We were greeted in Hong Kong by some wet, miserable weather. The weather in the tropics are complex. For Hong Kong and this part of South East Asia this time of year can be wet, and our arrival coincided with a passing tropical storm. I was happy though, because I hadn't seen any rain for 3 months! Karen was concerned by the warnings at the airport, but we were assured that the "standby signal No. 1" was nothing to be concerned about.
Hong Kong: Victoria Peak, Aberdeen and a night market
😴 The 12-Hour Coma and Bear Grylls at 4 a.m.
When we finally decided to take a nap at three in the afternoon, we fully expected to sleep for a couple of hours, surface around five, and head back out to explore Hong Kong like the energetic tourists we absolutely were not. So we turned off the alarm — always a sound decision, that — and drifted off.
When I eventually prised my eyes open and felt sufficiently human to check the time, it was four o’clock in the morning. We had been asleep for over twelve hours. Twelve. Hours. I honestly cannot remember the last time that happened. We’re talking a sleep so deep and so thorough it bordered on medical.
Being awake at four in the morning in Hong Kong wasn’t entirely unexpected, given the travel and the jet lag, but it did leave us with a rather yawning two-and-a-half hours to fill before the restaurant opened for breakfast. So I did what any sensible person would do: I opened the laptop to do some writing and flicked on the television.
The only remotely watchable thing available was Bear Grylls shepherding a gaggle of UK B-list celebrities through what appeared to be fairly unpleasant terrain somewhere in South Africa. I sat there watching, mildly appalled, as minor soap actors and forgotten reality stars struggled gamely with things most sensible people would pay good money to avoid. It reminded me, in the most efficient possible way, precisely why I watch so little television these days. Even when I have absolutely nothing better to do, apparently, I can still find it a stretch.
Eventually, six-thirty rolled around and we positioned ourselves outside the restaurant — although “queue” is perhaps a generous term for a group of two couples standing hopefully by a closed door. We found plenty to eat and the coffee, after the night we’d had, tasted genuinely magnificent.
Back in the room, we got ourselves sorted for the day. The forecast was threatening rain again, which in Hong Kong is roughly as surprising as being told it will be humid. But we weren’t bothered. I pulled back the curtains and was treated to a rather spectacular view from our room on the twentieth floor of the Dorsett Wan Chai — specifically, a beautifully kept graveyard stretching out below us. And I mean that sincerely: as graveyards go, it was genuinely one of the more handsome ones I’ve encountered. Neatly arranged, quietly dignified, and with a view that, under slightly different circumstances, one might even call enviable.
The Dorsett’s location is, it has to be said, rather well thought out — and not just for those with an interest in municipal burial grounds. It sits directly across the street from the famous Happy Valley Racecourse, one of Hong Kong’s great sporting institutions, first opened in 1846 and still pulling in enormous crowds on Wednesday evenings. Just next door is the Hong Kong Cricket Club, which holds the quietly impressive distinction of being the oldest cricket club in Asia, founded all the way back in 1851. It’s the sort of neighbourhood detail that makes you feel briefly cultured simply for knowing it exists.
🏔️ Conquering Victoria Peak — Views, Rain, and a Surprisingly Empty Tram
Our first objective of the day was a good one. We were off to Victoria Peak — also known as Mount Austin, though nobody actually calls it that — or simply “the Peak” to the locals, who have always had a pleasingly no-nonsense approach to naming things. The Peak offers what are genuinely unequalled views across Hong Kong and Victoria Harbour, which is rather the point of going up a mountain. Whether we’d actually see any of it was another matter entirely, given that the weather forecast had been doing its very best impression of someone reading you bad news in a gentle voice. Still, we pressed on. We’re British. It’s what we do.
Standing at 552 metres above sea level, Victoria Peak is the highest mountain on Hong Kong Island — which sounds impressive until you consider we had just spent the previous week in Colorado at altitudes north of 3,000 metres. So the so-called “rarefied atmosphere” was, frankly, not going to trouble us. We’d already done the altitude acclimatisation, paid our dues in thin air, and had the splitting headaches to prove it. Hong Kong’s peak felt, by comparison, like standing on a slightly elevated pavement.
For roughly the last 200 years, Victoria Peak has been where Hong Kong’s wealthy and well-connected have chosen to plant themselves, which tells you quite a lot about wealthy people and their universal fondness for looking down on everyone else — metaphorically and literally.
In the early days of British Hong Kong, following the island’s cession to Britain under the Treaty of Nanking in 1842 after the First Opium War, the colony’s more prosperous residents were literally carried up the steep mountain paths to their summit residences by servants on sedan chairs. The path to the top was gruelling, narrow and thoroughly unpleasant, which apparently did nothing to dampen enthusiasm among those rich enough not to be doing the carrying themselves.
Everything changed in May 1888 with the opening of the Peak Tram — officially the Hong Kong Peak Tramways — which transformed the mountain from an exclusive inconvenience into something rather more accessible. The funicular railway, built by Scottish engineer Alexander Findlay Smith, climbed the steep gradient using a system of cables and counterweights, and it changed everything. With easier access came further development, smarter residences, a proper hotel, and eventually the full-blown tourist attraction the Peak became in the twentieth century. The colonial governor of the time reserved the very summit for his own use, naturally.
Before the Victorians and their sedan chairs claimed the place as a fashionable address, however, the Peak had a rather more notorious resident. Cheung Po Tsai — one of the most feared pirates in Chinese history, who at his peak (no pun intended) commanded a fleet reportedly exceeding 1,800 vessels and some 80,000 men — was said to have used the mountain’s commanding vantage point to spy on ships entering Victoria Harbour below. From that lofty perch he could plan his next raid with the kind of leisurely confidence that comes from knowing absolutely nobody can sneak up on you. The man had an eye for real estate, you had to give him that.
Our plan for the day involved using the Peak Tram to get to the top, which seemed entirely sensible. It is only a short walk from the Central MTR station to the Lower Peak Tram terminus on Garden Road — pleasant enough in decent weather, rather less so when the sky decides to open without warning, which it did, with considerable enthusiasm.
We took cover and waited. This is, of course, a time-honoured tradition in Hong Kong, where the weather operates entirely on its own schedule and has no particular interest in yours. The subtropical climate means rain can arrive with astonishing speed and quantity, particularly during the wet season between May and September, when typhoons and heavy downpours are a regular feature of life. The locals, to their great credit, take it entirely in their stride.
Thankfully, it was only a few minutes before things eased off enough to continue. And there was, it turned out, a distinct silver lining to all the meteorological drama: the foul weather had put off all but the most determined visitors. The queue, which in good weather can stretch to genuinely soul-destroying lengths — an hour or more is not unheard of — had been pleasingly thinned out. Sometimes it pays to be the sort of stubborn idiot who goes up a mountain in the rain.
🚡 Back on the Peak Tram — Thirty Years Later and Somewhat the Worse for It
It had been something like thirty-odd years since we last rode the Peak Tram in Hong Kong, and I have to say, some things haven’t changed at all. Well, I say that. The rails are probably the same. Everything else, however, has been enthusiastically ruined.
The Peak Tram, for those who haven’t had the pleasure, has been hauling people up Victoria Peak since 1888 — making it one of the oldest funicular railways in Asia. It was built originally to ferry the colonial elite up to their hilltop residences, away from the heat and the riffraff below. Nowadays, of course, it ferries tourists up to something rather different.
The commercialism, which I vaguely remember nibbling at the edges back in the nineties, has now taken a full and enthusiastic bite. At the lower terminus, you’re greeted almost immediately by the ticket office for Madame Tussauds, fronted by a wax figure of Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson that was, frankly, unimpressive. He looked like he’d been left out in the sun. Which, given Hong Kong’s humidity, is entirely possible.
The ride itself is mercifully short. A single cable hauls the tram up the steep gradient of the Peak at a gradient that gets your attention. I’ll be honest — it doesn’t quite inspire the same confidence as a proper cog railway, the sort the Swiss have been using without incident since 1871. But the tram has been running since Victoria was still on the throne, so I suppose it’s earned a degree of trust.
What awaited us at the top was rather less reassuring. The summit terminus now occupies a six-storey building — and I use the word “building” generously, because most of it is given over to gift shops selling things nobody needs, overpriced restaurants, Madame Tussauds exhibits, and an assortment of other gaudy distractions. Outside, construction work was well underway, including, and I’m not making this up, an aquarium. An aquarium. On top of a mountain. With a perfectly serviceable bay and marina sitting five hundred metres below. I assume someone thought this was a bold idea.
We declined to pay extra for the rooftop viewing platform — a decision that required no agonising whatsoever — and instead walked a couple of hundred feet to the Lions Pavilion, which is free and offers a genuinely fine view of the bay and the city sprawled below. Sadly, the weather had other ideas and was doing its very best impression of a damp flannel. Still, you can’t have everything.
🏔️ Uphill to Victoria Peak Garden
Still doing our level best to dodge the tourist hordes who had colonised the lower Peak area with their selfie sticks and matching luggage sets, we pushed on upward — ever upward — towards the very top of Victoria Peak. The destination was the Victoria Peak Garden, a proper formal garden perched right at the summit of the mountain at around 552 metres above sea level, originally laid out in the grounds of the old Governor’s Summer Lodge back in the 19th century. It commands sweeping views in every direction across Hong Kong Island, and on a clear day, it’s genuinely spectacular. On the day we went, however, it was not a clear day. Not even slightly.
Getting there involved what I can only describe as a relentless uphill slog along a path that seemed very keen on going up and absolutely not interested in going down. It was warm. Very warm. The kind of warmth that Hong Kong specialises in during summer, where the humidity sits somewhere between “tropical greenhouse” and “inside a dog’s mouth.” It was not long at all before we were completely and comprehensively drenched in sweat. Absolutely soaked. A lovely image, I know, and I apologise for putting it in your head.
About halfway up, and desperately grateful for any excuse to stop, we paused at the Mount Austin Playground. Despite the slightly misleading name, this is actually a rather charming formal garden with a children’s play area tucked within it. On a bright spring day, with blossom on the trees and a light breeze coming off the South China Sea, it would be absolutely delightful. On a grey, damp, sticky summer’s afternoon, with sweat dripping off our chins, it was considerably less so. Still, we appreciated it for what it was — a bench and a reason to stop moving.
What did lift our somewhat bedraggled spirits, rather unexpectedly, was the appearance of some genuinely stunning butterflies drifting past us on the path. Hong Kong is actually home to over 230 species of butterfly, and several of the larger, more vividly coloured varieties appeared to be putting on a bit of a show. We stood and watched them for a while, sweating gently, and felt considerably better about everything.
🌿 Into the Victoria Peak Gardens — and a Surprising Communion
A little further along the path, we found ourselves entering the Victoria Peak Gardens. And almost immediately, we were stopped in our tracks by a series of warning signs that can only be described as deeply alarming. These weren’t your modest little notices with a small drawing of a mosquito and some politely worded advice. Oh no. These were enormous, full-colour, blown-up images of mosquitoes the size of labradors, screaming warnings about Dengue fever and Japanese Encephalitis. Presumably designed by someone who thought subtlety was overrated.
Now, a bit of context. Dengue fever has been a genuine and recurring public health concern in Hong Kong since at least the early 2000s, when outbreaks prompted the city’s Centre for Health Protection to launch aggressive public awareness campaigns. Japanese Encephalitis, spread by Culex mosquitoes breeding in standing water near farms and wetlands, has been present in the region for decades, though thankfully cases are relatively rare. None of which was particularly reassuring as we stood there reading about it in enormous letters surrounded by subtropical shrubbery. We moved on at some pace, operating under the working theory that walking briskly might somehow outrun anything with wings and a grudge.
The Victoria Peak Gardens themselves have a rather interesting history, which we were perhaps not fully appreciating at the time, given our mild state of mosquito-induced panic. The gardens occupy land that was once the site of the Governor’s Summer Residence, a grand colonial retreat built in the 1860s and later demolished in 1946 after being severely damaged during the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong from 1941 to 1945. The site was subsequently laid out as public gardens, and today they offer some genuinely spectacular views that most tourists, being entirely focused on the Peak Tower and its gift shops, tend to miss completely.
At the very top of the hill there was a covered shelter with a patio, and the views from up there were really quite something. Not the famous harbour panorama that everyone photographs — that faces north towards Kowloon — but the other side of Hong Kong Island entirely, looking south across the quieter, greener expanse towards Stanley, Repulse Bay, and the South China Sea beyond. It was, frankly, worth every one of those mossie warning signs.
It was here that Karen’s attention was caught by a small group of people gathered nearby who appeared to be taking part in some kind of ceremony. From where we were standing, it looked very much like a Christian communion — the passing of what appeared to be bread and small cups, the quiet reverence of it, the sense of collective participation. Karen, being Karen, didn’t really pause to ask questions. She simply joined in. Which is either wonderfully open-hearted or mildly chaotic, depending on your point of view.
It was only afterwards, when the moment had passed and we were walking back down, that she began to feel a little bit guilty about the whole thing. What if it had been a private family gathering? A memorial, perhaps, or some intimate religious observance not really intended for passing strangers who happened to wander in off the hiking path? She’s been quietly fretting about it ever since. I, of course, have been absolutely no help whatsoever.
🚡 Heading Back Down — and Onwards to Aberdeen
By now, we’d had our fill of the peak and decided it was time to move on. We scurried back down to the tram station, which, frankly, felt considerably more enjoyable than the trudge upwards had been. Going downhill always does feel rather civilised, and a cooling breeze had picked up along the way, which made the whole thing almost pleasant. Almost.
Our second destination for the day was Aberdeen Harbour, which sits on the far side of Hong Kong Island from the main city — and, as it turned out, rather inconveniently placed for anyone relying on the MTR metro system, which doesn’t extend that far. Aberdeen is one of those places that tends to get overlooked by visitors fixated on the glittering skyline and the shopping malls, which is a shame, because it has genuine history. The harbour has been a working fishing settlement for centuries, long predating British colonisation in 1842, and was home to the famous Tanka boat people — a community that historically lived entirely on the water aboard sampans and junks, rarely setting foot on land. By the time we visited, much of that floating village had shrunk considerably from its mid-twentieth-century peak of around 20,000 residents, but the remnants were still there, still bobbing about.
Getting to Aberdeen required us to expand our experience of Hong Kong’s genuinely impressive transit network — and that meant catching a bus. Hong Kong’s public transport is, by any measure, extraordinary. The MTR metro system, which opened in 1979 and now carries well over four million passengers a day, is clean, punctual, and air-conditioned to a degree that would make a penguin feel overdressed. The buses, however, are a slightly different proposition.
As we walked towards the central bus station, we couldn’t help but notice something rather striking. Hundreds of people — predominantly women and children — were gathered throughout the streets, using every available pavement, underpass, and patch of sheltered ground they could find. Cardboard boxes had been pressed into service as makeshift groundsheets, and people were sitting in clusters, sharing food, chatting, and generally appearing to enjoy themselves. It was, we had to admit, a little baffling at first glance.
We were told, once we’d gathered our wits enough to ask, that this was the one day of the year when Hong Kong’s domestic workers take their collective day off. Under Hong Kong employment law, live-in domestic workers — the vast majority of whom come from the Philippines and Indonesia — are entitled to one rest day per week, and Sunday is the traditional choice. On that one day, tens of thousands of them converge on the city’s public spaces, particularly around Central and Causeway Bay, to socialise, share meals, play cards, and simply decompress from what are, by any honest reckoning, extremely demanding working lives. Many of these women work six days a week, living in their employers’ homes, often in cramped conditions, looking after children and elderly relatives. It’s a hard life. Seeing them laughing and relaxing together in the sunshine — well, what there was of it — was genuinely warming, even for a cynical old Englishman like me. There was something quietly defiant and rather beautiful about the whole thing.
Predictably, where there are large gatherings of people, commerce follows. Street vendors had materialised from nowhere, as they always seem to, peddling all manner of goods to a captive and receptive audience.
We caught the bus with reasonably good timing, which was just as well, because at that precise moment Mother Nature decided to remind us who was actually in charge of the itinerary. We don’t use buses especially often, if we’re honest, but when we spotted that this was a double-decker — a classic Hong Kong Citybus or New World First Bus model, the sort that have been thundering round the island’s narrow roads for decades — we didn’t hesitate. Straight up to the top deck, front seats, claimed without ceremony. Prime position. The best seats in the house.
The only minor drawback was that our magnificent panoramic view of the route to Aberdeen was almost entirely obscured by the torrents of rain now cascading down the windows in great theatrical sheets. Hong Kong in the wet season does not mess about. Still, we had the seats, and we were dry, and that, all things considered, was more than enough.
The journey from the city to Aberdeen took about thirty minutes, and when we arrived, the rain hadn’t abated one jot. It showed absolutely no intention of stopping anytime soon, either, which is par for the course in Hong Kong, where the weather operates entirely on its own agenda and has no interest whatsoever in yours. So we did what any self-respecting tourists do in a downpour — we made a run for it and jumped onto the first sampan we could find.
It was a smaller wooden boat, the sort that looks like it has survived several typhoons and quite possibly the fall of the Ming Dynasty. Our captain was an older lady with very little English, which put her roughly on a par with my Cantonese. She handed us a laminated card showing two options: a half-hour trip around the harbour or an hour-long one. We decided on the longer trip. Well, we were already wet.
I had visited Aberdeen thirty years earlier, and the place had stuck in my memory for all the wrong reasons. Back then, Aberdeen Harbour was home to the Tanka people — a fishing community who had lived on the water for generations, their entire lives played out on boats that were, frankly, barely fit for purpose. These families cooked, slept, raised children and kept warm on open fires lit right there on the deck. The boats were ramshackle, the conditions were grim, and the whole place had the air of a floating village that had been quietly forgotten by the rest of Hong Kong.
Today it is rather different. Aberdeen has been, as they say, gentrified. The houseboats are still there if you know where to look, but there are considerably fewer of them, and they sit rather awkwardly alongside rows of very large, very expensive yachts. The harbour itself is now ringed by gleaming high-rise apartment blocks — the kind that estate agents in London would describe as “luxury waterfront living” and price accordingly. Progress, I suppose.
When we climbed aboard, there were already a few passengers on the sampan. They laughed as we stepped on and paid our fare of $200HK — which, at the time of writing, amounts to roughly twenty quid. We have a strong suspicion the laughing was entirely at our expense and the quite remarkable sum we had just handed over without question. Tourists, eh.
Our captain was impressively skilled, navigating with calm authority through an almost impossibly tight arrangement of fishing trawlers and houseboats, pausing occasionally to drop off the locals at various points around the harbour. For the next hour, we went from one end of Aberdeen to the other — from the smart end where the expensive yachts were moored, all gleaming fibreglass and satellite dishes, to the scruffier end where the old wooden houseboats still huddled alongside ancient, creaking fishing trawlers that looked like they’d last had a coat of paint during the Handover.
Along the route, we passed the famous Jumbo Floating Restaurant, which for decades had been one of Hong Kong’s most iconic landmarks. Built in 1976, it was a vast, ornate, multi-storey affair designed to look like an imperial Chinese palace, all red and gold and frankly over the top in the most magnificent way. At its peak it reportedly served four million guests a year and had hosted everyone from the Queen to Tom Cruise. It had been closed since the pandemic, and in 2022, somewhat sadly, it sank while being towed away — a fittingly dramatic end for something that had always been more spectacle than restaurant.
It was, all things considered, a thoroughly interesting hour on the water. And whatever else you might say about Aberdeen Harbour, it kept us completely dry through the entire rainstorm. Which, given the weather, was frankly the most we could have asked for.
🚗 Rolls-Royces, Rubber Boots and Rather Too Much Raw Fish
From Aberdeen, we made our way back into the city proper, jumping off the bus a mile or so short of our hotel. It seemed like a perfectly sensible idea at the time — a pleasant little stroll to stretch the legs and take in some fresh air. We are, after all, the sort of people who like to imagine we’re adventurous.
As it turned out, the walk rewarded us rather handsomely. Along the way, we found ourselves passing a strip of what I can only describe as comically exclusive car showrooms. There, gleaming behind vast plate-glass windows like exhibits in a museum dedicated to the obscenely rich, sat a line-up of Maseratis and Rolls-Royces, along with a few other marques that exist solely to make normal people feel inadequate. The Maserati, for the uninitiated, is an Italian grand tourer with roots going back to 1914, founded by the Maserati brothers in Bologna and now — thanks to the curious economics of the modern world — owned by Stellantis. The Rolls-Royce, of course, needs no introduction; it has been the favoured conveyance of royalty, heads of state, and footballers since Charles Rolls and Henry Royce shook hands on a deal in Manchester in 1904. We pressed our noses against the glass for a moment, silently acknowledged that neither of us would ever own one, and moved on.
And then, almost without warning, the street transformed entirely. From the world of hand-stitched leather interiors and bespoke paint finishes, we stepped straight into a bustling, noisy, wonderfully chaotic wet market. The contrast was so sudden it was almost funny — one minute you’re peering at a car that costs more than a semi-detached in Wolverhampton, and the next you’re dodging a woman with a bag of live crabs.
The market itself was a genuinely spectacular thing. Stall after stall was piled high with produce of every imaginable description — great mounds of tropical fruits, glistening vegetables in colours that don’t really exist back home, trays of freshly baked goods that smelled absolutely wonderful, and entire sections devoted to meat and fish that would have made a decent-sized supermarket look a bit feeble. These sorts of markets have a long history throughout East and Southeast Asia; they’ve been the beating heart of daily life and commerce for centuries, long before anyone thought to wrap everything in plastic and put it in a chilled aisle. Vendors typically arrive well before dawn, and the whole operation runs with an organised frenzy that’s deeply impressive once you get past the initial sensory overload.
We wandered through it all in a state of mild, happy bewilderment. There was one thing, though, that rather brought the mood down. Amongst the fish stalls, we noticed that many of the fish were still alive — laid out in shallow plastic trays, gasping in the open air, flapping weakly in that thoroughly miserable way that fish do when they are very much not in water. We understood, of course, that in many food cultures this is considered a mark of freshness — and that is a fair enough point. But understanding something intellectually doesn’t stop it being a bit grim to watch. It saddened us, if we’re honest, and we moved along fairly briskly after that, which was probably for the best.
Still — a market like that, taken as a whole, was a vivid and rather brilliant thing. Not the sort of experience you get wandering round a Tesco Extra on a Tuesday evening, that’s for sure.
🌙 Temple Street Night Market — Getting Lost So You Don’t Have To
After a thoroughly necessary post-lunch snooze — and I make no apologies for that whatsoever, it was 30-odd degrees, and we’re not as young as we used to be — we roused ourselves and headed over to Kowloon for the famous Temple Street Night Market.
The plan, as ever, was simple enough: walk to the nearest MTR station from the hotel and hop on a train. Simple. Foolproof, even. Well. It turns out that “simple” and “Hong Kong’s street layout” are not particularly well acquainted with each other. What should have been a fairly straightforward stroll through the streets of Wan Chai turned into one of those meandering odysseys that only ever seems to happen when you’re already slightly sweaty and mildly irritable. We wandered, we second-guessed ourselves, we wandered some more.
We eventually surfaced, blinking and slightly bewildered, at Times Square — the Hong Kong version, not the one in New York. Which, it has to be said, is significantly cleaner and rather less likely to involve someone dressed as a giant Elmo demanding money for a photograph. Opened in 1994 in the Causeway Bay district, Hong Kong’s Times Square is a massive 16-floor shopping mall that’s become something of a local landmark in its own right. It does bear a passing resemblance to its New York namesake in the sense that it is very shiny, very vertical, and absolutely stuffed with shops you can’t really afford — Prada, Louis Vuitton, that sort of thing. Very upscale. Very not-us. We had a good nosy around and then pressed on.
From Times Square, we picked up the MTR — Hong Kong’s Mass Transit Railway — which, for those who haven’t used it, is one of the genuinely great urban rail systems on the planet. It’s clean, it’s air-conditioned (bless it), it runs on time, and it goes basically everywhere. We rode it to the Jordan station, which sits at the heart of one of Kowloon’s most atmospheric and densely packed neighbourhoods. Jordan itself is named not after the country or the basketball player, but after Sir John Jordan, a British diplomat who served as Minister to China in the early twentieth century — a little bit of colonial history baked right into the street signs.
The Jordan area has been a bustling residential and commercial district since the early days of Kowloon’s development in the late nineteenth century, when the British expanded their foothold on the Chinese mainland. Today it’s a glorious, slightly chaotic mix of noodle shops, jade dealers, fortune tellers, herbalists, and the kind of street-level energy that makes you feel like you’re genuinely somewhere rather than just passing through. The Temple Street Night Market, which begins to properly come alive from around six in the evening, has been operating here since at least the 1920s and has long been a fixture of Hong Kong working-class life — a place where you could eat well, buy cheaply, and have your fortune read all within about fifty yards of each other.
The market stretched the full length of a long street, vendor after vendor lined up on both sides like a very long, very disappointing duty-free. And what were they selling? I’ll be generous and call it stuff. Less generously, and more accurately, it was crap — the kind of tat that exists solely because tourists feel an inexplicable obligation to buy something to prove they were there. A little plastic elephant. A fridge magnet. A “genuine” silk scarf that would dissolve in the first wash.
It bore absolutely no resemblance to the magnificent bazaars we’d wandered through in India — those extraordinary labyrinths of colour, noise and spice that have been trading continuously for centuries. This was not that. Not even close.
Beyond the temporary stalls, the permanent shops had their own particular flavour of commerce. Knock-off branded clothing, electronics of dubious provenance, pornographic photographs, and — rather unexpectedly — quite a few wigs. I didn’t ask. Some questions are better left unasked.
Further along, a number of young women were offering services that were, shall we say, not on any official market price list. One does one’s best to look like a man who has seen the world and is therefore unshockable. I probably managed about forty percent of that.
Now, having comprehensively rubbished the entire experience, I should in the interests of fairness point out that it was a perfectly decent excursion — the sort of thing you’re glad you did even if you can’t entirely explain why. And the food, as ever, was absolutely delicious.
Planning Your Visit to Hong Kong
🌏 Planning Your Visit to Hong Kong
Hong Kong is one of Asia’s most extraordinary cities — a dazzling fusion of East and West, ancient tradition and hyper-modernity, soaring skyscrapers and serene hiking trails. As a Special Administrative Region of China, it sits on the southeastern coast, occupying around 1,100 square kilometres across Hong Kong Island, the Kowloon Peninsula, the New Territories, and over 260 outlying islands. More than seven million people live within this compact territory, making it one of the most densely populated places on Earth — and one of the most thrillingly alive.
📍 Location & Geography
Hong Kong divides broadly into four areas. Hong Kong Island is home to the financial heart of the city — Central, Wan Chai, and Admiralty — as well as the gentler southern shores of Stanley and Repulse Bay. The Kowloon Peninsula, directly across Victoria Harbour, is a bustling, colourful mass of markets, temples, and street food, anchored by the famous districts of Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok. The New Territories stretch northward toward the border with mainland China and contain much of Hong Kong’s surprisingly extensive countryside. Beyond the city lie the outlying islands — Lantau (Hong Kong’s largest), Lamma, Cheung Chau, and others — offering a quieter, more rural pace of life.
Victoria Harbour, the body of water separating Kowloon from Hong Kong Island, is the dramatic centrepiece of the city, framed by one of the world’s most iconic skylines.
✈️ Getting There
Hong Kong International Airport (IATA: HKG), located on the island of Chek Lap Kok off northern Lantau, is one of the busiest and most well-connected airports in the world. Direct flights operate from cities across Europe, the Americas, the Middle East, and throughout Asia and the Pacific. The airport is consistently rated among the best in the world and is a major transit hub, meaning many long-haul journeys to other Asian destinations route through here.
The Airport Express train connects the airport to Hong Kong Station in Central in around 24 minutes, running frequently throughout the day and evening. Extensive bus services also link the airport to most parts of Hong Kong at considerably lower cost.
A useful service for those arriving from mainland China is the high-speed rail link from Guangzhou, Shenzhen, and Beijing, terminating at the West Kowloon station — a sleek, modern terminus that is itself worth admiring.
🎟️ Visas & Entry
Nationals of most countries do not require a visa to enter Hong Kong for tourism, with permitted stays ranging from seven to 180 days depending on nationality. It is important to note that Hong Kong operates entirely separate immigration rules from mainland China — a visa for one does not grant entry to the other.
You are required to hold a valid return or onward ticket and have sufficient funds for your stay. Working, studying, or conducting business is not permitted on a visitor entry. If you intend to stay beyond the visa-free period allowed for your nationality, you must apply for the appropriate visa before travelling.
Since early 2025, Hong Kong has abolished the paper arrival card previously required upon entry, streamlining the process for most visitors.
A departure tax applies to all passengers leaving by air.
🏙️ Neighbourhoods & Attractions
Hong Kong Island offers an extraordinary range of experiences within a small area. The Peak — Victoria Peak — provides the city’s most famous panoramic view, and the historic Peak Tram, operating since 1888, makes the ascent a spectacle in itself. The streets of Central and SoHo are lined with everything from heritage market stalls to sleek cocktail bars, while Wan Chai and Causeway Bay pulse with shopping energy at all hours. For a more relaxed pace, the southern coast villages of Stanley and Tai O — the latter a stilted fishing village — give a glimpse of old Hong Kong.
Kowloon rewards aimless exploration. Tsim Sha Tsui faces the harbour and is home to the Clock Tower, the Hong Kong Space Museum, and the Museum of Art, as well as the endlessly photogenic Avenue of Stars. Mong Kok, one of the most densely populated places on the planet, is a sensory overload in the best possible way — its Flower Market, Goldfish Market, and Ladies’ Market are quintessential Hong Kong. The newer West Kowloon Cultural District has become a major arts destination, home to the M+ museum of visual culture and the Hong Kong Palace Museum.
The New Territories and the islands are surprisingly overlooked by visitors. Lantau Island is home to the vast Tian Tan Buddha (the Big Buddha) and the atmospheric Ngong Ping village, as well as the earthy charms of Tai O. Cheung Chau is famous for its bun festival and car-free village streets, while Lamma Island offers relaxed seafood dining and coastal walks.
Victoria Harbour itself should not be missed at night, when the nightly light show — the Symphony of Lights — illuminates both shorelines. The Star Ferry, one of the great waterborne crossings of the world, connects Kowloon and Hong Kong Island for a matter of pennies and frames the skyline magnificently.
🍜 Food & Drink
Hong Kong is a world-class food destination by any measure. The city has an extraordinary density of Michelin-starred restaurants, yet some of its most celebrated eating happens in humble cha chaan tengs (Hong Kong-style cafés) and open-fronted noodle shops. Dim sum — served in trolley-wheeled or written-order fashion — is an institution, particularly at weekend mornings. Egg tarts, pineapple buns, wonton noodle soup, roast goose, and barbecue pork are essential local staples.
Street food is integral to the city’s culture. Temple Street Night Market in Kowloon is a good starting point, and the Sham Shui Po neighbourhood offers an authentic, less touristy eating experience. The city’s food scene moves quickly — breakfast often begins before 8am, lunch is brisk and efficient, and restaurants turn tables swiftly in the evening.
Dining here reflects the city’s extraordinary international character. Cuisines from across the world sit alongside Cantonese, Shanghainese, and Sichuan restaurants in every district.
🛍️ Shopping
Shopping in Hong Kong ranges from designer boutiques and glittering malls to bargain street markets. Harbour City in Tsim Sha Tsui and IFC Mall in Central cater to luxury brands, while Ladies’ Market in Mong Kok and the night markets in Kowloon offer inexpensive clothing, accessories, and souvenirs. Electronics have historically been a draw, though prices are now broadly competitive with other global cities. Stanley Market on the south side of Hong Kong Island is a popular and atmospheric spot for jewellery, clothing, and Chinese arts and crafts.
The Octopus Card — a reloadable smart card — is indispensable for getting around on public transport and paying at many shops, restaurants, and attractions. It is available from the airport upon arrival.
🌿 Nature & the Outdoors
A remarkable 40 per cent of Hong Kong’s land area is protected country park, and the hiking here is genuinely world class. The MacLehose Trail stretches more than 100 kilometres across the New Territories, while the Dragon’s Back trail on Hong Kong Island is considered one of the finest urban hikes in Asia. Sai Kung in the New Territories offers dramatic coastal scenery and access to the UNESCO-recognised Hong Kong Global Geopark.
🏛️ Culture & Customs
Hong Kong’s culture is shaped by its unique position as a former British colony with deep Chinese roots, producing a society that is simultaneously cosmopolitan and firmly grounded in Cantonese tradition. Visitors who are sensitive to this layered identity will find the city far richer for it.
Greetings are generally formal. A handshake is appropriate when meeting someone for the first time, and excessive physical contact — hugging or kissing on the cheek in greeting — is not the local norm. Public displays of affection are considered inappropriate.
Dining etiquette carries specific customs. At many Chinese restaurants, two sets of chopsticks are provided — one for personal use, one for taking food from shared dishes. Never leave chopsticks standing upright in a rice bowl, as this resembles funeral incense offerings. When pouring tea, serve others before yourself. At dim sum restaurants, tapping two fingers lightly on the table is the traditional way to thank someone who has filled your cup. The pace of meals is generally faster than in Western Europe — lingering over a table is less common.
Numbers and superstitions play a meaningful role in everyday life. The number four is considered deeply unlucky, as its Cantonese pronunciation resembles the word for death. Many buildings therefore have no fourth floor — or any floor with a four in its number — skipping from 3 to 5, and from 13 to 15. The number eight, by contrast, is considered highly auspicious.
Gift-giving, should you visit someone’s home, follows its own etiquette. Gifts wrapped in red or gold are welcomed; clocks and watches are strongly to be avoided as gifts, as they symbolise counting down to death. Present any gift with two hands.
Hong Kong’s society prizes efficiency, punctuality, and orderliness in public spaces. Queue-jumping is strongly frowned upon. On escalators, stand to the right to allow others to pass on the left.
⚖️ Laws & Legal Awareness
Hong Kong operates under its own distinct legal system, separate from mainland China, based on common law — a legacy of its British colonial history. That said, the legal landscape has changed significantly in recent years and visitors should be aware of the current environment.
The National Security Law (2020) and the Safeguarding National Security Ordinance (2024) — commonly referred to as Article 23 — created a broad framework of offences including sedition, espionage, external interference, and acts deemed to undermine national security. These laws are defined in expansive terms and have, in some cases, been applied to speech, social media posts, and other forms of expression. Visitors should be aware that criticism of the Chinese or Hong Kong governments, whether in person or on social media, may be subject to this legislation — and that posts made before arriving in Hong Kong, including those made abroad, have in documented cases been used as the basis for prosecution.
As of March 2026, security regulations were further expanded to require that visitors — including those transiting Hong Kong International Airport — must provide device passwords or decryption assistance to police upon request in national security cases. Refusing to do so is now a criminal offence. It is advisable to check the current travel advisory issued by your own country’s government before departing.
Drug laws are strict, and penalties are severe. Hong Kong has zero tolerance for narcotics possession or trafficking. Items that may be legal elsewhere — including e-cigarettes and certain self-defence products such as pepper spray or knuckle-dusters — are either prohibited or tightly controlled. All luggage is scanned upon entry, and violations carry serious legal consequences.
Working in Hong Kong on a visitor visa — even unpaid — is prohibited by law.
Violent crime against visitors is rare, and Hong Kong is generally considered a very safe city. Petty theft — pickpocketing and bag-snatching — does occur in crowded areas including airports, markets, and on public transport, so standard urban vigilance applies.
💰 Money & Practicalities
Hong Kong uses the Hong Kong Dollar (HKD), which is pegged to the US Dollar. Currency exchange is straightforward, with authorised money changers available throughout the city and at the airport. ATMs accept international cards, and credit cards and mobile payments are widely accepted. From January 2025, a hotel accommodation tax applies to all hotel and guesthouse stays.
Both Cantonese and English are official languages, and English is widely used in government, tourism, transport, and business — making Hong Kong one of the most accessible Asian cities for English-speaking visitors. Signage throughout the city is bilingual.
The electrical supply is 220V, using the same three-pin square plug used in the United Kingdom. Free public Wi-Fi is available across the city, including in MTR (metro) stations and shopping centres.
Getting Around Hong Kong
🚆 The MTR (Mass Transit Railway)
The MTR is the backbone of Hong Kong’s transport system and one of the finest metro networks in the world. It is clean, punctual, and covers the vast majority of places a visitor will want to reach — from Hong Kong Island and Kowloon to the New Territories and the airport.
Lines of particular use to visitors include:
- Airport Express – Links the airport to Hong Kong Station in just 24 minutes, with in-town check-in available at Hong Kong and Kowloon stations
- Tung Chung Line – Connects Lantau Island to the city centre
- Tsuen Wan, Island, and Kwun Tong Lines – Cover the main urban areas
💳 Octopus Card The Octopus Card is a rechargeable contactless smart card and is absolutely essential for getting around Hong Kong. It can be used on the MTR, buses, trams, ferries, minibuses, and even in convenience stores, supermarkets, and many restaurants. Cards can be purchased and topped up at MTR Customer Service Centres and Octopus Add Value Machines at any MTR station. A refundable deposit of HK$50 applies.
A Tourist Octopus Card is also available, offering a pre-loaded balance with no deposit required. 🌐 www.octopus.com.hk
🎟️ MTR Tourist Day Pass For unlimited MTR travel within one day (excluding the Airport Express and certain outlying lines), the MTR Tourist Day Pass offers excellent value and is available at airport and selected MTR stations.
🚌 Buses
Hong Kong’s bus network is extensive and reaches areas that the MTR does not. The main operators are:
- KMB (Kowloon Motor Bus) – Serves Kowloon and the New Territories 🌐 www.kmb.hk
- Citybus – Serves Hong Kong Island, cross-harbour routes, and the airport 🌐 www.citybus.com.hk
- New Lantao Bus – Serves Lantau Island 🌐 www.newlantaobus.com
Buses accept Octopus Card or exact cash fare (no change is given). Route information and real-time arrivals are available through the KMB and Citybus apps.
🚃 Trams (Ding Dings)
The iconic double-decker trams running along the northern shore of Hong Kong Island are one of the city’s most beloved institutions — and one of the cheapest ways to travel. Known affectionately as “ding dings” for the sound of their bells, they have been trundling along since 1904.
The flat fare of HK$3 (adults) is payable by Octopus Card or cash on exit. They run between Kennedy Town in the west and Shau Kei Wan in the east, with a branch to Happy Valley. 🌐 www.hktramways.com
⛴️ Star Ferry
No visit to Hong Kong is complete without a ride on the Star Ferry, one of the world’s most famous and scenic harbour crossings. Linking Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon with Central and Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island, it offers extraordinary views of the skyline at a very modest fare.
Fares start from around HK$3.40 on the lower deck and HK$4.20 on the upper deck. The Octopus Card is accepted. 🌐 www.starferry.com.hk
🚡 Outlying Islands Ferries
Hong Kong’s outlying islands — including Lantau, Cheung Chau, Lamma, and Peng Chau — are served by regular ferry services operated by New World First Ferry and other companies. Services depart from the Outlying Islands Ferry Piers in Central. Octopus Card is accepted on most routes. 🌐 www.nwff.com.hk
🚠 Cable Car: Ngong Ping 360
The Ngong Ping 360 cable car on Lantau Island offers a spectacular 25-minute gondola ride from Tung Chung to the Ngong Ping plateau, near the famous Tian Tan (Big) Buddha. Standard and crystal-floor cabins are available. Pre-booking is recommended. 🌐 www.np360.com.hk
🚡 Peak Tram
The Peak Tram is a funicular railway that has been carrying passengers up to Victoria Peak since 1888. It departs from Garden Road in Central and reaches the Peak in around 7 minutes, offering increasingly dramatic views of the city below. It is one of Hong Kong’s most visited attractions as well as a practical way to reach the Peak.
The Octopus Card is accepted, and combination tickets with the Sky Terrace 428 observation deck are available. 🌐
🚕 Taxis
Taxis in Hong Kong are colour-coded by region:
- 🔴 Red – Urban taxis (Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, New Territories)
- 🟢 Green – New Territories only
- 🔵 Blue – Lantau Island only
Taxis are metered, generally honest, and reasonably priced by international standards. Most drivers in urban areas speak some English, though having your destination written in Chinese characters can be helpful. Octopus Card payment is accepted in many but not all taxis.
🛵 Minibuses
Green minibuses (GMBs) run fixed routes with fixed fares, while red minibuses run more flexible routes. Green minibuses are the more visitor-friendly of the two and accept the Octopus Card. They are useful for reaching areas not served by larger buses or the MTR.
🚶 Walking
Many of Hong Kong’s most rewarding experiences are best enjoyed on foot. The Central–Mid-Levels Escalator, the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator system, runs from Central up through the Mid-Levels neighbourhood and is free to use. The city also has an extensive network of elevated walkways connecting many buildings and MTR stations in the business districts, allowing pedestrians to navigate large areas without descending to street level.
💡 Tips for Getting Around
- Download the MTR app for journey planning, real-time train information, and tourist pass details
- Google Maps works reliably in Hong Kong and includes public transport directions
- Avoid taxis during rush hour (08:00–09:30 and 17:30–19:30) when traffic can be very heavy
- Top up your Octopus Card before heading to outlying islands, where facilities may be limited
- Airport Express in-town check-in at Hong Kong and Kowloon stations allows you to check your baggage up to a day before your flight — a great convenience
Best time to visit Hong Kong
Hong Kong’s climate is shaped by its subtropical location and the East Asian monsoon, meaning the city experiences four distinct seasons — each with its own character, crowds, and considerations for visitors.
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring in Hong Kong is a transitional season that starts mild and gradually warms, but it brings a notoriously persistent hazard: fog and haze. March and April are characterised by high humidity, low cloud, and a damp, milky mist that clings to the hills and often obscures the famous skyline. Temperatures range from around 18°C in March to 27°C by May, climbing steadily as the season progresses. Rainfall increases as the months go on, with May marking the start of the wetter period. Despite the haze, spring offers fewer crowds than the winter peak season and more moderate hotel rates. The city’s parks and gardens — including Hong Kong Park and Kowloon Walled City Park — are lush and verdant, and the mild warmth makes sightseeing on foot genuinely enjoyable. The annual Hong Kong Rugby Sevens, one of Asia’s biggest sporting events, typically falls in early April, drawing large international crowds and filling hotels quickly.
What to pack: Light layers and a waterproof jacket, a compact umbrella or foldable poncho, breathable trousers and tops, comfortable walking shoes with grip, a light jumper for air-conditioned interiors, sunscreen and lip balm.
☀️ Summer (June to August)
Summer is Hong Kong at its most extreme — hot, humid, and frequently dramatic. Temperatures regularly reach 33°C or above, and the humidity makes it feel considerably hotter. This is typhoon season, and storms can sweep in with little warning, occasionally shutting down transport, businesses, and public services entirely. The city operates a numbered typhoon signal system, and visitors should download the Hong Kong Observatory app to track warnings. Despite the heat and occasional disruptions, summer has genuine advantages: long daylight hours, vibrant outdoor night markets, the spectacular Dragon Boat Festival (typically in June), and lively beach scenes at Repulse Bay, Big Wave Bay, and Shek O. Shopping malls become an attractive refuge from the heat, and the air conditioning inside is intense enough to warrant a cardigan at all times. This is also the cheapest time to visit, with lower airfares and hotel rates reflecting the season’s reputation.
What to pack: Lightweight, moisture-wicking clothing, a compact umbrella for both rain and sun, a light cardigan or thin layer for air-conditioned spaces, flip-flops or sandals alongside one pair of sturdy shoes, a reusable water bottle, insect repellent, high-SPF sunscreen, and a waterproof bag cover.
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is widely regarded as the most pleasant time to visit Hong Kong, and it is easy to see why. The humidity drops, the skies clear to a vivid blue, and temperatures settle into a comfortable range of around 20°C to 28°C. Typhoon risk remains in September but diminishes sharply through October and November. The air quality is excellent by Hong Kong standards, making it ideal for hiking — trails such as the Dragon’s Back, MacLehose, and Wilson offer outstanding views that are genuinely clear rather than haze-obscured. The Mid-Autumn Festival, celebrated with mooncakes and vibrant lantern displays in Victoria Park and across the city, usually falls in September or October and is one of the most visually memorable cultural events Hong Kong offers. October and November in particular see the city at its sociable best, with outdoor dining, harbour-front walks, and rooftop bars all operating in perfect conditions. Crowds and prices begin to rise from mid-October as peak season approaches.
What to pack: Light clothing for the day with a medium-weight layer for evenings, comfortable walking or hiking shoes, a packable wind-resistant jacket, sunglasses and sunscreen, a small daypack for hiking trips, and a light scarf for cooler November evenings.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Hong Kong is nothing like a European winter — there is no snow, rarely any frost, and average temperatures hover between 15°C and 20°C during the day. However, cold fronts do sweep in from the north, occasionally pushing temperatures into single figures at night, and the wind chill on the harbour or atop Victoria Peak can be surprisingly biting. This is the peak tourist season, driven largely by Christmas, New Year, and Chinese New Year (which falls in January or February depending on the lunar calendar). Chinese New Year brings spectacular firecracker displays, night parades, the Harbour Firecracker Carnival, and the iconic harbour fireworks — but also significantly increased hotel prices and packed transport. The cooler, dry air makes outdoor exploring exceptionally comfortable: the Peak is reliably clear, harbour cruises are pleasant, and walking the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade or exploring street markets in Mong Kok requires no heat-fuelled endurance. It is worth noting that many restaurants and shops operate reduced hours or close entirely during the first few days of Chinese New Year.
What to pack: Smart casual layers that can be added or removed, a proper mid-weight jacket or warm coat for cold fronts, a jumper or fleece, a scarf and light gloves for windy evenings, comfortable closed-toe shoes, and a compact umbrella for the occasional drizzle.
🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit
For most visitors, October and November represent the sweet spot for a trip to Hong Kong. The heat and humidity have retreated, the typhoon season is effectively over, and the city rewards outdoor exploration with clear skies, comfortable temperatures, and superb visibility from its hilltops, harbours, and rooftops. Autumn combines Hong Kong’s finest hiking conditions with its most vibrant cultural calendar, and the pace of the city feels genuinely animated without the exhausting overcrowding of the Chinese New Year period. That said, if budget is a priority and heat is no deterrent, June and July offer the most significant savings on flights and hotels. And for those drawn to festive spectacle and the extraordinary energy of Chinese New Year, winter — despite higher prices — delivers an experience unlike anywhere else in the world.
Vegan Dining In Hong Kong
Hong Kong may be famous for its roast meats and seafood, but the city’s vegan and plant-based dining scene has grown impressively in recent years. From elegant Chinese fine dining and organic cafés to casual grab-and-go wraps and street food, the options are surprisingly diverse and exciting. Below are some of the most well-known and well-loved vegan and vegetarian spots in the city.
🥗 Green Common
Green Common is one of Hong Kong’s most recognisable plant-based brands, functioning as both a concept grocery store and restaurant. Often described as a pioneer in global food-tech, it promotes sustainable living by sourcing from organic farms, social enterprises, and local small businesses. The menu spans ramen, Italian-style pasta, veggie burgers, power bowls, and salads — all fully vegan or vegetarian. Multiple locations across the city make it very accessible.
- Location: Multiple branches including G/F, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 3–27 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; and Shop 110, 1/F, The Forest, 17 Nelson Street, Mong Kok
- Website: greencommon.com
- Phone: +852 3102 1220 (Tsim Sha Tsui); +852 2110 0194 (Mong Kok)
- Opening hours:
- Tsim Sha Tsui: Daily, 11:30am – 9:30pm
- Mong Kok: Daily, 12:00pm – 10:00pm
🌿 Root Vegan
A firm favourite among Hong Kong’s vegan community, Root Vegan is celebrated for its creative, flavourful menu drawing on Southeast Asian and local influences — think Khao Soi Northern Thai curry noodles, Korean bibimbap, smoked “salmon” cream cheese crackers, and dairy-free cakes. Tucked away on the first floor of a building in Central, it has a warm, welcoming atmosphere and caters well to those new to plant-based eating.
- Location: Shop 102–103, 1/F, Sunwise Building, 112–114 Wellington Street, Central
- Website: rootvegan.hk
- Phone: +852 9850 9558
- Opening hours:
- Daily, 12:00pm – 9:30pm (last order 8:30pm)
🌳 TREEHOUSE
Founded by French-trained chef Christian G. Mongendre, TREEHOUSE is Hong Kong’s leading fast-casual plant-based dining brand. Its flagship sits on the picturesque Pottinger Street steps in Central, with several additional branches across the city. The menu is built around handmade sourdough flatbread wraps, nutritious grain bowls, salads, and burgers — all made with organic, sustainably sourced ingredients. It’s a highly practical, high-quality option for eating on the go.
- Location: Multiple branches; Flagship at Shop 1, G/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. Also in Causeway Bay, Quarry Bay (Taikoo Place), Tsim Sha Tsui, and Kai Tak
- Website: treehouse.eco
- Phone: +852 3791 2277 (Central flagship); +852 5580 0072 (Causeway Bay); +852 2456 9611 (Taikoo Place)
- Opening hours:
- Varies by location; generally daily, 11:00am – 9:00pm
🏮 Pure Veggie House 心齋
Established in 2007, Pure Veggie House is a revered Chinese vegan restaurant with a Buddhist ethos, dedicated to nature and harmony. All produce is sourced from the restaurant’s own ecological farm. The restaurant is particularly celebrated for its exquisite vegan dim sum — including xiao long bao, pineapple BBQ pork buns, and truffle rice noodle rolls — as well as seasonal vegan hotpot in winter. It is beloved by both local diners and expats for its refined, hotel-quality food at reasonable prices.
- Location: 6/F, M88 Wellington Place, 2–8 Wellington Street, Central (current main branch)
- Website: facebook.com/pureveggiehouse
- Phone: +852 2525 0552
- Opening hours:
- Daily, 9:00am – 4:30pm and 6:00pm – 11:00pm
🍜 YEARS & The Park by Years
YEARS is a beloved vegan café group with multiple branches across Kowloon. The original YEARS café in Sham Shui Po has a Japanese-inspired feel and serves comforting dishes like katsu curry risotto, Portobello mushroom burgers, and tom yum spaghetti in generous portions. Its sibling venue, The Park by Years, is a fully 100% plant-based offshoot just a few streets away, serving beautifully plated dishes such as raw lemon cheesecake, zucchini noodle salads, and Impossible Bolognese. YEARS also operates Wanaka, a charming plant-based café within the heritage Blue House in Wan Chai.
- Location: YEARS at 191–199 Fuk Wah Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon. The Park by Years at 132 Yu Chau Street, Sham Shui Po. Wanaka at G/F, 8 King Sing Street, Wan Chai
- Website: yearshk.com
- Phone: +852 6338 3719 (YEARS); +852 5336 4000 (The Park by Years); +852 6080 8251 (Wanaka)
- Opening hours:
- YEARS & The Park by Years: Daily, 12:00pm – 10:00pm (last order 9:00pm)
- Wanaka: Weekdays 8:00am – 9:00pm; weekends 10:00am – 9:00pm
🌏 Loving Hut 愛家
Part of the internationally known Loving Hut chain, the Hong Kong outpost in Wan Chai has been a stalwart of the city’s vegan scene for years. The menu is broad and accessible, offering everything from vegan dim sum and pizza to Singaporean laksa and Chinese BBQ-style mock meats. All sauces are house-made and cakes are crafted from organic soy milk and raw sugar. It is a budget-friendly choice with a relaxed, no-frills atmosphere.
- Location: 2/F, Luen Tai Building, 93–99 Wan Chai Road, Wan Chai (principal branch; a second branch is at Shop 21 & 23, 2/F, KITEC, Kowloon Bay)
- Website: lovinghut.com.hk
- Phone: +852 2574 3248
- Opening hours:
- Daily, 7:45am – 9:45pm
Little Tai Hang is a 10-minute walk from Causeway Bay shopping area, while Central and Wanchai can be approached within 15 minutes by public transportation. The property is a 24.9 miles away from Hong Kong International Airport
Where to Stay in Hong Kong
🌟 1. Tsim Sha Tsui (TST), Kowloon
Tsim Sha Tsui — affectionately known as TST — is the jewel of the Kowloon Peninsula and arguably the single best area for first-time visitors to Hong Kong. Positioned right at the southern tip of Kowloon, it offers front-row seats to one of the most spectacular urban waterfronts on earth: the Victoria Harbour skyline, glittering with skyscrapers and lit up nightly by the “A Symphony of Lights” laser show. The famous Avenue of Stars stretches along the promenade, the historic Clock Tower marks where the old Kowloon-Canton Railway once terminated, and world-class cultural institutions — including the Hong Kong Museum of Art, the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, and the Space Museum — are all within easy walking distance. Harbour City, one of Asia’s largest shopping complexes, sits on the doorstep, alongside K11 MUSEA, a pioneering art-retail destination that blends permanent exhibitions with high-end dining and boutiques.
Beyond its iconic landmarks, TST is exceptionally well connected. Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station and East Tsim Sha Tsui Station put the entire city within reach, and the Star Ferry terminal — just minutes away on foot — remains one of the most romantic and practical ways to cross to Hong Kong Island. Nathan Road, the district’s famous “golden mile,” is lined with restaurants, jewellers, electronics shops, and tailors catering to every budget. The neighbourhood buzzes around the clock, making it ideal for travellers who want to be at the heart of the action. With a dense concentration of accommodation across all price points, outstanding transport links, and an unmatched mixture of culture, shopping, and harbour views, TST remains the top choice for tourists visiting Hong Kong.
🏨 Where to Stay in Tsim Sha Tsui
- ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Upscale — The Peninsula Hong Kong Opened in 1928 and still regarded as one of the finest hotels in Asia, The Peninsula is a living Hong Kong institution. Its fleet of Rolls-Royce limousines, Roman-style swimming pool, Peninsula Spa, and eight award-winning restaurants set a standard few hotels anywhere in the world can match. The lobby afternoon tea is legendary. Book on Booking.com
- ⭐⭐⭐ Mid-Range — The Salisbury – YMCA of Hong Kong Sitting directly beside The Peninsula on Salisbury Road, this is one of the great budget-for-location secrets in Hong Kong. Its 372 rooms include many with panoramic Victoria Harbour views, and its facilities — including an indoor pool, climbing wall, squash courts, and fitness centre — far exceed what you’d expect. Rated 8.8/10 (Very Good) by nearly 5,000 guests on Booking.com. Book on Booking.com
- 🛏️ Budget — Lup Tuc Hostel A popular, well-reviewed budget hostel close to the TST MTR station and within walking distance of Victoria Harbour and the Avenue of Stars. Clean rooms, air conditioning, helpful staff, and an unbeatable location make it the top budget pick in the area for backpackers and solo travellers. Book on Booking.com
🏙️ 2. Central, Hong Kong Island
Central is the beating financial heart of Hong Kong Island and one of the most exhilarating places to base yourself in Asia. The skyline of towering steel and glass is a spectacle in itself, but what makes Central so remarkable for tourists is that it manages to be simultaneously a global financial powerhouse and a deeply characterful neighbourhood full of hidden gems. The world-famous Mid-Levels Escalator — the longest outdoor covered escalator system on the planet — winds up through the district, connecting the Central business area to the bohemian SoHo dining and bar scene above, as well as the arty streets of NoHo beyond. The Peak Tram terminus is within easy reach, offering a short, dramatic ride up to Victoria Peak and some of the most breathtaking city views imaginable, particularly at dusk. Heritage buildings, colonial remnants, and sleek modern towers stand side by side, giving Central a visual richness that never tires.
For those who love eating and drinking, Central is practically unrivalled. Lan Kwai Fong, the compact but legendary alleyway entertainment district, is packed with international restaurants, rooftop bars, and late-night venues drawing both locals and visitors. The IFC Mall at Hong Kong Station provides seamless access to the Airport Express as well as an impressive collection of luxury retail and dining. The Central Ferry Piers make it easy to hop across to Tsim Sha Tsui or out to the outlying islands. Whether you’re setting out for a hike up to The Peak, exploring Man Mo Temple in the winding streets of Sheung Wan nearby, or sipping cocktails in a rooftop bar at sunset, Central offers an extraordinary quality of experience that suits the discerning traveller perfectly.
🏨 Where to Stay in Central
- ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Upscale — Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong Set within the International Finance Centre (IFC) complex right on the harbour waterfront, the Four Seasons is Central’s definitive luxury address. Its restaurants hold a combined seven Michelin stars, its two infinity pools are showstoppers, and the spa is among the finest in Asia. Floor-to-ceiling windows in many rooms offer breathtaking views of Victoria Harbour, Kowloon, and Victoria Peak. Book on Booking.com
- ⭐⭐⭐ Mid-Range — Bishop Lei International House Located on Robinson Road in the Mid-Levels, just a short stroll from the Escalator, Lan Kwai Fong, and SoHo, Bishop Lei is widely regarded as the best-value mid-range hotel in the Central area. City and harbour views, a free shuttle bus to Hong Kong Station, and an outdoor pool sweeten the deal considerably. Rated 9.0/10 (Wonderful) on Booking.com. Book on Booking.com
🛍️ 3. Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Island
Causeway Bay is Hong Kong retail royalty — a district so devoted to shopping that it draws dedicated shoppers from across Asia, yet it is also a genuinely wonderful place to be based as a tourist. The neighbourhood sits on the northern shore of Hong Kong Island between Central and Wan Chai, and its streets pulse with an energy that is quintessentially Hong Kong: neon signs, packed tram lines rattling along the waterfront, the scent of street food mixing with the perfume of air-conditioned luxury boutiques, and a sense that commerce and culture are in constant, joyful collision. Times Square, SOGO, Hysan Place, and Fashion Walk are all within the immediate vicinity, offering everything from fast-fashion to high-end international brands. The area is also home to Hong Kong Stadium, the famous Happy Valley Racecourse (one of the most atmospheric horse-racing venues anywhere in the world), and the beautiful Victoria Park — a welcome oasis of green at the heart of the urban buzz.
For food lovers, Causeway Bay is a serious destination in its own right. The streets surrounding the MTR station are lined with Cantonese roast meat shops, ramen restaurants, traditional noodle houses, and a clutch of Michelin-starred establishments. Ho Hung Kee, one of Hong Kong’s oldest wonton noodle shops, has earned a Michelin star and remains a beloved local institution in the area. The MTR’s Island Line runs through Causeway Bay Station, making it effortless to reach Central, Wan Chai, and beyond, while the historic Hong Kong Tramway — the beloved “ding ding” — trundles along the northern shore providing a scenic and affordable way to travel. The area is also served by frequent cross-harbour ferries to Tsim Sha Tsui, offering glorious harbour views on what may be the world’s most scenic short ferry ride.
🏨 Where to Stay in Causeway Bay
- ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Upscale — The Park Lane Hong Kong, Autograph Collection Occupying a prime position directly opposite Victoria Park and moments from the MTR, The Park Lane is the undisputed luxury benchmark in Causeway Bay. Its 820 rooms and suites offer modern design with strong city views from higher floors, and the rooftop SKYE Bar & Brasserie on the 27th floor is one of the most spectacular places to dine in Hong Kong. A favourite for both business and leisure travellers who want luxury without quite the astronomical price tag of a harbour-front property. Book on Booking.com
- ⭐⭐⭐ Mid-Range — Eco Tree Hotel Causeway Bay A thoughtfully renovated, eco-conscious boutique hotel ideally positioned just one MTR stop from the heart of Causeway Bay, with easy walking access to Victoria Park and the Happy Valley Racecourse. Clean, modern rooms with all essential amenities, friendly and attentive staff, and a rating consistently above 80% across major booking platforms make this an excellent mid-range choice. Consistently praised for its warmth and convenience. Book on Booking.com
- 🛏️ Budget — Hi Backpackers (Hong Kong Hostel Group). Hysan Place just a 2-minute walk away, Times Square Hong Kong 500 metres nearby, and Hong Kong Stadium a 13-minute walk. Victoria Park lies 600 metres from the property, while Happy Valley Racecourse is a 15-minute walk. Book on Booking.com
🌀 4. Mong Kok, Kowloon
Mong Kok is Hong Kong at its most raw, vivid, and authentically local — a district that feels entirely different in character from the polished harbour-front world of TST just a few MTR stops away. Widely cited as one of the most densely populated places on the planet, Mong Kok is a sensory overload in the best possible sense: a labyrinth of specialist markets, packed dai pai dong (open-air food stalls), tiny shops selling everything from tropical fish to vintage sneakers, and narrow streets where locals outnumber tourists by a considerable margin. The famous Ladies’ Market on Tung Choi Street stretches for over a kilometre and is a brilliant place to browse for souvenirs, clothing, and accessories. The Flower Market on Flower Market Road is a riot of colour and fragrance, while the nearby Goldfish Market and Bird Market offer uniquely local spectacles that can only really be found in Hong Kong.
For budget-conscious travellers, Mong Kok is a revelation. The sheer density of restaurants means exceptional food at very low prices: you can eat magnificently at a traditional Cantonese roast restaurant, a steaming bowl of wonton noodles, or a Michelin Bib Gourmand dim sum house for a fraction of what you’d spend on Hong Kong Island. The area is also very well connected: Mong Kok Station on both the Tsuen Wan Line and the Kwun Tong Line provides rapid access to TST, Central, and every corner of Hong Kong, while the Mong Kok East Station on the East Rail Line gives onward connections to the New Territories and the mainland border. Staying here offers a genuine immersion into the city’s daily life — chaotic, colourful, endlessly fascinating, and utterly unlike anywhere else on earth.
🏨 Where to Stay in Mong Kok
- ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Upscale — Cordis, Hong Kong (by Langham Hospitality Group) Soaring above the Langham Place Shopping Mall on Shanghai Street, the 42-storey Cordis is the obvious luxury benchmark for Mong Kok. With 665 rooms and suites, a well-regarded spa, rooftop pool, and multiple dining options, it delivers a genuinely five-star experience in the midst of one of Hong Kong’s most energetic districts. The direct connection to Mong Kok MTR Station through the shopping mall is particularly convenient, and the hotel has been consistently praised for its service and facilities. Book on Booking.com
- ⭐⭐⭐ Mid-Range — Holiday Inn Express Hong Kong Mongkok Located on Dundas Street with excellent connectivity to Mong Kok MTR, this IHG property delivers reliable, comfortable, modern mid-range accommodation at a very fair price for the area. Rooms are compact but thoughtfully designed, the fitness centre is well-equipped, and the hotel’s positioning puts you within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market, the Flower Market, and all of Mong Kok’s best local dining. A particularly strong choice for solo and business travellers who want consistency and convenience. Book on Booking.com
- 🛏️ Budget — Wontonmeen Hostel A celebrated independent hostel with genuine personality and soul, Wontonmeen doubles as a living museum of Hong Kong culture, housing thousands of old local artefacts and a small community bookshop. The rooftop terrace — decorated with care and offering city views — is a favourite gathering spot for guests. Rooms and dorms are clean and air-conditioned, shared facilities are well-maintained, and the hostel’s authentically local ethos makes it a firm favourite with culturally curious backpackers. Frequently highlighted among Hong Kong’s best hostels on Booking.com. Book on Booking.com
More to Explore
