Kinabalu Park established as one of the first national parks of Malaysia in 1964, is Malaysia's first World Heritage Site designated by UNESCO in December 2000 for its "outstanding universal values" and the role as one of the most important biological sites in the world.
Malaysia: Sabah – Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre
🐻 The Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, Sepilok
Just across the road from the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in Sepilok sat another place well worth your time — the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. We hadn’t really planned on visiting, if I’m honest. We’d come for the orangutans. But there it was, right opposite, so we thought, well, why not. Turns out it was rather brilliant.
🌞 So What Exactly Is a Sun Bear?
The sun bear holds a rather unfortunate collection of records. It was the smallest bear in the world, the most tree-dwelling, and — perhaps most tellingly — the least studied. Scientists apparently hadn’t got around to paying it much attention. Second rarest bear on the planet, pipped only by the giant panda, and yet most people we spoke to had never even heard of it. Cheers, wildlife documentaries.
The name came from that distinctive pale, horseshoe-shaped patch on their chest — a bit like someone had spilled a cup of tea on them and it dried in an interesting shape. What made this genuinely fascinating was that no two sun bears shared the same chest pattern. Each one was completely unique, which meant keepers and researchers could tell individual bears apart just by looking at their chests. Rather more dignified than ear tags, we thought.
Physically, they were built for the forest. Their claws were extraordinarily long — almost absurdly so — perfectly designed for two jobs: digging up invertebrates from rotting logs and soil, which formed a large and important part of their diet, and hauling themselves up trees with impressive speed and confidence. They were, by all accounts, exceptional climbers. Then there was the tongue. Twenty to twenty-five centimetres long. We’d seen some things on this trip, but a bear with a tongue the length of a school ruler, deployed specifically to raid beehives for honey, was something else entirely. They lived exclusively in the tropical lowland forests of Southeast Asia — the only bear species to do so — and were, unlike their northern cousins, not inclined toward hibernation. Instead, they built sleeping nests up in the trees. Omnivores by nature, they ate invertebrates, fruit, and honey, which sounded like a perfectly reasonable diet to us.
⚠️ Why They Were in Trouble
The sun bear was listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List, and had been since 2007, with population numbers continuing to decline. The reasons were, depressingly, familiar.
The single greatest threat had been the systematic destruction of their habitat. Borneo had lost enormous tracts of its ancient lowland forest — the very ecosystem sun bears depended on — to logging operations, both legal and decidedly not, and to the relentless expansion of palm oil plantations. Malaysia and Indonesia together produced around 85 percent of the world’s palm oil, and the environmental cost of that had been staggering. The forests that remained were fragmented, isolated, and increasingly inadequate for a species that needed large, intact territories to survive.
Then came the hunting. Sun bears were poached primarily for two things: their gall bladders, which fetched considerable sums in the trade supplying Chinese folk medicine — bile from bear gall bladders had been used in traditional remedies for centuries, prescribed for everything from liver complaints to fevers — and their paws, which appeared on restaurant menus in parts of China and Vietnam as an expensive delicacy. Bear paw soup, should you be wondering, could cost the equivalent of hundreds of pounds per bowl. In China and Vietnam, bear bile farming had become a grim industry of its own, with bears held in crushingly small cages and bile extracted while the animals were still alive. The bears didn’t last long under these conditions, so they were routinely replaced. Killing sun bears was illegal in every country where they were native — Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Myanmar, and others — but enforcement was, to put it charitably, patchy.
Finally — and this one was almost too depressing — the bears suffered for being rather adorable. Small, big-eyed, and seemingly placid, they’d been captured in significant numbers for the pet trade and for display in small, poorly resourced local zoos, where the conditions were often quite dreadful.
🌿 The Conservation Centre
The Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre was founded in 2008 by Wong Siew Te, a Malaysian wildlife biologist who had spent years studying sun bears and concluded that someone really ought to do something about the situation. He was right. The centre sat on 44 acres of forest reserve adjacent to the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve and served two core purposes: the rehabilitation of sun bears rescued from captivity, and the education of visitors about what was happening to the species. Bears arriving at the centre — confiscated from illegal owners, rescued from bile farms, or brought in from zoos that could no longer keep them — went through a structured rehabilitation programme before, where possible, being released back into the wild.
🕷️ Our Visit — Storm Damage and a Terrifying Spider
We visited just a couple of days after a significant storm had blown through the area, and the place was still showing the evidence. Several of the enclosures had sustained damage, and sections of the raised boardwalk and observation platforms that allowed visitors to walk through the forest canopy had been put out of action. We’d been slightly worried we’d have made the journey for nothing — which would have been deeply on-brand for this sort of trip — but fortunately the main observation area had escaped the worst of it, and we were able to get in and watch several of the bears going about their business below us.
We never even made it to the bears straightaway, though, because before we’d got twenty metres into the place, our guide stopped dead. He’d spotted a spider. Not a small, polite spider. A large, hairy, deeply unsettling spider, sitting in what appeared to be a completely deliberate and threatening manner on a piece of vegetation at the side of the path. What followed was approximately ten minutes — we timed it — during which our guide and his colleague argued with great animation and apparent expertise about the precise genus of the animal in front of them. We stood at a respectful distance and contributed nothing useful to this discussion, because frankly all we cared about was that it was big, hairy, and scary, and that it was over there and we were over here, and we were very much in favour of keeping that arrangement in place.
Eventually we managed to peel our guide away from his eight-legged discovery — no mean feat, given how invested he’d become in the great genus debate — and got ourselves over to see the actual bears, which was, after all, the point of the exercise.
At the time of our visit, the centre was home to 44 sun bears in total, which struck us as both impressive and slightly sobering when you thought about how each of them had ended up there. We were lucky enough to spot around half a dozen of them moving around their enclosure with what appeared to be considerable purpose, nosing through the undergrowth, turning over bits of bark, and generally getting on with the serious business of foraging for food. They were, we had to admit, absolutely captivating to watch.
The centre’s ultimate ambition, where circumstances allowed, was to return the bears to the wild. This wasn’t simply a case of opening a gate and wishing them luck, however. The rehabilitation process was thorough and carefully structured, working with each bear individually to rebuild — or in some cases build from scratch — the practical skills they’d need to survive independently in the forest. Foraging, climbing trees, constructing sleeping nests, and basic self-defence all featured on the curriculum. What made the centre genuinely unique was that it was the only facility in the world offering rehabilitation candidates the opportunity to acclimatise to actual forest conditions before release — a sort of extended dress rehearsal for the wild, which seemed like an eminently sensible approach and made us wonder why everywhere else hadn’t thought of it.
The harder truth, though, was that not every bear was going to make it back out there. Some had arrived having spent years in conditions that had left them too psychologically damaged for release ever to be a realistic prospect. For these bears, the centre provided a permanent home — properly resourced, properly managed, and about as far removed from a bile farm cage or a concrete zoo enclosure as it was possible to get. It wasn’t the ending anyone would have chosen for them, but it was, at least, a decent one.
Planning Your Trip
🐻 Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC)
| 📍 Location | Sepilok-Kabili Forest Reserve, PPM 219, Elopura, 90000 Sandakan, Sabah | 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 9:00 AM – 3:30 PM |
| 🌐 Website | bsbcc.org.my | 📞 Phone | +60 89-534491 |
| info@bsbcc.org.my |
✈️ Getting There
| ✈️ By Air | Fly to Sandakan Airport (SDK) from Kota Kinabalu (45 mins) or Kuala Lumpur. Airlines include AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines | 🚕 Airport to BSBCC | Taxi or Grab from Sandakan Airport direct to Sepilok — approx. 30–40 mins, RM40 |
| 🚌 By Bus from Sandakan | “Batu 14 Sepilok” bus from Sandakan bus terminal (near the Navy base) — 45 mins, RM6. Departs 9:00 AM, 11:30 AM, 2:00 PM & 5:00 PM | 🚌 By Bus from KK | Express bus from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan — approx. 8 hours, RM40–50. Ask driver to stop at Sepilok. Book via Easybook.com |
| 🚗 By Taxi/Grab | Grab is available from Sandakan town — approx. 20–30 mins, RM30–50 | 🅿️ Parking | Free on-site parking available |
ℹ️ BSBCC shares the main gate with the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, which is directly opposite. Roads from Sandakan are well signposted.
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Foreign Adults | Foreign Children (2–17) | Under 2s | Professional Camera (500mm+ lens) |
|---|---|---|---|
| RM50 | RM25 | Free | RM1,000 |
ℹ️ All proceeds go directly towards sun bear rescue and conservation. Payment by cash, card, or mobile payment accepted.
Entry fees and transport fares are subject to change; visitors are advised to confirm current details before their visit.
Best time to visit Sabah, Borneo
🌞 Dry Season — March to October (Peak Time)
For the majority of travellers, the dry season represents the most appealing window to visit Malaysian Borneo. From approximately March through to October, both Sabah and Sarawak enjoy relatively lower rainfall, calmer seas, and longer stretches of sunny weather. This is when the region truly comes into its own.
In Sabah, this period is ideal for climbing Mount Kinabalu, as cloud cover is thinner in the early morning and summit views are far clearer. Diving and snorkelling around the islands of Sipadan, Mabul, and Lankayan reach peak conditions between April and September, when visibility underwater can exceed 30 metres. Turtle nesting and hatching activity at Turtle Islands Park is also at its most reliable during these months. Wildlife watching in the Kinabatangan River corridor is excellent, as lower water levels concentrate animals along the riverbanks, making orangutan, pygmy elephant, and proboscis monkey sightings more predictable.
In Sarawak, the dry season opens up the national parks in full. Trekking in Gunung Mulu National Park becomes far more manageable, with trail conditions at their best. Longhouse visits along the Rejang and Skrang rivers are more easily arranged, and boat journeys on these rivers are safer and more comfortable. The famous Rainforest World Music Festival, held annually in Kuching in July, falls squarely within this window and draws visitors from across the globe.
The months of July and August represent the absolute peak of tourist activity. Accommodation books up quickly, particularly around Sipadan (which operates a strict daily permit quota) and in Kota Kinabalu. Booking several months in advance is strongly advised for this period.
What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing in moisture-wicking fabrics, a light waterproof jacket for afternoon showers, UV-protective swimwear and a rash vest for snorkelling and diving, high-factor reef-safe sunscreen, insect repellent containing DEET, sturdy waterproof trekking boots with ankle support, a dry bag for river and boat excursions, a compact head torch for early-morning wildlife walks, and electrolyte tablets for hydration on mountain hikes.
🌧️ North-East Monsoon — November to February (Wet Season, East Coast)
The north-east monsoon sweeps in from the South China Sea between November and February, bringing heavy and sustained rainfall primarily to the east coast of Sabah and to much of Sarawak. This is considered the low season, and while the weather presents genuine challenges, it also carries its own rewards for the flexible traveller.
On Sabah’s east coast — including the Semporna Archipelago and Sandakan — seas can be rough and dive operators frequently suspend trips to the outer islands. Sipadan permits become easier to obtain, and accommodation prices drop noticeably. However, many dive resorts and liveaboards close entirely during the worst weeks of November and December, so confirming operations in advance is essential.
Inland and at elevation, the wet season actually keeps the rainforest lush and extraordinarily alive. The Danum Valley and Maliau Basin — among Borneo’s most pristine wilderness areas — remain accessible, and the reduced visitor numbers lend the experience a particular intimacy. Leech socks become non-negotiable in the forest during these wetter months, but wildlife encounters can be just as rewarding.
Kota Kinabalu itself, on Sabah’s west coast, is somewhat sheltered from the north-east monsoon and remains a viable base throughout this period. The city’s restaurants, night markets, and cultural attractions are enjoyable regardless of season.
In Sarawak, Kuching receives increased rainfall but functions well as a city destination. The Sarawak Museum and its annexes, the waterfront, and the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (home to semi-wild orangutans) all operate year-round. The Bako National Park, accessible by boat from Kuching, remains open and offers some of the best proboscis monkey viewing in the world even during the wet season.
Chinese New Year, which falls in January or February depending on the lunar calendar, brings vibrant celebrations to Kuching, Kota Kinabalu, and Sibu. The atmosphere is festive and colourful, though some businesses close for several days around the main holiday.
What to pack: Quick-dry clothing and trousers, a high-quality waterproof poncho or rain jacket (not merely water-resistant), sealed waterproof bags for electronics, leech-proof socks and gaiters for jungle trekking, sandals that dry rapidly for wet conditions, a compact microfibre towel, anti-fungal foot powder, a portable umbrella, and a small first-aid kit with blister treatment.
🌊 South-West Monsoon — May to September (West Coast Wet, East Coast Dry)
The south-west monsoon, though generally gentler than its north-eastern counterpart, brings increased rainfall to the west coast of Sabah and to Sarawak’s interior from roughly May through to September. Importantly, this coincides with the dry season on the east coast, which is why the Sipadan diving season peaks during these very same months — the south-west monsoon barely affects the Celebes Sea.
For travellers focused on Kuching and Sarawak’s national parks, May through August can bring occasional heavy downpours in the afternoons, but mornings are frequently clear, and the overall conditions remain manageable for most activities. The Iban longhouses along Sarawak’s rivers are at their most welcoming during the Gawai Dayak harvest festival, celebrated on 1st and 2nd June each year. This is one of the most culturally immersive experiences Malaysian Borneo offers, and visitors fortunate enough to be invited to participate in the celebrations gain a rare insight into indigenous Dayak culture.
Trekking conditions in Mulu during this window are firm underfoot, and the cave systems — including Deer Cave and Lang’s Cave — are operational throughout the year.
What to pack: Lightweight long-sleeved shirts for sun and insect protection, a compact but packable rain jacket, sandal-style trekking footwear for river crossings, reef-safe sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat, a reusable water bottle with a filtration element, cultural gifts (such as small quality sweets or craft items) if visiting longhouses, a small padlock for guesthouse lockers, and anti-malarial medication if advised by your GP or travel clinic.
🌡️ Year-Round Considerations
Regardless of when you visit, certain conditions are constant in Malaysian Borneo. The heat and humidity are ever-present, making physical acclimatisation important on the first day or two. At altitude — particularly above 3,000 metres on Mount Kinabalu — temperatures can drop sharply at night, and thermal layers are necessary even in the driest months. Jellyfish blooms can affect coastal swimming at any time of year, so asking local advice before entering the sea is always prudent. Leeches are present in the forest year-round, increasing significantly after rainfall.
📋 Season Summary Table
🧳 Overall Best Time to Visit
If you can visit only once, the months of April, May, and early June represent the finest all-round window for Malaysian Borneo. The dry season is well established on the east coast, bringing excellent diving conditions around Sipadan and reliable wildlife watching along the Kinabatangan. Inland trekking in Danum Valley, Mulu, and on Mount Kinabalu is at its best, with manageable trails and lower risk of summit cloud. Crowds have not yet reached the intensity of July and August, meaning accommodation is easier to secure and permit queues are shorter. The heat is significant but no more extreme than any other month, and the landscape — fed by months of previous rain — is a deep, saturated green. Travellers with a particular interest in Sarawak’s indigenous festivals should target late May into early June to coincide with Gawai Dayak, an experience that elevates any trip to the region from memorable to genuinely transformative.
Where to stay?
1. Sepilok B&B
Nestled the rainforest edges of Sabah, Malaysian Borneo, Sepilok B&B has been welcoming budget-savvy wildlife lovers since 2006. Steps from the Rainforest Discovery Centre and just a short drive from the Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre, it’s hard to beat the location — you wake up to birdsong and fresh air, with the famous Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre practically on your doorstep. Rooms range from family chalets with balconies and garden views to more basic options, all keeping things affordable without sacrificing comfort. A complimentary local breakfast is served each morning, the on-site café is praised for its affordability, and staff are consistently described as friendly and full of local knowledge. It’s the kind of no-fuss base camp that wildlife enthusiasts dream about.
2. Nature Lodge Sepilok
Tucked into the lush edges of the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve in Sabah, Borneo, Sepilok Nature Lodge is a tranquil hideaway in a forest clearing, tastefully styled with bungalows dotted around dense foliage, boardwalks, and lakes. All 23 chalets feature verandas with beautiful lake or jungle views, and the resort’s main building — housing the restaurant — is built with a traditional wooden interior that reflects its natural surroundings. The beautifully landscaped gardens boast a remarkable collection of more than 150 different Asian orchid varieties. Best of all for wildlife enthusiasts, the lodge is just a five-minute walk from the famous Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center — meaning you might just wake up to an orangutan swinging through the trees outside your veranda. It’s the kind of place that makes you slow down, breathe in the rainforest air, and never want to leave.
3. Sepilok Jungle Resort
During our visit to Sepilok, we stayed at the Sepilok Jungle Resort, enclosed inside a tropical virgin rainforest, adjacent to the world-famous Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary. In fact, wild orangutans were visiting the Resort during our stay – we even saw one early in the morning walking around the boardwalks and apparently taking things from people’s balconies.
The rooms were basic but comfortable. The breakfasts were fine and they accommodated us being vegan. We also had an evening meal there which was traditional Malaysian fare – very tasty. The whole place is surrounded by rainforest, which is spectacular. In the evenings they run a night safari that goes out into the rainforest, which is a very noisy place at night with all the nocturnal creatures coming to life. We got to see some interesting bugs and birds on our adventure, including leeches … yuk!
In the evenings, they run a night safari that goes out into the rainforest, which is a very noisy place at night with all the nocturnal creatures coming to life.
The walk itself started close to the main lodge. Being in a rainforest means that the area gets more than its fair share of rain, so they have wellington boots you can borrow (I am a US size 13 … which proved to be challenging) as well as some very poor flashlights (or torches as our fellow Brits would say). As we waited for our group to gather we had a very unexpected treat, a young orangutan decided to build its nest in the tree right above our heads. We were told the attraction of this particular tree was its fruits, which were now fully ripe. It is obvious that orangutans don’t have any natural threats (apart from man) as they make one hell of a racket whilst building their bed for the night.
By the time we set off, it was pitch black. The dense jungle means that there is no natural light, so having flashlights with you is pretty much essential. The thing that really hits you the most is not the darkness but how really noisy the jungle is at night – there is a true cacophony of sounds emanating from all directions. If you are a light sleeper forget about having a good nights rest! During the tour, we got to see insects (pill millipedes and stick insects), invertebrates (leeches!), frogs and some small roosting tailorbirds.
At the end of the tour we did a leech check, and much to her horror Karen had two latched to her. One was on her jacket, and the other had managed to work its way onto her cleavage – I thought this was hilarious … she didn’t quite see the funny side.
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