New Zealand: Whangerei

Moving day had finally arrived, and we were ready to leave Auckland and head north. After several days in the city, it felt good to be packing the car and turning our attention towards the open road. We made an early start, which immediately made the day feel calmer and more organised than usual. Bags were packed, the car was loaded, and we even managed to leave at the time we said we would, which felt like a minor victory.

Saying goodbye to Suzanne and John took a little time, as they had been excellent hosts. They had made our stay easy and comfortable, with good meals, plenty of conversation, and sensible advice about travelling in Northland. The weather helped as well. Clear skies and mild air always make a journey feel more promising. Getting out of Auckland involved the usual crawl through suburbs and traffic, but once we cleared the city limits, the road opened up and the drive immediately became more enjoyable.

🌄 Driving Through the North Island

Beyond Auckland, the scenery shifted quickly. Rolling hills replaced motorways, and the landscape settled into farmland, patches of native bush, and long views across low ridges. I had deliberately set the route to avoid toll roads, which meant quieter highways and slower progress, but it suited us perfectly. These back roads passed through small settlements where daily life carried on without much fuss.

This part of the North Island has long been shaped by agriculture, forestry, and coastal trade. Large areas were once covered in dense native forest, including kauri, which was heavily logged during early European settlement. While much of that forest is gone, remnants remain, giving the countryside a layered look that reflects its long history of use and change. The drive felt relaxed and unforced, and we were content to let the day unfold at its own pace.

🌊 Whangārei

Whangārei was our first major stop and the main centre of Northland. Although it is the region’s largest town, it still feels modest and practical rather than busy or showy. Its early development was closely tied to its harbour, which made it a natural point for trade and industry. European traders arrived early, and the town grew steadily as timber milling, kauri gum digging, and farming expanded across the region.

The name Whangārei comes from Māori and is often translated as “harbour of whales,” a reminder of the area’s close relationship with the sea. Māori communities lived here long before European arrival, using the harbour and surrounding land for fishing, cultivation, and travel. Today, Whangārei functions as a service hub for Northland and a base for exploring the surrounding coast, rivers, and bush. It feels settled and practical, with an ease that reflects its role as a working regional town rather than a tourist showpiece.

💧 Whangārei Falls

On the suggestion of Karen’s friend Margaret, we headed out to Whangārei Falls before lunch. The falls are located just a short drive from the town centre, yet they feel surprisingly removed from urban life. The Whangārei Falls Reserve protects the surrounding area, which has long been valued both for its natural beauty and its practical importance as a freshwater source.

The falls themselves are formed by the Hātea River as it drops over a basalt cliff into a deep pool below. This basalt is volcanic in origin and gives the falls their distinctive shape and dark colouring. Long before the area was formally protected, local Māori used the river for food gathering, transport, and as a meeting place. The surrounding land supported fishing, eeling, and cultivation, and the falls would have been a familiar landmark in everyday life.

We began our walk at the top of the falls, crossing a wooden footbridge that spanned the river just before the drop. The bridge was solid enough but completely open at the sides, which made looking down an experience best taken at a steady pace. From there, a well-formed path led down through native bush into the gorge. As we descended, the sound of the water grew louder, echoing off the rock walls and filling the air.

At the bottom, the full scale of the falls became clear. Water poured over the cliff face into the pool below, sending up a fine spray that cooled the air. The vegetation around the pool was thick and green, framing the water and softening the rock. A second bridge crossed the river below the falls, offering a wide view back towards the cliff and the cascading water. It was an easy walk, but one that felt carefully designed to let you experience the falls from several angles. We lingered longer than expected, simply watching the water and enjoying the quiet.