Hill Top is a 17th-century house in Near Sawrey near Hawkshead, in the English county of Cumbria. The house was once the home of children's author and illustrator Beatrix Potter who left it to the National Trust.
UK: Cumbria – Lake District
🏔️ The Lake District — England’s Crown Jewel
We’ve been to a fair few places in our time, and we can tell you straight — the Lake District is something else. England’s largest National Park, it covered roughly 912 square miles and was designated back in 1951, one of the very first national parks in the country. We’re talking breathtaking lakes, soaring mountains — called ‘fells’ by the locals, a word that came down from the Old Norse fjall, meaning hill or mountain, a reminder that the Vikings were stomping around up here long before any of us — picturesque valleys and, yes, even a sandy coastline along Morecambe Bay. The area was home to 16 lakes and countless tarns (those are the smaller mountain lakes, if you’re wondering), plus Scafell Pike, which, standing at 978 metres, held the title of highest mountain in all of England.
Every lake and valley had a distinct character of its own. Windermere was the grand one, stretching nearly 11 miles and the largest natural lake in England. Ullswater had a more dramatic, rugged feel. Coniston Water was quieter, more contemplative. You could spend weeks up there and never feel like you’d seen it all — and believe us, plenty of people tried.
William Wordsworth, arguably the most famous poet England ever produced, was born in Cockermouth in 1770 and spent the better part of his life in the Lake District. He lived at Dove Cottage in Grasmere from 1799, where he wrote some of his finest work alongside his sister Dorothy. He was famously opposed to the Windermere railway extension in the 1840s, worried it would ruin the place — can’t say he was entirely wrong there. He put it rather well when he described the Lake District as a “sort of national property in which every man has a right and interest who has an eye to perceive and a heart to enjoy.” Couldn’t have said it better ourselves, Bill.
🏘️ The Towns
Most people started their Lake District visit in one of the many towns and villages of Cumbria — and what a county Cumbria was. Formed in 1974 from the old counties of Cumberland and Westmorland, it wrapped itself around the national park like a comfortable old jumper.
The towns and villages were dotted between the lakes and fells, and each one had its own unique story to tell. Two of the larger towns were Carlisle, an ancient city with a castle dating back to the 11th century and a cathedral that predated the Norman Conquest in parts, and Kendal, famous for its mint cake — that peculiarly sweet confection that Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay took with them when they summited Everest in 1953. Proper local fame, that.
Most visitors, sensibly enough, settled for the smaller, more charming towns. Ambleside sat at the northern tip of Windermere and had been a market town since the 17th century. Coniston was the village that sat in the shadow of the Old Man of Coniston fell, and was closely associated with both John Ruskin — the Victorian art critic who lived at Brantwood — and Donald Campbell, who tragically lost his life on Coniston Water in 1967 attempting a water speed record. Keswick, up in the northern fells near Derwentwater, was perhaps the most lively of the smaller towns, with a long history going back to the arrival of German miners in the 16th century who came to work the local copper and graphite mines. Yes, that’s right — pencils. Keswick basically invented the modern pencil. You’re welcome, stationery fans.
One of the quaintest towns we came across was Hawkshead, tucked away between Windermere and Coniston. Despite its small size — and we mean small, you could walk the whole of it in ten minutes — it had plenty of places to eat and make merry. Hawkshead had another claim to fame worth mentioning: Wordsworth himself attended the local grammar school there from 1779 to 1787, and the building still stood, preserved as a museum. Beatrix Potter, who bought Hill Top farm nearby in 1905 with the proceeds from The Tale of Peter Rabbit, was also closely connected to the area. The village’s whitewashed buildings, narrow cobbled lanes and complete absence of through traffic made it feel rather like stepping back a couple of centuries — which, frankly, was exactly what we needed.
🌊 The Lakes
Now, with a name like the Lake District, it would be a bit daft to come all this way and not spend some proper time down by the water. And we did exactly that. The lake shores, with the fells sweeping down to meet them, offered some of the finest views we’d clapped eyes on anywhere in England — and we’ve been around a bit, so that’s saying something.
The Lake District was home to an astonishing array of lakes, waters, and tarns, with 16 bodies of water considered to be the main lakes. Now, here’s a thing that catches people out — and it caught us out too, the first time. Technically speaking, only one of them was actually called a “lake.” That was Bassenthwaite Lake, up in the northern fells near Keswick. Every other one went by “Water” or “Mere” — Windermere, Ullswater, Coniston Water, Derwentwater and so on. The word “mere” came from Old English, simply meaning a lake or pond, while “water” was straightforward enough even for us Londoners. The Norse settlers, who arrived in the 9th and 10th centuries and left their linguistic fingerprints all over Cumbria, were largely responsible for many of the place names we use to this day.
Windermere, naturally, was the big one — the largest natural lake in England at just under 11 miles long and about a mile wide at its widest point. It had been pulling visitors in since the Kendal and Windermere Railway opened in 1847, much to the fury of old Wordsworth who, as we mentioned, was thoroughly unimpressed by the idea of the masses descending on his beloved landscape. Well, the masses came anyway, Bill, and they’ve never really stopped.
Ullswater, up in the eastern fells, was widely regarded as the most scenically dramatic of all the lakes, winding its way for about 7.5 miles through the fells like a great silver serpent. It was on the shores of Ullswater, at a spot near Glencoyne Bay, that Dorothy Wordsworth famously described seeing a field of daffodils in her journal in April 1802 — the very sight that inspired William to write what became arguably the most well-known poem in the English language. Not a bad bit of local inspiration, that.
Derwentwater, sitting just south of Keswick, was perhaps the most romantic-looking of the lot — broad, shallow, studded with small wooded islands that seemed to float on the surface like something out of an Arthurian legend. Then there was Coniston Water, long and quiet, where the unfortunate Donald Campbell met his end in Bluebird in January 1967 at a speed of over 300 miles per hour. A sobering thought as you stood on the peaceful shore watching the ducks go about their business.
The tarns were a different matter altogether — smaller, higher, wilder. These were the little mountain lakes scattered across the fells, often only reachable on foot after a decent climb. Tarn Hows, near Coniston, was probably the most visited and most photographed of them all, even though — and here’s a fine bit of Lake District trivia — it was actually man-made in the Victorian era by damming several smaller tarns together. Don’t let that put you off though; it was absolutely gorgeous and we defy anyone to stand there and not feel immediately better about life in general.
Whether you were pottering along the shore of Windermere on a sunny afternoon, taking a steamer across Coniston Water in the footsteps of Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons children, or hauling yourself up to a lonely tarn high in the fells with aching knees and a flask of tea — the lakes, in all their forms, were the beating heart of the whole place. Everything else was just the frame.
🚗 Scenic Drives
Right, let’s talk about getting around the Lake District, because this catches a lot of people out. Yes, it’s a beautiful place — we’ve already established that — and one of the best ways to properly see it is to get behind the wheel and drive those narrow, winding roads. There’s nothing quite like rounding a bend and suddenly finding Windermere spread out below you. However, and this is a big however, unless you go in the dead of winter — and even then, no guarantees — you will almost certainly find yourself stuck in a traffic jam. The Lake District attracted around 19 million visitors a year before it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017, and it’s only got busier since. In summer it could be very slow going, requiring the patience of a saint and possibly a good podcast. You have been warned.
🏞️ The Langdale Valley
One of our absolute favourite drives was the Langdale Valley. The valley runs west out of Ambleside, winding up towards the dramatic Langdale Pikes — Pike being the local term for peak, straight out of the Old Norse. On a sunny day, driving into that valley with the Pikes ahead of you was, frankly, the sort of view that made you feel glad to be alive.
The valley splits into Great Langdale and Little Langdale. Along the B5343 you passed through Elterwater — a proper little gem of a village with a cracking pub and a scattering of craft shops actually worth a browse — then Chapel Stile, before the valley opened up properly. Great Langdale had a choice of pubs, including the legendary Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, a walkers’ pub with an atmosphere no interior designer could ever replicate, plus a National Trust campsite.
🛤️ Over the Hills
The road carried on to the very end of the valley where you had a choice: turn around, or take a tiny single-track road that pitched itself up and over the hills towards Little Langdale. It was the sort of road that made your passenger grip the door handle and question your judgement, but the views from the top made every anxious moment worthwhile. Little Langdale was quieter and far less visited than its bigger neighbour — which, given the summer crowds, was rather the point.
🥾 Hikes and Walks — Get Out of the Car and Breathe
Look, driving around the Lake District was all well and good, but if we’re honest, it could be a bit of a headache. The roads were narrow, the tourists were many, and the passing places were, shall we say, optimistically sized. The real joy came when we switched the engine off, laced up the boots and actually got out there on foot.
The options were enormous. For the more adventurous amongst us, there were multiday hikes — the Coast to Coast walk, devised by the legendary fell-walker Alfred Wainwright in 1973, passed right through the heart of the Lake District and was considered one of the finest long-distance walks in England. Then there was the small matter of Striding Edge on Helvellyn, a knife-sharp arête that required both hands and a decent head for heights. Not one for after a big lunch. Scaling the fells — Scafell Pike, Helvellyn, Great Gable — gave a genuine sense of achievement and views that made the effort feel entirely worth it.
That said, most of us were perfectly happy with a solid day hike or a gentle lakeside stroll, and there was absolutely no shame in that. The Lake District catered beautifully for all levels.
One of our absolute favourite spots was Tarn Hows, tucked away in the southern part of the national park near Coniston. The National Trust acquired it in 1930, partly thanks to Beatrix Potter who had originally purchased the land herself. It was one of those places that looked almost impossibly picturesque — a small mountain tarn surrounded by mixed woodland, with the fells rising behind it. There were over 15 marked routes in the area, most rated easy to intermediate, which made it ideal whether you were a seasoned walker or a complete beginner dragged along against your will.
In summary …
The Lake District National Park in Cumbria in northwest England is an amazing area of natural beauty. Being on the northwest coast it can be very wet, even in the summer so it is advisable to take a brolly and rain jacket. Even in the rain, it is beautiful.
This is a very popular place to visit for local and international tourists alike. It can be very busy in the summer with cars and coaches clogging the narrow roads. Parking can be a challenge in the high season.
Don’t let the weather or traffic put you off. It is an amazing place to visit. There are some amazing hikes and walks and the small towns are loverly to stroll around. Also, there are many quaint pubs to visit to have a beer and a nice meal.
Planning Your Visit to the Lake District
📍 Location
The national park covers around 2,362 square kilometres, bordered by the Pennines to the east and the Irish Sea coast to the west, with the M6 motorway running along its eastern edge. Windermere is the largest lake at ten and a half miles long; Wastwater the deepest at 74 metres; and Scafell Pike, at 978 metres, is the highest point in England.
The main bases for visitors are Windermere, Bowness-on-Windermere, Ambleside, Grasmere, Keswick, Coniston, and Kendal — each with its own distinct character and easy access to the surrounding fells and lakes.
🚆 Getting There
By Train — The West Coast Main Line serves Oxenholme Lake District (around two and a half hours from London Euston), Penrith, and Carlisle. From Oxenholme, a branch line runs to Windermere via Kendal. A direct service also operates from Manchester to Windermere. Penrith is the main railhead for the northern Lakes.
By Car — The M6 is the principal route in. Junction 36 serves the southern Lakes, Junction 40 leads to Penrith and the north, and Junctions 38 and 39 access the central fells. Roads beyond the motorway are often narrow and winding.
By Coach — National Express and FlixBus serve Lancaster, Penrith, and Carlisle, with onward connections into the park.
🚌 Getting Around
By Bus — Stagecoach operates a comprehensive network across the park, including the popular 555 service linking Windermere, Ambleside, Grasmere, and Keswick. Many routes use open-top double-deckers with excellent views. Day rover tickets and combined Bus and Boat passes offer great value. Seasonal shuttle buses serve busy areas such as Buttermere and Wasdale. Community-run Fellrunner buses cover smaller villages around Penrith.
By Boat — Passenger services run on four lakes. Windermere Lake Cruises links Lakeside, Bowness, Brockhole, and Ambleside year-round. Ullswater Steamers stop at Glenridding, Howtown, and Pooley Bridge. The Keswick Launch circles Derwentwater, and the Coniston Launch and National Trust Gondola serve Coniston Water. The Windermere Ferry crosses the lake every twenty to thirty minutes, carrying passengers, cyclists, and vehicles between Bowness and the quieter western shore.
By Bike — Bikes can be hired in the main towns and at Windermere station, including road, mountain, and electric options. Quiet lanes, dedicated trails, and off-road routes criss-cross the park, and electric charging points are widely available.
On Foot — Long-distance routes including the Cumbria Way, the Coast to Coast, and sections of the King Charles III England Coast Path pass through the park, alongside countless shorter fell and lakeside walks.
🅿️ Parking
Car parks in Ambleside, Bowness, and Grasmere fill quickly at peak times. Arriving early and then using buses or boats to explore further is strongly recommended — and often far more enjoyable than driving from spot to spot.
The Best Time to Visit the Lake District
🌸 Spring (March–May)
Spring arrives gradually, but the transformation is spectacular. Snowdrops and daffodils carpet valley floors from late February, lambing season brings the fells to life, and waterfalls run at their most dramatic after winter rain. The days lengthen quickly, giving walkers far more usable daylight. Crowds are manageable outside bank holidays, prices sit below summer peaks, and midges — the biting insects that plague summer evenings — are not yet active. Temperatures range from 7°C in March to around 14°C by May, with overnight frost still possible on higher ground.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket and trousers, walking boots, base layers, fleece, light gloves and hat, quick-dry trousers, small daypack with a dry bag.
☀️ Summer (June–August)
Long evenings — daylight stretching to 10 pm in June — mild temperatures of 18–22°C, and a packed events calendar make summer enormously appealing. Boat hire, cycling, open-air theatre, agricultural shows, and wild swimming in the tarns all come into their own. The downside is popularity: roads clog, car parks fill, and accommodation must be booked months ahead. Midges are at their worst on calm, humid evenings near still water. Early morning starts help avoid both. On a clear day, the views from Helvellyn or Scafell Pike are unmatched anywhere in England.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket, T-shirts and light layers, walking boots, sun cream, sunglasses, midge repellent (DEET or Saltidin), a warm layer for evenings, swimwear for wild swimming.
🍂 Autumn (September–November)
Many seasoned visitors rate autumn as the finest season. Summer crowds thin sharply by mid-September, yet the weather often remains settled. Foliage turns from mid-October and the effect on Borrowdale, Ullswater, and Grizedale Woods is breathtaking. Low-angled light catches the lakes in ways no photograph quite captures. Midges have dispersed, prices drop, and the pubs and restaurants feel at their most inviting. November brings heavier rain and shorter days; some smaller businesses close for winter, and low-lying paths can flood after prolonged wet spells.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket and overtrousers, waterproof walking boots, warm mid-layer, hat and gloves, gaiters for boggy paths in late autumn, headtorch for shortening afternoons.
❄️ Winter (December–February)
Winter is quiet, raw, and for the right visitor, deeply rewarding. Popular spots take on a calm, unhurried quality impossible to find in summer, and accommodation prices drop to their annual low. Snow on the higher fells — possible from November to March — transforms the landscape dramatically, though anything above 500 metres becomes serious mountain terrain requiring proper winter kit and experience. Valley walks remain accessible and atmospheric. Keswick’s Christmas market, local ales, Herdwick lamb, and sticky toffee pudding by an open fire make winter in Cumbria genuinely special.
What to pack: Insulated waterproof jacket, thermal base layers, fleece or wool mid-layers, waterproof boots, warm hat and gloves, buff, headtorch, hand warmers, microspike attachments for icy paths.
🗓️ Summary Table
🏆 Overall Best Time to Visit
For the best balance of scenery, accessible paths, reasonable prices, and manageable crowds, late September to mid-October is the standout choice. The fells glow gold and rust-red, the summer hordes have gone, midges are finished for the year, and settled high-pressure days bring long, clear views. First-time visitors or families would do well to consider late May instead, when the landscape is freshly green, the weather is improving, and prices have not yet reached their summer peak. In truth, no season disappoints in Cumbria — it simply asks that you bring a waterproof, start early, and stay flexible.
Where to stay
1. Youth Hotel Ambleside
If you’re after a budget base with a view that genuinely stops you in your tracks, YHA Ambleside is hard to beat. Sitting right on the shores of Windermere, this stylish four-star hostel offers an unbeatable location, stunning views, and state-of-the-art facilities for families, groups, and solo travellers. The hostel has a modern bar and restaurant serving good food and local ales, and a highlight of recent renovations is the decked terrace overlooking Lake Windermere. Positioned in the centre of the Lake District National Park and within walking distance of Ambleside village, you’ll have easy access to prime walking, climbing, and water sports. With dorm beds and private rooms on offer, it’s the kind of place that punches well above its price point — and those lake views at breakfast are simply unbeatable..
2. Diamond Lodge
For those seeking something a little more refined, Diamond Lodge Boutique Guest House is a gem of a find on Ambleside’s Lake Road. This adults-only property features ten well-appointed rooms, each with a flat-screen TV and scenic views over the gardens and surrounding countryside, along with free Wi-Fi, ample private parking, and a sun terrace. It sits within easy walking distance of both Ambleside’s restaurants and bars and the shores of Lake Windermere — making it perfectly placed for exploring without the need for a car. Guests consistently rave about the warm welcome from the owners and the quality of the full English breakfast. With upscale comfort meeting natural beauty, and a hearty breakfast included each morning, it’s a thoroughly relaxing base for a Lake District break.
3. Ambleside Inn
Right in the thick of things on Market Place, The Ambleside Inn is the sort of place that feels like it has always been there — because it essentially has. This traditional Lakeland slate building has been welcoming visitors for over 300 years, and its character reflects that long-standing heritage. Recently reopened following an exciting restoration, it serves up delicious homemade pub food all day, every day, as well as a wide range of drinks, with comfortable bed and breakfast accommodation to round out the experience. Just a 10–15 minute walk from Lake Windermere, it makes an ideal base for both relaxing breaks and more active getaways — and it’s dog-friendly too, with selected rooms welcoming four-legged guests. Cosy, central, and full of Lakeland charm, it’s the classic inn stay done properly.
Where to eat
Ginny’s Teapot
Being a tourist hub there are plenty of places to eat in and around Stratford. Of course, these cater for the masses, but if you are like us, vegan, the options are more limited. We did discover a small cafe in the centre of Stratford, the Plantarium, that is completely vegan. So, no need to think! It is a quaint place and the food was amazing – we recommend it highly.
More to Explore
