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Alaska: Denali National Park
🏔️ Heading North — Denali, Bears, and a Mountain That Plays Hard to Get
After a few days pottering around Anchorage and Seward, we pointed the car north and headed into the Alaskan interior, cutting through the vast and frankly rather imposing Alaska Range. This is the great geographical dividing line of the state — wet and relatively mild on the southern side, drier and considerably colder to the north. Rather like the Pennines, but scaled up by someone who clearly had no sense of proportion.
Tucked within this range, though “tucked” is perhaps the wrong word for something this enormous, sat the centrepiece of the whole show: Mount McKinley. The Athabaskan people — Alaska’s indigenous inhabitants who have lived in the interior for thousands of years — have always known it as Denali, meaning “The Great One.” They were not wrong. Standing at 20,320 feet (6,194 m), it is the highest mountain peak in North America, and it has been throwing its considerable weight around for a very long time indeed.
Now, people will tell you that Everest is higher, and technically they’re right — its summit sits some 9,000 feet (2,700 m) above McKinley’s. But here’s the thing: Everest cheats. Its base starts on the Tibetan Plateau at roughly 17,000 feet (5,200 m), which gives it a true vertical rise of only around 12,000 feet (3,700 m) from base to summit. McKinley, by contrast, rises from a plateau of about 2,000 feet, giving it an actual vertical rise of around 18,000 feet (5,500 m). In terms of sheer bulk and rise, McKinley wins. Everest gets the headlines; McKinley does the actual work.
Of course, Alaska being Alaska, the weather had other ideas. As we left Anchorage, the rain was hammering down and the clouds were sitting so low they were practically on the bonnet. McKinley is famously shy — cloud cover obscures it more often than not, and it seemed entirely possible that we were going to drive for hours only to see a wall of grey. We hoped for the best and kept going.
Then, about halfway up the long drive to Denali National Park, we spotted a line of cars pulled over on the roadside. Being nosy — which is, I think, a basic human requirement in Alaska — we pulled over too. There, just off the tarmac, was a black bear, completely unbothered by the small crowd of tourists and entirely focused on its lunch. We got out carefully, because despite the bear’s apparent indifference, these animals can turn nasty if they feel cornered. Fortunately, this one showed no such inclinations, and we snapped a few photos before moving on, feeling rather pleased with ourselves.
And then, as if the day hadn’t already over-delivered, the clouds began to lift. Twenty minutes later, the sky cleared just enough, and there it was — Denali, enormous and snow-capped, rising above its neighbours like it owned the place. Which, of course, it does. We pulled over and stood there for a good while, just staring. Some days things go exactly right, and this was one of them.
🪵 Denali Lodge, a Dodgy Hill, and a Family Meltdown
For two nights we were based at the Denali Lodge cabins. We had imagined something charmingly rustic — proper log cabins with a rocking chair on the porch and a moose wandering past at dusk. What we actually got was something rather more reminiscent of the potting shed that gentlemen of a certain age retreat to when they need to escape the prying eyes and sharp tongues of their spouses. Functional. Private. Entirely without pretension. Still, we hadn’t come to Alaska to admire the soft furnishings, and since we planned to spend as little time as possible inside the thing, we made our peace with it fairly quickly.
The weather, to its credit, was behaving itself. Alaska in summer is a genuinely strange and wonderful thing — the days stretch on and on, giving you far more daylight than any sensible person knows what to do with. We used ours wisely by heading straight to Denali National Park to check what programmes were running the following day. Admin sorted, we decided to drive the 11 miles into the park that private vehicles are actually permitted to travel. Beyond that point, you hand yourself over to a tour bus, which we were not yet ready to do. A hike, we decided, was the thing.
Now, the parents — Karen and I — had envisaged a gentle stroll along the river. Something flat. Something pleasant. Something that didn’t require the legs to do anything particularly dramatic. Jack and Emily, however, had spotted a hill and announced that they intended to climb it. The children won. They usually do.
Up we went. It became apparent fairly quickly that “hill” was doing a lot of heavy lifting as a description. This was steep, uneven, rocky terrain — the sort of thing that separates the quietly fit from those of us who consider a brisk walk to the car park a reasonable workout. Karen made the entirely sensible decision to stop and wait. Jack, Emily and I pressed on.
Then my own lack of fitness asserted itself with some force, and I stopped too, waving the children upward on the grounds that the top couldn’t be far now. It was, of course, farther than it looked. They disappeared over a ridge and didn’t come back. Ten minutes passed. Then fifteen. I started climbing again, calling out, getting no answer, and beginning to catastrophise in the way that parents do when children are briefly out of sight in a wilderness the size of a small European country.
What I didn’t know was that Jack and Emily had already come down — via a completely different route. And in my increasingly frantic searching, I had gone down yet another route entirely. It took the best part of 45 minutes before we all found each other again, at which point everyone expressed their relief in the traditional British fashion: by being thoroughly annoyed with everyone else. I’d been worried sick about the children. Karen had been worried about me. The children thought we were all being ridiculous. Words were had.
And yet — and this is the thing about family holidays — it had been a genuinely brilliant walk. The views across the tundra to the distant mountains were spectacular in the way that only vast, empty, indifferent landscapes can be. We all slept extremely well that night.
🐺 A Grotty Day Well Spent — Science, Glaciers, and Our Very Own Ranger
On our second day in Denali, we congratulated ourselves rather smugly for having done our walk the day before, because day two turned out to be absolutely filthy — grey, wet, cold, and thoroughly Alaskan in the worst possible sense. The sort of day that reminds you why the locals don’t bother with umbrellas; they just accept their fate and get on with it.
So we did the sensible thing and headed indoors, making for the Murie Science and Learning Center. It’s named after Adolph Murie, a remarkable American naturalist, author, and wildlife biologist who, from the 1930s onwards, spent decades conducting pioneering field research in Alaska’s Arctic and sub-Arctic wilderness — studying wolves, bears, Dall sheep, and a good deal else besides at a time when most people thought wilderness management meant shooting things. He was, by all accounts, one of the founding fathers of serious ecological research in the national parks. The Centre itself is a collaboration between the National Park Service and a cluster of academic and research institutions, and it continues his work across a broad range of disciplines — wildlife biology, geography, ecology — all focused on Denali and the wider Alaskan wilderness. We spent a good half hour working our way round the exhibits before settling in for what turned out to be a genuinely excellent talk by one of the centre’s researchers on the glaciers of Denali National Park. Glaciers, it transpires, are both fascinating and deeply worrying in equal measure.
After that, we made our way back to the Park’s main Visitor Centre so Jack and Emily could add to their growing collection of Junior Ranger badges — a programme that has, frankly, done more for their education than several terms of school combined. The weather had, if anything, worsened, but we are made of stern stuff, so we joined one of the Park Rangers for a short trail around the Visitor Centre. Best of all, we were the only four on the walk — our own private Ranger, which felt like a rather decent result. We learned about the area’s history and ecology, as we always do on these ranger-led walks, and never tire of it.
We also learned that our Ranger spent his winters leading dog mushing tours deep into Denali — camping out in temperatures of around minus 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. We nodded politely and said nothing, because what exactly do you say to that?
🐕 The Sled Dogs of Denali — Possibly the Best Thing in the Park
Our last stop of the day was the sled dog kennels, tucked away within the park itself, and it turned out to be something of a highlight. Denali holds the distinction of being the only National Park in the United States to keep and operate its own working dog teams — and these aren’t ceremonial animals trotted out for the tourists. They genuinely earn their keep.
The park is open year-round, which sounds perfectly reasonable until you remember that an Alaskan winter is not something to be taken lightly. When the snow comes down and temperatures plunge to the sort of numbers that make you question every life decision you’ve ever made, motorised vehicles are simply banned from the wilderness areas. So the rangers fall back on a rather more traditional solution: dogs. Good ones, too.
The kennels themselves were noticeably better set up than those we’d visited at the Seavey operation back in Seward — more space, better conditions, and dogs that were visibly happy about the whole arrangement. They were extraordinarily sociable creatures, absolutely delighted to be fussed over, which suited us perfectly. One of the rangers gave a proper presentation on the history of the Denali dog teams — a tradition stretching back to the early days of the park’s establishment — and explained exactly how they’re still used today to patrol and manage the backcountry through the long winter months.
It was, frankly, rather wonderful.
Planning your visit to Denali National Park & Preserve
📍 About Denali National Park
Denali National Park and Preserve is one of North America’s most spectacular wilderness destinations, covering more than six million acres of rugged Alaskan interior. At the heart of the park stands Denali itself — the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet (6,190 metres) — a towering giant that dominates the surrounding landscape and draws visitors from across the globe.
The park was first established in 1917 as Mount McKinley National Park, named after President William McKinley. It was redesignated and expanded to its current scale under the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act of 1980, and the park’s name was formally changed to Denali in 1980, with the mountain itself officially renamed in 2015. The name “Denali” derives from the Koyukon Athabascan language, spoken by the indigenous people of the region, and means “The Great One” — a fitting tribute to the mountain’s immense scale and cultural significance.
The park is a place of extraordinary natural diversity. Vast stretches of boreal forest give way to open tundra, glaciers, braided rivers, and alpine ridgelines. It is also one of the finest wildlife-viewing destinations in the world.
🌍 Location
Denali National Park and Preserve sits in the interior of the state of Alaska, United States. It lies approximately 237 miles north of Anchorage and 124 miles south of Fairbanks via the George Parks Highway (Alaska Highway 3). There is a single road entrance to the park, found at Mile 237 of the Parks Highway.
Postal Address: Denali National Park & Preserve PO Box 9 Denali Park, AK 99755 United States
GPS Co-ordinates: 63.7284° N, 148.8866° W
🌐 Website
The official National Park Service website for Denali National Park and Preserve is: www.nps.gov/dena
For bus tours, campsite and shuttle reservations: www.reservedenali.com
📞 Contact Telephone Number
(907) 683-9532
A ranger is available to take calls between 9 am and 4 pm daily, except on major public holidays. If you reach the voicemail, leave a message and park staff will return your call.
For bus and campsite reservations by telephone, call toll-free (within the US): 1-800-622-7275
For international callers: (907) 272-7275
✉️ Email
🎟️ Entry Fees
The park charges an entrance fee year-round. All visitors aged 16 and over are required to purchase an entrance pass. Children aged 15 and under are admitted free of charge. The park is cashless, so visitors must pay by credit or debit card.
Standard Entrance Pass (Per Person): $15.00 USD This covers a seven-day entrance permit and applies to all visitors over the age of 16, including vehicle passengers.
Denali Annual Pass: $45.00 USD Valid for 12 months from the date of purchase and covers the pass holder and up to three additional adults.
America the Beautiful — National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass: This interagency pass is accepted at Denali and covers entrance fees at hundreds of federal recreation sites across the United States. Pricing ranges from free to $250 depending on eligibility:
- US Residents Annual Pass: $80.00
- Non-US Residents Annual Pass: $250.00
- Senior Annual Pass (US residents aged 62+): $20.00
- Senior Lifetime Pass: $80.00
- Military Annual Pass: Free
Passes can be purchased in person at the Denali Visitor Centre, the Murie Science and Learning Centre, the Denali Bus Depot, and the Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station — all of which accept credit and debit cards only. Passes are also available online at recreation.gov.
Please note that entrance fees are charged separately from campground fees, bus tour costs, and shuttle reservations. A non-refundable processing fee also applies to campground reservations.
🕐 Opening Times & Seasons
The park itself is open year-round, though visitor services and access vary significantly by season.
Summer Season (Mid-May to Mid-September) This is the primary visitor season. The Denali Visitor Centre opens in mid-May and closes the second Tuesday after Labour Day each September, with daily hours of approximately 8 am to 6 pm. The Wilderness Access Centre and Backcountry Information Centre operates from 15 May through mid-September, opening from 5 am for coffee service and bus loading, with the reservation desk open 7 am to 7 pm daily. The Visitor Transportation System — comprising narrated tour buses and non-narrated transit shuttle buses — operates throughout this period, providing access into the park beyond Mile 15, where private vehicles are restricted.
Year-Round Visitor Services The Murie Science and Learning Centre serves as the park’s winter visitor centre from mid-September to mid-May, open daily from 9 am to 4:30 pm. It offers park exhibits, ranger programmes, snowshoe loans, and backcountry permits.
Winter Access (October to Mid-February) During this period the Park Road is maintained only as far as park headquarters at Mile 3.4. Beyond this point, access is by skis, snowshoes, or dog sleds, depending on snow cover. From mid-February, the road may be ploughed to approximately Mile 12.7 on a trial basis to accommodate winter visitors.
Ranger Telephone Hours: 9 am – 4 pm daily (except major holidays)
🚗 Getting There
Most visitors travel to Denali by road along the George Parks Highway, either from Anchorage (approximately 5.5 hours by car) or from Fairbanks (approximately 2.5 hours by car). The Alaska Railroad also serves the park, with the depot located within the Denali Visitor Centre complex. The journey takes approximately 8 hours from Anchorage and 4 hours from Fairbanks by train.
There is a single park entrance at Mile 237 of the Parks Highway. Private vehicle access is restricted beyond the Savage River checkpoint at Mile 15 of the 92-mile Park Road. To venture deeper into the park, visitors must use the park’s bus system.
🐻 Wildlife & Nature
Denali is one of the finest wildlife-viewing destinations in North America. The park is home to grizzly bears, black bears, wolves, moose, caribou, Dall sheep, foxes, and a rich variety of bird species. Wildlife roam freely across the tundra and along the park road, and sightings are a highlight of any visit. Narrated bus tours offer some of the best opportunities for wildlife spotting, with experienced naturalist guides trained to identify animals at a distance. Visitors are advised to bring binoculars and a telephoto lens, as animals typically keep their distance from the road.
Beyond wildlife, the landscape itself is extraordinary — sweeping tundra, ancient taiga forest, glaciated valleys, braided rivers, and alpine ridgelines all feature within the park’s vast boundaries. On a clear day, views of the Denali summit are breathtaking, though it is worth noting that cloud cover means only around 30 per cent of summertime visitors are fortunate enough to see the full peak.
🥾 Hiking
Denali’s approach to hiking is unlike most other national parks. Whilst there are a small number of maintained trails concentrated near the park entrance, the vast majority of the park is open to off-trail wilderness exploration with no marked routes. This makes it a destination particularly suited to experienced hikers and those who relish genuine backcountry adventure.
Near the entrance area, popular maintained trails include the Horseshoe Lake Trail, the Mt. Healy Overlook Trail, and the Savage River Trail — a flat loop suitable for families and those looking for a gentler introduction to the park’s scenery. In the Savage River Area at Mile 15, the Savage Alpine Trail offers more demanding terrain with panoramic views across the tundra.
For those wishing to hike deeper into the park, the hop-on, hop-off transit shuttle buses allow visitors to disembark at any point along the road, hike at will, and reboard a later bus. River bars provide natural, open corridors for hiking in many areas. Off-trail hikers should carry a map, compass, and GPS device, travel in groups, and make sufficient noise to avoid unexpected encounters with bears and moose. Overnight backcountry trips require a permit, available from the Wilderness Access Centre.
🚌 Getting Around the Park
Private vehicles are not permitted beyond Mile 15 of the Park Road. To explore the interior, visitors must use the park’s Visitor Transportation System. Two categories of bus are available during the summer season:
Narrated Tour Buses are guided by trained naturalists and offer the most informative experience of the park. The Denali Natural History Tour covers approximately Mile 25 and lasts 4.5 to 5 hours. The Tundra Wilderness Tour is a longer, full-day option covering more remote sections of the park and offering the greatest opportunities for wildlife viewing. Both tours operate from mid-May to mid-September and require advance reservations.
Transit Shuttle Buses are non-narrated hop-on, hop-off services designed for independent hikers and campers. They are less expensive and offer the flexibility to explore sections of the park at your own pace.
Cycling is also permitted on the Park Road, and both standard bicycles and e-bikes (up to 750 Watts) are allowed. Bicycles provide a wonderful way to experience the scenery and wildlife at a slower, quieter pace.
⛺ Camping
Camping is the most immersive way to experience Denali. The park has several campgrounds located along the Park Road, ranging from the relatively accessible Riley Creek Campground near the entrance to the remote Savage River Campground at Mile 14. Reservations are strongly recommended for the summer season and can be made online at reservedenali.com or by telephone.
Backcountry camping is also available throughout the park and requires a permit from the Wilderness Access Centre. There are no lodges or hotels within the national park itself, which reflects the Park Service’s commitment to maintaining the integrity of this vast wilderness. However, a number of privately run lodges in the remote Kantishna area, at the far end of the Park Road, offer all-inclusive wilderness accommodation accessible by bus or air.
✈️ Flightseeing
For visitors wishing to see Denali’s dramatic glacier-clad slopes and the Alaska Range from the air, flightseeing tours are available from operators based near the park entrance and from Talkeetna, a small town to the south. These tours offer unparalleled aerial views of the mountain and surrounding wilderness, and are especially popular on clear days when the summit is fully visible.
🐕 Sled Dog Kennels
Denali is the only national park in the United States to maintain a working sled dog kennel. The park’s canine rangers are used for winter patrols across the backcountry, continuing a tradition dating back over a century. Free daily demonstrations at the kennels are available during the summer season, accessible via a free shuttle from the Visitor Centre.
ℹ️ Practical Tips for Visitors
Visitors should be aware that the park does not accept cash — all transactions require a credit or debit card. Weather in Denali is highly unpredictable and can change rapidly at any time of year; layering is essential and waterproof clothing is strongly recommended regardless of the season. Insect repellent is advisable during the summer months when mosquitoes and midges can be prevalent. All visitors should familiarise themselves with bear safety guidelines before entering the park, and those venturing into the backcountry are strongly advised to carry bear spray. Leave No Trace principles apply throughout the park — pack out all waste and leave the wilderness as you find it.
Best time to visit Denali
🌱 Spring (April – May)
Spring arrives tentatively in Denali, with April still locked under deep snow and ice. The park road remains closed beyond Mile 3 until ploughing begins, typically in mid-March, with access extending gradually as conditions allow. By May — the park’s driest month — the tundra begins to stir. Grizzly and black bears emerge from hibernation, curious and hungry. It is birthing season, and with luck you may spot wolf pups, Dall sheep lambs, and caribou calves taking their first wobbling steps. Purple pasqueflowers and moss campion push through the thaw, migratory birds return, and the air smells of wet earth and pine sap. Visitor numbers remain low, meaning peaceful trails and better value on accommodation. Temperatures swing unpredictably between rain and snow, so flexibility is essential. The main Denali Visitor Centre opens on 15 May, and bus services typically begin from around 20 May.
What to pack: Waterproof hiking boots, insulated waterproof jacket, thermal base layers, fleece mid-layer, warm hat and gloves, gaiters, trekking poles, sunscreen (UV is strong even in cold weather), binoculars, insect repellent (mosquitoes arrive by mid-May), camera with telephoto lens.
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Summer is the peak season and the most popular time to visit Denali, running from early June through to mid-August. June bursts with energy: snow still clings to the high peaks while the valley floor turns green almost overnight. With up to 22 hours of functional daylight around the summer solstice, days feel endless. Wildlife is highly active — bears, moose, caribou, Dall sheep, and wolves roam freely, and baby animals are plentiful in early June. July is the warmest month, with temperatures averaging 14–18°C and occasional highs reaching 20°C. Wildflowers blanket the tundra and the classic postcard view of Alaska is at its finest. July and August are also the wettest months, so rain gear is non-negotiable. By August, the summer begins to soften: berries ripen, the first autumnal hints appear on the tundra, and mosquitoes begin to dwindle. Bears gorge on blueberries and cloudberries, making sightings frequent. Accommodation, bus tours, and activities must be booked well in advance for summer visits. Only around 30 per cent of summer visitors actually see the summit of Denali due to cloud cover.
What to pack: Lightweight waterproof jacket, moisture-wicking layers, sturdy hiking boots, sun hat, sunscreen (high SPF), insect repellent and head net, light gloves for evenings, trekking poles, bear spray, water filter or purification tablets, binoculars and telephoto lens, camp snacks.
🍂 Autumn (September – October)
Early September is one of the most visually spectacular times to visit Denali. The tundra erupts in brilliant shades of gold, amber, red, and rose as the landscape transforms before your eyes. Wildlife activity peaks: bull moose clash antlers during the rut, bears enter hyperphagia and forage frantically for calories, and migrating birds fill the sky. Visitor numbers drop sharply from mid-September, when bus services end and most lodges, restaurants, and outfitters close. After the buses stop running, private vehicles may drive further along the park road than in summer. Evenings grow chilly and short, but the return of true darkness means the northern lights (aurora borealis) begin to appear on clear nights from September onwards. Snow may dust the peaks as early as late August. By October, the park retreats into winter and most services are shuttered. Autumn is ideal for photographers, solitude seekers, and those hoping to witness the aurora without enduring the full severity of winter.
What to pack: Warm waterproof jacket, insulated mid-layer, thermal base layers, warm hat, gloves, and buff, sturdy waterproof boots, trekking poles, headlamp or torch, bear spray, binoculars, camera for aurora and wildlife photography, snacks and thermos.
❄️ Winter (November – March)
Winter in Denali is extreme and uncompromising. Temperatures can plunge to -40°C, daylight shrinks to as little as five and a half hours in December, and the park road is closed beyond Mile 3. Almost all commercial services — lodges, restaurants, tour operators, and shuttle buses — are shuttered. This is not a season for casual visitors; it demands careful advance planning and a taste for raw adventure. For those willing, the rewards are extraordinary: ink-black skies lit up by the aurora borealis, frozen lakes and snow-draped peaks, and a profound silence that is impossible to find in summer. Activities include dog sledding, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking, and winter photography. March offers a slightly gentler entry into the winter experience, with lengthening days and a pale golden light on the ridgelines. The Murie Science and Learning Centre serves as the winter visitor centre.
What to pack: Expedition-grade down jacket, wind-proof outer shell, heavyweight thermal base layers, insulated waterproof trousers, balaclava, expedition-rated hat and mittens, neck gaiter, insulated waterproof boots rated to -40°C, hand and foot warmers, headlamp with spare batteries, crampons or microspikes, trekking poles, thermos, high-calorie emergency snacks.
📊 Seasonal Summary
🏆 Overall Best Time to Visit
For the majority of visitors, late June to mid-August offers the most complete and accessible Denali experience. The park’s full range of services is operational, wildlife is plentiful and active, the weather — while unpredictable — is at its mildest, and the extraordinary phenomenon of the midnight sun transforms every day into something magical. That said, early September deserves special mention as a hidden gem: the autumn colour is among the most stunning of any national park in the United States, crowds thin considerably, prices drop, and the returning darkness brings with it the first chances to see the northern lights. For adventurous travellers who can tolerate the cold and limited services, a March or early spring visit delivers exceptional wildlife viewing against a snow-covered backdrop with a sense of quiet grandeur that summer simply cannot offer. Whichever season you choose, book accommodation and bus tours early — this is a park that rewards advance planning above all else.
Where to stay near Denali
1. Denali Primrose B&B
Denali Primrose Bed & Breakfast sits on one and a half wooded acres in Healy, Alaska, around ten minutes from the entrance to Denali National Park. Run by host Terry, it operates as a small, home-style property with a straightforward continental breakfast included — think fresh fruit, eggs, cheese, pastries and hot drinks available throughout the day. Rooms are clean and comfortable, with free Wi-Fi, private bathrooms and flat-screen TVs. Outside there is a garden, terrace and picnic area, and free parking is on site. The location is quiet and reasonably secluded, though a car is advisable as dining options nearby are limited. Wildlife occasionally passes through the grounds. Terry consistently draws praise from guests for being welcoming and knowledgeable without being intrusive. The property scores highly on the main booking platforms and suits travellers using Healy as a base for exploring the national park. The 49th State Brewing Company is also close by.
McKinley Park is 11 miles from Denali Primrose B&B.
2. McKinley Creekside Cabins
3. Denali Lakeview Inn
Denali Lakeview Inn sits on the shore of Otto Lake near Healy, Alaska, about 15 minutes north of Denali National Park. It’s a family-owned property with 21 individually decorated rooms spread across three floors, most with a balcony or deck and views across the lake towards Mount Healy and Mount Dora. Rooms are well equipped, many with kitchenettes or full kitchens, and beds are Sealy or Tempur-Pedic. A complimentary continental breakfast is included. Moose are regularly spotted on the grounds, and on clear winter nights the northern lights are visible from the property. Guests have access to kayaks, bikes, and fishing equipment, and there is cross-country skiing on site. The surrounding area offers hiking, biking, and jeep tours. It’s a practical, comfortable base for visiting Denali, with the added benefit of being away from the busier commercial strip closer to the park entrance.
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