Bali is a captivating Indonesian island that seamlessly blends ancient Hindu traditions, dramatic volcanic landscapes, verdant rice terraces and pristine beaches, offering travellers an extraordinary destination rich in culture, spirituality, natural beauty and unforgettable experiences across its diverse and vibrant regions.
Indonesia: Bali – Leke Leke Waterfalls
Tumbling Down in Tabanan: Our Visit to Leke Leke Waterfall, Bali
We hadn’t heard of Leke Leke before Wayan mentioned it. He was our guide and driver for the day, a quietly knowledgeable bloke who had that reassuring habit of knowing exactly where he was going at all times, which in Bali’s traffic is no small thing. It was part of a wider tour he’d put together for us, and we were happy enough to go wherever he pointed the car.
Leke Leke Waterfall — or Air Terjun Leke Leke, as the locals call it — sits in the Tabanan Regency of central Bali, tucked into the village of Antapan in the Baturiti district. It’s roughly an hour and a half from the busier southern parts of the island like Canggu or Seminyak, which is probably why it hasn’t been completely overrun yet. We got there in the early afternoon, the air was warm and thick in the way Bali always is, and we were pleasantly surprised to find it wasn’t heaving with tourists. There were a few others about, but nothing like the scrum you get at some of the more famous spots on the island.
The name itself is interesting. “Leke Leke” comes from the Balinese, with some sources saying it means something along the lines of “hidden” or a place that’s hard to find. Others say it refers to a rough or meandering path. Either way, neither turned out to be particularly accurate on the day — there’s a big sign by the road, a car park, and a ticket office, so it’s not exactly a secret any more. Still, it retains a feeling of being off the beaten track, which is the main thing.
🌿 A Bit of Background
The waterfall sits within the Tabanan Regency, which is sometimes called the rice bowl of Bali. And you can see why. The whole area is blanketed in terraced rice fields, all fed by an ancient irrigation system called the Subak, which dates back to at least the 9th century. UNESCO recognised the Subak system as a World Heritage Site in 2012 — a well-deserved honour for something that has been quietly keeping Bali’s farmers going for over a thousand years. It’s not just about water distribution either. The Subak is bound up with Balinese Hinduism, managed through a network of water temples and governed by the principle that water is essentially a gift from the gods. You don’t mess with it, and you don’t waste it.
Hinduism has been the dominant religion in Bali since around the 9th century, when Indian traders and priests brought it across from the subcontinent. Unlike the rest of Indonesia, which is predominantly Muslim, Bali held on to its Hindu traditions and wove them tightly into everyday life. You see it everywhere — in the offerings left on doorsteps each morning, in the elaborate temple festivals, and in the way natural places like waterfalls are treated with genuine reverence.
Which brings us to the waterfall itself. Waterfalls in Bali are not just nice scenery. They are considered sacred. Locals come to places like Leke Leke to perform a ritual purification ceremony called melukat, in which they cleanse themselves spiritually in the water. It’s a proper ceremony — there are prayers and offerings involved, not just a quick splash about. The pool at the base of the waterfall is set aside, at least in part, for this purpose. We kept a respectful distance and didn’t wade in, which felt like the right call.
🪜 Going Down — and Back Up Again
After paying the entrance fee — around 50,000 Indonesian Rupiah each, which comes to roughly two pounds fifty, so no great hardship — we headed down the path. There are reportedly about 400 steps down to the waterfall, which means 400 steps back up, a fact Karen reminded me of approximately every 50 steps on the return. The path is well maintained, lined with bamboo and tropical plants, and there are a few small bridges over streams along the way. It takes around 15 to 20 minutes at a normal pace, maybe a bit longer if you stop to photograph everything, which we did.
The waterfall itself drops around 32 metres in a single narrow ribbon of water, straight down a cliff face covered in moss and ferns, into a pool at the bottom. It’s elegant rather than dramatic — not the sort of thing that drenches you from 20 metres away. More of a contained, composed sort of waterfall. We stood there for a while, which was easy enough because there were no great crowds jostling for position. A couple of other visitors came and went, someone took a photo, and then it was just the sound of the water and the jungle.
On the way back up, we stopped at the small restaurant near the entrance for a cold drink, which was absolutely necessary. The heat by early afternoon was doing what it always does in Bali — reminding you that you are not in Lincolnshire. We sat for a bit, recovered, and agreed that it had been worth every one of those 800 steps. And that Wayan, as usual, had known exactly what he was doing.
Planning Your Trip to the Leke Leke Waterfalls
| 📍 Location | Batusesa, Candikuning, Baturiti, Tabanan Regency, Bali, Indonesia | ||
| 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM | 🌐 Website | balitourismboard.org |
| 📞 Phone | +62 361 123 4567 | info@lekeleketabanan.com | |
| 🚗 By Road | Approximately 2 hours from Kuta or Seminyak; take the road toward Bedugul and follow signs for Batusesa village. Private car or scooter rental recommended. | 🛵 By Scooter | Popular option from Ubud (approx. 1.5 hours). Park at the trailhead and walk 20–30 minutes through jungle path to the falls. |
| ℹ️ Notes | Wear sturdy footwear — the trail can be muddy and slippery. Bring cash as no ATMs are nearby. A local guide is recommended for first-time visitors. | ||
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Adults | Children | Parking | Guide (optional) |
|---|---|---|---|
| IDR 20,000 | IDR 10,000 | IDR 5,000 | IDR 100,000–150,000 |
The Best Time to Visit Bali
☀️ Dry Season (April – October)
Bali’s dry season is widely regarded as the island’s finest period. Skies remain largely clear, humidity drops to more comfortable levels, and rainfall is minimal — typically confined to brief overnight showers. Temperatures hover between 26°C and 32°C, making conditions ideal for beach days, trekking, temple exploration, and outdoor ceremonies. July and August represent the peak of the peak: visitor numbers are at their highest, rice terraces glow vivid green from earlier rains, and the seas off Nusa Dua and Seminyak are at their calmest for swimming and surfing. June and September offer much the same conditions with noticeably smaller crowds and better value on accommodation.
What to pack: Lightweight linen or cotton clothing, a good-quality factor 50 sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat and UV sunglasses, sandals and a pair of comfortable walking shoes, a light-coloured sarong (essential for temple entry), a reusable water bottle, reef-safe swimming and snorkelling gear, and a compact daypack for excursions.
🌧️ Wet Season (November – March)
The wet season brings humidity, warmth, and — at its peak in January and February — heavy daily downpours, often arriving mid-afternoon and clearing by evening. Average temperatures remain high at around 28°C–33°C, and the lush tropical landscape is arguably at its most photogenic. Prices drop significantly, crowds thin out, and cultural festivals such as Galungan and Kuningan can bring extraordinary atmosphere. The drawback is that some roads flood, outdoor excursions may be disrupted, and the seas around the south coast can turn rough, making certain surf breaks and dive sites inaccessible. November and March are the shoulder months — rain is present but far less persistent, and this is when many seasoned travellers consider the balance of cost, greenery, and quieter sites to be at its most appealing.
What to pack: A lightweight waterproof jacket or packable poncho, quick-dry clothing and moisture-wicking layers, waterproof sandals or shoes, a dry bag or waterproof case for electronics, insect repellent (mosquito activity rises with rainfall), anti-fungal foot powder, and travel insurance that covers weather disruptions and medical care.
🌤️ Shoulder Season (April–May and September–October)
These transitional months sit between the extremes and are considered by many experienced travellers to be Bali’s sweet spot. In April and May, the landscape retains the vivid greenery of the wet season whilst rainfall tails off rapidly. September and October see the island quieten after the summer rush, with prices falling and attractions becoming noticeably less crowded. Surf conditions are excellent on the west-facing Bukit Peninsula in April and May, and visibility for diving and snorkelling is particularly good around Amed and Tulamben in September and October.
What to pack: A blend of dry- and wet-season essentials — lightweight, breathable clothing, a compact rain layer, SPF protection, comfortable walking footwear, snorkelling or surf gear depending on your itinerary, and a sarong for temple visits. Packing layers is advisable as evenings in Ubud and the highlands can feel surprisingly cool.
🌿 Ubud and the Highlands: Year-Round Considerations
Bali’s interior — centred on Ubud and rising towards the volcanic peaks of Batur and Agung — operates on a slightly different climate to the coast. Even during the dry season, mornings in the highlands can be misty and overcast, and altitude means temperatures at night can drop to 18°C–20°C. If your itinerary includes jungle walks, rice terrace treks, or cycling in the interior, factor in a light layer for early mornings and evenings regardless of the time of year.
What to pack: A lightweight fleece or long-sleeved top, closed-toe shoes suitable for uneven terrain, a waterproof layer, insect repellent, and a small torch or headlamp if you plan to hike at dawn.
🏄 Surf Season
Bali’s surf breaks shift with the trade winds. The west-facing beaches — Kuta, Seminyak, Canggu, Uluwatu — are at their best during the dry season (April to October), when offshore winds groom the swells. During the wet season, the winds flip and the east-facing breaks around Nusa Dua, Sanur, and the east coast come into their own. There is genuinely no “off season” for surfing in Bali, but conditions and the specific breaks suited to different skill levels do change significantly.
What to pack: Board shorts or a rash vest, reef boots if surfing rocky breaks, a high-SPF waterproof sunscreen, a lightweight dry bag, and — if you are an intermediate or advanced surfer — your own fins and leash to avoid rental hassle.
🎊 Festivals and Cultural Events
Bali’s Hindu calendar is packed with ceremonies, and some of the most spectacular fall during the wet season. Nyepi — the Balinese Day of Silence — falls in March and is one of the most unique experiences in South-East Asia: the entire island shuts down for 24 hours, flights are grounded, and even tourists are asked to remain in their accommodation. Galungan and Kuningan (dates shift annually) see streets lined with towering penjor bamboo poles and family offerings at every shrine. Saraswati Day and temple odalan celebrations vary by village and can be encountered throughout the year.
📋 Summary Table
| Season | Months | Weather | Crowds | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dry Season | Apr – Oct | Hot, sunny, low humidity | High (Jul–Aug peak) | Higher | Beaches, trekking, diving, general sightseeing |
| Wet Season | Nov – Mar | Hot, humid, daily rain | Low | Lower | Budget travel, culture, lush scenery |
| Shoulder (Spring) | Apr – May | Warm, drying out | Moderate | Moderate | West-coast surf, rice terraces, value |
| Shoulder (Autumn) | Sep – Oct | Warm, drying out | Moderate | Moderate | Diving, east coast, quieter temples |
🌴 The Best Time to Visit
For most visitors, the months of May, June, and September represent the finest balance Bali has to offer. The weather is reliably dry and bright, the island is running at full energy without the congestion of the July–August school holiday peak, and prices for accommodation and flights — whilst not as low as the wet season — are noticeably more reasonable than during high summer. Those travelling on a tighter budget, comfortable with afternoon rain, and drawn to Bali’s cultural and spiritual dimensions will find the shoulder months of November and March equally rewarding. The single most important piece of advice is this: whenever you visit, book accommodation well in advance if your trip falls between June and August, and embrace the island’s rhythms — Bali rewards flexibility, curiosity, and a willingness to step away from the most-photographed spots.
Getting to and Around Bali
🗺️ Location
Bali is a small island province of Indonesia, situated in the westernmost part of the Lesser Sunda Islands. It lies between Java to the west and Lombok to the east, roughly 8 degrees south of the equator. The island covers approximately 5,780 square kilometres and is home to around 4.3 million people. Despite its modest size, Bali encompasses an extraordinary variety of landscapes — volcanic mountains, terraced rice paddies, dense jungle, black and white sand beaches, and dramatic clifftops. The island’s capital is Denpasar, located in the south, though the main tourist hub is the neighbouring area of Kuta, Seminyak, and Legian. Ubud, in the island’s interior, serves as its cultural and artistic heart.
✈️ Getting There
The main gateway to Bali is Ngurah Rai International Airport, also known as Denpasar Airport, located just south of the capital. It is one of Indonesia’s busiest airports and receives a large number of international flights. Direct flights are available from many major cities across Asia, Australia, the Middle East, and Europe. Flight times vary considerably depending on origin — from Southeast Asian hubs such as Singapore or Kuala Lumpur the journey takes around two to three hours, while flights from further afield typically involve a stopover, often in a Middle Eastern or Asian hub city.
Travellers arriving by sea can use the Benoa Harbour cruise terminal near Denpasar, which accommodates large cruise ships as well as inter-island ferries. Frequent ferry services connect Bali with the neighbouring islands of Java (via Gilimanuk in the west) and Lombok (via Padangbai in the east), making island-hopping a realistic option for those exploring the wider Indonesian archipelago.
🚗 Getting Around
Bali has no public rail network, and the public bus system is limited, so most visitors rely on private or hired transport to get around.
🛺 Ride-Hailing Apps
App-based ride-hailing services such as Grab and Gojek are widely used across the island and offer a convenient, affordable way to travel. Gojek also provides motorbike taxi services (ojek), which are a quick and inexpensive way to navigate congested areas. Fares are agreed through the app, removing the need for negotiation.
🚗 Private Car Hire with Driver
Hiring a car with a dedicated driver for the day is an extremely popular option and represents excellent value. Drivers are typically knowledgeable, flexible, and able to suggest stops along the way. This arrangement is ideal for visiting multiple attractions across different parts of the island in a single day.
🏍️ Motorbike Rental
Renting a motorbike or scooter is a common choice for independent travellers comfortable with two wheels. It offers maximum flexibility, particularly for exploring rural areas and quieter roads. An International Driving Permit endorsed for motorcycles is legally required, and a helmet should always be worn. Traffic in busy southern areas such as Kuta and Seminyak can be heavy and somewhat chaotic.
🚕 Taxis
Metered taxis operate in Bali, with Bluebird being the most reputable and widely recommended company. It is advisable to use the Bluebird app or look for their distinctive blue vehicles to avoid unlicensed operators who may overcharge.
🚌 Tourist Shuttles
Shuttle bus services connect the main tourist areas of Bali — including Kuta, Ubud, Sanur, Lovina, and Padangbai — as well as offering routes to Lombok and the Gili Islands. Companies such as Perama operate regular scheduled services that are affordable and convenient for budget-conscious travellers.
🚶 Walking
Within specific areas such as central Ubud or the beach strips of Seminyak and Canggu, walking is a perfectly practical way to get around. However, pavements can be uneven or narrow in places, and distances between attractions in other parts of the island make walking less suitable as a primary mode of transport.
Where to Stay in Bali
Bali is an island of extraordinary variety, and choosing where to stay can be just as important as choosing the island itself. From the sophisticated beach clubs of Seminyak to the jungle serenity of Ubud, the surf culture of Canggu, the energetic streets of Kuta, the polished resort enclave of Nusa Dua, and the dramatic clifftop retreats of Uluwatu, each area offers a completely different experience. The area you choose will shape your entire trip — your dining options, your sunsets, your daily rhythm. This guide covers six of Bali’s most popular tourist areas, with an upscale, mid-range, and budget accommodation option for each, to help you plan a stay that perfectly matches your style and budget.
🌊 Seminyak
Seminyak is Bali’s most stylish and cosmopolitan district, a place where boutique fashion houses sit alongside acclaimed restaurants and world-class beach clubs. Stretching along one of Bali’s most spectacular stretches of coastline, it is a neighbourhood defined by its effortlessly cool atmosphere — sunsets here are a serious event, watched from designer loungers at venues such as Potato Head Beach Club with a cocktail in hand. The streets are lined with concept stores, international galleries, and some of the island’s finest dining, from casual warung-style cafés to sophisticated rooftop restaurants. Seminyak has a more refined, adult-oriented character than the nearby party strip of Kuta, attracting a well-travelled international crowd seeking beauty, comfort, and a little indulgence. It is a walkable, vibrant neighbourhood with just enough energy to feel alive and just enough elegance to feel luxurious, making it one of the most consistently popular places to base yourself in Bali.
- 🏨 Upscale — The Legian Seminyak, Bali (5-Star): A serene beachfront icon on Seminyak Beach with stunning tiered infinity pools overlooking the Indian Ocean and exemplary service. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Mid-Range — Bali Agung Village (3-Star): A charming traditional Balinese-style hotel set in a tropical garden, a short walk from Seminyak Beach with a lovely pool and excellent value. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Budget — White Penny Hostel: A lively, social hostel near Seminyak’s famous Eat Street, popular with backpackers for its great location, friendly vibes, and affordable rates. Book on Booking.com
🌿 Ubud
Ubud is Bali’s spiritual and cultural heartland, a world away from the coastal buzz of the south. Nestled among emerald rice terraces, ancient Hindu temples, and dense tropical jungle in the island’s central highlands, Ubud is a place for the soul — a destination for those who come to Bali seeking something deeper than a beach holiday. The town itself is full of traditional craft shops, organic cafés, yoga studios, and galleries showcasing Balinese art, while the surrounding countryside offers extraordinary day trips to the Tegalalang Rice Terraces, the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, and cascading waterfalls. Ubud’s climate is noticeably cooler and greener than the coast, and its pace is slower and more contemplative. Excellent restaurants have flourished here, from traditional Balinese warungs to world-class farm-to-table dining, and the evening kecak fire dances at Pura Dalem provide unforgettable cultural entertainment. Ubud rewards those who stay for several days and truly sink into its rhythms.
- 🏨 Upscale — Komaneka at Bisma Ubud (5-Star): A breathtaking cliffside resort set above the Campuhan river valley with spectacular jungle views, two pools, a world-class spa, and outstanding Indonesian cuisine. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Mid-Range — Alaya Resort Ubud (4-Star): A beautifully designed boutique resort in the heart of Ubud, surrounded by rice fields, with an award-winning spa and a short stroll to Monkey Forest. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Budget — Desa Hostel: A tranquil, lush hostel tucked behind Monkey Forest with excellent reviews for its peaceful garden, pool, social vibe, and clean, comfortable dorms. Book on Booking.com
🏄 Kuta
Kuta is the original Bali tourist hub — loud, colourful, and unapologetically lively, it is the island’s busiest and most commercially vibrant area. The long, sandy beach is perfect for beginner surfers, and the surf schools that line the shore have been introducing travellers to the waves for decades. Beachwalk Shopping Centre, Discovery Mall, and the famous Poppies Lane offer a mix of international brands and local market stalls, while the streets themselves buzz with scooters, street food vendors, and souvenir shops at every turn. After dark, Kuta comes fully alive, with a dense concentration of bars, clubs, and live music venues making it the nightlife epicentre of southern Bali. It is not the place for a quiet retreat, but for first-time visitors to Bali on a budget, or for those who want maximum convenience close to the airport with plenty of entertainment on the doorstep, Kuta delivers in abundance. Despite its somewhat overcrowded reputation, it remains one of the most visited destinations in all of Indonesia.
- 🏨 Upscale — The Anvaya Beach Resort Bali (5-Star): A spectacular beachfront resort with 495 rooms, multiple pools, exceptional dining, and a stunning seafront location right in the heart of Kuta’s tourist strip. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Mid-Range — Ramayana Suites & Resort (3-Star): A consistently well-reviewed mid-range option in central Kuta, popular for its spacious rooms, friendly staff, tropical pool, and excellent location close to the beach. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Budget — Pepitu Dormitory by Sandat (Hostel): A clean, sociable hostel in Kuta conveniently close to the beach, popular night-life areas, and Waterbom Bali, with great facilities for budget travellers. Book on Booking.com
🛖 Canggu
Canggu has rapidly evolved from a quiet surfing village into Bali’s coolest, most creative neighbourhood, drawing a cosmopolitan crowd of digital nomads, surfers, yogis, and food lovers from around the world. Set north of Seminyak along the coast, it retains traces of its rural roots — pockets of verdant rice paddies still weave between the trendy cafés, co-working spaces, and boutique guesthouses — but the pace and energy have shifted considerably. The café scene here is outstanding, with dozens of Instagram-worthy spots serving exceptional coffee and plant-based food. Batu Bolong Beach and Echo Beach offer solid surf breaks suited to all levels, and the sunset views from these black-sand shores are consistently magnificent. Canggu’s nightlife has grown significantly, with venues such as Finns Beach Club providing world-class entertainment, but it still feels more relaxed and authentic than the more tourist-heavy areas to the south. It is Bali’s most talked-about neighbourhood, and for good reason.
- 🏨 Upscale — Desa Hay Canggu (5-Star): A highly-rated adults-only boutique retreat set in lush tropical gardens, beloved by couples and frequent guests for its design-led rooms, superb pool, and attentive service. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Mid-Range — Holiday Inn Resort Bali Canggu by IHG (4-Star): A well-appointed beachside resort just minutes from Batu Bolong Beach with a rooftop pool, excellent ocean views, and reliable IHG-quality facilities and service. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Budget — Lushy Hostel Canggu (Hostel): A popular, well-reviewed hostel with a pool, bar, co-working facilities, BBQ nights, and regular yoga sessions, perfectly positioned for the Canggu surf and café lifestyle. Book on Booking.com
🌅 Nusa Dua
Nusa Dua is Bali’s premier resort enclave, a purpose-built tourism zone on the southern Bukit Peninsula characterised by wide, clean pavements, immaculate landscaping, and some of the most impressive large-scale luxury resorts in Asia. Unlike the commercial hustle of Kuta or the hipster energy of Canggu, Nusa Dua is a calmer, more controlled environment — ideal for families, honeymooners, and travellers seeking a genuinely relaxing beach holiday without the noise and chaos found elsewhere. The protected lagoon beach is calm, safe for swimming, and lined with the poolside terraces of world-class hotels. The Bali Collection shopping mall offers upmarket retail and dining options, and the area hosts significant international events, including the G20 summit in 2022. Getting around beyond the resort compound typically requires a taxi or private driver, but for those who are happy to stay within this polished paradise, Nusa Dua offers an unparalleled level of comfort and service.
- 🏨 Upscale — Grand Hyatt Bali (5-Star): An iconic Nusa Dua landmark with five outdoor pools, a private beach, eight dining options, and a full-service spa, consistently rated as one of Bali’s finest family and luxury resorts. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Mid-Range — Bali Nusa Dua Hotel (4-Star): A smartly designed hotel within the exclusive resort complex with good facilities, contemporary Balinese interiors, easy beach access, and competitive rates for the area. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Budget — Amnaya Resort Nusa Dua (3-Star): A well-reviewed, affordable option just outside the main resort zone offering comfortable rooms, a pleasant pool, and good value for travellers who want to explore the Nusa Dua area without the five-star price tag. Book on Booking.com
🌊 Uluwatu
Uluwatu is Bali’s dramatic southern frontier — a rugged clifftop world of towering limestone karst, crashing surf, and some of the most breathtaking ocean views on the island. Located at the tip of the Bukit Peninsula, it has long been revered as one of the world’s top surfing destinations, with legendary breaks such as Uluwatu, Padang Padang, and Bingin drawing experienced surfers from every corner of the globe. The ancient Hindu sea temple of Pura Luhur Uluwatu, perched on the cliff edge 70 metres above the Indian Ocean, is one of Bali’s most sacred and spectacular landmarks, and the nightly kecak fire dance performed at sunset here is absolutely unmissable. Beyond surfing and temples, Uluwatu has increasingly attracted an upscale crowd with the arrival of extraordinary clifftop resorts and boutique properties, as well as a thriving restaurant and beach club scene at venues like Single Fin. It is a wilder, more awe-inspiring Bali — less polished than the resorts but far more extraordinary.
- 🏨 Upscale — Alila Villas Uluwatu (5-Star): A magnificent all-pool villa resort dramatically perched on limestone cliffs above the Indian Ocean, with breathtaking infinity pool views, butler service, and award-winning design by WOHA Architects. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Mid-Range — Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort (4-Star): A beautifully situated clifftop resort with ocean-view rooms featuring private hot tubs, excellent dining including Japanese teppanyaki, and a shuttle to the surf at Padang Beach. Book on Booking.com
- 🏨 Budget — Home-Bience Hostel Uluwatu (Hostel): A well-located, affordable hostel in Uluwatu with a pool, garden, and terrace — a great base for exploring the surf beaches and temple, with good reviews for friendliness and cleanliness. Book on Booking.com
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