Seattle Gum Wall is covered in thousands of pieces of chewing gum that have been placed on the side of the Post Alley's Market Theater (now Unexpected Productions) since the early 1990s.
USA: Washington – Beacon Rock State Park
🪨 Beacon Rock — A Thanksgiving Morning Climb Up a Very Large Lump of Basalt
We’d been rolling along Route 14 through the Columbia River Gorge — which is, frankly, one of the more spectacular drives you can do in the Pacific Northwest — when Beacon Rock hoved into view. And when I say hoved into view, I mean it. At 848 feet of sheer basalt volcanic plug rising from the north bank of the Columbia River, the thing doesn’t exactly creep up on you. It’s there. Very much there. It’s been there, geologically speaking, for somewhere between 57,000 and 2 million years, which puts into sharp perspective the amount of time I’ve spent arguing about the thermostat.
Beacon Rock sits about 32 miles east of Vancouver, Washington — not Vancouver, Canada, just to avoid any confusion — within Skamania County, and forms the centrepiece of Beacon Rock State Park, a geologically significant preserve and recreation area within the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. The whole gorge is remarkable, carved out by cataclysmic Ice Age flooding roughly 15,000 years ago, and the rock itself is one of the largest monoliths in North America.
Rather famously, on the 31st of October 1805 — Halloween, though the significance of that date was presumably lost on them — the Lewis and Clark Expedition rocked up here and made a rather important observation: the river’s tidal action. They were the first to measure tides at this location, which told them, with some relief one imagines, that the Pacific Ocean was finally within reach. They’d only been walking since May 1804, so you can understand why this was encouraging news. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark named it Beacon Rock at that point, which at least shows they were being practical about things. They had enough on their plate without getting poetic.
It was Thanksgiving morning when we decided to tackle it — because apparently what this particular holiday needed was less turkey and more vertical effort. The weather was doing exactly what North West winters do: cold, damp, and deeply committed to being unpleasant, though we did manage to dodge the worst of the rain showers. Whether this was luck or simply that the clouds were taking a brief rest before their next assault, I couldn’t say.
The rock is essentially a near-vertical slab of ancient basalt — and I don’t use the word “near” to be generous — which reminded us rather forcefully of Devils Tower in Wyoming, that extraordinary igneous column that sticks up out of the Wyoming landscape looking like something a geologist put there on purpose. Both are, in their way, deeply impressive examples of what happens when you let magma cool slowly underground and then erode everything around it for a few million years. Nature’s version of sculpture, if you will.
The path to the top winds its way up in a series of switchbacks — sensibly, since going straight up would be the sort of adventure that ends with a helicopter and some very awkward paperwork. Much of the route is naturally carved into the rock face itself, which gives the whole thing a pleasingly rugged character. At various points, however, the path is supplemented by metal walkways and staircases bolted directly into the basalt. For anyone with even a passing familiarity with Harry Potter, these walkways brought to mind the moving staircases at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry — except, crucially, these ones were firmly anchored to solid volcanic rock rather than floating about on enchantment and narrative convenience. Which I think we all agreed was reassuring.
The whole climb takes somewhere between 20 and 30 minutes, which puts it firmly in the category of “doable without dying” rather than “achievement requiring a medal.” It’s not particularly arduous — more of a sustained stroll upwards with good handrails — but it does the job. And the views from the top, even on a grey, blustery, thoroughly November sort of day, were genuinely worth the effort. The Columbia River stretched away below us in both directions, framed by the forested ridges of the gorge, looking magnificently indifferent to our presence.
The other considerable advantage of going on Thanksgiving Day in weather that a sensible person would describe as “deeply uninviting” was the near-total absence of other humans. The place was practically ours. No queues, no selfie sticks in the peripheral vision, no cheerful families blocking the path to explain how far along the trail they were. Just the wind, the basalt, and us. Bliss, in a slightly chilly sort of way.
Climbing to the top of Beacon Rock on that cold, breezy Thanksgiving morning most definitely blew out the cobwebs — quite literally, as it happens, given the wind — and we thoroughly enjoyed every damp, blustery moment of it. So, if you find yourself passing through the Columbia River Gorge, we’d strongly suggest stopping off. It takes less than an hour, the history is genuinely fascinating, and the view is entirely disproportionate to the effort involved. What more could you ask for, really.
Planning your visit to Beacon Rock
📍 Location
Beacon Rock State Park is situated on State Route 14 in Skamania County, Washington State, within the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. The park lies approximately 35 miles east of Vancouver, Washington, on the north bank of the Columbia River. The address is 34841 SR 14, Stevenson, WA 98648.
From Seattle, take I-5 south to Vancouver, then I-205 south to the Highway 14 exit. Follow Highway 14 east; the park entrance is at mile post 35. From Portland, take I-84 eastbound along the Columbia River to Cascade Locks, then cross into Washington via the Bridge of the Gods toll bridge and head west on Highway 14.
🌋 About the Park
Beacon Rock State Park is a 4,458-acre, year-round camping and recreation park at the heart of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. Its centrepiece is Beacon Rock itself — an 848-foot basalt volcanic plug that stands as one of the largest free-standing monoliths in the Northern Hemisphere. Sculpted by catastrophic Ice Age floods that stripped away the outer walls of an ancient volcano, it is an extraordinary geological landmark with a remarkable human history.
The rock was named by the Lewis and Clark Expedition on 31st October 1805, close to the point where the explorers first detected tidal influence from the Pacific Ocean on the Columbia River. It later became known as Castle Rock before the name Beacon Rock was formally restored in 1916. In the early twentieth century, naturalist Henry J. Biddle purchased the rock and commissioned the construction of a trail to its summit. His heirs donated it to the State of Washington in 1935, and the Civilian Conservation Corps carried out further development, much of which remains in use today.
The park encompasses 9,500 feet of freshwater shoreline on the Columbia River and more than 26 miles of roads and trails available for hiking, mountain biking, and equestrian use.
🥾 Things to Do
Hiking is the park’s most popular activity. The signature Beacon Rock Trail climbs 848 feet via 52 switchbacks and metal catwalks carved directly into the volcanic rock face, rewarding visitors with panoramic views of the Columbia River Gorge. The trail is approximately 1.6 miles return.
Beyond Beacon Rock itself, the park offers access to Hamilton Mountain Summit, Rodney Falls, Hardy Falls, and the Pool of the Winds. Hikers begin at the Upper Campground trailhead and pass through Douglas fir old-growth forest. An ADA-accessible, paved 1.2-mile interpretive loop — the Doetsch Walking Path — winds through the former Doetsch family ranch and features interpretive panels on the area’s natural and human history, from the Ice Age floods to the present.
Rock climbing is a celebrated pursuit here. Beacon Rock is regarded as one of the finest traditional climbing destinations in the Pacific Northwest. Climbers should be aware that the south and south-east faces of Beacon Rock close annually on 1st February and tentatively reopen in mid-July to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. The north-west face remains open for climbing year-round. The east face is closed permanently due to environmental sensitivity and the presence of rare species and cultural resources.
Mountain biking and horse riding are well catered for with 13 miles of bike trails and a dedicated equestrian trailhead providing multiuse access to Hardy Ridge and beyond.
Boating and fishing are popular on the Columbia River. The park provides one boat launch, 916 feet of moorage dock, and a boat pump-out station. Anglers fish for salmon, steelhead, sturgeon, bass, and walleye below Bonneville Dam.
Birdwatching is rewarding throughout the year. Species recorded in the park include the Pileated Woodpecker, Red-breasted Sapsucker, Northern Pygmy Owl, Peregrine Falcon, Western Tanager, and Black-headed Grosbeak.
Picnicking and camping facilities are extensive. There are two kitchen shelters with electricity, plus 53 unsheltered picnic tables. The Upper Campground, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1935, offers standard tent sites in a forested setting. The Woodard Creek Campground offers two standard sites and five full hook-up sites for RVs up to 40 feet. An equestrian camp area provides two primitive sites for visitors arriving with horses. A group camp with a kitchen shelter is available by reservation for parties of up to 100 people.
The Best Time to Visit Washington State
Washington State is one of the most climatically diverse destinations in the United States, ranging from the rain-soaked rainforests of the Olympic Peninsula to the sun-baked vineyards of the Yakima Valley and the volcanic grandeur of Mount Rainier. The best time to visit depends entirely on what you hope to experience — and every season brings its own character.
🌸 Spring (March–May)
Spring arrives gradually in Washington, with coastal and lowland areas warming ahead of the mountains. The Skagit Valley erupts into colour with one of North America’s most spectacular tulip displays, drawing visitors from across the world each April. Cherry blossoms frame the Capitol Campus in Olympia, hiking trails in the foothills begin to open, and the crowds that dominate summer have not yet arrived.
Temperatures range from around 10°C on cool March mornings to a pleasant 18°C by late May. Rainfall is frequent, particularly in western Washington, so expect a mix of sunshine and showers. The Cascade and Olympic mountain passes may still carry snow well into April, limiting access to some higher trails.
Spring is an excellent time for wildlife spotting — grey whales migrate along the Pacific coast, and wildflowers carpet the meadows of the Columbia Hills. It is also shoulder season, meaning accommodation prices are lower and popular sites are blissfully uncrowded.
What to pack: Waterproof jacket, lightweight thermal base layers, walking boots with good grip, packable umbrella, quick-dry trousers, sunglasses, and a mid-layer fleece for cool evenings.
☀️ Summer (June–August)
Summer is Washington’s undisputed high season. Western Washington finally sheds its grey skies for weeks of reliably warm, dry sunshine — Seattle averages just one inch of rainfall across July and August. Temperatures on the coast and in the cities hover between 22°C and 28°C, whilst eastern Washington — particularly the Tri-Cities and Walla Walla — can push well above 32°C.
This is the prime season for outdoor adventure: hiking to glaciers on Mount Rainier, kayaking the San Juan Islands, cycling the Palouse, and exploring the North Cascades. Ferry queues are long, campsite reservations fill months in advance, and Olympic National Park sees its highest foot traffic. The trade-off for all that sunshine is planning and booking ahead — spontaneous travel in summer can be frustrating.
Festivals abound: Seafair in Seattle, the Bumbershoot music and arts festival, and dozens of farmers’ markets and outdoor concerts across the state make summer a culturally rich time to visit.
What to pack: Sunscreen (SPF 50+), wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, light breathable layers, sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes, a light waterproof for unexpected showers, reusable water bottle, and insect repellent for forested areas.
🍂 Autumn (September–November)
Autumn is arguably Washington’s most underrated season. September retains much of summer’s warmth whilst the crowds thin rapidly after Labour Day. The eastern slopes of the Cascades ignite in amber, russet, and gold; the Leavenworth valley — Washington’s Bavarian-themed mountain town — is particularly dramatic in October. Wine enthusiasts flock to Walla Walla, Yakima, and the Columbia Valley for harvest season, when many wineries open their doors for tastings and tours.
Temperatures begin to drop noticeably from October onwards, and rainfall increases across western Washington. By November, the mountains are receiving early snowfall and some higher trails close. Coastal towns grow quiet, offering a serene atmosphere for those who prefer solitude over sunshine.
Birdwatchers are rewarded with impressive migratory waterfowl arrivals at Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge and along the Columbia River. Mushroom foraging is also a beloved autumn pursuit in the Cascades’ forests.
What to pack: Warm mid-layers, a waterproof and windproof outer shell, scarf, light gloves, sturdy waterproof walking boots, warm hat, and a camera — the light in autumn is extraordinary.
❄️ Winter (December–February)
Winter transforms Washington into two very different destinations. In the mountains, resorts such as Crystal Mountain, Stevens Pass, and Mission Ridge offer excellent downhill skiing and snowboarding, with the Cascades receiving heavy, reliable snowfall. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing on trails around Snoqualmie Pass are popular weekend pursuits for Seattleites.
In the lowlands and cities, winter is mild by American standards — Seattle rarely sees prolonged freezing temperatures — but it is grey, wet, and persistently overcast. This is, however, an excellent time to enjoy the city’s world-class food and coffee culture, visit the Seattle Art Museum, or explore the Pike Place Market without the summer scrum. Hotel prices drop considerably, and the atmosphere in smaller towns takes on an unhurried, local character.
The Pacific coast in winter has a raw, dramatic beauty — storm-watching from the shores of Long Beach or the rocky headlands of Cape Flattery is a genuine experience, particularly during periods of high swell.
What to pack: Heavy insulated coat, thermal base layers, waterproof over-trousers, waterproof boots with ankle support, warm gloves, wool hat, merino wool socks, and — if heading to ski areas — appropriate ski or snowboard gear.
🗺️ Overall: The Best Time to Visit
For most visitors, late June through September offers the optimum balance of warm, dry weather, accessible trails, and full seasonal attractions — though it demands advance planning and comes at peak cost. Those seeking a quieter, more atmospheric experience should seriously consider September and early October, when summer’s warmth lingers, the foliage is magnificent, wine country is at its most animated, and the queues have largely dissolved. Travellers on a budget, or those drawn to skiing and snowshoeing, will find Washington equally rewarding in winter. The honest truth is that Washington State does not have a bad season — only different ones, each with its own distinct rewards for those willing to dress accordingly and embrace what the Pacific Northwest does best.
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