Kabah, is an impressive Maya archaeological zone set at the foot of the Puuc Hills. The site is the second largest ruin site in the area after Uxmal, and is one of a series of Maya ruins that can be found in the general area.
Mexico: Yucatán – Mérida, a guide to visiting
About Mérida
Mérida, city, capital of Yucatán estado (state), southeastern Mexico. It lies near the northwestern tip of the Yucatán Peninsula, about 20 miles (30 km) south of Progreso, its port on the Gulf of Mexico. In 1542 Francisco de Montejo gave the name Mérida to the captured Mayan city T’ho (Tihoo). An early base for Spanish efforts to conquer the Maya, it subsequently became an administrative and commercial centre for the Yucatán region. In the 19th century its economy was based on the processing and export of locally grown henequen, a fibrous plant from which twine and rope are produced. By the early 20th century Mérida became one of Mexico’s most important commercial cities, but the henequen trade declined precipitously after World War II. Many former henequen plantations now grow citrus fruits (notably limes and lemons) and other crops.
The city is a base for trips to several Mayan sites, including Chichén Itzá, Kabah, Mayapán, and Uxmal. Many colonial-era buildings, including the Casa de Montejo (1549) and the cathedral (begun in 1561), are also tourist attractions, as are the city’s henequen-era mansions. Beach activities and sportfishing are offered at Progreso and other nearby coastal towns north of Mérida. The city is the site of the Autonomous University of Yucatán (1922). The Regional Museum of Anthropology (1920) exhibits Olmec and Mayan artefacts.
CONTENTS
1. Things to do
– Visit the Cathedral of Mérida
– Visit the Iglesia de la Tercera Orden de Jesús
– Plaza Grande
– Visit the Museum of Contemporary Art
– Pasejo de Montejo
– Parque de la Plancha
– Calle 47 – Gastronomic corridor
– Uxmal Mayan site
– Kabah Mayan site
2. Getting to and around Mérida
3. The best time to visit
4. Where to stay
Things to do
Cathedral of Mérida
The Cathedral of San Ildefonso was the first cathedral built in Latin America and is the oldest in Mexico. On November 16, 1561, Pope Pius IV ordered its construction at the request of King Philip II of Spain to replace the simple chapel that stood on the site. 37 years later it was largely complete, but over the years it has seen several enhancements. The front of the cathedral is in the Renaissance style, with two Moorish-type towers – it is a very simple design, which I thought was pleasing to the eye!
The inside of the cathedral, like the outside of the building, was simply decorated but it had a lovely, vaulted roof supported by sturdy-looking pillars. It didn’t look like this was a building that was going anywhere soon – although I don’t think this area suffers from the earthquakes that blight other areas of Mexico.
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden de Jesús
The Iglesia de la Tercera Orden de Jesús is more commonly known as the Iglesia de Jesus (Church of Jesus). It is one of Mérida’s oldest buildings and the first Jesuit church in the Yucatán. It was built in 1618 from the limestone blocks of a dismantled Maya temple, and faint outlines of ancient carvings are still visible on the west wall. The inside of the church is not as ornate as many of the churches we have visited in Mexico. The church used to be part of a much larger complex of buildings, including a convent, but these have disappeared over the years.
It is a favourite place for society weddings due to its antiquity, the church interior is not ornate.
The Plaza Grande
One of the nicest plazas in Mexico, huge laurel trees shade the park’s benches and wide sidewalks. It was the religious and social center of ancient T’ho; under the Spanish it was the Plaza de Armas, the parade ground, laid out by Francisco de Montejo (the Younger).
A ceremony is held daily marking the raising and lowering of the Mexican flag, there’s a crafts market on Sunday, and dance or live music nearly every night.
The Museum of Contemporary Art
In a passageway that runs next to the cathedral, called the Pasaje de La Revolución is the entrance to the contemporary art museum.
The museum was inside one of Merida’s grand old colonial buildings, the Ateneo Peninsular. On the ground floor, there was a large open area, in what used to be a courtyard, filled with larger art installations which are always a big favourite of mine! Most of the galleries were up on the second floor, mostly filled with the works of contemporary Mexican artists. It was a very nice space; the rooms were well-lit and airy.
Paseo de Montejo
Livraria Lello & Irmão, commonly known in English as the Lello Bookshop, rated one of the top bookshops in the world. It is not just the books that draw people here it is the Art Nouveau and Art Deco designs throughout the store. One of the main features of the store is the stairs and bridges linking parts of the store together. Rumour has it that these are what inspired J K Rowling’s staircases in Hogwarts. As well as the stairs there is an Art Deco stained-glass ceiling.
It is not the sort of store you just walk in, hence the long line outside. You need to buy a ticket voucher for 8€ to enter the store. The voucher can be used against the purchase price of a book. Clever really.
Parque de la Plancha
The park was interesting to look around, it had all the usual features, but it was also an example of urban redevelopment. This used to be the old railway station and stockyards. The original railway station was still there but is now a public space and arts education centre. There is also a railway museum. Sadly, being a Sunday, everything seemed to be closed so I had to settle for wandering through the park. There was some of the original rolling stock, some of which had been converted into cafes, which were also closed. A bit odd as it was a weekend!
Calle 47
Calle 47 in Mérida’s Centro has been transformed over time. It is now waiting to officially become a gastronomic corridor that will connect Paseo de Montejo with the Gran Parque La Plancha.
Uxmal Mayan Site
No one knows when the Maya first settled in Uxmal. A legend tells of a magician-dwarf who built the Pyramid of the Magician overnight, but hard evidence from the earliest temple suggests construction began around the 6th century CE and continued expanding the city thereafter.
Kabah Mayan Site
Kabah is an impressive Maya archaeological zone set at the foot of the Puuc Hills. The site is the second largest ruin site in the area after Uxmal, and is one of a series of Maya ruins that can be found in the general area.
Getting to Mérida
Flying
You can fly nonstop into Mérida International Airport (MID) from Miami International Airport (MIA) and Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH). Meanwhile, flights with one connection are available from Los Angeles, New York City and San Francisco. In contrast, some vacationers choose to fly into Cancun and then take a luxury bus or rent a car to drive to Mérida.
Car
The roads in Yucatán and surrounding states are pretty good – at least the main roads. We have driven in Mexico on many occasions and have found it to be safe, although there are places to avoid. There are many car rental companies operating in Mexico, both International and local brands. Cars can be rented at airports, large hotels and city offices.
Train
No train services are operating in Yucatán.
Bus
ADO operates a city to city bus networks across Mexico, and has different levels of service.
Getting Around Merida
The best way to get around Mérida is either on foot or by car (whether that’s your own car, an Uber or a taxi). English speakers will likely find it easiest to travel via Uber when they aren’t walking, as they won’t have to translate their destination to a taxi driver or figure out where they’re going with Spanish road signs. Alternatively, visitors are welcome to use local buses, though they are mainly used by locals and therefore may be confusing for vacationers who haven’t done some research ahead of time.
The best time to visit Mérida
Merida, a city positioned in Mexico, falls under the Aw Köppen climate classification featuring a tropical wet and dry or savanna climate. Key climatological data expresses that the city experiences a decent amount of sunshine throughout the year with an average of 9.6 hours daily. Weather patterns reveal that fluctuations in temperature are relatively minimal while humidity levels remain fairly consistent, hovering between 63% to 78% relative humidity from January to December.
The best time to visit Mérida
Planning a visit to Merida warrants the consideration of several climate factors. For the relatively lower humidity levels coupled with pleasant temperatures, the ideal timeframe for visiting falls between November and April. The average rainfall during these months is quite low, enhancing the outdoor experience for tourists. The city also experiences longer daylight during these months, ranging from 10.9 to 13.4 hours, allowing ample time for sightseeing and outdoor activities.
The worst time to visit Mérida
Merida sees its heaviest rainfall and relatively higher humidity levels between May and October. These months can pose challenges for those planning outdoor activities and sightseeing due to the unpredictability of precipitation. Additionally, temperatures tend to be warmer during this period thus it might be uncomfortable for some visitors.
Where to stay in Mérida
1. Luxury – Hotel Boutique La Mision De Fray Diego
This Merida hotel is a XVII century home transformed into a boutique hotel, Hotel La Mision de Fray Diego. Only one block from the city’s historic center and commercial zone. The hotel offers an on-site restaurant serving regional and Spanish cuisine, and an outdoor swimming pool.
La Misión de Fray Diego offers an authentic experience by immersing its guests between historical episodes throughout their stay.
The hotel also has its own mini-museum.
Teatro Merida (Merida Theater) and the city’s main square are within 2 blocks of the La Mision de Fray Diego Hotel.
2. Mid-Range – Hotel Santa Ana
Located in Mérida’s town centre and offering an outdoor pool, Hotel Santa Ana features free Wi-Fi access and has a privileged location, only 656 feet from popular Paseo Montejo Avenue.
The rooms here will provide you with cable TV, air conditioning and cable channels. Featuring a shower, private bathrooms also come with free toiletries and towels. They also include a telephone line and fans.
Santa Ana Market is 328 feet from Hotel Santa Ana, and guests will be able to find several restaurants and bars within 820 feet.
3. Budget – Hostal Barrio Vivo
Ideally set in Mérida, Hostal Barrio Vivo has air-conditioned rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a garden. Featuring a shared kitchen, this property also provides guests with a grill. A terrace, an in-house bar and a shared lounge are available.
At the hostel, the rooms include a private bathroom and bed linen.
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