The Hundertwasser Toilets in Kawakawa turn a simple public convenience into a colourful, artistic statement, blending creativity, community spirit, and environmental design.
New Zealand: Northland – Bay of Islands Vintage Railway
🚂 Bay of Islands Vintage Railway
The Bay of Islands Vintage Railway was far more than a novelty attraction and turned out to be one of the most interesting parts of the day. The line had its origins in the push to open up Northland for industry and settlement, when railways were seen as essential infrastructure rather than something optional. The original railway through Kawakawa was built to serve the local coal mines, which were discovered in the area during the nineteenth century. Coal was in high demand at the time, used for steamships, railways, and industry, and Kawakawa became an important inland source despite its small size.
The railway was constructed as part of the wider North Auckland Line, gradually extending northwards as funding and labour allowed. Kawakawa became a key stopping point, linking the mines inland with the port facilities at Opua. Coal trains ran regularly, carrying heavy loads through the town and along the bay. For decades, the railway was central to daily life. It brought jobs, connected communities, and allowed goods and people to move more easily through what was otherwise difficult country. When the coal industry declined and road transport became more dominant, the railway’s importance faded. Passenger services were eventually withdrawn, and freight trains stopped running. The line was formally closed, and much of the track was left unused.
Rather than letting it disappear completely, a group of local volunteers decided to save part of it. They restored a short section of track and rolling stock, gradually bringing the railway back to life as a heritage operation. What made it unusual was that the train still ran straight down the middle of Kawakawa’s main street, just as it had when it was part of the national rail network. Shops and cafés lined either side, and traffic stopped patiently as the train passed through. It felt less like a performance and more like a continuation of how things had once worked.
The current line ran from Kawakawa out into the surrounding countryside, following the original route through farmland, wetlands, and alongside a winding river. Much of the infrastructure dated back to the working railway, including bridges and embankments, which gave the journey a sense of authenticity. The volunteers take pride in keeping things simple and accurate rather than polished. Conversations with the crew made it clear that this was about preserving history as much as offering a ride.
Being invited into the locomotive cab added another layer to the experience. The diesel engine was practical and straightforward, reflecting the later working years of the line rather than its steam-era beginnings. Ray, the driver, spoke easily about the railway’s past and present, clearly knowing every curve and crossing by heart. Dave, his assistant, pointed out features along the route, including wetlands where rare bird species were sometimes seen. Crossing the long wooden trestle bridge stood out as a highlight, not just for its length and curve, but because it was a reminder of the engineering effort that had gone into building railways in difficult terrain.
At the end of the line, the track simply stopped, with the landscape stretching on beyond it. Plans were in place to extend the railway further in the future, restoring more of the original route as funding and permissions allowed. On the return journey, sitting back in the carriage gave a different view, slower and more reflective. By the time we arrived back in Kawakawa, it was clear that the railway was not just a tourist attraction. It was a living link to the town’s working past, kept alive by people who cared enough to do the hard work required to maintain it.
Planning Your Visit to Bay of Islands Vintage Railway
Visiting the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway is a classic New Zealand heritage experience. The railway runs through the small town of Kawakawa in the Bay of Islands region in the Far North of New Zealand’s North Island. The line is historically significant as the first passenger railway in the North Island and is unique for running right down the main street of Kawakawa town.
📍 Location
The vintage railway is based at Kawakawa, a quaint rural town with a strong rail heritage identity. Kawakawa is well known for its quirky attractions, including the Hundertwasser public toilets and nearby natural attractions like the Kawiti Glowworm Caves.
🚙 Getting There
By Road
Kawakawa is easily reached by car from nearby Paihia, Kerikeri and Whangārei. Roads in this part of New Zealand are generally well maintained but can be narrow in places, so allow extra time and drive carefully.
By Public Transport
There are limited public transport options in this rural region, so a rental car or organised tour is often the easiest way to arrive at the station.
Parking
Onsite parking is usually available near Kawakawa Railway Station.
🚉 Getting Around
The heritage station at Kawakawa serves as the main boarding point for the vintage railway. From here you travel on restored steam or diesel trains along the historic track towards Taumarere or beyond, enjoying commentary and the scenic countryside views. The train crosses the long curved wooden bridge near Taumarere, one of the notable sights on the line.
Cycle connections are possible with the Pou Herenga Tai – Twin Coast Cycle Trail, where you can load bikes onto the train for part of the route. Space for bicycles is limited and booking in advance is recommended.
⏱️ Operating Hours and Best Time to Travel
Train services vary by season:
Summer (December – March): Trains generally run seven days a week.
Autumn and Spring: The railway typically runs five days a week (often Friday to Sunday plus selected days).
Winter: Reduced schedule (four days per week).
School and public holidays: Trains run every day throughout the year except Christmas Day.
Typical departure times on operating days include morning and afternoon departures from Kawakawa Station. For example, the autumn schedule has departures around 10:00 am and 2:00 pm, with cycle connection stops shortly afterwards.
The best time to travel is during New Zealand’s summer and shoulder seasons (December to April), when the weather is warmer and daylight hours are longer.
🎟️ Entry Fees and Tickets (Exact Prices)
Current standard fares are approximately:
Adult return: NZ$60
Senior (65+): NZ$50
Child (3–17 years): NZ$25
Toddlers (0–2 years): Free
Family (2 Adults + 2 Children) Cycle Connection: NZ$160 (combines train fare with cycle connection)
Booking online is recommended to secure your preferred departure and to ensure the train runs that day, as services may not operate without sufficient bookings.
Combination Tickets:
Cycle connection fares apply for journeys between Taumarere and Whangae Tunnel or other cycle options. Space on the cycle connection train is limited and subject to booking.
The best time to visit Kawakawa
Kawakawa, located in the Northland region of New Zealand, enjoys a mild, coastal climate throughout the year. Temperatures rarely become extreme, but rainfall can be frequent due to the town’s position near the Bay of Islands. Each season offers something slightly different, from the bright greens of summer to the quiet, misty landscapes of winter.
🌸 Spring (September – November)
Spring in Kawakawa is fresh and full of life. The countryside turns a vivid green, and wildflowers begin to appear along the roadside. Daytime temperatures usually sit between 15°C and 20°C, though showers are still common. It’s a lovely time for walking or cycling along the Twin Coast Cycle Trail, as the air feels crisp but not cold.
There are fewer visitors around in spring, so accommodation is easier to find and generally a little cheaper. It’s also the time when local gardens and reserves, such as those near Kawiti Caves and the Hundertwasser Toilets, look their best with new growth and clear light for photography.
☀️ Summer (December – February)
Summer brings warm, dry days, with average highs between 22°C and 26°C. It’s the busiest season, with many New Zealanders heading north for their holidays. Kawakawa is lively, with plenty of day-trippers heading to nearby Paihia or Russell and stopping here to see the famous Hundertwasser Toilets or catch the vintage railway.
Swimming, kayaking, and boat trips around the Bay of Islands are ideal during this time. However, accommodation prices rise, and attractions can be crowded, especially in late December and January. Sunscreen, hats, and insect repellent are essential, as the UV index is very high and sandflies can be a nuisance near the water.
🍂 Autumn (March – May)
Autumn is often the most pleasant time to visit Kawakawa. The summer crowds thin out, yet the days remain warm, usually between 18°C and 23°C. The sea is still comfortable for swimming, and the light becomes softer, making for good photography.
This season is perfect for exploring on foot or by bike, as the trails are quieter. Local farmers’ markets still run, and there’s a relaxed pace in the town. Rain becomes a bit more frequent by May, but it’s still easy to plan outdoor activities around the showers.
❄️ Winter (June – August)
Winter in Kawakawa is mild but wetter. Daytime temperatures hover around 13°C to 16°C, and rain is common, though heavy downpours are usually short. The atmosphere becomes peaceful, with fewer tourists and quiet streets.
This is the time to explore the cultural side of the region — the Hundertwasser Art Centre in nearby Whangārei, or a ride on the vintage railway if it’s running. Pack a waterproof jacket and warm layers for cool evenings. Accommodation rates are at their lowest, making it a good choice for travellers on a budget.
🎒 What to Pack
Spring/Autumn: Light layers, a waterproof jacket, walking shoes, and a jumper for cooler mornings.
Summer: Lightweight clothing, swimwear, sunscreen, sunhat, sunglasses, insect repellent, and sandals.
Winter: Warm clothing, a raincoat, sturdy shoes, and a small umbrella.
All year: A reusable water bottle, camera, and light backpack for day trips.
📊 Seasonal Summary
| Season | Temperature Range | Rainfall | Crowds | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (Sep–Nov) | 15–20°C | Moderate | Quiet | Blossoms, clear light, pleasant walks |
| Summer (Dec–Feb) | 22–26°C | Low–Moderate | Busy | Beaches, cycling, lively town |
| Autumn (Mar–May) | 18–23°C | Moderate | Moderate | Warm seas, relaxed atmosphere |
| Winter (Jun–Aug) | 13–16°C | High | Very quiet | Peaceful, good value, cultural visits |
🌤️ Overall Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Kawakawa is from late summer to mid-autumn (February to April). The weather is still warm, the sea inviting, and the town less crowded than in the peak holiday period. It’s the perfect balance of comfort, atmosphere, and accessibility — ideal for exploring both Kawakawa’s quirky charm and the wider Bay of Islands.
