Ethiopia: Lalibela – Rock Hewn Churches

Lalibela: Churches Carved Into the Earth

The original plan had been to take a straightforward, direct flight from Gondar to Lalibela, but the airline had recently cancelled this route altogether. Instead, we had to take a flight back south to Addis Ababa before connecting onto another flight heading north again to Lalibela. It was not the most efficient itinerary, but there was no other option. The real complication was the connection time. There was only about forty-five minutes between the scheduled arrival from Gondar and the departure for Lalibela. On paper, it looked just about possible, especially since we were travelling light with only hand luggage, but there was no room for delays.

Unsurprisingly, the flight out of Gondar left behind schedule. Ethiopian domestic flights have a reputation for tardiness, so this was not a shock. The delay meant we arrived at Addis just as our Lalibela flight was technically meant to be leaving. At that moment, it felt like the journey might have ended there. Yet, delays are also common on departure, and fortune was with us. The Lalibela flight had not left. Even so, the race was not over. We still had to wait for the shuttle bus to ferry passengers across the runway to the domestic terminal. When the bus finally pulled up, we made a dash through the terminal, which, although small by international standards, still demanded we clear security twice. By the time we reached the gate, boarding was almost over. We slipped in as the final passengers to climb aboard, Karen even offering apologies as we passed down the aisle. No one seemed particularly upset by the late arrivals—it was simply part of the rhythm of air travel in Ethiopia.

The flight itself was short, barely long enough to settle in, and soon we were touching down on the small airstrip at Lalibela. Waiting outside was our driver, ready to take us straight into town and begin our exploration of the rock-hewn churches.

⛪ Introduction to Lalibela’s Churches

The churches of Lalibela are among the most extraordinary architectural and spiritual sites anywhere in the world. Hewn directly from solid volcanic rock in the 12th and 13th centuries, they were created during the reign of King Lalibela, who sought to establish a “New Jerusalem” in Ethiopia for Christian pilgrims. In total, eleven monumental structures were carved—each one formed from a single massive block of stone, shaped both inside and out. Cross-shaped windows, carved doorways, and carefully chiselled passageways give the impression of grand buildings, yet every wall, floor, and ceiling remains connected to the bedrock.

The site is not simply an archaeological relic. The churches remain active places of worship, central to the Ethiopian Orthodox faith, drawing pilgrims from across the country who arrive barefoot, wrapped in white shawls, and carrying their faith with quiet devotion. Recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the Lalibela churches combine religious importance, historical depth, and engineering wonder in equal measure.

The site is divided into two main clusters—the Northern and the Southern Groups. On our first day, we concentrated on the Northern Group, which holds some of the most famous and impressive monuments.