Spain: Granada – Spanish Inquisition Museum

March 23, 2020
Granada
0 Comments

🏛️ Nobody Expects the Spanish Inquisition

We were wandering around Granada — a genuinely extraordinary Andalucian city in southern Spain, all Moorish palaces, narrow streets, and the sort of dramatic mountain backdrop that makes you feel vaguely inadequate as a human being — when something rather unexpected caught our eye. A museum. Dedicated entirely to the Spanish Inquisition.

Well, you can imagine. The Monty Python sketch lodged itself immediately and firmly in my brain, as it does for any Englishman of a certain age. Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition. Quite. And yet, here we were, expecting it completely, and paying an entrance fee for the privilege.

The museum was small — compact is probably the charitable word — but what it lacked in square footage it more than made up for in sheer medieval ingenuity. Every corner was filled with torture devices, execution contraptions, and implements of suffering so varied and imaginative that you had to grudgingly admire the effort involved. Notably absent, as any Python fan would clock immediately, were cushions. And comfortable chairs. Not a single one.

What we were looking at were the tools of the Tribunal of the Holy Office of the Inquisition — the Spanish Inquisition, to give it its more memorable name. It was established in 1478 by the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile, the same royal double act responsible for funding Columbus’s voyage to the Americas in 1492. Their original intention, if you can call it that, was to ensure that Jews and Muslims who had converted to Catholicism — known respectively as conversos and moriscos — were doing so genuinely and not just going through the motions to avoid persecution. Unsurprisingly, it didn’t stop there. It expanded steadily into a full-scale effort to purge Spain of anyone deemed insufficiently Catholic, which in practice meant Jews and Muslims altogether.

The Inquisition operated under the authority of the Pope but was controlled by the Spanish Crown, making it a peculiarly political institution dressed up in religious clothing. It spread across Spain and into Spanish colonies in the Americas, operating tribunals in cities including Seville, Toledo, and yes, Granada itself. At its height it was an enormous bureaucratic machine of fear, and for over three and a half centuries it did its grim work.

Remarkably — and this is the bit that really stops you in your tracks — the Spanish Inquisition wasn’t abolished until 1834. Not the Middle Ages. Not even the Enlightenment, really. Queen Isabella II finally signed it into law under a liberal government, ending an institution that had been part of Spanish life for three hundred and fifty-six years. In that time, roughly 150,000 people were formally charged with crimes against the faith. Between 3,000 and 5,000 were executed, though many more died in prison or from the effects of torture.

And then there were the methods. We made our way slowly around the exhibits, reading the placards with the careful attention you give to something you simultaneously want to understand and would quite like to un-know. The creativity on display was, frankly, remarkable — and not in a good way. Medieval Spaniards, it turns out, had a particular fixation with making punishment as humiliating as it was agonising, and a great deal of the equipment was aimed squarely at the genital region. We winced. Repeatedly. My companion and I exchanged the kind of looks that said everything and required no words whatsoever.

It was, all told, a sobering hour or so. Funny how a Monty Python joke can lead you somewhere genuinely dark.

After the Inquisition museum — and frankly, we needed some fresh air — we decided to head up to the Mirador de San Nicolás, widely regarded as the finest viewpoint in Granada. The plan was simple: get up there, photograph the Alhambra, feel smug, come back down. What nobody mentioned was the small matter of getting there.

To reach the Mirador you have to climb through the Albaicín — the oldest district in Granada and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994. It sits on a hill directly opposite the Alhambra, which sounds poetic until you’re actually doing the climbing. The streets are narrow, winding, cobbled, and seem designed by someone with a particular grudge against tourists in their mid-fifties wearing the wrong shoes.

Which is, of course, entirely deliberate. The Albaicín’s labyrinthine layout was a defensive feature — the twisting alleys and dead ends were designed to confuse invaders and slow them down. It worked. We were confused and slowed down considerably, and nobody was even attacking us.

The district’s history stretches back through the Iberians and Romans, though its major expansion came under the Moorish Emirs of Granada from the eleventh century onwards. The Romans, it should be noted, preferred straight streets — wide, logical, built for marching legions. They apparently assumed nobody would dare attack them. History occasionally proved them wrong on that point.

The climb was steep. Punishingly so. In the full heat of a Spanish afternoon we hauled ourselves upward, pausing occasionally to pretend we were admiring the architecture rather than simply gasping for breath.

And then we arrived. The Alhambra sat across the valley in golden afternoon light, its ochre towers rising above the trees, the snow-capped Sierra Nevada floating impossibly behind it. We took far too many photographs and stood there rather longer than planned, saying very little.

Some views do that to you.

The rest of the day was spent “just chilling”, but Karen and I decided to fit in one more cultural experience to end our visit to Granada. Just across from our hotel was a very small theatre specializing in flamenco, called the Casa del Arte, which seated a maximum of 30 people. It made for a very intimate experience! I had seen flamenco a few years back, but it did not prepare me for what I was about to see. The stage was tiny, but they managed to squeeze on a guitarist, a singer and the dancers. The singing I can best describe as frenetic but that would not adequately cover the explosive exuberance of the singer – in fact, it was quite scary the way she contorted her face and expressed saliva in every direction. If the singing was high energy it palled into insignificance compared to the dancing. There were two dancers one lady and one man. The lady entered looking immaculately groomed, but by the end of set her hair was everywhere and she was dripping with sweat and our ears were ringing from the loud stomping of her feet on the stage. We had a short guitar interlude before the male dancer pounced on us. Flamenco is a rhythmic dance, but the movements are rapid and sharp, and if I tried it I would probably pull every muscle in my body. They must have been exhausted after they had finished the performance. By the time it was all over we were worn-out and shell-shocked – it was difficult to say whether it had been enjoyable, but we were glad we had done it.

About Palacio de los Olvidados

📍 Location

Granada sits in the south of Spain, in the autonomous community of Andalusia, nestled in a fertile plain (the Vega de Granada) at the confluence of four rivers. The Sierra Nevada mountains rise dramatically to the south and east, their peaks snow-capped for much of the year, while the city itself occupies a series of hills that give it a distinctive, layered skyline. It lies approximately 130 km east of Málaga, 250 km from Seville, and around 420 km south of Madrid.

The city’s historic core clusters around three great hills: the Alhambra to the south-east, the Albayzín to the north, and Sacromonte further east. The modern city spreads below in the flat streets around the cathedral and the Gran Vía de Colón. It is a relatively compact city, which makes exploring on foot both practical and rewarding.

✈️ Getting There

By Air

Granada’s own airport — Aeropuerto Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén (GRX) — is located around 17 km west of the city centre. Direct flights operate from various European cities, including London and Manchester via easyJet, as well as Paris and other destinations via Vueling. Domestically, there are regular connections from Madrid and Barcelona.

Many visitors choose to fly into Málaga Airport, which has far more international connections and is only around 90 minutes away by road or bus. Direct bus services run from Málaga Airport to Granada’s bus station, taking approximately two and a quarter hours, making it a straightforward and affordable transfer option.

By Train

Since 2019, Granada has been connected to Spain’s high-speed AVE rail network. Trains run from Madrid in around three and a half hours, and from Seville, Córdoba, and Málaga in varying times. Granada’s train station sits conveniently close to the city centre. Tickets are sold through Renfe and the competing operator Ouigo, and booking in advance is recommended as tickets are not always released far ahead of travel.

By Coach

Long-distance coach travel in Spain is comfortable, affordable, and well-organised. The main operator is ALSA, running frequent services from Madrid (roughly five hours), Málaga (around one and a half to two hours), Seville, Córdoba, and many other cities. The bus station is located around 3 km from the city centre, with local buses connecting it to the centre.

By Car

Granada is well connected by motorway to the rest of Andalusia and Spain. Driving gives you the freedom to explore the surrounding province, including the villages of Las Alpujarras and the Sierra Nevada. However, once in the city, a car is more hindrance than help. The historic neighbourhoods have extremely narrow streets, parking is scarce and heavily regulated, and much of the old town is pedestrianised. It is strongly advisable to park on arrival and get around on foot or by public transport during your stay.

🚌 Getting Around

On Foot

The most enjoyable — and often the only practical — way to explore Granada is to walk. The historic centre, the cathedral quarter, the Albayzín, and Sacromonte are all most rewarding when explored at a leisurely pace on foot. Be prepared for hills; the Albayzín in particular involves steep, cobbled streets that can be tiring but are always scenic. Comfortable, sturdy footwear is not just recommended — it is essential.

By Bus

The city has a reliable urban bus network operated by the Rober company. A rechargeable Credibus card purchased from bus drivers offers discounted fares compared to paying per journey. Particularly useful for visitors are the small minibuses — lines C1, C2, and C3 — that navigate the narrow streets of the Albayzín, running from Plaza Nueva up through the quarter and back.

By Taxi

Taxis are metered and reasonably priced. A journey across the city from one end to the other typically costs between €15 and €20. Taxis are readily available at stands throughout the city centre and at major transport hubs.

By Metro

Granada has a single tram-metro line running roughly north to south through the city, connecting outer districts to the centre. It is of limited use for tourists focused on the historic neighbourhoods, but can be handy for reaching the bus or train station.

Planning Your Visit to Granada

📍 Location

✈️ Getting There

By Air

By Train

By Coach

By Car

🚌 Getting Around

On Foot

By Bus

By Taxi

By Metro

Best time to visit Andalucía

Andalucía is Spain’s most sun-drenched region, stretching across the country’s deep south from the Atlantic coast to the Mediterranean. Home to the Alhambra, whitewashed hilltop villages, sherry bodegas, and some of Europe’s most dramatic landscapes, it is a destination that works in almost every season — though some times of year suit certain travellers far better than others.

🌸 Spring (March to May)

Spring is widely regarded as the finest time to visit Andalucía, and it is easy to understand why. After the winter rains, the landscape transforms into a patchwork of wildflowers, almond blossom, and vivid greenery. Temperatures are pleasantly warm — typically between 16°C and 24°C — making sightseeing comfortable and evenings mild enough to sit outdoors with a glass of Manzanilla.

March can still bring some rain, particularly in the mountains of the Sierra Nevada and the Coto Doñana wetlands, but by April the weather has generally settled into long, sunny days. This is also the season of Andalucía’s greatest cultural events. Semana Santa (Holy Week) transforms cities such as Seville, Málaga, Córdoba, and Granada with extraordinarily moving religious processions, and the Feria de Abril in Seville — held two weeks after Easter — is one of Spain’s most spectacular popular celebrations, a riot of flamenco dresses, horse-drawn carriages, and late-night dancing.

The famous Córdoba Patio Festival takes place in May, when the city’s private courtyards open their doors to reveal astonishing displays of geraniums, jasmine, and roses tumbling over ancient walls. Queues at the Alhambra and other major monuments are considerably shorter than in summer, and hotel prices remain reasonable outside the Easter period.

What to pack: Lightweight layers for daytime and a light jacket or cardigan for evenings, comfortable walking shoes, a small umbrella for early spring showers, sunscreen, sunglasses, and smart-casual clothes if you plan to attend any festivals or restaurants.

☀️ Summer (June to August)

Summer in Andalucía is an experience unlike almost anywhere else in Europe. Seville regularly records the highest temperatures on the continent, with July and August frequently pushing above 40°C in the city centre. Córdoba and Jerez are similarly fierce. Even the coastal towns of Málaga, Cádiz, and Almería, which benefit from sea breezes, can feel intensely hot.

That said, summer has its devotees. The beaches of the Costa de la Luz, battered by Atlantic winds, remain far cooler and less overcrowded than those of the Costa del Sol, and the water is clean and invigorating. The Doñana National Park and the beaches around Tarifa attract kite-surfers and water sports enthusiasts. Granada sits at higher altitude than the lowland cities and is somewhat more bearable, and the Sierra Nevada remains a cool refuge for hikers.

If you do visit in summer, adopt the local rhythm without hesitation: do your sightseeing early in the morning, retreat indoors during the midday heat from roughly noon to 5pm, and reemerge in the late afternoon and evening when the temperature drops and the streets fill with life. Avoid booking hotels without air conditioning. Book the Alhambra tickets many weeks in advance as summer slots sell out rapidly. Summer also brings Andalucía’s open-air music festivals and vibrant nightlife, which can be very appealing for younger travellers.

What to pack: Very light, breathable linen or cotton clothing, a wide-brimmed hat, high-factor sunscreen (SPF 50), a reusable water bottle, quality sunglasses, light sandals as well as closed shoes for walking on hot pavements, and a small portable fan. A compact light layer is useful for heavily air-conditioned restaurants and museums.

🍂 Autumn (September to November)

Autumn rivals spring as the best time of year to visit. September is particularly outstanding: the oppressive summer heat has broken, temperatures settle into a very comfortable range of 22°C to 28°C, the crowds thin noticeably as families return home from holiday, and the landscape takes on a warm, golden light. The sea remains warm enough for swimming well into October along the Mediterranean coast, making it an ideal time for those who want beach and culture in equal measure.

October brings the grape harvest across the sherry triangle — Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María — and the atmosphere in the bodegas is festive and welcoming to visitors. The Almería region, famous for its extraordinary film locations in the Tabernas Desert (the setting for many spaghetti westerns), is at its most photogenic in the soft autumn light. Rainfall increases through November, and while the Sierra Nevada receives its first snow at altitude, the valleys and coasts remain mild and pleasant.

Hotel prices drop significantly after the end of August, making autumn excellent value. Queues at major monuments are shorter, restaurant reservations easier to secure, and the pace of the entire region relaxes into something altogether more agreeable.

What to pack: A mix of warm-weather clothes and a mid-layer fleece or light jacket for evenings, particularly in October and November. Comfortable walking shoes and a waterproof layer for November showers. Sunscreen remains necessary through September and into October. A swim kit for the first half of autumn.

❄️ Winter (December to February)

Andalucía’s winters are mild by Northern European standards and can be quietly wonderful for a certain type of traveller. Daytime temperatures in the lowland cities hover between 12°C and 17°C — cold enough to require a coat, but warm enough to sit in a sunny plaza with a coffee at midday. Rainfall arrives in short, sharp bursts and rarely persists for days on end.

The great monuments — the Alhambra, the Mezquita in Córdoba, the Alcázar of Seville — are virtually crowd-free, and you can take your time without feeling rushed or jostled. Accommodation prices drop to their lowest, and the locals reclaim their cities, giving the whole region an authentic, unhurried atmosphere that is impossible to find in summer.

The Sierra Nevada is in full ski season from December through to March, with Pradollano ski resort offering surprisingly good conditions and the novelty of being the most southerly ski resort in Europe. The Sierra Nevada’s slopes are within day-trip reach of Granada, making it uniquely possible to ski in the morning and visit the Alhambra in the afternoon. Cádiz celebrates its extraordinary carnival in February — a satirical, anarchic, and highly musical festival that is one of the most distinctive events in the Spanish calendar.

What to pack: A warm coat, scarves, and layers, as evenings can be genuinely cold, particularly in Granada and Ronda. Waterproof footwear is useful. Ski gear if visiting the Sierra Nevada (or hire it locally). Smart-casual clothes for evenings out, as Andalucían restaurants tend to dress up slightly even in winter.

Seasonal Summary Table

🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit

For most travellers, late March through to May and September through to mid-October represent the ideal windows for visiting Andalucía. During these shoulder seasons, the weather is warm without being brutal, the landscapes are beautiful, the monuments are accessible without exhausting queues, and the price-to-experience ratio is at its most compelling. Spring adds the extraordinary bonus of the region’s greatest festivals and its most colourful landscapes; autumn adds warm seas, harvest celebrations, and golden light. If you are visiting primarily for culture and walking, almost any season outside the height of summer will serve you well — but if you want sunshine, comfortable sightseeing, and the full breadth of what Andalucía has to offer, book your trip for April, May, or September, and you are unlikely to be disappointed.

Where to stay in Granada

1. Hotel Palacio de Santa Paula

The Hotel Palacio de Santa Paula sits on Granada’s Gran Vía de Colón, right in the historic centre and within easy walking distance of the cathedral and Plaza Nueva. The building has a genuinely interesting past — it incorporates a 14th-century Moorish house and a 16th-century convent, both now declared artistic and historic monuments. The conversion into a hotel was completed in 2001, with a full renovation carried out in 2023. It has 72 rooms, a gym, sauna, and Turkish bath, and the restaurant, El Claustro, occupies the former convent refectory beside the original cloisters. It is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection. The Alhambra is roughly ten minutes away by taxi. Rooms start at around €300 per night, depending on season.

The hotel is a protected building, which retains features from the past, mixed with luxury modern facilities. It has a gym, sauna and Turkish bath.

2. Hotel Casa 1800 Granada

Hotel Casa 1800 Granada is a boutique hotel housed in the Casa de los Migueletes, a 16th-century building in the historic centre of Granada, close to the Cathedral and a short walk from the Alhambra. The building has been carefully restored and retains many of its original features, including coffered ceilings, Mudéjar detailing, and decorative frescoes. The hotel has around 32 rooms, each individually decorated and well equipped with minibars, Egyptian cotton bedding, and good bathrooms. Some rooms have views of the Alhambra. The hotel is organised around a central courtyard where breakfast is served each morning and complimentary afternoon tea is offered daily — a small but appreciated touch. Staff consistently receive positive mentions from guests. It is a solid choice for anyone wanting a characterful base in central Granada.

3. ECO Hostel & Coworking

ECO Hostel & Coworking sits in a renovated Modernist building from 1900 on Gran Vía de Colón, right in the centre of Granada. It works well for both travellers and remote workers — hostel guests get free access to the coworking space, while drop-ins can buy day passes from around €8. The building has been thoughtfully restored using original materials — doors, bricks and timber — repurposed as part of the décor. Rooms range from shared dorms to private options, and the common areas across four floors include a kitchen, living room, café, cinema room and a rooftop terrace with views over the Albaicín. The hostel runs evening activities most nights, from paella sessions to walking tours, and the coworking side offers 1Gb fibre Wi-Fi, flexible desks, printing and a Zoom booth for private calls.

Spain: Granada – Spanish Inquisition Museum

🏛️ Nobody Expects the Spanish Inquisition

📍 Location

✈️ Getting There

🚌 Getting Around

📍 Location

✈️ Getting There

🚌 Getting Around

🌸 Spring (March to May)

☀️ Summer (June to August)

🍂 Autumn (September to November)

❄️ Winter (December to February)

Seasonal Summary Table

🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit

Like this:

Related

🏛️ Nobody Expects the Spanish Inquisition

📍 Location

✈️ Getting There

🚌 Getting Around

📍 Location

✈️ Getting There

🚌 Getting Around

🌸 Spring (March to May)

☀️ Summer (June to August)

🍂 Autumn (September to November)

❄️ Winter (December to February)

Seasonal Summary Table

🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit

Like this:

Related

More to Explore

Discover more from Hoblets On The Go