Southwest Mauritius trades the polished resort beaches of the north for volcanic cliffs, seven-hued earths, cascading waterfalls and the dense native forest of Black River Gorges National Park — the island's most scenically dramatic and ecologically significant corner.
Mauritius: Pamplemousses – Africa’s Oldest Botanic Garden
Pamplemousses: Giant Lilies, Grumpy Tortoises and a King-Size Memorial in Mauritius
I’ll be honest, we turned up at the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden in Pamplemousses, in the north of Mauritius, rather later in the day than I’d planned, which is fairly typical of me. By the time we got through the gate it was already heading towards late afternoon, so there was none of this leisurely strolling about with a guidebook and a flask of tea — it was straight in and crack on, or we’d be seeing the place by torchlight.
I should probably mention, before I go any further, that this garden has form. It started life back in 1735 when a French governor called Mahé de La Bourdonnais bought a place called Château Mon Plaisir and knocked up a vegetable patch to keep the ships passing through Port Louis supplied with fresh veg. Sensible enough. But it was a chap named Pierre Poivre who really got the thing going from about 1767 onwards. Poivre — and yes, that really does mean “pepper” in French, which I like to think somebody somewhere found terribly funny at the time — was the French intendant of the island, and his big idea was to smuggle nutmeg and clove seedlings out from under the noses of the Dutch, who at that point had the Spice Islands locked up tighter than a bank vault. He planted them here to break the monopoly, and in doing so pretty much invented the garden as a serious botanical concern rather than a glorified allotment. His successor, Jean-Nicolas Céré, ploughed his own money into the place for years afterwards, which strikes me as either terrific dedication or terrible financial planning, possibly both.
Anyway. None of that was on my mind when we arrived — I was mainly thinking about how hot it was and whether I’d remembered the sun cream, which I hadn’t.
🪷 Lily Pads the Size of Coffee Tables
The first thing we stumbled across was a pond absolutely stuffed with giant lotus plants, some of them taller than I am, which admittedly isn’t saying a huge amount, but still — they were properly enormous, and in full flower too. I’ve seen a fair few lotus ponds in my time, usually in temple grounds looking terribly serene and symbolic, but I’d never seen them growing to quite that height. We just stood there a while, going “ooh” and “ah” like a couple of pensioners at a fireworks display, which I suppose is more or less what we are.
A bit further along, though, came the bit that put a dampener on things rather: pens holding giant tortoises and deer. I can see the logic — presumably if you let them roam free they’d demolish several centuries’ worth of careful horticulture in an afternoon — but it was a bit sad to see such large, slow, dignified creatures shuffling about in what amounted to a glorified pen. It didn’t add a thing to the visit, if I’m honest, and I’d have been just as happy, probably happier, without it. A botanical garden ought to be about the plants, not a part-time zoo bolted on the side.
🌿 The Water Lily Pond, Properly Showing Off
Right, moving swiftly on, because this next bit is the reason anybody actually comes here. The long, formal pond filled with giant water lilies — Victoria amazonica, if you want the posh name, native to the Amazon basin and about as far from Mauritius as it’s possible to get and still be on the same planet, yet they’ve clearly taken to the place rather well — is the undoubted highlight of the whole garden. I’m a soppy old fool for a good water lily at the best of times, and in the late afternoon sun these were doing their level best to show off: enormous flat pads the size of coffee tables, floating there looking impossibly pleased with themselves.
What I particularly liked, and this is the kind of thing that gives away my age, I suspect, were the older pads that had started to decay round the edges. You could see right through to the fibrous ribbed structure underneath, like looking at the skeleton of something that used to be rather glamorous. There’s something about watching a plant fall gracefully to bits that I find far more interesting than the perfect specimens, though I appreciate that’s probably not a widely held view at dinner parties.
🏛️ The Château That Wasn’t Open
From the lily pond we wandered on towards the Château de Mon Plaisir, which, I learned afterwards, started out as a small, flat-roofed affair back when La Bourdonnais first turned up, before being knocked down and rebuilt in 1839 as the rather grander, two-storey colonial building that stands there now. It’s a listed building these days, and apparently it was lined up for restoration back in 2017. Lined up, I say, because as far as I could tell it’s still firmly shut to visitors. My guess, for what it’s worth, is that Covid came along and threw the whole scheme into the long grass, as it did to roughly half the plans made anywhere in the world around that time. Typical, really — you wait decades for a restoration, and then a global pandemic turns up and spoils it.
🙏 A Monument Fit for a Prime Minister
Right next to the château, and considerably harder to miss, is a large and genuinely impressive monument to Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, who gave the garden its current name — it was renamed in his honour on the 18th of September 1988, having spent well over two centuries simply being the Royal Botanic Gardens, Pamplemousses before that. Ramgoolam was Mauritius’s first Prime Minister after independence in 1968, and later served as Governor-General, and the island plainly hasn’t forgotten him — he’s generally referred to as the Father of the Nation, and the memorial here doesn’t undersell the point. There’s a freshwater pond crowned with a lotus flower sculpture and an inscription along those very lines: “In beloved memory of the Father of the Nation.” It’s a properly dignified spot, and after the tortoise pens it was rather a relief to find something in the garden that felt like it had been thought through with a bit of care and reverence, rather than just penned in and left to get on with it.
🤔 Reflections
Looking back on it, Pamplemousses is a funny old mixture. You’ve got nearly three hundred years of history wrapped up in one site — French spice smugglers, colonial governors, a Prime Minister’s memorial, and giant water lilies that have travelled rather further than most of the tourists wandering round them — and yet it’s the small, slightly scruffy details that stuck with me most: the decaying lily pads, the shut-up château, the tortoises who looked thoroughly unimpressed with their pen and, frankly, with us. I’d happily go back, if only to see whether anyone’s finally got round to opening that château. I wouldn’t put money on it, mind.
About Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden
The Garden covers an area of 33 Hectares. It is managed by a Trust known as the SSR Botanic Garden Trust enacted in May 1999. The main objectives of the SSR Botanic Garden Trust are conservation, education, recreation, culture and history.
The Garden is one of the oldest Botanic Garden in the southern hemisphere.
The Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden dates back to the French period. In 1736, the French governor, Mahé de Labourdonnais, chose to set up his domain around the present Main Gate at Pamplemousses. In 1767 the French Intendent, Pierre Poivre introduced vegetables, fruits and flowers from all over the world.
Amongst these plants were some of the most prized species of the time: namely nutmegs (Myristica fragans) and cloves (Syzichium aromaticum) from the Malaccas. These species are still present in the Spice Corner of the Garden.
After Poivre’s departure, the Garden was administered by Nicolas Céré (1775 – 1810). He traced the main avenues and had several ponds built, notably the Giant Water Lily Pond, now filled with spectacular Victoria amazonica.
After the French period, the Garden faced difficulties during the first thirty years of British rule over the island.
The Garden was revived with the arrival of James Duncan as Director in 1849. A large collection of palms was introduced including the majestic Royal Palm (Roystonia regia).
The Botanic Garden which was formerly known as the Royal Botanic Gardens, Pamplemousses was renamed on the 18th of September 1988 that is on the 88th Birth Anniversary of Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, the first Prime Minister of Mauritius and later Governor General of Mauritius.
His funerary monument (Samadhi) is found near the Chateau de Mon Plaisir as well as a memorial consisting of a freshwater pond crowned by a lotus flower with the inscription: ‘In beloved Memory of the Father of the Nation’.
Since the year 2000, a Trust under the aegis of the Ministry of Agro-Industry and Food Security runs the Garden.
Planning your visit to Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden
🌿 Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden
📍 Location | Pamplemousses, Mauritius
| 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM | 🌐 Website | ssbg.govmu.org |
|---|---|---|---|
| 📞 Phone | +230 243 9401 | ssbg@govmu.org |
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Visitors | Fee |
|---|---|
| Adults (Non-Residents) | MUR 200 |
| Children (Non-Residents, under 12) | MUR 100 |
| Mauritian Residents | Free |
| Children (Residents, under 12) | Free |
🚗 Getting There
The garden is located in Pamplemousses, about 12 km north of Port Louis. By car, take the M2 motorway north from Port Louis and follow signs for Pamplemousses; the journey takes around 20–25 minutes. Taxis and hire cars are readily available from Port Louis, Grand Baie and most resort areas. Public buses run between Port Louis (Immigration Square bus station) and Pamplemousses regularly; ask the driver for the Jardin Botanique stop. From Grand Baie or the north coast, buses via Triolet connect to Pamplemousses.
The best time to visit Mauritius
Mauritius sits in the southern Indian Ocean and follows a broadly tropical rhythm, with two main seasons shaped by trade winds, rainfall, and the Indian Ocean’s warmth. The island’s geography adds complexity: the central plateau and windward east coast receive considerably more rainfall than the sheltered west and north. Altitude also plays a role — the interior highlands can be cloudy and cool when the coast is drenched in sunshine.
☀️ November to April — Summer and the Wet Season
Summer in Mauritius runs from roughly November through April. Temperatures on the coast climb into the low-to-mid thirties Celsius, and humidity is at its most pronounced. Rain arrives in heavy, dramatic bursts rather than steady drizzle, and the afternoons frequently clear to brilliant sunshine. The sea reaches its warmest, typically between 26°C and 29°C, making snorkelling and diving particularly rewarding.
December, January, and February form the heart of this period and carry the greatest risk of tropical cyclones. Mauritius sits within the South-West Indian Ocean cyclone belt, and while direct hits are relatively rare, the island can experience heavy rains, strong winds, and rough seas during this window. Cyclone alerts can disrupt flights and close beaches at short notice.
Despite these caveats, this period draws many visitors, particularly Europeans escaping winter. Hotels on the west and north coasts — which sit in the rain shadow of the central mountains — remain relatively sunny even when the east is wet. The lush vegetation at its greenest, waterfalls running full, and warm evening temperatures make for a vivid atmosphere.
December and early January are peak festive season, with prices at their highest and availability tightest. If you are travelling over Christmas or New Year, booking well in advance is essential.
What to pack: Lightweight, moisture-wicking clothing in breathable fabrics; a quality compact umbrella or a packable waterproof jacket; sandals as well as closed shoes for evenings out; high-factor suncream (SPF 50+); insect repellent; a lightweight scarf for air-conditioned restaurants and shopping centres.
🍂 May to October — Winter and the Dry Season
The austral winter, from May to October, is widely regarded as the best time to visit Mauritius in terms of comfort. Trade winds from the south-east keep humidity low and temperatures pleasant — typically between 17°C and 25°C on the coast, with cooler nights in the highlands. The skies are frequently clear and blue, rainfall is minimal, and the sea, though slightly cooler than in summer at around 22°C to 24°C, remains inviting for swimming.
July and August are the coolest months and can feel surprisingly fresh in the evenings, particularly at altitude or on exposed headlands. A light layer is genuinely useful after sunset. The reduced humidity and cooler air make hiking, cycling, and exploring the interior far more comfortable than during summer.
The south and east coasts receive the strongest trade winds during this period, which can create choppy conditions for swimming and water sports in those areas. The west and north coasts remain calmer and more sheltered. Surfers, however, seek out the east and south coasts during winter for consistent swells.
Visibility underwater is excellent between May and September, and whale watching is possible from around June onwards when humpback whales pass through Mauritian waters.
June to August is the busiest period for European and South African visitors — the island’s two largest visitor markets outside the festive season — so prices are elevated compared to shoulder months, but generally lower than December and January.
What to pack: Lightweight daywear; a mid-layer fleece or smart casual knit for evenings and cooler highland days; comfortable walking shoes or trainers; a long-sleeved shirt for sun protection on the water; suncream; a compact day bag for hikes or market visits.
🌸 May and October–November — Shoulder Months
May and the October–November transition represent perhaps the shrewdest time to visit for those who want good conditions without peak-season pricing. May bridges the wet and dry seasons elegantly: most of the summer humidity has dissipated but the landscape retains its lushness, and sea temperatures are still warm. October and November mark the return of warmth after winter, before the cyclone risk and full summer humidity arrive.
Crowds are thinner, rates are more negotiable, and the island’s hospitality industry tends to be at its most attentive without the pressures of full occupancy. The risk in November is that the season can edge earlier in some years, bringing heavier rain and the odd cyclone depression from mid-November onwards.
What to pack: A versatile wardrobe that layers easily — lightweight trousers or a dress plus a light jacket covers most eventualities; sandals and comfortable closed shoes; suncream; swimming gear.
🌊 Diving and Snorkelling
Water visibility and marine life vary through the year. The period October to December offers the warmest sea temperatures and calmer waters on both coasts before the cyclone season intensifies. April and May, as the wet season eases, also offer very good conditions. The south-east trade winds from June to August can stir up sediment on the east coast but leave the west coast clear.
Whale sharks are occasionally spotted off the west coast between October and March. Humpback whales pass through from around June to September. Sea turtles nest on some beaches between October and February.
🏄 Kite Surfing and Water Sports
Le Morne on the south-west peninsula and Anse la Raie in the north are the main kite surfing spots. The strongest, most consistent trade winds for kite surfing run from May to October. Surfing the reef breaks on the east and south coasts is best from around May to September, when the swell arrives with the trade winds. Flat-water watersports — paddleboarding, kayaking, glass-bottom boats — are most enjoyable from May to September on the sheltered west and north coasts
🌡️ Overall Best Time to Visit
For most visitors, May to October offers the most reliably comfortable conditions in Mauritius: low humidity, sunshine, clear skies, and warm enough seas for swimming and snorkelling. Within that window, June and July strike the ideal balance of dry weather, excellent visibility for diving, whale watching opportunities, and manageable prices — without the summer cyclone risk or the humidity that can make outdoor activity tiring. Families with school-age children often find the Easter and October half-term shoulders equally rewarding: warm, less crowded, and frequently kinder on the budget than the peak winter and festive seasons. If a warm sea and a vivid, lush island are the priority and cyclone risk is accepted, December and January remain genuinely beautiful — simply book early, watch the weather alerts, and choose the west or north coast.
Where to stay
Mon Choisy Beach Resort
We stopped in the Mon Choisy which is on the northeast coast of Mauritius. This is a lovely area of the island with great beaches and supposedly the best weather.
The resort was outside the main areas of the town and right on the edge of the large public beach at Mon Choisy. The resort was right on the water, with a rocky beach. It was a perfect place for watching the sun go down and catch the sunset.
We wanted to self-cater, or at least have the option to, so this resort was perfect as the rooms had a small kitchenette which was reasonably well equipped. The rooms were very comfortable, but most of them do not have much of a view.
The pool area was perfect for sunbathing and cooling off, as well as being a perfect spot for seeing sunsets.
Hôtel 20 Degrés Sud
This 5-star hotel is also located on the northeast coast of the island near Grand Baie.
The first boutique hotel in Mauritius, the 20 Degrés Sud offers you the luxury and excellence of a 5-star hotel in an establishment with the dimensions of a charming hotel.
No ostentatious luxury but much more: elegance and refinement. The delicacy in taste, spirit and feelings that will truly give you the feeling of being in a world apart.
Nestled in a pretty coconut grove at the water’s edge, the 20 Degrés Sud enjoys a privileged location, far from all the hustle and bustle, but only a few minutes from the entertainment of Grand Bay. Its location in the heart of a very quiet residential area served by a charming coastal road gives it a peaceful and relaxing side.
Le Peninsula Bay Beach Resort & Spa
This 3-star hotel is located on the southwest side of Mauritius, closer to the International Airport.
Located in Blue Bay, a 2-minute walk from Blue Bay Beach, Le Peninsula Bay Beach Resort & Spa has accommodations with an outdoor swimming pool, free private parking, a fitness center and a garden. Among the facilities of this property are a restaurant, a shared lounge and a 24-hour front desk, along with free WiFi throughout the property. The property provides karaoke and a tour desk.
The hotel will provide guests with air-conditioned rooms offering a desk, an electric tea pot, a fridge, a safety deposit box, a flat-screen TV and a private bathroom with a shower. At Le Peninsula Bay Beach Resort & Spa all rooms include bed linen and towels.
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