The Bay of Islands Vintage Railway offers a nostalgic and scenic heritage train ride through Kawakawa, blending local history, community spirit, and classic Kiwi charm.
New Zealand: Northland – Bay of Islands
The Bay of Islands is a place that made sense very quickly. It sits along the northern coast of New Zealand and was shaped by water more than anything else. The shoreline folds in on itself, forming sheltered bays and inlets, with islands scattered offshore in every direction. For a long time, Māori communities had lived around these waters, using the sea for fishing, travel, and daily life. The land was fertile, the waters were calm, and the bay offered protection from rougher conditions further out.
When Europeans arrived, they were drawn to the same features. The bay became one of the first areas where sustained contact took place, and much of New Zealand’s early colonial history happened here. Traders, missionaries, and settlers all passed through or stayed, leaving behind a complicated past that still felt close to the surface. Even so, the bay does not feel heavy with history. It felt settled and lived in, with everyday life carrying on alongside the reminders of what had gone before.
What stood out most was how relaxed everything felt. Boats moved steadily across the water, towns stayed small, and nothing seemed rushed. Even when places were busy, there was space to breathe. Walking along the coast or looking out across the bay, it was easy to feel connected to the wider landscape. It was the sort of place where slowing down felt natural rather than forced.
🚶♂️ Day One – Opua and the Coastal Track to Paihia
Opua was where we started our walk, and it felt very much like a working harbour rather than a resort town. The marina dominated the place, filled with yachts that had arrived from far beyond New Zealand. For many sailors, Opua marks the end of a long ocean crossing, and there was a quiet sense of relief and routine about the way people moved around the docks. The settlement itself is small, spread out, and largely residential.
Historically, Opua had grown because of its sheltered position and deep-water access. It had once handled timber and coal, and later became an important link for rail and shipping connections further inland. Although those industries had faded, the maritime feel remains strong. Even walking through the streets, there was a sense that everything revolved around tides, weather, and boats.
🥾 The Coastal Walk
The coastal track leaving Opua was well constructed and clearly maintained, which made the walking easy despite the changing terrain. It climbs gently along cliffs before dropping into quieter bays, passing through patches of native bush and open grassland. From the first viewpoint, the bay opened out in front of us, with water stretching away towards distant headlands and islands. Across the channel, Russell sat quietly, looking almost too neat for a town with such a lively past.
As the path continued, it offered constant variety. Some sections were shaded and enclosed, while others were fully exposed, with nothing but sky and sea ahead. The track eventually dipped down towards sea level and led us into an area of mangroves. I had not expected to see them here, but they thrived in the shallow, sheltered water. Their roots stood exposed in the mud as the tide retreated, creating an oddly sculptural landscape. A long boardwalk carried us across, keeping our feet dry and giving us time to take it all in.
Further on, the walk became easier still as the path reached a narrow beach. With the tide still low enough, we chose to continue along the sand rather than detour inland. It was a slightly uncertain decision, as the water was already beginning to creep back in, but it added a sense of mild adventure. The final stretch involved clambering around rocks and skirting fallen trees, but we reached Paihia just before the sea closed in behind us.
🏖️ Paihia
Paihia felt immediately busier than Opua. The waterfront was lined with cafés, tour offices, and jetties, all geared towards visitors heading out into the bay. Boats arrived and departed constantly, carrying people to islands, fishing grounds, and scenic viewpoints. Despite that activity, it still felt relaxed rather than hectic.
Historically, Paihia sat close to some of the most important events in the country’s development, and its surroundings carried deep cultural meaning. Today, however, the focus was on leisure rather than legacy. We wandered along the seafront, watching people come and go, before settling into a café for coffee and food. After the walk, it felt well deserved. There was something pleasingly ordinary about sitting there, tired but content, watching the bay carry on as usual.
The return journey followed the road for part of the way before reconnecting with the track. It was quieter and less dramatic, though the final climb back up to the viewpoint tested our legs properly. By the time we reached our apartment again, both of us were more than ready for a rest.
🚗 Kawakawa and Its Quirks
Kawakawa was small but full of character. It had grown around coal mining and railway connections, and while those industries were long gone, the town had found other ways to stand out. The name came from a native plant traditionally used by Māori for medicinal purposes, a reminder that the area’s story stretched far back before mining arrived.
Walking through the town, it felt friendly and slightly eccentric. Shops were modest, streets were quiet, and there was a strong sense of local pride. It was the kind of place that felt comfortable being itself.
🚻 Hundertwasser Toilets
The most famous sight was the public toilet designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser. It was unlike anything else nearby, or anywhere else for that matter. Covered in mosaics, built with recycled materials, and deliberately uneven, it challenged the idea of what public buildings should look like. Hundertwasser believed straight lines did not belong in nature, and the building reflected that belief completely.
Despite the obvious novelty, it did not feel out of place. Instead, it suited Kawakawa’s slightly unconventional personality. We spent longer than expected looking at the details, agreeing that it was probably the most interesting toilet we were ever likely to see.
🚂 Bay of Islands Vintage Railway
The Bay of Islands Vintage Railway was far more than a novelty attraction and turned out to be one of the most interesting parts of the day. The line had its origins in the push to open up Northland for industry and settlement, when railways were seen as essential infrastructure rather than something optional. The original railway through Kawakawa was built to serve the local coal mines, which were discovered in the area during the nineteenth century. Coal was in high demand at the time, used for steamships, railways, and industry, and Kawakawa became an important inland source despite its small size.
The railway was constructed as part of the wider North Auckland Line, gradually extending northwards as funding and labour allowed. Kawakawa became a key stopping point, linking the mines inland with the port facilities at Opua. Coal trains ran regularly, carrying heavy loads through the town and along the bay. For decades, the railway was central to daily life. It brought jobs, connected communities, and allowed goods and people to move more easily through what was otherwise difficult country. When the coal industry declined and road transport became more dominant, the railway’s importance faded. Passenger services were eventually withdrawn, and freight trains stopped running. The line was formally closed, and much of the track was left unused.
Rather than letting it disappear completely, a group of local volunteers decided to save part of it. They restored a short section of track and rolling stock, gradually bringing the railway back to life as a heritage operation. What made it unusual was that the train still ran straight down the middle of Kawakawa’s main street, just as it had when it was part of the national rail network. Shops and cafés lined either side, and traffic stopped patiently as the train passed through. It felt less like a performance and more like a continuation of how things had once worked.
The current line ran from Kawakawa out into the surrounding countryside, following the original route through farmland, wetlands, and alongside a winding river. Much of the infrastructure dated back to the working railway, including bridges and embankments, which gave the journey a sense of authenticity. The volunteers take pride in keeping things simple and accurate rather than polished. Conversations with the crew made it clear that this was about preserving history as much as offering a ride.
Being invited into the locomotive cab added another layer to the experience. The diesel engine was practical and straightforward, reflecting the later working years of the line rather than its steam-era beginnings. Ray, the driver, spoke easily about the railway’s past and present, clearly knowing every curve and crossing by heart. Dave, his assistant, pointed out features along the route, including wetlands where rare bird species were sometimes seen. Crossing the long wooden trestle bridge stood out as a highlight, not just for its length and curve, but because it was a reminder of the engineering effort that had gone into building railways in difficult terrain.
At the end of the line, the track simply stopped, with the landscape stretching on beyond it. Plans were in place to extend the railway further in the future, restoring more of the original route as funding and permissions allowed. On the return journey, sitting back in the carriage gave a different view, slower and more reflective. By the time we arrived back in Kawakawa, it was clear that the railway was not just a tourist attraction. It was a living link to the town’s working past, kept alive by people who cared enough to do the hard work required to maintain it.
⛴️ Day Two – Across the Bay to the Islands
The morning started early again, earlier than either of us would normally choose, but there was a ferry to catch and no room for dithering. We made it down to the pier in good time and joined the small queue of people waiting to board. Most looked prepared for a day outdoors, loaded with backpacks, hats, and sensible shoes. Once on board, we headed straight for the upper deck. It was breezy but warm, and from up there the harbour opened out nicely as the ferry eased away from the jetty.
The first short stop was at Russell, just across the water from Paihia. We had a few minutes while passengers got on and off, enough time to look back at the shoreline and take it in properly. Russell was originally known by its Māori name, Kororāreka, and had been one of the earliest places where Māori and Europeans lived alongside one another. In its early days it was a busy port, serving whaling ships and traders, and developed a reputation for hard drinking and general disorder. It was briefly New Zealand’s first capital before that role was moved elsewhere. Standing there now, with tidy buildings and calm water, it was hard to reconcile that reputation with what we were seeing. Time had clearly softened the place.
Once underway again, the ferry headed properly out into the Bay of Islands. The bay spread wide in front of us, dotted with islands of every shape and size. Some were little more than rocky outcrops, while others were large enough to hold walking tracks, beaches, and sheltered coves. The water was calm, and the boat moved easily, giving plenty of time to look around. Long before European arrival, Māori had travelled these waters by canoe, fishing and moving between seasonal settlements. Later, European explorers and traders followed the same routes, using the bay as a safe anchorage and point of contact.
As we cruised along, the ferry slowed near Motuarohia, also known as Roberton Island. It stood out immediately because of its shape, with twin lagoons set back from the beach. The island had a layered past. It was once the site of a fortified Māori pā, taking advantage of its elevated position and natural defences. Later, it became associated with early European settlers, and not all of that history was peaceful. From the water, though, it looked calm and inviting, with pale sand and green hills rising gently behind it. We did not stop, but the captain slowed enough for everyone to get a good look.
Our destination was Urupukapuka Island, the largest island in the bay and one that had played an important role for centuries. For Māori, it had been a place for fishing, gathering food, and seasonal use, with evidence of long-term occupation across the island. Later, it was cleared and farmed, and parts of that pastoral landscape remained visible today. More recently, sections of the island had been set aside for recreation and conservation, with efforts underway to restore native bush and wildlife.
The ferry pulled into Otehei Bay, once the site of a fishing camp associated with Zane Grey. He spent time here and helped promote the Bay of Islands internationally as a destination for big-game fishing. Although the original lodge was long gone, the bay still carried a sense of that era, open and welcoming, with a wide sweep of sand and gentle water.
As we walked down the pier, we were immediately distracted by movement in the clear shallows below. An eagle ray glided past, its broad body moving smoothly as it skimmed the sandy bottom. It stayed in view for several minutes, unhurried and graceful, before drifting away. It felt like a small but special welcome to the island.
We crossed the beach to the café, which had only just opened. Apart from a few staff setting things up, it was quiet. We took advantage of the calm, ordered coffee, and sat outside for a while before setting off. From there, the walking tracks climbed quickly, leading up through open grassland dotted with sheep. The climb was steady rather than steep, and the views improved with every step. From higher ground, the bay spread out in all directions, with islands scattered across the water and the mainland stretching away in the distance.
The tracks on Urupukapuka were well laid out, linking bays and headlands and offering plenty of choice. We followed a loop that took us along clifftops, down into sheltered coves, and back through regenerating bush. The weather kept changing, with brief showers passing through before the sun returned. It never felt uncomfortable, just changeable, and the shifting light made the scenery more interesting. Birdlife was noticeable too, particularly small native species returning as predator control and restoration work continued.
By the time we made our way back to Otehei Bay, we were tired but satisfied. We had covered a fair distance and felt we had seen a good cross-section of the island. Lunch was simple and unhurried, eaten while watching more ferries arrive and the beach gradually fill with people. It was pleasant to sit still for a while after so much walking.
The ferry back to Paihia left on time, and not long into the journey the captain announced dolphins alongside the boat. A pod of bottlenose dolphins appeared almost immediately, swimming in the wake and leaping clear of the water. They stayed with us for a good stretch, moving easily and confidently as if the boat was part of their routine. Everyone watched quietly, cameras briefly forgotten, content just to see them.
By the time we reached Paihia again, most people on board looked happily worn out. We made our way back to the car and drove the short distance back to Opua. It had been a long day, full without feeling rushed, and it captured exactly what we were enjoying about the Bay of Islands
📝 Final Thoughts
Looking back on these days in the Bay of Islands, what stayed with me most was how easy everything felt. Nothing was overcomplicated and nothing tried too hard to impress. We walked, caught ferries, drank coffee, and covered a fair bit of ground, but it never felt rushed or demanding. The landscape did most of the work on its own. Hills, water, islands and small towns all fitted together in a way that made sense without explanation.
The history of the area was always present but never overwhelming. It showed itself in small ways: the shape of towns, the position of old ports, the routes taken by ferries and trains. You did not need plaques or displays to be reminded of it. It was simply part of how the place functioned. Māori history and European settlement felt woven into the land rather than separated out, which made it easier to understand how the region had developed over time.
What also stood out was the balance between activity and calm. We managed long walks, boat trips, and a heritage railway ride, yet there was always time to stop and sit somewhere without feeling that we should be moving on. Even the busier places never felt crowded for long. A short walk or a change in direction was usually enough to find some quiet again.
The wildlife encounters added to that sense of being somewhere still closely connected to nature. Seeing an eagle ray in clear water and dolphins swimming alongside the ferry were not staged moments, just things that happened because we were in the right place at the right time. They felt like bonuses rather than highlights planned in advance.
By the end of it, we were tired in a good way. The sort of tired that comes from being outdoors, doing things properly, and sleeping well at the end of the day. The Bay of Islands did not feel like somewhere to rush through or tick off. It felt like a place where you could easily stay longer, doing much the same thing each day and still not get bored.
Planning Your Visit to the Bay of Islands
📍 Location
The Bay of Islands sits in the subtropical far north of New Zealand’s North Island. It stretches across 144 islands of pristine coastline, sheltered bays and vibrant marine life. The region includes towns such as Paihia (a common base for visitors), Russell, Kerikeri, Waitangi and Opua.
🛬 Getting There
From Auckland:
By car it is about a 3 hour 50 minute scenic drive north of Auckland along State Highway 1 and SH10.
By air:
Domestic flights land at Kerikeri Airport, roughly 30 minutes from Paihia by road.
Rental cars are useful in the region as public transport is limited between towns and attractions; taxis, shuttle transfers and organised coach tours are also available.
🚍 Getting Around
Car or rental vehicle – Offers maximum flexibility.
Ferries and water taxis – Connect towns like Paihia and Russell across the water.
Cruises and day tours – For water-based sightseeing, wildlife encounters and island hopping.
🧭 Things to Be Aware Of
🧑🤝🧑 Culture
The Bay of Islands has deep Māori cultural significance, especially at Waitangi where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed in 1840. Respectful conduct at cultural sites is appreciated, including listening attentively on guided tours and not touching artefacts unless invited.
⚖️ Local Laws & Safety
Marine wildlife: Protected by local conservation laws. Do not disturb dolphins, seals or birdlife; stay with guided operators for wildlife encounters.
Water safety: If swimming or kayaking, check conditions and heed local advice on tides and currents.
Driving: In New Zealand vehicles drive on the left side of the road. Seat belts are mandatory; mobile phone use while driving is restricted.
Public conduct: Respect private property and signage, especially on beaches and islands.
🧳 Practical Tips
Book ahead for popular cruises and cultural tours in peak season, especially if you want specific departure times.
Pack essentials such as sun protection, swimwear, comfortable walking shoes, light waterproof jacket and reusable water bottle.
Explore beyond the coast – Inland towns like Kerikeri offer heritage sites, orchards and wineries; Kawakawa is known for quirky public art.
The best time to visit the Bay of Islands
🌤️ Best Time to Visit the Bay of Islands
The Bay of Islands in the far north of New Zealand enjoys a mild, maritime climate that makes it pleasant to visit for much of the year. However, the experience can vary quite a bit depending on when you go. The seasons here are opposite to those in the UK, with summer running from December to February and winter from June to August. Whether you’re after calm sailing weather, quiet walking trails, or a lively summer atmosphere, it’s worth knowing what each season brings.
☀️ Summer (December – February)
Summer is the most popular time to visit the Bay of Islands, and with good reason. The weather is at its best — long sunny days, light winds, and warm sea temperatures perfect for swimming, snorkelling, and cruising among the islands. Temperatures generally sit between 22°C and 28°C. This is also the peak tourist season, so places like Paihia, Russell, and Kerikeri can be busy, and accommodation prices rise accordingly. Ferries, tours, and restaurants are in full swing, creating a lively holiday atmosphere.
If you don’t mind the crowds, summer offers the Bay of Islands at its most vibrant. It’s the time for dolphin watching, sailing regattas, and relaxing on golden beaches such as Long Beach or Otehei Bay. Just remember to book ahead and take plenty of sun protection — the New Zealand sun can be deceptively strong.
🍂 Autumn (March – May)
Autumn is often considered one of the most pleasant times to visit. The sea remains warm enough for swimming, and the weather is still settled but with fewer visitors around. Temperatures drop slightly to around 18°C–24°C, and the evenings can become cooler. This season is ideal for exploring the region’s walking tracks, such as the Waitangi Treaty Grounds paths or the coastal trails on Urupukapuka Island, without the summer heat.
It’s also the time of year when the light softens, creating beautiful conditions for photography. Local produce is in abundance, and you’ll find a more relaxed pace everywhere. It’s a lovely balance of comfort, quiet, and beauty — perfect for travellers wanting a calmer experience.
🍃 Winter (June – August)
Winter in the Bay of Islands is mild by most standards. Temperatures usually range from 10°C to 17°C, and although you can expect more rain and wind, there are still many clear, sunny days. This is the quietest season, with far fewer tourists and lower prices. It’s a good time to enjoy the history and culture of the area — places like the Russell Museum, Stone Store, and Waitangi Treaty Grounds are peaceful and easy to explore.
The sea can be a bit cool for swimming, but winter is excellent for scenic drives, birdwatching, or taking warm walks along the coastline. The mood is tranquil, and you’ll often find yourself with beaches and viewpoints almost to yourself.
🌸 Spring (September – November)
Spring marks the start of the new travel season. The landscape bursts back into colour with fresh greenery and blossoms, and the temperatures rise to between 16°C and 22°C. Rain showers are still common, but they tend to pass quickly. This is a great time for sailing, kayaking, or taking a ferry to the islands before the summer rush begins.
Wildlife is active again — dolphins are often spotted close to shore, and native birds can be seen nesting in the reserves. The atmosphere is fresh and hopeful, and while the weather can be mixed, it’s an excellent time to visit if you prefer a quieter trip with fewer crowds and good value accommodation.
🎒 What to Pack
No matter when you visit, it’s best to pack layers. Even in summer, evenings can cool down, and the sea breeze can be strong. Bring:
Light clothing for warm days
A jumper or fleece for cooler evenings
A waterproof jacket or windbreaker
Comfortable walking shoes or sandals
Swimwear and a hat
Sunscreen and sunglasses (the UV levels are high)
A small daypack for exploring the islands
📊 Seasonal Summary
| Season | Temperature (°C) | Rainfall | Atmosphere | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Summer (Dec–Feb) | 22–28 | Low–Moderate | Lively, busy | Swimming, sailing, island tours |
| Autumn (Mar–May) | 18–24 | Moderate | Calm, scenic | Walking, photography, relaxed travel |
| Winter (Jun–Aug) | 10–17 | Moderate–High | Quiet, peaceful | History, culture, off-season deals |
| Spring (Sep–Nov) | 16–22 | Moderate | Fresh, colourful | Wildlife, sailing, good value |
🌅 Overall Best Time to Visit
The best overall time to visit the Bay of Islands is from late summer to early autumn (February to April). The weather is still warm and settled, the sea remains inviting, and the crowds start to thin out. You can enjoy the beaches, take ferries without the queues, and explore the trails in comfort. It’s the perfect balance between good weather, peaceful surroundings, and the relaxed charm that makes the Bay of Islands so special.
Where to stay in the Bay of Islands
1. Mid Range: Kingsgate Hotel Autolodge Paihia
Kingsgate Hotel Autolodge Paihia is a relaxed, practical place to stay right in the heart of Paihia, well suited to travellers who want comfort and location without any fuss. Set just across the road from the waterfront, the hotel offers easy access to the ferry terminal, tour operators, cafés, and the beach, making it a convenient base for exploring the Bay of Islands. Rooms are simple and spacious, many with balconies or patios, and are designed with short stays and family travel in mind rather than luxury. Guests have access to an outdoor swimming pool, on-site parking, and an in-house restaurant and bar, which adds to the ease of staying put after a day out on the water. Overall, it’s a straightforward, well-located option that suits travellers who value convenience, space, and a laid-back holiday atmosphere.
2. Luxury: Eagles Nest
Eagles Nest is a high-end retreat set above the historic village of Russell in the Bay of Islands, known for its privacy, space, and uninterrupted coastal views. Rather than a traditional hotel, it offers a collection of architecturally designed villas, each positioned to make the most of the sweeping harbour outlook and dramatic sunsets. The accommodation is aimed squarely at travellers looking for seclusion and comfort, with features such as private decks, heated infinity pools, open-plan living areas, and full kitchens designed for longer, relaxed stays. Service is discreet and personalised, with in-villa dining options and staff available when needed without intruding on the sense of calm. Its location allows easy access to Russell’s waterfront, beaches, and boat trips around the Bay of Islands, while still feeling completely removed once you are back on the property. Overall, it is best suited to couples, small groups, or special occasions where privacy, views, and a quiet sense of luxury matter more than a busy hotel atmosphere.
3. Budget: Centabay Lodge and Backpackers
Centabay Lodge and Backpackers is a relaxed and friendly budget accommodation option right in the heart of Paihia, making it a popular choice with backpackers and independent travellers exploring the Bay of Islands. The lodge offers a mix of dorm rooms and private rooms, catering to different budgets while keeping things informal and social. Guests have access to shared kitchens, comfortable common areas, and outdoor spaces that make it easy to meet other travellers or simply unwind after a day out on the water. Its central location means the beach, shops, cafés, ferry terminal and tour operators are all within easy walking distance, which is especially handy if you are booking boat trips or island cruises. Overall, Centabay Lodge and Backpackers is well suited to travellers who value location, a laid-back atmosphere, and good value over luxury, with a strong focus on community and practical comfort.
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