Hungary: Budapest – St Stephen’s Day Festival

March 23, 2024
Hungary
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On August 20th, the Hungarians celebrate the name day of their first king, King Stephen. This is one of three national holidays in Hungary, but the only one that isn’t related to a revolution or a political riot.

Today, was St Stephen’s Day, which is celebrated on August 20 and is an official national holiday in Hungary.

This is a very significant day in Hungary as it celebrates the day when the foundations of the state of Hungary were laid and pays tribute to King Stephen who was fundamental in the establishment of the state of Hungary.

Until the end of the 10th century, the Hungarians were in conflict with other European countries. In 955 A.D., Hungarian tribes suffered a major military loss and the tribal heads decided to give up their raids and concentrate on building a strong state. Stephen I was the last Grand Prince of the Hungarians between 997 and 1000 or 1001, and the first King of Hungary from 1000 or 1001, until he died in 1038. He led the conversion of the Magyar to Christianity believing it would strengthen the state. Stephen received a crown from Pope Sylvester II and the honour of becoming the first King of Hungary in 1000 A.D. His crown is considered a holy treasure and is still found in Hungary’s precious treasures. Stephen died on August 15, 1038, A.D. On August 20, 1083, A.D., he was made a Catholic saint. Ladislaus I declared August 20 a holy day and it was first celebrated in 1092 A.D. It was celebrated as St. Stephen’s Feast Day until 1771 when Queen Maria Theresia expanded it from a church feast to an official national holiday. It further went through amendments and in 1950 the holiday’s name was changed to Constitution Day. The Hungarian parliament reinstated it as the commemoration of St. Stephen’s Feast Day to celebrate the foundation of the Hungarian state. In the canonization process, it was found that King Stephen’s right hand had not decayed at all, hence it was removed and can now be seen in St. Stephen’s Basilica in Budapest.

We decided while we were in town we’d go and enjoy as many of the celebrations as possible.

The first order of the day was to head down to the Parliament building at 8:00 a.m. where there was going to be a ceremonial raising of the Hungarian flag in Kossuth Square in front of the building.

The Opening Ceremony and Armed Forces Graduation
We were early and managed to secure a place at the front, so we had a birds-eye view of the proceedings. On the front steps of the Parliament building were several rows of seats that slowly began to fill with dignitaries, including members of Parliament and Hungary’s President, Katalin Novák, the first woman to hold this position. Once everyone was seated a marching band started up and led several groups of military units into the square, who were recent recruits and would later be sworn in as serving members of the armed forces. It was encouraging to see how many of these recruits were female. The last members of the military to enter were the impressive-looking Hungarian Royal Horse Guards.

Once everyone was set there was a ceremony to raise the flag, followed by some long speeches from military men, politicians and members of the clergy. This went on a bit, but these are folks who liked the sound of their own voices.

It was interesting to watch everything going around the ceremony. The secret service men stood motionless and emotionless with their backs to the ceremony looking suspiciously into the crowd while photographers and videographers flitted in and around the stationary military who stood in rank and file, like moths attracted to a bright light.

There was then the swearing-in ceremony led by a man with a very loud and stern voice, which ended with a bit of sabre rattling, which looked like it could have ended nastily (Karen had watched them practice this the day before – so it wasn’t spontaneous).

The President then came down and walked among the gathered military to inspect them.

The final part of the ceremony was a fly-by of a squadron of JAS-39 Gripen, who released patriotic vapour trails as they passed overhead.

Military Aircraft Airshow
We made our way down to the banks of the Danube, briefing stopped to watch the dignitaries leaving the Parliament building and climbing into their vehicles to be whisked away.

The reason we’d come down to the riverbank was to watch the airshow which traditionally follows the raising of the flag ceremony. The flying happens over the Danube, so you get a great view. There were several displays of military helicopters and more fly-bys of fighter jets and commercial airliners. The whole show lasted about 30 minutes, after which we headed back to our apartment for some breakfast and to prepare ourselves for the rest of the day, which was going to be busy.

Tasting the National Cake for 2023
Later in the afternoon, we set out to find a good spot to watch the fireworks display that takes place from a series of barges that are floated out onto the Danube. Apparently, up to one million people can turn out to watch the event, so we wanted to get to a prime place for viewing.

We set off again towards the Parliament building. It was a hot afternoon, so we stuck to the narrow streets of Pest where the taller buildings provided excellent shade.
We’d read about one of the more unusual rituals of the St Stephen’s Day festival. Each year there is a competition to select the ‘Birthday Cake of Hungary” run by the Hungarian Confectioner Craftsmen Corporation. The recipe of the winning cake is then shared, so it can be made and sold in bakeries and cafes across the country. The winning cake of 2023 was called “Spicces Füge Respectus”.

It would of course have been rude not to try the cake, so we popped into a small bakery and bought some, we had low expectations, but the cake turned out to be tasty.

The Procession to St Stephen’s Basilica
We carried on walking but ended up in a street that was blocked off. Wanting to know what was going on we walked down the barrier. As we got there a procession began passing by in the cross street that we were on. It was led by a group of clergymen in full regalia. We were not quite sure who they were, but they were undoubtedly archbishops and bishops. After this came a group of military men and women including a group of six who were carrying on their shoulders a stretcher that had an ornate box that apparently contained the holy relic of St Stephen’s hand. After this came a group of dignitaries, including President, Katalin Novák. Finally, there were other groups in the procession representing associations.

We joined the back of the procession and walked with them up the street. The procession ended at the Cathedral, Stephen’s Basilica where seating had been set out in front of the church. Groups of people took their seats for the open-air mass. This looked like it was going to be a drawn-out affair and be in Hungarian, so we left to find our spot on the Danube River for the firework display.

The finale – the Firework display
We crossed the Danube on the Széchenyi Chain Bridge along which metal railings had been set up. They obviously did not want people to stay here to view the fireworks. Once on the Buda side of the Danube, we made our way along the banks until we were opposite the Parliament building.

There were still about two hours before the display was to start, so we settled in for the wait, which included buying a couple of bottles of beer and eating our sandwiches.

The fireworks started at 8:00 p.m. on the dot. As well as the fireworks, which were accompanied by music there was a projection show on the façade of the Parliament building. Part of the show was a story, but not speaking Hungarian we did not have a clue what it was about. The fireworks were incredible and went on for about 30 minutes. After the fireworks, there was an impressive display of drones and the playing of the Hungarian National Anthem.
The next challenge was to work our way through the crowds and back to our apartment, which was not as bad as we had expected. There were thousands of people in the streets of Hungary to celebrate the holiday, so we anticipated that it would be a noisy night. Luckily, our apartment was well insulated and once we were tucked up inside, we barely heard a thing. It had been a great day, full of memorable moments.

In summary

If you can try to be in Budapest for St Stephen’s Day it is a packed day of unique cultural experiences
Try the National Cake of the year!
Get to the banks of the Danube early to make sure you secure a great spot to see the fireworks.

Planning your visit to Budapest

The best time to visit Budapest

Budapest is located at the heart of Hungary with a prominent Köppen climate classification of Cfb, translating to a Marine west coast climate with a warm summer. This climate type is characterized by uniformly distributed precipitation throughout the year. The city is influenced by the special characteristics of the Carpathian Basin, introducing an additional variety to its climate.

Temperature profiles belong to a broad spectrum throughout the year, with an observable upward trend from winter low of -2.7°C (27.1°F) in January to a summertime high of 28.8°C (83.8°F) in August. An interesting trait following the temperature trend is the shift in humidity. Starting from an average relative humidity of 84% in January and reaching its lowest of 54% in August, humid conditions in Budapest decrease as temperatures rise.

Rainfall experiences significant variations annually, with the highest observation being 39mm (1.54″) in May and the lowest at 17mm (0.67″) in September. This demonstrates that Budapest experiences a relatively even distribution of rainfall throughout the year, contrary to cities with Mediterranean climates where rainfall is highly concentrated in winter months. However, there are more days of rainfall in May, with an average of 14.5 days, than in any other month. It is also the month with the most abundant sunshine hours, countering the rainy days with 15.1 hours of daylight.

The best time to visit Budapest
Given the plethora of activities and tourist spots available in Budapest, the timing of the visit depends largely on the type of experience one hopes to obtain. However, if weather and climatic conditions are primary considerations, the perfect period ranges from May to October. This interval assures warmer temperatures fluctuating between 11.1°C (52°F) and 28.8°C (83.8°F). Moreover, daylight extends to more than 12 hours per day, providing plenty of time to explore the city while maximizing the overall experience. Despite May being the rainiest month, the number of clear days outnumbers the rainy ones, offering a good balance between refreshing rainfall and clear skies.

The worst time to visit Budapest
Winter months in Budapest, particularly from December to February, tend to be colder and darker. The average temperatures during these months can dip to below 0°C (32°F), and daylight is only about 9 hours. This period also marks the heightened occurrence of snowfall from 22mm (0.87″) to 70mm (2.76″). The combination of cold temperatures, shorter days, and snowfall might not be ideal for tourists who wish to explore the city in comfortable and conducive weather.

Getting around Budapest

Public transports in Budapest work very well and at affordable rates. Its metro system is the oldest in Europe after London, and its four lines cover all the main tourist attractions of the city. Trams, buses, and taxis work very well; they are always on time, allowing you to reach any corner of the city.

Budapest card is a tourist city pass that allows you to move freely; you can choose between the 24, 48 or 72 hours pass and have unlimited access to all public transport rides, as well as some discounted rates for selected services and free entrance to selected museums. By purchasing this card, you will be able to use free public transport rides. The card can be purchased at one of the many Budapest Infopoints or online before arriving in Budapest.

Metro
The Budapest metro has four lines, numbered from 1 to 4 and identified by four colours. Line 4, the green line, is pretty new as it was completed in 2014.

Buses
In Budapest, there are 200 buses lines running from early in the morning to late evening. At night they are replaced by late-night lines. Buses are frequent and punctual; valid tickets are the same as underground tickets.

Trams
In addition to buses, public transport in Budapest includes also trams, which are recognizable by their yellow colour. Trams in Budapest cover about 40 lines, some of which pass through the city centre.

Vegan dining in Budapest

Kozmosz Vegan Restaurant – Hungarian Vegan Cuisine
Napfényes Restaurant and Confectionery – Hungarian Cuisine
Vegan Garden – International Cuisine
Yes it’s vegan – International Cuisine
Édeni Vegán – Vegan fastfood / buffet

Where to stay in Budapest

As you might expect for a European capital city there is a wide variety of accommodation in Budapest to suit a range of budgets. Below is a summary of the main areas that are best suited for visitors.

Budapest’s Castle District is an upscale and calm part of the city. For cultural tourists, it’s loaded with treasures. It’s home to Buda Castle, Fisherman’s Bastion, and Matthias Church. The views from here are some of the best in the city. It’s where the changing of the guards’ ceremony takes place. And the area itself is so darn cute, it attracts tourists simply by being its charming self.
In the daytime, the Castle District is busy with tourists and government workers. At night, however, it turns quiet pretty quickly. For some, this is a good thing – staying up here is a good way to ensure a good night’s sleep! If you’re looking for nightlife, however, you’ll likely find the Castle District a bit – ahem – boring. Add to that, it’s not the most walkable Budapest district. You’ll likely need to use taxis and public transportation if you stay here.
5th district.
The 5th’s official district name: Belváros means downtown in Hungarian.
The 5th is a long, skinny district running along the Pest side of the Danube. It’s home to some of the city’s most popular and most impressive tourist attractions. The spectacular Hungarian Parliament Building is here. As are St Stephen’s Basilica, Shoes on the Danube monument, and the Chain Bridge. If you want to do some shopping while in Budapest, Fashion Street (Deák Ferenc u.) and Váci u., both on the 5th, are the place to do it.
If we had to describe the 5th in a single word, it’d be elegant. The overall vibe here is upscale. The gorgeous boulevards and pretty squares feel oh so Parisian in parts.
Budapest 6th District – Terézvaros
Budapest’s 6th District has a split personality. The good news is, that means there’s something for everyone when it comes to finding a place to stay here.
On the one hand, the 6th is home to the stately Andrássy Avenue, often touted as the Champs-Élysées of Budapest. Along here, you’ll find the Hungarian State Opera, gorgeous architecture, and high-end shops and cafés.
Budapest 7th District – Erzsébetváros
Budapest’s 7th District is the historic Jewish quarter. In addition to being home to long-time residents and a small Jewish community, today it is Budapest’s nightlife district.
Generally speaking, the offering here ranges from cheap and cheerful to mid-range. For the city’s poshest spots, you’re better off in the 5th, although there are some nice wine and cocktail bars in the 7th.
Budapest 8th District – Jószefváros & The Palace District
Like the 6th, Budapest’s 8th district has a split personality. Sitting between the 9th to the south and 7th to the north, the 8th can be thought of as two separate districts.
The inner section of the 8th, otherwise known as the Palace District, is Budapest’s latest district. It’s wedged between the Múzeum körút between Kálvin tér and Astoria on its western border, and József krt on its eastern border. centre.

Accommodation ideas for different budgets

1. Luxury – Queen’s Court Hotel & Residence

The Queen’s Court Hotel & Residence is ideally located in the heart of Budapest and it features a lavish retro-classical spa area with indoor pool and a hot tub. A quiet garden in the courtyard invites all guests to relax. Free WiFi is available in the entire hotel.

The Queen’s Court provides spacious, individually designed suites with balconies, air conditioning and kitchenettes. Some also have a spacious living room and a dining area.

The in-house Chess Restaurant & Bar serves international cuisine and fine wines.

2. Mid Range – Budapest Museum Central

Right across from the Hungarian National Museum, the Budapest Museum Central occupies several floors in a historic 19th-century building.

Wireless internet access is available free of charge.

The rooms are bright and large and can accommodate two or three guests. Many rooms have spectacular views onto the Museum and all are equipped with heated floors.

3. Budget – Pal’s Hostel and Apartments

Offering tastefully furnished accommodations units in the very center of Budapest, the pet-friendly Pal’s Hostel and Apartments is located right in front of the St. Stephen’s Basilica. Free WiFi is available throughout the property.

Most of the rooms at Pal’s offer views of the city and private bathroom, while some are provided with shared bathroom facilities. The studios and the apartments are fitted with a kitchen or a kitchenette for self-catering. A shared kitchen is also available for all guests, equipped with a toaster, a kettle, a microwave and a refrigerator. Towels and bed linen are provided.