York blends Roman, Viking and medieval history with cobbled streets, stunning Gothic architecture, ancient city walls and a buzzing food and culture scene, making it one of England's most rewarding cities to explore on foot.
UK: York – The Castle Museum
🏰 Back Again at York Castle Museum
We’ve been to York more times than we care to count over the years, and there’s one place we just keep finding ourselves drawn back to — the York Castle Museum, sitting right next to Clifford’s Tower in the heart of the city.
The museum was the brainchild of Dr John Kirk, a GP from Pickering in North Yorkshire, who spent decades amassing a remarkable collection of everyday social history objects from across the county. Kirk donated his collection to the city in 1935, and the museum opened its doors that same year.
One of its most celebrated attractions is Kirkgate, a full-scale reconstructed Victorian street, complete with cobbles, shop fronts, and gas lamps. It became so influential that it’s credited with inspiring reconstructed street displays in museums right across the world.
What makes it all rather fitting is where it’s housed — a former debtors’ prison, with an adjoining women’s prison bolted on next door. Both buildings are Grade I listed, which means they’re about as protected as you can get. The museum takes its name from the fact it occupies the site of the old York Castle itself, which has quite a history of its own.
The museum is spread across two wings, and between them they carry a solid mix of permanent and temporary exhibitions. The permanent collections are the backbone of the place — the stuff that’s always there regardless of when you visit. The temporary exhibitions are a nice touch too, giving the museum a reason to keep things feeling fresh. It means there’s nearly always something new to see, which is probably why we’ve never once left feeling like we’d wasted the trip.
🛋️ Stepping Back in Time Through the Period Rooms
One of the things we always make a beeline for when we visit York Castle Museum is the period rooms. They do exactly what it says on the tin — show you how ordinary people actually lived, right across the centuries. And we mean ordinary people, not the toffs up at the big house.
You walk through a proper crofter’s cottage — bare, sparse, and honestly a bit grim — and it really brings it home just how tough life was for working folk not all that long ago. Then, before you know it, you’re wandering through rooms that look like they’ve been lifted straight out of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s, complete with the furniture, wallpaper, and general clutter that will have anyone of a certain age muttering “we had one of those.”
That’s what makes these rooms so quietly brilliant. They’re not about kings and queens — they’re about us, our grandparents, and the people who came before them. The curators have got the details spot on, right down to the tins on the kitchen shelf. Absolutely worth a good wander round.
👗 Shaping the Body: 400 Years of Fashion, Food and Life
Now, we’ve wandered round plenty of museum exhibitions over the years, and this one genuinely stopped us in our tracks. The museum’s latest permanent exhibition takes a good hard look at how fashion, food and fitness have shaped the human body over the past four centuries — and it does not pull its punches.
Where else are you going to come face to face with an iron corset? And we mean that literally — the thing is made of iron. Women were actually expected to wear that. Then there’s a pair of crotchless pantaloons straight from the Regency era, the sort of thing Jane Austen’s characters would have had on under all those empire-line frocks. We’ll leave that one with you.
There are bum rolls too — padded contraptions worn around the hips to give skirts that fashionable rounded silhouette — and what the museum rather brilliantly describes as a killer dress, which, knowing fashion history, probably isn’t entirely metaphorical.
It’s a fascinating, occasionally eyebrow-raising trot through four hundred years of the lengths people have gone to in order to look the part.
🛖 Kirkgate – York’s Very Own Time Machine
We’ve wandered down Kirkgate more times than we can remember, and it still gets us every time. This recreated Victorian street is reckoned to be one of the oldest indoor streets of its kind anywhere in the world — quite possibly the oldest — and it holds the distinction of being the first of its kind to open here in Britain. It became the centrepiece of the Castle Museum when the doors opened back in 1938, and it was the vision of one man: Dr John Lamplugh Kirk, the very same chap who founded the museum and after whom the street is named.
Kirk’s idea was simple but brilliant — he wanted visitors to genuinely feel as though they’d stepped back into a bygone age, cobbles, gas lamps, and all. When it first opened, many of the shops and locations dotted along the street were named in honour of the people who’d helped get the museum off the ground in the first place. A lovely touch, we thought.
⚔️ 1914: When the World Changed Forever
We’ve walked through this part of the museum more than once, and it never gets any easier. The exhibit takes you from the last golden summers before the war — a time when Britain was riding high on prosperity and empire — and dumps you, pretty sharpish, into the full horror of what came next.
You start at the recruitment office, all patriotic posters and cheerful volunteers, before being hustled along to a troop train heading for the front. And then it hits you. The trenches. Rats the size of small dogs, the misery of foot rot, the thousand-yard stare of men broken by shell shock, and the silent terror of gas drifting across no man’s land.
Back home, Britain was changing just as dramatically, though rather more quietly. Women in the workforce, rationing, grief arriving by telegram — nothing would ever be quite the same again.
And of course, this wasn’t just a European squabble. The old empires dragged in their colonies and dominions, turning a political assassination in Sarajevo on 28th June 1914 into the first truly global conflict in human history. Millions died. The world was never the same.
📺 The Sixties
One of the rooms we always make a beeline for is the Sixties gallery, and it never fails to bring a smile to our faces. The exhibits are exactly what you’d hope for — proper everyday household stuff from the decade: food packaging with those wonderfully garish designs, clothes that make you wonder what on earth people were thinking, electrical items that look like they’d give a modern health and safety inspector a heart attack, toys we vaguely remember from childhood, and vinyl records stacked up like they’re waiting for a party to start.
What really sets this gallery apart though is how interactive it is. You can pick up one of the special telephone handsets dotted around and listen to real people’s memories of the decade — proper ordinary folk talking about what life was actually like back then, which is far more interesting than any wall label. There’s a Jukebox you can have a go on, pumping out the hits of the era, and television screens showing actual footage from the time — news clips, adverts, programmes — the lot.
It’s nostalgia done properly, and we love it.
🔒 York Castle Prison – Where the Walls Have Dark Tales to Tell
The museum itself is housed in proper 18th-century prison buildings, and that alone gives the place a certain atmosphere you can’t manufacture. We’re talking thick stone walls, cramped cells, and a history that doesn’t pull its punches.
There’s a dedicated exhibition inside that brings the original inmates to life, and it’s genuinely gripping stuff. The star of the show is Dick Turpin — yes, that Dick Turpin, the legendary highwayman — who was actually held here before his execution in York in 1739. The exhibition focuses on eight former inmates, and Turpin is the headline act, but the supporting cast is equally fascinating.
Among them is the last woman to be burnt at the stake in Yorkshire, which tells you everything you need to know about how justice worked back then. There’s also a Luddite, a notorious turnkey who bent every rule going, a man who was beaten so savagely by prison staff that he died from his injuries, and a young tearaway who somehow turned his life around and ended up making a decent go of things in Australia.
Dark, brutal, and completely unmissable.
Planning Your Visit to the Castle Museum
| 📍 Location | Tower Street, York, YO1 9RY | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| 🕖 Opening Times | Monday – Saturday: 9:30 AM – 5:00 PM; Sunday: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:00 PM) | 🌐 Website | www.castlemuseum.org.uk |
| 📞 Phone | 01904 687687 | castle.museum@york.gov.uk |
🚂 By Train York railway station is approximately 15 minutes’ walk from the museum. Head south through the city centre via Micklegate or Tower Street.
🚌 By Bus Several First York bus services stop on Tower Street and nearby Piccadilly. The museum is a short walk from the city centre bus stops.
🚗 By Car The museum is signposted from the ring road and city centre. The nearest car parks are Piccadilly Car Park and Castle Car Park, both within a few minutes’ walk. Note that York city centre has extensive traffic restrictions.
🚶 On Foot Centrally located within the historic city walls, the museum is easily walkable from most of York city centre, the Shambles, and Clifford’s Tower, which stands directly opposite.
ℹ️ Notes Last entry is one hour before closing. The museum is housed in the former Female Prison and Debtors’ Prison buildings.
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Adults | Children (under 16) | Concessions | York Card Holders |
|---|---|---|---|
| £14.00 | Free | £12.00 | Free |
The Best Time to Visit Yorkshire
🌸 Spring — March to May
Spring breathes new life into the dales and moors. Bluebells carpet the woodland floors, lambs dot the hillsides, and seabirds return to the cliffs at Flamborough Head. The North York Moors and Dales are vivid and uncrowded, and May is the pick of the season — mild weather, long days, and lower prices than summer. Coastal towns such as Whitby and Scarborough are pleasantly quiet.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket, fleece or mid-layer, sturdy walking boots, quick-dry trousers, thermal base layer for early mornings, sun protection, compact umbrella, daypack.
☀️ Summer — June to August
The finest all-round season for outdoor activity. Days are long, the countryside is lush, and the coast comes alive. June and early July offer the best balance of good weather and manageable crowds; August brings school holidays and busier roads. The Great Yorkshire Show in July and the Tour de Yorkshire cycling event require accommodation booked well in advance.
What to pack: Lightweight clothing, reliable waterproof jacket, walking shoes, sun hat, sunglasses, factor 30+ sun cream, light fleece for evenings, insect repellent for moorland walks, swimwear, reusable water bottle.
🍂 Autumn — September to November
Arguably the most spectacular time on the North York Moors, when heather blazes purple from mid-August through September. October turns the woodland valleys gold and amber. Temperatures remain comfortable into early October and visitor numbers drop sharply after the summer holidays end. November brings shorter days but atmospheric abbeys, quieter villages, and excellent value accommodation.
What to pack: Fleece or light down jacket, waterproof outer layer, walking boots with good grip for muddy paths, warm hat and gloves for later in the season, thermal base layers, scarf.
❄️ Winter — December to February
Yorkshire at its quietest and most atmospheric. York’s Christmas markets and medieval streets are magical in December, and Rievaulx and Whitby abbeys are dramatic under frost or snow. Higher dales roads can close in severe weather — check conditions before heading out. Accommodation is at its cheapest and most available throughout January and February.
What to pack: Warm waterproof coat, thermal base layers, heavy fleece or down mid-layer, warm hat, gloves, scarf, insulated waterproof boots, thick walking socks.
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
For most visitors, late spring (May) and early autumn (September) are the standout choices. May offers a fresh, vivid landscape, comfortable walking weather, and none of the summer crowds. September brings the spectacular heather bloom, golden light, and pleasant temperatures once the holiday rush has passed. Both months combine natural beauty with practicality and value — though Yorkshire has something to offer in every season, whatever draws you there.
Other things to do in York
1. National Railway Museum
The National Railway Museum is free to enter and is one of the most visited museums in the country outside of London. It holds an enormous collection of locomotives, carriages, and railway memorabilia spread across several large halls. The sheer scale of some of the engines is striking, and there is plenty to keep you occupied for a good few hours. It is well set up for families, though it can get quite crowded at weekends and during school holidays. There is a café on site, and the museum is only a short walk from York railway station, making it easy to include in a day visit to the city.
2. York Minster
York Minster is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Northern Europe and sits right in the heart of the city. You can walk in and look around the main nave for free, though a ticket is needed to access the tower, the crypt, and the underground visitor centre. It gets busy, particularly in summer and around religious holidays, so arriving early in the day tends to make things a little easier. The stained glass windows are genuinely impressive, and if you are able to climb the tower, the views over York are well worth the effort. There are regular services throughout the week, so it is worth checking the website before you go if you want to be sure of access..
3. Jorvik Viking Centre
The Jorvik Viking Centre is built on the site of an actual Viking settlement that was excavated in the 1970s and 1980s. The main experience involves a slow-moving ride through a reconstruction of what the area would have looked like around a thousand years ago, complete with sounds, smells, and replica figures. It is a fairly short experience overall, but it is well put together and the archaeological finds on display are genuinely interesting. Entry is ticketed and it is one of the more popular attractions in York, so booking ahead online is a sensible idea, especially during busy periods. It is located on Coppergate in the city centre and is easy to reach on foot from most of the other main sights.
4. Clifford’s Tower
Clifford’s Tower is the largest remaining part of York Castle and sits on top of a steep grassy mound near the centre of the city. It is managed by English Heritage, so entry is ticketed, though members get in free. The tower itself is not enormous, but climbing up gives you good views across York and the surrounding area. There is a rooftop walkway which was added in recent years, making the most of the elevated position. The site has a difficult history — in 1190, a large number of Jewish residents of York were killed here — and there is information on site that addresses this. The climb up the mound can be a little steep, but the tower is accessible once you reach the top.
Where to stay
1. YHA York Hostel
Sitting along the banks of the River Ouse at Water End in Clifton, YHA York is one of those rare hostels that genuinely surprises you. Far from the spartan, no-frills image that “youth hostel” might conjure, this is a warm, welcoming space with a café, bar, and comfortable rooms that cater equally well to solo travellers, couples, and families. The riverside setting gives the whole place a peaceful, almost countryside feel, despite being a short walk from the city centre. Guests regularly rave about the friendly atmosphere, the hearty breakfasts, and the good-value evening meals. Whether you’re here to explore the Viking heritage of York or simply need a comfortable, affordable base, YHA York delivers in spades.
2. The Jorvik House
On the tranquil stretch of Marygate, opposite the ancient ruins of St Mary’s Priory and just moments from the River Ouse, Jorvik House has quietly built a reputation as one of York’s most characterful boutique hotels. The Scandinavian-influenced décor gives the interiors a cool, distinctive edge — think clean lines and considered styling — while the staff are known for going above and beyond, including round-the-clock reception cover. Rooms range from cosy doubles to impressive junior suites, and breakfast delivered to your room is a touch that elevates the experience further. Centrally located yet away from the bustle of the main tourist drag, Jorvik House strikes an enviable balance between accessibility and calm. It’s a genuine local gem.
3. Galtres Lodge Hotel
Right in the beating heart of historic York, Galtres Lodge Hotel on Low Petergate offers something that larger chain hotels simply cannot replicate: genuine character. With rooms featuring open fireplaces, exposed beams, and deep roll-top baths, the hotel wears its heritage with real style. Several rooms enjoy jaw-dropping views directly across to York Minster, which is the kind of morning sight that makes you want to linger over breakfast. And what a breakfast it is — the Full Yorkshire is a proper affair, and the dining area downstairs has the cosy, relaxed atmosphere of a place that takes hospitality seriously. Under the watchful eye of general manager David and even the resident dog Toby, guests leave feeling genuinely looked after. Highly recommended.
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