The Gordon House in Silverton is the Pacific Northwest's only publicly accessible Frank Lloyd Wright–designed home — a beautifully restored Usonian masterpiece set within the Oregon Garden.
Oregon: Summer Lake Hot Springs
🗺️ Summer Lake Hot Springs — Oregon’s Dusty Little Secret
Driving through central Oregon is one of those experiences that makes you feel like you’ve accidentally wandered onto the set of a spaghetti western, only without the exciting bits. The landscape is austere, brown, and relentlessly flat in a way that is either deeply meditative or deeply boring, depending on your mood and how long you’ve been in the car. We’ve covered a lot of ground across the deserts of the western United States over the years, and we’ve genuinely grown rather fond of them. There’s a raw, stripped-back honesty to a proper desert — it doesn’t pretend to be anything it isn’t, which is more than can be said for most places.
This particular stretch of Oregon goes by the rather grand title of the ‘Oregon Outback’, which runs along Route 31 — a lonely two-lane road that connects the high desert with northern California and Nevada. We’d driven it several times, always with somewhere else to be, always meaning to stop and never quite managing it. The towns along the way are sparse, and I use the word “towns” generously. Often it’s a handful of houses, a garage with a hand-painted sign, and if you’re having a genuinely good day, a small store selling things of uncertain vintage. We got quite excited by these tiny settlements, which says something about either the landscape or us — probably us.
There is a place out there called Summer Lake, and I should be upfront: it is not much of a lake. There are areas of water, yes, but calling it a lake is a bit like calling a puddle a lido. Global warming has pushed it back to a shadow of its former self, and the shadow is getting smaller. Many, many moons ago — we’re talking thousands of years, back when this corner of Oregon was part of a vast ancient landscape of lakes and wetlands — this whole region was genuinely lush. The area was once part of the massive Lake Chewaucan system, which at its peak during the last ice age covered well over a thousand square miles across the northern Great Basin. Not today. Today it’s mostly dust, and when the wind gets up, proper dust storms roll across the flats in great billowing clouds, which is atmospheric in a biblical sort of way but doesn’t do much for your windscreen.
On the banks of this ‘lake’ sits a small resort called Summer Lake Hot Springs, and this is where things get quietly interesting. The landscape around it is flat and unassuming — you wouldn’t look at it and think “volcano”. But beneath the surface, a geothermal hot spot heats groundwater as it rises, sending it up warm and mineral-rich to feed the resort’s pools. The geology of the area is part of the broader High Lava Plains of eastern Oregon, a region shaped by volcanic activity stretching back millions of years. The hot springs themselves are a modest but very welcome reminder that the earth beneath your feet out here is not entirely dead — just resting.
🌋 Don’t Come Here Expecting a Spa — You’ll Love It Anyway
The Summer Lake Hot Springs resort is, and we say this with genuine affection, not remotely fancy. There’s no sleek clubhouse, no manicured golf course, no cocktail menu with little paper umbrellas, and absolutely no one hovering about asking if everything is to your satisfaction. In fact, if you turned up expecting a five-star retreat, you’d be back on the road within ten minutes, baffled and slightly insulted. And that, rather brilliantly, is the entire point.
This place has been drawing visitors to the high desert of south-central Oregon for decades, sitting quietly beside Summer Lake — a shallow, alkali lake that sits in a fault-block basin formed by ancient geological upheaval millions of years ago. The surrounding Warner Valley has a long human history too, with evidence of Native American habitation going back thousands of years, and later becoming ranching country settled by homesteaders in the late 19th century. None of that history is lost on you when you’re out here. You feel it in the silence.
🏘️ Paisley: Population ‘Barely Worth Counting’
The nearest town — and we use the word “town” generously — is Paisley, Oregon, which at the last count had a population of fewer than 400 souls. To put that in perspective, that’s roughly the same number of people you’d find queuing at a half-decent Waitrose on a Saturday morning. Paisley has a pub, a petrol station, and not much else, which is either charming or deeply alarming depending on your outlook.
Anything resembling a proper urban centre is at least 90 minutes to two hours away by road. The nearest sizeable town is Lakeview, about 30 miles to the south, and Bend — which at least has a Costco — is a good two-and-a-half hours north. You are, in the most literal sense, in the middle of nowhere. We found this enormously liberating, once the mild panic had subsided.
⛺ Your Accommodation Options (Such as They Are)
You can tent camp here, which sounds wonderful in principle and rather less so at two in the morning when the temperature drops to near freezing — which it can do even in summer at this elevation. You can also bring a motorhome, and several people had done exactly that, with varying degrees of preparedness. We spotted one couple who had clearly packed for a fortnight in the Maldives and were regretting every decision.
We opted for one of the on-site cabins, which felt like the sensible middle ground between “sleeping on the ground” and “driving back to civilisation.” The resort has a handful of guesthouses and cabins available, some of which come with full bathrooms and can sleep larger groups comfortably — ideal if you’re the sort of family that travels in a convoy.
We chose one of the cabins that had a shower in the bathroom, which already put us ahead of some of the other options. Basic is the word. Wonderfully, unapologetically basic. There was a bedroom, a bathroom, and a main room that doubled as a sitting area and included a small kitchen with the essentials — enough to make coffee and heat something up without feeling like you were roughing it entirely.
There was no Wi-Fi. There was no mobile phone signal. None. Not even one bar flickering optimistically. Your emails, your Twitter, your group chats about nothing in particular — all of it gone. For some people, this will be their idea of purgatory. For us, after about twenty minutes of twitchy withdrawal, it was a profound relief. The 21st century was still out there somewhere. It could wait.
🌊 Taking the Plunge — The Hot Springs
Now, let’s be honest — the whole reason anyone makes the effort to come to a place like this is the hot springs. It’s certainly why we came. Not the scenery, not the fresh air, not some noble desire to reconnect with nature. No, it’s the hot water. Specifically, the prospect of lowering one’s increasingly creaky body into a steaming pool and just… sitting there. Like a large, contented vegetable.
A short walk from the cabins and campsites — and we’re not talking a route march here, thankfully — there’s a bathhouse with a decent-sized pool inside. On our visit, which happened to fall during the rather memorable chaos of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020, that indoor pool was sadly drained and very much out of action. The sort of thing that makes you feel the universe is specifically targeting you. Typical.
The good news, however, was just outside the bathhouse itself. Three proper pools sat waiting, open to the elements, and the water was beautifully, gloriously warm. Not scalding — nobody wants to feel like a boiled ham — just that perfect temperature that makes every muscle in your body quietly exhale with relief.
We have to confess, we’re absolutely pathetic when it comes to hot springs. We are, shall we say, thermally challenged. Most people can soak away for an hour looking perfectly serene. We managed about fifteen minutes before having to haul ourselves out, red-faced and slightly dizzy, muttering about how the heat was “probably a bit much.” The proper hot-spring veterans — you know the type, the ones who look like they’ve been marinating in geothermal water since birth — regard people like us with barely concealed contempt. Quite right too.
The saving grace was that the pools were practically on our doorstep. Being so close to the cabins meant we could nip over for a quick soak, stagger back to recover, have a cup of tea and a lie-down, then do the whole ridiculous performance again a couple of hours later. We managed three sessions in a single day, which felt like something of a personal triumph.
One practical note worth mentioning: younger children need to be supervised in and around the pools at all times, which is entirely sensible. And between 7 am and 9 pm, bathing suits are compulsory — so leave the ambitions of going full European at home.
🥾 Getting Out and About
Beyond the pools, if we’re being honest, there is not a great deal to keep you occupied here — and that, rather wonderfully, is entirely the point. This is not the sort of place where a clipboard-wielding activities coordinator ambushes you after breakfast to sign you up for a beach volleyball tournament. No. Modula exists for one purpose: to slow you down, and it does this with quiet, unhurried efficiency.
That said, we are not entirely the sort of people who can lie horizontal for six hours without eventually feeling we ought to be doing something vaguely useful with our legs. So we laced up our boots and headed out on foot directly from the resort — no shuttle bus required, no faff, no waiting for Dave from reception to unlock the gate. The trails begin right there, which, at our age and fitness level, was something of a relief.
The hiking was straightforward enough — well-marked, sensibly graded, and rewarded us with exactly the kind of views that make you feel briefly smug about not having spent the afternoon on a sun lounger. We did a couple of the shorter routes, which took the better part of a morning and left us feeling righteously tired in the legs, if not quite ready for anything with ropes.
For the more ambitious, there are longer trails threading out into the surrounding area — proper hikes rather than genteel strolls — and we were told by someone who looked far more athletic than us that the mountain biking around here is, apparently, really rather good. We nodded appreciatively, as one does, and quietly returned to the pool.
In summary …
- Summer Lake Hot Springs is remote but in a beautiful location and worth the effort to go
- There is a variety of accommodation options, but these are basic so don’t expect luxury.
- There is not much to do here apart from relax – soak in the pools, take a walk, read a book or just contemplate life.
Visiting Summer Lake Hot Springs
📍 Overview
Summer Lake Hot Springs is a tranquil, family-owned retreat tucked away in the remote Oregon Outback, approximately two hours south-east of Bend. Set on 145 acres of high desert landscape in Lake County, southern Oregon, it sits between the Fremont National Forest and Hart Mountain, adjacent to the alkali Summer Lake. With 360-degree views of desert, forest, and sky, it is widely regarded as one of the most distinctive and atmospheric soaking destinations in the Pacific North-west.
The springs themselves are ancient artesian sources, rising from nearly a mile underground along the Slide Mountain fault. The water emerges at temperatures of between 106°F and 113°F (41°C–45°C) and flows naturally into both indoor and outdoor pool facilities. The water chemistry is a complex sodium-potassium-chloride mineral blend, and the continuous flow rate of approximately 20 gallons per minute means no chemical treatment is required — guests soak in entirely natural, unchlorinated mineral water.
This is not a luxury spa resort. Summer Lake Hot Springs wears its rustic character with pride. The atmosphere is calm, unhurried, and deliberately low-key — a place built for genuine rest and reconnection rather than polished amenities.
🌊 The Hot Springs & Facilities
The centrepiece of the resort is a historic bathhouse, originally built in 1929, which houses a large indoor mineral pool measuring 15 by 30 feet, with a depth ranging from 3.5 to 5 feet. The pool temperature sits at a comfortable 97–99°F (36–37°C). The bathhouse also includes changing rooms, showers, and restroom facilities.
On the western side of the bathhouse, three rock-lined outdoor soaking pools have been added in more recent years. These pools average 104°F (40°C) and are perfectly positioned to take in sweeping desert sunsets and the extraordinarily clear night skies for which this part of Oregon is celebrated. The resort holds Dark Sky sanctuary status, and stargazing from the outdoor pools is considered one of the highlights of any visit.
Clothing is required in all pool areas before 9 pm. After 9 pm, clothing is optional. Alcohol, tobacco, and glass containers are strictly prohibited in the pool house and outdoor pool areas. The pools are treated as sanctuaries for healing and quiet, and guests are asked to keep voices low at all times.
🛖 Accommodation
Summer Lake Hot Springs offers a range of overnight accommodation options across its 145-acre property.
Cabins and guest houses are available in several configurations, from basic rustic options to more fully appointed stays. All cabins are geothermally heated and fitted with fans for summer use and space heaters for winter. There is no air conditioning. A particularly notable option is the two-bedroom ranch house, which features a private “Grotto” courtyard with its own 24-hour soaking pools.
For those who prefer to sleep under the stars, a large five-acre camping field is available for dry tent camping, with guests free to choose their own spot. Full-hookup RV sites are also available, complete with fire pits and picnic tables.
Overnight guests have unrestricted 24-hour access to the hot springs pools. Day use is not permitted — a reservation and overnight stay is required to access the soaking facilities.
Well-behaved pets are welcome throughout the property. Cabin guests are charged a one-time, non-refundable fee of $30 for up to two pets. No pet fee applies to camping or RV guests. Dogs must remain on a lead within the resort area at all times.
🎶 Events & Activities
Summer Lake Hot Springs hosts an annual programme of workshops and festivals throughout the year. These include yoga and meditation retreats as well as music events, most notably the Coyote Festival in summer and the Outback Music Festival in autumn. Massage services are also available on site.
The surrounding landscape offers excellent opportunities for wildlife spotting, hiking, and birdwatching, particularly at the nearby Summer Lake Wildlife Area, one of Oregon’s premier birding sites. The remote high desert setting — roughly 200 miles from any major city — makes Summer Lake an ideal destination for those seeking deliberate disconnection.
ℹ️ Practical Information
📍 Location 41777 Highway 31, Paisley, Oregon 97636, USA The resort is situated six miles west of the small town of Paisley, on Highway 31 at mile marker 92. Watch for mile marker 92 rather than the resort sign, which was lost in a severe wind event.
🌐 Website www.summerlakehotsprings.com
📞 Phone +1 (541) 943-3931
✉️ Email duane@summerlakehotsprings.com
🕐 Opening Hours The resort is open 365 days a year. Day-use visitors are not accommodated — access to the hot springs is available exclusively to overnight guests, who enjoy 24-hour pool access. The pools are closed for cleaning on Thursday and Sunday nights between 9 pm and 8 am.
💵 Entry Fees & Rates Access to the hot springs is included with all overnight stays. Accommodation pricing ranges from approximately $25 per night for camping up to $350 per night for cabins and guest houses. Camping is priced per person, with an additional $10 fee for full RV hook-ups. A non-refundable pet fee of $30 applies for cabin guests bringing up to two pets. For current rates and availability, contact the resort directly by phone or via the website. Reservations are required and should be made in advance.
Best time to visit Oregon
Oregon is one of the most geographically diverse states in the USA, encompassing rugged Pacific coastline, dense temperate rainforests, volcanic peaks, high desert plateaus, and fertile river valleys. Knowing when to visit — and where to go — makes all the difference between a memorable journey and a soggy disappointment. This guide breaks down the best times to visit by season and by region, with packing advice for each time of year.
🌸 Spring (March–May)
Spring is a season of dramatic transformation in Oregon. Wildflowers carpet the Columbia River Gorge and the Willamette Valley bursts into colour with cherry blossom and tulip blooms. The crowds are thin, prices are reasonable, and the landscape feels genuinely alive.
Willamette Valley & Portland Portland springs to life in April, with the Japanese Garden at its finest and the International Rose Test Garden beginning to bud. The city’s famous food markets and coffee culture are best enjoyed without summer queues. Expect overcast skies and regular showers through March, gradually giving way to mild, bright days in May. The valley’s wine country — particularly around Dundee Hills — is lovely in spring, with green vineyards and damp, fresh air.
Columbia River Gorge This is arguably the finest time to visit the Gorge. Waterfalls are thundering at full capacity from snowmelt, and the wildflower displays on the eastern side — particularly around Rowena Crest — are extraordinary in late March and April. The Historic Columbia River Highway is fully accessible and relatively uncrowded.
Oregon Coast Spring brings dramatic, brooding skies and powerful surf to the coast. While swimming is out of the question (it nearly always is), storm-watching and grey whale migration viewing (March–May) make this a compelling time to visit. Towns like Cannon Beach and Newport are quiet, and accommodation rates are significantly lower.
Central Oregon & the High Desert Bend and the surrounding high desert thaw slowly. March can still be wintry at elevation, but by May the Smith Rock State Park trails are in excellent condition and the crowds have not yet arrived. Wildflowers begin appearing on the desert floor in April and May.
Southern Oregon (Crater Lake, Rogue Valley) Crater Lake typically remains snowbound into May or even June. The rim road is often closed, though the park itself is accessible for snowshoeing. The Rogue Valley — home to Ashland’s Shakespeare Festival — opens its theatre season in February and runs through autumn, making spring an excellent time to combine culture and scenery.
🎒 What to Pack for Spring Layering is essential: a waterproof shell or rain jacket, fleece mid-layer, and moisture-wicking base layers. Pack waterproof walking boots for trail use, a compact umbrella for city days, and sun protection for the high desert and clear-day hikes. Temperatures swing considerably between coast, city, and high elevation — a light down gilet bridges the gap neatly.
☀️ Summer (June–August)
Summer is peak season across most of Oregon, and for good reason. The Cascades are fully accessible, the coast is reliably cool and bright, and long daylight hours give visitors maximum time outdoors. It is also the busiest and most expensive time to travel.
Portland & the Willamette Valley Portland summers are warm and largely dry — a genuine surprise to many visitors expecting Pacific gloom. Temperatures typically sit between 24°C and 30°C in July and August. The Saturday Market, food truck pods, and outdoor festivals are in full swing. The valley’s lavender farms and wineries welcome visitors from June onwards.
Columbia River Gorge Waterfalls are lower in volume than spring but the hiking trails are at their best — dry underfoot, with sweeping views along the gorge rim. Popular trails like Angel’s Rest and Dog Mountain can become very busy on weekends. Visit on weekdays or arrive early to secure parking.
Oregon Coast The coast is never hot — that is part of its charm. Summer averages sit around 16°C to 19°C, with frequent morning mist burning off by midday. The coastal towns are busy but not overwhelmed. Cannon Beach, Seaside, and Pacific City all have a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere even at peak times. Haystack Rock’s tide pools are best explored at low tide during long summer evenings.
Central Oregon & the High Desert Bend transforms into a hub of outdoor activity in summer. Mountain biking, white-water rafting on the Deschutes River, rock climbing at Smith Rock, and hiking around the Three Sisters Wilderness are all at their prime. Temperatures can exceed 35°C in July — hot by Oregon standards — and afternoon thunderstorms are possible. The high desert air is very dry, so hydration is critical.
Mount Hood & the Cascades Timberline Lodge is open year-round, but summer offers the full grandeur of the mountain without snow obscuring lower trails. Wildflower meadows bloom below treeline in July, and the Ramona Falls and Mirror Lake trails are among the finest day hikes in the state. Crater Lake’s rim road typically opens fully by late June, revealing one of the most vivid blue lakes on Earth.
Southern Oregon The Rogue River is superb for rafting and kayaking in summer. Illinois Valley is warm and dry, perfect for exploring the Oregon Caves National Monument. Ashland’s Shakespeare Festival is at its most vibrant in July and August, combining outdoor theatre with excellent local wine and food.
🎒 What to Pack for Summer Breathable, moisture-wicking layers work year-round on the coast; add a light fleece or windproof jacket for evenings. For the high desert and Cascades, sun cream with high SPF, sunglasses, and a wide-brimmed hat are non-negotiable. Carry at least two litres of water per person for any hike above 900 metres. Sturdy trail shoes or boots, lightweight waterproof layer for afternoon thunderstorms, and insect repellent for forest trails round out the kit.
🍂 Autumn (September–November)
Autumn is many locals’ favourite season — and for good reason. Summer crowds fade, temperatures remain pleasant, the foliage turns spectacular, and the harvest season transforms the Willamette Valley and Rogue Valley into culinary destinations.
Portland & the Willamette Valley September is arguably the finest month in Portland. The city is warm, dry, and still lively, without the peak-season pressure. The Willamette Valley’s wine harvest begins in late September, and many wineries open their crush pads to visitors. October brings golden light and falling leaves to Forest Park — one of the largest urban forests in the USA — and the city’s autumn food scene is outstanding.
Columbia River Gorge Autumn foliage along the Gorge is stunning from mid-October into early November. The eastern end of the Historic Columbia River Highway offers particularly vivid colour against the basalt cliffs. Waterfalls return to reasonable volume as autumn rains begin, and weekend crowds drop significantly after Labour Day.
Oregon Coast Storm season begins in earnest by November, which is precisely why storm-watchers descend on Cannon Beach and Depoe Bay. September and October offer the most pleasant coast conditions — mild, bright afternoons and dramatic wave action. The famous grey whale southward migration begins in November.
Central Oregon & the High Desert September remains warm and dry in Bend. Smith Rock is glorious in autumn light, and the crowds thin considerably after the school holidays end. By October, nights are cold at elevation. Snow can arrive at altitude by late October, making early-season snowshoeing possible around Mount Bachelor.
Mount Hood & the Cascades Snow arrives at Timberline Lodge as early as October, and the ski season can begin by November. The autumn foliage in the Hood River Valley is among the most beautiful in the Pacific Northwest — paired with the valley’s famous apple and pear harvest, it makes an excellent weekend destination from Portland.
Southern Oregon Crater Lake in autumn is exceptional: cooler temperatures, thinner crowds, and the possibility of first snowfall dusting the rim for dramatic contrast against the lake’s deep blue. The Rogue Valley harvest season peaks in September and October, with farm stands lining the highways.
🎒 What to Pack for Autumn A quality waterproof jacket becomes increasingly important as the season progresses. Warm mid-layers, a wool or fleece hat, and gloves are sensible from October onwards. Waterproof walking boots are strongly advised for trail use. Pack a few lighter layers for early autumn warmth, transitioning to heavier insulation and thermals for November visits, particularly at elevation.
❄️ Winter (December–February)
Winter Oregon is not for everyone — but for those who seek solitude, dramatic scenery, and a genuine sense of wilderness, it offers something remarkable. Prices plummet, crowds disappear, and the landscape takes on a raw, elemental quality.
Portland & the Willamette Valley Portland winters are grey, damp, and mild — rarely below freezing in the city itself, but consistently overcast. This is the city at its most authentic: independent bookshops, coffee houses, museums, and covered markets come into their own when outdoor activities are curtailed. The Portland Art Museum and OMSI (Oregon Museum of Science and Industry) are excellent rainy-day options. Occasional ice storms do occur and can disrupt travel — worth monitoring forecasts.
Columbia River Gorge Winter transforms the Gorge into something ethereal. Waterfalls partially freeze in hard cold snaps, ice coats the basalt walls, and the whole landscape is stripped back to its geological bones. Multnomah Falls is spectacular year-round and accessible even in winter. Many of the higher trails are closed or icy — check conditions before setting out.
Oregon Coast Storm-watching is the headline winter activity, and the Oregon Coast does it superbly. Hotels in Cannon Beach, Lincoln City, and Depoe Bay offer storm-watching packages during the roughest weather. The grey whale northward migration (December–January) is another draw. The coast remains relatively mild compared to inland Oregon, though wind chill can be brutal.
Central Oregon & the High Desert Mount Bachelor near Bend is one of the finest ski resorts in the Pacific Northwest, with a season typically running from November through April. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are popular alternatives for non-downhill skiers. Bend itself is surprisingly lively in winter, with a strong après-ski culture and a thriving local brewery scene.
Mount Hood & the Cascades Timberline Lodge — Oregon’s most iconic building — comes fully into its own in winter. Skiing and snowboarding on the mountain are excellent, and the historic lodge itself is a destination in its own right. Government Camp and surrounding communities offer a genuine mountain winter experience less than 90 minutes from Portland.
Southern Oregon (Crater Lake) Crater Lake in winter is one of Oregon’s most dramatic sights: the deep blue lake, the snow-covered rim, and the near-absolute silence. Access is limited to the south entrance, and the rim drive is closed, but ranger-led snowshoe walks are available on weekends. It is not easy to reach in winter, but for those who make the effort, it is genuinely unforgettable.
🎒 What to Pack for Winter Thermal base layers, a heavy insulating mid-layer, and a fully waterproof and windproof outer shell are essential. Waterproof boots with good ankle support and grip (or attachable microspikes for icy trails) are strongly advised. Pack warm accessories — hat, gloves, buff or scarf — and carry emergency layers if venturing to elevation. Driving in winter may require snow chains in mountain areas: check Oregon DOT road conditions before any mountain journey
🌟 The Overall Best Time to Visit Oregon
If forced to name a single best time to visit Oregon, late May through early October offers the most dependable conditions across the widest range of regions and activities. September stands out as the sweet spot: the summer crowds have thinned, the weather remains warm and mostly dry across the state, autumn colour is beginning in the mountains, the Willamette Valley harvest is under way, and accommodation rates start to ease. The coast is at its most pleasant, Crater Lake’s rim road is still open, and Portland is warm enough to explore entirely on foot.
That said, Oregon rewards visitors in every season. A winter storm-watcher on the coast, a spring wildflower hiker in the Gorge, or a ski week at Mount Bachelor will each find their own version of the state at its finest. The real key is matching your chosen region and activity to the season — Oregon is too varied and too dramatic to be reduced to a single best time. Choose your landscape, then let the season follow.
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