Belle Fourche in South Dakota is officially recognised as the Geographic Centre of the Nation — the precise point equidistant from all outer boundaries of the United States including Alaska and Hawaii — marked by a dedicated monument welcoming curious visitors year-round.
South Dakota: Custer State Park
🦬 Custer State Park – Big Sky, Big Bison and a Complicated Name
So, there we were, rolling through the Black Hills of South Dakota, and honestly, the scenery alone was enough to make even the most jaded Londoner put his phone down. Custer State Park sprawls across a genuinely enormous 71,000 acres, making it the largest state park in South Dakota — and, rather fittingly, the very first one the state ever got around to establishing, back in 1919. It was named after Lieutenant Colonel George Armstrong Custer, a man whose reputation has aged about as well as a warm prawn sandwich. Custer made his name as one of the more flamboyant Union cavalry commanders during the American Civil War of 1861 to 1865, where his reckless bravery somehow kept getting mistaken for military genius. He survived that war, which is more than can be said for his luck at the Battle of the Little Bighorn in 1876, where the Lakota Sioux and Cheyenne rather emphatically made their point. In between, he’d spent a good deal of time in the Black Hills region leading expeditions and, to put it diplomatically, doing considerable damage to Native American communities. So yes, the name on the park sign carries a fair bit of baggage. Moving swiftly on.
The park itself sits conveniently close to Rapid City and is just a short drive from Mount Rushmore — where four American presidents stare out of a mountain with the slightly baffled expression of men who didn’t quite expect this to happen. Right next door is Wind Cave National Park, which is very much worth your time if you enjoy the sensation of being underground and slightly nervous. But the real draw of Custer is the wildlife, and good grief, there’s a lot of it. The park has been named one of the top ten wildlife destinations in the entire world, which is the sort of claim that usually turns out to be slightly optimistic — except here, it really isn’t. Roaming across those great sweeping grassland plains, backed by rolling green hills and scattered copses of trees, are around 1,500 bison. Or buffalo, if you prefer — they don’t seem to mind what you call them, as long as you call them from a safe distance. These are enormous, ancient-looking creatures, and watching a herd of them lumber across the open plain is one of those moments that makes you feel briefly and unexpectedly small, which at my age I find rather refreshing. You might also encounter whitetail and mule deer, elk, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and coyotes doing their shifty best to look inconspicuous. And you will — almost certainly, no question — come across the prairie dogs. These sociable little rodents live in sprawling underground “towns” dotted throughout the park, and they pop up from their burrows with an air of tremendous self-importance that I found oddly relatable.
We took the Wildlife Loop scenic drive, an 18-mile route that meanders through pine-covered hills, rolling prairies and dramatic red-walled canyons. It is, in short, exactly the sort of drive that makes you wonder why you ever bother with motorways. The bison are very much the stars of the show out here, and we were lucky enough to get some genuinely close encounters as we worked our way around the loop. And by close, I mean uncomfortably, thrillingly, slightly-worrying close.
At one point we found ourselves caught in what can only be described as the world’s most one-sided traffic jam. A herd of bison had simply decided that the road was theirs now, and were ambling along it with the serene indifference of people who know perfectly well they weigh 2,000 pounds and cannot be argued with. Nobody hooted. Nobody got out of their car to remonstrate. We all just sat there, engines idling, watching these magnificent great beasts do exactly as they pleased — which, when you think about it, is entirely fair enough. This is their park. We’re just visiting.
🫏 The Burros of Custer — Small Donkeys With Zero Shame
Sadly, we didn’t spot any elk or bighorn sheep, which was disappointing, though I suspect they were simply avoiding us. What we did find, entirely unexpectedly, was a small group of burros — which, for those who didn’t pay attention in geography lessons, are essentially small donkeys.
These animals have been roaming Custer State Park for well over a century with a proprietorial air, as if they know perfectly well they were here long before you arrived. Their story is a good one. Back in the early days of the park, burros were used as pack animals, carrying visitors and their luggage up the steep trail to Sylvan Lake Lodge near the summit of Black Elk Peak — the highest point east of the Rockies at 7,242 feet. When the tourist pack trips eventually ended, someone decided the most practical solution was simply to let them go. The burros seemed perfectly fine with this arrangement and have been roaming wild ever since.
Now, these burros are extraordinarily friendly, though I use “friendly” in the same way one might describe a persistent market trader. Their sociability is entirely food-motivated. They amble up to passing vehicles, pressing their faces against windows in search of a snack. Keep your window closed and they’ll leave a spectacular smear of warm slobber as a parting gift. The Park Service officially discourages feeding them — a policy observed with roughly the same commitment people apply to a two-drink limit at a works Christmas party. The burros know this. They’ve been at it for a hundred years. They’re not stopping now.
Planning Your Visit
🦬 Custer State Park, South Dakota
| 📍 Location | 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, South Dakota 57730 |
|---|---|
| 🕖 Opening Times | Open year-round, 24 hours daily (entrance stations and visitor facilities operate on seasonal schedules) |
| 🌐 Website | South Dakota Game, Fish & Parks – Custer State Park |
| 📞 Phone | 605-255-4515 |
| ParkInfo@state.sd.us |
🚗 How to Get There
| Nearest Airport | Rapid City Regional Airport (RAP) — 42 miles, approx. 50 mins by car. Major rental car providers available. |
| From Rapid City | US-16 West for approximately 35 miles to the eastern entrances of the park (~45–50 mins). |
| From Mount Rushmore | 20 miles southwest via US-16A and Iron Mountain Road (~35 mins). |
| From Badlands National Park | Approximately 95 miles west (~1 hr 45 mins) via I-90 and US-16. |
| From Denver, Colorado | Approximately 390 miles north (~6.5 hours) via I-25 and US-85. |
| From Sioux Falls | Approximately 340 miles west (~5 hours) via I-90 and US-16. |
| By Bus | No direct public transport into the park. A rental car is strongly recommended for accessing scenic drives, trailheads, and wildlife viewing areas. |
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Custer State Park 7-Day Vehicle Pass | Motorcycle (7-Day) | Motorcoach / Bus Visitors | Annual SD Parks Pass (Residents) | Annual SD Parks Pass (Non-Residents) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| $25 | $20 | $4 per person | $40 | $60 |
ℹ️ A park entrance license is required for all motorized vehicles entering the park. The Custer State Park temporary license is valid for up to seven consecutive days. Annual South Dakota Park Entrance Licenses provide access to all South Dakota state parks and recreation areas. Fees can be purchased online or at park entrance stations.
The park is famous for its scenic drives, including the Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road, and Wildlife Loop Road, where visitors commonly see bison, pronghorn, elk, burros, and bighorn sheep. Arriving early in the morning or late afternoon offers the best wildlife-viewing opportunities. The park is busiest from June through August and during the annual Buffalo Roundup in late September.
Entry fees and operating policies are set by the South Dakota Department of Game, Fish and Parks and may be revised; visitors are advised to confirm current charges before travel.
Best time to visit South Dakota
🌸 Spring (March–May)
South Dakota in spring is a season of transformation. The Black Hills shake off their winter coat, wildflowers push through the thawing earth, and wildlife becomes increasingly active — particularly in Custer State Park, where bison calves begin to appear in May. Temperatures range from around 4°C in March to a pleasant 18°C by late May, though snowfall can still occur well into April, especially at higher elevations. Crowds are thin, prices are lower, and the landscape feels wonderfully alive. The Badlands are spectacular in spring light, with dramatic skies and flowering cacti dotting the pale formations. It’s an excellent time for birdwatching, hiking, and road-tripping without the summer rush.
🎒 What to pack: Layered clothing is essential — pack a waterproof jacket, warm fleece, light jumper, and a base layer for cold mornings. Waterproof walking boots will handle muddy trails. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and a compact umbrella for unpredictable showers. Binoculars are a worthy addition for wildlife spotting.
☀️ Summer (June–August)
Summer is peak season in South Dakota, and for good reason. Long sunny days, warm temperatures between 25°C and 32°C, and the full opening of every attraction make it the most accessible time to visit. Mount Rushmore buzzes with visitors, the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally draws hundreds of thousands in August, and Needles Highway offers some of the most dramatic drives in the American West. The Badlands, however, can be brutally hot — early morning or evening visits are strongly advisable. Wildlife viewing in Custer State Park is superb, with the annual Buffalo Roundup in late September just around the corner. Book accommodation well in advance, especially around Sturgis week.
🎒 What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing — shorts, t-shirts, and a light long-sleeved layer for evenings. High-SPF sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat are non-negotiable in the Badlands heat. Carry plenty of water. Comfortable trainers or trail shoes for walking, and insect repellent for the evenings. A light rain jacket for afternoon thunderstorms.
🍂 Autumn (September–November)
Autumn is arguably South Dakota’s finest season. Crowds begin to thin after Labour Day, temperatures cool to a comfortable 10–20°C range, and the Black Hills ignite with golden aspens and crimson oaks. The famous Buffalo Roundup at Custer State Park, held in late September, is one of the most spectacular wildlife events in North America. The Badlands take on rich ochre and amber tones in the lower sun, making for extraordinary photography. By November, cold sets in quickly and some visitor facilities close, so early-to-mid autumn offers the sweet spot of good weather, reduced crowds, and full access to attractions.
🎒 What to pack: Medium-weight layers — a warm fleece, a windproof jacket, and long trousers. Temperatures can swing significantly between day and night, so adaptable clothing is key. Sturdy walking boots with ankle support for trail hiking, gloves and a hat for November visits. A camera with extra memory for the autumn colours and the Buffalo Roundup.
❄️ Winter (December–February)
Winter in South Dakota is raw, quiet, and genuinely beautiful. Snow blankets the Black Hills and the Badlands take on an almost lunar quality under frost and ice. Temperatures regularly drop below -10°C, and blizzards are possible. Most visitor facilities operate on reduced hours or close entirely, and many roads can become treacherous. However, for those prepared for the cold, winter offers a rare sense of solitude and drama — especially in the Badlands, where snow-dusted formations are hauntingly photogenic. Custer State Park remains partly accessible, and the town of Deadwood keeps its frontier saloon character year-round. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are rewarding in the Black Hills.
🎒 What to pack: Full winter gear is essential — thermal base layers, insulated trousers, a heavy-duty waterproof coat, and a warm hat, scarf, and gloves. Waterproof, insulated boots with good grip are a must. Hand warmers, a car emergency kit (blanket, torch, scraper), and a portable phone charger for cold-weather battery drain. Layers that can be added and removed as you move between heated buildings and the outdoors.
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
If you can only choose one time of year, early autumn — specifically late September — stands out as the sweet spot for visiting South Dakota. The Buffalo Roundup at Custer State Park is one of the most thrilling wildlife spectacles in the whole of North America, the summer crowds have largely dispersed, prices ease back from their peak, and the Black Hills are clothed in breathtaking golden and russet tones. Temperatures are comfortable for outdoor activity, the Badlands are dramatic in the lower autumn light, and every major attraction remains open and accessible. Spring runs a close second for those seeking solitude and wildflower scenery on a budget. Summer offers the fullest experience but demands advance planning and patience with crowds. Winter is strictly for the adventurous and well-prepared. Whatever the season, South Dakota rewards those who make the journey with landscapes that are, quite simply, unlike anywhere else in the world.
Other places close by worth visiting
Mount Rushmore
Mount Rushmore is a large sculpture carved into the granite face of a mountain in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The faces of four American presidents — George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln — were carved between 1927 and 1941 under the direction of sculptor Gutzon Borglum. Each face stands roughly 18 metres tall. The site was chosen partly for the quality of its rock and the amount of sunlight the south-east-facing cliff receives throughout the day. Around three million people visit each year, making it one of the most recognised landmarks in the United States. The surrounding area is home to pine forests, wildlife, and several other historical and natural attractions, making it a popular destination for those travelling through the region.
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park sits in the south-west of South Dakota in the United States, covering around 380 square kilometres of rugged terrain shaped by millions of years of erosion. The landscape is made up of sharp ridges, deep gullies, and layered rock formations in shades of grey, tan, and rust, formed as ancient seas and rivers slowly deposited sediment over time. The park is home to a range of wildlife, including bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, and black-footed ferrets, one of North America’s rarest mammals. Fossils found here have helped scientists build a clearer picture of prehistoric life, with remains of early horses, rhinoceroses, and sabre-toothed cats discovered across the area. Temperatures can be extreme, reaching well above 38°C in summer and dropping sharply in winter, so visitors are advised to carry plenty of water and plan their trips carefully. Around one million people visit each year, drawn by the unusual scenery and the sense of open, unhurried space that the park offers.
The Mammoth Site
The Mammoth Site in Hot Springs, South Dakota, is a remarkable fossil site where the remains of more than sixty mammoths have been uncovered since the discovery of the first bones in 1974. The site formed around 26,000 years ago when a sinkhole filled with water, attracting mammoths and other large animals that became trapped and eventually preserved in the sediment. Both Columbian and woolly mammoths have been identified there, along with the bones of other animals such as giant short-faced bears and camels. Unlike many fossil sites, the bones have been left largely in place, allowing visitors to see them exactly as they were found. A large building was constructed over the excavation to protect it from the weather, and work continues there to this day. It functions both as an active research centre and as a museum open to the public, offering a straightforward and accessible look at a genuinely significant piece of prehistoric North American life.
Crazy Horse Memorial
Located in the Black Hills of South Dakota, the Crazy Horse Memorial is a large mountainside sculpture that has been under construction since 1948. It is being carved out of Thunderhead Mountain to honour the Oglala Lakota warrior Crazy Horse, who is remembered for his resistance to the United States government’s efforts to confine Native American peoples to reservations in the nineteenth century. The project was started by sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski at the invitation of Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear, and following Ziolkowski’s death in 1982, his family has continued the work. When finished, the sculpture will show Crazy Horse on horseback, pointing into the distance. The completed face of Crazy Horse was unveiled in 1998, and work on the remainder of the figure is ongoing. The memorial is privately funded and does not accept federal or state money, which means progress has been slow and steady rather than rapid. A visitor centre, museum, and cultural centre operate on the site, offering information about the history and cultures of North American indigenous peoples.
South Dakota Air & Space Museum
Situated just outside the main gate of Ellsworth Air Force Base near Box Elder, South Dakota, the South Dakota Air & Space Museum is a free attraction that traces the history of American military aviation from the Second World War through to the present day. The museum is made up of both outdoor and indoor areas — an open-air park displays more than 30 aircraft, including bombers and fighter jets that visitors can get close to, while four former alert hangars house indoor galleries covering topics such as Cold War military history, space technology, and the heritage of Ellsworth Air Force Base itself. Among the notable exhibits are a B-25 that served as General Eisenhower’s personal transport and an F-102 once flown by astronaut Gus Grissom. Between mid-May and mid-September, the museum also offers guided bus tours of a Minuteman II missile training silo on the base — the only one of its kind open to the public. Admission is free, and the museum is open Wednesday to Saturday throughout the year..
Minuteman Missle Historic Site
Situated in the grasslands of South Dakota, the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site preserves what remains of a nuclear weapons system that was on standby throughout much of the Cold War. The site consists of a missile launch control facility and a nearby underground silo, both of which have been kept largely as they were when they were in active service. During the Cold War, hundreds of these missiles were scattered across the Great Plains, each one capable of being fired within minutes of an order being given. The National Park Service took over management of the site in 1999, and it is now open to the public as a place to learn about that period of history. Visitors can tour the cramped underground launch control capsule, where two officers would have sat on alert, ready to turn their keys if the command came. The site offers a straightforward look at the realities of nuclear deterrence during the latter half of the twentieth century, without glamourising or condemning the role these weapons played in shaping international relations.
Wall Drug Store
Wall Drug Store sits in the small town of Wall, South Dakota, on the edge of the Badlands. Ted and Dorothy Hustead bought the modest pharmacy in 1931 for around $3,000, during the depths of the Great Depression, when Wall had a population of only a few hundred people. For the first five years business was poor, until Dorothy had a straightforward idea: put up roadside signs offering free ice water to travellers passing along the dusty highway in the summer heat. It worked. Drivers began pulling in, and the Husteads kept putting up more signs — eventually thousands of them, spread across the country and even as far as the London Underground. Today Wall Drug draws around two million visitors a year and has grown well beyond a pharmacy into a sprawling complex with a restaurant, a Western art gallery, souvenir shops, and outdoor attractions including life-sized dinosaur models and a large slide. Free ice water is still on offer, and a cup of coffee costs just five cents. It remains a family-run business, and while it is undeniably larger than life, it grew from a genuinely practical idea by a couple trying to make ends meet in a hard period of American history.
Wind Cave National Park
Wind Cave National Park sits in the Black Hills of South Dakota, in the western United States, and covers around 34,000 acres of mixed-grass prairie and ponderosa pine forest. It was established in 1903, making it one of America’s oldest national parks and the first in the world to be created specifically to protect a cave. Below ground, the cave stretches for well over 130 miles of mapped passages, making it one of the longest and most complex cave systems on earth. It is particularly noted for its boxwork formations — thin fins of calcite that criss-cross the cave walls and ceilings in a honeycomb-like pattern, found nowhere else in the world in such quantity. Above ground, the park is home to bison, elk, pronghorn, prairie dogs, and a range of other wildlife that roam the open grasslands largely undisturbed. Visitors can explore the cave on guided tours, which are the only permitted way to enter it, or spend time on the roughly 30 miles of hiking trails that wind across the surface landscape.
Where to stay?
1. Summer Creek Inn & Spa
Tucked into the stunning landscape of the Black Hills, the Summer Creek Inn and Spa in Rapid City, South Dakota, is a hidden gem for those seeking a luxurious escape from the everyday. This adults-only boutique bed and breakfast offers elegant accommodations with private check-in and check-out services, a sun terrace, and a beautifully landscaped garden. The year-round retreat features ten inviting guest suites, each with private luxury baths, cozy beds, and premium linens, set among grounds with a waterfall, gardens, and quiet patios. Guests can unwind by the outdoor fireplace, soak in the hot tub, or book a spa treatment — just be sure to schedule 24 hours in advance. With Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, and the Crazy Horse Monument all within easy reach, Summer Creek Inn perfectly blends pampering seclusion with Black Hills adventure
2. Sweetgrass Inn Bed & Breakfast
Tucked into the Black Hills just eight minutes south of Rapid City, the Sweetgrass Inn B&B sits within easy reach of iconic South Dakota landmarks including Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse. Owned and run by the hands-on duo Adam and Andrea, the inn radiates a genuine labor-of-love charm that guests consistently rave about — a refreshing alternative to cookie-cutter hotel stays. All eight rooms feature private bathrooms, some with jetted spa tubs, plus flat-screen TVs, and the inn can comfortably host couples, small reunions, and groups of travelling friends. The highlight for many visitors is the morning meal: a made-to-order breakfast served from an actual menu, which is something of a rarity in the B&B world. There’s also an on-site restaurant and bar, a game room, picnic area, and a library — plenty to keep you happily lingering between adventures. Ranked among the top B&Bs in Rapid City on TripAdvisor, Sweetgrass Inn is the kind of place you’ll find yourself planning a return trip to before you’ve even checked out.
3. Under Canvas Mount Rushmore
If you’ve ever dreamed of falling asleep under a sky full of stars just minutes from one of America’s most iconic landmarks, Under Canvas Mount Rushmore might be exactly what you’re looking for. Tucked among ponderosa pines and juniper on the site of an original gold mining settlement, the camp sits less than four miles from Mount Rushmore National Monument, offering a glamping experience that effortlessly blends adventure with comfort. Luxury tents come equipped with private bathrooms, balconies, parquet floors, fireplaces, and outdoor furniture, so roughing it has never felt this good. Evenings are spent around the communal fire pit with complimentary s’mores, and optional stargazing windows let you watch the Milky Way from the comfort of your bed. With Custer State Park, Crazy Horse, and the Badlands all within easy reach, it’s the perfect basecamp for exploring the Black Hills.
More to Explore
