Mumbai, a bustling metropolis on the western coast of India, teems with vibrant life and cultural diversity, where colonial-era architecture stands alongside gleaming skyscrapers, the aroma of street food wafts through narrow lanes, and millions navigate the frenetic pace of daily life with an unwavering spirit that reflects both the resilience and the rich heritage of this ever-evolving city.
India: Mumbai – Transport Tour
Mumbai by Bus, Train, Taxi and Foot
🚶♂️ Meeting at Regal Cinema
For today’s excursion, I had booked us onto another tour with Reality Tours, this time one that focused on exploring some of the less touristy corners of Mumbai using the city’s local transport. The rendezvous point for the morning was the Regal Cinema, a handsome art deco landmark in Colaba that has been entertaining audiences since the 1930s. The walk there from our hotel took about twenty minutes, and as we went along the busy streets, we passed a mix of bookstalls, cafés, and vendors selling everything from sunglasses to roasted peanuts. The cinema itself stood proudly on a busy junction, its fading grandeur giving a nostalgic glimpse into a time when this part of the city was a hub for cinema-goers.
Waiting outside was our guide for the day, Raj, who greeted us with a broad smile and an easy-going manner. He quickly introduced us to one of our fellow tourists, João, a Brazilian traveller with a warm personality. João had just come from a yoga workshop elsewhere in India and was spending some more time in Mumbai before heading home. He told us he had been to the city several times before and, to our surprise, had even taken a tour with Reality about twenty years earlier. It was a reminder of how long this company has been around and how much of Mumbai had changed in that time. After waiting a short while longer, we were joined by the final member of our small group, Sarah, a lady from Australia who was travelling solo. Once our party was complete, Raj explained the plan for the day, and with that, we were off.
🚌 A Ride to Victoria Terminus
Our first stop was Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, still widely known by its old name, Victoria Terminus. To get there, we boarded a local bus, one of Mumbai’s famous red BEST buses. The ride itself was an experience, weaving through the morning traffic as hawkers, pedestrians, and motorbikes jostled for space on the chaotic streets. The bus was old and rattled with every turn, but it was part of the charm—this was no air-conditioned tourist coach, but the real way Mumbaikars get around.
When we arrived, the imposing façade of the terminus came into view. The Gothic architecture, with its turrets, stained glass, and soaring central dome, made a dramatic impression even though I had already visited on another day. Inside, we hurried through the crowds of commuters, past the ticket counters and onto a local train. This was where the real adventure began.
🚉 North to Dadar Market
The train ride lasted about twenty minutes as we headed north. To our surprise, it wasn’t overly crowded, giving us the chance to stand comfortably by the open doors and feel the warm air rushing past. When we disembarked at a bustling suburban station, we quickly noticed the constant flow of passengers—Mumbai’s lifeblood moving in all directions.
A short walk from the station brought us to Dadar Market, one of the city’s most famous and lively trading spots. We had arrived during the marigold season, and the sight was nothing short of astonishing. The entire market seemed ablaze with shades of orange and yellow, great bundles of flowers spilling across stalls and pavements. Marigolds were being strung into garlands, sorted into heaps, and packed into baskets for weddings, temples, and festivals. Yet, amidst the ocean of orange, there were other bursts of colour too—crimson roses, delicate lilies, and jasmine whose fragrance filled the air. It was a full sensory assault, with colour, smell, and sound colliding into one chaotic but beautiful whole.
Next to the flower section was the fruit and vegetable market, which seemed just as intense in its own way. The range of produce was staggering: aubergines, okra, gourds of every shape and size, and fruit piled high in vibrant pyramids. One of the most memorable stretches was a row of garlic sellers, their stalls running for nearly 100 metres in a straight line. The garlic was stacked in huge mounds, almost waist high, creating a sharp and unmistakable aroma. Raj stopped here to buy some garlic for his home, casually chatting with the vendors as if they were old friends.
👕 A Glimpse of Dhobi Ghat
From Dadar, we boarded another train heading back south towards the city. After a short ride, we reached Mahalaxmi and walked to a familiar spot—Dhobi Ghat, the world’s largest open-air laundry. I had been here only a couple of days earlier, but this time our perspective was different. Raj led us to a viewpoint that overlooked the endless rows of clotheslines stretching across the compound. From above, the scale was clearer—the patchwork of sheets, saris, and uniforms flapping in the air, tended by dhobis who wash thousands of items by hand every day.
What caught my eye this time were the hospital linens: green sheets and pillowcases that were unmistakably from Mumbai’s many hospitals. Seeing them drying in the open air, amidst the city’s dust and pollution, was a sobering reminder of the challenges faced in everyday life here. We didn’t linger too long, but it was enough to once again marvel at this massive operation that has been part of the city for over a century.
🛍️ Wandering Chor Bazaar
Our final main stop of the tour was Chor Bazaar, one of the largest flea markets in India and certainly one of the most atmospheric. Its name literally translates to “Thieves Market”, a reference to the time when stolen goods supposedly found their way here. Raj explained that this reputation is more historical than current, though he admitted with a grin that it was still possible to find the odd shady deal.
The market was sprawling and packed with stalls selling just about everything imaginable. There were second-hand clothes stacked in piles, old brass lamps and gramophones, dusty chandeliers, motorbike parts, and tools that looked like they had been used for generations. Walking through the maze of lanes was thrilling—you never knew what the next shop would hold. Some places resembled treasure troves, while others felt like junkyards, but together they created a marketplace unlike anything I had ever seen. Of all the stops on this tour, this was easily our favourite. The energy, the oddities, and the endless browsing opportunities made it a highlight of the day.
🚖 Mumbai’s Black-and-Yellow Taxis
When it was time to leave Chor Bazaar, we hailed one of Mumbai’s famous black-and-yellow taxis. These cabs are everywhere in the city, their colours giving the impression of a swarm of bees buzzing through the traffic. The ride was short, but it was fun to bounce along in one of these iconic vehicles, a true symbol of Mumbai. The taxi dropped us off at another station, ready to catch the train back towards Churchgate.
🚆 Packed Trains and Open Doors
By this stage, the trains were far busier. Heading south towards the centre of the city in the late afternoon meant travelling with the rush-hour crowds. We squeezed ourselves onto the packed carriage, holding tightly as the train jolted into motion. The doors, of course, remained wide open, and it was both thrilling and unnerving to see people hanging outside as the train sped along. At the stations, passengers leapt off while the train was still moving, a sight that seemed reckless but entirely normal here.
Raj told us that fatalities on the train system are sadly common, though not as frequent as in the past. Once upon a time, commuters regularly rode on top of the trains, and though this is rarer now, it still happens. He even showed us a video he had taken of a man who had been riding on the roof and tragically came into contact with the high-voltage cables—a grim and sobering reminder of the risks.
🍱 Watching the Dabbawallas
We eventually arrived safely at Churchgate Terminus, where Raj led us outside for a final treat. On the pavement, groups of men in white cotton uniforms and Gandhi caps were going about their business. These were the Dabbawallas, part of one of the most efficient food delivery networks in the world. They collect freshly cooked meals from homes all over the city and deliver them to offices and workplaces, using bicycles and trains in a complex system that is almost flawless. Watching them in action was fascinating—dozens of tiffin boxes stacked neatly, coded with symbols and colours that allowed them to reach the right destination.
It was a wonderful way to end the day, especially as it reminded us of a touching Indian film we had once seen, The Lunchbox, which is about a Dabbawalla and a misdelivered lunch. Seeing the real men behind this legendary service brought the story to life in a special way.ol-
🌟 Final Thoughts
This tour with Reality Tours gave us a chance to see a different side of Mumbai. Travelling by bus, train, and taxi, we experienced the city as locals do every day, from the noisy flower market at Dadar to the dusty treasures of Chor Bazaar. Raj’s stories and insights added depth to every stop, turning what might have been a simple sightseeing trip into a real journey through the daily life of the city. Mumbai can be overwhelming, but moving through it this way gave us a sense of its energy, its challenges, and its remarkable spirit.
Getting around Mumbai
🚉 Local Trains (“Suburban Railway”)
These are the lifeline of Mumbai. They connect South Mumbai to the suburbs via three main lines: Western, Central and Harbour.
Very crowded during peak hours (morning & evening), so better to travel outside those times.
Tickets can be bought at station counters or via apps.
🚇 Metro & Monorail
Mumbai has several Metro lines (e.g. Lines 1, 2A, 7, and the Aqua/Metro Line 3) that connect key areas. These are faster, less crowded than trains sometimes, and air-conditioned.
Monorail is available in certain suburbs, though its network is more limited.
🚌 Buses (BEST etc.)
BEST (Brihanmumbai Electric Supply & Transport) runs a large network of buses in Mumbai. Some are AC, some non-AC. Routes cover many neighbourhoods.
Bus fares are quite affordable; cost depends on distance.
🚕 Taxis, Auto-Rickshaws & App-Cabs
Traditional black-and-yellow taxis are iconic; require meter.
Auto-rickshaws are shorter-distance, cheaper, but may not be allowed in all areas (e.g. some parts of South Mumbai).
App-based services (Uber, Ola etc.) are widely available and often more comfortable.
⛴️ Ferries / Boats
There are ferry services across certain waterways (e.g. between Mumbai and Alibaug, or around the harbour). Good option if your itinerary includes coastal or island areas.
✈️ Airport Connectivity
Mumbai’s main airport (Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport) is connected by taxis, app cabs, buses and also local trains depending on the terminal and nearby stations.
💳 Travel & Ticketing Cards / Passes
Mumbai 1 Smart Card: This is a unified smart‐card being introduced for use across many transport modes (local trains, metro, monorail, buses). Meant to simplify travel by using a single card.
It is part of the National Common Mobility Card (NCMC) scheme.
There are also tourist/local train passes offering unlimited travel for durations such as 1, 3 or 5 days, useful if you’ll be using local trains often.
🔗 Useful Official Websites
Mumbai Metro Rail Corporation Ltd: mmrcl.com – for metro info, fares, station maps etc. mmrcl.com
Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (MSRTC): for longer-distance/state bus services. msrtc.maharashtra.gov.in
Eating out for vegans in Mumbai
🥗 Vegan Food in Mumbai, India
Mumbai might not be the first city you think of for vegan dining, but it’s quickly becoming easier to enjoy tasty, plant-based meals. Here are some great places to try:
🌿 Earthlings Café – Bandra
A popular vegan café in Bandra offering a wide range of dishes, from pizzas and burgers to traditional Indian options. Known for its warm atmosphere and creative desserts.
📍 Address: Shop 3, Galaxy Residency, Chimbai Road, Bandra West, Mumbai
🌐 Website: earthlingscafe.in
🍜 Seed Café – Juhu
A wellness-focused café that serves wholesome vegan bowls, smoothies, and raw desserts. A favourite for health-conscious diners looking for clean and flavourful food.
📍 Address: 8, Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road, Mumbai
🌐 Instagram: @seedcafemumbai
🛒 Rare Earth – Vegan Store & Café
Mumbai’s first fully vegan store, offering groceries, plant-based alternatives, and a café with snacks and meals. A one-stop shop for all things cruelty-free.
📍 Address: 10th Road, Juhu, Mumbai
🌐 Website: rareearththeorganicstore.com
🍽️ The Yoga House – Bandra
A calm and welcoming spot that serves vegetarian and vegan-friendly meals. While not fully vegan, they clearly mark plant-based choices on the menu.
📍 Address: Nargis Villa, Sherly Rajan Road, Bandra West, Mumbai
🌐 Website: theyogahouse.in
🧁 Sequel Bistro & Juice Bar – Multiple Locations
A stylish café known for organic, plant-based dishes and desserts. Their smoothies, superfood bowls, and vegan pastries are especially popular.
📍 Locations: Bandra, Kala Ghoda, BKC
🌐 Website: sequelmumbai.in
🥙 Burma Burma – Multiple Locations
Though not entirely vegan, this restaurant offers a dedicated vegan menu with Burmese dishes like tea leaf salad, curries, and noodles.
📍 Locations: Fort, Lower Parel, BKC
🌐 Website: burmaburma.in
🌱 Kitchen Garden by Suzette – Various Branches
Perfect for a quick bite, this café offers vegan-friendly salads, sandwiches, and smoothies. Ingredients are fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced.
📍 Locations: Bandra, BKC, Andheri
🌐 Website: kitchengardenbysuzette.in
The best time to visit Mumbai
☀️ Best Time to Visit Mumbai
Mumbai, India’s bustling coastal city, offers a unique blend of history, culture, food, and seaside charm. But with its tropical climate, the experience can feel very different depending on the season.
🌸 Winter (November – February)
This is the most pleasant time to visit. The weather is cooler and less humid, with average temperatures between 17°C and 30°C. Perfect for sightseeing, exploring street markets, and walking along Marine Drive. Festivals like Diwali (Nov) and Kala Ghoda Arts Festival (Feb) add extra charm.
🌧️ Monsoon (June – September)
Mumbai is famous for its heavy rains during the monsoon. The city transforms into a lush, green landscape, but flooding and travel delays are common. Temperatures range from 24°C to 29°C. While not ideal for tourists, the monsoon has its own romance, especially when enjoyed with a cup of hot chai by the sea.
🔥 Summer (March – May)
Summers are hot and humid, with temperatures soaring to 35°C and above. Outdoor activities can feel uncomfortable, though evenings by the coast offer some relief. This season is less crowded with tourists, so it’s better for budget travellers who don’t mind the heat.
📌 Summary
The best time to visit Mumbai is from November to February, when the weather is most comfortable for sightseeing and outdoor activities.
📊 Best Time to Visit Mumbai – At a Glance
| Season | Months | Temperature Range | Highlights | Things to Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Winter | Nov – Feb | 17°C – 30°C | Festivals, sightseeing, outdoor walks | Best time to visit |
| 🔥 Summer | Mar – May | 25°C – 35°C+ | Less crowded, cheaper stays | Hot & humid |
| 🌧️ Monsoon | Jun – Sep | 24°C – 29°C | Lush greenery, monsoon charm | Heavy rain, flooding |
| 🌤️ Post-Monsoon | Oct – Early Nov | 23°C – 32°C | Pleasant transition, festive season | Can be humid |
Where to stay in Mumbai
🏙️ South Mumbai (Colaba & Fort)
South Mumbai is perfect for first-time visitors who want to be close to iconic landmarks such as the Gateway of India, Marine Drive, and Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. The area offers a mix of colonial architecture, luxury hotels, budget stays, museums, and vibrant street markets.
🌊 Marine Drive & Chowpatty
For those who enjoy stunning sea views, Marine Drive is a top choice. Staying here means easy access to the famous promenade, beachside snacks at Chowpatty, and plenty of restaurants and cafés. It’s especially lively in the evenings when locals gather by the seaside.
🛍️ Bandra
Known as the “Queen of the Suburbs,” Bandra blends old-world charm with a modern, trendy lifestyle. It’s popular for boutique shopping, stylish cafés, vibrant nightlife, and seaside promenades. Many Bollywood celebrities also live here, adding to its glamour.
🌆 Juhu
Juhu is famous for its beach, luxury hotels, and the chance to spot Bollywood stars. It’s a family-friendly area with plenty of dining options and easy access to theatres and shopping hubs.
✈️ Andheri (East & West)
Conveniently close to the airport, Andheri offers a wide range of hotels for all budgets. Andheri West is known for its lively dining and nightlife scene, while Andheri East is popular for business travellers due to its proximity to commercial hubs.
🏢 Powai
A modern neighbourhood with lakeside views, Powai is ideal for those seeking a quieter, upscale stay. It’s well-planned, with luxury hotels, restaurants, and a cosmopolitan vibe, away from the chaos of central Mumbai.
🏖️ Versova
Versova, close to Andheri, has a bohemian and artistic feel. It’s popular with creative professionals and offers a quieter beach, seafood joints, and trendy cafés.
1. Mid Range: Residency Hotel Fort
Residency Hotel Fort Mumbai is a charming boutique property located in the heart of South Mumbai, offering guests a warm blend of comfort, elegance, and old-world charm. Set within a heritage building, the hotel combines colonial-style architecture with modern amenities, making it a popular choice for both leisure and business travellers. Its prime location in the historic Fort district means that iconic landmarks such as the Gateway of India, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, and the bustling Colaba Causeway are just a short walk or drive away. The interiors are tastefully decorated, with a mix of traditional wooden furnishings and contemporary touches that create a welcoming atmosphere. Rooms are well-appointed with air conditioning, complimentary Wi-Fi, satellite television, and en-suite bathrooms, ensuring convenience and relaxation. The hotel is also praised for its attentive staff who go out of their way to make each stay memorable, offering personalised service and local recommendations. A hearty breakfast is included, featuring both Indian and continental options, which provides the perfect start to a day of exploring the city. With its combination of location, comfort, and hospitality, Residency Hotel Fort Mumbai is an excellent base for visitors who want to experience the cultural richness and vibrant energy of Mumbai.
2. Luxury – The Leela Mumbai
The Leela Mumbai is a luxurious five-star hotel located conveniently close to Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport, making it an ideal choice for both business and leisure travellers. Surrounded by landscaped gardens and cascading waterfalls, the hotel offers a serene escape from the bustling energy of Mumbai while still keeping guests connected to the city’s major commercial districts. Inside, the interiors are grand and elegant, blending Indian opulence with contemporary comfort. Guests can enjoy spacious rooms and suites with modern amenities, as well as an impressive selection of dining options that range from fine Indian cuisine to international favourites. The hotel also boasts a full-service spa, a large outdoor swimming pool, and state-of-the-art fitness facilities, ensuring a well-rounded experience for those seeking relaxation or rejuvenation. For corporate visitors, The Leela Mumbai provides extensive conference and banquet spaces, equipped with the latest technology and supported by attentive staff, making it a preferred venue for events, meetings, and weddings. With its impeccable service, refined atmosphere, and convenient location, The Leela Mumbai is widely regarded as one of the city’s most distinguished and welcoming luxury hotels.
3. Budget – Hotel Antique – Colaba
Hotel Antique in Colaba, Mumbai, is a charming mid-range property that offers visitors a comfortable stay in one of the city’s most vibrant and historic neighbourhoods. Nestled in the lively lanes of Colaba, the hotel provides easy access to some of Mumbai’s most iconic attractions, including the Gateway of India, the bustling Colaba Causeway market, and the scenic Marine Drive. The interiors combine a sense of old-world character with practical amenities, creating a homely and welcoming atmosphere for both leisure and business travellers. Rooms are clean and simply furnished, with air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and essential facilities that make for a convenient stay without unnecessary frills. Guests particularly appreciate the hotel’s friendly staff, who go out of their way to offer assistance and local recommendations, adding to the overall warmth of the experience. Being located in Colaba also means guests are never far from popular cafés, art galleries, and restaurants, making it an ideal base for exploring Mumbai’s cosmopolitan side while still enjoying the character of a historic neighbourhood. Hotel Antique is particularly popular with travellers looking for value, location, and a sense of authentic Mumbai charm.
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