’t get enough sleep. Luther greeted us and was apologetic, even though none of the things that kept us awake was his fault. What we thought was a party turned out to be a wake. An elderly lady next door had passed away in the early evening of the previous day and the villagers had called upon the family to give their respect, which in Toraja involves Karaoke. We suddenly felt guilty about feeling mean about being kept awake by the music and singing. Whilst this excused the people and dogs, the cockerels were not let off the hook!
We sat there enjoying a cup of coffee, which was not exactly the best, but still welcome. Next door some of the men of the village gathered, resting on their haunches as they smoked cigarettes and chatted. One man collected a couple of fierce-looking cockerels and pegged them to the spot with a short string, so they were just out of reach of each other. Cock fighting is a popular sport in Indonesia and these birds were in training.
At some point during our hike, Karen had mentioned to Luther that I liked potatoes. So, this morning he went in search of potatoes from the neighbours’ gardens. He didn’t find any but did manage to get some cassavas, which our hostess had cooked up. So, for breakfast, we were served with a huge plate of fried cassava.
It was a delight to watch people go about their business as we ate our breakfast. As we ate an elderly lady came over to speak to our hostess. Her years of wisdom were etched into the wrinkles of her face. Despite the fact we shared no common language she and Karen engaged in a conversation of sorts. She was still there after we’d gathered our bags and readied to leave, she got some photos of us with her and our hostess. It is quite amusing to look back on these as she was tiny and barely reached my waist. It is another picture to add to my collection of me with short people on our travels.
🛺 Day Three — A Van, a Wedding, Cassava Breakfast and Buffalo Market
We had to walk about a kilometre from the village to meet our driver. It was another glorious day, and it was a delight to travel through the beautiful Toraja countryside.
After about half an hour of driving, we pulled over and left the van to take a short walk through another village. It was Sunday so there was a lot more activity on the streets of the village. Children were at play and families milled around in their Sunday best on the to and from church.
It was not a day of rest for everyone. We came across a group of young girls weaving decorations for a celebration. Karen was curious to find out what they were up to, so we spent a few minutes observing them at work.
A little further on we came to a neat little church on the side of the road where they were obviously wrapping up their Sunday service. Luther asked if we’d like to see inside, obviously the answer was yes.
A few families were hanging around inside the church. We looked very scruffy next to the congregation, but they were so welcoming. Of course, we were now a captive audience, and they all wanted their photographs taken with us. There was one young family with twin baby girls, and they were all too keen to hand the babies over to us to hold while they took photos. Giving your baby to a total stranger seemed somewhat bizarre.
We finally escaped the church and continued our walk through the village, where we came across a large group of people setting up for a ceremony. There was going to be a wedding the following day so the community was busy getting ready for the hoards who would be descending here over the next few days. There were people setting up the platform where the marriage ceremony would be performed, and other platforms with shelters for the revellers. As we as getting the structures ready there was an army of women (apparently the men don’t do this) preparing huge amounts of food, from vegetables to chicken to fish. As we stood talking to these women a young man, around eleven years old came up and started to chat to Karen. He was very intelligent and most probably somewhere on the autism spectrum. As we moved around, he continued to follow us, even as we left to go. His mother became concerned and came over to see what was going on. Once she realised who we were she relaxed somewhat.
It was now lunchtime, so we were picked up by our driver and taken into the centre of Rantepao where Luther took us to the restaurant where he left his motorbike when he was off trekking with clients. The food here was very cheap and tasted marvellous.
In the centre of Rantepao, there is a large market for buffalo. Luther offered to take us there to have a look around. There were hundreds of bulls on display, and we were able to wander freely around the yards and pens, which felt a bit sketchy. Luckily, these bulls are all very timid, because I am sure they could do a lot of damage with their horns and sheer size if they set their minds to it.
The best time to visit Tana Toraja
🗺️ When to Visit Sulawesi: A Seasonal Guide
Sulawesi — the orchid-shaped island at the heart of the Indonesian archipelago — does not follow a single, island-wide weather pattern. Its dramatic topography, four peninsulas, and position straddling the equator mean that the north, south, centre, and east can experience entirely different conditions at the same time. Understanding the two main seasons and the transitional periods between them is essential to planning a rewarding visit.
☀️ Dry Season: April to October
The dry season is widely regarded as the best time to visit most of Sulawesi. Rainfall is at its lowest, humidity is more comfortable, and road conditions — vital on an island where overland travel is common — are at their most reliable. South Sulawesi, home to the Toraja highlands and the diving mecca of the Makassar Strait, enjoys its most settled weather between June and September. Skies are clear, Torajaland’s landscapes of tiered rice paddies and cliff-face graves are at their most photogenic, and diving visibility around Wakatobi Marine National Park in the south-east reaches exceptional levels.
North Sulawesi, particularly the Bunaken Marine Park and the Minahasa highlands around Manado, benefits from dry conditions roughly between May and October. Sea conditions are calm, coral reefs are at their clearest, and hiking to volcanic craters such as Mahawu and Lokon is straightforward. This is also the period when local festivals are more frequently held, and the highland markets around Tomohon buzz with activity. Temperatures across the island sit comfortably between 26°C and 32°C at sea level during the dry season, cooling noticeably in the highlands of Torajaland and Minahasa, where evenings can drop to 15°C or lower.
What to pack: Lightweight linen or cotton shirts and trousers, shorts for coastal areas, a sun hat, high-factor sunscreen (SPF 50), UV-protective swimwear, a light fleece or warm layer for Torajaland or Minahasa highland evenings, reef-safe insect repellent, water sandals, and walking shoes with grip for volcanic terrain. A dry bag is advisable for boat trips.
🌧️ Wet Season: November to March
The wet season brings heavy monsoonal rainfall, particularly to South and Central Sulawesi. November through February sees the highest precipitation, with intense afternoon and evening downpours that can render some rural roads impassable. The scenery becomes extraordinarily lush during this period — waterfalls in the highlands swell, paddy fields turn an electric green, and the landscape takes on a painterly quality. Visitor numbers drop considerably, prices at guesthouses and hotels fall, and the island’s wildlife is notably more active.
For the more adventurous and flexible traveller, the wet season offers a genuinely different Sulawesi. Torajaland’s traditional funeral ceremonies and Ma’nene (the ritual of re-dressing ancestral remains) can occur at any time of year but are more frequently held between late July and September; the wet season sees a lull in these large gatherings. Wakatobi diving is typically suspended or restricted by rough seas between December and February. However, the northern diving sites around Bunaken are often in better shape than the south at this time, as the two ends of the island experience differing monsoon patterns.
Flooding is a risk in low-lying coastal towns, and domestic flights can be disrupted. Travellers with tight itineraries or limited tolerance for uncertainty may find this period frustrating. Those with the flexibility to adapt will find quiet, verdant, and often extraordinarily beautiful conditions.
What to pack: A lightweight but high-quality waterproof jacket or packable poncho, quick-dry clothing, waterproof sandals or boots, a dry bag for electronics and documents, a small travel umbrella, insect repellent (mosquito activity increases with rainfall), electrolyte sachets to manage hydration in humidity, and a first aid kit with antihistamine and antiseptic. Pack clothing you do not mind getting wet, and always carry spares in a sealed plastic bag.
🌤️ Shoulder Season: March to April
March and April form a transitional bridge between the wet and dry seasons. Rainfall begins to ease, particularly in the south, though brief afternoon showers remain common. Waterfalls and rice terraces are still lush from the rains, but the worst of the monsoonal deluges has passed. Diving conditions begin to improve steadily from late March, and the landscape looks at its most verdant without the sustained heavy rainfall of the peak wet months. Crowds have not yet built to their dry-season peak, making this a quietly rewarding window for those seeking the best of both conditions.
Road travel becomes more reliable, and domestic transport connections run more consistently. Accommodation rates remain lower than the peak dry months of July and August. Birding in the Tangkoko Batuangus Nature Reserve — home to the endemic Maleo bird and the world’s smallest primate, the tarsier — is excellent in this transitional period, when forest activity is high.
What to pack: A packable waterproof layer, lightweight breathable clothing, solid walking footwear, sunscreen, insect repellent, and an extra dry bag for occasional rain. A light fleece for highland evenings. Binoculars are strongly recommended for wildlife areas.
🍂 Shoulder Season: October to November
October and November mark the transition into the wet season. The south begins to see building rainfall from mid-October, while the north remains drier into November. Diving conditions around Bunaken and Lembeh Strait remain good in October, and the Lembeh Strait — famous for muck diving and extraordinary macro marine life — is at its most accessible before the seas turn. The Minahasa highlands are at their most atmospheric in this period, with low cloud and mist drifting over volcanic craters and highland lakes.
Sulawesi’s wildlife corridors, particularly the Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park in the north, see heightened activity in October, and this is a productive month for endemic species such as the Sulawesi bear cuscus and the babirusa. Funeral ceremonies and harvest-related cultural events in Torajaland may still be encountered in October. November brings increasing unpredictability, and flexibility in travel plans becomes important from mid-month onwards.
What to pack: A packable waterproof layer, lightweight trousers and long-sleeved shirts (sun and insects), sturdy footwear, sunscreen, insect repellent, binoculars for wildlife, and a light fleece. Begin transitioning your packing towards wet-season preparedness from mid-October.
🤿 Special Consideration: Diving and Marine Seasons
Wakatobi Marine National Park, Bunaken National Marine Park, and Lembeh Strait are among Sulawesi’s most compelling draws, and each has its own optimal window. Bunaken and Lembeh are best visited between May and October, with October particularly renowned for Lembeh’s macro diving. Wakatobi’s peak visibility runs from April to December, with July to September ideal. The Banda Sea passages between Sulawesi and the Maluku Islands are navigable by liveaboard principally between April and November. Those whose visit is primarily dive-focused should plan firmly within the dry-season window.
🎉 Festivals and Cultural Timing
The Toraja funeral ceremonies that draw visitors from around the world are not fixed to a calendar but are largely concentrated between July and September, when the dry season makes logistics tractable and when the harvest has freed up resources for the elaborate multi-day rituals. The Pesta Laut (Sea Festival) is celebrated along various coastal communities at different times of year. Checking local festival schedules when booking is advisable, as these events are transformative but can also affect accommodation availability in smaller highland villages.
🌟 Overall Best Time to Visit Sulawesi
For the great majority of travellers, the period from June to September represents the undisputed sweet spot for a visit to Sulawesi. The dry season is at its most reliable, diving conditions across all three major marine parks are at or near their peak, the Torajaland highlands are accessible and visually spectacular, and cultural ceremonies are most likely to be encountered. July and August in particular offer the intersection of settled weather, extraordinary underwater visibility, and the highest chance of witnessing a Torajan funeral ceremony — the cultural event most associated with the island in the minds of international visitors. Temperatures are warm rather than oppressive, and the highland interiors provide a natural respite from coastal heat. Those with flexibility but wishing to avoid the peak crowd window might consider May or October as quieter alternatives that retain most of the dry season’s advantages whilst offering lower accommodation rates and a more contemplative atmosphere. Only travellers with a specific appetite for lush, rain-soaked landscapes, reduced budgets, and dramatically fewer fellow visitors should seriously consider the wet season months of December through February — and even then, keeping plans loose and expectations flexible is essential.
Getting to and Around Tana Toraja
🌏 Planning Your Visit to Tana Toraja, Indonesia
Tana Toraja is a highland region in the central mountains of Sulawesi, Indonesia — a destination unlike anywhere else on earth. Set among dramatic limestone karsts, terraced rice fields, and mist-cloaked hills, it is home to the Toraja people, whose ancient traditions, extraordinary architecture, and elaborate rituals around death and the afterlife make it one of South-East Asia’s most compelling cultural destinations. Visitor numbers remain relatively low compared to Bali or Java, which means you can still explore in an atmosphere that feels genuinely undisturbed.
📍 Location
Tana Toraja sits in the highlands of South Sulawesi province, roughly in the centre of the island. The main town is Rantepao, which lies in a broad valley surrounded by limestone karst formations, rivers, and terraced rice paddies. It serves as the base for most visitors and is where the majority of accommodation, restaurants, and transport connections are found. The nearby town of Makale, to the south, is the administrative capital of the regency but is of less interest to travellers. The entire regency covers around 3,200 square kilometres of rugged mountain terrain, and the burial sites, traditional villages, and ceremonial grounds are scattered widely across it.
✈️ Getting There
By Air
The most straightforward way to reach Tana Toraja is to fly to Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport in Makassar, the provincial capital of South Sulawesi and a well-connected hub for eastern Indonesia. Flights to Makassar operate from Jakarta, Bali, Manado, and several other Indonesian cities. Tana Toraja has its own small regional airport (airport code TRT), and Wings Air has operated flights between Makassar and Toraja, though services on this route have been intermittent — it is worth checking availability at the time of booking. If no direct flights to Toraja are running, the journey continues overland from Makassar.
By Bus
Buses depart daily from the Daya bus terminal in Makassar, which is around 20 minutes from the city centre by bemo (local minibus). The journey to Rantepao takes roughly eight to ten hours and includes a meal stop along the way. There are both morning and evening departures. This is the most economical option and costs around 200,000 IDR per person one way. Tickets can be bought in advance in Makassar town, though you depart from the Daya terminal.
By Car
A private car with driver hired from Makassar costs approximately 750,000 to 1,000,000 IDR and takes around eight hours over generally well-maintained roads. For a group, this represents good value and offers more flexibility along the route. It is also possible to self-drive a rental car from Makassar for around 600,000 IDR per day, though this is recommended only for those already experienced with driving conditions in Indonesia.
🛺 Getting Around
Public transport within Tana Toraja is minimal, and the burial sites, villages, and ceremonial grounds are spread widely across the highland terrain. There are three practical options for getting around.
Hire a Local Guide with Car or Motorbike
This is the recommended approach, particularly for first-time visitors. Local guides provide far more than transport — they give context to what you are seeing, can explain ritual significance, translate conversations with villagers, and open doors (sometimes literally) that are closed to independent visitors. Hotels in Rantepao can usually arrange a guide with a car or motorbike for the day. Rates for a car with driver start at around 400,000–800,000 IDR per day depending on the distance covered and whether a guide is included. A motorbike with guide tends to be at the lower end of this range.
Rent a Scooter
Scooter hire is available in Rantepao and gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace. It is an affordable option — around 70,000–100,000 IDR per day — and suits those who are comfortable navigating on their own. Roads to most major sites are reasonably passable, though mountain roads can be narrow and steep.
Bemo (Local Minibus)
The local minibus network connects Rantepao with many surrounding villages and is an affordable, sociable way to travel. It is a good option for reaching individual sites and meeting locals along the way. Bemos can also be chartered as a group.
For most visitors, the best combination is a knowledgeable local guide for day trips, supplementing with short walks between sites that are close together.
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