Mexico: San Jose del Cabo

Our three-day stop in San José del Cabo marked the final chapter of our journey through Baja California Sur. After the raw and windy coastlines of Magdalena Bay, this small colonial town offered a change of pace. Though often overshadowed by its brasher neighbour Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo has a quieter and more traditional character, shaped by centuries of history and an evolving local arts scene.

We arrived via road in the late afternoon, following a long drive south from San Carlos. The transition was quite stark—dry coastal flats gave way to more manicured roads, resort signage, and eventually the low hum of town life. Our Airbnb was located in a modest residential area, just a few blocks from the historic centre. It was a small but well-kept apartment with a balcony, a workable kitchen and good natural light. After the sparse comforts of our beach tent and the concrete mattresses of Hotel Isabela, it felt comparatively luxurious. The kitchen, in particular, made life easier for us as vegans. Eating out can be hit or miss, so being able to prepare our own meals was both practical and a relief.

San José del Cabo itself has an easygoing rhythm. The town dates back to the 18th century when it was established as a mission by Spanish Jesuits. It later became a vital freshwater stop for trading ships sailing the Pacific coast. Today, its historic centre has been carefully restored, with cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings, and a central plaza overlooked by the church. The atmosphere is generally calm, with none of the spring-break energy found further west along the coast.

We spent most of our time wandering around the central area on foot. The town is compact and largely flat, making it manageable without transport. On our first morning, we found a small organic grocer that sold almond milk, oats and fresh fruit, along with a few pantry basics. There was also a small plant-based café tucked down a side street, offering smoothies, wraps and decent coffee with oat milk. While fully vegan restaurants are not common here, the town does have a growing number of places with plant-based options, which we appreciated.

Thursday evenings in San José del Cabo are given over to the weekly Art Walk. We had timed our visit to catch it and were glad we did. The art district fills with people and light as galleries open late and street performers take their places. Stalls line the pavements selling handmade jewellery, textiles and paintings, while musicians provide a soundtrack of acoustic guitars and traditional tunes. Although it is clearly aimed at visitors, it does not feel overdone or overly commercial. The galleries themselves are worth visiting—some featuring established Mexican artists, others showing newer work from regional painters and photographers.

On Saturday, we walked down to the artisan market, held just outside the main square. It was a lively and colourful affair, with local craftspeople selling everything from pottery and woven baskets to natural soaps and dried herbs. We picked up a small bottle of local olive oil and a cloth bag made from recycled materials. There was a stall offering vegan tamales, which we tried, and another selling fresh coconut water. For a small town, the market was well-attended and surprisingly varied.

Evenings were quiet. We cooked simple meals in the apartment—stir-fried vegetables, pasta with tomato sauce, and once, a packet of lentils we had carried from Loreto. After dinner, we would sit on the balcony with a cup of tea and listen to the sounds of the neighbourhood—mostly dogs barking, the occasional car passing, and distant music from the plaza. San José del Cabo, for all its art and sunshine, retains a grounded, residential feel. It does not try too hard.

By the end of our stay, we felt rested and well-fed. Our time here was not filled with big excursions or dramatic scenery, but that was part of the appeal. After several weeks of travel, the slower pace and simple comforts were welcome. The town will not suit everyone—it is not especially lively or adventurous—but as a place to pause, reset, and reflect before heading home, it did the job well.