Iceland: Þingvellir National Park
☕ Jet-Lagged, Starving, and Absolutely Freezing — Welcome to Iceland
We’d had a terrible night’s sleep. Jet lag had well and truly got us, doing what jet lag does best — making you feel simultaneously exhausted and wired at two in the morning, staring at the ceiling like a confused owl. By the time a reasonable hour arrived, we were ravenous. Not just for food, but for the whole Icelandic experience we’d been looking forward to for months.
We didn’t have to wander far before finding a coffee shop, which was just as well in our zombified state. Coffee, hot chocolate, pastries — all of it very welcome, all of it very good, and all of it eye-wateringly expensive. Iceland, it turns out, has decided that its remote North Atlantic location is absolutely no reason to be reasonable about prices. Everything costs a small fortune. We quietly reminded ourselves that we’d budgeted for this and moved on.
🏛️ Þingvellir — Where Iceland Actually Began
With a rental car collected and a vague sense of purpose restored by caffeine, we set off. Just 40 kilometres east of Reykjavík, Þingvellir National Park — pronounced Thingvellir, since Icelandic does enjoy making English speakers feel inadequate — sits in a broad rift valley of quite extraordinary historical, geological, and cultural significance.
The name itself comes from Old Norse: Þingvǫllr, a compound of þing (“assembly”) and vǫllr (“field”), which translates simply as “assembly fields.” And fields they were — from 930 AD, this was the site of the Alþingi, Iceland’s supreme legislative and judicial assembly, and one of the oldest parliaments in the world. It ran as Iceland’s governing institution until 1271, when Norwegian rule brought the Commonwealth period to a close. For over three centuries, this was effectively the beating heart of Icelandic democracy.
At the centre of it all stood — or rather, perched — the Lögberg, or Law Rock, a natural stone platform from which the Lawspeaker would recite the laws of the land from memory each year. There were no printing presses, no statute books, just one man expected to remember the entire legal code. Makes you wonder how many important bits got quietly forgotten over the years.
Every summer during the Commonwealth period, thousands of Icelanders would make the journey to Þingvellir from across the island — no small undertaking on a volcanic rock in the North Atlantic. They came on horseback, on foot, and by boat, setting up temporary settlements of turf-and-stone shelters, roofed over for the two-week duration of the assembly. It was part parliament, part market, part social event — the one time of year when the scattered farming communities of Iceland all ended up in the same place.
🌍 Where Two Continents Are Literally Falling Apart
Þingvellir is also, rather dramatically, situated on the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates — which are slowly drifting apart at roughly 2.5 centimetres per year. You can actually see this. The landscape is criss-crossed with fault lines and fissures, the most impressive of which is the Almannagjá — a genuine canyon-like rift that cuts through the terrain and forms the western boundary of the park. Walking along it gives you the slightly vertiginous sensation of standing between two continents, which is either profound or slightly terrifying depending on your disposition. This tectonic restlessness also means the area experiences regular earthquakes, adding a certain geological frisson to proceedings.
🧥 Early July. Absolutely Perishing.
Despite all of this geological and historical magnificence, what we remember most vividly is being absolutely frozen. It was early July. A week or two before, we’d been roasting alive in Death Valley — quite literally one of the hottest places on Earth — and here we were, huddled in every layer we’d packed, wondering if we’d brought enough. We hadn’t. We never do.
Information About Þingvellir
🏔️ Þingvellir — Iceland’s Ancient Parliament Plains
Þingvellir, meaning “Assembly Plains”, is one of the most significant places in Iceland — a site where history, geology, and natural beauty converge in a single breathtaking landscape. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, it holds a unique dual importance: as the birthplace of Icelandic democracy and as one of the few places on Earth where the boundary between two tectonic plates is visible above ground.
🏛️ History and Significance
In 930 AD, the Alþing — one of the oldest parliaments in the world — was established at Þingvellir. Viking chieftains and their followers travelled from across Iceland each year to this natural amphitheatre to settle disputes, proclaim laws, and trade. The Lawspeaker would recite the laws aloud so all could hear. This parliament continued to convene at Þingvellir until 1798, a remarkable span of nearly nine centuries.
The site has witnessed some of the most defining moments in Icelandic history. It was here, around the year 1000, that Christianity was formally adopted as Iceland’s official religion. And on 17th June 1944, Iceland’s declaration of independence and the founding of the Republic of Iceland were proclaimed at Þingvellir, making it the symbolic heart of the nation.
🌋 Geology
Þingvellir sits astride the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. These two enormous plates are slowly pulling apart at a rate of approximately two centimetres per year, a process that has shaped the dramatic landscape of fissures, faults, and lava fields that visitors see today.
The most spectacular geological feature is Almannagjá Gorge, a vast rift fault running through the park along which visitors can walk. Equally remarkable is the Silfra Fissure, a crack filled with glacially filtered water of extraordinary clarity — visibility here can reach over 90 metres, making it one of the finest diving and snorkelling sites in the world. The Öxará River winds through the valley, and the nearby Þingvallavatn is Iceland’s largest natural lake, formed by the same tectonic forces.
🌿 Wildlife and Nature
The park supports a rich variety of birdlife, and the surrounding lava fields are carpeted with mosses, grasses, and birch woodland. Þingvallavatn Lake is home to several unique species of Arctic charr found nowhere else on Earth. The landscape shifts dramatically with the seasons — brilliantly green in summer, ablaze with gold and copper in autumn, and starkly beautiful under snow in winter.
📍 Location
Þingvellir National Park is situated in south-west Iceland, approximately 40 kilometres north-east of Reykjavík in the municipality of Bláskógabyggð. The park forms a key part of the famous Golden Circle route, which also takes in the Geysir geothermal area and Gullfoss waterfall.
Address: Þingvellir National Park, 806 Selfoss, Iceland
Coordinates: 64°15′N, 21°02′W
🚗 Getting There
By Car: The most convenient way to reach Þingvellir is by car. From Reykjavík, follow Route 1 (Ring Road) east and then turn onto Route 36, which leads directly into the park. The journey takes approximately 45 minutes under normal road conditions.
By Tour: Þingvellir is a standard stop on organised Golden Circle tours departing daily from Reykjavík. These tours are widely available and can be booked through most hotels and tour operators in the city.
By Bus: Public bus services operate seasonally between Reykjavík and Þingvellir. Services are more frequent during summer months. Check current timetables locally before travel, as schedules vary.
There are five designated car parks within the park. A daily parking service fee of 1,000 ISK per vehicle applies at the main car parks. Payment can be made at on-site machines or in advance online. One payment is valid across all park car parks for the duration of the day.
🌐 Website
📞 Contact
Telephone: +354 488 1800 (dial 2 for the park office)
Email: thingvellir@thingvellir.is Parking and billing enquiries: reikningar@thingvellir.is
💰 Entry Fees
Entry to Þingvellir National Park is free of charge. There are no admission fees for walking the trails, visiting historical sites, or accessing the natural attractions within the park.
Parking: A daily service fee of 1,000 ISK per vehicle applies at the main car parks near popular attractions. Payment machines are located at the Visitor Centre, the restroom building adjacent to the Visitor Centre, below Öxarárfoss (P2), and at Valhöll (P5).
Heart of Iceland Exhibition (Visitor Centre): A small fee applies for the interactive exhibition inside the Visitor Centre. Payment can be made on site or in advance online via the park’s website.
🕘 Opening Times
The national park itself is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
Hakið Visitor Centre: Summer (April to October): 09:00–18:00 daily Winter (November to March): 09:00–17:00 daily
Leirar Service Centre (near the campgrounds): Summer (June to August): 09:00–20:00 daily Winter (September to May): 09:00–18:00 daily
Information Desk at Leirar: Winter (September to May): 09:00–16:00 daily
Note: Opening hours are subject to change. It is advisable to check the official website before visiting, particularly outside the summer season.
Planning Your Visit to Iceland
📍 Where Is Iceland?
Iceland is an island nation sitting in the North Atlantic Ocean, straddling the Mid-Atlantic Ridge where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates diverge. Positioned just south of the Arctic Circle, it lies roughly midway between mainland Europe and the eastern coast of Greenland. Despite its name, Iceland is surprisingly green and habitable — at least along its coastal edges. The interior Highland, a vast expanse of lava fields, glaciers, and volcanic desert covering around 40% of the island, remains largely uninhabited.
The capital, Reykjavík, sits on the south-western coast and is home to roughly two-thirds of the country’s 397,000 people. It is the northernmost capital city of any sovereign state in the world. Iceland divides broadly into seven regions: Reykjavík and the Capital Area, the Reykjanes Peninsula, West Iceland, the Westfjords, North Iceland, East Iceland, and South Iceland — each with its own distinct character, landscape, and atmosphere.
✈️ Getting There
The main gateway is Keflavík International Airport (KEF), located around 49 kilometres south-west of Reykjavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Most international flights arrive here, with direct services operating from across Europe and North America. The airport handles the vast majority of international traffic, so virtually all visitors pass through it.
A small domestic airport exists within Reykjavík city itself — Reykjavík Domestic Airport — but this serves only internal Icelandic routes, so it is important not to confuse the two when booking.
Most visitors from European countries can enter Iceland without a visa for stays of up to 90 days within any 180-day period. Iceland is part of the Schengen Area, so the same entry rules broadly apply as for other Schengen member states. Travellers should ensure their passport is valid for at least three months beyond their intended departure date. Those arriving from Schengen-exempt countries should check whether the European ETIAS travel authorisation applies to their nationality, as this system is being progressively introduced.
🚗 Getting Around
There are no railways in Iceland. Getting around the country relies on a combination of car hire, buses, domestic flights, and — in some areas — ferries.
By Car
Hiring a car is by far the most popular and practical way to explore Iceland. It offers flexibility that public transport simply cannot match, particularly when venturing beyond the capital. Most of the major international car hire companies operate desks in the arrivals hall at Keflavík Airport, and booking in advance is strongly recommended, especially from June to September when demand is at its highest.
The famous Ring Road — Highway 1, known in Icelandic as Hringvegurinn — runs the full circumference of the island (with the exception of some Westfjords sections) and connects most of the major towns, natural attractions, and communities along the coast.
For exploring the Highlands, Highland roads (known as F-roads, prefixed with an “F” before the road number, such as F208) are the only legal off-road option. These are rough, unpaved, often deeply rutted mountain tracks that are only open during summer — typically from late June to early September, depending on conditions. By law, only 4WD vehicles are permitted on F-roads. Attempting to drive a standard two-wheel-drive car on them is illegal and will invalidate your hire car insurance. River crossings on some F-roads add an additional layer of complexity, and driving them in convoy with at least one other vehicle is strongly advised.
Driving Rules to Know
Iceland drives on the right. Headlights must be switched on at all times, regardless of the weather or time of day. Speed limits are 50 km/h in built-up areas, 80 km/h on gravel roads, and 90 km/h on surfaced rural roads. Speed cameras — both fixed and mobile — operate throughout the country and fines for speeding are substantial. From January 2026, Iceland introduced a kilometre-based road usage fee for all vehicle types; if you are hiring a car, this will typically be included in the rental pricing.
Livestock — particularly sheep — roam freely in the Highlands and across open countryside during the summer months and can appear on roads without warning. Exercise particular care on roads with poor visibility and watch for “blindhæð” (blind hill) warning signs.
Off-Road Driving
It is absolutely illegal to drive off marked roads and tracks in Iceland under any circumstances. The country’s moss, lava fields, and fragile ecosystems take centuries to recover from vehicle damage. Fines for off-road driving are severe — in documented cases they have exceeded the equivalent of £10,000 — and in extreme cases criminal charges may follow.
By Bus
A bus network operates between major destinations, though services outside of July and August are significantly reduced and can be non-existent in more remote areas. Reykjavík has a useful city bus network for getting around the capital. For getting between the city and Keflavík Airport, shuttle bus services such as Flybus offer a far more economical alternative to taxis, which can be extremely expensive for longer journeys.
By Domestic Flight
For those short on time or wishing to reach remote northern or eastern areas efficiently, domestic flights link Reykjavík Domestic Airport with destinations including Akureyri, Ísafjörður, and Egilsstaðir. In winter, flights can sometimes be the only viable connection between certain parts of the country, though poor weather can also disrupt schedules.
Best time to Iceland
Iceland is a destination for all seasons, but the experience varies enormously depending on when you go. From the ethereal glow of the midnight sun in summer to the dancing curtains of the northern lights in winter, each season offers something entirely different. Understanding the trade-offs between weather, daylight, crowds, and cost will help you choose the visit that suits you best.
🌸 Spring — March to May
Spring arrives slowly in Iceland. March remains decidedly wintry, with snow still blanketing the highlands and temperatures hovering around freezing, but by April the landscape begins to stir. Waterfalls swell to dramatic proportions as snowmelt rushes off the mountains, and the first puffins return to their clifftop colonies by mid-April — a magical sight along the Westfjords and on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. May brings increasingly long days, with daylight stretching to around 17–20 hours by month’s end, and the roads gradually reopen as snow recedes.
Spring is a transitional season with unpredictable weather: sunshine, rain, sleet, and wind can arrive in quick succession within a single afternoon. The highland roads (F-roads) remain closed until late May or June depending on conditions, so access to the interior is limited. However, spring brings notably quieter attractions and lower prices than summer, making it an excellent choice for those willing to be flexible.
What to pack: Waterproof and windproof outer layer, thermal base layers, fleece mid-layer, insulated jacket, waterproof hiking boots, woollen hat and gloves, buff or neck gaiter, quick-dry trousers, sunglasses (UV), and a small daypack. Layers are essential as conditions can change rapidly.
☀️ Summer — June to August
Summer is Iceland’s most popular season, and for good reason. The midnight sun transforms the country into a place of dreamlike, perpetual golden light. In June, the sun barely dips below the horizon at all in the north of the country, and even in Reykjavík it remains bright enough to read outside at midnight. This extraordinary daylight allows for incredibly long days of exploration — hiking, whale watching, kayaking, river rafting, and road-tripping along the Ring Road without the pressure of fading light.
Temperatures are mild rather than warm, typically reaching 10–15°C, with occasional warmer spells. The highland F-roads open, granting access to the interior wilderness of Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk, which are simply inaccessible at other times of year. Festivals, outdoor concerts, and cultural events fill the calendar, and the country buzzes with energy. The downside is that summer is unambiguously peak season: popular sites such as the Blue Lagoon, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, Geysir, and Skógafoss are considerably busier, accommodation prices peak, and advance booking is essential.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket and trousers, multiple mid-layers (fleece or light down), t-shirts and long-sleeved tops, sturdy waterproof walking boots, sunglasses, sun cream (SPF 30+), a sleep mask (the midnight sun makes sleeping tricky), light gloves for highland or glacier visits, and a compact daypack. Do not rely on warm temperatures alone — the wind makes it feel considerably cooler.
🍂 Autumn — September to November
Autumn is arguably Iceland’s most underrated season. September is particularly special: the summer crowds have largely departed, yet the weather remains relatively settled and the days still hold several hours of useful daylight. The highlands blaze with russet, copper, and amber as the vegetation turns, and the northern lights make their return to dark enough skies from mid-August onwards, intensifying as the weeks pass. By late September, the aurora borealis is regularly visible on clear nights.
October brings increasingly stormy weather and rapidly shortening days, but also some of the most dramatic skyscapes and crashing surf Iceland produces. Storm-watching from the comfort of a well-placed guesthouse on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula or the south coast is a genuine experience in itself. November is cold and darker still, with road conditions deteriorating, but prices drop considerably and the northern lights can be spectacular.
What to pack: Warm waterproof jacket, insulated mid-layer, thermal base layers, waterproof trousers, sturdy waterproof boots with grip (ice is possible by November), woollen hat, scarf, and gloves, warm socks, a headtorch for dark evenings, and a camera with a tripod for aurora photography.
❄️ Winter — December to February
Winter in Iceland is an immersive, otherworldly experience, but it demands realistic expectations. Daylight is extremely limited — as few as four hours in late December — and temperatures regularly drop well below freezing, particularly in the north and inland. Roads can be icy or temporarily closed, and coastal storms can be fierce. That said, winter offers rewards that no other season can match.
The northern lights are the headline attraction, and the long, dark nights provide the ideal conditions for viewing them. Iceland is also home to extraordinary ice cave formations inside glaciers such as Vatnajökull, which are only safely accessible in winter when the ice is stable — a truly unforgettable underground spectacle. The Christmas period in Reykjavík is charming, with the city warmly lit and the geothermal swimming pools wonderfully inviting against the cold air. Prices are generally at their lowest between January and February, and the crowds are at their thinnest outside the Christmas and New Year period.
What to pack: Heavy insulated jacket (down or synthetic), thermal base layers (top and bottom), fleece mid-layer, waterproof windproof outer shell, thermal hat covering the ears, thick woollen gloves or mittens, a neck gaiter or balaclava, thermal socks, insulated and waterproof boots with good grip or microspikes for icy paths, hand warmers, a headtorch, and a tripod for northern lights photography. Dress in proper layers — Icelandic winter cold is not to be underestimated.
🏆 Overall Best Time to Visit
If you are visiting Iceland for the first time and want the most accessible, varied, and reliably enjoyable experience, late June to early August is the standout choice. The midnight sun, open roads, mild temperatures, and the full range of activities available make summer the easiest season in which to explore the country comprehensively. However, if the northern lights are your primary goal, September or October offers the best balance: dark enough skies for aurora viewing, fewer crowds than summer, and lingering autumn beauty. Budget-conscious travellers and those seeking solitude will find January to February extraordinarily rewarding, provided they are properly equipped and content with shorter days. Whenever you go, Iceland will astonish you — the question is simply which version of it you wish to encounter.
Where to stay
1. Black Pearl luxury apartments
Located near the Old Harbour in central Reykjavik, Black Pearl Luxury Apartments offers spacious serviced apartments designed for travellers who want more flexibility than a standard hotel stay. The property combines modern interiors with practical features including fully equipped kitchens, large living areas and private balconies. Suites are finished with contemporary furnishings, heated marble floors and high-spec appliances, making them suitable for both short breaks and longer stays. Guests are within walking distance of Reykjavik’s main attractions, restaurants and waterfront bars, while the apartment-style layout provides a quieter and more private base in the city centre. The overall focus is on comfort, convenience and understated luxury rather than traditional hotel formality.
2. Skuggi Hotel Reykjavík
Located in a quieter part of central Reykjavík, Skuggi Hotel Reykjavík is a practical base for exploring the city on foot. The hotel takes its design cues from the work of Icelandic photographer Ragnar Axelsson, with dark tones and simple interiors that reflect the surrounding landscape without overdoing the theme. Rooms are compact but comfortable, with reliable Wi-Fi, good soundproofing and useful touches such as blackout curtains and heated bathroom floors. Breakfast is included and covers the essentials, making it easy to start the day before heading out to nearby cafés, museums and the waterfront. The location also works well for travellers planning day trips, with tour pick-up points and main roads close by.
3. KEX
Set in a former biscuit factory near the waterfront, KEX Hostel has become one of the better-known places to stay in Reykjavík for travellers who want something more social than a standard hotel. The building keeps much of its industrial character, with exposed pipes, worn timber floors and a busy communal bar that draws both visitors and locals. Rooms range from shared dorms to private doubles, making it accessible for different budgets. Its location is practical rather than scenic, but most central sights, cafés and bars are within walking distance. KEX works best for people who value atmosphere and convenience over luxury, and it manages to feel lively without becoming chaotic.
