Potosí, once one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to its vast silver mines, is today a high-altitude Bolivian city where colonial architecture, mining heritage, and everyday local life come together in a striking yet often challenging environment.
Bolivia: La Paz – “The City That Touches the Clouds”
Contents
1. About La Paz
2. Things to do
– Visit La Paz’s colourful General Cemetery
– Ride the Mi Teleférico
– Check out the Witches Street of El Alto
– Visit Plaza Murillo and the Historic Centre
– Discover the Valle de las Ánimas
– Take a Day Trip to Tiwanaku
– Stroll Along Calle Jaén
– Experience El Alto’s Famous Market
– Admire the San Francisco Church and Plaza
– Touring the Cholets of El Alto
– Experience Cholita Wrestling
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. Best time to visit
6. Where to stay
About La Paz
La Paz, Bolivia, is a city that clings dramatically to the sides of a steep valley, with houses and buildings spilling down the mountainsides like a giant patchwork quilt. At over 3,600 metres above sea level, it is the highest capital city in the world, and visitors often find themselves short of breath both from the altitude and from the astonishing views. The snow-capped peak of Illimani towers in the distance, a constant and majestic backdrop to the daily bustle of this extraordinary place.
The city itself is a fascinating mix of the old and the new, where traditional markets and indigenous culture sit comfortably alongside modern cafés, restaurants, and the impressive cable car system known as Mi Teleférico. Wandering through the streets, you might stumble across the famous Witches’ Market, where curious remedies and charms are sold, or you might find yourself in San Francisco Square, surrounded by baroque architecture and lively street performers. Every corner reveals another layer of La Paz’s rich identity.
What makes La Paz especially memorable is its atmosphere. It has an energy that feels both chaotic and vibrant, a city that never quite sits still. The thin mountain air carries the sound of vendors calling, traffic blaring, and the chatter of locals and tourists alike. While it can be overwhelming at first, there’s a warmth and authenticity to the city that leaves a lasting impression. For many travellers, La Paz is not just a stopover on the way to Lake Titicaca or the salt flats—it is a destination in its own right, one that lingers long after you have left its dizzying heights.
Things to do
Visit La Paz’s colourful General Cemetary
Visiting the General Cemetery in La Paz is an unexpectedly moving experience, as it offers not only a glimpse into local traditions of remembrance but also a striking reflection of Bolivian society. Unlike the hushed solemnity of many European graveyards, this cemetery is alive with colour, sound and daily life. Families frequently gather here to clean and decorate the tombs of loved ones, often leaving flowers, photographs, and small offerings of food or drink, while street vendors outside the gates sell snacks, candles and wreaths. The above-ground niches, stacked high in neat rows, create a striking architectural impression, and each one is carefully personalised, turning the cemetery into a patchwork of stories and memories. Walking along its pathways, one cannot help but notice murals and painted tributes, giving the place an almost gallery-like atmosphere. It is also a site that reveals a great deal about La Paz’s cultural identity, where Catholic rituals intertwine with indigenous beliefs, and where the Day of the Dead is celebrated with joy as much as reverence. The General Cemetery is not just a resting place for the departed, but a communal space where the living continue their relationship with them, making it a fascinating stop for visitors seeking a deeper understanding of Bolivian traditions.
Ride the Mi Teleférico 🚡
La Paz is famous for its dramatic geography, and the best way to appreciate it is from the sky. The Mi Teleférico cable car system, the largest urban cable car network in the world, is not only a form of public transport but also a must-do attraction. Stretching across the city and connecting La Paz with El Alto, it offers breathtaking bird’s-eye views of jagged mountains, colourful neighbourhoods clinging to steep hillsides, and the bustling streets far below. Each line has its own unique perspective: the Red Line rises steeply into El Alto, giving you sweeping views of the Cordillera Real, while the Yellow and Green Lines glide over valleys and modern districts. A ride costs very little, yet the experience is priceless, combining a sense of adventure with practical sightseeing. Try going at different times of day—sunrise for soft golden light, afternoon for crisp mountain clarity, and evening when the city glitters beneath a blanket of stars.
Check out the Witches Street of El Alto 🧙♀️
El Alto’s witches’ street, although less famous than the bustling Mercado de las Brujas in central La Paz, has a distinctly raw and authentic character that makes it a fascinating place to explore. Whereas the central La Paz market has gradually adapted itself for the benefit of tourists, with neatly arranged stalls selling colourful textiles, souvenirs, herbal remedies, and the occasional llama foetus carefully displayed for curious foreign eyes, El Alto’s version retains a more local, almost clandestine atmosphere, where the trade is primarily for the community itself. Here, the stalls are not merely a spectacle but a vital part of daily life, providing indigenous Aymara families with everything from dried herbs and medicinal plants to offerings for Pachamama and protective talismans. The witches in El Alto, often older women steeped in generations of knowledge, conduct their rituals and consultations with a quiet seriousness that feels less like a performance and more like an unbroken tradition. In contrast, La Paz’s witches’ market—though still intriguing and culturally rich—can feel somewhat theatrical, designed to intrigue outsiders and blend spirituality with commerce. Wandering through El Alto’s streets, especially during the weekly markets that spill chaotically across the high plateau, you sense a more grounded connection to Andean spirituality and everyday survival, a world less polished and more deeply tied to the rhythms of local life, making the comparison between the two not just one of location, but of intent and authenticity.
Visit Plaza Murillo and the Historic Centre 🏛️
Plaza Murillo is the political and historical heart of La Paz, a square where centuries of history converge. Surrounded by important buildings such as the Presidential Palace, the National Congress, and the Metropolitan Cathedral, it’s a perfect place to soak in the city’s character. The square itself is lively, filled with pigeons, local families, and street vendors. The surrounding colonial streets offer fine examples of Spanish architecture, with ornate balconies and pastel façades. Beyond the grandeur, Plaza Murillo has also been the stage for protests, celebrations, and pivotal moments in Bolivian history. Spending time here gives you a sense of the city’s role not just as a cultural capital but as the beating political heart of the nation.
Discover the Valle de las Ánimas 🌄
The Valle de las Ánimas, or Valley of the Souls, just outside La Paz, is one of Bolivia’s most striking natural wonders, a surreal landscape where geology and folklore meet in spectacular fashion. Stretching across a vast area, the valley is carved into dramatic spires and jagged pinnacles of eroded clay and sandstone, creating a labyrinth of towering formations that resemble organ pipes, cathedral ruins, or an army of silent sentinels. Locals say the valley takes its name from the belief that the wind whistling through the rock spires echoes with the cries of lost souls, giving the place an eerie, almost otherworldly atmosphere. Unlike more manicured attractions, the Valle de las Ánimas has a raw, untamed quality—its trails are not heavily signposted, which adds to the sense of adventure as you wander through narrow pathways and climb ridges for breathtaking panoramic views over the valley, the altiplano, and the distant snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Real. It’s a favourite spot for hikers, mountain bikers, and photographers who are drawn by the valley’s haunting beauty and its changing colours as the sun shifts across the sky, casting long shadows that accentuate the jagged terrain. Being less commercialised than the nearby Valle de la Luna, the Valle de las Ánimas offers a far more tranquil and immersive experience, where you can easily feel the weight of Andean legends and the power of Bolivia’s natural landscape all around you.
Take a Day Trip to Tiwanaku 🏺
About 80km La Paz lies Tiwanaku, one of South America’s most important archaeological sites. Once the capital of a powerful pre-Columbian empire, it flourished long before the rise of the Incas. The ruins here, including the Akapana Pyramid, the Kalasasaya Temple, and the monumental Gate of the Sun, give fascinating insight into the advanced engineering and spiritual life of the Tiwanaku people. Wandering among the ancient stones, you’ll feel a sense of connection with a civilisation that shaped the Andes for centuries. The on-site museum helps put everything into context, displaying intricate carvings, pottery, and statues. For history enthusiasts, Tiwanaku is an essential excursion that reveals Bolivia’s deep cultural roots.
Stroll Along Calle Jaén 🎨
Calle Jaén is one of the best-preserved colonial streets in La Paz, and walking down it feels like travelling back in time. Lined with brightly painted houses featuring ornate balconies and cobblestone paving, it has a charming, intimate atmosphere. The street is also home to several small museums, including the Museo de Metales Preciosos (Precious Metals Museum) and the Museo del Litoral, which together offer a fascinating glimpse into Bolivian history and culture. Local artists often display their work here, adding a splash of contemporary creativity to the old-world charm. In the evenings, the street comes alive with bohemian cafés and small bars, making it a delightful spot for both daytime exploration and a laid-back evening.
Experience El Alto’s Famous Market 🛍️
If you really want to experience the energy of La Paz, head up to El Alto on a Thursday or Sunday for one of the largest open-air markets in Latin America. Stretching as far as the eye can see, this sprawling market sells everything imaginable: clothes, electronics, furniture, tools, food, and even car parts. It’s a treasure trove for bargain hunters, but it’s also an authentic slice of Bolivian life. Amid the chaos, you’ll also find traditional healers offering herbal remedies and spiritual consultations. The sheer scale and vibrancy of the market can be overwhelming, but it’s also exhilarating. And getting there by cable car adds to the adventure, with sweeping views as you rise from La Paz to El Alto’s high plateau.
Admire the San Francisco Church and Plaza ⛪
The Basilica of San Francisco is one of La Paz’s most beautiful landmarks, blending Spanish Baroque and indigenous influences into a unique style known as mestizo-Baroque. Its intricately carved stone façade is a masterpiece, featuring flora, fauna, and Andean motifs alongside traditional Christian symbols. Inside, the church is equally impressive, with richly decorated chapels and gilded altars. The adjacent square, Plaza San Francisco, is a lively gathering point for locals and visitors alike. It often hosts cultural events, concerts, and demonstrations, reflecting the city’s dynamic spirit. Spending time here offers both architectural beauty and a glimpse into daily life in La Paz.
🏠 Touring the Cholets of El Alto
Taking a tour of the cholets in El Alto is like stepping into a surreal fusion of traditional Aymara symbolism and bold modern architecture, a visual feast that is as dazzling as it is thought-provoking. These extravagant, multi-coloured mansions, designed largely by self-taught architect Freddy Mamani, rise above the otherwise functional urban landscape like giant jewels, their facades painted in vibrant reds, blues, greens and yellows that reflect both the highland palette of woven textiles and the pride of a flourishing indigenous middle class. A tour usually involves moving through the bustling streets of El Alto, where the air is thin but the atmosphere electric, pausing outside these flamboyant buildings to learn about the cultural motifs woven into their design—geometric patterns that echo Tiwanaku iconography, sweeping glass windows shaped like chakana crosses, and ornate interiors that could rival a Las Vegas ballroom. Many cholets serve as event halls, and stepping inside one during a guided visit often means being greeted by chandeliers, mirrored walls, spiral staircases and vast dancefloors where local weddings and parties take place, creating a lively contrast to the austere concrete blocks surrounding them. Unlike anything else in Bolivia—or indeed in the world—the cholets embody a sense of aspiration, creativity and cultural resilience, making a tour not just about architecture but about witnessing the story of El Alto’s people carved into brick, glass and paint.
Experience Cholita Wrestling 🎭
One of the most unique cultural experiences in La Paz is watching a Cholita Wrestling show. Dressed in their traditional pollera skirts, braided hair, and bowler hats, the Cholitas perform theatrical wrestling matches that are as much about entertainment as sport. The atmosphere is electric, with cheering crowds, dramatic acrobatics, and plenty of humour woven into the bouts. Beyond the spectacle, the event also carries a deeper message—what began as parody has evolved into a symbol of empowerment for indigenous women in Bolivia. It’s quirky, fun, and unlike anything you’ll find elsewhere, making it a must-do for those seeking something truly different.
Getting around La Paz
🚡 Cable Cars (Mi Teleférico)
One of the most unique and scenic ways to get around La Paz is by using the Mi Teleférico cable car network. Stretching across the city and linking to neighbouring El Alto, these brightly coloured gondolas offer incredible views of the mountains, valleys, and the bustling city below. They are efficient, inexpensive, and a far less stressful alternative to negotiating the crowded streets by car. Each line has its own colour, and connections between them are easy to follow.
🚌 Minibuses and Shared Taxis
For a truly local experience, visitors can hop on the ubiquitous minibuses and colectivos (shared taxis). They criss-cross the city and beyond, each following set routes marked on their windshields. Fares are very cheap, though they can be confusing for newcomers and crowded at peak hours. It’s best to ask locals or your accommodation for advice on which routes to take.
🚕 Regular Taxis
Taxis are plentiful in La Paz, but it is wise to choose radio taxis (booked by phone or through your hotel) rather than hailing one off the street, as they are safer and more reliable. They are more expensive than minibuses but still affordable compared to European prices. Always agree the fare before setting off, as most taxis don’t use metres.
🚶 Walking
While La Paz is a fascinating city to explore on foot, the steep hills and high altitude can make walking challenging. Short strolls around the central areas, such as Plaza Murillo or the Witches’ Market, are manageable and rewarding. Just remember to take it slowly, stay hydrated, and allow time to catch your breath.
🚗 Private Tours and Transfers
For those who prefer convenience and comfort, booking private transfers or tours can be an excellent option. Many operators provide hotel pick-ups and guided transport, especially useful for excursions outside the city such as Valle de la Luna or Tiwanaku. Though pricier than public transport, this option removes the stress of navigating and allows more time to enjoy the sights.
Eating out for vegans in La Paz
🌿 Ali Pacha – City Centre
Perhaps the most celebrated vegan restaurant in La Paz, Ali Pacha is a fine-dining spot that reimagines traditional Bolivian ingredients with a modern, plant-based twist. Expect beautifully presented tasting menus, with dishes showcasing Andean roots, grains, and herbs in surprising ways. A real treat for foodies.
📍 Address: Calle Colón 1306, La Paz
🌐 Website: alipacha.com
📸 Instagram: @ali_pacha
🍜 Red Monkey – Sopocachi
This lively café in the artsy Sopocachi neighbourhood serves up a mix of international vegan dishes alongside excellent coffee. Their veggie burgers, falafel wraps, and smoothie bowls are popular choices, and the casual setting makes it a great place to hang out.
📍 Address: Rosendo Gutiérrez 832, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @redmonkeylapaz
🛒 Sana Sana – Health Shop & Deli
Sana Sana doubles as a health food shop and vegan-friendly café. Stock up on plant-based essentials like nut butters, kombucha, and cruelty-free snacks, or grab a wholesome meal such as quinoa bowls, soups, and salads. Ideal for those staying longer in the city.
📍 Address: Calle Belisario Salinas 360, Sopocachi, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @sanasanalapaz
🍽️ Namas Te – Sopocachi
A cosy vegetarian café with plenty of vegan options, Namas Te is a favourite for its relaxed vibe and nourishing food. Think lentil stews, curry bowls, and fresh juices. It’s also a popular spot for yoga enthusiasts and creatives in the area.
📍 Address: Av. 6 de Agosto 2535, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @namaste_lapaz
🧁 Café Vida – San Miguel
Tucked away in the upmarket San Miguel district, Café Vida is known for its excellent vegan cakes and healthy brunches. Expect treats like banana bread, raw chocolate desserts, and quality coffee with almond or soy milk. A perfect stop for a sweet indulgence.
📍 Address: Calle Montenegro 984, San Miguel, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @cafevidabolivia
🥙 Sabor Vegan – Fast & Fresh
If you’re after quick, tasty vegan bites, Sabor Vegan is a small but mighty fast food option. They offer plant-based burgers, wraps, and bowls with bold seasoning and hearty portions. Great for a casual meal on the go.
📍 Address: Calle Murillo 972, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @saborvegan
🌱 Jugospace – Juices & Smoothies
A cheerful juice bar serving cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and light vegan snacks. Perfect for a refreshing break during sightseeing or to fuel up before tackling the steep streets of La Paz.
📍 Address: Calle Linares 906, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @jugospace
The best time to visit La Paz
🌸 Spring (September–November) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and sunny (10–20°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Clear skies, colourful markets, and excellent conditions for exploring the city and nearby valleys.
Why Go: Spring in La Paz is crisp, bright, and full of life. It’s a wonderful season for strolling through plazas, riding the cable cars for sweeping mountain views, and heading out to Lake Titicaca or the Valle de la Luna without extremes of heat or rain.
🌿 Ideal for walkers, photographers, and those who enjoy lively street life.
☀️ Summer (December–February)
Weather: Rainy and humid (8–18°C)
Crowds: Lower – some visitors avoid the rains.
Highlights: Carnival celebrations, lush green landscapes, and dramatic cloudscapes rolling across the Andes.
Caution: Afternoon downpours can be heavy, with slippery streets and occasional travel disruptions.
🧴 Bring a waterproof jacket and good shoes.
☔ Plan indoor visits – museums, markets, and cafés – for rainy spells.
🍂 Autumn (March–May) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cool and dry (7–18°C)
Crowds: Moderate but thinning towards May.
Highlights: Crystal-clear skies with snow-dusted peaks, perfect for photography. The city feels calm after the rains, and day trips to Tiwanaku or hiking in the Yungas are especially rewarding.
📷 Great for photographers and culture seekers.
🍲 Combine your visit with hearty Bolivian food – autumn evenings suit steaming bowls of sopa de maní.
❄️ Winter (June–August)
Weather: Cold and dry (0–15°C, nights often below freezing)
Crowds: High – peak tourist season.
Highlights: Brilliantly blue skies, excellent trekking conditions, and bustling festivals such as Gran Poder in June.
⚠️ Nights can be very cold – bring layers.
🔭 The dry air makes for superb stargazing.
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Colourful, lively, perfect for walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Wet 🌧️ | Light | Festive, green, dramatic | ⚠️ Variable |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light–Moderate | Crisp, clear, cultural | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Cold ❄️ | Busy | Bright, festive, trekking | 🎯 Adventurous |
Where to stay in La Paz
Sopocachi – Trendy and Cultural
Sopocachi is one of the most popular neighbourhoods for visitors who want a mix of modern comforts and local flair. It has a bohemian vibe, with leafy squares, independent cafés, lively bars, and plenty of restaurants serving both Bolivian and international cuisine. The area is also well known for its art galleries and cultural spaces, making it a good choice for travellers who like to be close to the creative heartbeat of the city. Many boutique hotels and guesthouses are tucked away in its quiet streets, while the Teleférico (cable car) offers quick and scenic access to other parts of La Paz.
San Pedro – Central and Convenient
Located near the city centre, San Pedro is a bustling area that puts you within walking distance of many of La Paz’s main attractions, including the famous Witches’ Market, Plaza Murillo, and Calle Jaén. It’s a lively neighbourhood, with plenty of budget-friendly accommodation options, local markets, and street food stalls. While it can feel busy and a little chaotic at times, it’s ideal for travellers who want to be at the heart of the action and don’t mind a bit of noise.
Downtown La Paz – For First-Time Visitors
If it’s your first time in La Paz, staying downtown might be the easiest option. Here you’ll find a wide range of hotels, from budget hostels to mid-range and more comfortable stays, all close to transport links and tour operators. Being central means it’s easy to join day trips to the Valley of the Moon, Tiwanaku, or Lake Titicaca. The area can feel crowded and commercial, but its convenience and accessibility make it a safe bet for newcomers.
Zona Sur – Comfortable and Upmarket
For those seeking more comfort, Zona Sur is an attractive alternative. Situated at a lower altitude than the city centre, it has a slightly milder climate and is considered the more affluent side of La Paz. Here you’ll find luxury hotels, modern apartments, shopping centres, and international restaurants. It’s not as central as Sopocachi or downtown, but it’s quieter and offers a more relaxed base for travellers who prefer a calmer environment. Taxis and cable cars make it easy to get back into the city centre when needed.
Miraflores – Balanced and Family-Friendly
Miraflores is a solid choice for travellers who want a balance between convenience and calm. It’s home to several parks, the Hernando Siles Stadium, and some good mid-range hotels. The neighbourhood is less touristy than downtown or Sopocachi, which means it feels more authentic and residential, yet still has enough restaurants and shops to keep you comfortable. It’s a good area for families or anyone who prefers a quieter base while still being within easy reach of the main sights.
1. Mid Range: Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique
I recently stayed at the Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique in La Paz and was thoroughly impressed by the experience. The hotel has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with beautifully designed interiors that feel both stylish and comfortable. The staff were absolutely lovely, always friendly and attentive, which made the stay all the more enjoyable. One of the highlights is the location, which couldn’t be better – right next to the Teleférico, making it easy to get around the city, and just by Plaza España, which adds a pleasant local charm. It’s a perfect base for exploring La Paz, offering both convenience and comfort in equal measure.
2. Luxury – Atix Hotel
The Atix Hotel in La Paz is a striking example of contemporary Bolivian design, blending modern luxury with a strong sense of cultural identity. Situated in the upscale neighbourhood of Calacoto, it stands out not only for its sleek glass façade but also for its celebration of Bolivian heritage, with art and design elements inspired by the country’s landscapes and traditions. Inside, the hotel showcases works by renowned local artists, giving each space a distinctly Bolivian character while maintaining an international standard of comfort. Rooms are stylishly appointed, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and city, and the rooftop pool and bar provide one of the best vantage points in La Paz to enjoy the dramatic scenery. With its thoughtful balance of sophistication and authenticity, the Atix Hotel offers visitors a refined yet deeply rooted experience of Bolivia’s capital.
3. Budget – The Rooftop Bolivia
The Rooftop Bolivia in La Paz is a lively and stylish spot that has become a favourite with both travellers and locals thanks to its unbeatable views of the city and surrounding mountains. Perched high above the bustling streets, it offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere where you can enjoy panoramic vistas of the sprawling cityscape, framed by the dramatic peaks of the Andes. The space is modern and welcoming, with comfortable seating areas perfect for socialising, unwinding with a drink, or simply soaking up the energy of La Paz from above. Known for its friendly vibe, upbeat music, and a mix of international visitors, The Rooftop has established itself as more than just a bar – it’s a social hub where people come together to share travel stories, meet new friends, and take in one of the most memorable views in the city.
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