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Wyoming: Grand Teton National Park

🤠 Jackson, Wyoming

We are always on the lookout for somewhere that qualifies as genuinely romantic — not in a twee, chocolate-box sort of way, but places that actually make you feel something when you arrive. Jackson, Wyoming, is firmly in that category, and it rather took us by surprise, which is always the best way.

Tucked deep into the Rocky Mountains in north-west Wyoming, Jackson sits in a broad glacial valley that locals — and everyone else who wants to sound like they know what they’re talking about — call Jackson Hole. The word “Hole,” incidentally, was what the early 19th-century mountain men and fur trappers used to describe an enclosed mountain valley, which tells you something about the sort of hard-nosed, no-nonsense characters who first passed through here. The area had been home to the Shoshone and Bannock peoples for thousands of years before European settlers arrived, and it’s easy to see why they chose to stay — the setting is, frankly, absurd in its beauty.

Today, Jackson Hole is famed for its upscale ski resorts — Jackson Hole Mountain Resort being the big one, regularly ranked among the best in North America — and it draws a rather well-heeled crowd. Think less après-ski in soggy fleeces, more après-ski in cashmere. But it’s a genuinely wonderful place to visit at any time of year, and it makes a perfect stop-off on your way to the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, which are just up the road. Both are extraordinary, but that’s a story for another day.

On our most recent visit, we were touring in our motorhome, which is either a romantic notion or a sign of mild madness depending on your outlook. We ended up staying at the local KOA — that’s Kampground of America, for those not familiar with the chain — a few miles south of town. The site sits in a rather lovely spot next to the Snake River, which, when we visited in late spring, was absolutely roaring with snowmelt, a churning, muscular thing that looked as though it meant business. The location, then, was excellent.

The site itself, however, was a different matter. The pitches were tired, the washrooms were on the grim side of functional, and the whole place had the air of somewhere that had once been quite decent and then quietly given up. We’ve stayed at better KOAs. We’ve also stayed at worse, but that is not really the point. Suffice to say, if you have options, explore them.

For our first day in town, we decided to take things gently — which at our age is less a decision and more of a biological inevitability — and had a good wander around Jackson itself. We had visited the previous year and enjoyed it enormously, and had made one of those vows-over-dinner to come back, which we actually kept for once.

The old part of Jackson has a genuinely wonderful western feel to it. The covered wooden sidewalks creak pleasingly underfoot, the shop fronts have that false-front, frontier-town character you half-expect to see in a John Ford film, and the whole place has clearly worked hard to preserve its historic character rather than simply Disneyfying it — though there is, it must be said, a fine line.

At the heart of it all is a small town square, laid out with a tidy garden at its centre. The entrances at each corner are marked by tall, dramatic arches made entirely from the naturally shed antlers of elk — thousands of them, piled and woven into great swooping structures that are either magnificent or slightly alarming, depending on your disposition. The elk antlers have been collected from the nearby National Elk Refuge every spring since the early 20th century, when the Boy Scouts of America began the tradition. It has become one of the most photographed sights in Wyoming, which is saying something in a state full of extraordinary things to photograph. During the summer months, a stagecoach does short circuits around the perimeter of the square, which is cheerful and touristy and very enjoyable if you’re in the right mood.

Jackson is, make no mistake, an exclusive resort town. The shops are polished and the restaurants are the sort where the menu descriptions are longer than the portions. Everything is geared squarely at the tourist trade, which has been the engine of the local economy since at least the 1920s when wealthy Easterners first started arriving by train to dude ranches. The town has been managing the tension between its authentic western roots and its glossy resort identity ever since, and it does it rather well, all things considered.

We enjoyed browsing the shops a great deal — the window shopping, specifically, since a combination of an indifferent bank balance and the truly heroic lack of storage space in a motorhome made anything more than looking essentially out of the question. We have become remarkably good at admiring things and walking away. It is a skill, of sorts.

🦌 National Elk Refuge

Let me be honest — before we visited Jackson Hole, I thought an elk was basically just a posh deer. I was wrong. Elk are genuinely magnificent creatures, and seeing them up close rather puts paid to any lingering smugness about British wildlife. Yes, we have red deer. No, they are not the same thing.

Elk are the largest members of the deer family — Cervus canadensis, if you want to be technical about it, which I generally don’t. The bulls can tip the scales at a rather alarming 750 lb and stretch to around 8 feet in length. Their antlers alone can reach 4 feet and weigh in at 40 lb, which is more than most of the luggage we dragged across America. Unlike the moose — which tends to stomp about on its own looking thoroughly bad-tempered — elk are sociable animals that gather in herds, sometimes numbering in the thousands. Seeing a large group together is, without overstatement, one of those proper wildlife spectacles that reminds you the world is still a remarkable place.

The National Elk Refuge was established back in 1912, which makes it one of the older wildlife refuges in the United States. It sits right on the doorstep of Jackson town, covering a rather impressive 24,700 acres of mixed habitat — grassland, wetlands, and sage flats, all framed by the Teton Range doing its best to look cinematic in the background. During winter, the refuge becomes home to one of the largest elk herds on Earth, with numbers swelling to around 7,500 animals. If that doesn’t make the hair on the back of your neck stand up, I’m not sure what will.

Do bear in mind, however, that if you turn up in July expecting to see thousands of elk, you’ll be disappointed. The herd disperses into the surrounding forests and mountains during the warmer months. If you find yourself in Jackson out of season, the Jackson Hole & Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center at 532 N. Cache Street is well worth a visit and will tell you considerably more about the refuge than I can.

One highlight we stumbled upon quite by accident was ElkFest, an annual celebration held in the town square in Jackson on the weekend before Memorial Day — which in America falls on the last Monday of May, in case you’re planning ahead and don’t want to look it up. The festival has a properly unusual centrepiece: a live auction of elk antlers collected from the refuge itself. Every spring, elk naturally shed their antlers — a process called casting — and the antlers are gathered up from the refuge floor and put to good use. The local Boy Scouts troop gets very heavily involved, contributing over 2,000 volunteer hours to both the collection and the running of the auction. Seventy-five percent of the proceeds go directly back to the refuge for conservation and habitat management, with the remainder going into the Boy Scouts’ coffers — a rather sensible arrangement all round.

We were lucky enough to be visiting during ElkFest, and our son, being a Scout himself, pulled on his uniform and was able to join in with the local troop during the auction. He took to it with considerably more enthusiasm than he takes to anything I suggest, but there we are.

🏔️ Grand Teton National Park

Just ten miles south of Yellowstone — which, as we’d already established, is absolutely massive and takes far longer to get around than you’d ever imagine — sits Grand Teton National Park. In my humble opinion, it is one of the most spectacular of all America’s National Parks, and I’ve seen a fair few of them now, so I feel reasonably qualified to say that.

The park takes in all of the major peaks of the Teton Range, a dramatic chain of mountains stretching some 40 miles through north-western Wyoming. The range got its rather memorable name from French fur trappers working the region in the early 19th century, who took one look at the three dominant peaks and decided to call them Les Trois Tétons — which translates, rather bluntly, as “the three teats.” You have to admire the French for that. No faffing about with poetic names. The largest of these peaks, Grand Teton itself, rises a thoroughly imposing 13,775 feet straight out of the broad flat valley known as Jackson Hole. It doesn’t gradually build up to it, either — it just goes straight up, which is quite alarming when you’re standing at the bottom.

The park offers a good range of outdoor activities and camping, and the nearby town of Jackson makes an excellent base if you’d rather sleep in a proper bed — which, frankly, at our age, we would. If you’re not quite sure where to begin, a sensible first stop is the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center — commonly known as the Moose Visitor Center, presumably because “Craig Thomas” doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue. Opened in 2007, it’s a rather impressive 22,000 square-foot building with exhibits covering the full Grand Teton ecosystem. It’s light, airy, and — crucially — warm. On the bitterly cold morning we turned up, that last bit mattered more than any amount of geological information.

🏔️ Jenny Lake

If we had to pick one place on this entire planet that makes us go a bit misty-eyed, it would be Jenny Lake. We know, we know — there are mountains everywhere and lakes are hardly in short supply. But something about this particular spot, tucked away in the Grand Teton National Park in north-west Wyoming, just gets us every time.

The lake itself has a rather lovely backstory. It was named in the 1870s after Jenny, the Shoshone wife of Richard “Beaver Dick” Leigh — yes, that really was his nickname — a trapper and guide who became one of the more colourful characters of the American frontier. Leigh also lent his name to the nearby Leigh Lake, so the two of them are immortalised side by side in the landscape, which is rather touching. Jenny Lake sits at the foot of Cascade Canyon, with the jagged Teton peaks looming behind it like something out of a geography teacher’s fever dream.

Most visitors start at the South Jenny Lake area, and honestly, most of them don’t get much further than that. It has everything — a visitor centre, a ranger station, a campground, and docks. The result, particularly in the summer months between June and August when the whole of America apparently decides to go on holiday simultaneously, is that it gets absolutely rammed. If you prefer your wilderness with a bit less car park energy, the North Jenny Lake area is the answer. You can walk there along one of the many excellent trails, or — and we are not ashamed to admit we have done this — take the shuttle boat across from the South area docks. There’s no rule that says exploring nature requires suffering.

The trails around Jenny Lake are genuinely brilliant, and we have done several of them over the years. They range from gentle lakeside strolls with spectacular viewpoints to more ambitious routes heading up into the inner mountain ranges. Some near the South lake area are even wheelchair accessible, which is a refreshing bit of thoughtfulness. For those with more ambition — and considerably better knees than us — Jenny Lake also serves as the launching point for multiday hikes and, for the properly adventurous, mountaineering ascents of the Tetons themselves. We watched some people heading off with enormous rucksacks and crampons and felt entirely at peace with our life choices.

Like most of Grand Teton National Park, Jenny Lake is straightforward to find. The North and South recreation areas are clearly signed from the Teton Park Road, which is the main route through the park. A seven-day park pass costs $35 per car, $20 per biker or hiker, and $30 per motorcyclist — though do check current prices as these things have a habit of quietly going up.

Planning Your Visit to the Grand Teton National Park

🗺️ Location

Grand Teton National Park Moose, Wyoming 83012 United States

The park sits immediately south of Yellowstone National Park and the two are connected by the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway. The nearest town is Jackson, Wyoming, approximately 12 miles south of the park’s Moose entrance, which serves as the main gateway for most visitors.

The park is accessible via three entrance stations: Moose (south), Moran (east) and Granite Canyon (south-west). From Jackson Hole Airport, the park boundary is just minutes away by car.


🌐 Website

Official National Park Service website: https://www.nps.gov/grte/ (opens in a new tab)

Plan Your Visit page: https://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/index.htm (opens in a new tab)


📞 Contact

Telephone (General Information): +1 307-739-3300

Telephone (Talk to a Ranger — Visitor Information): +1 307-739-3399 Rangers are available Monday to Friday during business hours.

Telephone (Hearing Impaired/TDD): +1 307-739-3301

Email: Via the online contact form at https://www.nps.gov/grte/contacts.htm (opens in a new tab)

Postal Address: Grand Teton National Park P.O. Box 170 Moose, WY 83012-0170 United States


🕐 Opening Hours

Grand Teton National Park is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. However, road access, visitor facilities and campgrounds follow seasonal schedules.

The main visitor season runs from May through September, when the majority of roads, facilities and ranger-led programmes are fully operational. From November through April, some roads close, all campgrounds shut, and most visitor facilities operate on reduced hours or close entirely.

Key 2026 facility dates (subject to change):

Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Centre (Moose) — Open 10 April to 31 October

Jenny Lake Visitor Centre — Open 15 May to 12 October

Jenny Lake Ranger Station — Open approximately 6 June to 7 September

Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Centre — Open 1 June to 20 September

Gros Ventre Campground — Open 27 April to 10 October

Jenny Lake Campground — Open 2 May to 27 September

For the latest road conditions and seasonal closures, visit: https://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/roads.htm (opens in a new tab)


💵 Entry Fees

An entrance fee is required to enter Grand Teton National Park. Passes are available at all entrance stations and at the permit desks at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Centre and Colter Bay Visitor Centre. A valid photo ID is required alongside your pass.

Private Vehicle (7 days): $35.00 USD — covers the driver and all passengers in the vehicle.

Motorcycle (7 days): $30.00 USD — valid for up to two motorcycles with up to four passengers total.

Per Person on foot or bicycle (7 days): $20.00 USD — for each visitor aged 16 and over entering on foot, bicycle or skis.

Grand Teton Annual Pass: Covers unlimited entries for 12 months.

America the Beautiful Pass: $80.00 USD per year — grants access to more than 2,000 federal recreation sites across the United States, including all national parks. Recommended for visitors planning to visit more than one national park. Discounted or free versions are available for seniors, military personnel, visitors with permanent disabilities, and families with a child enrolled in the fourth grade.

Non-US Residents (aged 16 and over): An additional fee of $100.00 USD per person applies on top of the standard entrance fee, unless entering with an Annual or America the Beautiful Pass.

Education and Academic Groups: Schools and accredited educational institutions may apply for a fee waiver for educational or scientific visits. Prior approval is required.

For full details on fees and passes: https://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/fees.htm (opens in a new tab)


🏔️ What to See and Do

Hiking

Grand Teton offers trails suited to every ability level, from gentle lakeside walks to demanding multi-day backcountry routes. Among the most popular is the trail to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point, accessed from Jenny Lake. The 4.9-mile round trip leads through forest to a 100-foot waterfall before climbing to a sweeping panoramic viewpoint over the Jackson Hole Valley, Jenny Lake and Cascade Canyon. A boat shuttle service runs across Jenny Lake during the summer season, shortening the journey considerably.

The Teton Crest Trail is a celebrated 40-mile long-distance route that follows the spine of the Teton Range through wildflower-filled alpine terrain, typically taking three to five days to complete. Backcountry permits are required and can be applied for via Recreation.gov six months in advance.

Taggart Lake is an excellent choice for those seeking a manageable hike with spectacular mountain views and a beautiful glacial lake as its destination. The Cascade Canyon Trail is another firm favourite, offering dramatic scenery and the possibility of wildlife sightings along the way.

Wildlife Viewing

Grand Teton is one of the finest wildlife-watching destinations in North America. The park is home to grizzly bears, black bears, wolves, elk, moose, bison, bald eagles, osprey and pronghorn, among many other species. Top viewing areas include Oxbow Bend along the Snake River, Willow Flats near Jackson Lake Lodge, Mormon Row and the Moose-Wilson Road. Going out early in the morning or around dusk offers the greatest chance of sightings. Visitors are strongly advised to carry bear spray in bear country and should never approach wildlife.

Scenic Drives

The 42-mile Teton Park Scenic Loop Drive is an ideal way to take in the park’s most iconic views, combining Teton Park Road with Route 191 to pass by Jenny Lake, multiple overlooks and historic sites. The Moose-Wilson Road is a narrow, winding route particularly favoured for wildlife spotting near its beaver pond areas. Signal Mountain Summit Road offers elevated views across Jackson Hole and the entire Teton Range, when open seasonally.

Boating and Water Activities

Jenny Lake, Jackson Lake and several other glacial lakes within the park offer opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, and scenic boat cruises. The Colter Bay Marina on Jackson Lake rents kayaks and canoes during the summer season. White-water and scenic float trips on the Snake River are widely available through local outfitters, with the popular 10-mile float from Deadmans Bar to Moose Landing taking approximately two to three hours.

Fly Fishing

The Snake River and Jackson Lake are regarded as world-class fly-fishing destinations. Guided fishing trips depart from Colter Bay Marina, and a number of licensed outfitters operate throughout the park. A Wyoming fishing licence is required.

Mountaineering and Climbing

The Grand Teton summit, at 13,775 feet (4,199 metres), is a coveted objective for experienced mountaineers. Guided ascents are available through Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, who lead groups up the peaks in summer and offer ski mountaineering in winter.

Ranger Programmes

From mid-June to September, the park offers complimentary interpretive programmes at Jackson Lake Lodge, Colter Bay Village and other locations. These include ranger-led hikes, wildlife talks, campfire programmes and naturalist sessions covering subjects such as birds of prey, grizzly bears and mountain lions. Check the park event calendar for the latest listings.

Mormon Row Historic District

A collection of well-preserved early 20th-century homestead buildings set against the backdrop of the Teton Range. The iconic barns at Mormon Row are among the most photographed structures in the American West.

Stargazing

Grand Teton’s remote location and minimal light pollution make it an exceptional spot for stargazing. On clear nights the Milky Way is visible in remarkable detail above the mountain peaks.


🏕️ Getting There

By Air: Jackson Hole Airport (airport code JAC) is located within the park boundary and receives regular flights from several major US cities. It is the most convenient point of arrival for international visitors, though connections via Denver, Salt Lake City or other hub airports are typically required.

By Road: The park is approximately 275 miles north of Salt Lake City and around 175 miles south of Billings, Montana. Most visitors travelling by road approach via US Highway 89/191 from Jackson to the south, or from Yellowstone National Park to the north.

Car Hire: A hire car is strongly recommended. Public transport within the park is limited, and having your own vehicle gives you the flexibility to access trailheads, overlooks and remote areas at your own pace. Be aware that parking at popular spots such as Jenny Lake can fill up very early during the summer months.

Best time to visit Wyoming

🌸 Spring (April–May)

Spring in Wyoming is a season of transition and reward for the patient traveller. Temperatures range from around 4°C to 18°C, though higher elevations remain cold and snow lingers well into May in places such as Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Rain is common at lower altitudes, and mountain passes may still be closed or subject to sudden closures. The advantage is a landscape coming alive: wildflowers begin to carpet valley floors, rivers run high and fast with snowmelt, and wildlife is highly active — bison calves appear in Yellowstone, bears emerge from hibernation, and bird migration is at its peak. Crowds are minimal compared to summer, making it easier to secure accommodation and move freely through the parks. It is an ideal season for photographers and wildlife enthusiasts willing to accept changeable conditions.

What to pack: Waterproof hiking boots, a mid-layer fleece, a packable down jacket, waterproof trousers, layering base tops, a rain jacket, sun cream (UV is strong at altitude), binoculars, and a warm hat and gloves for early mornings and higher elevations.


☀️ Summer (June–August)

Summer is Wyoming’s most popular season and for good reason. Temperatures are warm and often hot, reaching 25–30°C in the valleys, while the mountains remain pleasantly cool. All park roads are open, accommodation is plentiful, and the full range of outdoor activities — hiking, rafting, horse riding, fly fishing, and wildlife watching — is available. Grand Teton National Park is breathtaking under clear blue skies, with the Teton Range reflected in the Snake River. Yellowstone is in full swing, with geysers, hot springs, and abundant wildlife on display. July brings festivals across the state, including the famous Cheyenne Frontier Days rodeo. The trade-off is significant: this is peak season, and roads, campsites, and lodges fill quickly. Afternoon thunderstorms are frequent, particularly in July and August, so morning starts are advisable. Book months in advance.

What to pack: Lightweight hiking layers, a waterproof shell jacket, UV-protective clothing, a sun hat, high-SPF sun cream, insect repellent, sturdy trail shoes or hiking boots, a refillable water bottle, and a light fleece for evenings.


🍂 Autumn (September–October)

Autumn is arguably Wyoming’s finest season. Temperatures cool to between 0°C and 18°C, crowds thin dramatically after the Labour Day weekend in early September, and the landscape undergoes a spectacular transformation. Aspen trees turn vivid gold across hillsides and valleys — particularly striking in the Bridger-Teton National Forest and around Jackson Hole. September is prime elk rut season in Grand Teton, with bulls bugling at dawn and dusk, one of the most dramatic wildlife spectacles in North America. Bears are active and feeding heavily before hibernation, making wildlife sightings excellent throughout Yellowstone. Prices drop noticeably after the summer peak, and accommodation is more readily available. By late October, early snow becomes likely, and some facilities begin to close. Timing a visit for mid-September to mid-October offers the best balance of colour, wildlife, weather, and value.

What to pack: Waterproof hiking boots, thermal base layers, a warm mid-layer, a windproof and waterproof outer shell, hat and gloves, warm socks, binoculars for wildlife, and a camera for the foliage.


❄️ Winter (November–March)

Winter in Wyoming is dramatic, demanding, and deeply rewarding for those who seek it out. Temperatures frequently drop to -15°C or colder in January and February, heavy snowfall transforms the landscape, and many roads and facilities close entirely. However, winter reveals a different side of Wyoming that few visitors experience. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is one of the finest ski destinations in North America, offering expert terrain and reliable snowpack. Yellowstone becomes an otherworldly scene of steaming geothermal features set against frozen silence, accessible by guided snowcoach or snowmobile tour — the only way to enter the interior of the park in winter. Bison and wolves are more easily spotted against white snowfields. Costs and crowds are low outside of the ski resorts themselves, where prices peak in January and February.

What to pack: Heavyweight thermal base layers, insulated waterproof trousers, a down-filled parka, ski gloves or heavyweight mittens, a balaclava and wool hat, wool socks, insulated waterproof boots rated to -25°C or below, hand warmers, and UV-rated goggles or sunglasses for snow glare.


📊 Season at a Glance

🗓️ The Best Time to Visit Wyoming

For most visitors, late September strikes the ideal balance across every measure. The summer crowds have gone, accommodation prices have fallen, and yet the weather remains crisp and manageable. The elk rut delivers one of the most electrifying wildlife encounters anywhere in the world, aspen gold is at its peak, and clear autumn light makes for exceptional photography. Serious hikers and outdoor adventurers are best served by July, when all trails are accessible and conditions are reliably good, despite the crowds. Those seeking true solitude and a genuinely remote encounter with the landscape should consider a guided winter visit to Yellowstone — an experience that has very few rivals anywhere. Spring, while underrated, is best reserved for wildlife enthusiasts with flexible schedules willing to accept unpredictable conditions. Whenever you go, Wyoming rewards those who venture beyond the car window.

Where to stay in Jackson and the Grand Tetons

1. Hotel Jackson

Hotel Jackson sits right on Town Square in the centre of Jackson, Wyoming, putting guests within easy reach of both the town’s shops and restaurants and, a little further afield, Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone. The building itself blends natural materials — timber and stone — with clean modernist lines, and it was the first LEED-certified hotel in Jackson. Rooms come well equipped, with gas fireplaces, Nespresso machines and soaking tubs in most, plus generous ski storage, which is sensible given the location 25 minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. The on-site restaurant takes a Lebanese-Mediterranean approach rather than the expected steakhouse route, and there is a rooftop hot tub with mountain views. It holds a strong reputation for personalised service, which goes some way towards justifying the premium room rates. For those wanting a centrally located, independently owned base in Jackson Hole, it is a solid option

2. Bentwood Inn

The Bentwood Inn is a luxury log lodge set on 3.5 acres in Wilson, just outside Jackson, Wyoming — roughly five miles from both Grand Teton National Park and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Built in 1995 using 200-year-old logs salvaged after the 1988 Yellowstone fires, the building has real character without feeling contrived. Guest rooms each have a private fireplace, most come with a king bed and jetted tub, and several have a personal deck or porch. The Great Room features a three-storey river rock fireplace and a baby grand piano. Breakfast is prepared fresh daily by a chef and is included in the rate, with evening hors d’oeuvres also on offer. The inn holds National Geographic Unique Lodge of the World status — one of only five such properties in the United States — reflecting its emphasis on sustainability and service. Wildlife regularly passes through the grounds, and the surrounding area offers year-round outdoor activities. It is firmly in the luxury bracket, but the scale remains intimate.

3. Grand Teton National Park Lodging

There are a lot of options for staying in the Park, but as usual, things get snapped up almost as quickly as they become available.

Lodging choices include cabins, and camping in the centre of Grand Teton National Park, allowing you to experience the park with ease! Each unique location offers a variety of amenities and activities both on the property and nearby. From the AAA four-diamond Jenny Lake Lodge to the historic full-service Jackson Lake Lodge, to camping and cabins at Colter Bay Village and Headwaters at Flagg Ranch, you’ll find something that will work for you!

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