Taman Ayun Temple is a magnificent 17th-century royal Balinese Hindu temple located in Mengwi that sits within a wide moat and forms part of UNESCO's recognised Cultural Landscape of Bali provincial heritage.
Indonesia: Java – Prambanan Temple
In 1814, the Dutch engineer HC Cornelius discovered in the Java jungle, in Indonesia, the ruins of a gigantic mandala, the impressive Borobudur temple, built between 780 and 830 AD by the Sailendra Buddhist dynasty.
After making our at the temple complex entrance Yuli handed us over to our guide for the afternoon, Eddy, who would be taking us around the main Hindu temple at Prambanan.
Prambanan has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991 and comprises the remains of some 244 temples. It is Indonesia’s largest Hindu site and one of Southeast Asia’s major attractions. The highlight is the central compound, where eight main and eight minor temples are assembled on a raised platform the highlight of which is Candi Shiva Mahadeva.
Extended over two centuries, the building at Prambanan commenced in the middle of the 9th century – around 50 years after Borobudur. The whole Prambanan Plain was abandoned when the Hindu-Javanese kings moved to East Java and, in the middle of the 16th century, a great earthquake toppled many of the temples. Prambanan remained in ruins for years, its demise accelerated by treasure hunters and locals searching for building materials. While efforts were made in 1885 to clear the site, it was not until 1937 that reconstruction was first attempted. Most temples have now been restored to some extent. Prambanan suffered extensive damage in the 2006 earthquake. Although the main temples survived, hundreds of stone blocks collapsed or were cracked (479 blocks in the Shiva temple alone). Today the main structures have been restored, but a lot of work remains to be done and parts of the complex are still off-limits.
In the main courtyard, Candi Shiva Mahadeva, dedicated to Shiva, is not only the largest of the temples but also the finest. The main spire soars 47m high and the temple is lavishly carved. The scenes carved onto the inner wall of the gallery encircling the temple are from the Ramayana.
The temple’s interior comprises a main chamber at the top of the eastern stairway with a four-armed statue of Shiva the Destroyer. The statue is notable for the fact that this mightiest of Hindu gods stands on a huge lotus pedestal, a symbol of Buddhism. In the southern cell is the potbellied and bearded Agastya, an incarnation of Shiva as a divine teacher; in the western cell is a superb image of the elephant-headed Ganesha, Shiva’s son, and the god of knowledge. Ganesha’s right hand, usually holding his ivory tusk, was broken off in the earthquake. In the northern cell, Durga, Shiva’s consort, can be seen killing the demon buffalo.
Candi Vishnu touches 33m and sits just north of Candi Shiva Mahadeva. The temple’s impressive reliefs tell the story of Lord Krishna, a hero of the Mahabharata epic, while a four-armed image of Vishnu the Preserver crowns the inner sanctum. Candi Brahma is Candi Vishnu’s twin temple. South of Candi Shiva Mahadeva, it is carved with the final scenes of the Ramayana.
Eddy was a fantastic guide. He had so much knowledge, not only about Prambanan’s history but also about Indonesia’s cultures, world affairs and different faiths. He has been a practising Muslim, Buddhist, and Christian at various times, and now claims to be a ‘Darwinist’. We had a lot of wide-ranging and interesting conversations as we headed around the temple buildings.
Once we were done, we said our goodbyes and headed towards the exit, which took us on a wide arc through the temple grounds.
Planning your visit to the Prambanan Temple
The distance between Yogyakarta and Candi Prambanan is only 16 km, and the journey takes 30-40 minutes, depending on traffic.
The Temple is located on the Solo – Yogya road at km 16. Yogya Solo road is a stretch of national road running from the center of Yogya to Solo. To get to this road you can head east in the Yogya outer ring road. Or follow the road eastward from Ambarrukmo Plaza. The temple is right on the edge of the road.
From Yogyakarta, take the Trans Jogja bus 1A from the Mangkubumi bus stop in Malioboro to the Prambanan bus terminal.
After arrival, you can cross the road to reach the temple in about 10 minutes. The Trans Jogja bus usually leaves every 15 minutes, depending on traffic.
The entrance ticket to Prambanan includes visiting Candi Sewu. You can get to Sewu, the furthest temple, by renting a bike for 10,000 IDR (0,65 USD) or a golf cart for 20,000 IDR
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Getting to and around Yogyakarta
Flying
Multiple airlines including Lion Air and AirAsia offer direct flights from Jakarta to Yogyakarta.
There’s only one airline that offers direct flights from Bandung to Yogyakarta, and that’s Lion Air. The flight takes a little over an hour.
A few airlines offer direct flights from the island of Bali to Yogyakarta, including AirAsia and Lion Air. The flight takes about an hour and a half.
Trains
If you aren’t in a rush, then a good alternative would be to travel by train. Personally, we prefer trains over flights. The scenery is better and it’s much cheaper. The train ride from Jakarta to Yogyakarta takes about 8 hours so you can do an overnight train if you wish. The journey from Bandung is around the same amount of time.
Bus
A third option is to go by bus which takes a little longer than traveling by train, about 9 hours from Jakarta.
Giwangan, Yogya’s main terminal for intercity buses, is about six kilometres south of the city centre. Frequent departures connect cities all over Java and to Bali and Sumatra (via ferry). Buses are classed as executive, VIP, patas, business or economy. All except economy class offer air-con. Executive and most VIP buses have toilets, include a meal and pillow and blanket. Executive, VIP and Patas are comfortable with reclining seats with a two-by-two configuration. Business class are no frills with two-by-three seat configuration. Economy have no air-con and little comfort, particularly for longer trips. Some bus drivers drive recklessly—don’t be afraid to get off a bus with a crazy driver.
Getting around Yogyakarta
Metered taxis are an inexpensive way to travel, however there can sometimes be traffic congestion. Note that Jalan Malioboro in the city is one-way only, so you may have to travel a roundabout route. Minimum fee is 20,000 rupiah. Some taxis refuse to use the meter, so just wait for one who will.
GoJek motorbike taxis are fast and less expensive than taxis. You will need to download the GoJek app and register to use.
Becak (pedicabs) are abundant. While scenic, these are not the vehicles to take if you are in a hurry, especially since drivers often detour unannounced to their friend’s batik workshops en route. It’s best to arrange a price first (a short trip in the Yogya town centre should be no more than 10,000 to 20,000 rupiah, even at tourist prices) and if you have several destinations in mind, you can rent a becak for several hours for a flat rate.
Andong (horse-drawn carts) are another local transport option, but beware of overloading the poor overworked nags.
Clean, air-con TransJogja buses follow set colour-coded and numbered routes that pass by several major tourist areas, including Jalan Malioboro, Prambanan temple, Giwangan bus terminal and the airport. Fares are a flat 3,600 rupiah per trip and the attendants can help you catch the right bus. Pick up a free route map from the Government Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Malioboro.
Borobudur: Public buses (Cemera Tunggal and Ragil Kuning) from Jombor terminal in the north of the city leave regularly to Borobudur between 06:00 and 16:00, and cost 30,000 rupiah (1.5 hours). TransJogja buses will link you to Jombor terminal via routes 2A (sky blue) and 2B (green) (3,600 rupiah), you may have to connect to these routes via another TransJogja route. The last bus back from Borobudur leaves at 16:00. Borobudur terminal is a 10-minute walk from the temple complex, or becaks and taxis will be willing and waiting to transport you. Alternatively you can catch a Cemera Tunggal bus from Giwangan terminal in the south of the city (2 hours), although these leave less regularly and only operate 08:00 to 15:00. TransJogja links to Giwangan terminal via routes 3A (yellow), 3B (red), 4A (purple) and 4B (orange).
The best time to visit Yogyakarta
Known for its location in the tropical region of Indonesia, Yogyakarta showcases a climate that adheres to the Köppen climate classification, Af or Tropical rainforest. Constant warm temperatures along with high humidity and copious rainfall are the hallmarks of this type of climate, and Yogyakarta stands as a perfect representation.
Throughout the year, temperatures in Yogyakarta fluctuate subtly, ranging from a low of 21°C (69.8°F) to a high of approximately 29°C (84.2°F). No significant deviations are visible, made evident by the consistently high relative humidity ranging from 80% to 84%. Rainfall, on the other hand, exhibits a more pronounced fluctuation with an impressive volume ranging from 29mm (1.14″) in August to 236mm (9.29″) in March.
The best time to visit Yogyakarta
Given Yogyakarta’s consistent climate, choosing the best time to visit largely depends on personal preferences concerning humidity and rainfall. However, given the climatological data, the months from June to August present a period of relatively lower humidity (around 81 percent), lesser rainfall (ranging from 29mm (1.14″) to 83mm (3.27″)), and increase in sunshine hours (from 8.5 to 8.9). Travelers looking for a balance of tropical warmth, manageable rainfall, and pleasant sunshine would find this window most suitable.
The worst time to visit Yogyakarta
On the other hand, rainy periods in Yogyakarta could pose a hurdle to visitors who prefer exploring the outdoors in dry weather. The months of January, February, March, and November are characterized by substantial rainfall, exceeding 200mm (7.87″) and high-humidity levels, which can make exploration and outdoor activities less enjoyable.
Other places to visit while in Yogyakarta
1. Borobudur Temple
In 1814, the Dutch engineer HC Cornelius discovered in the Java jungle, in Indonesia, the ruins of a gigantic mandala, the impressive Borobudur temple, built between 780 and 830 AD by the Sailendra Buddhist dynasty.
2. The Kraton (The Palace of Yogyakarta)
The Kraton (also spelled keraton or karaton) or the Palace of Yogyakarta, is a grand complex that was meticulously planned to reflect the Javanese cosmos. This complex of pavilions was constructed based on ancient beliefs, about the connection between God, humans and the natural realms.
3. A local village tour
Borobudur is surrounded by many villages or Kampungs. Each village has their unique culture, typical houses, and traditional and local food. The village tour takes after visiting the Borobudur temple. There are two possibilities either by Andong (horse cart) or cycling.
Where to stay in Yogyakarta
1. Mid Range: Nextdoor Homestay
We spent three nights here during our time in Yogyakarta and loved it.
Located close to the centre of the city down a very quiet alley this is more of a backpacker’s hangout but at the same time was not grungy. Indeed, there were many design aspects that we loved, and it felt like an oasis of peace and tranquillity. That was until the call to prayer started at the adjacent mosque! Our room was comfortable and there were plenty of places to escape for some solitude in and around the homestay.
The staff at Next Door could not have been more welcoming.
2. Luxury – The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta
Located in the heart of Yogyakarta, The Phenix Hotel Yogyakarta – MGallery Collection is luxury accommodations in a colonial landmark from 1918. The 5-star hotel offers a spa, a fine-dining restaurant and spacious rooms with free WiFi. The outdoor pool is large and open all-year.
Boasting classic interiors with Javanese and European elements in intricate details, the rooms at this property feature modern amenities such as flat-screen TV and air conditioning. Each room is fitted with a mini-bar and safety deposit box for your convenience. Hot shower facilities are available in the private bathroom.
3. Budget – Wonderloft Hostel Jogja
Featuring a garden, Wonderloft Hostel Jogja offers rooms in Yogyakarta, 1.9 miles from Fort Vredeburg and 2 miles from Museum Sonobudoyo. The property is located 2.1 miles from Sultan’s Palace, 2.7 miles from Malioboro Mall and 2.8 miles from Yogyakarta Presidential Palace. Prambanan Temple is 12 miles from the hostel and Borobudur Temple is 27 miles away.
Featuring a shared bathroom with a bidet, rooms at the hostel also provide guests with free WiFi, while selected rooms include a garden view.
More to Explore
