Bangkok is Thailand's vast and endlessly energetic capital city: a place where gilded Buddhist temples stand in the shadow of luxury hotels traffic-choked boulevards give way to tranquil river klongs and street food stalls serve some of the finest cooking in Southeast Asia.
Thailand: Koh Samui – Beaches Temples and Island Life
Contents
1. About Koh Samui
2. Things to do
– Big Buddha (Phra Yai Temple)
– Wat Plai Laem
– Guan Yu Shrine
– Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks
– Wat Ratchathammaram (The Red Temple)
– Go to a Muay Thai Event
– Ang Thong National Marine Park
– Visit Fisherman’s Village, Bophut
– Na Muang Waterfalls
– Secret Buddha Garden
– The Markets of Koh Samui
– The Beaches of Koh Samui
– The Elephant Sanctuary
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. Best time to visit
6. Where to stay
About Koh Samui
Koh Samui is Thailand’s second-largest island and sits in the Gulf of Thailand off the eastern coast of the Kra Isthmus, roughly 700 kilometres south of Bangkok. It’s the kind of place that somehow managed to be both utterly beautiful and extremely well connected at the same time, which is a rarer combination than you might think. The island is known for its palm-fringed beaches, coconut groves and dense, mountainous rainforest that rises sharply inland from the coast, along with the luxury resorts and posh spas that have sprung up to take full advantage of all of the above.
Samui is actually the third-largest island in the whole of Thailand — not the second-largest as you sometimes read — and the largest in an archipelago of more than 80 islands that stretches across the Gulf. That archipelago includes Ang Thong National Marine Park, a jaw-dropping collection of 42 limestone islands that’s rightly become one of the most popular day trips on offer from Koh Samui, and well worth a full day of your time. The island was first settled by Chinese immigrants from Hainan in the early 19th century, largely drawn there by the coconut trade, and coconut remained the island’s principal export — sending millions of nuts a year to the mainland — right up until tourism arrived and quietly took over the economy sometime in the 1970s and 80s.
What makes Samui particularly good fun is the sheer variety of what’s on offer within a surprisingly compact space. The island is only about 25 kilometres across at its widest point, and you can drive around the entire ring road in a couple of hours on a motorbike or in a rental car without breaking a sweat. And yet, despite that modest size, there is genuinely enough here to keep you busy for well over a week without ever feeling like you’re scraping the barrel. There are beautiful beaches at Chaweng, Lamai, Taling Ngam and Natien, each with its own character and atmosphere — from the buzzing party stretch at Chaweng to the considerably quieter and more local feel you get at Taling Ngam on the south-west coast.
Beyond the beaches there’s an island full of history, culture and natural spectacle. Perhaps the most remarkable planning decision anywhere in Southeast Asian tourism is a local building regulation that stipulates no structure on the island can be taller than the nearest coconut palm. That single rule — still apparently enforced, at least in spirit — has done an enormous amount to prevent Samui from going the way of some other Thai beach destinations and turning into a wall of ugly concrete tower blocks. The coconut palms, for what it’s worth, tend to top out at around 25 to 30 metres, which keeps the shoreline looking genuinely picturesque in a way that you don’t always get on islands of this popularity.
Activities run the full gamut: cooking courses where you learn to make a proper green curry from scratch, yoga instruction on the beach at sunrise, Muay Thai training at one of the island’s many boxing camps, scuba diving on the reefs off the south coast, and even golf if that’s your thing. There are quieter beaches ideal for doing absolutely nothing in particular, particularly around some of the finest five-star resorts in the world, and there are corners of the island that retain genuine old-world charm — Bo Phut in particular, with its row of beautifully converted old Chinese shophouses along the waterfront, feels like a completely different place to the busy main strip at Chaweng. What Koh Samui has managed to do, rather impressively, is develop into its own distinct style of island paradise — retaining a good deal of its natural beauty and local character while simultaneously offering nearly every imaginable activity, service or indulgence for the ultimate beach holiday. Not many islands pull that off.
Things to do
Big Buddha (Phra Yai Temple)
Wat Plai Laem
Wat Plai Laem — sometimes called the Lady Monk Temple — is located in the northern part of the island not far from the Big Buddha, and is without any question one of the most visually spectacular temples anywhere on Koh Samui. Built in 2004 on the site of an older temple, the whole complex sits on a lake and is connected to the shore by a series of bridges, giving it a floating quality that’s particularly beautiful in the late afternoon light. The centrepiece is an 18-armed statue of Guanyin — the Buddhist and Taoist goddess of mercy — standing around 18 metres tall. It is not until you stand next to her that you realise quite how big she is. The complex also features a large smiling Budai statue, colourful ceramic decorations and fish-feeding platforms over the lake. The mixture of Chinese and Thai Buddhist iconography in a single setting makes it culturally fascinating.
- 📍 Location: Route 4171, north-east Koh Samui, near Bang Rak Beach
- 🌐 Website: No official website; well signposted from Route 4169
- 📞 Telephone: No dedicated public number
- 🕐 Opening Hours: Daily 6:00 AM – 6:00 PM
- 💰 Entry Fee: Free; donations welcome; fish food for the lake around 20 baht
Guan Yu Shrine
The Guan Yu Shrine is one of the very few Chinese temples on Koh Samui. Guan Yu was a real historical figure — a celebrated general of China’s Three Kingdoms period around 220–280 AD — who became so revered for his loyalty and military prowess that he was eventually deified. You’ll find shrines to him in Chinatowns from London to San Francisco. This particular shrine only opened in 2016, making it one of the more modern holy sites on the island, but don’t let that put you off. The bronze statue of Guan Yu that anchors the complex stands 16 metres tall — the largest bronze image of the deity in Thailand — and is visible from the road long before you arrive. The surrounding hall is decorated with golden dragon murals, hanging incense coils and offerings of fruit and flowers. The Chinese community has been significant on Koh Samui since the 19th century, and this shrine is a vivid reminder of that heritage.
- 📍 Location: 190/11 Moo 1, Route 4169, Hua Thanon, south Koh Samui (approx. 250m north of the Hua Thanon Wet Market)
- 🌐 Website: thaiholidayguide.com/attractions/guan-yu-shrine
- 📞 Telephone: +66 77 418 854
- 🕐 Opening Hours: Daily 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
- 💰 Entry Fee: Free; donation box inside
Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks
We’ll be honest with you: the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks are exactly what they sound like. Hin Ta and Hin Yai — to give them their Thai names — are naturally formed rock formations at the southern end of Lamai Beach, and they are shaped in a manner that leaves absolutely nothing to the imagination. They have been a tourist attraction long before the island became internationally known, and they remain one of the biggest draws on Koh Samui, with hundreds of people queuing up every day to be photographed next to them with whatever facial expression seems appropriate. The legend tells of an elderly couple who drowned at sea while sailing to find a wife for their son, their spirits transformed into the rocky formations as a memorial. Geologically speaking, they were sculpted by thousands of years of wave erosion on granite outcrops. The whole experience takes perhaps 30 minutes, but it would be deeply wrong to visit Koh Samui and not see them. You’ll be explaining them to people back home for years.
- 📍 Location: 126/92 Moo 3, Lamai, southern end of Lamai Beach, off Route 4169
- 🌐 Website: No official website; well signposted on the ring road
- 📞 Telephone: No dedicated public number
- 🕐 Opening Hours: Sunday–Friday 8:30 AM – 6:30 PM; Saturday 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM
- 💰 Entry Fee: Free; parking around 20 baht
Wat Ratchathammaram (The Red Temple)
Wat Ratchathammaram — more memorably known as the Red Temple — is a genuinely beautiful sacred site that doesn’t always make the tourist trail, despite being well worth the detour. The temple takes its nickname from its vivid crimson colour scheme, which sets it apart immediately from the gleaming white and gold of most Thai temples and gives the whole complex a dramatic appearance, particularly in strong sunlight when the red paintwork practically glows. Immediately adjacent stands a golden pagoda that catches the light in an incredibly impressive way — there’s a moment on first sight where you simply stop and stare, which is presumably the entire point. A staircase decorated with naga serpent heads leads directly from the complex down to the sea below, one of the more unusual and picturesque approaches to a beach you’ll find anywhere in Thailand. The naga holds enormous significance in Thai Buddhism, and their presence here as guardians of the descent to the water is entirely fitting.
- 📍 Location: Hua Thanon, southern coast of Koh Samui, approx. 1km south of Hin Ta and Hin Yai
- 🌐 Website: No official website
- 📞 Telephone: No dedicated public number
- 🕐 Opening Hours: Daily 6:00 AM – 6:00 PM
- 💰 Entry Fee: Free; donations appreciated
Go to a Muay Thai Event
Muay Thai is the national sport and cultural martial art of Thailand, and watching a live bout on Koh Samui is one of those experiences you ought to make time for even if combat sports aren’t your thing. Trust us — the atmosphere is something else entirely, and the skill and athleticism of the fighters is genuinely impressive regardless of your prior knowledge. The art developed during the Ayutthaya Kingdom period — roughly the 14th to 18th centuries — as military training for the Siamese army. Its defining characteristic is the use of the entire body as a weapon: fists, elbows, knees and shins in combination, what practitioners call the “Art of Eight Limbs.” There are two main stadiums on the island, both in the Chaweng area, operating on alternate nights so a bout is available almost every evening of the week. Book online in advance — they do sell out.
Samui International Muay Thai Stadium:
- 📍 Location: Behind Laem Din Market, Chaweng Beach
- 🌐 Website: samuithaiboxing.com
- 📞 Telephone: See website for current details
- 🕐 Fight Nights: Tuesday, Friday & Sunday; doors 8:00 PM, bouts from 9:00 PM
- 💰 Tickets: Stadium ฿1,500 · Ringside ฿2,000 · VIP ฿2,500 · Premium VIP (incl. one drink) ฿3,000; under 5s free, ages 6–10 half price
Ang Thong National Marine Park
Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park is quite simply one of the most spectacular natural settings in South-East Asia, and a day trip here from Koh Samui ranks easily among the highlights of any visit to the Gulf of Thailand. Established as a marine national park in 1980, it covers 102 square kilometres and comprises 42 limestone islands roughly 31 kilometres north-west of Samui. The journey by speedboat is genuinely exciting — the islands emerge from the sea like something from a film set, their steep karsts rising dramatically from the water draped in dense jungle. The park’s most celebrated feature is the Emerald Lake on Ko Mae Ko, a vivid jade-green saltwater lake sealed inside the limestone hills, reached by a breathless climb through the jungle. All but two of the 42 islands are entirely uninhabited, which contributes enormously to the atmosphere of profound wildness that the place maintains despite the daily arrival of tourist boats.
- 📍 Location: Approx. 30km north-west of Koh Samui; accessible only via licensed tour operators — no independent access
- 🌐 Website: thainationalparks.com/mu-ko-ang-thong · Tours: getyourguide.tp.st/6aCCwT5U
- 📞 Telephone: Department of National Parks: +66 77 280 222
- 🕐 Opening Hours: Daily 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM; typically closed 1 November – 15 December for monsoon season
- 💰 Entry Fee: ฿300 adult / ฿150 child (ages 3–14) for foreign visitors; paid on arrival at the park and usually not included in tour prices — confirm with your operator
Visit Fisherman’s Village, Bophut
Once a quiet fishing community in the north of Koh Samui, Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village is today one of the island’s most atmospheric attractions. The village runs along a short street of wooden shophouses dating from the early 20th century, built by the Chinese immigrant community who ran fishing and trading businesses from these same buildings. Over the past couple of decades they’ve been sympathetically converted into boutiques, bars, galleries and restaurants without losing the architectural bones that make the place so charming — the narrow shopfronts, wooden shutters and tiled roofs remain largely intact. The village really comes into its own on Friday evenings when the walking street market takes over the road: one of those markets where you go planning an hour and emerge two and a half hours later slightly fuller than intended, clutching things you didn’t plan to buy. Outside market nights the restaurants here are genuinely excellent and the whole place has an enchanting atmosphere that the busier stretches of the island simply can’t replicate.
📍 Location: Bophut, north Koh Samui — beachfront road between Maenam and Bang Rak
🌐 Website: No official website
📞 Telephone: No central number
🕐 Opening Hours: Shops and restaurants daily, typically mid-morning to late evening; Night Market every Monday, Wednesday & Friday 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM (Friday is the busiest night)
💰 Entry Fee: Free; pay for what you eat, drink and buy
Na Muang Waterfalls
Set within lush jungle surroundings in the hilly interior of the island, the two Na Muang Waterfalls are worth setting aside a half-day for and make a particularly welcome change from the beach. Na Muang 1 is the more accessible — just a short flat walk from the car park — and tumbles over a wide shelf of distinctive purple-tinged rock into a natural pool perfectly suited for a cooling swim. The purple hue comes from the rock’s mineral content and gives the place a slightly other-worldly quality. Na Muang 2 requires around 30 minutes of uphill jungle walking but rewards the effort with a taller, arguably even more beautiful waterfall dropping in a single curtain of white water. The entrance is completely free, which given the quality of what’s on offer seems almost unreasonably generous. Small food stalls and souvenir huts line the trail, and with most tourists gravitating to the beaches, the waterfalls remain blissfully uncrowded.
- 📍 Location: 37/1 Thawi Rat Phakdi Road, 1km north off Route 4169, Na Muang, central Koh Samui
- 🌐 Website: No official website; well signposted from Route 4169
- 📞 Telephone: No dedicated public number
- 🕐 Opening Hours: Daily 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
- 💰 Entry Fee: Free; small parking fee applies; ignore touts suggesting otherwise — no guide or ticket is required
Secret Buddha Garden
The Secret Buddha Garden — also known as the Magic Garden or Tarnim Magic Garden — is hidden in the steep hills of Koh Samui’s interior at around 500 metres, offering majestic views over the jungle canopy and the Gulf of Thailand beyond. The gardens are entirely and wonderfully the life’s work of a single individual: a local fruit farmer named Nim Thongsuk who began erecting statues and small temples around his family’s hillside land in 1976 and continued for the rest of his very long life, working right up until his death at the age of 91. The statues depict animals, deities, monks, warriors and mythical figures from Thai and Buddhist folklore — including one of Nim himself, sitting contentedly on a rock. A stream and small waterfall run through the gardens under thick jungle foliage. Getting here requires a steep, bumpy road best tackled in a 4×4; many visitors come as part of an organised day trip.
- 📍 Location: Tarnim, interior hills of Koh Samui, north-west of Lamai Beach — approx. 500m above sea level; 4×4 strongly recommended
- 🌐 Website: No official website; book through local tour operators
- 📞 Telephone: No dedicated public number
- 🕐 Opening Hours: Daily 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM
- 💰 Entry Fee: ฿100 per person
The Markets of Koh Samui
Koh Samui has more night markets than most visitors expect, and they’re one of the best and cheapest ways to eat well, pick up decent souvenirs and get a genuine feel for how locals spend their evenings. There are regular markets operating most nights of the week across the island, so there’s no excuse for not visiting at least two or three during any stay of reasonable length.
The undisputed favourite is the Fisherman’s Village Walking Street in Bophut, running every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 5:00 PM — the Friday night version is the biggest and most atmospheric, and if you’re only going to one market during your trip, make it this one.
For sheer scale and energy, Chaweng Walking Street runs Thursday to Saturday from around 5:00 PM to 11:00 PM and is an exhilarating chaos of beachwear, wooden souvenirs, grilled meats, pad thai and fresh fruit shakes. More commercialised than Fisherman’s Village but tremendous fun for an evening wander.
Lamai Night Plaza, open Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 5:00 PM, is the calmer south coast alternative — good for couples and families who want the market experience without the full Chaweng intensity. For something genuinely local, the Nathon Market on the west coast runs daily from 4:30 PM with excellent fishcakes, spring rolls and grilled fish at prices that will make you question why you’ve been eating on Chaweng Beach Road at all.
- 📍 Fisherman’s Village Walking Street: Bophut Beach Road — Mon, Wed & Fri 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM
- 📍 Chaweng Walking Street: South of Chaweng Beach Road — Thu, Fri & Sat 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM
- 📍 Lamai Night Plaza: 139/16 Had Lamai Road — Wed, Thu & Sun 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
- 📍 Nathon Market: Nathon, west coast — Daily 4:30 PM – 10:00 PM
- 💰 Entry Fee: All markets free to enter
The Beaches of Koh Samui
The beaches are, let’s be honest, the main reason most of us come here in the first place, and Koh Samui has enough variety to keep any reasonable person happy for a fortnight. The east coast gets the most sun and clearest water from December to April; the west and south coasts are calmer, more local and spectacular at sunset.
Chaweng Beach is the island’s longest stretch — seven kilometres of white sand — and the most comprehensively equipped, with beach clubs, watersports, restaurants and bars all within walking distance. Lively, loud, and absolutely the right choice if energy and convenience are your priorities.
Lamai Beach runs for around four kilometres just south of Chaweng and is the quieter, better-value alternative — white sand, deeper blue water, excellent restaurants and a genuine low-rise town behind the beach. The southern end around the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks is the prettiest stretch.
Silver Beach (also called Crystal Bay) is a tiny 250-metre cove between Chaweng and Lamai offering arguably the finest sand on the island and extraordinary water clarity — tropical fish visible right from the shore without a snorkel. Go early; the secret is increasingly out.
Maenam Beach on the north coast is the top choice for families — calm, shallow water, minimal jet ski harassment, budget-friendly accommodation and a genuinely peaceful atmosphere miles removed from Chaweng even though it’s only 20 minutes away.
Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi on the west coast are where you go for sunsets, seclusion and authentic local seafood restaurants — genuinely spectacular in the early evening when the light catches the Gulf.
- 📍 Chaweng Beach: East coast, central Koh Samui — free
- 📍 Lamai Beach: South-east coast — free
- 📍 Silver Beach: Between Chaweng and Lamai, accessed via steep track off Route 4169 — free (sun loungers approx. ฿100–200)
- 📍 Maenam Beach: North coast, west of Bophut — free
- 📍 Taling Ngam / Lipa Noi: West coast — free
The Elephant Sanctuary
Visiting an ethical elephant sanctuary is one of the most memorable experiences Koh Samui has to offer, and one that matters considerably more than it might initially seem. Elephant riding remains widely available on the island — we would strongly urge you not to do it. The welfare conditions for riding elephants are significantly worse than those at reputable sanctuaries, and the income directly perpetuates an industry built on practices that cause real suffering to these extraordinary animals.
Samui Elephant Sanctuary is the most established ethical option, with two locations — the original in Bophut, opened in 2018, and a larger 25-acre site at Chaweng Noi. Recognised by World Animal Protection as a Best Practice Elephant Venue, it offers no riding, no shows and no bullhooks. Visitors feed the elephants, walk alongside them and watch them socialise in a genuinely natural setting. Book ahead online — walk-ins are not accepted.
- 📍 Location (Bophut): 43/2 Taweerat Pakdee Road, Bophut, Koh Samui
- 📍 Location (Chaweng Noi): Chaweng Noi, east Koh Samui
- 🌐 Website: samuielephantsanctuary.org
- 📞 Telephone: +66 95 269 8343
- 🕐 Sessions: Morning 9:00 AM – 12:00 PM; Afternoon 2:00 PM – 5:00 PM; hotel transfers included
- 💰 Fees: Adults ฿3,000 · Children (under 11) ฿1,500 · Under 4s free
Getting to and Around Koh Samui
✈️ Getting to Koh Samui by Air
Koh Samui International Airport (USM) is one of Thailand’s more unusual arrival experiences — a boutique open-air terminal tucked into the palm trees on the island’s north-east coast, owned and operated by Bangkok Airways rather than the Thai government. That private ownership shapes everything about flying here: the experience is calm, swift and pleasantly tropical, with immigration and baggage collection typically done in under twenty minutes — but it also means that Bangkok Airways controls which other airlines can serve the island, keeping competition limited and fares higher than on comparable domestic routes.
The great majority of international visitors arrive via Bangkok. Bangkok Airways operates twelve to fifteen daily flights from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK), making the connection straightforward, with Thai Airways also offering code-share services on the same route. One-way fares typically range from around THB 3,500 to THB 8,000 depending on the season and how far ahead you book, with December and January commanding the highest prices. There are also a handful of direct international services, including flights from Kuala Lumpur. Book as early as possible to secure the better fares, particularly around Thai public holidays and the weeks surrounding the Full Moon Party on nearby Koh Phangan.
- Airport: Koh Samui International Airport (USM), north-east coast near Chaweng
- Main airline: Bangkok Airways — bangkokair.com
- Booking comparison: 12go.asia | Skyscanner
⛴️ Getting to Koh Samui by Ferry and Bus Combination
The budget-conscious alternative to flying is to travel to Koh Samui via Surat Thani on the mainland and take the ferry across. It takes considerably longer than flying — typically three to four hours door to door from Surat Thani — but costs a fraction of the price and is a perfectly comfortable way to arrive, particularly on one of the high-speed catamarans.
Several operators offer combined minivan-and-ferry packages that pick passengers up directly from Surat Thani Airport or the train and bus stations, ferry them to the pier at Donsak, and then cross the Gulf of Thailand to Koh Samui’s Nathon Pier. The main piers on the island are Nathon Pier on the west coast (the main terminal for mainland arrivals), Bangrak Pier (also called Big Buddha Pier) on the north-east coast, and Maenam Pier, which also handles inter-island routes.
Lomprayah High Speed Ferries is the most popular operator, using fast catamarans with air-conditioned cabins and a luggage-loading service — useful for families. Their Surat Thani Airport to Koh Samui packages run from around THB 850 per person and the ferry crossing itself takes approximately one hour to one hour fifteen minutes. In high season and around Full Moon Party dates, Lomprayah ferries can sell out in advance, so booking ahead is strongly advised.
Seatran Ferry and Raja Ferry offer similar combined services, with the conventional Raja car ferries (which can transport vehicles) taking around one hour thirty minutes for the sea crossing from Donsak Pier.
- Lomprayah: lomprayah.com
- Seatran Ferry: seatranferry.com
- Booking comparison: 12go.asia | directferries.com
- Fares: From around THB 850–950 per person (foot passenger) for the combined Surat Thani Airport to Koh Samui journey
🚢 Island-Hopping by Ferry (Koh Phangan and Koh Tao)
Koh Samui is the natural jumping-off point for the two other main islands in the Gulf of Thailand, and regular ferries make both an easy addition to any itinerary. Services depart primarily from Bangrak Pier (Big Buddha Pier) and Maenam Pier on the north coast.
To Koh Phangan: Multiple operators run frequent daily crossings, with the fastest high-speed catamarans covering the short hop in around thirty minutes. Lomprayah catamarans run from THB 350 per adult; the slower but charming Haad Rin Queen Ferry charges around THB 200 and can also transport motorbikes. There are around twenty-six daily departures in total across all operators.
To Koh Tao: The crossing takes approximately one hour forty-five minutes by high-speed catamaran. Lomprayah fares start from around THB 700 per adult; standard ferry options run from THB 550. Koh Tao is a world-class diving destination, and most operators include early-morning departures to make the most of a day trip or overnight visit.
- Lomprayah: lomprayah.com
- Seatran: seatranferry.com
- Booking: ferrysamui.com | 12go.asia
🚕 Taxis
Taxis are the most widely used way of getting around Koh Samui and are readily available at the airport, at the main piers, and in the busy beach areas of Chaweng, Lamai, Bophut and Maenam. Unlike taxis in Bangkok, Koh Samui’s cabs do not use meters — fares are fixed per journey and negotiated in advance, so always agree the price before getting in. Rates from the airport vary by destination but typically range from around THB 400 for the short run to Chaweng to THB 800 or more for the southern beaches.
Many tour operators and hotels include pick-up and drop-off in their bookings, which removes the need to arrange a separate taxi for day trips and longer excursions — a useful option to look for when booking activities.
📱 Grab and inDriver (Ride-Hailing Apps)
Grab — Thailand’s equivalent of Uber — operates on Koh Samui and offers a useful alternative to negotiating roadside fares, with prices agreed upfront in the app. It is worth noting, however, that Grab on Koh Samui often works out slightly more expensive than a negotiated taxi fare, and availability can be limited outside the main tourist areas, so it is not always the instant fix it is in Bangkok. Ordering well in advance, particularly for airport transfers, is advisable.
inDriver is a newer ride-hailing alternative on the island that frequently undercuts Grab on price and is worth downloading as a backup option. Note that neither Grab nor inDriver currently operates reliably for pick-up inside Koh Samui Airport itself, so airport arrivals are best handled by the official taxi counter in arrivals.
- Grab: grab.com
- inDriver: indriver.com
🛻 Songthaews
A songthaew — the name translates roughly as “two benches” — is a covered pick-up truck with bench seating in the back and a bell or buzzer to signal your stop, and it is Koh Samui’s closest equivalent to a public bus. They run along the main ring road (Route 4169) and some of the major connecting roads, following loose routes rather than rigid timetables, with the driver ultimately deciding where they are headed — always ask before climbing in. Fares for tourists are typically around THB 50–150 per person depending on distance, making songthaews the cheapest way to cover short to medium distances along the ring road. They become less frequent after 8pm and largely disappear after 10pm, so late-night journeys need other arrangements.
Songthaews do not serve the airport, so they are best used for moving between beaches and towns rather than as an arrival or departure option. They can also be chartered privately for a negotiated flat fare, which works out well for small groups wanting to cover the same route as a shared ride.
🚗 Rental Car
Hiring a car gives the most flexibility for exploring Koh Samui independently, and the island’s main ring road — 51 kilometres of mostly flat, well-surfaced tarmac — makes it straightforward to navigate. Rental counters are available at the airport and in the main beach areas, with compact cars typically starting from around THB 1,000–1,500 per day. Driving is on the left, as in the UK.
A valid national driving licence is required, and an International Driving Permit (IDP) is strongly recommended — it is technically required under Thai law and will be expected in the event of a police stop or an insurance claim. IDP applications are available through the AA and the RAC for UK drivers, usually cost around £5.50, and are issued on the same day.
- Rental comparison: rentalcars.com | 12go.asia
🛵 Scooter and Motorbike Rental
Scooters are the transport of choice for many independent visitors and the most affordable way to cover the island at your own pace, with a standard Honda Click 125cc available from around THB 200–350 per day from rental shops in Chaweng, Lamai and Bophut. Larger automatics such as the Yamaha NMAX run from around THB 350–450 per day.
The same licence requirements apply as for car rental: a valid home driving licence with motorcycle entitlement, plus an IDP with a motorcycle endorsement, are both required under Thai law and expected during routine police checks, which are common on the island. Riding without the correct documentation risks fines, scooter confiscation, and potentially invalidated travel insurance. Always inspect the scooter before setting off and ask the rental shop to share a video of any pre-existing damage — standard practice among reputable operators.
The ring road’s hilly section between Chaweng and Lamai deserves particular care, and riding after dark or in wet conditions is best avoided. Helmets are legally required and available from rental shops; wearing one properly is non-negotiable.
🚲 Bicycle
Bicycle rental is available in the main beach areas and is best suited to leisurely rides within a single neighbourhood rather than tackling the full ring road, where traffic, heat and the hills between Chaweng and Lamai make it a serious undertaking. It is a pleasant option for a morning explore along the flat northern coast around Maenam and Bophut, or for covering the short distances within Chaweng itself.
🗺️ Getting Around — Practical Notes
There is no meaningful public bus network on Koh Samui beyond the songthaews, and the airport has no bus service at all, which makes having a plan for your first transfer more important than on most Thai islands. Arranging an airport or pier transfer with your accommodation in advance is the most stress-free option, particularly for late arrivals or anyone travelling with children and luggage. Pre-booking ferry tickets — especially with Lomprayah in high season — is equally advisable, as sailings can sell out, particularly in the weeks around the Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan.
Vegan Dining in Koh Samui
Koh Samui has become a surprisingly strong destination for plant-based eating, with a growing mix of committed vegan restaurants, wellness cafés and Buddhist Jay buffets spread across the island’s main beach areas.
🌿 Halapua Restaurant
Koh Samui’s most ambitious fully plant-based fine-dining experience, set within the Kapuhala wellness retreat above Bo Phut and dining beside an infinity pool with sweeping sea views. The menu fuses Sicilian cooking with locally grown produce from the on-site farm — think polpette in tomato sauce, layers of parmigiana, and seasonal tasting menus that change with what’s growing. Reservations are essential and the three-course lunch includes pool access until 7 pm.
- Location: 104/86 Moo 3, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320
- Website: kapuhalasamui.com/halapua-restaurant
- Phone: Not publicly listed — book via the website
- Opening hours:
- Tuesday–Sunday, lunch service 11:30 am–7:00 pm
- By reservation only; closed Mondays
🍜 Noodles Now
A fully vegan restaurant in Bo Phut that goes well beyond its name, serving Thai tapas alongside creative noodle dishes that reimagine classics such as khao soi, massaman and pad krapow in noodle form. Chiang Mai sausage, curry puffs and fried chive cakes feature on the tapas list, alongside cocktails, craft beer and homemade ginger beer. The open kitchen and relaxed bar atmosphere make it one of the more sociable spots on the island.
- Location: 9/62 Moo 2, Bo Phut, Koh Samui District, Surat Thani 84320
- Website: noodles-now.asia
- Phone: Not publicly listed — contact via website
- Opening hours:
- Daily 2:00 pm–9:00 pm; closed Tuesdays
🌱 Greenlight Café & Bar
A health-conscious café and resort in Fisherman’s Village, Bophut, with a strong vegan and gluten-free menu built largely from organic, locally sourced ingredients — many grown in the café’s own garden. Smoothie bowls, fresh juices, vegan breakfast plates and Thai mains are served throughout the day, and guests (including diners) have access to the swimming pool. Regular yoga classes, dance sessions and wellness events help make it a genuine community hub as much as a place to eat.
- Location: 3/28 Moo 1, Fisherman’s Village, Bophut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320
- Website: greenlightsamui.com
- Phone: +66 87 389 5673
- Opening hours:
- Daily 8:00 am–10:00 pm (breakfast buffet 8:00–11:00 am; full menu from 11:00 am; kitchen closes at 10:00 pm)
🍛 Lamai Veggie
A beloved one-woman operation run by Khun Bee — reputedly the first vegan restaurant to open in Lamai, over 15 years ago — serving a daily changing set menu of Thai-inspired plant-based dishes that might include rice, salad, roti, soup, curry and vegan desserts, all made from scratch each morning. Portions are generous, prices are among the most affordable on the island, and the warm, personal service is cited by almost every visitor as the highlight of the experience. A Jay (Buddhist vegan) restaurant in the truest sense.
- Location: 138/14 Moo 4, Maret, Koh Samui District, Surat Thani 84310
- Website: facebook.com/LamaiVeggie
- Phone: Not publicly listed
- Opening hours:
- Monday–Friday 12:00 pm–3:30 pm; closed weekends (hours can vary — call ahead or check Facebook)
🏖️ KOA Dining
Set within the beachfront Tolani Koh Samui Resort on Lamai Beach, KOA is a predominantly plant-based restaurant that doubles as a daycation destination: day-pass holders get pool and beach access, with the cost redeemable against food and drinks. The menu spans vegan khao soi, mushroom tempura, watermelon salads and a vegan carbonara, with a more refined dinner service as the sun goes down. Non-resort guests are also welcome to dine without a day pass.
- Location: 442 Had Lamai Road, Maret, Koh Samui District, Surat Thani 84310
- Website: koadining.com
- Phone: Not publicly listed — contact via the website or Tolani Resort
- Opening hours:
- Daily 7:00 am–10:00 pm
🥗 Vikasa Life Café
Part of the Vikasa Yoga Retreat between Chaweng and Lamai, Vikasa Life Café is open to all — not just retreat guests — and serves an extensive menu of organic, largely plant-based dishes with sweeping sea views from its terrace. Raw zucchini spaghetti, quinoa cakes, superfood bowls, smoothies and freshly pressed juices make up the daytime menu, with brunch and dinner buffets served daily. The café co-founded by European raw food chefs and regularly appears on lists of the island’s most scenic places to eat.
- Location: 211 Moo 4, Bontji, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84310
- Website: vikasa.com/life-cafe
- Phone: +66 77 422 232
- Opening hours:
- Daily 9:00 am–10:00 pm (brunch buffet 9:30–11:00 am; dinner buffet 6:30–8:00 pm)
🥬 MY Vegan Food Shop & Café
A charmingly unpretentious plant-based café operating from the grounds of Marga Yoga in Taling Ngam, on the quieter western side of the island. The kitchen makes almost everything in-house — vegan cheese, butter and meat alternatives — and serves them in burgers, lasagne, vegan omelettes, cheese boards and “meat” platters alongside a full breakfast menu. Adults-only (no children permitted, in keeping with the yoga centre setting), and tucked away enough that it rewards the drive out.
- Location: 276/1 Moo 3, Taling Ngam, Koh Samui District, Surat Thani 84140
- Website: myveganfoodshop.com
- Phone: Not publicly listed — contact via the website
- Opening hours:
- Check the website or Facebook for current hours, as these vary by season
The Best Time to Visit Thailand
Thailand’s climate is more complex than most, and the single most important thing to understand before planning a trip is that the country has two distinct coastlines — the Andaman Sea to the west and the Gulf of Thailand to the east — which follow opposite monsoon cycles. When the Andaman side is being battered by the south-west monsoon between June and October, the Gulf coast around Koh Samui and Koh Phangan is largely dry. When the north-east monsoon swings in from November, the situation reverses. Bangkok and the north operate on a third rhythm of their own. Getting that geography straight is the key to avoiding a soggy fortnight.
🌞 November to February — Cool & Dry Season
This is Thailand at its most comfortable and, not coincidentally, its most visited. The south-west monsoon has retreated, the north-east monsoon brings dry, cooler air down from China, and the result across most of the country is warm, sunny days with low humidity and pleasantly cool evenings — particularly in Chiang Mai and the northern highlands, where temperatures can drop to 15°C or below overnight in January. The Andaman coast — Phuket, Koh Lanta, the Phi Phi Islands, Krabi — is fully open and at its most inviting, with calm, clear seas ideal for snorkelling and island-hopping. Bangkok is at its most walkable. The trade-off is straightforward: this is also the most expensive and most crowded window of the year, with accommodation on the popular islands booking out months ahead around Christmas and New Year.
Packing: Lightweight breathable clothing for the days, a light layer or thin long-sleeved shirt for cooler northern evenings and air-conditioned transport, swimwear, reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, sandals and a smarter pair of shoes for evenings out.
🌶️ March to May — Hot Season
The coolness of January fades quickly into an often ferocious heat that builds through March, peaks in April and only begins to ease with the first pre-monsoon storms in May. Temperatures in Bangkok regularly hit 38–40°C, the air in Chiang Mai and the north becomes hazy with agricultural burning, and humidity climbs steadily. The saving grace is Songkran, Thailand’s exuberant water festival, which falls in mid-April and turns the streets of every city and town into a good-natured nationwide water fight — one of Southeast Asia’s great travel experiences, and worth timing a trip around specifically. Rates drop noticeably from the December–February peak, and some travellers find the heat manageable provided they plan outdoor activity for early mornings and evenings. By May, the first Andaman resorts begin closing for the low season as the south-west monsoon approaches.
Packing: The lightest, most breathable clothing you own, a refillable water bottle, high-SPF sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and a change of clothes for Songkran if travelling in April — you will get soaked regardless of your plans.
🌧️ June to October — South-West Monsoon
The south-west monsoon arrives in earnest from June, bringing heavy, sustained rainfall to the Andaman coast, the Gulf of Thailand’s western shores and much of the interior. Phuket, Krabi and the Andaman islands receive their heaviest rain of the year, seas turn rough, and several of the smaller island resorts close entirely between June and October. Bangkok floods periodically in September and October, when rainfall peaks. The Gulf coast, however — Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao — follows the opposite pattern and stays comparatively dry through this period, making it the right side of the country to base a beach trip. The north and inland areas receive regular rain but often in short, intense afternoon bursts rather than all-day downpours, and the countryside is extraordinarily lush. Prices across most of Thailand drop to their lowest, and popular destinations feel genuinely quiet.
Packing: Quick-dry clothing, a lightweight waterproof jacket or compact poncho, waterproof sandals, a dry bag for boat trips and electronics, insect repellent, and a flexible itinerary that can bend around weather disruptions.
🌀 November — North-East Monsoon (Gulf Coast)
November sits in a transitional position that deserves separate mention. For most of Thailand, it marks the beginning of the best season — the Andaman coast reopens, Bangkok cools and dries, and Chiang Mai starts to feel wonderful. But the north-east monsoon, which is bringing all that dry, pleasant weather to the rest of the country, simultaneously pushes rain onto the Gulf coast, and Koh Samui and Koh Phangan see some of their heaviest rainfall of the year in November. Flooding can be significant, and a handful of years have seen the Samui airport disrupted. Anyone with the Gulf islands on their itinerary in November would do well to adjust either their timing or their destination.
Packing: Similar to the cool and dry season for most of Thailand — light layers and sun protection — but with a waterproof jacket and a contingency plan if travelling to the Gulf coast.
Overall Best Time
November to February is the easiest answer for most visitors: the weather is at its most reliable, the widest range of destinations is fully accessible, and Thailand in the cool season has a particular lightness to it that is difficult to argue against. For the Andaman coast specifically — Phuket, Krabi, the Phi Phi Islands — December to March is the undisputed prime window. Travellers who want the Gulf islands and can travel outside peak season should target February to April, when the Gulf coast is dry, the Andaman is still perfectly good, and the worst of the heat has not yet arrived. Those happy to follow the sun around the peninsula’s two coastlines, and who plan accordingly, can piece together an excellent trip in virtually any month of the year.
Where to Stay in Koh Samui?
🏖️ Chaweng Beach
Chaweng is Koh Samui’s beating heart — a long, sweeping arc of white sand on the island’s east coast that draws the lion’s share of visitors for good reason. The beach itself is postcard-perfect, lined with sun loungers and fringed by the kind of clear, turquoise water that earns a destination its reputation, while the strip running parallel behind it offers every kind of restaurant, bar, rooftop venue and night market you could want within easy walking distance. It is the liveliest and best-connected base on the island, well suited to first-time visitors who want everything on the doorstep — though those in search of quiet should be aware that Chaweng’s central section can be genuinely noisy after dark, particularly on weekends.
- 🌟 Samui Buri Beach Resort (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — An elegant beachfront retreat with private pool villas, lush tropical gardens and a spa set directly on Chaweng’s quieter northern stretch.
- 🏨 Chaweng Regent Beach Resort (⭐⭐⭐) — A well-regarded mid-range resort with a genuine beachfront position, two pools and a consistently high rating for value and friendliness of staff.
- 🛏️ Chill Inn Chaweng Hostel and Cafe — A clean, well-run hostel a two-minute walk from Chaweng Beach with air-conditioned dorms, a sociable café on site and an 8.6 rating that reflects reliably friendly staff and a prime central location.
🌴 Lamai Beach
Lamai is Koh Samui’s second-largest beach and, for many visitors, the more appealing alternative to Chaweng — wide, handsome and backed by a strip of restaurants, bars and shops that is lively enough to keep things interesting without ever quite tipping into the frenetic energy of its northern neighbour. The beach itself has a slightly rockier character at its southern end, where the famous Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks draw a steady stream of curious visitors, but the central and northern stretches offer some of the cleanest, least crowded sand on the island. It is a particularly good base for families and couples who want proximity to facilities without committing fully to Chaweng’s party scene.
- 🌟 Banyan Tree Samui (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — One of the island’s most celebrated luxury resorts, with private infinity-pool villas perched above a secluded stretch of Lamai Bay, a world-class spa and a 9.4 rating built on exceptional staff and meticulous attention to detail.
- 🏨 OUTRIGGER Koh Samui Beach Resort (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — A handsome colonial-style resort sitting directly on Lamai Beach with two pools, a swim-up bar, a children’s club and a reputation for particularly warm and helpful staff at a price point well below the island’s top-tier luxury properties.
- 🛏️ The Rock Samui Poshtel Lamai Beach — A cut above a standard hostel, with an infinity pool, private beach area and a mix of dorms and private rooms that earns it a devoted following among solo travellers and couples seeking good value on the quieter southern edge of Lamai.
🌺 Bophut (Fisherman’s Village)
Bophut sits on the island’s quieter north coast and centres on Fisherman’s Village, a preserved stretch of old Chinese shophouses turned boutique galleries, independent restaurants and atmospheric bars that gives this corner of Koh Samui a character entirely its own. The beach here is narrower and calmer than Chaweng or Lamai — more paddling than surfing — but the trade-off is a genuinely unhurried pace, excellent seafood and one of the island’s best weekly markets, the Fisherman’s Village Walking Street, which takes over the main road every Friday evening. It is the natural choice for travellers who prefer charm and character over facilities and nightlife, and it suits couples and repeat visitors particularly well.
- 🌟 Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — A refined five-star retreat set directly on Bophut Beach within walking distance of Fisherman’s Village, with beautifully landscaped tropical gardens, a large beachfront pool and the kind of seamless, warm service that earns it consistently outstanding guest scores.
- 🏨 ibis Samui Bophut (⭐⭐⭐) — A reliable, beach-adjacent three-star option positioned directly beside the sand in a quiet location, with modern rooms, a pool, a restaurant and over 2,000 reviews that reflect solid value and friendly staff.
- 🛏️ HOST’S EL Fisherman — A bright, well-maintained hostel a five-minute walk from Bophut Beach and a short stroll from Fisherman’s Village, praised by guests for its spotless facilities, welcoming atmosphere and genuinely helpful hosts.
🌊 Mae Nam
Mae Nam is the least-developed of Koh Samui’s main beach areas, stretching along a long, gently curving bay on the north coast that catches cool breezes off the Gulf of Thailand and sees a fraction of the crowds that descend on Chaweng or even Bophut just along the road. The beach is wide, shaded by casuarina trees and ideal for a morning run or an undisturbed afternoon with a book, and the small village behind it offers enough in the way of local restaurants, massage shops and minimarkets to be self-contained without feeling overly touristy. It is the right base for visitors who genuinely want to slow down, and it has a particular following among long-stay travellers and families with young children.
- 🌟 Santiburi Koh Samui (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — A long-established luxury resort set within extensive, manicured grounds on Mae Nam Beach, with a championship golf course, a full-service spa, a huge beachfront pool and a 9.1 rating underpinned by superb breakfasts and attentive personal service.
- 🏨 Fair House Villas & Spa (⭐⭐⭐⭐) — A tranquil beachfront resort with spacious, individually furnished villas, a private beach, a pool and an 8.8 guest score that consistently highlights the exceptional staff and the peaceful setting well away from the island’s busier tourist areas.
- 🛏️ Blockhouse Samui — A relaxed, community-spirited hostel run by a warmly welcoming host a short walk from Mae Nam Beach, with an excellent on-site Thai kitchen, clean private rooms and dorms, and an 8.9 rating driven by one of the friendliest atmospheres on the island.
🛥️ Choeng Mon
Choeng Mon occupies the island’s north-eastern tip, a compact, sheltered bay with a small but perfectly formed beach that feels considerably more exclusive than its relatively modest size might suggest. The water here is consistently calm and clear, the beach is rarely crowded even at peak season, and the small cluster of upscale resorts and restaurants that surround it give Choeng Mon something of a private-island feel despite being less than twenty minutes from Chaweng by road. It is a natural choice for honeymooners and couples after a more secluded experience, and its position makes it easy to combine the tranquillity of Choeng Mon with day trips to Chaweng or Big Buddha when the mood for something livelier strikes.
- 🌟 The Ritz-Carlton, Koh Samui (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Set across 58 acres of Choeng Mon headland, this flagship luxury resort combines clifftop pool villas with a private beach, a hilltop bar and a level of service consistent with the brand’s global reputation, rated 8.8 by guests on Booking.com.
- 🏨 SALA Samui Choengmon Beach Resort (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — A boutique-luxury property with an 80-metre private beach, two beachfront pools, outdoor-bathroom villas and a 9.4 guest score — one of the highest on the island — that reflects exceptional food, flawless service and a genuinely intimate atmosphere.
- 🛏️ Hi Samui Hostel — A freshly renovated hostel a three-minute walk from Choeng Mon Beach with clean dorms and private rooms, a bar, on-site restaurant and a lively but laid-back atmosphere that makes it the obvious budget choice in this otherwise upscale corner of the island.
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