San José del Cabo is a relaxed and attractively restored colonial town on the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula, offering a quieter alternative to the more commercialised resort atmosphere of nearby Cabo San Lucas.
Mexico: La Paz & Whale Sharks
About Laz Paz
La Paz, located on the eastern coast of Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula, is the capital of the state of Baja California Sur. Known for its tranquil beaches and crystal-clear waters, it serves as a peaceful retreat away from the bustle of more commercialised tourist destinations. The city is situated along the Sea of Cortez, often referred to by Jacques Cousteau as “the aquarium of the world” due to its extraordinary marine biodiversity. This makes La Paz an ideal location for snorkelling, scuba diving, and kayaking, attracting nature enthusiasts from around the globe.
The local culture in La Paz retains an authentic Mexican charm, with a strong sense of community and a laid-back atmosphere. The malecón, a waterfront promenade lined with sculptures, cafés, and artisan stalls, is a central hub for both locals and visitors. Traditional festivals, such as Carnaval and the Día de los Muertos, are celebrated with vibrant parades and music, offering an immersive experience of regional customs and folklore. Despite its growing popularity, La Paz has managed to maintain a balance between tourism and preserving its cultural identity.
Economically, La Paz benefits from a mix of tourism, fishing, and eco-friendly ventures. Efforts have been made to promote sustainable tourism, including whale watching tours and conservation projects that protect the unique marine ecosystems. The city’s infrastructure continues to develop, with improved roads and international connections enhancing accessibility without overwhelming the environment. As a destination, La Paz offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and a slower pace of life, making it an appealing alternative for travellers seeking more than just a typical beach holiday.
Our visit to Laz Paz
Arrival in Baja California Sur
We landed in the arid warmth of Baja California Sur mid-afternoon. Los Cabos International Airport, just outside San José del Cabo, proved to be relatively calm and straightforward to navigate. Our first task was to collect the hire car—never the most enjoyable experience, but mercifully efficient this time. The plan was to drive north to La Paz, roughly a three-hour journey. Though a more direct route hugs the coastline, we opted instead for the mountain road—slower, but reputedly more scenic.
That decision proved worthwhile. The road wound its way through a dry, rugged landscape of desert hills and scrub, punctuated by occasional sweeping views across expansive valleys. The traffic was light, which made the frequent bends more tolerable, and we made steady progress. As dusk began to settle, the faint glow of La Paz appeared ahead. Before reaching our accommodation, we stopped at a supermarket to gather provisions for the coming days—bread, coffee, fruit, a few tins, and some bottled water.
The city, particularly the seafront area, remained lively as night fell. The Malecón—La Paz’s popular waterfront promenade—was bustling with families, cyclists, joggers, and groups of friends enjoying the cooler evening air. Finding a parking space was not straightforward. We circled for a while before eventually settling for a spot several blocks away. The walk to our Airbnb wasn’t too strenuous, though locating the flat itself turned out to be a small adventure. The entry instructions were confusing. After a frustrating back-and-forth with messages, Karen located a secondary code that granted access. The lockbox finally yielded, and we were inside.
A First Evening on the Malecón
We left our bags mostly unpacked and decided to make the most of the evening while the city was still very much awake. The Malecón remained busy, with a blend of locals and a handful of tourists strolling, chatting, and taking in the sea air. There were street musicians, a juggler, and several food carts selling snacks and drinks. The atmosphere was unforced—casual, lived-in, not overly polished for the benefit of outsiders.
Further along the promenade, we came across the Harker Board Company. It’s a curious place—part bar, part restaurant, part surfboard shop. We found a spot on the rooftop, which gave us a good vantage point over the promenade and bay. To my mild surprise, they had a stout on offer—a rare find in this part of the world, where lagers and light ales dominate. The most unusual feature of the establishment was a pulley system stretching across the street to another rooftop bar they also owned. Staff used it to send food and drink back and forth in a small, hand-cranked basket. It reminded me of an old children’s book we used to read to Jack and Emily—The Lighthouse Keeper’s Lunch—though thankfully, no seagulls interfered here.
By the time we left, the air had cooled, and the city had grown quieter, though not silent. The walk back to the flat was unremarkable. It had been a long day, but the final hours had made up for the earlier hassles. We went to bed satisfied, feeling we’d already seen something of the real La Paz.
A Day of Small Tasks
The next morning began slowly. After the previous day’s travel and late evening, we weren’t in a rush. By late morning, we finally ventured out, our only real objective being to locate the marina for the following day’s whale shark tour. Better to find it now than risk confusion in the morning.
The weather was flawless. Clear skies, a manageable breeze, and steady warmth—not overbearing, just pleasant. The walk along the Malecón was as enjoyable as the night before, albeit calmer. We paused at several sculptures and eventually took the obligatory photo beside the large, brightly coloured LA PAZ letters that sit near the centre of the waterfront.
The marina itself wasn’t difficult to locate, but identifying the exact meeting point took more effort. The signage was minimal, and no staff were on hand to confirm details. We eventually met a tourist who had taken the same tour previously and pointed us in the right direction. Unfortunately, he also felt compelled to share his personal views on climate change, which veered sharply into denial. We listened politely, then made our exit at the first opportunity.
We returned to the city centre and visited the market, picking up a few more supplies. Nothing urgent—just items to make the next few days easier. Back at the flat, the rest of the afternoon passed uneventfully. Later, we returned to the Malecón for another evening stroll. This time it was quieter—less spectacle, more reflection. It wasn’t an exciting day, but a necessary one. The sort that helps pace a longer trip.
Whale Sharks and Sea Lions
The day of the whale shark tour began early, but without stress. Our prior recon made the journey to the marina straightforward. The group assembled gradually—a dozen or so people, varied in age and background but all clearly looking forward to the day ahead.
Our guide was Chrissie, originally from Long Island, now a long-time resident of La Paz. Her story—arriving for a short stint, falling for someone local, and staying—seems to be a common one here. She clearly knew her subject, and her confidence put the group at ease.
Out on the water, we were each issued wetsuits and snorkels. Visibility in the Sea of Cortez was limited due to plankton, but this was precisely what attracted the whale sharks. They are filter feeders, plankton being their main food source. When the first one was spotted, Barbara and Marc—an Austrian couple seated near us—entered the water first. Then it was our turn.
Swimming alongside the whale shark was surreal. Eight metres long, covered in white spots, and utterly indifferent to our presence. We kept the required distance but were still able to appreciate its scale. Later, in a second round of swimming, I ended up a little too near its tail—unintentionally, but a reminder of how difficult it is to gauge distance in water.
We also swam with sea lions near a rocky outcrop, where younger animals played curiously around us. It wasn’t aggressive behaviour—more exploration than anything. The snorkelling in that area was vibrant, full of reef fish and colour. Afterward, we were taken to a small beach for lunch—burritos, cold drinks, shade. Nothing extravagant, but more than adequate.
Music and Conversation
The boat ride back to La Paz was choppier. I was moved to the front to help balance weight, which meant enduring a fair bit of spray. Not unpleasant, just brisk. Karen chatted with Chrissie and Barbara, asking questions about long-term life in La Paz—clearly part of our ongoing search for possible future seasonal homes.
Chrissie recommended a local spot called Capuchino, popular with expats and known for its Tuesday open mic nights. As it happened, it was indeed Tuesday, so we went.
Capuchino looked unassuming from the outside but revealed a spacious courtyard with a modest stage at the back. The crowd leaned older, mostly foreign, mostly at ease. A local woman played guitar and sang, followed by a spontaneous jam led by a group of women and a visiting singer who joined in without fanfare. The music was casual but sincere.
An American man told me I resembled Billy Connolly. I took it as a compliment, though I suspect the likeness was superficial. He and his friends were happy to chat, and provided some useful local insights. We stayed for a while, then slipped away during an extended folk set and went in search of dessert. An ice cream sufficed. We ate it on the walk back.
A Quiet Final Day
The following day, we had little planned. After a slow morning, we finally ventured out and visited the city’s modest cathedral. Unlike the elaborate churches found in mainland Mexico, this one was plain. The simplicity was refreshing—more functional than decorative.
Nearby, we noticed a building that turned out to be the city’s small art museum. Posters advertised a flute recital that afternoon, so we decided to stay and explore. The museum featured two main exhibitions—one from a local artist who had lived in a camper van, and another of photographs from across the peninsula. Both were quietly compelling.
The recital was held in a gallery space converted into a small venue with folding chairs. The flautist played a mix of film scores and popular melodies. It wasn’t polished, but it was sincere. One man in the audience responded enthusiastically—perhaps a little too enthusiastically—but no one seemed overly bothered.
It was a calm and low-key end to our stay in La Paz. We’d seen a lot, but never felt rushed. There was space here—for thought, for small moments, and for unexpected encounters. It’s not a place that demands attention, but it rewards it.
Getting to and around La Paz, Mexico
✈️ Getting to La Paz
La Paz is located in the state of Baja California Sur on Mexico’s western coast, bordering the Sea of Cortez. Although La Paz has its own airport—Manuel Márquez de León International Airport (LAP)—many international visitors arrive via Los Cabos International Airport (SJD), located approximately 180 km south, near San José del Cabo.
Flights to Los Cabos are typically more frequent and better connected, especially from North America and major hubs such as Mexico City. From Los Cabos, travellers can drive to La Paz in around 2.5 to 3 hours, making it a practical and often preferred entry route.
Domestic flights to La Paz are available from cities like Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Tijuana, usually on regional carriers such as Volaris or Aeroméxico Connect. The La Paz airport is small but functional, with straightforward customs procedures and a modest selection of services.
🚗 Driving to La Paz
Hiring a car is one of the most convenient ways to travel to and explore La Paz. From Los Cabos, there are two main driving routes:
Route 19 (Via Todos Santos): A scenic coastal drive passing through the artsy town of Todos Santos. Slightly longer but more picturesque.
Route 1 (Mountain Route): A more direct inland route that’s quicker and quieter, winding through desert landscapes.
The roads are generally in good condition, though drivers should remain alert for occasional livestock and speed bumps, particularly when approaching small towns. Fuel stations are available along both routes, though they may be spread out, so it’s wise to fill up before departure.
Driving in La Paz itself is straightforward. The city’s grid layout makes navigation simple, and traffic is relatively light compared to larger Mexican cities. However, parking can be limited along the Malecón during evenings and weekends.
🚌 Local Transport and Taxis
For those not hiring a vehicle, local buses and colectivos (shared minivans) offer basic but functional transport within the city and nearby areas. These are low-cost options, though not always clearly signposted, and best used with some understanding of Spanish.
Taxis are widely available, but they do not use meters. Fares should be agreed upon before departure. For better transparency and convenience, many travellers now prefer to use ride-hailing apps like Uber, which operate reliably in La Paz and offer competitive pricing.
For day trips to beaches like Balandra or Playa Tecolote, a car remains the most flexible option, though occasional shuttle services or taxis can also be arranged.
🚶 Getting Around on Foot
La Paz is a highly walkable city, particularly around the central areas near the Malecón. Many of the main sights, cafés, restaurants, and shops are within walking distance of each other, making it ideal for those who prefer to explore on foot.
The Malecón itself stretches for several kilometres along the seafront, offering a scenic and safe route for pedestrians, joggers, and cyclists alike. Public benches, sculptures, and shaded rest stops are spaced at regular intervals.
In the evenings, the promenade becomes a social hub, with families, street vendors, and live performers all contributing to a lively yet relaxed atmosphere.
The best time to visit La Paz, Mexico
☀️ Spring (March – May)
Spring is one of the best times to visit La Paz. Daytime temperatures range from 25°C to 33°C, with little to no rainfall. The Sea of Cortez remains calm, and visibility for snorkelling and diving is excellent. This is also an ideal time for wildlife enthusiasts: grey whales are still migrating through the area in early spring, and sea lions are active around Espiritu Santo Island. Crowds are thinner compared to winter, and accommodation prices are slightly more favourable.
Spring also marks the start of various local festivals and community events. While it can be hot towards May, coastal breezes make the heat more tolerable. For those averse to humidity, this is a good window before the summer season kicks in.
🌊 Summer (June – August)
Summer in La Paz is hot and increasingly humid, with daytime temperatures often exceeding 38°C by July. Rain is more common, particularly in August, although downpours tend to be short and localised. Tourism slows down during this period, which means fewer crowds and lower accommodation costs—but the heat can be intense.
This is the low season for many tour operators, though fishing and diving are still popular. Whale sharks do not frequent the bay during these months, but the warmer waters bring a variety of tropical fish closer to shore. If you’re comfortable with the heat and seeking solitude, summer can still be rewarding.
🐋 Autumn (September – November)
Autumn is a transitional season in La Paz. September is still quite hot and humid, with the tail end of the hurricane season occasionally bringing storms. By October and November, conditions become more pleasant, with falling temperatures and reduced humidity.
From late October, whale sharks begin to return to the bay, marking the start of the popular snorkelling season. Autumn also sees a resurgence in eco-tourism, and tour operators begin offering more regular excursions. November, in particular, is a sweet spot: warm weather, clear skies, and excellent marine life without the winter crowds.
🌤️ Winter (December – February)
Winter is peak tourist season in La Paz, especially among visitors from colder climates. Temperatures are mild, typically between 20°C and 28°C, and humidity is low. This is the best time for outdoor activities, including kayaking, hiking, and visiting nearby islands. The Sea of Cortez is at its most inviting, and whale sharks are reliably present in the bay from December through April.
Accommodation prices and flights tend to rise during this season due to high demand, particularly around Christmas and New Year. That said, the weather is consistently pleasant, making it a safe and popular choice for a winter escape.
Where to stay in La Paz
1. Luxury – Hotel Catedral La Paz
2. Mid-Range – Hotel Posada Luna Sol
3. Budget – Hotel Plaza
More to Explore
