Mexico: Chiapas – Palenque Archaeological Site
The archaeological site of Palenque in the state of Chiapas is one of the most outstanding Classic period sites of the Maya area, known for its exceptional and well conserved architectural and sculptural remains.
This morning, I had arranged with the hotel to have a driver take me out to the Palenque archaeological site which is a few kilometres outside of the town. It was too far to walk from the hotel, especially given the temperature and humidity here. I also wanted to get back in time to grab a shower and a bite to eat before catching the 13:30 bus back to Villahermosa.
Our first stop was the ticket office, which surprisingly is at least two kilometres from the entrance to the ruins. These are set inside a larger park, which you could explore, but no one checks your tickets to wander in the jungle. Anyway, my driver leapt out, bought the tickets, and drove me the rest of the way to the gate. He dropped me off (there is not much of a parking lot), and we agreed to meet back here in two and a half hours.
It was about 8:30 am and I had beaten most of the tour groups here, especially the ones travelling from towns such as San Cristobal de las Casas and Merida. Nice and quiet.
Some of the history of Palenque.
Located in the foothills of the Chiapas altiplano of modern Mexico, Palenque was an important Maya city which was established around 226 BCE and flourished between 600 and 750 CE. It is a medium-sized site, smaller than Tikal, Chichen Itza, or Copán. The name Palenque derives from the Spanish, meaning ‘fortified place’, but the original Maya name, we now know, was Lakamha (“Big Water or Big Waters”). Situated where the highland and coastal plains join, the site prospered as an inland trade centre which allowed Palenque to control a large territory and form beneficial alliances with other powerful cities such as Tikal, Pomoná, and Tortuguero.
In the mid-8th century CE hostilities broke out with Toniná and Palenque, as other contemporary Classic Maya cities, were abandoned c. 800 CE. After, its decline, it was overgrown by the jungle of cedar, mahogany, and sapodilla trees, but has since been excavated and restored. By 2005, the discovered area covered up to 2.5 km2 (1sq mi), but it is estimated that less than 10% of the total area of the city is explored, leaving more than a thousand structures still covered by jungle.
Palenque is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and contains some of the finest architecture, sculpture, roof comb and bas-relief carvings that the Mayas produced. Much of the history of Palenque has been reconstructed from reading the hieroglyphic inscriptions on the many monuments. The most famous ruler of Palenque was K’inich Janaab Pakal, or Pacal the Great, whose tomb has been found and excavated in the Temple of the Inscriptions.
Temple of the Skulls
Within two minutes of entering the park, I was standing among the first group of buildings.
The first of these is Temple XII, known as the Temple of the Skulls, The building name is based on a section of stucco found at the base of one of its pillars, which can’t be seen from below. It depicts what is believed to be a rabbit skull.
Surveys and excavations have shown that two other vaulted structures can be found under the temple of the skulls, one on top of the other. As with other Maya constructions, the temple of the skulls was built on top of these.
A grave within one of the structures below has been exhumed, where a large hoard of jade pieces was uncovered.
Temple XIII
Next to the Temple of the Skulls is Temple XIII. This is famous for containing the Tomb of the Red Queen, a burial chamber containing the remains of a noblewoman, perhaps Lady Ix Tz’akbu Ajaw, and two servants, which dates from 600 CE to 700 CE. The tomb was discovered in 1994 by the Mexican archaeologist Fanny Lopez Jimenez and takes its popular name from the fact that the remains of the noblewoman and the objects in the sarcophagus were covered with bright red cinnabar powder when the tomb was discovered.
Today, the tomb is open to the public, although when you do go inside there is not much to see.
The Temple of the Inscriptions
Right next to Temple XIII is the largest and most impressive temple in Palenque, the Temple of the Inscriptions. In Mayan it is known as Bʼolon Yej Teʼ Naah meaning “House of the Nine Sharpened Spears.” It was built as the funerary monument for K’inich Janaab’ Pakal, the ruler of Palenque in the 7th century, whose reign over the polity lasted almost 70 years.
Construction of this monument commenced in the last decade of his life and was completed by his son and successor K’inich Kan B’alam II. The name “Temple of Inscriptions” was coined after the discovery of well-preserved hieroglyphics on the panels of the piers on the temple.
To preserve this temple visitors are not allowed to climb on the steps of the pyramid.
The Palace
Completing this group of buildings and at a right angle to the Temple of the inscriptions is the Palace. This is one of the finest examples of Mayan architecture found anywhere in Mesoamerica. It is vast. Although archaeological evidence suggests that the Palace was the royal residence of Palenque’s rulers beginning in the Early Classic period (250-–600 CE), the Palace’s visible buildings all date to the Late Classic (600–800/900 CE), the period of its most famous king Pakal the Great and his sons. Relief carvings in stucco and Maya texts suggest that the Palace was the administrative heart of the city as well as an aristocratic residence.
The Palace measures 97 metres by 73 metres with a height of 10 metres. There are several buildings within the palace complex which are built around interconnected internal courtyards.
The most outstanding feature of the Palace is the 25-metre, four-storey Observation Tower.
The Palace was used as a royal residence and contained all that its elite rulers required. From their living quarters, court, and entertainment areas, through to their ceremonial requirements. It also housed their servants, as well as guest quarters for visiting nobles. Inside there are several lavatories, baths, and saunas. The water supply came from a detailed aqueduct system, whereby water was diverted from the Otulum River under the Palace.
Sadly, when I visited the Palace was undergoing restoration so I could not go inside, so I just had to admire it from the outside.
The Temple of the Sun
From the Palace, I took a bridge over the Otulum River and followed the trail to the next group of buildings known as the Cross Group. There are three temples here based around a plaza: The Temple of the Sun, the Temple of the Cross, and the Temple of the Foliated Cross.
These temples were built by K’an Bahlam II, upon his succession to the throne after his father Pakal the Great. Interestingly, there are tablets within each of the Cross Group buildings which depict various scenes of Bahlam’s life. The three temples were constructed to honour Palenque’s three deities or gods, known simply as G1, G2 and G3.
The smallest of the temples is the Temple of the Sun. You can climb the steps to the top of the pyramid. The steps are steep with high risers, so I was careful going up and down! At the top of the steps is a chamber that has a detailed carved stucco panel on the back wall. The central image of this panel is a shield, with the image of G3 and two crossed spears, sitting on top of an altar.
The Temple of the Foliated Cross
During my visit in 2024 the Temple of the Foliated Cross was under renovation so I was unable to visit.
The Temple of the Cross
Climbing the Temple of the Sun was good practice for ascending the Temple of the Cross, the largest of the pyramids of this group. The climb is worth it as the top pier of the temple is one of the best viewpoints in Palenque ruins, with amazing views over the Temple of the Sun and across to the Palace.
One of the main tablets found within the Temple of the Cross shows another scene from Bahlam’s life. At the centre is a world tree and above a quetzal bird, on the right is Bahlam, and to the left is Pakal. This is said to represent Bahlam receiving his father’s blessing from the underworld, to ascend to the throne.
The Ball Court
Descending from the Temple of the Cross I continued along the trail towards what is known as the Temple of the Count and the North Group.
Along the way, I passed through the Ball Court. The Ball Court is one of the oldest sites in the Palenque ruins, dating back to around AD 500. It’s smaller than most other Maya ruins, that we have personally visited. In terms of size, it’s only 22 metres in length.
The North Group
The North Group is a set of five conjoined buildings of various heights and sizes with their entrances facing south. These buildings were built during different periods.
On the western side of these buildings is the free-standing, five-tiered pyramid, the Temple of the Count. This temple is named after Jean-Frédéric Maximilien de Waldeck. He was a French antiquarian, cartographer, artist and explorer. He was a man of talent and accomplishment, but his love of self-promotion and refusal to let the truth get in the way of a good story leave some aspects of his life in mystery.
At various times Waldeck said that he was born in Paris, Prague, or Vienna, and at other times claimed to be a German, Austrian or British citizen. He often claimed the title of count and occasionally that of duke or baron, but these cannot be verified
.
In 1832 Waldeck set up camp in Palenque, where he spent nearly two years living inside this temple. He was commissioned to depict images from the Mesoamerican sites being excavated in Mexico, including Palenque and Uxmal. Unfortunately, he decided to embellish these images with artefacts from other parts of the world, such as Ancient Egypt, and Palenque’s case elephants from Asia. When these images were published with the texts it falsely conflated Mesoamerica with the other ancient cultures.
Inside the Temple of the Count, there was a tomb within the temple. It is unknown who this belonged to and was unfortunately ransacked long before it was found by archaeologists.
The cascades and residential areas
I had covered most of the main areas of Palenque, but there were more excavations along trails leading down the hill through the woods. These were mainly residential areas, but I thought I would go and look anyway.
The path follows the Otulum stream as it makes its way down the valley. It zig-zags its way through the trees, providing a welcome shade from the hot sun. It was a very pretty walk, and largely free of other visitors. Which I loved! Sadly, you are not allowed to take a dip in the waterfalls or the stream.
Here on the trail, hidden among the trees are several groups of ruins of residential buildings known as Complex B, Complex I & II and Complex of the Bats.
I really enjoyed walking among these ruins. But it did mean I had to climb a trail back upward, which was hard work on a hot day.
The path eventually brought me back up to the courtyard outside the North Group, from where I made my way back to the entrance.
In summary
- The archaeological site of Palenque is worth the visit but it is a bit off the beaten trail
- It took me about two hours to explore without a guide, including a few stops.
- Make sure your transport does not leave you stranded at the ticket office!
Planning your visit to Palenque
Getting to Palenque (Town)
The closest airport to Palenque is Villahermosa in neighbouring Tabasco state. From there, it’s about a two-hour drive or 2.5 hours by bus to Palenque.
By Bus
ADO run several buses a day to Palenque from Villahermosa. These take about 90 minutes and arrive at the ADO bus station in the centre of Palenque town.
From Tuxtla, OCC (a partner company of ADO) run a few buses each day to Palenque, including overnight buses. These take about 7 hours.
Getting from Cancun to Palenque by bus takes 13 to 14 hours, so it’s not an easy trip. You can take an overnight bus and travel the full distance in one go.
From Merida to Palenque is about 9 hours by bus. ADO run both a day and a night bus
Tours
There are tours that operate from the town of Palenque itself or from other towns in Chiapas; San Cristobal de las Casas or Tuxtla Guitierrez or in adjoining States – Campeche or Villahermosa, Tabasco.
You can drive to the Palenque ruins yourself but you have to be careful. The indigenous tribes in the area frequently stop vehicles to extort money from the drivers and passengers. This is particularly true along some of the smaller roads running through the State of Chiapas. For this reason, we would recommend travelling on public transport or with a tour.
Getting to Palenque Archaeological Zone
By taxi
From Palenque town you can take a taxi to the archaeological zone, which is a few kilometres outside of the town. The taxi will most likely drop you off at the ticket office, which is about one and a half kilometres from the main entrance to the ruins. Getting a taxi back might also be problematic!
We don’t recommend using a taxi.
By collectivo
The cheapest way of getting to the Palenque Archaeological Zone is by collective. You can find these by the ADO bus station and they will be signed ‘Ruinas”. They will take you to the ticket office and then on to the ruins entrance. On the way back you will find collectivos by the museum.
There are tours operating from Palenque town. You can find operators at the ADO bus station or in offices around the hotel zone. You can also arrange tours through the local hotel receptions.
Private transfer
Probably the most expensive mode of getting to the ruins is via private transfer. You can arrange this through most of the hotels. A driver will collect you from your hotel, take you to pick up your tickets and drop you at the entrance to the ruins. They will arrange a time to pick you up.
The best time to visit Palenque
Palenque enjoys a tropical monsoon climate. The yearly average maximum temperature in Palenque is 32°C (ranging from 27°C in January to 37°C in April). Annual rainfall is 2673mm, with a minimum of 106mm in February and a maximum of 414mm in June.
- Between January and April, the climate is good. The temperature rises to 37°C and you can expect to have 121mm of rainfall/month during this period.
- From may to november the climate is not good, but still OK. The record temperature this month is 34°C and it rains about 35% of the time in November.
- In the month of December, the climate is good. The temperature rises to 28°C.
Where to stay in Palenque
1. Luxury – Hotel Boutique Quinta Chanabnal
Set in tropical gardens, Hotel Boutique Quinta Chanabnal is 3.1 mi from Palenque Archaeological Site. Resembling a Mayan palace, it offers outdoor pools with waterfalls, free Wi-Fi and spa.
Air-conditioned suites feature flat-screen cable TV and a fan. Each has a work desk and mini-bar with free soft drinks, beer and water. There is a balcony with garden views. The private bathroom comes with a hairdryer, slippers and toiletries.
2. Mid-Range -Hotel Museo Xibalba
Xibalba offers bright rooms with free Wi-Fi and cable TV, set around a central courtyard with characteristic Mayan sculptures. Located in central Palenque, it is 5 mi from Palenque Archaeological Zone.
Xibalba Hotel’s spacious rooms have simple, traditional-style décor. Each room comes with a ceiling fan and 2 bottles of water. The private bathroom includes toiletries and a hairdryer.
Mexican cuisine is served in the Don Carlos restaurant, located in the lobby. There is also a bar service, offering drinks and cocktails.
3. Budget – Posada Aguila Real
Set in a bright town house a 5-minute walk from Palenque’s Central Park, Posada Aguila Real offers a 24-hour reception and simple rooms with private bathrooms. The Palenque Archaeological site is a 10-minute drive away.
Each air-conditioned room at Posada Aguila Real has a private bathroom with hot water and free toiletries. All rooms have a TV, while free Wi-Fi is available in public areas.