Essaouira is a wind-sculpted Atlantic port town on Morocco's south-west coast, celebrated for its UNESCO-listed medina, Gnawa musical heritage, world-class kitesurfing conditions, and a bohemian atmosphere that has drawn artists and free spirits for decades.
Morocco: – UNESCO: Rabat
🏛️ Hassan Tower, Rabat
Rabat, Morocco’s capital city, came as something of a pleasant surprise after Casablanca. The two cities could hardly be more different in character. Where Casablanca is dense, commercial, energetic and occasionally overwhelming, Rabat has the measured, slightly self-important air of a place that knows it is the seat of government and has dressed accordingly. Wide, tree-lined boulevards. Government ministries in pale stone. Squares with actual space in them. It felt orderly and calm, with a pace of life that suggested people here were perhaps slightly less likely to step in front of your car without looking.
Rabat was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, under the rather grand title of “Rabat, Modern Capital and Historic City: a Shared Heritage.” The inscription covers everything from twelfth-century Almohad remains to the ambitious French Protectorate town planning of the early twentieth century — the idea being that the city represents an unusually complete and well-preserved dialogue between Arab-Islamic tradition and European modernism. It is, in short, a city that has managed to absorb several centuries of competing influences without losing the thread of what it is. Which is more than can be said for most places.
Our first stop was the Hassan Tower, which is the defining landmark of the city and the sort of thing that appears on every postcard, guidebook cover and tourist leaflet within a fifty-mile radius. Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour — a ruler of the Almohad dynasty whose confidence in his own ambitions was clearly not held in check by anything as tiresome as practical constraint — commissioned what was intended to be the largest mosque in the world. The minaret was to be the centrepiece: a vast structure that would dwarf everything around it and announce the greatness of the Almohad caliphate to anyone within sight of it. Construction began in the late twelfth century and proceeded with considerable energy until the Sultan died, at which point the whole project simply stopped. The mosque was never finished. The minaret reached 44 metres — substantial, certainly, but well short of what had been planned — and there it has remained ever since.
What survived the centuries, along with the tower itself, was the vast esplanade intended to be the floor of the prayer hall. It is now populated by the stumps of several hundred stone columns — the bases that would have supported the roof — arranged in neat rows across a large open space. Walking among them is a quietly eerie experience. They come up to roughly chest height, pale and weathered, stretching away in every direction like some enormous, unfinished thought. The sky was open above us, grey and bright at the same time, and the whole site had a still, contemplative quality that you do not often find in places with this much history attached to them. It is one of those places where the absence of the thing that was supposed to be there is somehow more powerful than the thing itself would have been.
🌿 The Kasbah of the Udayas, Rabat
From the Hassan Tower, we made our way to the Kasbah of the Udayas, which sits on a rocky promontory at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River, overlooking both the river and the Atlantic. It is one of the oldest parts of Rabat, with origins going back to that same Almohad period — it was, in fact, the very first nucleus of the city, a military stronghold built to control the river crossing and the coast. Over the following centuries it served variously as a fortress, an administrative centre, and a residential quarter. In the seventeenth century it became home to Moorish families expelled from Spain during the Reconquista, who brought their architectural traditions with them and left a very visible mark on the place.
The main entrance gate is an impressive piece of Almohad stonework — carved geometric decoration framing an arched doorway of considerable elegance — and stepping through it felt immediately like entering a different world. The streets narrowed to the width of a comfortable corridor. The noise of the city fell away. Whitewashed walls trimmed in that very particular shade of blue that Morocco does better than anywhere else lined the lanes on either side. Flowers grew out of cracks in the walls. Cats occupied doorsteps with the proprietorial confidence that Moroccan cats seem to develop from an early age. Somewhere overhead, seagulls made their feelings known.
The lanes twisted and turned in the way that old medinas always do, as if the original town planners had been working from a particularly abstract brief. We wandered through without any particular agenda, which is really the only sensible way to approach a place like this, and eventually emerged at a viewpoint overlooking the mouth of the river. From here we could see across to Salé on the far bank, the Atlantic stretching away beyond it, and a handful of small boats moving slowly on the water below. It was peaceful in a way that felt genuinely earned rather than curated.
Leah led us through the Andalusian Gardens, which occupy a sheltered courtyard within the Kasbah. The gardens were designed in the early twentieth century by Maurice Tranchant de Lunel, the first Inspector of Historical Monuments under the French Protectorate, and sit very comfortably within the older structures around them — fruit trees, tiled fountains, shaded benches, the quiet sound of water. They take their name and spirit from the Andalusian exiles who reshaped this part of the city, and there is something rather affecting about a garden that carries that particular memory.
After the gardens, we made our way down to the riverfront and stopped at a small café with tables looking out over the water. Lunch was a veggie pizza and a coffee each — nothing remarkable, perfectly adequate, and honestly rather welcome. The view across the river did a lot of the heavy lifting on the ambience front. We sat for a while, rested our feet, and then reluctantly got back into the car for the long drive north.
💭 Reflections
The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca was, without question, the highlight of the day. It is one of those places that justifies the journey entirely on its own. The scale, the craftsmanship, the setting on the water — all of it was genuinely impressive, and the chance to go inside made it more memorable still. If you are in Casablanca for any length of time and you do not visit, you have made a mistake.
Rabat was a pleasant surprise. It is not a city that tends to appear high on lists of Moroccan must-sees, which seems slightly unfair. The Hassan Tower is one of the more quietly affecting historical sites in the country — not dramatic in the way that a great intact monument is dramatic, but thought-provoking in a way that stays with you. And the Kasbah of the Udayas is the kind of place you wander into for twenty minutes and emerge from an hour later wondering where the time went.
The UNESCO inscription here is well deserved. Rabat has managed something that many cities have failed to do — it has absorbed layer upon layer of history, from Almohad fortifications to French boulevard planning, and somehow remained coherent. It deserves more credit than it usually gets from travellers rushing south towards Marrakech.
Planning your visit to Casablanca and Rabat
📍 Location
Casablanca is Morocco’s largest city and economic capital, situated on the Atlantic coast of western Morocco. It is a bustling, modern metropolis that blends contemporary urban life with traditional Moroccan culture.
Rabat lies approximately 90 kilometres north-east of Casablanca and serves as Morocco’s political capital and seat of government. It sits at the mouth of the Bou Regreg river, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean, and has a more relaxed, refined character than Casablanca.
🚗 Getting There
By Car
The two cities are connected by the A3 motorway (also signed as the A1 in parts), a well-maintained toll road that makes the journey straightforward. The drive takes around one hour under normal traffic conditions, though the approach into Casablanca can be congested during peak hours. Toll booths operate along the route, so it is worth keeping Moroccan dirhams to hand. Petrol stations are plentiful along the motorway corridor.
If you are driving from further afield within Morocco, the road network connecting major cities is generally of a good standard. From Marrakech, Casablanca is roughly a 2.5-hour drive via the A7 motorway. From Tangier in the north, Rabat can be reached in approximately two hours via the A1.
Parking in central Casablanca can be challenging. Guarded car parks and roadside parking attendants (known as gardiens) are common. It is customary to tip the gardien a few dirhams when you collect your vehicle. Rabat’s city centre is more manageable, though parking near the medina and government quarter requires patience.
🚌 Getting Around
Casablanca
Casablanca has a modern tram network (tramway) with two lines that cover a significant portion of the city, including the city centre, the Maarif district, and outlying neighbourhoods. Trams are affordable, air-conditioned, and a comfortable way to move around without the stress of driving in city traffic.
Petits taxis — small, metered taxis typically in red — operate within the city limits and are widely available. Always ensure the driver uses the meter, or agree a fare before setting off. Grand taxis cover longer distances and typically run fixed routes between major points.
Ride-hailing apps such as Careem are also widely used and provide a convenient alternative, with fares agreed in advance.
Rabat
Rabat similarly operates a tramway system, which connects the city centre, the Hassan district, and the Salé side of the river via the Bou Regreg bridge. It is an efficient and inexpensive way to navigate.
Petits taxis in Rabat are blue and follow the same metered system as in Casablanca. The city is also reasonably walkable between major attractions in the historic core, including the medina, the Kasbah of the Udayas, and the Hassan Tower area.
🕌 Things to See and Do
Casablanca
The Hassan II Mosque is the undisputed centrepiece of the city and one of the largest mosques in the world. Its minaret soars over 200 metres and the building itself extends over the Atlantic, with a retractable glass floor above the sea. Guided tours for non-Muslim visitors are available and offer a rare opportunity to enter one of Morocco’s great religious buildings.
The medina of Casablanca is modest by Moroccan standards but offers a quieter, more authentic alternative to the modern city. The souks here sell spices, fabrics, and traditional crafts.
The Corniche is a lively seafront promenade stretching along the Atlantic coast, lined with cafés, restaurants, and beach clubs. It is a popular spot for an evening stroll.
The Art Deco architecture of the city centre, particularly around the Place Mohammed V, is a distinctive feature of Casablanca and reflects the city’s French colonial heritage. A wander through these streets reveals ornate façades and grand civic buildings.
The Villa des Arts is a cultural centre housed in a beautifully restored Art Deco mansion, hosting contemporary Moroccan and international art exhibitions.
Rabat
The Hassan Tower is an incomplete twelfth-century minaret that stands alongside the mausoleum of Mohammed V, the revered former king of Morocco. The mausoleum is an exquisite example of traditional Moroccan craftsmanship and is open to visitors of all faiths.
The Kasbah of the Udayas is a fortified medina perched at the mouth of the Bou Regreg river. Its blue-and-white painted streets are peaceful and picturesque, and the Andalusian garden within its walls is a serene retreat.
The Chellah is a walled necropolis on the southern edge of the city, built over the ruins of a Roman settlement. It is a hauntingly atmospheric site, with storks nesting on the ancient towers and wild vegetation threading through the ruins.
The Rabat Archaeological Museum holds one of Morocco’s finest collections of Roman-era artefacts, including remarkable bronze sculptures found at the nearby site of Volubilis.
The medina of Rabat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a pleasure to explore. It is less overwhelming than the medinas of Fez or Marrakech and well suited to a relaxed afternoon of browsing.
⚠️ Things to Be Aware Of
Culture and Customs
Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country and Islamic culture shapes daily life in both cities. Visitors are expected to dress modestly, particularly when entering mosques, medinas, and more traditional neighbourhoods. Shoulders and knees should be covered as a matter of respect, and women may feel more comfortable with a scarf to hand.
Ramadan, the Islamic holy month, significantly affects the rhythm of daily life. During this period, eating, drinking, and smoking in public during daylight hours is considered deeply disrespectful to those who are fasting, and in some contexts may attract unwanted attention. Many restaurants close during the day but open in the evening, and the atmosphere after sunset is festive and welcoming.
Public displays of affection are frowned upon and should be avoided in both cities.
Friday is the Islamic day of prayer. Many businesses, particularly in the medinas, may close or operate on reduced hours around midday on Fridays.
Language
The official languages are Arabic and Amazigh (Berber). French is very widely spoken, particularly in business, government, and tourism. In Casablanca especially, French is often the default language of communication. English is spoken in tourist areas but is less prevalent than in some other North African destinations. A few words of French or Arabic are always appreciated by locals.
Bargaining
Bargaining is standard practice in the souks and medinas. Prices quoted to tourists are typically a starting point for negotiation. Approach it as a friendly exchange rather than a confrontation, and be prepared to walk away if a price does not suit you.
Personal Safety
Both cities are generally safe for tourists, though standard urban precautions apply. Pickpocketing can occur in crowded areas, particularly in the medinas and busy markets. Keep valuables secure and be aware of your surroundings.
Unofficial guides or touts may approach you near tourist attractions, particularly around the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca and the medinas. A polite but firm refusal is usually sufficient.
Local Laws
Moroccan law prohibits the possession, use, and trafficking of illegal drugs. Penalties are severe and apply equally to foreign nationals. Cannabis, though widely available in some areas, is illegal.
The consumption of alcohol is permitted in licensed venues such as hotels, certain restaurants, and bars, but public drinking is not acceptable and is illegal. Both cities have a reasonable selection of licenced establishments.
Photography of government buildings, military installations, palaces, and police officers is prohibited. It is also polite to ask permission before photographing individuals, particularly in the medinas.
LGBTQ+ relationships are criminalised under Moroccan law, and public displays of same-sex affection carry serious legal risks. Discretion is strongly advised.
Currency and Payments
The currency is the Moroccan dirham (MAD). The dirham is a restricted currency, meaning it cannot be taken out of the country in significant quantities and cannot be purchased easily before arrival. ATMs are plentiful in both cities. Cash remains important, particularly in the medinas, smaller restaurants, and for tipping.
Tipping
Tipping is customary and appreciated. A small tip for restaurant staff, hotel porters, and parking attendants is standard practice. Even where a service charge is included, a small additional tip is welcomed.
The best time to visit Casablanca & Rabat
🌸 Spring (March to May) — The Sweet Spot
Spring is widely considered the finest time to visit both cities. Temperatures sit in a comfortable range of around 17–24°C, rainfall begins to taper off from March onwards, and the cities emerge green and lively. Casablanca’s Corniche walkway and Arab League Park are at their prettiest, with jacaranda trees in bloom and families filling the promenades. Rabat’s Kasbah of the Udayas and the rose gardens near the Royal Palace feel especially inviting under soft spring sunshine.
March can still bring some Atlantic weather fronts and occasional showers, so earlier in spring is a little more unpredictable. By April and May, days are largely dry and warm without the intensity of summer heat, making this a wonderful time for sightseeing, coastal walks, and exploring the medinas on foot. Crowds are moderate rather than overwhelming, and prices haven’t yet peaked.
What to pack: Lightweight trousers and breathable tops for the day, a light jacket or cardigan for evenings, a compact rain mac or fold-up umbrella for March showers, comfortable walking shoes, sunglasses, and SPF 30+.
☀️ Summer (June to August) — Warm, Dry, and Breezy
Summer on the Atlantic coast is a different proposition to the brutal heat of inland Morocco. The Canary Current keeps Casablanca and Rabat noticeably cooler than cities like Marrakech or Fez, with average highs of around 23–28°C. Rainfall is almost nonexistent, and skies are predominantly clear — though morning sea mists can soften the early hours, particularly in June.
This is the peak season for beach-goers, with Casablanca’s Ain Diab coastline and Rabat’s Plage de Yasmina drawing local and international visitors in large numbers. Sea temperatures reach around 22–23°C by August, which is warm enough for comfortable swimming. The Festival de Casablanca — a massive celebration of music, cinema, and urban culture — typically takes place in July or August and is a highlight for culture lovers.
On the downside, accommodation and flights are at their most expensive, and popular sites can feel busy, particularly at weekends when Moroccan domestic tourism peaks.
What to pack: Loose, breathable linen or cotton clothing, a light layer for evenings and air-conditioned restaurants, swimwear, sandals, a hat with a wide brim, high-factor sunscreen (SPF 50 recommended), and a reusable water bottle.
🍂 Autumn (September to November) — Warm, Quieter, and Brilliant Value
Autumn is arguably the most underrated time to visit. September and October remain warm and largely dry — temperatures hover between 20–26°C — while the intensity of the summer crowds begins to ease. The sea is at its warmest in September and October, making this an excellent time for beach visits without the full crush of peak season.
By November, Atlantic weather fronts begin to return and rain becomes more frequent, but the temperatures remain very pleasant and visitor numbers are low. This is an ideal window for those wanting the best of both worlds: warm weather, affordable rates, and a more authentic, unhurried feel to both cities. Rabat in particular takes on a golden, relaxed character in autumn, perfect for long afternoon wanders through its historic districts.
What to pack: Light daytime clothing, a versatile mid-layer (a linen blazer or denim jacket works well), a waterproof layer for November, comfortable shoes suitable for walking on cobblestones, sunscreen, and a scarf for cooler evenings.
❄️ Winter (December to February) — Mild, Atmospheric, and Crowd-Free
Winter in Casablanca and Rabat is considerably milder than most European destinations, making it an appealing escape during the colder months. Daytime temperatures typically reach 17–20°C, though evenings can feel noticeably chilly, particularly in January and February when the thermometer can dip towards 8–10°C overnight. Rain is at its heaviest during this period, with November through January being the wettest stretch, but sunny intervals are common and extended downpours are rarely relentless.
This is the quietest and most budget-friendly time to visit. Museums, mosques, and historic sites are blissfully uncrowded, and the cooler conditions are ideal for extended walks through the medinas and Art Deco quarters. The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca and Rabat’s Mohammed V Mausoleum are both magnificent in the low winter light. Food markets and cafés are lively year-round — warming tagines and mint tea feel especially welcome in the cooler months.
What to pack: Layers are essential — jeans or chinos, warmer tops, a proper waterproof jacket, a scarf and light gloves for evenings, and a pair of waterproof shoes or ankle boots. An umbrella is a must.
| Season | Months | Temp | Rainfall | Crowds | Cost | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mar – May | 17–24°C | Moderate | Moderate | Mid | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| ☀️ Summer | Jun – Aug | 23–28°C | Very Low | High | High | ⭐⭐⭐ |
| 🍂 Autumn | Sep – Nov | 17–26°C | Low–Mod | Low | Low–Mid | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| ❄️ Winter | Dec – Feb | 13–20°C | Moderate | Low | Low | ⭐⭐⭐ |
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
If you can only visit once, late September through to the end of October offers the most well-rounded experience in both Casablanca and Rabat. The summer heat has mellowed without surrendering to winter rains, the beaches are still warm enough for swimming, sightseeing is thoroughly comfortable, and the two cities take on a relaxed, crowd-free pace that lets you actually feel their character rather than simply tick off the highlights. Spring — particularly April and May — runs a very close second, with glorious weather and a fresh, vibrant energy. Whatever season you choose, this stretch of Morocco’s Atlantic coast rewards visitors with a gentler, breezier, and more cosmopolitan side of the country that most travellers never quite expect.
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