United Kingdom: Berkshire – Windsor Castle
🏰 A Royal Day Out: Windsor Castle, Berkshire
We’d been meaning to visit Windsor Castle for years. Years. The sort of thing you put off because it’s on the doorstep and you always think, yes, we’ll do it next month. Well, next month finally came, and on a genuinely glorious summer’s day — proper blue sky, warm breeze, the lot — we drove the twenty-odd miles out of London and did it.
Windsor, in case you’ve somehow missed it, is a royal borough in Berkshire, just west of London, sitting on a chalk ridge above the River Thames. The town itself is pleasant enough, with its cobbled streets and the rather unavoidable long shadow of the castle looming over everything. It has a very “this is England” feel to it, and I mean that as a compliment.
👑 The Changing of the Guard
We got there early on purpose. The Changing of the Guard at Windsor is one of those ceremonies that sounds a bit touristy but is actually quite something to watch. It takes place in the castle precinct and along the High Street, usually at 11:00am, though it’s worth checking ahead as it doesn’t happen every single day and can be cancelled for state occasions or bad weather — though bad weather was the last thing on anyone’s mind that morning.
The ceremony dates back centuries, though its present form largely evolved during the 17th century under Charles II, who reorganised the Household Troops after the Restoration in 1660. The regiment on duty marches from Victoria Barracks on Sheet Street with the band playing, and there’s something genuinely stirring about it, even if you’re not especially patriotic. Karen, who’ll tell you she’s not easily impressed by this sort of thing, stood there quietly watching with a big smile on her face.
Windsor Castle itself is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world. It’s been a royal residence for nearly a thousand years, originally built by William the Conqueror shortly after the Norman Conquest of 1066, though obviously not in the form we see it today. What you look at now is the result of almost constant building, rebuilding, and tweaking by monarchs from Henry II in the 12th century right through to George IV in the 1820s, who spent a frankly eye-watering sum — around £1 million at the time — on a grand remodelling by architect Jeffry Wyatville.
🎀 Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House
Our tour started with Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House, and if you’re tempted to skip it because it sounds like something for children, don’t. It really isn’t. Well, it is, but it also isn’t.
Photography isn’t permitted in the Dolls’ House exhibit, so any images you see of it online will have come from official sources or the internet.
The house was created between 1921 and 1924 as a gift to Queen Mary, consort of King George V, and was designed by the architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. Lutyens was one of the most celebrated architects of his generation, responsible for much of the design of New Delhi and countless country houses across England, and he brought that same seriousness of purpose to what is, let’s be honest, a very large dolls’ house.
And it is large. It stands at 1/12th scale, which means everything in it — the furniture, the silverware, the wine bottles in the cellar — is exactly one twelfth the size of the real thing. The attention to detail is frankly absurd in the best possible way. The library contains over 200 miniature books, each one individually written and illustrated by authors and artists of the day, including Arthur Conan Doyle, Thomas Hardy, and Rudyard Kipling. The wine cellar holds real vintage wine in tiny bottles. The linen is monogrammed. The gramophone plays. The taps actually run water. The lifts work.
It took around 1,500 craftsmen and artists to put together, and was displayed at the British Empire Exhibition at Wembley in 1924 before being installed at Windsor. It was intended both as a celebration of British craftsmanship and as a historical record — a snapshot of what a grand English house looked like in the early 1920s, preserved at a scale that means it will never wear out. You do find yourself staring at individual rooms thinking about how many hours of work went into something the size of a shoe box. Remarkable, genuinely.
🖼️ The State Rooms
Again, photography is not allowed in the State Rooms, so any images floating around on the internet have come from official royal sources.
From the Dolls’ House, we moved into the State Rooms themselves, which are the grand ceremonial rooms used for official and state occasions. These are the rooms where visiting heads of state are received, where state banquets are held, and where the full weight of British history sits on you in a rather agreeable way.
The rooms are arranged on the Upper Ward of the castle, and they were largely redesigned — again — by Jeffry Wyatville for George IV in the 1820s. George IV had very strong opinions about how things should look and a seemingly bottomless budget for expressing those opinions. The result is extraordinarily grand: high ceilings, enormous chandeliers, walls lined with paintings by Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Canaletto, and enough gilding to make Versailles feel restrained.
The Grand Reception Room is perhaps the most overwhelming, decorated in the Louis XV style with a vaulted ceiling and ormolu (that’s gilded bronze, for those of us who had to look it up) everywhere you turn. The Waterloo Chamber, created by George IV in 1830 to commemorate the victory over Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, is something else entirely — a long room lined with portraits of every allied leader, soldier, and statesman involved in the defeat of Napoleon, painted by Sir Thomas Lawrence. Lawrence was dispatched around Europe after the battle specifically to capture these likenesses, and the whole thing has the feel of a very expensive and very serious group photograph.
The rooms were badly damaged by a fire in November 1992 — a date that won’t be forgotten, as it was also the year the Queen called her “annus horribilis” in a speech at the Guildhall. The fire started in the Queen’s Private Chapel and eventually destroyed or damaged around 115 rooms. The restoration took five years and cost approximately £37 million, much of which was raised by opening Buckingham Palace to the public for the first time. The restoration work was so painstaking and so faithful to the originals that most visitors would have no idea which parts of the rooms are new.
Several of the monarchs who left their mark on these rooms are also buried at Windsor. St George’s Chapel, which we were heading to next, has been the burial place of British monarchs since Edward IV, who began the current chapel in 1475.
⛪ St George’s Chapel
St George’s Chapel is the bit that got to both of us, if I’m honest.
It sits in the Lower Ward of the castle and is one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in England. Building of the current chapel began under Edward IV in 1475, though there had been a chapel on the site since the reign of Henry III in the 13th century. It was largely completed under Henry VII and Henry VIII in the early 16th century, and the result is something genuinely magnificent: a high vaulted ceiling, enormous stained glass windows, and an atmosphere of absolute quiet that you don’t quite expect given how many people are moving around inside it.
The chapel is the spiritual home of the Order of the Garter, the oldest and most senior order of chivalry in England, founded by Edward III in 1348. The story goes — though historians debate this — that a lady at a court ball dropped her garter, and Edward III picked it up and tied it to his own leg, saying “Honi soit qui mal y pense,” which is Old French for “shame on whoever thinks evil of it.” Whether that’s exactly what happened or not, the Order of the Garter has been going strong ever since, with a membership capped at 24 knights companion plus the sovereign. The chapel’s choir stalls are hung with the heraldic banners of current knights, and the brass plates on the stalls below name every knight going back centuries.
The chapel is also a royal mausoleum. Ten monarchs are buried here, including Henry VIII — who is interred in the choir alongside his third wife Jane Seymour, the only one of his six wives to give him a surviving male heir — and Charles I, whose body was brought to Windsor after his execution in 1649. More recently, King George VI was buried here in 1952, and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother in 2002. The Duke of Edinburgh joined them in 2021, and following Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II’s death in September 2022, she was interred in the King George VI Memorial Chapel, the small side chapel adjoining the main building, alongside her parents and her husband.
We stood near that spot for a while. There were a fair few other people doing the same, all quietly. It had that effect on people.
The fan vaulting of the nave ceiling is extraordinary — it spreads out above you like the inside of a very elaborate stone umbrella, and it was completed around 1528. Unlike the State Rooms, photography is permitted in the chapel, which we were glad of, and we took more photographs than was probably necessary.
Planning Your Visit to Windsor Castle
| 📍 Location | Windsor Castle, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ | 🕖 Opening Times | Daily 10:00 AM – 5:15 PM (last entry 4:00 PM). Closed periodically for royal events — check ahead. |
| 🌐 Website | rct.uk/visit/windsorcastle | ||
| 📞 Phone | 0303 123 7304 | info@rct.uk | |
| 🅿️ Parking | No on-site parking. Nearest public car parks in Windsor town centre (e.g. King Edward Court). | ℹ️ Notes | Audio guides included. Large bags must be checked in. Security screening on entry. Photography permitted in most areas. |
| 🎟️ Entry Fees |
| Adults | Children (5–17) | Under 5s | Family (2 adults + 3 children) |
|---|---|---|---|
| £32.00 | £19.50 | Free | £83.00 |
🚗 Getting There
Windsor Castle is in the heart of Windsor town centre, easily accessible by multiple routes. By train, take South Western Railway from London Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside (approximately 55 minutes), or Great Western Railway from London Paddington, changing at Slough, to Windsor & Eton Central — both stations are a short walk from the castle. By road, Windsor is just off Junction 6 of the M4. By bus, Green Line coaches run from London Victoria. The castle is clearly signposted throughout Windsor.
1. State Entrance 2. Hall and Inner Hall 3. Grand Stairs 4. Grand Vestibule 5. Waterloo Chamber 6. St George’s Hall 7. Grand Reception Room 8. Garter Throne Room 9. Queen’s Presence Chamber 10. Queen’s Audience Chamber 11. Queen’s Gallery (or Van Dyck Room) 12. Queen’s Drawing Room (or Picture Gallery) 13. King’s Closet 14. King’s Dressing Room 15. King’s Bedchamber 16. King’s Drawing Room (or Rubens Room) 17. Lantern Lobby 18. Undercroft 19. Great Kitchen (not on the public visitor route) 20. Private Chapel (not on the public visitor route) 21. Royal Library (not on the public visitor route) 22. The 14th-century private stair to the Royal Chambers, in the Rose Tower (not on the public visitor route)
The Best Time to Visit Southern England
Southern England is a year-round destination, but each season brings its own distinct character — from the blossoming gardens of spring to the frost-touched cathedrals of winter. Understanding what each season offers will help you plan a visit that matches your interests and expectations.
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Spring is one of the most rewarding times to visit Southern England. The countryside comes alive with colour as daffodils and bluebells carpet the woodlands, and the famous gardens of Kent, Surrey, and the Cotswolds reach their early peak. Temperatures climb gradually from around 8°C in March to a pleasant 16°C by May, making it ideal for walking and exploring.
The tourist crowds are noticeably thinner than in summer, particularly in April, which means shorter queues at popular attractions such as Stonehenge, Windsor Castle, and the Seven Sisters cliffs. Easter can bring a spike in visitors, especially to coastal towns like Brighton and Eastbourne, so booking accommodation in advance around that period is advisable.
The weather in spring can be unpredictable — sunny mornings can quickly turn to showers — but the freshness of the season more than compensates. The light is crisp and flattering for photography, and the longer days mean more time to explore.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket, light layers, walking boots or sturdy trainers, a compact umbrella, sunglasses, a mid-weight jumper, smart-casual clothing for evenings out, and a small daypack.
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Summer is the most popular season for visiting Southern England, and it is easy to see why. Temperatures in July and August typically range between 20°C and 26°C, occasionally climbing higher during heatwaves. The coastline — particularly Dorset’s Jurassic Coast, the New Forest, and the Isle of Wight — draws enormous numbers of visitors, and the region’s outdoor events calendar is at its busiest.
Highlights include the Henley Royal Regatta, Glastonbury Festival, and the numerous village fêtes and open-air theatre productions that dot the countryside. The long evenings, with daylight often lasting until 9pm or later, allow for leisurely exploration of market towns, pub gardens, and coastal paths.
The drawback of summer is the crowds and the corresponding rise in accommodation prices. Popular spots such as Bath, Oxford, and the Cotswolds can feel very busy in July and August. Booking well in advance is essential, and visiting early in the morning or later in the afternoon can help you avoid the worst of the crowds at key attractions.
What to pack: Light breathable clothing, T-shirts and shorts, a packable rain jacket (summer showers are common), sunscreen, a sun hat, sandals or light trainers, a light cardigan for cooler evenings, and a reusable water bottle.
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Autumn is arguably the most underrated season to visit Southern England. September in particular retains much of summer’s warmth — often reaching 18°C to 20°C — while the crowds thin considerably after the school holidays end. The autumn foliage transforms the New Forest, the South Downs, and the Weald into rich tapestries of gold, amber, and russet, making it an exceptional time for walking and photography.
Accommodation prices drop noticeably from mid-September onwards, and many of the region’s best restaurants and gastropubs are more accessible without the summer rush. The harvest season also brings food and drink festivals across the region, from apple-pressing events in rural orchards to seafood festivals along the Kent and Dorset coasts.
By November, temperatures can fall to between 5°C and 10°C, and the shorter days and increased rainfall require more preparation. However, the quieter atmosphere in cathedral cities such as Canterbury, Salisbury, and Winchester takes on a particular charm in the low season.
What to pack: Warm layers, a waterproof and windproof jacket, thermal underlayers for November, sturdy walking boots, a scarf and light gloves, smart-casual layers for evenings, and an umbrella.
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Winter in Southern England is mild by European standards but undeniably grey and damp. Temperatures hover between 3°C and 8°C across the region, with frosts more common inland and snow relatively rare except on higher ground such as the North and South Downs or Dartmoor. The days are short, with darkness falling by 4pm in December.
That said, winter has its own quiet pleasures. The Christmas markets in Winchester, Bath, and Chichester are genuinely atmospheric and far less commercialised than those in larger cities. Many of the region’s historic properties, managed by English Heritage and the National Trust, remain open and are wonderfully peaceful. Accommodation is at its cheapest, and you are unlikely to encounter queues at museums or galleries.
The weeks around Christmas and New Year are an exception, as domestic tourism peaks, particularly in Bath and Brighton. Travelling in January or February offers the best combination of low prices and genuine tranquillity.
What to pack: Heavy coat or insulated jacket, warm jumpers and thermals, waterproof boots, a hat and gloves, a scarf, a compact umbrella, and smart layers for festive events or evening dining.
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
For most visitors, late spring (May) and early autumn (September) offer the finest overall experience of Southern England. The weather is at its most settled and agreeable, the countryside is at its most beautiful — whether in bloom or in autumn colour — and the crowds and prices are considerably more manageable than in peak summer. Those who enjoy cultural events and the full vibrancy of the English summer will find July equally rewarding, provided they plan ahead. Winter travel suits independent travellers looking for authenticity and value, particularly in the region’s historic cities during the festive season.