Lalibela in northern Ethiopia is home to eleven extraordinary rock-hewn churches carved from solid volcanic stone in the 12th century that continue to serve as living places of worship and pilgrimage for the Ethiopian Orthodox Christian community.
Ethiopia: Abijatta-Shalla National Park
After leaving our resort, we soon arrived at the entrance to Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park, a protected area named after its two great lakes, Lake Abijata and Lake Shalla. The park was first established with the purpose of safeguarding the remarkable variety of birdlife and the unusual landscapes that define this region of Ethiopia’s Rift Valley. From the moment we approached, the scenery began to change—flat farmland gave way to stretches of open savannah, dotted with the occasional acacia tree, while volcanic hills rose up in the distance. Even at a glance, the area seemed to hold a sense of quiet, natural drama, shaped by both time and geology.
At the entrance stood the small ranger station, which serves as the starting point for most visits. Here, we stopped to pick up a ranger who would accompany us during the drive. Their knowledge of the park and its wildlife is invaluable, and it is standard practice to have one on board, both for guidance and for the careful protection of the area. Close to the station, we noticed a few ostriches calmly moving about. They appeared almost tame in their behaviour, and there were even a handful of small, fluffy chicks following behind the adults. Seeing them so close set the tone for what was to come, reminding us that the park is alive with wildlife, even if not always in the most obvious ways.
🦓 Wildlife in the Park
With our ranger seated beside us, we set off into the heart of the park. The drive led us over gentle tracks that wound between stretches of savannah grassland and the dark shapes of old volcanic outcrops. Wildlife sightings here can vary greatly depending on the season and the time of day. On this occasion, the mammal sightings were modest. We caught sight of a Grant’s gazelle, graceful as it bounded away into the distance, and later a warthog scuttled across the track with its tail sticking straight up in the air, a comical sight in an otherwise calm landscape. Beyond these few encounters, the mammals remained scarce during our visit.
But this park is not truly famous for large mammals. Its reputation rests on the remarkable birdlife it supports. Over 300 species have been recorded, and it is particularly known for waterbirds. The lakes, with their contrasting environments, provide feeding and nesting grounds for thousands of flamingos, pelicans, and numerous other species. For birdwatchers, this is one of the highlights of Ethiopia—a place where entire flocks move in unison across the shallows or take off in great sweeping arcs across the horizon. Even for those with little interest in birding, the sight of pink flamingos stretching across a shimmering lake remains unforgettable.
🏞️ People and Conservation Challenges
Like many of Ethiopia’s national parks, Abijata-Shalla does not exist in complete isolation. Local communities live in and around its boundaries, sometimes relying on the land for grazing livestock or gathering resources. This coexistence between people and wildlife presents ongoing challenges. While the park was set up to protect biodiversity, the reality is that human needs are closely tied to the landscape, and finding a balance has been difficult. It is a reminder that conservation is rarely a simple matter of setting land aside—here, it must take into account the livelihoods of those who have lived beside these lakes for generations.
🌊 The Contrasts of Lake Abijata and Lake Shalla
Our route eventually led us to a viewpoint overlooking the two lakes, set close to each other but strikingly different in character.
Lake Abijata is shallow, with waters rich in minerals and high in salt content. These conditions encourage the growth of algae, which in turn provide food for large numbers of waterbirds, particularly flamingos. The sight of the pale lake rimmed in pink is a classic image of this part of Ethiopia. Yet despite its beauty, Lake Abijata has been under serious environmental pressure. Water has been diverted to support nearby agriculture and industrial activity such as soda ash extraction. Over time, the lake has shrunk in size, and with it the habitats for birds have diminished. This has not only affected wildlife but also local communities who rely on the lake in different ways. It is both an inspiring and sobering sight—a reminder of how fragile natural environments can be when placed under too much strain.
Lake Shalla, just to the south, could hardly be more different. It is the deepest lake in Ethiopia, plunging to more than 260 metres. The water here is fresh and dark, bordered by steep volcanic cliffs that give it an imposing character. Unlike Abijata, Shalla is not a major gathering place for flamingos, but its small islands provide nesting grounds for some bird species, and the setting itself is striking. The contrast between the two lakes—one shallow and shrinking, the other deep and mysterious—makes this national park quite unlike any other.
🦩 Down to the Shores of Lake Shalla
From the viewpoint, we descended towards the shores of Lake Shalla. Here, the experience was more intimate. A small flock of flamingos waded near one of the beaches, their long legs and curved beaks searching for food in the shallows. The setting was calm, the still water reflecting the cliffs and sky, and it gave the impression of a place almost untouched.
The area is also known for its hot springs, heated by underground volcanic activity. They bubble up around the lakeside, and local people make use of them, often for washing clothes. The smell of sulphur hangs faintly in the air, and in some places the water boils furiously, showing just how much power is still locked beneath the surface of the earth. Standing beside a pool of steaming, bubbling water only metres from the cool lake was an odd but fascinating reminder of the geological forces shaping this region.
✈️ Moving On
Eventually, our visit drew to a close. After leaving the park, we rejoined our driver and made our way back towards the airport. From there, a short domestic flight carried us to Addis Ababa, ending our time at the twin lakes of Abijata and Shalla.
🌍 Final Thoughts
Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park is a place of striking contrasts—between its two lakes, between birds and mammals, between conservation efforts and the pressures of daily human life. What stands out most is not only the wildlife but also the sense of balance the park is trying to maintain. While we did not see large numbers of mammals, the birdlife alone made the visit memorable, and the scenery itself carried a quiet, timeless atmosphere. This is not a park that overwhelms with spectacle at every turn, but one that leaves a lasting impression through its subtle beauty, its challenges, and its sense of place within Ethiopia’s Rift Valley.
Planning your visit to Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park
📍 Location
Region: Oromia, Ethiopia
Distance: Approximately 200 km (about 3–4 hours by car) south of Addis Ababa, to the east of the Batu–Shashamane highway Wikipedia+15Wikipedia+15ResearchGate+15Visitoromia+4Wikipedia+4National Parks Worldwide+4.
The park covers around 887 km², encompassing two alkaline lakes—Abijatta and Shalla—separated by about 3 km of hilly land, with elevations ranging between 1,540 and 2,075 m (Mount Fike being the highest point between the lakes) Wikipedia+9Wikipedia+9National Parks Worldwide+9.
🚗 How to Get There
By Car: From Addis Ababa, you can drive via the Addis–Adama Expressway through Modjo or via Butajira. The journey takes about 3 to 3¾ hours, covering between 210 km and 228 km Wikivoyage.
Inside the Park: To navigate inside the park—especially to access remote areas or crater lakes like Chitu—you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle SafariBookings.com+1.
Official Contact Info
According to the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (EWCA), which manages the park:
Website: The official info is hosted on the EWCA site; specific page: Abijata Shalla Lakes National Park National Parks Assn+15Ethiopian Wildlife Authority+15Wikipedia+15.
Email:
info@ewca.gov.etEthiopian Wildlife Authority.Telephone:
+251 46 899 70Ethiopian Wildlife Authority.
⏰ Opening Hours
There is no publicly listed official opening or closing schedule on the EWCA site or other sources. It’s common for Ethiopian national parks to be open daily during daylight hours, but I recommend contacting them directly using the provided telephone or email to confirm.
💲 Entry Fees
Wikivoyage lists entry fees (as of 2015) as follows:
Ethiopians: 20 birr
Ethiopian children (<12) & students: 10 birr
Residents (non-visitor/non-resident?): 50 birr
Non-resident foreigners: 90 birr
Camping (per person): 10 birr Wikivoyage.
Note: These rates may have changed since 2015. It would be wise to confirm the current fees directly via email or phone.
Summary Overview
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Location | Oromia Region, approx. 200 km south of Addis Ababa |
| How to Get There | 3–4 hr drive from Addis Ababa; use a 4×4 inside the park |
| Website | EWCA’s Abijata Shalla Lakes National Park page |
info@ewca.gov.et | |
| Telephone | +251 46 899 70 |
| Opening Hours | Not specified—likely daylight hours; please contact EWCA to confirm |
| Entry Fees (2015) | Ethiopians: 20 birr; Children/Students: 10 birr; Residents: 50 birr; Foreigners: 90 birr; Camping: 10 birr/person |
Best time to visit Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park
🌸 Visiting in Spring (March – May)
Spring in Ethiopia brings warming temperatures and the start of the rainy season. In Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park, this is when the landscape begins to turn green after the drier months, and the birdlife becomes very active. Migratory species start to arrive, making it an excellent season for birdwatching. However, short rain showers can make some tracks muddy, so driving conditions might be less predictable. The weather is usually warm during the day and cooler in the evenings, so a light jacket is useful.
🌧️ Visiting in Summer (June – August)
This is the main rainy season, when the park receives most of its annual rainfall. The lush vegetation makes the park look strikingly beautiful, but the wet conditions mean that some areas can be harder to access. Wildlife can be more difficult to spot as animals take shelter from the rain and tall grasses provide cover. Still, the lakes look full and vibrant, and birdwatchers may find the atmosphere rewarding. Waterproof clothing and sturdy shoes are essential if visiting at this time.
🍂 Visiting in Autumn (September – November)
Autumn is a transitional season, with the rains easing off and the park becoming more accessible. The scenery remains green, and many animals come out to graze in the open spaces. Bird activity is particularly high, with both resident and migratory species in abundance. The weather is mild, not too hot, and evenings are comfortable. This is one of the best times to visit, especially if you want to avoid heavy rain yet still enjoy the freshness of the landscape.
☀️ Visiting in Winter (December – February)
Winter is the driest period in the park, offering clear skies, warm days, and cooler nights. Wildlife viewing is at its best since animals gather around water sources, and vegetation is less dense, making sightings easier. Birdwatching is at its peak, as thousands of flamingos and other waterbirds gather at the lakes. Roads are dry and easier to travel, making it the most convenient time for visitors. A hat, sunscreen, and light clothing for the day, combined with a sweater for the evenings, are recommended.
🎒 What to Pack
Clothing: Lightweight breathable clothes, but also a jumper or light jacket for evenings.
Footwear: Sturdy walking shoes or boots for rough terrain.
Weather Gear: Raincoat or poncho in the rainy season.
Accessories: Hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen for the dry months.
Extras: Binoculars for birdwatching and a camera to capture the landscapes.
📊 Seasonal Summary
| Season | Weather | Accessibility | Wildlife & Birds | Overall Experience |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (Mar–May) | Warm, light rains | Fair | Active birds, green landscapes | Good |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | Heavy rains | Limited | Lush vegetation, harder wildlife spotting | Moderate |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | Mild, less rain | Good | Excellent birdlife, green scenery | Very Good |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | Dry, clear skies | Excellent | Peak birdwatching, best wildlife sightings | Excellent |
🌍 Overall Best Time to Visit
The overall best time to visit Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park is during the dry season from December to February. The weather is most comfortable, the roads are easier to travel, and both wildlife and birdlife are at their most visible. That said, birdwatchers may also find September to November rewarding, when migratory flocks arrive and the park is still lush from the rains.
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