skip to Main Content

Netherlands: Amsterdam – The Canal Ring

🌊 Amsterdam and Its Canals — The Venice of the North (Sort Of)

Amsterdam is, by any measure, a city that really went to town on the whole water thing. We’re talking more than 100 kilometres of grachten — that’s canals, for those of us who didn’t pay attention in Dutch class — along with roughly 90 islands and some 1,500 bridges. Yes, 1,500. Which is about 1,499 more than most cities have any business building.

All this, inevitably, draws comparisons to Venice. And yes, Amsterdam has been saddled with the nickname “Venice of the North” for so long that it’s practically on the tourist maps in 72-point bold. It’s not an entirely unfair comparison, but the two cities are quite different in character. Venice feels like a slightly damp, slightly crumbling operatic stage set where everything costs twice what it should. Amsterdam, by contrast, feels like a functioning, no-nonsense city that happens to have a lot of water running through it. And bicycles. An absolutely terrifying number of bicycles.

🚢 The Tourism Problem — Sound Familiar?

Like Venice, Amsterdam has had to wrestle with the modern plague of mass tourism. And much like Venice, it hasn’t entirely worked out what to do about it. To be fair, Amsterdam has at least been spared the indignity of vast cruise ships waddling into the city centre and disgorging several thousand passengers clutching selfie sticks and looking for somewhere to buy a waffle. The cruise ships, mercifully, dock well away from the historic heart of the city.

The local politicians, to their credit, have actually started doing something about the problem rather than just wringing their hands and writing strongly-worded reports. Some of the measures have been quite sensible — banning new hotel rooms in the city centre, for instance, and clamping down on Airbnb rentals that were turning whole neighbourhoods into holiday lets and pushing locals out. Other moves have been, shall we say, a little more theatrical. Moving the famous “I Amsterdam” sign — those big red letters that every visitor felt compelled to photograph themselves clambering over — was one such gesture. The sign spent years outside the Rijksmuseum before being packed off in 2018 amid concerns that it was encouraging exactly the sort of overcrowded selfie-taking that the city was trying to discourage. Whether removing a large sign genuinely changes behaviour is, of course, another matter entirely, but at least someone was trying.

🏛️ The Grachtengordel — Where the Real History Lives

Anyway. Back to the canals themselves, which are really rather magnificent if you manage to look past the tourist boats and the cyclists trying to run you over.

The three great canals of Amsterdam — the Herengracht, the Prinsengracht, and the Keizersgracht — were dug during the 17th century, at the height of what the Dutch somewhat immodestly, but not entirely inaccurately, call the Dutch Golden Age. This was the period, roughly from the 1580s to the 1670s, when the Netherlands was the most powerful trading nation in the world, Amsterdam was its commercial heart, and Dutch merchants were making extraordinary amounts of money shipping spices, textiles, and all manner of goods across the globe.

They spent some of that money rather well. The three canals were laid out in concentric semicircles around the old city centre — an early example of urban planning that was, by the standards of the day, genuinely visionary. Together, they form what is known as the Grachtengordel, or canal ring, and they remain one of the most coherent and beautiful examples of planned urban expansion from that entire era anywhere in Europe. Lining the canals are some 1,550 monumental buildings — the tall, narrow merchant houses with their distinctive gabled façades that you’ll have seen on approximately every postcard Amsterdam has ever produced. They look improbably elegant and, given that they were built on wooden piles sunk into soft, waterlogged ground, also improbably still standing.

The Prinsengracht — Prince’s Canal — is perhaps the most famous of the three, not least because it’s home to the Anne Frank House, where the Frank family hid for more than two years during the German occupation in the Second World War, and which now receives around 1.2 million visitors a year. The Keizersgracht, or Emperor’s Canal, is generally considered the grandest of the three, lined with some of the most imposing merchant houses. The Herengracht — Gentlemen’s Canal — runs alongside some of Amsterdam’s finest 17th-century architecture, including the stretch known as the Golden Bend, where the wealthiest merchants built their most extravagant homes.

Also included in all this is the Jordaan, a neighbourhood just to the west of the canal ring that began as a working-class district in the 17th century, crammed with craftsmen, dyers, and tanners who probably didn’t smell wonderful, and has since transformed itself into one of Amsterdam’s most desirable and fashionable areas. These things happen.

🏆 UNESCO Recognition — Well Deserved, Actually

In 2010, the 17th-century canal ring — including the Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht, Herengracht, and the Jordaan — was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was, for once, a piece of international recognition that felt entirely warranted. The canal ring is not merely pretty; it represents a remarkable chapter in European urban, commercial, and architectural history, laid out with extraordinary ambition at a time when Amsterdam was genuinely one of the most important cities on earth.

It’s still rather good, as it happens.

A typcial scene of bicycles and canals in Amsterdam, The Netherlands
The iconic scene of bicycles, flowers and canals in Amsterdam, Netherlands
A boat being taken over by vegetation - Amsterdam, The Netherland
A boat overtaken by vegetation

🚤 Those Dam Boat Guys — A Canal Tour Worth Every Cent

One of the best ways to explore central Amsterdam — and by bike is even better, if your knees are up to it — is aboard a boat. When we sat down to plan the trip, I thought carefully about what I actually wanted from a canal tour. The most important thing, I decided, was to be on a small boat with a more personal experience rather than being herded onto some floating double-decker with three hundred other tourists all pointing their phones at the same bridge. After a bit of research, I came across a company that seemed to fit the bill rather nicely.

Those Dam Boat Guys — the name alone tickled me, I’ll admit — operate a number of small, intimate boats on Amsterdam’s famous canal network. Taking a look at their website, which is a genuine hoot, and reading through the reviews, I was fairly quickly convinced. Booked.

📍 Meeting Point: The Wester Café

The tours meet at the Wester Café, which sits right across the canal from the Anne Frank House on the Prinsengracht — so it is genuinely easy to find, even for those of us who can get lost in a Tesco car park. The Anne Frank House itself, for a bit of historical context, is the preserved canal-side building where Anne Frank and her family hid from the Nazi occupiers for over two years between 1942 and 1944. It is now one of Amsterdam’s most visited museums, drawing around 1.2 million visitors a year, which rather tells you something about its location in the heart of the old city. The Wester Café itself is a lively, welcoming spot — a great place to have a coffee or a beer before or after the tour. We did both, obviously.

🛶 Boarding the Boat

The boats are launched from a quieter adjacent canal, so we were met at the café and led round to the starting point on foot. There were eight of us in our group — which is roughly the capacity of the boat — and as we walked, we were treated to the rather entertaining spectacle of the enormous tourist cruise boats lumbering out of the same general area. They are absolutely vast compared to the scale of the canals, which date back to Amsterdam’s Golden Age in the 17th century when the city’s canal ring — the Grachtengordel — was purpose-built for trade and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I would have hated to be on one of those great hulking things. And as we were to discover later in the tour, because of their sheer bulk, there are places on the canal network these large vessels simply cannot reach — spots that a nimble little boat like ours could slip into without any bother.

⚓ Our Skipper and the 90-Minute Tour

We climbed aboard our small, ten-person, eco-friendly electric boat — the Municipality of Amsterdam has been requiring all vessels on the canals to be electric by 2025, which, frankly, is the sort of sensible policy that makes you briefly wonder why we can’t manage similar things back home — and were introduced to our skipper for the ninety-minute tour. Sadly, I cannot recall his name, because remembering names has always been something of a personal failing and I have made my peace with it. What I do remember is that he had a soft Irish brogue and a wicked sense of humour. The tours Those Dam Boat Guys run are genuinely different from the standard canal experience. The whole thing is very intimate, and the skipper kept us engaged with interesting, often genuinely witty commentary throughout.

🏡 Backwaters, Gabled Houses and Eye-Watering Houseboats

It was wonderfully relaxing to glide quietly through the backwaters of Amsterdam’s canal system, slipping past the tall, narrow, beautifully gabled canal houses that have lined these waterways since the 17th century. Many of them lean slightly forward — deliberately, as it turns out, so that goods could be hoisted up to the upper floors by pulley without banging against the façade. You notice these things when someone explains them to you. We also drifted past the houseboats moored along the canal sides, which brought us to one of the more sobering facts of the tour.

Amsterdam, we learned, has become a very expensive city in which to live — and that is particularly true if you happen to own a houseboat. There are apparently houseboats on these canals that will set you back a million euros or more. Which sounds extraordinary until you understand that a significant part of that cost is not the boat itself, but the dock space — the mooring permit — which in a prime location is worth an absolute fortune. So you are essentially buying a very cramped, slightly damp flat that occasionally rocks when a larger boat goes past. Still, the views are rather good.

A delightful houseboat in Jordaan, Amsterdam
A delightful houseboat in Jordaan
The houseboats come in all shapes and sizes -Amsterdam canals
The houseboats come in all shapes and sizes
We particularly loved this houseboat - Amsterdam canals, the Netherlands
We particularly loved this houseboat
This is the best place to see Amsterdam from
This is the best place to see Amsterdam from
I could live in the houseboat for sure - Amsterdam, The Netherlands
I could live in the houseboat for sure

🏠 Tall, Narrow and Leaning at a Rather Worrying Angle

Space in Amsterdam has always been at a premium, and the city’s builders responded to that constraint in the most logical way possible — they built upwards. The canal houses that line the grachtengordel are famously tall and narrow, squeezed together like books on a shelf, each one jostling for a few precious metres of canal frontage. The reason for this was money, naturally. Back in the 17th century, properties in Amsterdam were taxed on their width, not their height — so the narrower you built, the less you paid. The result is one of the most distinctive urban streetscapes in Europe, and, for the people who had to actually live in these places, quite possibly the most inconvenient.

📐 The World’s Most Optimistic Tea Room

The narrowest example of all is believed to stand on Oude Hoogstraat, in the old heart of the city. It measures a genuinely minuscule 2.02 metres wide and only 5 metres deep — which is roughly the size of a decent garden shed, if your garden shed had multiple floors and was worth considerably more. There is just one small room on each floor, which must have made daily life spectacularly impractical. Getting a sofa up the stairs would have been out of the question. Getting yourself up the stairs probably required a degree of spatial awareness most of us simply don’t possess.

Today, the building has found a rather charming second life as what is advertised as the smallest tea room in Amsterdam, which I thought was either a brilliant piece of marketing or a sign of genuinely impressive optimism. Almost certainly both.

↗️ Why Half the City Is Quietly Falling Over

Then there is the small matter of the foundations. As you might reasonably suspect in a city built on what is essentially a very large, very wet bog, the ground beneath Amsterdam is not what you would call reassuringly solid. The city sits on layers of soft peat and clay, and the older buildings were constructed on wooden piles driven down into the earth — in some cases, thousands of them per building. The Rijksmuseum, to give you a sense of the scale of the operation, stands on around 2,000 wooden piles. When those piles dry out or rot, which they do, things start to shift.

The result is that a number of Amsterdam’s older buildings visibly tilt. Not dramatically, not dangerously — well, mostly not dangerously — but you can see it clearly if you stand back and look along a row of canal houses. Some lean forward, some lean sideways, some appear to be holding a quiet conversation with the building next door. And that, as it turns out, is rather the point. It is only because these houses are packed so tightly against one another, offering mutual support like a group of friends propping each other up after a long evening, that they stay upright at all. Without their neighbours, a good number of them would simply topple into the canal. Which would, admittedly, be quite the sight.

🏛️ Reading the Gables Like a History Book

Many of Amsterdam’s older buildings are topped with decorative gables, and once you know what you are looking at, they become genuinely fascinating. A gable, for those who skipped that particular architecture lesson at school — and I would assume that is most of us — is the triangular or shaped section of wall sitting between the sloping edges of a roof. On Amsterdam’s tall, elegant canal houses, they are the crowning feature at the very top of the facade, and they serve both an aesthetic purpose and a very practical one.

Built into many of these gables are winches — sturdy iron hooks and pulley systems that were used, and in many cases still are used, to haul heavy or bulky items up to the upper floors. Given that the staircases inside these houses are notoriously steep and narrow — some are barely wider than a ladder — this was not an optional luxury but a genuine necessity. Even today you will occasionally look up to see a sofa or a wardrobe swinging cheerfully above the pavement while the removal men below get on with their lunch.

What is particularly pleasing about the gables is that their design changed with fashion over the course of four centuries, meaning that a well-informed glance at the top of a building can give you a reasonable idea of when it was built. The earliest gables, from the late 16th and early 17th centuries, tended to be simple stepped designs — the trapgevel — practical and straightforward, very much in keeping with the no-nonsense mercantile spirit of the age. As the city grew wealthier through the Golden Age of the 1600s, gables became more elaborate and ornate, evolving into the spout gable (spitsgevel), the neck gable (halsgevel) and eventually the bell gable (klokgevel), each style reflecting the architectural fashions and the prosperity of its era. By the 18th century, classical influences from France and Italy had crept in, bringing with them cornices, pilasters and a general air of trying rather too hard.

So there you have it. The next time you find yourself drifting along an Amsterdam canal staring up at a row of ancient buildings, you are not just looking at pretty houses. You are reading four hundred years of history, one gable at a time.

The beautiful houses of Amsterdam - The Netherlands
The beautiful houses of Amsterdam
The houses are literally holding each other up - Amsterdam, The Netherlands
The houses are literally holding each other up as they collapse under their own weight
Amsterdam's houses are beautiful but you'd have to like climbing stairs! - The Netherlands
Amsterdam's houses are beautiful but you'd have to like climbing stairs
The houses along the canals of Amsterdam are very narrow - The Netherlands
The houses along the canals of Amsterdam are very narrow

🌉 Bridges That Actually Do Something

As well as the quaint smaller canals that wind through the popular residential district of the Jordaan — a neighbourhood that began life in the early 17th century as a working-class quarter housing immigrant craftsmen and labourers, and has since gentrified itself into one of the most desirable addresses in the city — there are, of course, considerably larger canals through which some impressively substantial boats make their way into the heart of Amsterdam.

The Jordaan itself, for what it’s worth, takes its name most likely from the French word jardin, meaning garden, since many of the streets and canals in the area were named after flowers and plants when the district was laid out around 1612. It is the sort of place where you pay nine euros for a coffee and feel oddly grateful for the experience.

But back to the bridges. Amsterdam has somewhere in the region of 1,500 bridges spanning its canals — more than Venice, a fact the Dutch will mention if you give them half a chance — and a good number of those crossing the larger waterways are what are called bascule bridges, or in Dutch, basculebrug. These are counterweighted lifting bridges, the same basic engineering principle that gives us Tower Bridge in London, though considerably less dramatic in presentation and without the gift shop.

When a vessel of any meaningful size needs to pass through, the bridge simply lifts — the two halves rising on their counterweights while traffic, cyclists and pedestrians wait with varying degrees of patience on either side. Given that Amsterdam has approximately 900,000 bicycles and what feels like roughly the same number of cyclists who believe traffic lights are merely a suggestion, the bridge-lifting process can produce some entertainingly chaotic scenes on the canal banks.

It is, when you think about it, a rather elegant solution to a very old problem — how do you build a city on water and still let the boats in? The Dutch, who have been managing water more creatively than anyone else on earth for the best part of a thousand years, have clearly given it some thought.

Many of the bridges of Amsterdam lift to allow taller boast to pass - The Netherlands
Many of the bridges of Amsterdam lift to allow taller boast to pass

In summary …

  • There are many boat tours available in Amsterdam but if you like something more intimate take a small boat tour!
  • The weather of the Netherlands is quite unpredictable and the boat tours run rain or shine. The small boat tours are uncovered so taking a raincoat is sensible
  • The best way to see Amsterdam is from the canals so we highly recommend taking a boat tour of some kind.

Planning your Amsterdam boat tour

📍 Finding the Meeting Point — Across from a Piece of History

The tours meet at the Wester Café, which sits on the Prinsengracht canal directly opposite the Anne Frank House — where Anne and her family hid from the Nazi occupation for over two years from July 1942 until their arrest in August 1944. There’s usually a queue snaking along the canal outside, which puts things into a certain perspective when you’re standing there debating whether to have a second coffee.

The café itself is a thoroughly cheerful spot — a proper Amsterdam bruine kroeg, all warm lighting and lived-in atmosphere. It’s a great place to park yourself before the tour or decompress afterwards with a coffee or a beer.


📋 Useful Information

  • Location: Wester Café, Prinsengracht 283, 1016 GV Amsterdam — opposite the Anne Frank House
  • Website: www.thosedamboatguys.com
  • Telephone: Check the website for current contact details
  • Opening Hours: Tours run seasonally — check the website for schedules
  • Entry Fees: Prices vary by tour — see the website for current pricing and booking

Vegan friendly dining in Amsterdam

Amsterdam has quietly become one of Europe’s most exciting cities for plant-based food. From no-frills junk food joints to elegant fine dining, the city’s vegan scene caters to every taste and budget. Below are some of the most celebrated spots the city has to offer.


🍔 Vegan Junk Food Bar

One of Amsterdam’s most iconic plant-based destinations, Vegan Junk Food Bar was founded by Edwin Streep after he turned vegan and noticed a distinct lack of indulgent options in the city. The menu is a love letter to classic comfort food — think towering stacked burgers, loaded fries, hot dogs, vegan bitterballen, chickpea fries, and soft-serve ice cream, all in eye-popping colours and surrounded by bold street art. Non-vegans are just as enthusiastic about the food as committed plant-eaters, and the lively atmosphere makes it a firm favourite for a casual, fun night out.

  • Location: Marie Heinekenplein 9–10, De Pijp, Amsterdam
  • Website: veganjunkfoodbar.com
  • Phone: +31 6 18955002
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday–Thursday: 12:00–23:00
    • Friday–Saturday: 12:00–00:00
    • Sunday: 12:00–23:00

🌿 Bonboon

Tucked inside the elegant Hotel Mercier in the heart of the Jordaan district, Bonboon is Amsterdam’s premier vegan fine-dining experience. Founded by Daphne Althoff, the restaurant is driven by a genuine passion for animals and plant-based cuisine. The set menu — available as three, four, or five courses — changes every six to eight weeks to reflect the seasons and showcases inventive, beautifully presented dishes drawing on global culinary traditions. Optional wine or alcohol-free tea pairings make each visit feel like a proper occasion. The interior is all velvet textures, Art Deco touches, and curated artwork. Advance booking is strongly recommended.

  • Location: Rozenstraat 12, Jordaan, Amsterdam
  • Website: bonboon.nl
  • Phone: +31 (0)20 8 100 945
  • Opening Hours:
    • Wednesday–Sunday: 18:00–23:00
    • Monday–Tuesday: Closed

🥗 Meatless District

Born out of a crowdfunding campaign and originally inspired by New York’s Meatpacking District, Meatless District has grown into one of Amsterdam’s most celebrated fully vegan restaurants. The kitchen roasts, smokes, and grills its way through a seasonal menu of creative plant-based plates — from oyster mushroom “scallops” and watermelon “sashimi” to a lion’s mane steak and house-made kimchi. The spacious, dog-friendly interior is a rarity in Amsterdam, and the cocktail list is entirely vegan too. Weekend lunches are also on offer, making it a versatile choice throughout the day.

  • Location: Bilderdijkstraat 65–67, Oud-West, Amsterdam
  • Website: meatlessdistrict.nl
  • Phone: +31 (0)20 7220804
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday: 17:30–22:00
    • Tuesday: Closed
    • Wednesday–Thursday: 17:30–22:00
    • Friday–Saturday: 12:00–16:00 & 17:30–23:00
    • Sunday: 12:00–16:00 & 17:30–22:00

🫙 SOIL Vegan Café (West)

SOIL was born from a friendship formed in San Francisco, where co-founders Gustavo Bottino and Remco Groeneveld were inspired by the city’s strong local food culture. Opening in Amsterdam’s Oud-West neighbourhood in 2018, the café became known for its no-nonsense approach to plant-based comfort food. The menu combines flavours from East Asia and the Americas — think peanut butter curry bowls, kimchi burgers, Ben Ben noodles, and house-fermented pickles. Everything is made from scratch with whole, unprocessed ingredients, and there’s an excellent selection of artisanal beers and natural wines. Card payments only; no cash accepted.

  • Location: Bilderdijkstraat 141-H, Oud-West, Amsterdam
  • Website: soilvegancafe.com
  • Phone: +31 6 15826845
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday–Saturday: 12:00–22:00
    • Sunday: 12:00–21:00

☕ Koffie ende Koeck

A beloved neighbourhood institution since 2014, Koffie ende Koeck is a cosy, fully vegan bakery-café tucked along Haarlemmerweg, directly opposite the Westergas cultural complex. The name — meaning “Coffee and Cake” in old Dutch — sets the scene perfectly. The menu is built around exceptional patisserie: cinnamon rolls, muffins, brownies, and daily changing cakes sit alongside proper sandwiches, yoghurt breakfasts, seasonal salads, and quiche. Specialty coffees come with a choice of plant-based milks, and high tea is available on request with a reservation. The ingredients are as sustainable as possible — vegan, kosher, and largely organic. Card payments only; no cash.

  • Location: Haarlemmerweg 175, Westerpark, Amsterdam
  • Website: koffieendekoeck.nl
  • Phone: +31 20 737 2731
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday: Closed
    • Tuesday–Friday: 09:30–17:30
    • Saturday: 10:00–17:00
    • Sunday: Closed

🍱 TerraZen Centre

One of the oldest vegan restaurants in Amsterdam, TerraZen Centre has been serving plant-based food since 1973. Owners Izaba and Tomomi — a married couple who lived in Tokyo for 25 years — blend their Japanese and Jamaican heritage into a menu that is genuinely unlike anything else in the city. Housed in a small, warmly decorated space just a short stroll from Amsterdam Centraal, the restaurant offers dishes such as crispy roti wraps, tonkatsu bowls, tempeh sushi rolls, Japanese pancakes, and changing vegan cheesecakes. The reggae soundtrack and hand-painted walls give it an unmistakable, laid-back soul. Cash only — no card payments.

  • Location: Sint Jacobsstraat 19HS, Centrum, Amsterdam
  • Website: terrazencentre.com
  • Phone: +31 6 85313689
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday: 13:00–15:00 & 17:00–22:00
    • Tuesday: Closed
    • Wednesday: 12:00–15:00 & 17:00–22:00
    • Thursday: 13:00–15:00 & 17:00–22:00
    • Friday: 12:00–15:00 & 17:00–22:00
    • Saturday–Sunday: 13:00–15:00 & 17:00–22:00

Best time to visit Amsterdam

Amsterdam is a city of ever-changing moods — canal light shifting with the seasons, café terraces filling and emptying, tulip fields blazing to life and then fading. There is no single “wrong” time to go, but each season offers a markedly different experience. Here is a season-by-season breakdown to help you plan the perfect trip.


🌸 Spring (March to May)

Spring is widely regarded as one of the finest times to visit Amsterdam. Temperatures climb steadily from around 5°C in early March to a comfortable 17°C by the end of May, and the days grow noticeably longer with each passing week. The city shakes off its winter quietness and steps into the open air with a kind of collective relief.

The star attraction of spring is, without question, the tulips. The Keukenhof Gardens — just a short bus or train ride from the city — erupt into one of the world’s most spectacular floral displays, typically open from late March through to mid-May. Closer to the city, the Bollenstreek flower route threads through the bulb fields of South Holland, and even the canal-side flower market on the Singel puts on a show. King’s Day on the 27th of April is the social highlight of the calendar: the whole city dresses in orange, outdoor markets spring up everywhere, and live music drifts across the canals. It is a joyful, very Dutch celebration that is well worth planning around.

Crowds in March and early April are noticeably lighter than in high summer, and hotel prices have not yet reached their peak, making this an ideal window for those who want both value and atmosphere. By May, visitor numbers begin to climb in earnest, though the city still feels manageable compared to July and August.

What to pack: Lightweight layers (temperatures can vary widely within a single day), a compact waterproof jacket or raincoat (essential at all times of year in Amsterdam), a mid-layer fleece or light jumper, comfortable waterproof walking shoes, a small fold-up umbrella, and sunglasses for the brighter days in May. In March, add a warm hat and gloves for the cooler mornings and evenings.


☀️ Summer (June to August)

Summer is Amsterdam’s peak season, and for good reason. Temperatures hover between 20°C and 22°C, daylight stretches well past nine o’clock in the evening in June and July, and the city hums with an infectious energy. The canal terraces are packed, Vondelpark fills with locals lounging on the grass, and cycling through the streets feels entirely natural rather than a novelty.

The cultural and festival calendar is at its busiest. The Milkshake Festival, the Grachtenfestival (a classical music festival staged on the canals), Amsterdam Pride — one of the world’s most celebrated — and a host of open-air cinema and music events fill the weeks from June through to August. Canal cruises are at their most enjoyable in the long summer evenings, and day trips to the North Sea beach at Zandvoort are popular with both locals and visitors.

The trade-offs are real, however. Queues at major museums such as the Anne Frank House, the Rijksmuseum, and the Van Gogh Museum can be substantial, and advance booking is strongly advised. Accommodation prices are at their highest, and the city centre can feel very crowded, particularly at weekends. August sees many Amsterdammers head out of the city on their own holidays, which can take some of the local flavour out of the streets, though tourist numbers remain high.

What to pack: Lightweight clothing including T-shirts, summer dresses or shorts, and a light linen shirt or blouse for evenings. Despite the warmth, a compact rain jacket or windproof layer is still essential — summer showers arrive with little warning. Comfortable walking shoes and a pair of sandals, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a small day bag for exploring. Even in July, a light jumper for cooler evenings on the water is worth including.


🍂 Autumn (September to November)

Autumn in Amsterdam is, for many discerning travellers, the most rewarding season of all. September retains much of summer’s warmth, with temperatures around 17–18°C, while crowds begin to thin appreciably after the school holidays end. The canal-side trees turn to amber and gold, the light becomes softer and more photogenic, and the city settles back into a more local rhythm.

September and October offer arguably the best balance of any time of year: queues at the major attractions are far shorter, hotel rates start to ease, and the weather remains genuinely pleasant for cycling, walking, and canal-boat trips. The Unseen Photography Fair in September brings a creative, artistic crowd to the city, and the Amsterdam Dance Event in October makes it one of Europe’s premier destinations for electronic music.

By November, temperatures drop into single figures and rain becomes more persistent. The city grows quieter, though the cosy brown cafés (bruine kroegen) come into their own, and this is a fine time to spend unhurried hours in the museums without competition for space. Hotel prices are among the lowest of the year in November, making it a strong option for those on a tighter budget.

What to pack: A warm, waterproof outer layer is a must from October onwards. Bring mid-weight jumpers or knitwear, a scarf, and comfortable waterproof shoes or ankle boots. In September you can still include a lighter layer or two, but from October plan for genuinely cool weather with the possibility of rain on most days. A compact umbrella, warm socks, and a versatile jacket that works both for sightseeing and evenings out will serve you well.


❄️ Winter (December to February)

Winter is Amsterdam’s quietest and most atmospheric season. Temperatures typically range from around 0°C to 6°C, occasionally dipping below freezing, and daylight is limited to roughly eight hours. Rain and grey skies are common, though frost and occasional snow can transform the canal-side gabled houses into something truly magical. In a very cold winter, the canals sometimes freeze, a rare and enchanting sight.

December brings the Amsterdam Light Festival, an outdoor exhibition of large-scale light installations along the canals and through the city streets that runs into late January. It is spectacular after dark and entirely free to walk around. The festive period itself is busy and prices rise, but January and February are the quietest and most affordable months of the entire year. Attractions such as the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, and the Jewish Historical Museum can be visited with barely a queue in sight.

The city’s indoor culture — its world-class museums, its legendary concert hall the Concertgebouw, its gin houses serving Dutch jenever, and its traditional brown cafés with candles flickering on wooden tables — truly comes into its own in winter. It is not the season for cycling in shorts or lingering on terraces, but for those who enjoy cities at their most intimate and unhurried, a winter visit to Amsterdam has a quiet appeal all of its own.

What to pack: Warm, windproof outerwear is non-negotiable — temperatures with wind chill can feel bitterly cold, particularly along the open canals. Pack thermal base layers, heavyweight jumpers or fleeces, a good-quality waterproof coat, warm hat, gloves, and a scarf. Waterproof boots with grip are advisable, particularly in icy conditions. Moisture-wicking socks and warm tights or thermal leggings will add comfort for long days of walking. A compact umbrella and, for the festive period, smart but warm clothing for evenings at concerts or restaurants.

🏆 Overall Best Time to Visit

If you can choose only one window, late April into May and September represent the sweet spot for most visitors. In late April, the tulip fields are near their peak, King’s Day delivers a celebration unlike anything else in Europe, and temperatures are mild enough for comfortable exploration without the full weight of summer crowds. September offers similarly pleasant conditions — warm enough for canal cruises and outdoor dining, uncrowded enough to walk into a museum without a two-hour wait, and colourful enough in its autumn palette to reward the photographer at every turn. Both periods sit in a happy middle ground between the energy of summer and the tranquillity of winter, offering the best of what Amsterdam does so well: beauty, culture, and a pace of life that invites you to slow down and savour it.

Where to stay?

1. Hotel Not Hotel

Hotel Not Hotel sits in Amsterdam’s Oud-West neighbourhood, a short walk from Kinkerstraat and about five minutes by tram from Leidseplein. The concept is straightforward: every room is a distinct work of art, designed by a different artist or creative team. Most were created by Collaboration-O, a collective of graduates from the Eindhoven Design Academy, and no two spaces look alike. Rooms range from compact to mid-sized, and some share bathroom facilities. Rather than a conventional lobby, guests move through a communal living-room space with seating areas dotted between the individual room units. The Kevin Bacon Bar is open to both guests and locals. Breakfast arrives as a basket delivered to your room. It is an unusual place to stay, and that is entirely the point.

View through the main lobby with the VW camper and tram car in the distance at the Hotel Not Hotel in Amsterdam

2. Sweets Hotel

Sweets Hotel is unlike any other place to stay in Amsterdam. Rather than a single building, it comprises 28 former bridge keeper’s houses scattered across the city, each converted into a self-contained one-bedroom suite for two guests. The houses were originally used to operate Amsterdam’s canal bridges, but when bridge control was centralised, the buildings fell empty. In 2012, the hotel’s founders pitched the idea of converting them to the city council, and the project went ahead. Each suite has its own character, ranging from compact modernist structures to listed historic buildings, and no two are in quite the same setting — some overlook busy junctions, others face quiet residential lakes. Guests must be over 21, and there are no kitchen facilities, but each suite comes with a local neighbourhood guide.

3. Inntel Hotels Amsterdam Zaandam

The Inntel Hotels Amsterdam Zaandam is one of the more recognisable hotels in the Netherlands, its façade made up of nearly 70 stacked traditional Zaan-style houses painted in shades of Dutch green. The building sits right next to Zaandam train station, putting Amsterdam city centre just 12 minutes away by rail, with Schiphol Airport also straightforward to reach. Inside, the 160 rooms are decorated with references to the history of the Zaan region, from historic photographs to design details tied to local industry and craftsmanship. Guests have complimentary access to the Wellness Club, which includes a swimming pool, sauna, steam room, and gym. The on-site restaurant, Puur Saen, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and there is a bar with an outdoor terrace.

Sign up to receive updates

We keep your data private and share your data only with third parties that make this service possible. See our Privacy Policy for more information.

Back To Top
Search

Discover more from Hoblets On The Go

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading