Pannonhalma Archabbey is a UNESCO-listed Benedictine monastery founded in 996 AD on a hilltop above northwestern Hungary, where monks have prayed and worked without interruption for over a millennium alongside Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture of extraordinary ambition and completeness.
Hungary: A Guide to Budapest’s UNESCO World Heritage
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Budapest’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites
We’ll be honest, we went to Budapest without really knowing what we were looking at, which is roughly how we approach most cities, and most of life if we’re being truthful. We knew there was a river involved, and we knew there were two halves to the place that used to be separate cities, and beyond that we were relying on a guidebook we’d bought at Stansted and barely opened. It turns out Buda and Pest were exactly that — two entirely separate towns, sitting on opposite banks of the Danube, glaring at each other across the water for centuries before they finally got round to merging in 1873, along with a smaller third town called Óbuda thrown in for good measure. We rather admire that kind of civic bluntness. No referendum, no twenty-year consultation process, just three towns deciding one day that they’d be better off as one, and calling it Budapest.
What we hadn’t appreciated, and what sent us down something of a rabbit hole once we got home, is that great chunks of this city are UNESCO World Heritage listed, and have been since 1987. The listing covers three distinct bits: the Banks of the Danube themselves, the Buda Castle Quarter up on the hill, and Andrássy Avenue with its rather grand Millennium Underground Railway, which got tacked on as an extension to the listing in 2002. We like a good UNESCO badge. It’s a sort of promise from a committee of very serious people that you’re not wasting your time, and in Budapest’s case they were not wrong.
🏰 The Buda Castle Quarter
Up on Castle Hill, on the western bank, is where the old royalty used to hang about, and you can tell, because everything up there has that slightly smug, look-at-me quality that old royal quarters tend to have. The first castle went up here in the thirteenth century, around 1247, built by King Béla IV, and he wasn’t doing it for the view. He’d just watched the Mongols flatten most of his kingdom in the invasion of 1241–42, and building a great stone fortress on top of a hill seemed like a sensible response to nearly having your entire country destroyed by horsemen from the steppe. We can’t say we blame him.
The castle itself has been knocked down, rebuilt, besieged, burned and generally put through the wringer more times than we could keep track of while wandering round it with coffees going cold in our hands. The Ottomans took it in 1541 and held onto Buda for close to a century and a half, which is longer than most empires manage to hold onto anything, and when the Habsburgs finally took it back in 1686 the siege apparently reduced most of the hilltop to rubble. What stands there now is largely an eighteenth and nineteenth-century reconstruction, with a Baroque palace that was then rebuilt again after the Second World War, because Budapest, rather unfairly, seems to have had more than its share of getting fought over.
The bit we liked best, and we suspect most visitors do, was the Fisherman’s Bastion, which sounds like it ought to be ancient and defensive but is in fact nothing of the sort — it was built between 1895 and 1902, purely for decoration, by an architect called Frigyes Schulek, and it’s all turrets and terraces in a neo-Romanesque style that looks like something out of a fairy tale illustration. There never was an actual fortification here for fishermen to defend, which we found strangely reassuring. Sometimes a monument can just be built because it looks nice, without some poor devil having had to die for it, and there’s something rather lovely about that.
Right next door is Matthias Church, which has been there in some form since the thirteenth century, though what you see today is largely a nineteenth-century Gothic Revival job, all pointed arches and a roof tiled in that eye-catching Zsolnay ceramic that makes it look almost edible, like a very elaborate gingerbread house. During the Ottoman occupation it was converted into a mosque, which the guide informed us with the sort of deadpan delivery that suggested she’d said it four hundred times that week, and we did wonder, not for the first time on this trip, how many buildings in Europe have quietly swapped religions two or three times over the centuries depending on who happened to be in charge that decade.
🌉 The Banks of the Danube and the Chain Bridge
Down at river level is where the UNESCO listing really earns its keep, because the view along the Danube from either bank is, without wanting to sound like we’ve swallowed a brochure, genuinely one of the best city views we’ve come across, and we include London in that, London being a city we love dearly but which does not, on the whole, arrange itself for the camera quite so obligingly.
The Chain Bridge, or Széchenyi Lánchíd if you want to impress absolutely nobody at a dinner party, was the first permanent bridge to link Buda and Pest, and it opened in 1849, which was rather a dramatic year for Hungary generally, what with the failed revolution against Habsburg rule going on at more or less the same time. Before the bridge went up, people crossed the river on pontoon boats in summer and, extraordinarily, on foot across the ice in winter, which strikes us as the sort of arrangement that ends badly at least once a decade. The bridge itself was designed by an Englishman, William Tierney Clark, who also did Marlow Bridge back home, and built by a Scotsman called Adam Clark, no relation, which is a coincidence the tour guides clearly enjoy pointing out rather more than the coincidence itself deserves.
Along the Pest side of the river, a little further down, is the Hungarian Parliament Building, which is one of those structures that makes you stop walking rather abruptly and just stare for a minute, feeling slightly foolish. It’s enormous — nearly 268 metres long — and went up between 1885 and 1904, all neo-Gothic spires and a dome you can see from practically anywhere in the city, designed by an architect named Imre Steindl who, in one of those grim little historical footnotes, went blind before it was finished and never got to see the completed building. We found that unexpectedly sad, standing there with our cameras out, taking pictures of a building its own architect never saw.
Further along the embankment, easy to miss and rather easy to be badly affected by, is the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial — sixty pairs of iron shoes cast in the style of 1940s footwear, set into the stone right at the water’s edge. It commemorates Jewish citizens who were marched to the riverbank by Arrow Cross militiamen in the winter of 1944 and 1945, told to remove their shoes, and shot, so that the current would carry them away. It’s a quiet, understated sort of memorial, no plinth to speak from, and we stood there for rather longer than we’d planned to, hands in pockets, not quite sure where to look.
🚇 Andrássy Avenue and the Little Underground That Could
The third part of the World Heritage listing, added in 2002, is Andrássy Avenue, a grand boulevard laid out between 1872 and 1885 and clearly, unashamedly, modelled on the Champs-Élysées, in the way that ambitious nineteenth-century cities liked to borrow a bit of Paris whenever they got the chance. It runs for two and a half kilometres from the centre of Pest out to Heroes’ Square, lined with grand town houses, embassies and the Hungarian State Opera House, and it’s a lovely thing to walk down slowly, assuming your feet haven’t already given up on you by that point in the day, which ours generally had.
Heroes’ Square itself, at the far end, was built for the Millennium celebrations of 1896, marking a thousand years since the Magyar tribes settled in the Carpathian Basin, and it’s dominated by a great colonnade of statues of Hungarian chieftains and kings, all looking suitably stern and historically significant, as statues of chieftains generally do.
Underneath Andrássy Avenue runs the Millennium Underground Railway, opened in 1896 for those same anniversary celebrations, and it is, rather charmingly, the oldest electrified underground railway on the European continent, and the second oldest in the world after London’s own Underground, which only got going properly with electric trains a touch earlier. We felt a small and entirely undeserved swell of national pride standing on that platform, as though we’d personally had something to do with London getting there first, when in fact our only contribution to the London Underground has been standing on it complaining about delays.
Getting around Budapest
Getting around Budapest is relatively easy due to its excellent public transportation system, as well as walkable streets and scenic bike paths. Here’s an overview of the best ways to get around the city:
1. Public Transportation
Budapest has a comprehensive public transport system, including buses, trams, and metro lines.
- Metro: The city has four metro lines (M1, M2, M3, and M4), with the M1 being the oldest and running from Vörösmarty Square to the City Park. The M3 connects key points like Deák Ferenc Square and Kőbánya-Kispest. The M4 line connects the western and eastern parts of the city.
- Trams: Trams are a scenic way to get around, with several routes running along the Danube River, offering views of the city’s landmarks. The most famous is Tram 2, which runs along the river from the southern Buda side to the northern Pest side.
- Buses: Buses cover areas not served by the metro or trams. Some routes are more frequent, such as those connecting the airport to the city center.
- Trolleybuses: These are electric buses that run in some parts of the city, with routes covering the downtown area and Buda hills.
- Tickets: You can buy tickets for all public transport modes at kiosks, metro stations, or through the mobile app. A standard ticket is valid for a single journey on any type of transport, but you’ll need to validate your ticket before boarding.
2. Trams and Buses
- Trams are a popular and scenic way to get around, with many routes along the river or in historic areas.
- Buses complement the metro and trams, covering areas the other systems don’t.
3. Biking
- Budapest has bike rental services and plenty of bike lanes, especially in central areas like Pest. You can rent bikes from services like MOL Bubi (public bike sharing), where you pick up and drop off bikes at stations around the city. The city’s parks and streets offer a great biking experience.
4. Walking
- Many parts of Budapest, especially the historic areas like the Castle District, the Jewish Quarter, and the city center, are very walkable. You can easily explore these on foot, soaking in the architecture and landmarks.
5. Taxis and Ride-hailing Apps
- Taxis are widely available, but it’s better to book one via a phone app or through an official taxi company (such as Főtaxi). Alternatively, you can use ride-hailing apps like Bolt and Uber (Uber operates under different regulations in Budapest, but you can still use some alternatives).
6. River Cruises and Boats
- Budapest’s location along the Danube River makes boat tours a popular activity. There are public transport boats (like D11, D12, etc.) that operate on the river and can be a unique way to explore the city.
7. Airport Transportation
- Budapest Airport (Liszt Ferenc International) is located about 20 km from the city center. You can take:
- Bus 100E (express airport bus), which goes directly to Deák Ferenc Square.
- Taxi: Taxis from the airport are available at fixed fares to the city center (around 30–40 minutes).
- Private transfers: Several services can pre-arrange airport transfers.
8. Car Rentals
- While driving in Budapest is possible, it’s not recommended due to the heavy traffic, narrow streets, and expensive parking. The public transport system is more efficient for getting around the city.
9. Hop-on Hop-off Tours
- For tourists, hop-on-hop-off bus tours are a convenient way to see the main attractions. They allow you to explore Budapest at your own pace with the option to jump on and off at popular tourist spots.
In summary, public transportation, trams, and walking are the best ways to get around Budapest, with bikes and river cruises offering great alternatives for scenic travel.
Eating out for vegans in Budapest
While Bergen might not be the most vegan-friendly city in the world, there are still plenty of high-quality options to choose from.
- Napfényes (meaning sunny in Hungarian) is one of the oldest fully plant-based restaurants in Budapest, right in the heart of the city. There are plenty of vegan fast food options around the capital, but Napfényes offers something a bit more special, making it a good choice for a date or dinner with family members. If you want to try some authentic traditional Hungarian dishes, with a plant-based twist, then this is the place to eat. I recommend the Bean Goulash soup, Stuffed Cabbage à la Kolozsvár, Seitan Roast à la Brasov and the Somló Sponge Cake to complete your Hungarian taste experience.
Vegan Love is an epic fast food place next to Gellért Hill and the Gellért Bath, and the perfect place to refuel after a long walk or when you’re super relaxed from enjoying the thermal baths. The space is small, but when the weather is nice you can bask in the sun on the outside seating. Vegan Love gained a reputation for its sensational plant-based burgers, but you can’t go wrong with the döner kebab or Mexican-style hot dog either.
- Vegan Garden offers soups, burgers, pasta dishes, pizzas, and a few Hungarian classics. The Forest Mushroom Paprikash with homemade dumplings, vegan sour cream and cucumber salad is a real stand-out. This is a fully vegan version of a traditional Hungarian dish that locals will cook for a Sunday lunch. If you want an authentic experience of Hungary, give it a try!
- Tucked away in a small street close to Margaret Island, Tökmag is a hidden gem you wouldn’t find unless you knew what you were looking for. But don’t let the tiny ground-floor reception fool you, there is a large dining room below ground, and if the weather is nice, you can enjoy your meal at one of the tables on the pedestrian street outside. This delightful bistro offers a selection of soups, salads and cakes
- You really can’t go wrong with freshly baked pita and a selection of creamy, vibrant dips, and that’s exactly what Dobrumba does so well. With two locations – one on the Buda side of the river, and the other on Pest, this Middle-Eastern gem is not to be missed. The restaurant is not fully vegan but offers a selection of plant-based dips and some easily customized dishes that will leave any meat and dairy dodger fully satisfied.
The best time to visit Budapest
The best time to visit Budapest is typically spring (March to May) or fall (September to November). During these periods, the weather is pleasant, attractions are less crowded than in the peak summer months, and accommodation prices can be more reasonable. Here’s a breakdown:
Spring (March to May):
- Weather: Mild temperatures ranging from 10°C to 20°C (50°F to 68°F).
- Activities: Blossoming gardens, river cruises on the Danube, and outdoor cafes opening up.
- Crowds: Moderate, as it’s not yet peak tourist season.
Fall (September to November):
- Weather: Comfortable, with temperatures between 10°C to 20°C (50°F to 68°F).
- Activities: Beautiful autumn foliage, wine festivals, and cultural events.
- Crowds: Lower than summer, making it easier to explore popular sites like Buda Castle and Fisherman’s Bastion.
Summer (June to August):
- Weather: Warm to hot, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C (86°F).
- Activities: Outdoor festivals, thermal baths, and late-night entertainment.
- Crowds: This is the busiest season, with higher accommodation costs and crowded attractions.
Winter (December to February):
- Weather: Cold, with temperatures often dropping below freezing.
- Activities: Christmas markets, thermal baths (especially magical in winter), and fewer crowds at major attractions.
- Crowds: Minimal, except during the Christmas and New Year period.
If you enjoy comfortable weather and fewer crowds, spring or fall are ideal times to visit Budapest.
Where to stay in Budapest
1. Mid Range: Bo18 Hotel Superior
Bo18 Hotel Superior is a stylish and modern three-star hotel located in Budapest, Hungary, offering a comfortable and welcoming stay for travelers. Situated near the bustling Corvin Promenade, it provides easy access to cultural landmarks, shopping areas, and vibrant nightlife. The hotel features elegantly designed rooms equipped with modern amenities, including free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and air conditioning, ensuring a pleasant experience for guests. Bo18 Hotel Superior is renowned for its exceptional service, relaxing wellness area with a sauna and jacuzzi, and a delicious buffet breakfast catering to diverse tastes. It’s an ideal choice for business and leisure travelers alike, blending convenience with a touch of luxury.
2. Luxury – Áurea Ana Palace
The Áurea Ana Palace is a remarkable hotel located in the heart of Budapest, Hungary. Nestled near the Danube River, it embodies a harmonious blend of historical elegance and modern luxury. The building, once a stately 19th-century palace, has been meticulously restored to preserve its architectural grandeur, including its ornate facades and intricate interior details. Guests are treated to sophisticated accommodations, combining classic charm with contemporary amenities. The hotel’s proximity to Budapest’s iconic landmarks, such as the Parliament Building and Buda Castle, makes it a prime location for travelers. Offering exceptional hospitality, gourmet dining, and wellness facilities, the Áurea Ana Palace provides a regal experience reflective of the city’s rich heritage.
3. Budget – Avenue Hostel
Avenue Hostel in Budapest is a popular choice for travelers seeking affordable yet comfortable accommodation in the heart of the city. Located on the bustling Oktogon square, it offers easy access to Budapest’s iconic attractions, vibrant nightlife, and convenient public transportation. The hostel features a welcoming atmosphere with modern, clean dormitories and private rooms, ensuring options for all types of travelers. Guests can enjoy complimentary breakfast, a shared kitchen, and cozy common areas to socialize. The friendly staff is always ready to assist with tips on exploring the city, making Avenue Hostel a top pick for backpackers and budget-conscious adventurers.
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