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Mexico: Yucatán – Kabah Archaeological Site

​Kabah, "Lord of the strong/powerful Hand" in Yucatec Maya, is an impressive Maya archaeological zone set at the foot of the Puuc Hills. The site is the second largest ruin site in the area after Uxmal.

After visiting the Uxmal archaeological site we set off to visit Kabah, which was about 23km away.

Kabah, “Lord of the strong/powerful Hand” in Yucatec Maya, is an impressive Maya archaeological zone set at the foot of the Puuc Hills. It is located along both sides of Highway 261 along the “Puuc Route” and is the second largest ruin site in the area after Uxmal. It is one of a series of Maya ruins that can be found in the general area. The architectural style is named after the arid hill country in which they are located. 

Some of the history of Kabah
The site was likely inhabited from the middle of the 3rd century BCE although most of the buildings that can be seen today date from between the 7th and 11th centuries CE. Kabah likely reached its ‘golden period’ around the end of the 9th century.

The ruins extend either side of the main highway although only a few of the buildings are open to the public there are many more still overgrown and covered with the forest including a large pyramid, although excavation work is under-way to carry out archaeological excavations and clear and restore more of the buildings.

The site consists of several palaces, low stone buildings, and step-pyramid temples and contains many sculpted panels, mostly depicting the site’s rulers and scenes of warfare. 

Views of the main structures of Kabah - Kodz Poop and The Palace - Yucatan, Mexico
Views of the main structures of Kabah - Kodz Poop and The Palace

Kodz Poop
The most famous structure at Kabah is the Kodz Poop which means “rolled-up matting” also known as the “Temple of the Masks”. This stands on a low platform and has a façade decorated with 250 stone masks of Chaac, the long-nosed rain god. The temple is 46 metres long and contains 10 chambers arranged in two tiers of five built behind each other. On the east façade are two well-preserved life-size stone sculptured figures.

Kodz Poop at Kabah archaeological park - Yucatan, Mexico
Kodz Poop at Kabah archaeological park
Some examples of Puuc carvings at Kabah - Kabah archaeological park, Yucatan, Mexico
Some examples of Puuc carvings at Kabah
Entrances to some of the chambers of Kodz Poop - Kabah archaeological zone, Yucatan, Mexico
Entrances to some of the chambers of Kodz Poop
Kodz Poop at Kabah archaeological site in Yucatan, Mexico
These two figures are outstanding examples of Puuc carvings - Kabah, Yucatan, Mexico
These two figures are outstanding examples of Puuc carvings
Carvings on the entrance to the courtyards of Kodz Poop - Kabah archaeological site, Yucatan, Mexico
Carvings on the entrance to the courtyards of Kodz Poop
A statue of Chaac on the side of Kodz Poop - Kabah archaeological zone, Yucatan, Mexico
A statue of Chaac on the side of Kodz Poop

The Great Palace
Located in the centre of the city is the Great Palace, one of the best-preserved buildings on the site. Set on two levels it displays an elegant roof comb over part of the building. The decoration is simple with three columns with a capitol shaped like a pedestal.

A view of the Grand Palace from Kodz Poop - Kabah arcaeological zone, Yucatan, Mexico
A view of the Grand Palace from Kodz Poop
The Grand Palace - Kabah archaelogical zone, Yucatan, Mexico
The Grand Palace
The Grand Palace - Kabah archaelogical zone, Yucatan, Mexico

The Great Pyramid
The west side of the highway features a cluster of plaza groups. Most of these are currently closed to visitors except the Arch, and the newly restored Quadrangle/Yax Kan Group.

Pyramid Complex is mostly unrestored, and was built atop a large, low platform, here called the Great Pyramid Plaza, and houses several structures. Unfortunately, the construction of Highway 261 sliced through the northeast corner of this plaza destroying that portion.

The Great Pyramid, Structure is the dominant structure of this group and is set on the north side of the platform plaza. It has several tiers and has sweeping, curved corners. The pyramid base measures around 43 metres (141 feet) by 55 metres (180 feet), and contains a four-chamber temple on its summit accessed by a plaza-facing stairway. The height is estimated to be 38 metres (125 feet)

The issue was lack of water!
There are numerous masks of Chaac throughout the site due to his importance as there are no cenotes (natural sinkholes containing water) in this area, which placed a greater importance on rain. Reservoirs were constructed to collect rainwater and they also had a drainage system of canals to help irrigate the land. However, by the 11th century, Kabah and its surrounding sites had been abandoned, with drought being considered the main reason for its decline.

In summary

  • Visiting Kabah should be combined with a trip to Uxmal
  • It is a much smaller and quieter site than Uxmal and takes less than an hour to explore
  • Kabah has some excellent examples of Puuc style architecture and carvings
  • The Puuc route Mayan sites were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1966.

Planning your visit to Kabah

Bus (to Uxmal)
To get to Uxmal by bus, you need to go to the TAME terminal – Calle 69 between Calle 68 and Calle 70.

There are buses at 6 am, 9 am, and 2 pm. The ticket costs around 100 pesos and the trip takes 1h30-2h. The bus will drop you off on the road and you have to walk about a quarter mile to the site.

To get back, wait for the bus at the same spot. It should come around 15:00-15:30.
If the bus doesn’t show up (yes, it can happen!), you can take a colectivo to Muna, and then another one to Mérida. Sometimes, there are also direct colectivos from Uxmal to Mérida.

Taxi
From Uxmal to Kabah by taxi: from Uxmal, you can hire a taxi that includes waiting at the site and returning to Uxmal, from where you can take the bus back to Merida.

Tours
Tours to Kabah usually are combined with visits to Uxmal and operate from Merida and cities in adjoining States – Campeche and Quintana Roo.

Drive

Kabah is situated around 62 miles (100 kilometers) south of Mérida, near the Uxmal and Labná ruins, and the easiest way to reach it is by private vehicle. Follow Highway 261 and then look for Kabah signposts. There is parking nearby.


The best time to visit Kabah

The best time to visit Merida
Planning a visit to Merida warrants the consideration of several climate factors. For the relatively lower humidity levels coupled with pleasant temperatures, the ideal timeframe for visiting falls between November and April. The average rainfall during these months is quite low, enhancing the outdoor experience for tourists. The city also experiences longer daylight during these months, ranging from 10.9 to 13.4 hours, allowing ample time for sightseeing and outdoor activities.

The worst time to visit Merida
Merida sees its heaviest rainfall and relatively higher humidity levels between May and October. These months can pose challenges for those planning outdoor activities and sightseeing due to unpredictability of precipitation. Additionally, temperatures tend to be warmer during this period thus it might be uncomfortable for some visitors.


Where to stay in Merida

1. Luxury – Casa Azul Monumento Historico

Set in a 19th-century listed building, Casa Azul Monumento Histórico is 2 blocks from Montejo Avenue. This boutique hotel offers an outdoor pool, restaurant and luxurious suites with free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TV.

Each elegant air-conditioned suite is individually decorated with antique furniture and original artworks. All suites include a safe, minibar and iPod dock. The stylish bathrooms offer toiletries, slippers and bathrobes.

2. Mid-Range – Hotel La Piazzetta

Offering free WiFi, this Mérida Hotel La Piazzetta is located on Mejorada square and 230 metres from Museo De la Canción Yucateca and just a few blocks from the Cathedral, market and Paseo Montejo.

All rooms have air conditioning, no TV in room, a fan and marble bathrooms with Italian-style showers with no door and separate WC. WiFi access is available free of charge in all the property.

3. Budget – Art 57 Hotel

Hotel Art57 is located in central Merida, and offers free Wi-Fi in all areas, outdoor pool and a tour desk to help guests with information about this city.

The rooms at the Art57 feature air conditioning, private bathroom with shower, free toiletries, flat-screen TV with cable channels.

Art57 is also an art gallery that exhibits the art work from local and other Mexican artists.

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