We were lucky enough to visit Komodo Island in Indonesia to see the legendary Komodo Dragon, the largest living lizard species in the world. The lizard grows to 3 metres (10 feet) in total length and attains a weight of about 135 kg (about 300 pounds). It occurs on Komodo Island and a few neighbouring islands of Indonesia's Lesser Sunda Islands.
Indonesia: Java – Borobudur Temple
In 1814, the Dutch engineer HC Cornelius discovered in the Java jungle, in Indonesia, the ruins of a gigantic mandala, the impressive Borobudur temple, built between 780 and 830 AD by the Sailendra Buddhist dynasty.
This was our first full day in Yogyakarta and sadly for us, it was another early start to visit Borobudur, the plan being that an early start would beat the crowds. One problem with this schedule was that we’d miss breakfast, but the overnight porter at Next Door Homestay made us a delicious, toasted egg and cheese sandwich and saved the day.
We left Next Door and could see our driver, Yuli, was waiting for us at the end of the alley. We hopped in the car and set off on the 45km drive to Borobudur through the hectic morning traffic of Yogyakarta. It is hard to see how there are not more accidents with motorcycles!
As we left the city, we could look across the rice fields towards Mount Merapi, a 3000m active volcano. It had last erupted this January, albeit a relatively minor eruption but was still smoking. This is the most active volcano in Indonesia! On the afternoon of 25 October 2010, Merapi erupted on its southern and south-eastern slopes. A total of 353 people were killed over the next month, while 350,000 were forced to flee their homes.
Once we got away from the main city it was plain sailing and we arrived at the car park of Borobudur just after 8 am. Yuli escorted us to the entrance, where a host of other tourists were gathered. To limit the damage to the historical site only 1200 tourists are allowed into the park a day and you must go with an official tour guide. As we entered, they split us into groups of 10 and assigned us a guide for the tour.
The first stop was to pick up some simple slippers made of bamboo, which are made by locals, and were ours to keep. These must be worn when visiting the temple itself to protect the stone stairs and floors from the pounding feet of thousands of tourists.
From the sandal pick-up, our guide ushered us into a small exhibition area to give us a grounding in the history of the temple at Borobudur. It is a monument to Buddha rather than a temple as there is no inside to go into!
Borobudur was built in the 9th century during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty, the temple design follows Javanese Buddhist architecture, which blends the Indonesian indigenous tradition of ancestor worship and the Buddhist concept of attaining nirvana. It is the world’s largest Buddhist temple. The temple consists of nine stacked platforms; six are square and three are circular, topped by a central dome. It is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and originally 504 Buddha statues. The central dome is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues. Borobudur is the largest Buddhist temple in the world and ranks with Bagan in Myanmar and Angkor Wat in Cambodia as one of the great archaeological sites of Southeast Asia.
Borobudur was abandoned following the 14th-century decline of Hindu kingdoms in Java and the Javanese conversion to Islam. It became lost in the jungles of Java and fell into disrepair. It was not until 1814 that Worldwide knowledge of Borobudur’s existence was raised by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, then the British ruler of Java, who was advised of its location by native Indonesians. Borobudur has since been preserved through several restorations. The largest restoration project was undertaken between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian government and UNESCO, followed by the monument’s listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It took about 10 minutes to walk from the exhibit area to the Borobudur temple, through the beautifully maintained grounds. The building is square and there is an entrance on each side with steps leading up to the 9 platforms above. Karen had brought her walking sticks with her as Yuli had said there were a lot of steps up, which was true. The guide took this as that she had mobility problems (which is somewhat the case) so she was allowed to keep her regular shoes on while the rest of us were relegated to the bamboo sandals.
We climbed to the first platform, and our guide started to tell us about the carved reliefs on the walls, which were stunning. They are all individually carved and tell stories about the 29 Buddhas and their lives. Borobudur is constructed from volcanic rock that was carried from Merapi and the bas-relief sculptures were made from this rock. It was an incredible feat, both in logistics and artistry. As we worked our way around the sides of the temple our guide regularly stopped to regale us with stories from the sculptures. Each day the guides use a different level of platform to tell their stories, so you would need to come every day for a week to get the whole picture.
After he’d finished, we were told to head to the top platform, where there were a bunch of mini-stupas and some well-preserved statues of Buddha. Also, here at the highest point and closest to the sky is the main stupa, which supposedly contains relics of Buddha (I think the guide said it was a strand of hair). The view from the top was amazing and, in the distance, we could see the surrounding volcanos, including Merapi, which by now was mostly shrouded in clouds. For the next twenty minutes, we walked around snapping endless photographs. It was now time to descend to the bottom of Borobudur and say goodbye to our guide.
The grounds at Borobudur are very nice and it was pleasant just to walk through them. As we walked along the pathway banner flags were promoting the Samudra Raksa Ship Museum, which is in the grounds of Borobudur. We decided to check it out. The first part of the museum was free to go in and gave the history of Indonesia as a maritime nation. Indonesia was the source of many of the spices sought by countries in the West, which were transported and traded in China and then travelled to the West via the Silk Road, These spices were also sent on boats around the horn of Africa and up the west coast of Africa to Morocco and other ports in the Mediterranean. Also, a part of the museum is a theatre which contains a replica of the Samudra Raksa Ship. This ship is a replica of the ship that is chiselled in Borobudur Temple’s reliefs, which shows a ship equipped with a sail and an outrigger to balance the ship as well as to block the waves.
The shipbuilding was initiated by a former British Royal Navy soldier, Phillip Beale who visited Borobudur Temple in 1982. During his visit, he found a ship-shaped relief and intended to reconstruct it. In 2002, in collaboration with the Indonesian government, especially the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, a team was formed to build this ship. Assisted by Nick Burningham, an archaeologist from Australia, and As’ad Abdullah, the shipbuilder of Samudra Raksa originating from Kangean Island, East Java, the Samudra Raksa Ship was successfully built. On August 15, 2003, the Samudra Raksa Ship made an expedition (tracing) of the cinnamon trade route from Ancol, Jakarta to the Port of Tema, Accra, Ghana, West Africa. It took approximately 6 months, until 23 February 2004.
This ship sits inside the museum alongside an interactive theatre experience. We paid the entry fee, exchanged our sandals for socks and we were let into the theatre. As it happened, we had the whole place to ourselves, except for a young Indonesian staff member who was there to help guide us through the experience. The stand-out feature of the room was the Samudra Raksa ship, but other things caught the eye, namely a 115-metre-long floor and LED screen. The floor was like an aquarium with swimming fish, sharks, manta rays and sea turtles that interacted when you trod on them, which seemed a little unkind. The wall was a huge screen and here played an interactive animated story with a young boy called Raka who travels through time meeting influential characters from Indonesia’s past to tell the story of the nation’s maritime history. The whole thing was oriented towards children, but we had a lot of fun with it.
From the museum, we headed to the exit, which was a bit of a chore as we had to pass through a literal village of stalls selling souvenirs. Getting out was a ten-minute running of the gauntlet of street vendors. Eventually, we escaped and were reunited with Yuli.
Planning your visit to Borobudur Temple
Borobudur temple is located 17.4 km from the nearest city of Magelang and about 40km to the northwest of the city of Yogyakarta, in Central Java.
There are a few different ways to get to Borobudur. You have to first reach Java of course. If you’re coming from Yogyakarta, the cheapest way is by public bus. The most convenient is probably by hiring a taxi.
By air
If you’re flying into Java to see Borobudur, the nearest airports are Yogyakarta’s Adisucipto International Airport and Solo’s Adisumarmo International Airport.
These airports are well connected domestically but international connections are more limited. You can still fly in from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur.
From Yogyakarta Airport it’s then possible to take a fixed-price taxi to Borobudur for 190,000.
By bus
You can easily get to Borobudur from Yogyakarta by public bus. Few tourists actually do it this way, despite the fact that it’s fairly straightforward.
Buses depart from the Jombor Bus terminal in Yogyakarta on a fairly regular basis. The bus terminal can be reached either by taxi or by taking the Trans-Jogja buses 2A or 2B from central Yogyakarta. If you’re familiar with Malioboro St. you can easily jump on the Trans-Jogja here for a few thousand rupiah.
Once you reach Jombor terminal, you can jump on a bus for Borobudur. Ask around to find the correct bus.
The bus to Borobudur should take around 60-90 minutes depending on traffic and should cost around 25,000 rupiah. Don’t let the ticker issuer overcharge you.
When you get down at Borobudur, it’s a 5-10 minute walk to the entrance. Don’t believe any of the touts (motorcycle taxi drivers) when they tell you it’s a 2km walk from the bus stop.
By Van/Minibus
Various private tour operators in Yogyakarta will transport you right to the gate of Borobudur by van or minibus. Some operators combine a tour of Borobudur and Prambanan in a single day. Prices for the tours vary wildly so ask around and bargain.
Be aware that tour operators will often stop the vehicle at batik shops and silver factories along the way to try to make a commission from tourists’ purchases.
We don’t recommend this option personally as it’s more expensive and you’ve little freedom to explore the temple at your own pace. You also have no possibility of avoiding the entrance fees if you do it this way.
By train
The nearest train station to Borobudur is the Yogyarta railway station (formerly known as Tugu) in central Yogyakarta. This station is well connected with other cities in Java like Jakarta and Surabaya. From the station in Yogyakarta, you can transfer to Borobudur by bus or taxi.
By motorcycle
It’s possible to rent a motorcycle in Yogyakarta. It should cost about 50,000 or 60,000 rupiahs for a full day and you may have to leave your passport as collateral since the bike won’t be insured.
By taxi:
The journey takes around 60-90 minutes depending on traffic. The price should be around 200,000 rupiah.
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Getting to and around Yogyakarta
Flying
Multiple airlines including Lion Air and AirAsia offer direct flights from Jakarta to Yogyakarta.
There’s only one airline that offers direct flights from Bandung to Yogyakarta, and that’s Lion Air. The flight takes a little over an hour.
A few airlines offer direct flights from the island of Bali to Yogyakarta, including AirAsia and Lion Air. The flight takes about an hour and a half.
Trains
If you aren’t in a rush, then a good alternative would be to travel by train. We prefer trains over flights. The scenery is better and it’s much cheaper. The train ride from Jakarta to Yogyakarta takes about 8 hours so you can do an overnight train if you wish. The journey from Bandung is around the same amount of time.
Bus
A third option is to go by bus which takes a little longer than traveling by train, about 9 hours from Jakarta.
Giwangan, Yogya’s main terminal for intercity buses, is about six kilometres south of the city centre. Frequent departures connect cities all over Java and to Bali and Sumatra (via ferry). Buses are classed as Executive, VIP, patas, business or economy. All except economy class offer air-con. Executive and most VIP buses have toilets, include a meal and pillow and blanket. Executive, VIP and Patas are comfortable with reclining seats with a two-by-two configuration. Business class are no frills with two-by-three seat configuration. Economy class has no air-con and little comfort, particularly for longer trips. Some bus drivers drive recklessly—don’t be afraid to get off a bus with a crazy driver.
Getting around Yogyakarta
Metered taxis are an inexpensive way to travel, however there can sometimes be traffic congestion. Note that Jalan Malioboro in the city is one-way only, so you may have to travel a roundabout route. Minimum fee is 20,000 rupiah. Some taxis refuse to use the meter, so just wait for one who will.
GoJek motorbike taxis are fast and less expensive than taxis. You will need to download the GoJek app and register to use.
Becak (pedicabs) are abundant. While scenic, these are not the vehicles to take if you are in a hurry, especially since drivers often detour unannounced to their friend’s batik workshops en route. It’s best to arrange a price first (a short trip in the Yogya town centre should be no more than 10,000 to 20,000 rupiah, even at tourist prices) and if you have several destinations in mind, you can rent a becak for several hours for a flat rate.
Andong (horse-drawn carts) are another local transport option, but beware of overloading the poor overworked nags.
Clean, air-con TransJogja buses follow set colour-coded and numbered routes that pass by several major tourist areas, including Jalan Malioboro, Prambanan temple, Giwangan bus terminal and the airport. Fares are a flat 3,600 rupiah per trip and the attendants can help you catch the right bus. Pick up a free route map from the Government Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Malioboro.
Borobudur: Public buses (Cemera Tunggal and Ragil Kuning) from Jombor terminal in the north of the city leave regularly to Borobudur between 06:00 and 16:00, and cost 30,000 rupiah (1.5 hours). TransJogja buses will link you to Jombor terminal via routes 2A (sky blue) and 2B (green) (3,600 rupiah), you may have to connect to these routes via another TransJogja route. The last bus back from Borobudur leaves at 16:00. Borobudur terminal is a 10-minute walk from the temple complex, or becaks and taxis will be willing and waiting to transport you. Alternatively you can catch a Cemera Tunggal bus from Giwangan terminal in the south of the city (2 hours), although these leave less regularly and only operate 08:00 to 15:00. TransJogja links to Giwangan terminal via routes 3A (yellow), 3B (red), 4A (purple) and 4B (orange).
The best time to visit Yogyakarta
Known for its location in the tropical region of Indonesia, Yogyakarta showcases a climate that adheres to the Köppen climate classification, Af or Tropical rainforest. Constant warm temperatures along with high humidity and copious rainfall are the hallmarks of this type of climate, and Yogyakarta stands as a perfect representation.
Throughout the year, temperatures in Yogyakarta fluctuate subtly, ranging from a low of 21°C (69.8°F) to a high of approximately 29°C (84.2°F). No significant deviations are visible, made evident by the consistently high relative humidity ranging from 80% to 84%. Rainfall, on the other hand, exhibits a more pronounced fluctuation with an impressive volume ranging from 29mm (1.14″) in August to 236mm (9.29″) in March.
The best time to visit Yogyakarta
Given Yogyakarta’s consistent climate, choosing the best time to visit largely depends on personal preferences concerning humidity and rainfall. However, given the climatological data, the months from June to August present a period of relatively lower humidity (around 81 percent), lesser rainfall (ranging from 29mm (1.14″) to 83mm (3.27″)), and increase in sunshine hours (from 8.5 to 8.9). Travelers looking for a balance of tropical warmth, manageable rainfall, and pleasant sunshine would find this window most suitable.
The worst time to visit Yogyakarta
On the other hand, rainy periods in Yogyakarta could pose a hurdle to visitors who prefer exploring the outdoors in dry weather. The months of January, February, March, and November are characterized by substantial rainfall, exceeding 200mm (7.87″) and high-humidity levels, which can make exploration and outdoor activities less enjoyable.
Other places to visit while in Yogyakarta
1. Prambanan Temple
Built in the 10th century, this is the largest temple compound dedicated to Shiva in Indonesia. Rising above the centre of the last of these concentric squares are three temples decorated with reliefs illustrating the epic of the Ramayana.
2. The Kraton (The Palace of Yogyakarta)
The Kraton (also spelled keraton or karaton) or the Palace of Yogyakarta, is a grand complex that was meticulously planned to reflect the Javanese cosmos. This complex of pavilions was constructed based on ancient beliefs, about the connection between God, humans and the natural realms.
3. A local village tour
Borobudur is surrounded by many villages or Kampungs. Each village has their unique culture, typical houses, and traditional and local food. The village tour takes after visiting the Borobudur temple. There are two possibilities either by Andong (horse cart) or cycling.
Where to stay in Yogyakarta
1. Mid Range: Nextdoor Homestay
We spent three nights here during our time in Yogyakarta and loved it.
Located close to the centre of the city down a very quiet alley this is more of a backpacker’s hangout but at the same time was not grungy. Indeed, there were many design aspects that we loved, and it felt like an oasis of peace and tranquillity. That was until the call to prayer started at the adjacent mosque! Our room was comfortable and there were plenty of places to escape for some solitude in and around the homestay.
The staff at Next Door could not have been more welcoming.
2. Luxury – The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta
Located in the heart of Yogyakarta, The Phenix Hotel Yogyakarta – MGallery Collection is luxury accommodations in a colonial landmark from 1918. The 5-star hotel offers a spa, a fine-dining restaurant and spacious rooms with free WiFi. The outdoor pool is large and open all-year.
Boasting classic interiors with Javanese and European elements in intricate details, the rooms at this property feature modern amenities such as flat-screen TV and air conditioning. Each room is fitted with a mini-bar and safety deposit box for your convenience. Hot shower facilities are available in the private bathroom.
3. Budget – Wonderloft Hostel Jogja
Featuring a garden, Wonderloft Hostel Jogja offers rooms in Yogyakarta, 1.9 miles from Fort Vredeburg and 2 miles from Museum Sonobudoyo. The property is located 2.1 miles from Sultan’s Palace, 2.7 miles from Malioboro Mall and 2.8 miles from Yogyakarta Presidential Palace. Prambanan Temple is 12 miles from the hostel and Borobudur Temple is 27 miles away.
Featuring a shared bathroom with a bidet, rooms at the hostel also provide guests with free WiFi, while selected rooms include a garden view.
More to Explore
