Ethiopia: Simien Mountains

The plan for today was a road trip to the Simien Mountains, which were around 90 minutes away from Gondar.

This range stretches for approximately 400 kilometres, forming part of the Ethiopian Highlands, which are often referred to as the “Roof of Africa” due to their towering altitude. The Simien Mountains are characterised by rugged terrain, with jagged peaks, deep valleys, and steep cliffs that rise sharply from the surrounding plains. The highest peak in the range is Ras Dashen, which rises to an impressive 4,550 meters (14,928 feet) above sea level, making it the fourth-highest mountain in Africa. This rugged and isolated landscape has made the Simien Mountains a natural fortress and an area of immense biodiversity, earning it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978.

The Simien Mountains are renowned not only for their dramatic landscapes but also for their rich and diverse wildlife. The region is home to several endemic species, including the gelada baboon, a unique primate with distinctive red chest markings. These baboons are a common sight in the highland meadows and rocky outcrops of the mountains. Another iconic resident of the Simien Mountains is the Ethiopian wolf, a rare and endangered species found only in the Ethiopian highlands. The mountains are also home to the Walia ibex, a wild goat that can scale the steep cliffs with ease, and the lammergeier, a large vulture that is often seen soaring over the valleys.

As we travelled from Gondar, we passed by fields that were cultivated and many farmers and their families taking their livestock to the pastures for the day.

Another thing that was evident here were the heavily armed military units at the side of the roads and in trucks. This is a sign that Ethiopia is still a troubled country. Last year militants in Amhara region where we were had got into an armed conflict with the government who tried to disarm the rebels, which did not go down well. Anyway, things appear more settled, at least in the urban areas. Having lived in the US and travelling through Africa we are used to see military and police with weapons – and even farmers. The UK and USA foreign office have ‘Do Not Travel’ notices for Ethiopia – which we of course ignored after some research. I am glad we did!

The further we went along the route the more dramatic the scenery became. The road began to steadily climb. Even in the mountains there were many farms.

The people living in and around the mountains belong to a number of ethnic groups, with the Amhara people being the most prominent. These communities have lived in the region for centuries, cultivating the land, herding livestock, and maintaining traditional lifestyles that are closely tied to the mountains.

We made a stop in a town to pay the fee to enter the National Park, and to pick up a guide and the Park Ranger who would be accompanying us. The Ranger was tiny and looked about 100 years old – and a bit Gollomesque. There was one more stop so he could pick up his rifle – I don’t think this was to protect us from the wildlife as the is nothing particularly dangerous wandering the Simien Mountains. I think this was more to protect against dangers of the humankind!

We drove for another 30 minutes or so until we were deeper into the park, before pulling over. It was nice to have a break from the driving and having a chance to stretch our legs. The trail we were on was through brush land, with grasses and other plants. Our guide did a great job of explaining about the plants we found along the way. Some were medicinal others poisonous – and those such as the acacia and thistles were ones to stay clear of.

The trail led us the edge of precipitous cliffs, that dropped hundreds of metres down into the valley below. The vista in front of us was stunning. In the distance we mountains and in between were deep gorges separated by islands of rocky plateaus with steep cliffs, and giant stone pinnacles. We were blown away the beauty of the landscape before us.

Deep in the valley below us we could just make a small village surrounded by lush green fields. Our Ranger explained (through translation) that there were no roads in and out of the valleys. If you wanted anything from the outside you had to climb your way out, using ropes and long rickety ladders in some sections – and it would take two days. These people live a hard, subsistence lifestyle.

We continued along the trail until we reconnected with the road. The car picked us up and we carried on.